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Comments
I started the ball rolling by pinging 2 dealers through their websites.....got back 2 quotes within 30 mins. Neither are crazy great but I guess not too bad....I need to get some more quotes first to see.
Capegirl-
Are you going to just pay down the loan (ie did you finance it just to get the 500 flexcash or do you want to hold the loan for 36 months at 3.19%?)
YMMV
It took me months of researching and reading various forums before I was able to strike a deal I was happy with. When I came across sales guys who did a bait and switch on me, I just walked out of their dealerships and vowed never to do business with them or recommend anyone.
At the end, it paid off for me since I was able to get the color combination I wanted at the price I wanted to pay.
For 2013 on the V6 coupe, invoice is $28,546, and the TrueCar estimate around here is about $200 less, which of course means that I'm at $500 under invoice coming out of the gate. Looking at their individual sales data, the cheapest sold was 1 at $1200 under invoice, 2 at $900 under invoice, 3 at $650 under invoice, and 1 at $350 under invoice. All the other sales data are at or above invoice.
For 2014 on the V6 coupe, invoice is $28,798, and the TrueCar estimate is $1100 above invoice. The individual data shows all sales at or above invoice.
Does that change things at all in your estimation? I know you can get the best deal by scouring across dealerships in a broader geographic area, but I'm more inclined to visit one of the two dealerships I've purchased vehicles from before (which, coincidentally, are the TrueCar dealerships) and make a take-it-or-leave-it offer. Since $1200 under invoice appears to be as low as they've gone, would you revise your bottom-line price? For what it's worth, both of them have only a few 2013 EX-V6s left on their lots, and I'd probably just go down there on the 31st.
You mentioned that you only planned to visit 1 or 2 dealerships. If that is the case, then do not be surprised if you are not able to get the best deal even if it is at the end of the month.
Here is my advice. First of all, DO NOT rely on truecar.com for the average price paid on that car in your area. I have only used truecar.com to obtain invoice prices on cars and look up any incentives.
Second of all, here are some things to think about:
1. Do you need a car right now?
2. Do dealers have the car in the color combination you want? (Visit those 2 dealerships asap to find out)
3. Do you want any accessories added to the car?
4. Have you asked for internet quotes for the 2013 and 2014 models from dealerships?
5. The difference in invoice price is only $251, and it is nearly the end of October so take into account the depreciation of the car if you decide to buy a 2013 model.
6. Do you have your own financing? If not, if you finance through Honda the rate is 0.9 % for up to 60 months on the 2013 Accord coupe.
7. Do not forget to ask dealers about Flex cash.
8. I would start by visiting/contacting dealers early next week (Monday) to find out all the info you need in order to make a deal at the end of the month.
9. Brian always says to make your best deal the last two days of the month. I do agree with that.
10. If you are going to pull the trigger on the 31st, you need to tell dealers that you will buy today for say $1500 below invoice (for a 2013 model) before any incentives to put them on the spot. If they want your business, they will give you a counter offer.
At the end of the day, you are going to have to decide whether you want to buy a 2013 or 2014 model in the color combination you want and at the price you want.
DO NOT allow any dealers to play games with you or pull a bait a switch on you. If you feel your time is being wasted at a dealership, politely inform your sales person and if they are still not attending to your needs just walk out.
*BTW, you do not have to provide answers to all those questions in this post, but you need to ask yourselves those questions (if you have not already done so).
Good luck and let us know how things go.
I can't imagine the delta between a lowest price negotiated through leverage on 10+ dealers on the 10th of a month is THAT MUCH higher than on the last day of the month? $100? I mean if you are already at a level which is close to breakeven for the dealer, if you've done well in negotiating, then I can't imagine a dealer is gonna drop $750 on that last day just to get one more unit sold.....the volume incentives can't be that progressive I wouldn't think to incentivize them to lose big money just to sell 1 car. But maybe I'm wrong
In my humble buying years.... 40............... of them i have learned not to waste my time trying to get my price til months end. you may get lucky on price before the end but majority best price, less, stress and b.s. at the end of the month. most of your e-price quotes and internet quotes are usually close in price unless your telling dealers your buying that moment.
Knowing how and when to buy is the key to getting good deal.
bringing in several dealerships into the mix
knowing your area pricing
being prepared to buy that moment
One comment to last poster on True car pricing. Do not Assume everyone is a good negotiator maybe thats why 1000 below is the best price on that site.
