2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

deoding · December 2013

Hi aaloke83,

I am also looking to buy a EX around Hartford CT. Do you mind to share the info? Thanks

deo

hiker10 · December 2013

I know my friend used it as leverage for a better lease because her car was in good condition with no accidents and under the mileage allowed for the lease. If a dealer doesn't have to pay tax on the purchase of the lease, they can make money from the sale. I wouldn't worry about all that right now. You can go to the Honda site and look at the leases they advertise and the small print on the bottom where they mention residual value for each car.
Lease payments are also based on your credit history. It's like with car insurance where you have to pay more if you are a guy between a certain age.
Paying money upfront can reduce your monthly payments, but that was good advice you were given on this board not to do it next time. You do have to service your car as part of the lease, but I have learned to do the Honda recommended service and not the Dealer recommended service because of the cost difference. I do go to a Dealer for service because they have certified Honda mechanics.
You can't believe everything on the internet, but I know the two posts I mentioned on Yelp were true as I know that dealership. The two guys wrote their reviews because they felt like you did. One guy said the dealership is evil!
I am not an expert so I don't know how much less you could have paid for the car, but I would say the worst headache would be purchasing a lemon. Just drive safe, take care of your car, enjoy it, and don't beat yourself up over a few dollars. My lease it coming due so I have been reading about leases. I will try to post this article again as it didn't work the first time and see if you can copy and paste it. You can also just google what I learned the hard way about leasing a car, NY Times. http://bucks.blogs.nytimes.com/2013/01/08/what-i-learned-the-hard-way-about-leas- ing-a-car/?_r=0 Best Regards, Debbie

brian125 · December 2013

Hiker

Your leasing post in the NY Times is a must read for all buyers. Whether your leasing or buying finding that lowest price is the most important factor.. After you secure a acceptable price you need to know how to close the deal. little add on's and extra fee's add up to make a expensive purchase. which makes a good deal turn into a bad deal. Thousands of people make mistakes like this everyday by not knowing the game..

hogan773 · December 2013

REMEMBER my price was 26,999 AFTER the 500 flex cash. So the way I assume the dealer is looking at it, he sold the car for 27,499, and Honda Finance kicked in the extra 500 bucks toward my down payment. By the way, at that price they didn't claim they were losing or making any money. The other dealer (the first one who welched on me) claimed they were LOSING money at that price, but they knowingly are willing to lose a little money with the hope that they develop a "relationship" that will translate to service business etc. I have my doubts, and not sure why I should believe anything this lying dealer tells me. From an overall standpoint I highly doubt that a dealer is REALLY incurring an economic loss on any car sale once you factor in the back-room incentives and monthly blah blah etc. Maybe the salesman doesn't even know what these numbers are, but I highly doubt a dealer willingly parts with a unit of inventory and actually pays me to take it from him.

That said, I'd think at 27,499 they probably are indeed making a little profit on the sale. As to why Honda Finance kicks in 500 bucks when so many people are probably just going to borrow the minimum and pay down the loan in a month or two...I don't know. But maybe there aren't really that many people like me (or us) on this board, and maybe that 500 incentive really does "buy" people to finance through Honda versus their local bank, and in the long run they make up for it through originating all those loans. They're gonna lose money on my loan since I only borrowed 7500 and I will pay it off in the first month.

bluemkn57cars · December 2013

From the New York Times article: Now, here is where it gets tricky. Directly under the line for capitalized cost is the capitalized cost reduction, which the leasing agreement describes as cash down and the value of any trade-in vehicle. In a no-money-down lease like mine, that line should read $0.

So why was mine $1,993? This was a number we had never negotiated or even discussed. When I asked Khaleds brother Amir, who was handling the paperwork, he said that included the destination charge and other fees. Of course, I should have stopped everything right there, but I had already been at the dealership for more than an hour, and he sounded so reasonable and matter-of-fact about it that I just let it slide. Another big mistake.

I spent an hour each at two Honda dealerships when I was looking to purchase my new car. I walked out after I felt the staff was playing games with me, after we had already agreed on a deal via email.

