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Sunroof aside, I still think the differences between the LX and EX warrant the extra 2k for the EX if you can swing it. The rear disc brakes supposedly add better balance to the braking when driving with passengers, and the alloys and larger wheels are a nice touch too. These combined with the interior additions like the cd changer, seat height control, and wheel mounted controls make it a no-brainer. Also on the EX and up - the door and wheel controls for locks, stereo, etc, are illuminated.
I'm not into sunroofs that much either, especially not opening them because of wind noise, etc. I'm thinking of getting a wind deflector to help cut the noise down. But even without opening the roof, there is something about having light coming through the top during the day that adds a little something extra to the driving experience.
I live near Philly, PA. I got 3.9% financing for 60 mos. One note though about the prices I was quoted: I didn't have much of a choice about the color. One dealer had a silver, and the one closest to me had a Graphite Pearl. I liked the Graphite Pearl the best so I went with that. You may wish to spend a few hundred dollars extra if you can get the exact color you want. Supposedly, the MTs are harder to find so that makes it that much more difficult.
Good luck with the purchase!
The $17,800 for the '05 LX w/AT was out the door. It included doc fees and license. It did NOT include sales tax... there was none, as in TN certain military members are exempt from sales tax (as is my case).
From what I've seen on the boards, $17,800 is a pretty good price... some have done better, some not. But it gives you an achievable target (in some markets, anyway). Good luck.
Cheers, M
In response to your answer to the MILK analogy: you don't have a shark who attacks you as you walk into the dealership wanting you to immediately upgrade to chocolate. Then trying to push into a gallon when you only need a pint. Lastly telling you this price is only good today as this milk has to move out of the cooler.
You are forgetting that unless you visit a luxury dealer (where people usually are not looking for a deal but for the service) you are faced with dealing with sharks. Some dealers have a pool out front waiting for the next turnip to fall off the truck.
From a personal example: I purchased a '04 EB Expedition for $28,500 (it was the one in the paper to get people in the door). MSRP was $39,950. In your world you think I should have paid sticker. If you think a dealer is staying open in the inner loop of Houston, TX with acres of lot space making 15%, give me a call I have a house for sale and you can pay sticker.
You cannot just address the sticker price as their only take on a sale. In reality you must include the financing, trade-in (if you have been reading this forum and have ever traded in a car you know what I am talking about), accessories (Toyota used to charge $800 for a CD player), and everyones favorite 'undercoatings' (b/c the car manufactur left that out even though you get a 7yr rust protection warranty).
No one here is saying you need to rob a dealer, I agree that they need to make money. But don't trick yourself into thinking they are going broke. Houston has over 12 Honda dealers within a 50 mile radius. I have been alive for 32 years and not one of them has ever gone out of business.
Last Word: Do you even remember what the cost of Computer Memory was 10 years ago? Would you still rather we pay what IBM wanted us to pay? Knowledge is good among consumers...dealers will say no to you if they can't do a deal. Give it a rest and let the little guys put their best deal forward in peace.
I am shopping for the exact same car 2005 EX 4 cyl AT etc. Could you tell me the name of the dealer you bought yours from?
Thanks.
Thanks,
S
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So really no clues about the actual discounts or financing. Bummer.
The price for that vehicle is way too high. Put your own information here, completing all four steps, click Get Pricing Report, and you'll see that a private party deal should be closer to $3,500.
http://www.edmunds.com/used/1997/honda/accord/14279/options.html?tmvaction=vdpre- - - sult
I've an old LX and am looking for a new one.
Or really interested in upgrading to an EX.
Thanks,
S
I am shopping for the exact same car 2005 EX 4 cyl AT etc. Could you tell me the name of the dealer you bought yours from?
Thanks.
I bought my car from Riverside Honda (So.Cal) and paid $21,800 OTD. If you can't get a good price from them, you may also check out Norm Reeves Honda Superstore in Cerritos as they were willing to match the price I got. Other dealers in the LA area I heard good price feedback on this forum are Spirit Honda and Kolbe Honda, although personally the quotes I got from them were higher than from Riverside Honda.
In the Bay Area (I'm not sure were you're located) you may be able to get even lower prices than So. Cal. If you decide to buy there, check out AutoWest in Fremont and Anderson Honda in Palo Alto. I got quotes that were $600 to $700 less than in So.Cal.
