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keep a eye on Mistersc post he is at invoice price and maybe below due to flex cash money on a 2014 model. We need to ask what dealership he is dealing with.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Doc Stamp = State Stamp tax only if taking the loan
Non Tax Fees = Estimate for DMV
Taxable Fees (estimated) = Title + tire tax
Accessories = Dealer Options Added
DTA = fee for financing
Dealer 1 Dealer 2 Dealer 3 Dealer 4 Dealer 5
Price 27868.17 28085 27950 28996.62 30,835
Doc Fee 599 689 689 598 589
Dealer 6 Dealer 7 Dealer 8
30045 27865 28118
699 699.95 599
I'm in the market for 2 such cars. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.
thx
mike
Dealer 1
Price 27868.17
Doc Fee 599
Dealer 2
Price 28085
Doc Fee 689
Dealer 3
Price 27950
Doc Fee 689
Dealer 4
Price 28996.62
Doc Fee 598
Dealer 5
Price 30,835
Doc Fee 589
Dealer 6
Price 30045
Doc Fee 699
Dealer 7
Price 27865
Doc Fee 699.95
Dealer 8
Price 28118
Doc Fee 599
Your in a good Negotiating position with 8 dealerships. Decide on a target price to buy taking in each dealerships doc fee charge. let them fight and compete for your business.. Let them chase you.......... not the other way around. Hold out til you get your target price to buy making your best deal at the END of this month. Read blue's comments on buying/ negotiations his comments will help you secure the best deal.......................Good luck
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Dealer 1
Below invoice: $400.83
Sales prices + Doc fees: $28,467.17
Dealer 2
Below invoice: $184
Sales prices + Doc fees: $28,774
Dealer 3
Below invoice: $319
Sales prices + Doc fees: $28,639
Dealer 4,5, and 6
Not good deals
Dealer 7
Below invoice: $404
Sales prices + Doc fees: $28,564.95
Dealer 8
Below invoice: $151
Sales prices + Doc fees: $28,717
Just looking at the numbers, dealer 1 seems to be in the lead with the best sales price even if you include their $599 doc fees. Dealer 7 has the second best price and is about $98 more than dealer 1, and their doc fees are higher than dealer 1.
If you could get at least $600 below invoice to cancel out the doc fees then that will be a good deal. As Brian said in his post, you should let dealers fight for you. Pit them against each other and see who will give you the lowest sales price. Wait till the last 2 days of the month to strike a deal. I would recommend using Brian's BUY TODAY offer, once you have determined a reasonable price to offer below invoice.
Do not let anyone play games with you. It appears that you are an informed buyer, so knowledge is power. Make sure the dealership has the car on the lot in your color and trim, before you head over to seal the deal. I would also recommend making sure that you have a backup dealership, in case your first choice does not work out.
Time is on your side here. You mentioned that you were in the market for 2 such cars. If you plan to buy from the same dealership, you might be able to negotiate an even better deal.
Good luck.
Doc Stamp
Non Tax Fees
Taxable Fees (estimated)
Accessories
Are all dealers charging these fees?
2013 EX-L
Long Island, NY Area
Invoice $26,399
Sale Price $25,475 (inc Dest)
No Dealer proc, prep, or finance fee (0.9% APR - 36)
+DMV $175-$275 (I think)
+NYS tax
From what I've read, looks like I should be able to get a 2013 EX-L for $25K without two much hassle? Two dealers have down down to $25,500 and have the exact model I want...one claims they have 7 of them. I was told no flex cash available, but not sure if I believe that.
Is $25K a good price if I get it..i.e. next time I talk to them state I'll close on that price? Or push for $25K them add ons like spash, molding, rubber mats, etc. Also have been following mistersc threads on the 2014.
If anyone (mistersc?) has experience with any good Long Island dealers to work with would appreciate!
Steve
At this time of the year, you should be getting at least $1500 below invoice for a 2013 Accord EX-L. I bought mine in MA nearly 3 weeks ago for $1400 below invoice plus $500 flex cash. Dealer stock is running low, so some dealers might not be prepared to budge on price.
Try and find dealerships who have your car on their lot and flex cash available. If not, you might be better off looking at a 2014 model.
Your focus should be to negotiate on the selling price of the car. It may not be the best move to also bring up dealer add-ons at this stage of the negotiating process. Do not forget to take into account dealer doc fees.
