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I was checking out prices on TrueCar, and sent out dealer quotes through that last weekend. I got a quote for $23,488 for EX through that. But I haven't responded to that yet, nor have I picked any calls from the dealers yet. I am pretty sure this quote is going to expire soon. But the new TrueCar price for EX shows up as $22,788 right now.
Once I decide which car to buy, what is the best way to go about this purchase process? I would ideally like to buy it asap, but can wait maximum till beginning of Thanksgiving week.
THEIR best price: This was a COSTCO deal
- 25,860.10
dest &hdl chrg - 790.00
invoice total 26,650.10
OTD $29,056.61- my tax is 7.5% 1998.75 + 26,650.10 = 28,648.85 so there's another $400 that he doesn't even list as to what fees he's included to come to this $29,056.61. I want to back this up so I know where I should be starting as far as a price and work from there. Nothing else but standard equipment on this vehicle no add-ons.
I thought it would be hard to justify spending the extra money on the Accord over the Camry, but I really did not like the 2013 Camry. It just wasn't comfortable for me and the visibility seemed less. But to each their own.
Good luck.
Read up on some of my previous posts on how to request internet quotes and negotiate the best deal. You need to ask the dealership for a detailed OTD (Out The Door) price listing the sales price of the car, dealer documentation fees, registration fees and any incentives.
Reach out to more dealerships for pricing. How soon are you thinking of buying a new car?
And my point back to them is sure, while you don't officially know that honda will replace the promo money with something similar, from a LOGICAL standpoint why will they just decide that November doesn't require ANY PROMO money?
Fact is I cannot make it to close the deal by the 31st so I am forced to be a gambler on the promo stuff, but my guess is there will be new promo money in November especially since CR just made a news splash and specifically DOWNGRADED the V6. Probably doesn't make everyone andtheir bbrother all of a sudden wake up and decide that they now NEED To get said Accord. Not saying it will derail people who were already decided on it, but I have trouble seeing why November 1 will all of a sudden be an on fire sales period for this model.
I mean think about it. If the industry just moved to a system where all you have to do is click once on the Internet and you immediately get the lowest possible price where the dealer is scraping out a little profit, then why would any of this other discussion still exist?
Those services are great for people who want a fair price and don't like to negotiate. It cuts the price down from inflated sticker to something that sounds better.
Given that we are seeing v6s quoted in the 27.5 to 28.1 range, your pricing for a 4 banger seems like it could get a little lower yet. Are your prices including the use of flexcash?
Hope your girlfriend will let you drive her new Accord
Bill G
By the way - who was the dealer?
2017 Accord Sport CVT Mod Steel Metallic
My wife got her Volvo on 11/30/12. In October, there was a $1,000 rebate if you had leased a competing vehicle, in November, the rebate was available if you had leased any other car, and in December, no rebate was available.
Take this advice it will help you with your Accord purchase.
Invoice price w/ dest charge on the 2014 exl model=$26,650 Google then call 5 or 10 of the closest dealerships to your house. get the name number and email of each internet manager. Once you have your info call each dealership and speak to each manager.
Find out what dealerships have flex cash.
Find out what each dealerships doc fee charge is?? high doc fee charges have to be compensated for in your asking price. If they are capped remain with the same Target price 200 below to buy.
Every dealership that has flex cash to offer on the 2014 model is where you start with negotiations.
here are your numbers to start for the sale.
You let each manager know you buy today for 200 below invoice price plus flex cash for financing vehicle.
2014 exl............ 26,450 is 200 below invoice price this includes dest charge.
Dealers with flex cash minus 500 off that number. Do not complicate this deal with the 500 graduate rebate yet work on getting 200 below invoice price plus finding who has the flex cash..
Once you reach a deal with the flex cash then tell dealership you are a graduate. Dealer must then minus another 500 off that total. Dmv, doc fee, and taxes are added onto this number for your OTD price. You should be able to make your phone calls and seal a similar deal like this within a hour of your phone calls. If no dealers in your area are giving flex cash stick to your target price of 200 below invoice price for the sale that moment .... If you feel your target price of 200 is to high then by all means lower it. At 200 below invoice plus incentives would be a really good deal and alot of dealers will want to make this deal with you.
If you find flex, get your target price, and graduate rebate here is what your looking at price wise.
EXL model...................26,450......200 below invoice price
minus.........................500..........flex cash
minus ........................500..........Graduate rebate
Total........................25,450 plus dmv, taxes and doc fee
23 Telluride SX-P X-Line, 23 Camry XSE
Thank you so much this is exactly what I was looking for. I feel confident I can negotiate now with a price to target. I will let you know how I do. I feel like I'm going into combat with the enemy and I shouldn't feel that way, but really they never tell the truth.