The last thing I should mention is to definitely try to deal with their internet sales department. The way to start would be to request a quote through their website, instead of calling the dealer directly. The same dealer will try to sell the same car for a lot more (several hundred bucks or even $1,000 more) if you go through their regular sales force. In a way, by going through the internet dept. you are bypassing the middleman. Send a standard "request for quote" e-mail to dealers explaining you are serious about buying the car now (if you are) and are sending similar requests to other Honda dealers in the area. That should get them to quote you the lowest or close to lowest price they are willing or able to sell you the car for.
Good luck.
Sticker prices are developed based on the marketing strategy that each manufacturer develops for each particular unit.
Residuals for leases are then based upon these MSRP's which are very often inflated.
You can currently find Chevy Cavs with stickers of over $20k....... Do you think they are even close to what an Accord with a sticker of $20 k is (In terms of reliability and driving experience)?????
I am not even going to get into leases because we could write books about it.....
Lets just stick to cash purchasing (NO LEASE/NO FINANCE)......
Continued in next message.......
As soon as I got in the door I went right to the desk and asked for the "General Sales Manager". Of course the Asst manager wanted to sit me with a salesman...... I said " I don't need a salesman, I'd like to speak to someone who has discretion to make deals." And the Asst said "ok talk to me"
I explained to him that I wanted an EX-V6 4dr Auto no NAV and that I would take the car right then and there, but that the deal would have to be below triple net
(INV - HB - ALL INCENTIVES) + taxes + MV
Now remember this guy was hungry for units because he had to make his fast start number and he had a slow first two weeks of the month.
His initial number was 24,900 OTD (NJ Reg)....... I said you are not even close and got up to leave...... He then brought in another "Asst Manager" who tried to explain to me the advantages of buying from his dealership.
I said " Look 24,900 is not gonna cut it" and started to walk.....
Then the GSM steps in and says..... "Where do you need to be for me to earn your business today?"
I said , " I would strongly consider buying from you at $23,900 OTD."
The GSM said "Lets split the difference and call it $24,400 OTD."
I said , " No thanks ." And got up to leave (for a third time). Remember at this point I had not offered $23,900, I only said I would STRONGLY CONSIDER BUYING at $23,900 OTD.
As i said to him " Thanks for your time." He said to the ASST ...... ok proceed at the $23,900 number, but he had already lost me..........
Point is many of these honda dealers (especially in NJ) are cutting their own throats for units..... and honda created the situation by having TOO MANY DEALERS and offering poorly planned programs like stair step.......
Another thing.... if a salesman knows less about the product than me, then he adds NO VALUE to the transaction, and shouldn't even get a $75 flat........
Delivery 515
Processing 399
Title transfer 21
Tax (7%) 1648
Options include rear spoiler, front spoiler and frog lights. Does that seem like a good price for ATL georgia. Its under invoice but it just seem too much for an accord.
It is actually fog lights - it cracks me up whenever you say frog lights....
Any responses appreciated.
So at the stage of crunching numbers and need to figure how much a tag transfer and a title costs.
Where do I go to find these?
Is destination a true cost that I need to consider?
Any other miscellaneous stuff I need to add?
Or not add?
Thanks,
S
Has been fine with the get up and go.
Now I am being advised by family and friends to get a V6.
I don't think I need more power.
Would rather have better gas mileage.
What am I missing that they see?
Thanks,
S
Honda along with most if not all car makers give holdbacks to their dealers. I would really question the integrity of the sales guy that told you Honda doesn't have dealer holdbacks and probably stay away from this dealer, since this is a lie. What I understand based on reading through this forum is that most dealers are unwilling to share this holdback with the buyer. But this is a completely separate issue.
BTW, Honda's holdback is 3% of the Base MSRP (MSRP before adding desired options)
[Is destination a true cost that I need to consider?] Destination charge for a Honda Accord is fixed at $515 regardless of the location in the US. When asking for a quote you should always ask them to include the destination charge in the quote, since you have to pay for it.
[Any other miscellaneous stuff I need to add?] Depending on the state, there are a few items that dealers use to make their quotes appear low or difficult to compare with other quotes. Some of the items that are not "true dealer costs" are documentation fee (I see people being quoted $200 to $400 depending on where you live), internet fees, advertising fee, etc.