At the end of the day, it is your money and your signature on that contract. Once you sign the papers, there is no turning back. So if something does not seem right, you can always walk out of a dealership. That's part of negotiation 101.

glastonbury · December 2013

All, I purchased a Red EX-L accord sedan (4cyl) 2014, no navigation, for $26,000 flat (I mean flat - including that $795 delivery fee). Honestly, I could not negotiate down any lower in the Connecticut market. I actually walked out (nicely) when the dealer would not budge lower that $26,000; however, I ended up swallowing my bargaining pride and accepting at $26,000. One tip I'll pass along. If you find a car you like, consider negotiating by accepting offers from the dealer - just tell them I need you lowest and best offer to sign now. If you don't like the number, just get up, and say thank you that won't work at this time and leave (don't give any more info). Never. Never. Never counter or start off giving the dealer a number (bad business law and just bad negotiationg imho). Ok, here is my point. I really wanted the car (it had literally under 3 miles on it and it was the color I wanted) and the price seemed really good. I still walked out. However, 24 hours later I ended up closing as much of the deal by email/phone as if I was in the dealership. In this day and age, don't fret about extra trips to close the transaction. Once you get their best price and you act within a few days, you can secure the vehicle by calls/email.

Oh, and the paradox of the Honda Accord ---- it's such a beautiful car, it is quite simply an amazing ride; however, at the same time it is a "toaster" - there are so many of them, you will always be able to find another.

Good luck!

gmanusmc · December 2013

Congrats on your new Accord - 650 below invoice is not that bad, especially if you love the car - enjoy it! And you are right - first rule of negotiation - he who speaks first - loses. I like to solicit dealers' best quotes and work from there comparing them to what people are reporting on sites like this and then getting some competition going - this usually results in a great deal.

Bill G

liaison · December 2013

When you say $26,000 flat does that include admin fees and taxes or is that your out the door price?

1sebringnow · December 2013

I live in Connecticut - but bought in DC - saving $2000 two years ago. You could have went into MA and I bet could have saved yourself at least $1000. There are a number of Mass Dealerships which give way better deals than CT. When I shopped CT every dealer told me that they couldn't match the deals in other areas because they don't have the same regional incentive structure. So - my incentive was to save money and I did. Just like gas prices and things we pay for here which are way overpriced - so are the cars. If I could buy it and save it was a great thing. I went to Maryland and bought my Honda - they did all the paperwork and I left with a heavier wallet.

You did buy a great car but I am really tired of the reasons we are overcharged for the same things. When filling out the FAFSA for colleges us Connecticut types don't get credit for living in a high tax burdened state - but we still get to pay high taxes and pay $2000 more for the privilege of buying a new Honda in Connecticut. I will never buy a new Honda in CT again.

bluemkn57cars · December 2013

Congratulations on your purchase.

You did not say whether there was any flex cash offered or available.

bluemkn57cars · December 2013

I live in MA. I bought a 2013 Honda Accord EX-L 3 months ago. At the time, most dealerships were quoting about $800 - $1000 below invoice. Even the high volume dealers such as Herb Chambers and Boch Honda were over priced. Most did not have any flex cash available. I was able to negotiate a sweet deal of $1400 below invoice plus $500 flex cash from Honda Cars of Boston. I dealt directly with the internet manager.

Some forum contributors in the DC area were posting better deals but only a few hundred dollars less. It was not worth my time, and me driving back and adding all these miles on my new car.

To each their own.

jim1462 · December 2013

I was told by a Honda dealer that Hond Finance charges a $75 fee if you pay off your loan before 6 months. the $500 flex cash is not affected. Is this correct

brian125 · December 2013

That is a dealer Lie.

deoding · December 2013

CT market is known tough, so I was amazed when I saw aaloke83's EX-L deal. Actually I just bought my EX from the same dealer for $23,200 + $399 fee + $178 Reg + Tax. Not as good as his EX-L at $24,900, but not too bad. Actually the Maryland top dealer is offering me $23,000, maybe little lower if I really pushed hard, but my dealer is close by, thus save me time to drive to MD.

