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2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • Thanks for the information. Can you give me an overview of the warranty - there seems to be different options, not sure how all this works. Thanks for your help!
  • sparkndutchsparkndutch Posts: 31
    edited September 2013
    gotojanoo,

    I'm upgrading from a 1998 Honda Civic LX, I have no leather or sunroof on it. Let me tell you the Sport trim is everything I need. I was looking at EX but I felt in love Witt the 18 in wheels, deck lip spoiler, dual exhaust, and the interior has a sporty red lighting inside in the Sport. My personal opinion is Sport is wonderful and didn't need anything else, (I'm 25, us youngsters wants all the bell and whistles but this is perfect!)

    OTD was like a few hundred dollars less, don't have the paper work on me, try to get it at least $250 lower with 1 or 2 accessories thrown in for free or 50% off.

    Since your in LA County would you be able to call the Internet manger and stop by? His name is Chris S, Galpin Honda in Van Nuys, he will work with you to get the best price, please tell him (Enrique 'Ricky' the Marine sent you) haha
  • To accord2013elx,

    Just to confirm - This is your cost for the 2014 ELX sedan?

    Sale price: 26,085
    Doc fee + Title + Reg: 448
    Tax: 6.25%

    What dealer and what state? Need some advice for Florida. Thanks!
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    That's a funny story! You're one devious dude huskerfan. I only wish you could've had an audience there to give you a round of applause. I can just picture him standing there thinking "what the bleep just happened?"

    Bill
  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    That's about $570 below invoice. Not bad at this stage of the game. Enjoy your ride. Thanks for the details.
  • Hello Sir,

    I'm not sure if its HondaCare, I just remember the 3year/36,000 basic warranty is now 7years/100,000 and the 5yr powertrain is also up 7years/100,000.

    Yes I learned first hand but I'm happy to own the Accord, just spent the last hour sitting inside my car and I figured everything out now haha. Which Accord do you have?

    Semper Fi

    Ricky
  • Way to go with Herb Chambers! Glad it worked out!
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Hey Ricky - you deserve to sit in that thing and savor that new car smell - you earned it. Our family has had a number of accords through the years but right now I've got a 2011 Civic EX. I'm considering upgrading to another Accord within the next 6 months or so. I was leaning toward the LX but now you've got me thinking about a Sport - they are really nice.

    As far as maintenance, do the regular oil changes, drain and refill the tranny fluid every 15k miles , and change the cabin filter and engine air filter every 12-15k miles and your car will take good care of you. If you like to do your own work, there are many videos on you tube to help out. The filters are especially easy to change on your own - dealers way overcharge to do it.

    Have fun with that new ride!

    Bill
  • cmartin411cmartin411 Atlanta, GAPosts: 42
    My best number so far is from a dealer in metro ATL:

    Invoice: $28,269

    Their price: $27,549 (includes destination) plus $300 doc fee = $27,849. Plus tax and title.

    $420 below invoice looks to be the basement in this area. Probably pull the trigger this weekend.
  • Thanks a lot. Same here I am in love with sports model. Did u felt lots of noise in car when you drive? I read some reviews about it. I will try that person you recommend me .Thanks again and enjoy your new Ride :)
  • I am looking at a car that has about $1900 wiorth of dealer added options, paint coating, mud flaps, trunk mat. My feeling is, I didn't ask for them so naturally, I don't want to pay for them. Is that reasonable? They seem to be so inflated anyway.
  • When calculating the price below invoice, you should not include the dealer doc fees (since they vary).

    Hence, in your case your sale price is $720 below invoice. That's a great deal for a 2014 model.
  • Was Honda Cars more expensive?
  • You have two options:

    1. Ask the dealer to find you a car that has no dealer added options.
    2. Negotiate with the dealer and ask for a reduction in price on those options BUT your best bet is to first negotiate on the price of the car (if you have not already done that).

    I do not see the dealer eating the cost for all these options, so unless it is the last car on the lot in your trim and color, you might have to go with option #2.
  • I just get a deal at $22,497 (not including $790 destination). The dealer invoice is at 24,037 so with $790 it is $750 below invoice.