If you have not already done so, read up previous posts on this forum on how to get the best deal. You can apply some of the advice I posted in this thread #31033, http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.ef006d2/31032#MSG31032
Hi. Thanks for the quick reply...really appreciate your insight. I will act on the tips you mentioned in post 31033.
I have talked to some dealers with only 2 or 3 2013 EX-L's in stock, so understand those aren't the places that I'll get the best price. For 2014's looks like a good price on a EX-L with dest/doc would be a few hundred under invoice, at least from the posts. So will think about that also.
Will keep the forum updated.
Steve
If you want me to break down the price I paid for everything I will.
(Also, they gave me .9% financing, 36 months), I was prepared to pay cash, but the 3 year financing will only cost me 275.00 in total interest. (I put 11,000.00 down.)
Let me know if you need me to break this down for you. Holler Honda in Orlando is a well known dealership. (This is my second time buying a new accord from them.)
In addition to the matt that goes in the trunk, I paid 499.00 for laser UV window tinting. (Turned out exquisite.) They also have a 199.00 tint but it doesn't have the UV protection.
I'm LOVING this car.
Let me know if you want the line by line details of what I paid and I'll be happy to help.
If you come to Orlando to buy, let me know and I'll give you the salespersons name we used. Really liked him, great guy.
(With the mat and 500.00 tint the out the door price was under 30,000.00.
Btw, if you don't believe me on the 5 day return policy, give Holler Honda a call!
Detailed, full tank of gas, and a free coupon for my first oil change.
Could you please share or private message which dealers are giving $1500 below invoice? I am in the market to buy the same car and in the same area?
Thx,
Henry
Hi. The lowest price I got so far for an 2013 EX-L in the LI area is $25.4, which is $1000 under. But still working at it, as I want to close this week.
Have you contacted any dealers yet in the NYC/LI area? When are looking to buy?
Steve
I have a similar deal in FL on the 2014 EXL 4 cylinder black/black. This was the best deal out of 7 dealers:
Sales Price $25,872.82
Flex Cash -$500
Sales Tax 7% 1,662.58
Est Tag Transfer/State Fees 263.50
Dealer Fee 898.00
OTD Price $28,196.90
Includes: Destination, mud guards, door edge guards, body side molding, trunk tray, wheel locks and pin striping. My dealer said he couldn't technically get flex cash on the 2014 but managed to get the $500.
I paid $27,849 on a 2014 same model before tax and title.
I took a look at their website and it says it's a return/exchange policy. That's a huge difference. You may have gotten your Accord for well under invoice but I assure you won't be able to just return it. You will need to "exchange" it for another car and you will be lucky if they make that second car available to your for only MSRP. You will have absolutely no bargaining power.
You hit the nail on the head huskerfan!
A person having "Buyer's Remorse" can exchange it but they certainly won't be in a position of strength.
" OK, you can exchange it for this car...this is the price!
Sell Price 25,500
Tax 1,677.5
Registration 24
Documentation 75
Plates 345
Title 39.5
Flex -500
OTD 27,161
You may get a few more dollars off that 1399. buying at months end. Dont expect much from other dealers with limited 2013's . Your seeing that already. This may be your best possible deal on any remaining 2013's.
Good luck with your choice.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
These are the best I got from talking to 5 dealers via Internet and Phone.
2013
Sell Price 25,000 (inc dest, doc, and any finance charges)
Below invoice: $1400
Dealers on phone say potential flex, maybe $500?
2014
Sell Price 26,200 (inc dest, doc, and any finance charges)
Below invoice: $350
No Flex
Net Looks simialr to mistersc but with no add ons
Both plus NYS tax and DMV $150~$250
Based on the forum, looks like this are OK prices, but maybe can push for add ons like splash, molding, etc.
Experts...advice? Thoughts? If $1200 ~ $1500 delta, thinking of the 2014.
Thanks - James D
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
So for a 2014, is negotiating to something like $26,000 (inc. dest/dealer doc) feasible...$650 under invoice? Would like to close this week pick up over the weekend.
Before reading these forums I used to think being a few hundred over invoice was a great price, especially for a 2014 in September. But now much informed, so thank you all.
James
Auto-Sport honda in N.J. told me today he is willing to sell me at invoice price on all 2014 models. So my read on that is and what i told my friend who is looking for a 2014 model At the end of this month that price could very well turn into 200/300/ maybe more below invoice if you play your cards right.