At the end, was tricked for the $199 VIN Etch fee. They told me it was already etched on the glass, so can not be removed. I found out later it can be waived by CT law, but too late. One good thing is that dealer help me find 1.34% via Well Fargo for 60mo, a little lower than what Honda is offering.

Again, if I had waited one more day, I should have got better deal by reference to aaloke83's file.

Thanks aaloke83 and everyone here sharing the information. I love my EX so far, driving 29mpg and 27mpg on the 16miles winding back road to work.

adamr1 · December 2013

Interesting post Brian, I haven't been on the forums for a while. My perspective as I have told others who I have helped is that it is all a game. The dealer is out to make as much of a profit as possible...period. I am in NJ and don't recall ever seeing a Honda dealership here going out of business. So they must be doing well.

I actually enjoy the game of car buying. In some ways I wish it wasn't a game, but if it wasn't then we would all be paying the same price. In today's game, some people pay much higher, and I pay much lower. So the law of averages comes in and the dealer still makes a profit. I have no interest in whether a dealer should make a profit, or what it costs them to be in business, blah blah blah. I want a car and I want to pay the least amount possible for it.

That is the same for most people. It just happens that the car buying industry has created this complex game.

Did anyone stop to think about that black friday item they bought, thinking that it was sold at or below cost, and felt bad for the store selling it? No, everyone wants to pay the least amount for an item. But with most other things there isn't much negotiating room. Cars are the exception. So I try not to take it personally on the games dealers play.

I have bought 6 honda over the years, and I used 6 different dealers. Each time the game is played the buyer learns more and can get better at it. I am still made at the stupid window etching fee they stuck in my finance papers a while back. That won't happen again!

adamr1 · December 2013

Of course the dealers will say that. If they told the truth, then everyone would want to buy at true cost. The more smoke they throw up, the more they confuse the average person. People on this forum are not the average car buyer. So of course you say you know it is all BS. But I don't believe most people do.

A dealer is out to sell a car with a profit. They rarely if ever lose money on a sale, but there are times they come close to breaking even. Many dealers don't want to sell a car without a profit You just have to find the dealer who is willing to sell the car near the cost.

The current Accord I am driving I found the same stories when buying. I found that dealer willing to sell the car near cost. All the other dealers said there is no way he will produce the car at that price. They were wrong, and I bought the car. But it isn't always easy to find that dealer. That is where the work comes in to find them.

brian125 · December 2013

Yes interesting and true. Isn't it nice to know you help someone save hundreds if not over 1k for a new car purchase.

Knowing how and when to buy. Having a target price, getting many dealerships involved, cutting out the middle man, helps when you play the game right. This will result in you making the best deal possible in your area..

When you guys learn how to get the internet managers to fax you the buyers order for the sale that day makes .............. alot of that extra add on nonsense stop. Not all dealers will do a fax order buy. Especially dishonest dealerships they want you in that showroom.. The Dealerships that do makes this process a wonderful buying experience. All out of state purchase should be done this way.

You read from time to time in these forums how somebody did a fax buy and picked up vehicle a few days later. Read the details of the sale usually very smooth sale and pick up. these dealerships usually sell cars and tend to be more on the honest side of pricing.

ken117 · December 2013

Not true. The dealer F&I manager will likely lose any dealer reserve he may have attained via the financing if you pay the loan off within six months. Just one more example of why consumers should never rely on statements from anyone at a dealership.

ken117 · December 2013

While I do not always agree with Isell, he is correct. Buying a new vehicle is truly not difficult nor complex. There are three main areas: price, trade, and financing. All these areas should be thoroughly researched and a purchase plan identified before engaging in negotiations with a dealer.

If your numbers are realistic, a dealer willing to sell can almost always be found. Worrying about an extra couple of hundred dollars is silly.

And in all cases, the buyer is not negotiating with the sales person. Rather the negotiation is with the sales manager.

gmanusmc · December 2013

Wow - someone who actually talks a little common sense.