    I also get a quote for the 2013 CRV EX AWD at $23,595 (not including $790 destination). The dealer invoice is at 25,379 so with $790 it is $994 below invoice.

    According to Edmund and KBB this seems like a good price. The dealer is at New Jersey and I live in Queens NY.

    Any thought???
  • blue, admittedly I'm no expert on car buying, but I do know enough that you need to include dealer doc fees to determine if it's a good deal. After all, it's cash going directly into the dealer's pocket. If a dealer offered to make the selling price $2,000 under invoice but his doc fee was $2,000, I'd walk right out the door. If I was negotiating for a car in NY where the doc fee is capped at $75, I would accept a price closer to invoice than if I was in FL where the doc fees are really high.
  • I hear where you are coming from, but when I calculate a good price I usually do not include doc fees.

    On the other hand, if you are comparing prices between dealerships, then adding the doc fees for a total OTD price is the best way to tell which dealer is offering you the best overall deal.

    Here in MA, dealers charge an average of $300 in doc fees.

    Good luck with your car search.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Yep - doesn't make sense if two dealers quote you $1k back of invoice to go with the one who charges $600 doc over the one who charges $100. So yes, the dealer doc fee should be considered as part of the price when comparing quotes. I am shocked that some places get away with fees like $699. Some locations are capped at a reasonable level.

    Bill G
  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    edited September 2013
    I agree with Blue. You cannot put Doc fees into the equation as it varies by state. The only constants here are invoice and destination. Yes, we all know Doc fees are pure profit for them but several dealers will not budge on that price. Where you get them back is to add options like mud guards, mats etc and threaten to walk if they try to charge for them. Yes they will still make money off you (as they rightfully must) but you will get some of that Doc fee back via free/cheap options. At least that is what has worked and continues to work for me.
  • Yay! Please talk to him and let him know I sent you. What noise do you mean like road and/or interior? None to both. It's a beautiful smooth ride! I'm driving all over the 405 and 818 and luving the ride! =)
  • Hey, you can’t negotiate gov’t fees that vary by state but just because a certain area has a higher doc fee does not entitle the dealer to make extra money. You need to negotiate down the selling price. NY is capped at $75. Just across the river in NJ the typical doc fee is $300-$400. People from NY buy cars in NJ and people from NJ buy cars in NY and they are doing it at the dealer who charges least for the combined selling price and doc fee. To ignore doc fees makes no sense.
  • Brian, you wrote the following the other day

    "Edmunds is dead on accurate, along with sites like Kelly blue book { kbb.com} Consumer reports. I have been using Edmunds for years now and found they are always right with pricing."

    You give terrific advice on how to buy a car but you are dead wrong regarding the accuracy of Edmunds invoice pricing. Unless you are actually checking it against manufacturer invoices, there is no way to know. I found out that they are not always accurate when researching two cars this year. Volvo charges extra for any color but white for the s60, and you have to pay $400 for red on the new Mazda 6. KBB.com shows the extra charges but Edmunds shows they are zero cost choices. The Volvo salesman told me people quoting Edmunds pricing gives him grief. Check it out.
  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    edited September 2013
    Makes no sense to you but does to most of us. A lot of dealers DO NOT budge on Doc fees. It varies by state. You cannot consider that when considering price below invoice. To not confuse each other, we must stick with constants i.e. Invoice plus destination. However, you can and MUST consider Doc fees when talking about OTD prices.
  • I understand they won't budge on doc fees, usually because of consumer protection laws require that all people pay the same. And, yes, OTD prices are the way to go when comparing prices within a state and for that reason, people are told to exclude their govt fees that are unique to their state for comparison purposes. But the dealers gross sales prices is the "sell" price of the car plus doc fees. What you are saying that it is reasonable for a Fl dealer to make a lot more on the sale of a car than a NY dealer. That's non-sense. I want to minimize what the dealer receives and you're ok with him making extra if he's in a state with higher doc fees. You don't stick with "constants", you compare dealer revenue and work to minimize the total. Most will agree with me and those that don't will be taken advantage of by salesman.
  • Just one more point. Do you agree that if a dealer is in a state with a high typical doc fee, he can sell the car for a greater discount under invoice then a dealer in a state with low doc fees but doesn't give as big a discount and still make the same profit. Well, I think they should make the same profit, preferably a small profit.
  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    No point continuing this as i will never agree to your thinking on this issue. It is silly to factor varying doc fees into national below invoice pricing. Lets get back to talking about how low we can get these cars for.
  • gmanusmcgmanusmc SoCalPosts: 436
    Nobody is advocating using other locations' doc fees for your own situation. What is being said is that you need to consider how the doc fee affects your ultimate price. So when you are soliciting your quotes, you absolutely need the doc fee info to evaluate total price. If you don't, you are not going to have a true picture of what you are paying. Even basic pricing will differ by location because of all the market factors involved.

