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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • kenny25kenny25 Member Posts: 7
    Please make the voices go away! My wife loves her i30. About 2 months ago the dashboard warning lights started coming on at startup...battery / brakes / airbag...the radio started cutting off...windows were slow...I put in a new battery...OK for about two weeks and then...still the same...three weeks off and on in the shop...alternator tested bad...put in new alternator...still problems...put new plug on the wires leading to the alternator...still had issues...put in another new alternator...OK for a few days...started again...lights are on for a while and then they go out...then...car will be dead as a door nail...tests run for a slow bleed...nothing definitive. Starts a few times without lights...then...starts in again...lights seem to go out when the fan kicks on and then the alternator engages? At a loss...Saw a post where somebody had the same problem but nobody posted a solution. Any help would be greatly appreciated. New to the board...glad to be here. Thanks in advance for your time. Kenny :confuse:
  • bronzebackbronzeback Member Posts: 5
    My 01 I30 battery and brake lights started coming on a few weeks ago also. I changed the battery and still have same thing. I had alternator tested and showed it wasnt putting out enough amps. I havn't changed that yet, but I'm sure thats going to be costly. Any ideas?
  • joweejowee Member Posts: 1
    Hello, I was wondering if there was anyone out there that could explain to me how to replace the light for the clock in the dash of a 2001 I30. The clock is an analog clock that used to light up but the bulb went out. Is there an easy way to get in there and replace the bulb without taking apart the dash completely. And if so, what bulb goes in there? Any help/direction is really appreciated. Thanks.
  • pvellozopvellozo Member Posts: 19
    i have the same screeching sound on cold startups with my 2000 i30. also it would not start at all after being outside on a cold(less that 30 degree) day.
    did you find out what was wrong? thanks
  • kenny25kenny25 Member Posts: 7
    We showed low amps on the alternator too. One thing an alternator specialist recommended was to check the plug that goes to the top of the alternator. We replaced it for about $50 as the connection wasn't snug and was causing some bad reads on the alternator itself. That didn't solve the whole puzzle but appeared to have been a piece. We tried a Maxima alternator as a replacement which was going to be cheaper than the i30 alternator...didn't work out...Now our lights are still coming on when the engine is cold and appear to go off when the fan engages and this kick starts the alternator...we are currently trying to find a relay switch in common...hope maybe some of this helps. Good luck! Keep me posted. Kenny
  • bronzebackbronzeback Member Posts: 5
    Thanks Kenny. I'll start with replacing the connection and go from there. I checked the price for the Maxima alternator and it was identical. I'm trying everything I can before I take it to the dealer. Have you had to change your ignition coils yet?
  • eric2007eric2007 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 i30 with 120k car ran excellent came home one evening and notice on the way SES light came on, parked car went to start up hour later will not fire up!! What seems to be the problem, Thanks
  • kenny25kenny25 Member Posts: 7
    Sorry about the delayed reply...budget season...we didn't replace the ignition coils...just drove it to the in-laws and back...about 5 hours on the interstate one way...seemed to have overcome most of the issues...lights come on for about two blocks at startup and then stay off...everything functioning on a normal basis...praying over the car regularly seems to help :)
  • kenny25kenny25 Member Posts: 7
    If you read this thread from the beginning you may find some insight...battery, plug on the top of alternator, alternator, relay switches, etc. etc. Just becomes a trouble shooting adventure when it comes to electrical issues...wishing you all the best!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    There is a TSB on this; the tricky part, I suspect, is getting the clock apart from the rest of the dash. From the looks of things (I haven't tried this myself), you'd have to loosen up the panel that surrounds the center air vents and disconnect the clock from the top of it. There are two bulbs which install from the back.
  • jeh255jeh255 Member Posts: 4