And yes, I hope she lets me drive it! I just took her 2011 with me to AZ today since it's a lease and not due to be returned for another 2 weeks. At least now she can drive her new 2014 instead of my 07 Tundra while I'm gone!
Be careful because some dealers have a footnote that says Internet price includes ALL available honda incentives.... And when you get there they'll say oh sorry you aren't a military person or a college graduate so those don't apply and therefore the pricing is higher.
However several dealers have confirmed that the promo program will switch on November 4th. A few who are now out of flex cash have guessed that they will have something to offer on the 4th.
That's why when requesting online price quotes, you should always ask dealers to list the price of the car without any incentives. That's what I did when I was car shopping more than 2 months ago.
As far as accessories go, wheel locks are the only accessories you should pay for. Some dealers might throw it in at no extra cost.
With the Accord it appears the major knock is from the radio which had lots of problems early on. I can handle that as its not engine, trans , suspension etc.
Apparently some dealers order these options from the factory so they can get them printed on the window sticker... Which makes it seem more "necessary" to the customer to take them
Sorry, I was once a big time fan or CR and I still subscribe but I no longer pay much attention to their subjective opinions. I doubt many sales will be lost by would be buyers anyway. I suppose there will be some.
A question....WHY do you have to have a V-6? Yes, they are a bit smoother and a bit more powerful but the 4 cyls are more than up to the task.
The 4's have tons of power, get better mileage and cost less to maintain.
I know some people think they "need" a V-6 but unless I lived where I had to pass people on nasty two lane highways or maybe in a high altitude area of the country, I just don'[t see any benefits at all. Just my opinion.
Promotions come and go. The danger being that people EXPECT them to always be there and they can and do end suddenly. We never knew until the next month started.
If you don't want anything extra, just put a deposit on a car that is in transit and ask that no accessories be installed.
It includes 500 flex cash. State is florida(North east) which has high dealer documentation fees.
28,000 is a good price at this time ?
Listing the OTD price does not help anyone figure out whether you got a good deal.
Here is the info that will help:
1. Sale price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any dealer add-ons or incentives)
2. Dealer documentation fees
3. Registration fee
4. Cost of all the dealer add-ons
5. Incentives (You mentioned $500 Flex cash)
The invoice price for a 2014 EX-L I4 without navigation is $26,650 (including destination fee). So if you paid below invoice for just the car, then you did well.
Sorry, I was once a big time fan or CR and I still subscribe but I no longer pay much attention to their subjective opinions. I doubt many sales will be lost by would be buyers anyway. I suppose there will be some.
A question....WHY do you have to have a V-6? Yes, they are a bit smoother and a bit more powerful but the 4 cyls are more than up to the task.
The 4's have tons of power, get better mileage and cost less to maintain.
I know some people think they "need" a V-6 but unless I lived where I had to pass people on nasty two lane highways or maybe in a high altitude area of the country, I just don'[t see any benefits at all. Just my opinion.
Promotions come and go. The danger being that people EXPECT them to always be there and they can and do end suddenly. We never knew until the next month started.]]
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Listen - CR just does the surveying and the PEOPLE fill them out. I am a CR subscriber and I fill it out every year on each car. This is how they GET that reliability data that shows the little red or black dots to compare between cars. Now to be fair, it appears the RADIO in the V6s and upper end models is what killed it. Lots of problems....lots of people going back to the dealer to fix....lots of people when filling out the survey report that....
Is it inaccurate? Yes and No. A bit silly too, yes. CR should have a big asterisk that says it was the RADIO that had much lower than average "reliability". But instead they just had a big press release which among other things said "we can no longer recommend the Accord V6 as it's reliability is below average" Not a real mention with some digging as to WHAT was the problem.
As for the V6....I drove them back to back and I gotta tell you sure, the I4 is fine, but at idle it is much more of a clattering steam engine, and under acceleration the I4 and CVT are definitely noticeable as they push and pull the car along. The V6 is like smooth power and refinement...more like BMW and Audi. So do I NEED it? I dunno, what does anyone NEED? Why does anyone even NEED an I4 Accord, when they could also get a used Fit to take them to work just the same? And the V6 has more than "a bit" more power...something like 50% more! But to each his own, and that is what is great about our society is that each person can get the model they like best
My only point was, for most people, the 4 cyl is more than up for the task. I know I wouldn't pay for a V-6.
As far as NEEDS go, I watched time and time again as people who were on a tight budget seemed to always NEED a sunroof, leather, rear wings etc.
The radio thing is a joke especially since they are under warranty.
As far as those little red and black dots, using an example, I think it was 1996 Accords that got a red dot for brakes and in 1997, the dot was half black.
Nothing was changed between those two years so go figure?
I have owned cars that make a V-6 Accord look like a motor scooter as far as power go's.
But, as someone else said if you REALLY feel you need a V-6 then that's what you should buy!