    Bill G
  • brian125brian125 New york / S.C. myrtle beachPosts: 2,960
    edited September 2013
    Big daddy

    LET me help out my fellow New Yorker here.

    Go back and read post 30,550, and 30,558, 30,575,30,642,30,660 ,30682,30,723. if you have not already.

    In Nyc we have Plaza honda, Paragon, Hillside, Bayridge, Si honda. 9 or 10 long island honda dealerships.
    Plaza and Paragon play alot of games. Hillside wont deal on the phone or by email. The manager has told me on several sales if i come down he will meet my price..
    Bayridge is hit or miss with there pricing along with Si honda. These 2 dealerships would need to have your model to get any kind of a deal. Otherwise forget them.

    Do any of these dealerships i mentioned have your model/ color.

    Dealerships in New jersey have high doc fee's 200 to 500 dollars. Contrary to some in this forum when your buying a new car your first goal is to get your target price to buy which means already knowing each dealers doc fee charge when your making your offer.

    Your 2nd goal is to identify each dealerships or different states doc fee charge. What ever that number is you add it to your below invoice price making that charge a wash on the bill. Most honda dealers wont remove doc fee charge they may reduce it if your negotiation skills are good and the dealer wants the sale . I have tried with 100 honda dealerships not one would remove charge but several have said they will reduce fee for me.

    Your deal in N.J... 750 below invoice minus dealers doc fee charge of 300 to 400 .. So logic should tell you 350 below invoice for a almost 10 month model 2013 is not a good deal. You need to keep on negotiating. Your asking price to buy in New Jersey should be 1300 to 1400 below invoice. This takes away there high doc fee charge. You seem new to the buying game so take your time dont rush and make your best deal at the end of the month. Please read my earlier posts. Post my name in any future posting if you want my advice.

    If Hillside honda which is in Queens has your model i would go down with the intent to buy for 1000 below dealers invoice. With doc fee's only 75 in N.Y. if you purchased a 2013 for 1k below that puts your sale price at 925 below invoice plus dmv and taxes. If your reading the board you see that supply and demand has affected pricing. Your asking price to buy is very conservative and you should be able to make this deal.

    New Rochelle is a high volume dealership if they have your 2013 model make a pitch now and at the end of the month for 1200 below invoice.
    I had New Rochelle close to 1400 below invoice on a LX model last month for a poster in this forum but i cant pull the trigger on a deal if i'm not the buyer and have no clue if he really intents to buy. I proved to these guys if you negotiate at the right time you will have the best chance to getting your targeted price.

    Knowing How and When to buy is the key to getting the best possible deal with least amount of dealership B.S. and game playing

    2013 Genesis 5.0 R-spec, 2013 Accord EXL V-6, 2012 BMW x-5, 2012 ML350

  • fxguyfxguy Posts: 132
    This conversation is about below invoice quotes alone. I have repeatedly said that Doc fees come into play when you are talking OTD prices. On this forum and every other one i have been to, when you are talking invoice, it is always what the dealer is paying the manufacturer for the car PLUS destination. This is true on the main Edmunds.com site as well as truecar. Doc fees do not factor into it at that stage. Stop confusing people by telling them to add non standard Doc fees when talking about how much below invoice they are getting their car for. Man, can we get back on topic and get some more "i just bought and i paid this" posts?
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