What dealer in NY was at 350 below?
I have not sent out any emails or calls just yet on pricing but i will wait til the 30th.
A 350 below invoice price in new york with 75 doc's = a 275 below invoice price sale.
A 350 below invoice price in New jersey with 299 plus doc's = a 50 below invoice price sale.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Here's the breakdown.
MSRP: $29,060
Invoice $25860
Destination $790
Car Price: $26,100
Wheel locks: $0
Mud guards: $0
Doc fee: $80
Electronic Vehicle Registration: $26
Tax: $2,356
State fees: License/Title/Tire $287.75
Out the door: $28,840.95
In an earlier post, I noted that a dealer included Flex cash. That turned out to be in error. In the end, the dealer threw in the mud guards and locks for free. I could possibly have gotten a better deal by waiting another week, but we decided to buy the car due to a lot of life circumstances.
This was our 2nd car purchased at Honda of Hollywood. As before, the transaction was smooth and I didn't pay a dime more than we had negotiated (actually, I paid a bit less due to an error on their part, and they were willing to just eat the cost to avoid displeasing a customer!!!).
The one bit of advice. When I first called this dealership this month, the internet guys were busy, so the secretary routed me to a regular salesperson. I didn't know that. But, my experience with that salesperson wasn't so good. I was a bit surprised given my prior experience. Later, I went with my gut and called a 2nd time, asking again for the internet guy. This time, I was routed to Simon, the guy who eventually closed the deal.
Moral of the story: sometimes the secretaries don't route you to the internet/fleet salesperson. If you think it's off, sometimes, it's worth a second call.
I am new to the forum. We are looking at purchasing a 2013 Accord EX in Twin Cities MN area.
This is the first time we will buying a brand new car so need advice from the collected wisdom of everyone.
The lowest quote that I have got so far is $23,799. I have requested the OTD price from them (going through the education that OTD price is the key thing to focus on).
I have read through many of the past threads on this forum to get myself educated on some of the intricacies and things to look for but still would love to hear what everone's thoughts are on this and what additional questions I should ask or things to look out for/consider in this process.
Thanks everyone.
I'll let the more experienced posters talk strategy, but be sure to get the breakdown of the OTD price. Dealer A might have the lowest OTD, but dealer B's might be a better deal if it includes $300 worth of accessories and services for only $100 more. You may decide that those extras aren't worth it, but having the breakdown gives you more information from which to decide.
Also, in my area (Los Angeles), the dealers were starting to converge to a similar price for the 2013 vehicles. After a certain point, several stopped trying to drop in price and started to add services (e.g. free oil changes). Those services may or may not be appealing to you, but it's worth considering.
Dealer fees are simply a somewhat unethical method dealers employ to give the impression they are selling for less than they actually sell. This allows them to advertise the lower price in large print. The dealer fees are usually well hidden. This accomplishes their primary goal of getting the buyer to visit. Dealers spend much money and effort on this goal.
As you indicate, savvy buyers understand this gambit and negotiate as if the dealer fees are simply part of the price. Dealers have many costs, preparing paperwork is just one of those costs. People should ask why dealers separate these costs from all their other costs. Why don't they charge extra for the use of their office, their janitors, or the lot guys? The answer is simple, all dealer costs are includes in the price of the vehicle. Ever see Best Buy charge extra for such things. Simple cost accounting.
Dealers use the word fee because they believe that word deceives buyers into considering the fee a valid addition to the price. Reality is that fee is path of the price.
The scary thing is, even for readers of these forums, it appears dealers have been successful. Why anyone would pay a dealer hundreds is beyond understanding
Of course there is one small benefit to the buyer if they deal shows the dealer fee separate from the price. Sales tax is not computed on the dealer fee. This is good as long as the price is reduced by the fee amount.
If all buyers simply said no, probably would not be long before dealers, even those in Florida who have preferred this scam to an art form, would abandon the scam. Of course dealers are always inventive when it comes to pilfering a buyer's wallet. I doubt it would take them much time to concoct a new scam. Dealers pay their F&I staff a lot of money to increase the back end profit. Some of these F&I characters are quite good at what they do. I am sure these folks, at one of their conventions in Las Vegas, would be capable of coming up with a new scam quite easily. They always do.
Obviously your dealer was not totally honest. He could and did get the flex cash. There is no such thing as technically unable. He either could or could not. Just a small example of why a buyer should never accept any dealer statement on face value. All dealers will say almost anything to make a buyer believe they got a special deal.