You take a guy like me and i'm getting that 1500 to 2000 below on a coupe. If you dont try for your target price you will never know. Hope your that guy too.
Never rely on any one else for pricing.
Dealerships that are several cars short of hitting there sales incentives by months end will sell that vehicle at a much lower price to get to his mark.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Now I say this site is the best idea ever. Luckily for me, Blue was purchasing the same car in the same neighborhood at the same time and I was able to compare notes and ended up with a very similar deal.
You can keep negotiating or say you have to take a week or two off for work/family reasons. I think there is something to the end of the month but I had to start negotiating about mid-month to be able to close the deal at the end of the month. And actually for me, since they had to find my color choice, though I purchased the car on 8/30 it didn't count in the dealer's sales for August since there was no VIN and the final purchase date was in September. They knew that and it didn't affect the negotiations.
Thanksgiving is late this year...i wonder if that will mean a slower monthend in Nov and maybe more apt to deal especially if people think if they can just last until December they will get even better deals as it's the year-end.
I dont know if you guys remember but last dec we had several buyers getting the new Accord for 1000 below invoice. It took most area's selling that low may or june. I tried in Jan and couldn't get that price. I tried in Feb came close but settled for 775 below invoice from a local dealer near me for the V-6 accord.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
We're most interested in the very best pricing we can get for the car, with buying sometime between now and the spring. Some posts suggest that $1000 below MSRP can be had, which would put us in the mid 22,000 range. There are about 4 colors we could be happy with, so color isn't a big factor.
December sounds best. If looking to close a deal at the end of December, when would you start contacting dealer internet departments by email? Now? December? Somewhere in between? It sounds like sometimes it simply takes a while to get the negotiations to get as low as they're going to go.
We're in the Twin Cities area, if that matters. Several dealers to choose from, and a few more within a 100 mile drive that we'd be willing to go to.
I bought our last car (2006 Ody) by asking for quotes online, and found it to be a very smooth process. I'm completely comfortable with it, just looking for suggestions as to how to get that price into the 22,000-range at year end (assuming that's the best time to buy).
Oh, and if the dealers ask you to call, is there a benefit to that? I dealt 100% by email last time.
Tell each dealership... You have contacted 20 dealerships and the first dealership willing to meet your price of XXX gets your business today or at months end. let the next 9 days play out and make your best deal at the end if you have not reached your targeted price before that day..
If your going to spend your hard earned money on a 2014 model make sure you get the color you want and not a 2nd or 3rd choice. You deserve it.
If you want no accessories added to your vehicle you tell dealer just that.. If dealer cant meet your request then you buy elsewhere...
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I have challenged many as to why Honda won't give them a new allocation of flex cash in November as I don't see why November will all of a sudden require LESS promotion to push cars! They all hemm and haw and say Bill clintonesque things like WE DONT KNOW WHETHER HONDA WILL CONTINUE that program. I know they always want to apply pressure but aren't I correct in assuming that if I can get the car today for X, chances are I'll be able to get the same deal on November 5 because honda will bring back the flex cash?
This year might be when honda gives up that 500 rebate. Maybe Honda has a goal of selling more Accords thru 2014 and sticking it to Toyota , Ford and Nissan.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
If you were looking to buy a 2013 model, I would recommend starting your search in early December so that you can pinpoint dealerships that have the color/combo you want with the accessories you want.
On the other hand, if you were looking to purchase a 2014 model, my best advice would be to figure out what the market price of the car is in your area come December. There is a ton of good advice in this forum.
Feel free to read some of my previous posts on how to go about negotiating a car deal. You should always be willing to walk away if you feel you are getting screwed. Some sales guys like to entice you to come into their dealership only to do a bait and switch.
I have been reading some posts on this forum and I do not understand why some would buy a car in a color/combo they did not want just because they are saving a few hundred dollars.
Good luck.
This year might be when honda gives up that 500 rebate. Maybe Honda has a goal of selling more Accords thru 2014 and sticking it to Toyota , Ford and Nissan.]]]]]
Brian - per your above message....it appears many dealers do have flexcash and on the internet side, many of them quote it that way initially without telling you specifically, so they can get the lowest OTD price and stay in the game. I assume that when you get to the dealer they "clarify" that getting that money requires you to finance the vehicle thru Honda, and they just assumed you'd be doing that. I'll just finance a small amount (one place said $5000 and the other $7500) and then can pay it off a month or so later.