Good points ken

Bill G

Kirstie_H · December 2013

If you are a parent of young children (at least one under 12 years old) who owns a 2013-14 Honda Accord, a reporter would like for you to fill out a survey, due by December 13, 2013, for use in a print publication. Please email PR@edmunds.com no later than Wednesday, December 11, for a copy of the survey.

aaloke83 · December 2013

Thank you deoding. Reading through the forums helped me learn the various incentives and negotiating tactics available & probably helped me negotiate a good deal. Thank God I didnt believe Truecar!

If anyone else in and around CT is looking for a good deal on 2014 EX-L 4cyl sedan CVT, let me know & I can provide necessary details.

bethpa · December 2013

The Wall Street Journal had an article saying Honda Nov sales were off so they are bringing a December dealer incentive for $3000 per car for any deal who increases their Dec 2013 over Dec 2012 sales. It is capped at $60,000 or 20 cars.

I guess the trick is to come in at the end of the month and see which dealers are in need of some sales. Assuming you leave some for the dealer any new car sold over their Dec 2012 numbers have higher profit for the dealer. I'm not sure if this would also include Flex cash.

I'd target invoice plus $2500 to start and see what happens. It all depends on the actual dealer and their ability to beat last December's sales. And this is on all Honda cars from what the article stated. The actual terms might be different than what was reported. I hope this helps someone who is shopping.

neil_h · December 2013

"I'd target invoice plus $2500...."

Not sure if I understand this correctly....I am in Atlanta and looking to purchase a 2014 EX-L CVT. Since the invoice price is $26,650 should I be looking for the dealer to sell the car for $24,150 (or did I misunderstand the $2500 number).

If anyone in Atlanta has purchased the above model recently and can provided specific recommendations, I would appreciate it. Thanks for all the useful posts in the forum.

gmanusmc · December 2013

Bethpa - are you able to post a link?

Thanks, Bill G

bethpa · December 2013

Here is the link to the WSJ article. I am not sure if it will be available to non-subscribers.

http://online.wsj.com/news/articles/SB10001424052702303722104579239983004270504

http://www.autonews.com/article/20131205/RETAIL/131209903/honda-offers-dealers-c- ash-if-december-sales-top-2012-levels#axzz2miNbkCdw

I have no idea what a dealer will do with this incentive but I think it completely depends on the individual dealer's situation. Maybe they give up some of the $3000 to help sell the car. Read the article and it may give everyone some additional information when negotiating for a Honda this month.

gmanusmc · December 2013

Thanks - you're right - only subscribers can see the whole article but you can see enough to get the gist - might be some great deals to be had this month.

Bill

Wow - just read that second article you linked - this sounds promising indeed.

glastonbury · December 2013

Oh, sure, the 26,000 flat was just the car price. The additional fees were that silly $399 dealer conveyance fee (even consumer reports could not get that negotiated down....they test their cars in Connecticut). The only other fee was the doc fees for registration, which since I transferred plates, was a about 110. I didn't include the 6.35 per cent Connecticut sales tax as it won't be apples to apples for most folks. Oh, I didn't complain about the Goodyear assurances I got v. The michelins...however, if it means someting to you, negotiate on the tires too.

Btw, getting rusted plates off an old car is one of those things in life like a prostrate exam. I should be smart and try to get a stainless steel screw set, if they are even sold.

Good luck to all. I'm happy to be back in a Honda.

glastonbury · December 2013

Sure, no I didn't get offered any flex cash (student, etc).

glastonbury · December 2013

Yeah, the person who said Connecticut is tough for car buying are right. When I bought my wife's Murano in 2005 none of the dealers would budge within 500 of the price I secured from CarsDirect. I actually had the car delivers to my door from a dealership in New Jersey. (Probably not the best idea).

We are Honda folks, generally smart, so I chalk it up to anything n life...you do the work, negotiate well, you will likely do better than average. When I was making 35k a year, 20 years ago, I spent close to 3 weeks negotiating over 300 dollars. I walked out over a snuck in 35 fee for the key lug nuts. Dealers know that many folks are not as price sensitive ...so, no how much quant work you do, it comes down to what the market will bears ....and you won't know that exact amout at a specific time, until you walk out.