I never have the slightest problem merging into traffic or maneuvering through traffic in our 4 cyl CRVS.
But...that's me.
It's not that the I4 doesn't have power and can't get up and go....it's just much more animated when doing so. You can hear and feel the engine winding up, the CVT is popping the revs all over the place, and the car even had sort of a mild "lurching" as it accelerated. The V6 is just smooth and more stately....you apply gas, and the car accelerates more quietly and without all the hysterics. I'm being a bit hyperbolic on the I4 by the way...it's not that bad, and for just putt putting around town it will do a fine job. And at idle the 4 banger sounded much more rough to me than the V6 did. Almost a bit of diesel "clatter" to it.
I totally agree if an LX or EX is good enough, then I wouldn't pay up for a V6. But if you were gonna go EXL I4 anyway, it's really not that much more to get EXL V6.
Better to pay a bit more than to "settle" on something you aren't 100% happy with.
For raw power, I do miss my GTO and my Impala SS 409.
I DON'T miss getting 7 MPG on premium!
And, I REALLY don't miss the tickets I got on a monthly basis.
@capegirl5: I personally feel that it is an injustice to put 2013 Altima in the same boat as Maxima 2004. 2013/14 Altima models are redesigned to mainly target Camry and Accord family sedan segment. I am not saying Accord is bad in any case, because I personally own one and I am satisfied. I also considered Altima when I was in market to buy a vehicle in 2007, but it did not justify the investment due to their safety and overall reliability ratings at that time. All those things are changed since then, and Consumer Report would agree with it as well. I too have a back and neck problem for past 10 years and seat comfort was one of my first criteria as well. I though have to agree that I don't have previous Altima ownership experience, but according to my opinion I could not justify to pay $3k to $4k more to buy similarly equipped Accord. Accord has given me so much of trouble with their Battery life (using 3rd battery in 6 years of ownership) and my brother bought Accord in 2008 after my recommendation at that time, and he also has mechanical issues with its suspension in his 2008 Accord. Even though with these issues in Accord, I still like it. But buying another Accord for a higher price upfront than Nissan....... I was not convinced.
Good luck with your new purchase!
isellhondas - there is no reason for the V6 other than some people want the "extra punch" or "think" that they don't want a 4cyl car. Modern technology such as direct injection, CVTs, & 8 speed automatics have vastly improved the acceleration "feel" of modern 4cyl. Honda 4cyl engines are as good as they come as far as I'm concerned.
My current 2001 Honda Prelude Type SH (150K miles) will get smoked by any run of the mill V6 powered family sedan from a stop light, but on the highway has no trouble cruising at speeds much higher than those posted in NY & CT.
The last speeding ticket I received was while driving my former (4cyl) 2010 Acura TSX. I was clocked going 81 in a 55. I was going faster than that before I saw the state trooper.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
The MSRP for the Car was: 26,220 (including destination fee)
So I went to the Honda dealership to check out the new Honda 2014 EX Accord and got a chance to discuss some pricing with the dealer. from another dealership I was quoted 24,700 (not including tax, etc.). Since it was the end of the month this dealership came at me with this offer, and please tell me what you think!:
Dealer offer Price: 24,000 (Not including tax,etc.)
- Lifetime engine warranty
and This deal is not including these incentives which I qualify for
-Recent Graduate 500$
-Flex Cash 500$
The Destination fee is: 790$
Thanks for any advice.
Let me try and break down the pricing on 2013 and 2014 models for the Accord EX.
The MSRP for the 2013 Accord EX CVT is $26,195 (including destination fee). Invoice price is $24,037 (including destination fee). If you are considering buying a 2013 model, the price needs to be at least $1500 below invoice before any incentives for it to be a decent deal. Given the supply and demand of the 2013 models, I am yet to see or hear anyone get $2000 below invoice before any incentives. That would be a great deal.
With regards to the 2014 model, the MSRP is $26,470 (including destination fee). Its invoice price is $24,288 (about $251 more than the 2013 model). Hence, the dealer price of $24,000 you were quoted is not such a great deal if it includes the destination fee. If that price does not include the destination fee, I would recommend walking away from this offer since you would be paying more than $500 above invoice price.
With regards to the lifetime engine warranty being offered, you need to ask the dealer whether it is free or if there is a fee associated with it (make sure to ask about any fine print). If you do not receive an answer that makes sense, move on to the next dealer. Honda offers a 3 year/36,000 mile new vehicle limited warranty. You can read more about Honda's warranty here: http://automobiles.honda.com/accord-sedan/warranty.aspx.