    bought my 2000 I30 new. Have had most of the problems on this forum. Brake chatter started when new and was resolved by dealer. I've had the window noise, the transmission slipping and the engine pinging during acceleration which were not resolved under the service bulletins. At almost exactly 50,000 miles in Aug of 2006 I had the Alternator/new battery problem. I'm fortunate because that seemed to fix the electrical issues. Shortly after that the driver's seat stopped moving forward and backward. Then the brakes began to chatter again so I replaced pads and rotors at the dealer. Two weeks later, at 55,000 miles my service engine light is now on. I believe that this car is more unreliable each day and I'm disappointed that the dealer and Nissan aren't taking action on these obviously well known problems. I really like my car, but it feels like some timer has gone off and the problems are just continuing to accumulate. Has anybody gotten any satisfaction on any of these issues after warranty?
  • pvellozopvellozo Member Posts: 19
    had this problem with my 00 i30 with 107k miles. i put up with it for a while(possibly not a good idea), then replaced the starter and the sound is 90% gone, just the occasional chirp on starting. also have had the screeching windows which i cured with silicone spray. finally the drivers seat does not go forward and backward. anyone have a fix for that that doesn't cost a bundle? :sick:
  • cmacdonaldcmacdonald Member Posts: 3
    Has anyone found a solution for the "Ghost in Electrical System"? I am having similar problems with random dash warning lights coming on (brake, ABS, battery, airbag), it loses power and the car dies. (Unfortunately this has happened twice while I am going high speeds on the freeway). The car will not restart with out a jump and last time we had to jump it several times. The next day the car starts, the dash lights are gone and it is fine again. The dealer has put 80 miles on it trying to get it to do it again but has had no luck. It is not recording any problem codes. Dealer gives up and says I must come and get it. Please help if you have answers. :sick:
  • greenhippogreenhippo Member Posts: 3
    Hi all, just a quick problem, drive a 1997 infiniti i30. Had it for about a year and no problems. However this morning I heard a noise I hadnt come across yet. When shifting from 1st to 2nd or 2nd back down to first I hear this high pitched squealing noise, almost like something being wound-up. Take it to my local firestone and without running a single check tell me it needs a new tranny $1000 minimum. Ive had problems with them before and I would have very much liked to have the car actually checked out, not just a mechanic walking outside and listening for 10 seconds. Any suggestions? Thanks
  • greenhippogreenhippo Member Posts: 3
    just a follow up on previous post, i see a lot of people attributing this kind of noise to the alternator. Id much rather buy a new alternator than tranny, thanks again.
  • mmyplsrmmyplsr Member Posts: 6
    I JUST CHANGED THE ENGINE ON THIS CAR. RUNS GREAT BUT I CANT GET THE CHECK ENGINE LITE TO STAY OUT. IT SHOWS P1400 CODE WHICH IS EGRC/PLT VLV ERROR. I HAVE CHANGED BOTH ITEMS WITH KNOWN GOOD PARTS. LITE STAYS OUT FOR ABOUT 20 MINUTES THEN COMES ON AGAIN...ANY SUGGESTIONS..GETTING FRUSTRATED HERE...THX MIKE
  • vinbansalvinbansal Member Posts: 1
    Couple of months ago I had SES Code P1320 and P0303, and the mechanic replaced Coil of cylinder 3 at a cost of $250. A week ago the SES light came back and the Codes are P1320 and P0420. I don't want to spend another $250, is there anyway to determine what cylinder coil do I need to replace? Thanks.
  • greenhippogreenhippo Member Posts: 3
    anyone else realize the ratio of questions to answers is about 15-1??
  • bronzebackbronzeback Member Posts: 5
    Still having the dash lighting up with the battery,brake,ses, and so on. Is there anyone who knows what the problems is? There is so many similar problems with this model why isn't the manufacturer steppin up?
  • cmacdonaldcmacdonald Member Posts: 3
    I am having the same gremlins. My car is still under warranty so it has been back and forth to the dealer for the last two weeks. Last week they put 180 miles on my car and ran tests and are unable to replicate the problem. They gave me back the car and told me next time it happens to tow it in and don't restart or jumpstart the car as it is clearing the codes. Dealer put in a tech order but said he could find no one else out there who has posted a solution. Thinking about dumping the car with only 50K mls because I don't feel safe anymore.
  • kenny25kenny25 Member Posts: 7
    Found another resource and posted the same electrical problems over there. Got a good reply. Might be of value here. I'll let everybody know if it helped. I just put in battery #2 a couple of days ago. This thread details my adventure. Check this out!