The point of my post was to clarify (maybe IsellHondas knows) my SUSPICION that I shouldn't feel pressured by the dealers who are all using this flexcash angle as some sort of exploding number on Oct 31. Because of travel I won't be able to get this all done, including showing my trade in to a couple dealers, by 10/31. The dealers are all saying "WE DON'T KNOW IF HONDA WILL RE-UP THE FLEXCASH PROMO IN NOVEMBER". I have told them that even though they might be right that the flexcash "expires" Oct 31, I would personally be VERY SURPRISED if Honda didn't re-up with a similar promo in November. I mean what will have changed in the marketplace that all of the sudden means the Accords will start flying off the lots faster than in October and Honda can stop putting promo money behind them?
The best offer we have so far is 22012 for a new '13 sport (automatic).
(unfortunately, we have a trade in of a 2007 2 door civic w 81k miles which we have not notified the dealer of yet).
Have you asked and received a quote for a 2014 model?
There is some great advice in recent posts with information on how to handle a trade in while buying a new car.
Good luck.
Yeah that's what I'm betting too.....or maybe even gets better......the only thing I will lose is the Brian125 mantra of "make your best deal in the final day of the month" but in this case I can't physically get it all done by Oct 31. I think I'm pretty low on some quotes already....pretty close to that true target price....so only thing I'll miss is if there is some crazy reason why a dealer would knock another $500 off the price at month end just to get one more unit sold...not sure how often that is really the case. Also not sure I want to just fold up the process and wait another whole month
How much lower than invoice should I be looking at? I am waiting for the best price(s), then will negotiate from there.
I saw the trade in threads. Will consider the '14 models too.
Thanks for the input!
thx
Yeah but I'll bet you'll find that a lot of dealers wont do that deal. I have dealers quoting me a 2013 for the same price as a 2014, or maybe 200 or 300 dollars less is the lowest they will go.
I think they're waiting on that uninformed buyer who will a) not know how much a 2014 actually sells for and b) doesn't think about the implications for buying an "old" car
You are right on that. Supply and demand also has something to do with pricing.
I would say to even consider looking at a 2013 model, you should be getting quotes for at least $1500 below invoice plus an additional $500 Flex cash towards your down payment, if you plan to finance through Honda.
I'm coming from a 2012 Kia Forte and looking to purchase the Accord Sport.
What should my target OTD price be for the '14 Accord Sedan Sport?
I'm located in Bergen County, NJ.
Any help is much appreciated! Thank you!!
They are NOT put in place to last forever and they end as quickly as they begin.
I watched people outsmart themselves time and time again as they delayed their purchase hoping that incentives would stay in place or even get better!
I warned people here that prices would INCREASE as 2013 inventories got depleted and I knew what I was talking about.
Buying a car doesn't have to be a marathon but I suppose some people enjoy that process.
Once you figure out a high end/ low end target price you are ready to buy.. This should be your window of opportunity with pricing to have all dealerships meet or beat.
Supply and Demand and your area will effect pricing.
Flex cash,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, 2013 or 2014 model.. THIS should be your first questioned asked to every dealership you email/ call .
Probably best if you email and call to make a list of several dealerships that offer flex cash and work only with them first on price.
When you are calling or emailing dealers that wont offer flex you let them know dealers--- w,x,y, and z have flex cash so you have to be 500 lower on your price to match or beat them.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I read back about a year's worth of posts last weekend, to get ideas about what was going on, both here and on the midsize Sedan 2.0 thread. It has, after all, been 7 years since my last car purchase, and it's not something I regularly follow.
As for color? I fully agree on being happy. I won't, for example, own a black car. I don't want the light silver or the blue or the champagne. But the red, the dark gray, the hermatite (?), and the white? All good. I need to check them all in person side by side to limit my search farther. I guess my problem is more my own indecision, and not really caring all that much. There are 3-4 colors that I think are great from the outside. I need to check out all the interior colors to see if I like all of those in person. If there is one or more that I don't like, that may limit the exterior options too, or if some interior/extrerior combo looks bad to us.
Anyway, thanks. Looks like I'm aiming 500-100 below invoice.
Also, anybody know about their graduate program and when that's offered? Looks like $500 for a graduate in the last two years. My spouse got a master's degree in the past two years, so we'd qualify. I think that would be stated late in the deal. As in, here's our agreed upon price, now, give us the $500 off from Honda financing for a new grad.