Btw, I did all the internet prework...all the sites, none of them really helped me get the best price (in fact the broker sites would have targeted me 200-300 more). I used to like CarsDirect...my guess is this is where the "convenience buyers" are going...and paying more.

brian125 · December 2013

You are so right. Some buyers like yourself 20 years ago needed every penny in there pocket while some buyers just like the thrill of banging out the best buck. Educating your self with dealerships/ pricing gives you the leverage.

Ive been saying this for many years in all the forums I post ..... December is like the............. Superbowl................. of car buying. The key to finding your best deal will be made at the end of Dec. Honda motor's new sales incentive is just one example of why we wait til month end to buy.

Honda is not the only car company looking to deal. Read up on Ford, Hyundai, Gm and the list goes on . Be patient for the honda Accord.

You will get your target price this month. What you need to figure out is.. If my Nov, target price for a 2014 Accord was 1000 below dealers invoice plus flex cash of 500 what should i be shooting for price wise????

Your small dealerships maybe even a local honda dealership that dont sell many vehicles would be more inclined to sell your accord cheaper today. Unless your getting your target price today you wait til the end of the month making your lowest deal. Play the game you have the leverage this month. never tip your hand unless you hit your target price or the month is ending...

Figure out a new Target price. Make a list of all dealerships offering the 500 flex cash. Call every dealerships internet manager and start the negotiating process buying close to the the end of the month unless you hit your target price. I wish i was buying a accord this month..

Make sure you let each dealership know about there new Dec dealership incentive when they play stupid about pricing.

BMW just announced a 2000 dollars holiday bonus this month.

You guys will also find monster deals this month on

Nissan Altima
Ford fusion
Toyota Camry
Sonata's
VW- Jetta

Have fun and good luck to all

bluemkn57cars · December 2013

Flex cash ($500) is offered by Honda when you finance through them. It does not matter whether you are a student or not.

I hope you are enjoying your new car

brian125 · December 2013

BethPa

I usually post when articles like this are in papers and online. Good job downloading it in this forum.
To answer your question about pricing No dealership will offer $ 3000 off invoice unless its that last days of Dec or close to the incentive close date of jan,2. 2014 and that sale will make there incentive number.

Pricing will loosen up so they can sell more vehicles.

There are a couple of posters here in NY looking to buy this month.

1k plus flex is do able... maybe a few hundred less off for Dec.

Last year in dec,2012 we had the same situation a tuff market in most area's. There were a few posters who claimed they made 1000 below invoice deals.

This Dec it should be easier with honda willingness to loosen pricing and sell more of there 1 year old new generation Accords.

gmanusmc · December 2013

So Brian - you don't think they'd at least let loose of maybe half or more of that incentive if they hit the magic number by Christmas to end the year with a bang?
It sounds like some of the volume sellers could make a killing even only keeping part of the incentive - what do ya think?

Bill

brian125 · December 2013

bill

This is a win win situation for dealerships and consumer. My most educated guess is from past experiences in dec are dealers will sell cheaper.. In Reference to this new incentive by honda. If they give back half of there incentive money to make there sales number what money are they making. If you read that article they are getting a percentage to use for car sales. If a dealer sold 148 cars last month at 20% more sales = 177 cars or so this month. That gives a dealer about 83 thousand Incentive check according to the article. . If my math is correct dealers would lose money costing him about 88k to sell each vehicle for 500 dollars or more.. If dealers sold every accord for just 500 more than they could last month times that by 177 vehicles plus. dealers incentive is not worth it . I could not read full article but this is what i got out of it, I'm sure someone could chime in here who read full article.

If every buyer gets a taste of a few more dollars off this month makes everybody happy. Dec has always been like this..

What happens is most dealers will sell to folks for 100 or 200 more than usually this month. The more educated buyer may get 500 more than last month. So it all evens out for the dealerships. Some folks pay well above a good price by our standards.