    http://x.infinitihelp.com/forum/showthread.php/ghost-electrical-i30-388.html
  • bronzebackbronzeback Member Posts: 5
    I'm with you Kenny. The more info the better. Keep me posted on battery number 2. I'm going to clean and tighten all ground connections. We'll get to the bottom of this sooner or later.
  • listenlisten Member Posts: 8
    (2002 Infiniti i35)
    Same thing just happened tonight on my clock. Bulb went out. At night it looks like a big GAP on top of the radio when that bulb is out. How frustrating! Super nice car and the clock doesn't even light up. I guess you have two options..take apart the whole dash board, gear shift and radio (while risking dropped screws and cut wires) or risk breaking something by taking it straight out and hope you hit the clamps in the right place. What a nightmare! :cry:

    Does ANYONE have any suggestions on how to take the clock out of the dash WITHOUT taking it ALL apart?
  • lyd12687lyd12687 Member Posts: 1
    :) hey- i don't know if anyone replied to this or not, but i just experienced the same thing with mine. It turned out that i needed a new battery....head over to sears or an auto store and have them run a test on your battery :-) hope this helps!
  • sr1nathsr1nath Member Posts: 6
    I have come across a classified for 01 I30. The car needs new breaks (all four). Do you have idea how much it is going to cost?

    Thanks
  • marbilmarbil Member Posts: 3
    The dash insert that houses the clock and air vents can easily be removed. Slide a narrow putty knife into the upper or lower edge & apply up/down pressure as you pull out on the putty knife. Once it's out far enough to get a good grip, just pull. I took one of the bad bulbs to Radio Shack and found a bulb about the same size; 1 1/2 inches wires with plastic insulator. (don't have part number) Gently remove the plastic and cut wire to same length as bad bulb. It may not have the same brightness. but it only cost about $2 and burns a lot longer.
  • samuelh1samuelh1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 Infiniti i30.
    Service engine soon light came on and took it to my mechanic. He said that I needed oxygen sensor replaced and my kock sensor replaced. I was also told that my gas mileage will be much better after those changes. Now, it's been about 2 weeks and my gas mileage has been worse than before. I know there is no adjustment to make on Fuel Injection cars. Is this normal? Can it be that the sensors, maybe one of them is bad?
    Thanks
  • kenny25kenny25 Member Posts: 7
    I30 saga over several posts. Replaced alternator several times, lead harness, xtra ground cables, fuses, 2 new batteries, etc. Still had dash lights come on and still had a dead car after two weeks. Service mgr at Infiniti dealership said no replacement alternator will make the lights behave except a Hitachi 140amp OEM alternator. I found one on eBay out of a place in California...came shrink wrapped...a sparkling beauty...put it in...NO MORE PROBLEMS! Car is happy, wife is happy. All is good!
  • jimathenjimathen Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1999 Infinity i30

    Everything in the car works fine except my antenna. Every time I turn the car on and off, an odd clicking, almost grinding noise comes from that area of the car. Oh yeah, the antenna never goes down either. Can someone explain to me whats going wrong. Is it the motor? Or is the antenna just off track? And if anyone can explain to me how to fix this problem i would really appreciate it.
    Thanks
  • finballfinball Member Posts: 5
    Hello- New to the forum and wanted to say that I have a 2000 I30 that I've had since it had 11 miles on it, picked a titanium gray one right off of the dealership lot and I have to say that this is the BEST car I've ever had. It's never given me any problems...until now and since i've reached 102,000 miles. The #6 Ignition Coil has gone bad and the car starts but after a while it stutters and does that for about 10 minutes of initial driving. I had it checked out by my mechanic(warranty ran out :cry: ) and he came up with an estimate of $221 parts and labor(part being $136). I found the coils at Auto Zone, 1-3 $65.99 and 4-6 $69.99. Only problem now is getting it replaced...I noticed a few mentions of self-install. If anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it.
    Thanks
  • finballfinball Member Posts: 5
    Hi sr1nath-new brake job should cost around $450, I know because I just had both front and back done. Pads and rotors for both, hope that helps.
  • marbilmarbil Member Posts: 3
    Replacing an ignition coil is very easy. For the front bank of cylinders, you just have to remove the large grey plastic cover (with Infiniti logo) that hides the coils. The front three are lined up in a row. A grey connector with green release tabs is plugged into the side of each coil. Remove the connector and then the remove the bolt holding the coil in place. Grab the coil and pull up to pop it loose from the spark plug. (Just like you would remove an older type plug wire). The ignition coil has a tube attached to it. This is a removable connector that connects the coil to the spark plug. Pull it off and pop it back on your new coil. Insert the tube with the new coil attached into the spark plug hole and push until it pops back on the plug. That's all it takes, and, you just saved yourself about $150 in labor charges.

    The rear three coils are not covered. (Note: they are a different shape than the front coils) They're just a little hard to get to. The removal process is the same. Just note that the connectors connect to the top of the coils, not the side.