OTD prices consists of Your state tax , dmv charge , and the dealerships doc fee charge.. This should be confirmed after you secure your lowest selling price. Nobody cares what your OTD price is in Chicago or New York when all taxes and doc fee's differ.. Do you understand why now?/
If i post just bought a Accord exl v-6 for 30 k OTd it tells every one in this forum none of the key things we look for....
1 Selling price
2- Any accessories added.
3 Dealerships doc fee charge
4- Any rebates or incentives applied before taxes.
This is how you tell a good deal or not and how much below invoice you bought for.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
To isellhondas.... Not trying to outsmart myself... Just am traveling and tied up and can't stop life to go mess around with the dealers in the next three days. You sound like all the dealers though..... "we never know and honda might stop promotions at any time......" (read: better buy NOW)
Excellent that consumer reports just panned the v6 Accord that I'm looking for. Happy for Honda to have to put more money behind them if others are scared
Has it dawned on you that they are actually telling you the (gasp) TRUTH?
Every month we wouldn't know until the last minute and you can't blame Honda. This is a "now" business that is ever changing.
I once learned a painful lesson when as a newbie I foolishly told a customer that I "thought" they would extend a low interest financing deal.
And they didn't. I had a very unhappy customer on my hands.
Remember just because hogan has recieved lower pricing than you does not mean you will to.
Your high and low target price to buy is your guide. You play the game right til the end of the month looking for that high target price. If you cant get that number you have to re-adjust that number for the sale or wait another month . I live in N.Y I have 5 bordering states in striking distance in a harder market to buy. I use all my means to get lowest price if necessary. People that live where there is limited dealerships and miles between them are at a disadvantage on better pricing.
Perfect Example of that dealership miles away.
I call dealership x which is 100 miles from my home. I ask that manager if he is willing to meet me on my price of xxx i will consider making the long trip out to his dealership....... if i cant get a similar deal closer to me. Dealerships that sell cars will identify you as a quick sale/ a numbers sale and will take your business if you decide to travel. This deal if goes down means that dealership will fax you over the bill of sale both party's sign and a refundable credit card deposit is left til you get to that dealership to pick up vehicle.
Finding this kind of dealership is the easiest of transactions if your buying.
You buy a vehicle one time like this you will never look at local buying the same when your area pricing is bad.
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
I am not sure you will be able to achieve that, but I would suggest requesting internet quotes from dealerships to gauge the market price in your area. $500 to $1000 below invoice is achievable.
You can read up on Honda's graduate program here: http://www.hondafinancialservices.com/finance/college-grad-program.
The requirements are as follows:
•5% minimum down payment
•Verifiable proof of employment or firm commitment from an employer with start date no more than 120 days from date of finance contract
•Graduated in past two years or will graduate in next four months
•No adverse credit history
•Master’s, bachelor’s or associate degree from U.S.-accredited college or registered nursing school
•Provide Honda dealer with credit and document requirements
I did get a test drive of 2013/14 Accord, Altima, Camry Hybrid and non-hybrid, Fusion, Passat. I have to be honest that IMO 2013/14 Altima is by far the best vehicle in family sedan segment. It is the best vehicle for the money you spend....... 2013 redesigned Altima has a lot to offer for the money compare to Accord. Altima is a leader in CVT technology to give you the best overall MPG.
After spending over a month on doing price research for Accord and Altima, I finally purchased Altima. I would have probably spent approx. $3K to $4K more to get the same equipped Accord. If you are considering Altma as an option, feel free to ask any questions and I will try to answer them. Without a doubt Accord is a great car and you will be happy to own it.
The only difference I noticed is money factors and rates on the 2013 being lower. I am surprised that Honda as a whole is not trying to blow out the complete 2013 at this point with incentives like the Pilot, Ody, etc.
At this point the 2014, whatever incentive is will get better especially money factor.
We need to confirm with Honda if it's possible to get an LX with a power seat. Due to my spouse's degenerating discs, and an unpredictable back, the ability to move the seat to comfort without having to pump by hand is a big deal to us. Yet, we don't want the sport, for the decrease in gas mileage (almost 50 mile round-trip commute). higher gas mileage is high on our list.
We have kept the car we currently have for 13+ years, so longevity is another big part of our decision. While we may not keep a future car for 13 years again, it's nice to think that it may be possible