Now guys like me are looking for that knock out deal Dec,30 and 31st hoping not only for that addition 500 but maybe another 500 to 800 plus knowing dealer may need those final sales and dealer does not want to lose me this close to the end of the month.

Makes sense

brian125 · December 2013

Sorry... bill i was emailing someone else and went off topic with you a bit.
I think it is very possible towards end of this month.

gmanusmc · December 2013

No problem - I understand what you're getting at. I cant help but think that some of the heavy hitter dealers might have an opportunity to pick up an extra 50k profit the last 10 days or so of dec if they can hit that magic number. And they can do that even splitting the incentive with the customer.

Bill

brian125 · December 2013

First 3 weeks dealers will be more aggressive in pricing but that last week might be where the best deals lie. Dealers will get over on some buyers by throwing in the accessories for free and maintaining a favorable price for themselves saving there big numbers for the end.

It should be interesting. dont count out the other car companies they will be dealing also maybe more aggressive than honda. This is a fun time to buy with all the competition

gmanusmc · December 2013

Hey - I'm looking for an excuse to upgrade my Civic EX to an Accord EXL - this might be it - I was gonna wait til Apr but ......

jongrreat · December 2013

Hey guys,

I'm in the processing of negotiating a deal on a 14 Accord EXL V6 (non-navi).

So far the best quote I've received is $27,842 plus taxes and title making it $30,341 OTD. If you include the $500 in flex cash, it would be $29,841 OTD. I'm

I'm in the Philly area and decided to expand my search so I solicited a few quotes in Baltimore and received the below from one dealer. It seems too good to be true. If you look in their fine print, it says "price does not include options." Is there where they're going to surprise me with $2k in "options"? I've already emailed back and they confirmed no options are included. I was planning to drive down and buy tomorrow.

THOUGHTS? is this deal too good to be true?

Thanks!

__________________________________________________ _____________

2014 Honda Accord EXL V6
The Drive-out for the Accord.
MSRP $30,345.00
Internet Price** $25,146.00
Destination & Handling $790.00

MD Sales Tax 6.00% $1,598.16
Tire Recycling Fee $4.00
New Tags & Titling Fees $255.00
Lien $20.00
Documentation Fee* $200.00
Drive-Out $28,013.16
**PRICING INCLUDES REBATE (SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY) AND REQUIRES FINANCING THROUGH AHFC** ADDITIONAL REBATES AVAILABLE TO ACTIVE DUTY MILITARY AND RECENT COLLEGE GRADUATES
*not required by state law. **Your price quote is valid in stock units & for 3 days only. Pricing does not include options. We reserve the right to modify this quote to correct arithmetic errors. Incentive and pricing programs are subject to change by Manufacture without notice. Pricing may not be valid with a special lease or with special financing, as determined by the manufacture. This price quote is only valid through the Internet Department.

brian125 · December 2013

jongreat,

My mom grew up in south philly. I hear its a ruff hood now.

1st off do not drive down to dealership without securing that they have the vehicle and the actual price is not a lie...

This is how you should proceed to close this deal. It will also tell you if that dealership is bs you.. A faxed bill of sale makes dealer disclose every charge / price for vehicle. Now there is no more questions about dealer lying to you.

Have dealer send you a fax bill of sale with vin number/ pricing and all the specific's after you look that over you and dealer sigh it then leave him a credit card deposit til you could get down to pick up car.

Sales tax is not calculated at MD's rate. its figured out by your states sales tax rate.

Once the dealer sends you that signed bill of sale make arrangements to go pick up your new car. you have just bought a vehicle by fax. One of the easiest and best ways to purchase a vehicle.

if you need more info on this transaction i will walk you thru it..

Good luck..... let us know how you made out.

gmanusmc · December 2013

That MD deal does sound too good to be true - its like 2300 below invoice. Better do like Brian suggests - get a faxed buyer order that details everything in writing so there are no surprises.