    The bank number of the defective coil should be identified when reading the trouble codes. If it's not keep driving and read the code again after the next occurrence of engine misfire. )That's how I was able to get the bank number for my defective coil.
  • marbilmarbil Member Posts: 3
    Opps! Message #234 applies to year 2000 I30.
  • tleetlee Member Posts: 44
    I have a certified I30 which is covered under a 7-year, 100,000-mile warranty. The "service engine soon" light came on the day before yesterday. I made an appointment with the Infiniti dealer yesterday and brought the car in this morning. It turned out that the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced. The dealer said that the O2 sensor itself is covered under warranty. However, in order to install the new sensor, the dealer said a new computer program has to be installed, which is NOT covered under warranty and will cost me $120. To me, it doesn't make sense at all. If it is required, shouldn't it be covered by the warranty? I suspect the dealer is just trying to squeeze some extra money out of me (in addition to the $50 deductible).

    I've seen many times in Acura, BMW, and other forums that people are routinely getting free software upgrade during the warranty period, especially for first-year models. So, I thought it should be free of charge for Infiniti as well. Does Infiniti always charge customers for software upgrade even during the warranty period? Please help, thanks.

    By the way, the dealer said there are 4 oxygen sensors in the I30. Is it true?
  • samuelh1samuelh1 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1999 infiniti. The engine light came on about 2 months ago. I took it to my local mechanic. Found out that I needed to replace my knock and oxygen sensors. It cost me about $550.00. However, there was no need to upgrade computer program. Like you said, most probably they're trying to make some money. Dealers hate to see when you go back with Powertrain warranty. I just took my other car to the dealer for powertrain warranty job and they tried to do the same. I was firm and that I told them that I was going to call the manufacturer and they got everything done for $0.00.
    Good luck.
  • tleetlee Member Posts: 44
    Thanks for the info. I called the manufacturer and they told me that there is something called "long-term emission warranty" which only goes up to 80,000 miles. Since my car is over 80K miles, it is not covered. The problem I have with that is, when I bought the car, they didn't say anything about it. And it's also not mentioned in the certified pre-owned warranty. Furthermore, I don't understand why the O2 sensor is covered by the pre-owned warranty but the computer program update is not. It seems to me that both are emission related.

    Anyway, since it's no use to argue with them, I just told the dealer to replace the O2 sensors without the program update. I have taken the car back from the dealer this afternoon and everything seems to be fine so far. However, I think I'll never buy another car from Infiniti. Previously, I've been thinking about buying a new G35 or M35.
  • finballfinball Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the reply marbil. I actually found an illustated instruction on how to change out the front bank but now I would like to change out the rear and have no idea where they are. I did notice that you mentioned that they are a little more difficult to get to. Would you have a descriptive on how to get to those as well? Thanks again.
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    There are indeed four oxygen sensors in the I30: two front (left and right) and two rear (red and white).
  • trickplay461trickplay461 Member Posts: 7
    I have a whirring sound immediately after start-up. The sound lasts a brief moment then is gone. It didnt occur consistently until recently and for some reason actually dissappeared in recent days. However, I expect it to return since I havent pinpointed its origin. My hunch is its something to do with the starter...since it occurs solely on start-up. The car shows no operating problems at all afterwards. I read on another site (different car & Model) about how belts on an engine can sometimes slip in cold weather making a sound until they "catch". The article went on to say that warm weather usually fixes this or that changing your belts would also be a possibility. Any ideas anyone? I would go to the dealership but I have found them very incompetent. Thanks for any info.
  • trickplay461trickplay461 Member Posts: 7
    Hi:
    I im assuming that u have a problem with the actualy motor of the the power antenna. I had a similar problem with my car, though its not an infinity. When I start my car I can hear the motor working....clicking, grinding, etc. Yet the antenna stays up and never moves from this position. The problem was in the motor. The "teeth" or "gears" in the actual motor were destroyed which resulted in this clicking and grinding sound. The motor would turn but the actual gears to raise and lower the antenna are damaged, hence no movement. I found a generic power antenna online for about $70 and installed it myself, which took some work because of its mounted location. I hope this helps and gl with ur antenna :)
  • mcntctmcntct Member Posts: 1
    Hi,
    I test drove a I30 t today and liked it .. nice ride a luxurious car ...did see some of the problems with rotors dealer said he wud get it fixed .....the cars run around 75,000 miles but was quite and smooth and handled well ...is there something specific i should be looking out for? some kind of warranty nething at all ... I felt it was a gud deal ... but would love to read any other comments and advice I might get from you all .. thank you for your help ....