Before proceeding with your car search, you need to ask yourself these questions:
1. How soon do you want to buy a car? Do you need one asap?
2. Do you care about the exterior and interior color?
3. Are you planning to finance through Honda?
4. Have you reached out to more dealerships for internet quotes?
5. Do you plan to trade in a car?
When requesting internet quotes from dealers, here is the info you should be requesting:
1. Sale price of the car including the destination fee (but not including any dealer add-ons or incentives)
2. Dealer documentation fees
3. Registration fee
4. Cost of any dealer add-ons (if you plan to purchase accessories)
5. Incentives (You mentioned $500 recent grad and $500 flex cash)
Make sure when dealers quote you the sale price of the car it includes the destination fee BUT does not include any incentives. If you are not sure, make sure to ask them to clarify. It will help you determine whether you are getting a good deal. If you plan to buy a 2014 model, $500 to $1000 below invoice is a good deal at this time of the year.
Read up on some of my previous posts for more info. Good luck and let us know how things go.
As far as tickets, how about NINE in one year including three in the same week. Two of those three were on the same day by the same cop.
Nothing I'm proud of. Funny now but not then and, no, somehow, my Ins. Co. never found out.
No tickets now since I was about 25. had to finally grow up (?)
I would place zero value on that "lifetime" engine warranty. Read the fine print and the exclusions.
You also have to follow a strict maintenance program and have ALL of your services done at that store.
Nothing is ever "free".
I used to tell my customers to replace the battery after five years. They usually last at least that long. My next door neighbor made it to TEN years on the 1996 Accord I sold them.
I figure it's best to replace the battery on MY terms than to get stranded somewhere or have my wife get stranded.
Five years is enough!
vehicle running on 3rd battery is acceptable?
I know you sell your Hondas, so as a seller I am sure as a seller it's difficult to admit any issues with a product you sell but as a buyer any bad part sold by the manufacturer factors into overall quality issue of a product. Honda recently compensated me for the battery issue I experienced with my Accord. If a manufacture does not take a responsibility of any third party parts installed on their product, then why should they install in the first place?
I think you took my post in a wrong sense My goal was to suggest Altima to OP as one of the buying option to consider while searching for a new sedan vehicle, and I shared my personal experience with Accord.
Cheers!
No, two dead batteries in 6 years isn't acceptable UNLESS you live in an extreme climate. In Phoenix or Fairbanks, the extreme heat is murder on ANY car battery.
When I worked managing a huge Auto Center for Sears years ago, the batteries we sold usually outlasted the warranty period but not always.
That is why we warranteed them, same as a car manufacturer will.
Again, not the car's fault and that's what I thought you were trying to imply.
Your experience I have to say was unusual unless you live in an extreme climate where three years will destroy the best of batteries.
That's true and sometimes (my neighbor) they can last ten.
Odysseys have a lot of electrical demands and depending on climate 3-4 years can do them in.
Actually I believe there are only three battery manufactures in the US anymore. they all private brand so there is a good chance that that Costco battery came out of the same factory that the Honda one did.
1) Tell all of them that there are a number of different dealers who all seem to want this business, and while I appreciate everyone's time thus far, I can't buy a car from each of them. So to BE FAIR I would like a BEST AND FINAL number from each dealer, and I will decide from there. There will be no more "callbacks" and I will buy a car from the winner.
2) Call one at a time and throw out a number that is BELOW the lowest current quote (but how much??) and tell them "I have 8 dealers on my list.....you are the first (can tell each of them that)....I will give you a credit card for the deposit right now if you agree to $XYZ price, but I need to know in [5] minutes otherwise I will call the next guy down the list.
1 or 2? Or something different. On #1 you know you still have some "out" as you WILL get a lowest number by definition. But it might not be THE lowest number if all the dealers don't truly give you a lowest number because they assume you are still in bidding mode regardless of what you promise. And they don't want to get into round after round of this junk.
The nice thing about 2 is it puts a real live credit card hunk of meat right in front of the tiger. The tiger has to choose whether he just wants to eat the steak or if he doesn't, the steak will be removed from his plate in 5 minutes..... It COULD be the best way to really stretch them on price. BUT, the issue I see is you have to decide on a number that means you're not leaving too much on the table, but if you throw out an offer too low, you will have the embarrassing prospect of making it all the way through your list and have all NOs. Then you call back the dealer sheepishly and say "well I guess nobody wanted to sell at that price....so how about...." That could be weird.
Any other ideas? How about a hybrid (as I think out loud...) "Ok Mr Dealer, I have a list of 8 people who all want to sell me the car. I will buy it for [$XYZ right now] and if you can hit that I will give you my credit card. If you can't hit that, then please give me your best and final offer, but know that you are the first one I'm calling and I will make the same offer to 7 other dealers. I'm being nice by giving you the first shot, but if you choose to give me a higher bid then of course that still might work, but there will be no "callbacks" and I will decide on the lowest price (unless of course one of the other 7 dealers chooses to accept my offer now. I need to know in [5? 10?] minutes."
I will let Brian and other veterans chime in.