Bill G

karhill1 · December 2013

I have purchased many Honda vehicles in Maryland. Pricing is very competitive. I recommend Criswell, Sport, Norris, O'Donnell and Pohanka. If your price quote is from one of them it is most likely real. I avoid College Park, Shockley, and Ourisman Honda.

gmanusmc · December 2013

I hope this quote is legit - it might be a sign for Accord shoppers that this month is a great time to pull the trigger on a great deal.

Bill

brian125 · December 2013

Bill

might be wise to polish up your Civic and put that for sale sign on it.

Just in case the 2014 Accord falls in your lap for a epic price..
You are in a position just sitting back waiting to see how pricing goes. Things could change quickly be ready..
Check to see what your cars worth, maybe ask around if anyone of your friends may be interested in buying it.

This may play out to be a very nice Christmas in the car dept for you.........LOL

veers · December 2013

Well... I finally pulled the trigger for .... $26,950 on the 14 V6 EX-L (no nav). $1600 under invoice. Also got $1,650 worth of free accessories (wheel locks, splash guards, trunk tray, nitro tires, protection package - didn't even ask for these!). I think it was a fair deal. Dealer told me they are losing money on this and I may be responsible for the dealership closing (lol!). I think they still made $200-300 on the deal, plus it helps them hit the $3,000 bonus from Honda (which I was not aware of when buying the car). I ended up buying in N Va. after giving up on the NY/NJ/CT market - full of overpriced dealers who don't want to sell cars. Figure it cost me $200 or so to rent a car, drive down, and drive the new car up. Car is amazing and I am very happy with the purchase.

My advice to everyone is to reach out to as many dealers as possible and watch the prices come down as they get more desperate for your business. Just keep following up and negotiating down. You know you hit gold when the dealer tells you that they are losing money on the deal and have no idea why they are selling you the car, and that the dealership's own employees can't even get such a low price on the car. Name of the game is keeping their gross margin at the 1% level, because the difference goes into your pocket.

As far as the $3,000 bonus cash, not going to be easy to exploit. It's only on the first 20 cars above last December's sales. Many dealers will discount aggressively now and have surpassed that number by late in the month. You will need to find a dealer right on the cusp, and push them hard to split the $3k. Their accounting department may not play ball, as your deal will show up as a huge loss until they get the money from Honda. Good luck, and good hunting.

gmanusmc · December 2013

Congrats on the deal veers - enjoy the new Accord!

It cracks me up when the "we're losing money on this deal" card is played.

From what I have read about the 3000 incentive is that it's capped at 20% so if the dealer sold more than 100 units last year, they could make the bonus on more than 20 sales - i.e. 24 cars if they sold 120 last year and 144 this year.

Bill G

Forgot to mention - great price by the way!

veers · December 2013

Yes - the conversation was surreal. From a computer screen showing me a $2800 loss (lol!), to telling me that they were losing money (hahaha!!! you guys sell a lot of cars at a loss?), to repeatedly asking me to look in the newspaper to see if the dealership was closing down in the next few days because of too many losses on sales like mine. It's all part of the game, they were playing the sympathy card to try and get me to pay $1700 for a limited duration extended warranty (2.5x the price you can get it for from hyunnai or whatever his name is). And I also got OEM mats. At least I got some good giggles and fun stories for my friends.... Sales staff was excellent btw, it was F&I where they pressure was applied. Still deciding if I should get get the 8 year 120k extended warranty for $1100. So many electronic systems that could fail...

nyccarguy · December 2013

Congrats! So which dealer did you end up buying from? What was their doc fee?

veers · December 2013

Fees were included in the $26,950 price. Would rather not give dealership name after my little inside scoop. I'm looking at some of the docs I got, and seeing how this went down - I e-mailed asking for best price, internet guy e-mailed back offering $26,800. I then had to go up to $26,950 when manager balked at that price and said it was crazy. I now realize internet guy wrote that I had asked for $26,500 (not true) and he would close the deal. He made up a fake offer for a ridiculously low price and then raised it by $300 to$26,800 to make it look like he was negotiating to the higher price. All pretty funny stuff, nice to see some of the salespeople negotiating against their own dealerships and not just against consumers.

2013 and earlier-Honda Accord Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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