    future Infiniti Fan

    p.s am gonna go over all the posts now ...thank you once again
  • pegandedpeganded Member Posts: 3
    I have a 96 I30. Just bought it yesterday. While adjusting the back of the seat, I couldnt get it to go back. I adjusted it all the way forward & it wont go back. Cant even drive it like this. Anyone know an easy way to get it to go back?
  • finballfinball Member Posts: 5
    Hey again,
    Does anyone have specifics/illustrations on how to change out the headlamp housings? Got the first two bolts on the top off and now I'm stuck... I have my replacement housings and notice that there is a another bolt hole at the very bottom of the housing. Inside the car there is no physical way to get to that position on the housing. Does anyone have some input on this? :confuse:
  • appelsappels Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 infiniti I30. My "service engine light soon" has been going on and off intermittently for several years. At one point I got it checked and the code was P0420 (related to faulty emissions). After some research it seems this simply needs to be reprogrammed at the dealer as it is a glitch and does not represent an actual emission problem. The light is now off for several months and my emission inspection is due.

    The problem is, my car will fail the inspection because the faulty code is still stored in memory, even though there is nothing wrong with my emission. I'd like to clear the code and then I should be all set after a couple days of driving. I know I could get to an autocenter to get them to reprogram the ECM or clear it but they would charge me for that and I would need to take off of work. I read that there is a way to do this manually by turning a screw next to the ECM. Problem is, I do not know where to find the ECM in my car. A detailed location would be most appreciated. (Please know that I am a bit of a car novice and so I don't know what you mean exactly by things like firewall and kickboard so if you can use lay terms I would appreciate it).

    Thanks!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    It's probably the starter. What's happening (at least, what happened in my case, which was similar) is that there's a little gear to turn the flywheel, moved into and out of position by a solenoid, and the solenoid is now basically shot, meaning that the little gear is not withdrawing fully from contact with the flywheel when its done and is actually grinding, hence the flatulent-goose noise. Swapping out the starter is the fix.
  • bobflbobfl Member Posts: 19
    Recently I got a missfire code on my 2000 I30 so I took it to the dealer. Imagine my surprise when they told me it was caused by a defective coil and they had no way to tell which one so they must replace them all at a cost of $1100. I took the car back right away to a local mechanic. He replaced all the spark plugs (73,000 miles) and it has been running fine ever since. I have been thinking of getting a new G35 but after that little fiasco I think I will go see Toyota. This was my fourth and quite likely last Infiniti. Last year another Infiniti dealer wanted $495 to put rear brake pads on it.If they can't make a decent living giving honest value they should give it up!
  • windowphobe6windowphobe6 Member Posts: 765
    That does seem rather stiff. At the one dealership here in the Big Breezy, I paid just over $150 for new front brakes in February; I had the back brakes redone *and* the rotors turned last fall for less than $300. (2000 I30, currently 95,400 miles.)
  • trickplay461trickplay461 Member Posts: 7
    I have been to the local Infinity dealership and passed on getting my repairs there when possible. My local dealership charges $110.00 an hr. for labor as well as top dollar for parts. You dont have many options here. Myself, I have found them unreliable and not very good at anything but "swapping out parts" when doing repairs. I have a trusty mechanic and have him do all my work. I buy any parts from online retailers OME (original manufacturer equipment) or from Infiniti when I have no other choice (which is rare) and have my mechanic install them. I have saved quite a bundle this way. Just a note. Infinity is considered more and more a luxury brand and hence you will pay "luxury money" to maintain your vehicle. Good luck with your ride :)
  • trickplay461trickplay461 Member Posts: 7
    I've been hearing a screeching noise (slight but annoying) which is getting worst. It sounds exactly like the sound made by a car which is having power steering problems. It isnt to the point where the sound is overwhelming but its definitely audible. Im wondering if this is the power steering pump. I hear the sound as I drive and the sound sometimes doesnt come at all but is showing up more regularly now. Any ideas anyone? and is this a job possibly for a Do-it-yourself guy?
  • dviganodvigano Member Posts: 3
    I can't stand having someone working on my vehicles! I finally broke down last year when the speedometer in my I30 stopped working. They charged me $180 to replace the "Speed Sensor" (a $25 part) that I had already replaced only 3 months prior. Needless to say, I didn't return when it still wasn't working properly. Thanks anyway, I'll take care of my own vehicles!
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