If you're planning to get quotes from more than one dealer, ask them to quote their prices before TTL (tax, title, license) but including everything else (documentation fee, etc.). This is the only way to really compare quotes from different dealers. Then add the TTL to get the OTD (out the door) price. Good luck.
Drive both and you'll notice immediately that the new Accord 4 cylinder is much faster than your current car which you believe is fast enough. I have the '04 EX-L 4 sedan with A/T and it's smooth, fast, and gas mileage has been amazing for a large, protective car (average 24 to 28 MPG).
The V6 is faster, but you're unlikely to need that extra power--especially when you find out how much better the new Accord is from your old one.
If you keep your car a long time (and it appears that you will), note that the V6 has a timing belt you'll probably have to replace at some point. The 4 has a permanent timing chain that requires no maintenance during the life of the engine.
Your friends and family might try to tell you that the V6's power is safer, but I think that's baloney. Good drivers know their cars' limitations and don't take the risks in a moderately powered car as they might in a very fast one. The Accord 4 is a very safe car.
So, I think you should test both, then buy the 4 cylinder Accord after you see how good it really is.................Richard
As for how to negotiate a price, Consumer Reports suggest starting from the dealer's wholesale price (Invoice less holdback less incentives). There's no reason not to. If they want to negotiate, they will. If not, walk away. And don't feel pressured or bullied. If you do, excuse yourself and walk away. They want your sale - you don't need to buy from a particular shop.
Question about the timing belt.
I've changed the timing belt twice on my LX.
The manual says every 90,000 miles and the dealer pressured me at 70,000 for the first one and I did it earlier this year at 175,000.
When did they go to a chain?
What is considered the life of the engine?
Thanks,
S
Also, when leasing, does it make a difference to wait until the new models? I know leasing involves a lot of depreciation calculations, so, even though the price of the old model goes down, would the lease really go down if suddenly it's already depriciated one year's worth?
Thanks for your advice
A few things :
1. Talking to a salesman who doesn't have authority to cut deals is a WASTE OF TIME!
2. I NEVER set a price I would buy, only a price I would "Consider Buying At".
3. I knew for a fact that the prices would be better in July/Aug then they were in May.......
4. He might have had a better shot if he gave me his bottom line price to start with.
The fact is, I was prepared to write a check if I was given a deal which I felt was better than what would be avialable in July/Aug.
Most Auto Salespeople are under-trained and have no discretion to make deals
I would rather buy from a kiosk
The experience would be easier and more enjoyable
Remember that I said most.......
some salesmen/women are very knowledgeable/professional and add value to a transaction......
my opinion however is that most do not.......
kirstie_h
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Also you would be asked to provide a source of income, as the dealers required to submit information on buyers who pay in cash in the amounts exceeding $10,000.
That is the only way to deal with the car dealer.
Accord LX Sedan 4cyl MT
$17000 incl delivery, OTD $18700 w/9% tax
Accord LX Sedan 4cyl AT
$17300 incl delivery, OTD $19040 w/9% tax
Am working on other dealers
Tks.
The best so far:
$17,669 + tax & licence
Others include:
$18,298 + tax & licence
$18,419 + tax & licence
(quotes listed above destination charge have been included)
I also recerived alot letters from mail.
is that mean we can ask for LOWER price?
I am trying to get a EX V6 auto 4dr Accord, best price i got is 24,500 OTD
should i ask for another car??
Are these for Accord LX 4dr MT? or AT?
The 4 cylinder Accord went to a timing chain with the current generation in 2003. The life of the engine depends on how you drive and how you maintain your car.
Before overhead cam engines and timing belts became common, I think all cars had chains and there was no schedule for replacing them. Timing belts are fine and continue to be used in many engines; however, the timing chain in the 2003 to present Honda Accord 4 cylinder has no maintenance schedule and it's unlikely to be a matter of concern.
So, at least in my opinion, the chain is better because it's a permanent part you should never have to worry about and it's one advantage of the 4 over the V6.
Think of it this way, if your current Honda had a timing chain, whatever money you spent to replace the timing belt twice would still be in your pocket .........Richard
The dealers are in the LAX region.
I take that back, one did say he will sell invoice and I got a "flyer" today that they are doing employee pricing.
No one will give me a price by email.
What are you doing to get actual prices?
Thanks,
S