Here is some useful information that will help in your car buying search. First of all, you should always find out what the invoice price of the car is. Websites such as kbb.com and truecar.com are a good resource.
Invoice price for the 2013 EX is $24,037 (including destination fee). Hence, your deal is only $238 below invoice (not counting any doc fees). That is a terrible price. Although OTD price is important, you should always make sure dealers give you a break down such as:
1. Sale price of the car including destination fee (without any incentives)
2. Dealer documentation fees
3. Title and registration fees
4. Flex cash available for 2013 models? (Honda provides $500 towards your down payment for financing through them. Not all dealers will have it, so you should always ask).
5. Dealer add-ons (accessories)
6. Incentives
7. Tax (You can calculate that yourself)
At this time of the year, you should be getting at least $1000 below invoice on the 2013 EX plus flex cash.
Read some of my previous posts on how to go about negotiating at the end of the month and closing the deal during the last days. Message #31193, #31033.
Inventory on the 2013 is getting low at some dealer lots, so if you are looking for a specific color and are unable to land a great deal, you could look into purchasing a 2014 model.
At the end of the day, you want to be an informed buyer so do not let any sales guy take advantage of you. If you call or email dealerships and they ask you to come in without naming their price, move on to the next one. You will always find a few dealerships who have good customer service and are ready to sell you a car at a good price without any BS. I have walked out of two dealerships because they were playing games.
After finding out what the market price in your area is, you should either call or email internet sales managers the last 2 days of the month and tell them you will buy the car for $XXXX below invoice today. If they ask you again to come in, put them on the spot and ask them to name their price (make sure you have all that info in writing). If you are not sure about any charges, always ask. If you cannot get any straight answers, you can ask in this forum and we will tell you whether it makes sense or not.
Good luck with you car search and let us know how things go. Do not get discouraged, there are 6 more days before the end of the month.
2013
Sell Price 25,000
Below invoice: $1400
This includes $500 flex cash
2014
Sell Price 26,650
Below invoice: $0
No Flex
which state you are from having these great prices?.
I am in Raleigh, NC, but I am willing to buy in DC (or within a similar radius) if that produces a significant savings.
Does everyone think that buying a 2013 late this month is likely to be the cheapest strategy for some time to come? (I'm likely to drive it long enough not to worry about the short-term depreciation vs. a 2014).
What do you think is a good price this month? For example, I was offered $25,733 before taxes and tags through CarWoo. How much lower can I get, do you think?
Thanks for your thoughts and suggestions.
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
Sale Price: $26650 (at invoice)
Trade in: $250 (15 year old beat up car, could have got $300 at junk yard but not worth hassle)
Sales tax: $2277.00 (8.625%)
Flex: -$500 (not sure of Honda %, but plan to pay back not too long)
DMV: ~$150
OTD: 28314.00 + four oil changes
I know I could have held out till end of month to lower the invoice or a few add ons, but needed to get this done so I can focus on work.
So this was $26,150 with flex, next best was $26,300. Spoke to about 6 dealers on LI/Queens/Brooklyn. Considering just one week ago I was starting out at a 2013 EX-L for $26,500 knowing nothing, with all the great info in this forum got a 2014 for less than that...so thank you all!
Steve
Enjoy the car!
Bill G
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
For 2014 EX how much under invoice would be a good price for end of Sep as well as end of Oct in your opinion.
2013 seems to be running out for most dealership around the St Paul/Mpls Twin cities area.
I'm looking to purchase a 2014 Accord LX CVT in New Jersey. I got a price quote of $20,375 + $790 destination charge for it, with an OTD of $23,258. Based on the research I've done, that seems a bit too good to be true! I'm therefore wondering if I'd be wasting my time going to the dealership and possibly being subjected to some bait-and-switch tactic.
Am I right to be a bit skeptical, or is this price indeed in the ballpark of what I should expect to pay?Any feedback from recent buyers in the area would be very helpful. Thanks!
I want to trade in a 2007 Buick Lucerne with 51000 miles. If I wait till Christmas to save $500 the value of the Buick might drop by then and end up wasting time by waiting.
What do you guys think?
I have been reading every message on this board for the last two months and have learned a lot. None of the messages discussed LowJack, is it good to buy it with the car? does it really save money on insurance?