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Infiniti I30/I35 Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • jewoods2jewoods2 Member Posts: 1
    Car started shutting off and won't stay idled. After sitting for awhile it starts up but eventually cuts off. I need help any suggestions???
  • sarah023sarah023 Member Posts: 1
    edited February 2012
    I have the exact same car and having the same problem i just wouldn't call mine convulsive though. It started cutting out a few days ago (just while driving) Now its even doing it while it sits and idols. The check engine light is on and its got a heavy vibration and misen while in drive,1,2 but purrs like a kitten in park or neutral (can't even hear it running). I got autozone to do a diagnostics check on it and it read that the oxygen sencor had an error but not a malfunction. ? I was told it may be the coil packs or plugs, its not my air filter i know that, it looks brand new. I'll give you any information i receive, hope you'll do the same for me.

    Someone, please help, i'm still financing this car, can't afford it to get any worse. I've had it less than a week and don't know much about it, but it was as smooth as could be the first 2 or 3 days i had it
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    its a common problem with the i30. Its actually the MAF sensor(Mass Air Flow sensor), which is located right after the air filter. It looks like a 8 inch wide cylinder. It can cause your car to [1: make a pinging noise when your at about 2500 rpm. 2: feel sluggish 3: shutting down your car while idling (this is when the sensor is just dirty as hell and read the air intake properly so your car chokes and shuts off cause the ecu tells it to.) This part is only made by infiniti so you should buy a new one, not used! I think you can clean the one you already have using some sort of cleaning spray (i forgot what its called) and it should temporarly fix your problem for super cheap so you know its the MAF sensor giving you problems. This part can cost like 400-600$ depending on where you live but its very easy to change cause its right behind the air filter. It would take a good mechanic about 15-20 minutes max to do it. You may experience this problem before your light even came on and even if a light comes on, it doesn't actually tell you its the MAF sensor. Once you get the MAF sensor replaced try to clean out your air filter box and everthing before that so you don't dirty your new MAF sensor again. I hope this helps.
  • royal04royal04 Member Posts: 1
    Okay so my car was over heating and then shuts off, i replaced the cracked radiator and the waterpump. after that that the car turned on fine 4 times. something was clicking so they tightened the tensioner after that my car would not turn on. if i listen closely while the hood is up i can hear some trying to rotate but stops. what can this be, so i have an idea on what needs to b done?
  • twilliams3twilliams3 Member Posts: 2
    My Infiniti i30 will not shift out of first gear after the car has been idling for a period of time for example 5-10 minutes. If I turn the engine off and let the car sit the shifting returns. The check engine light came on and we had diagnostics ran but nothing returned. The light stayed off for 3 days and is now back on. Any suggestions?
  • pschmidt64pschmidt64 Member Posts: 2
    Have an I30 that when driving it, it acts like it was suddenly shifted into neutral. Beyond a certain speed the engine just revs. I can stop the car, turn it off, then start it again, and it's fine. Doesn't happen often and not very consistantly either. No check engine light comes on. Transmission fluid is fine. I've seen some google search posts about a control valve, but no more details, and dealer doesn't seem to know.

    Any ideas what might be wrong??

    Thx
  • twilliams3twilliams3 Member Posts: 2
    Same issue with my car but the check engine light was on. I had two O2 sensors changed which corrected the engine light and a speed sensor to correct the shifting. This was after spending over $600 to have the throttle body replaced which is what I was told was the problem.
    So far after having a new speed sensor the car has been fine.
  • refugeescamprefugeescamp Member Posts: 43
    I had the same problem a few years ago and so has a lot of people. When its doing that and the check engine light is not on, its 95% chance its your MAF sensor (mass air flow). Only infinity sells this part and can cost 400-600$ depending where you live. Its extremely easy to install, its right after the intake. If you take out your air filter, you will see from inside this cylinder looking mesh right after the air filter. That's the MAF sensor. Apparently you can use some sort of spray (i forgot which) to clean it but it won't after a few trips. Try to find how to clean it and then drive your car around and see how it feels. If its slighly better, then u need to change it.
  • jax89jax89 Member Posts: 4
    mine does it too and i want to know why
  • pschmidt64pschmidt64 Member Posts: 2
    well as luck would have it, the check engine light finally came on, and we took it in...was a road speed sensor in the transmission. Replaced that and everything has been fine since.

    FYI
  • jax89jax89 Member Posts: 4
    ive noticed that when i go to try to start my car sometimes and it doesnt start, if i shift the gear down all the way up like twice and then take my key out the ignition and off the chain and its single(like just that key not the other ones its with) then it starts.
  • jerry183jerry183 Member Posts: 5
    edited August 2012
    Hi,
    My son has a 1997 infiniti i30 and unfortunately the alarm keeps going off no matter what or when!
    Neighbors are about to run us out of town and don't blame them frankly!
    I would like to disable this forever so wondering if can just pull the black anti-theft fuse out of the box under the hood or is there something else I need to do. Am inserting pic. with top of box off for reference and fuse below. I do see wires coming out of bottom of the fuse so not sure if I should mess with this and our neighbors and us would surely appreciate your help. Thanks so much!
    http://i51.photobucket.com/albums/f396/Jerry32/infinitifuseunderhood.jpg
  • skragglepussskragglepuss Member Posts: 2
    Hi all. So after reading through this forum I am still unsure what is causing this. This flickering occurs at night while using my headlights. It also seems to only start after about 10+ minutes of driving. It happened again and I noticed that the flickering is less intermittent, meaning the lights are staying lit a little longer.

    I notice no engine/performance differences while the lights are flickering/emitted.

    I had just replaced my MAF prior to this new problem.

    Alternator was replaced 2.5 years ago.

    Battery & Alternator tested fine at AAdvance Auto, and the guy could see something wrong with my car and said it was probably a short?

    I have about 170k miles on it. I'm due for an oil change so when I drop it off at the mechanic I'd like to tell him about the issue. If it's a short is it better off to just wait until it actually shuts down? Otherwise, I may be throwing bad money at it trying to fix things that actually don't need to be fixed. I realize it's an old car and just having it run me to and from work is pretty much it's only purpose, although it's still a sharp car.

    Is it something related to the MAF? I did have the Check Engine Light on for like a few years, and it recently turned off after replacing the MAF. But this new problem is just weird to happen right after servicing my car.

    Thanks for all input!
  • tugbatugba Member Posts: 3
    Hello,
    I have a air flow sensor problem and I am gonna have it replaced in this week, and also a have an error and the code is P1492. I have a '98 infiniti i30. Do you have any idea about this error code?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    that's a code for the EVAP canister purge control solenoid valve.
  • tugbatugba Member Posts: 3
    Thank you for the answer. So, is it so important to take care immediately? can you just explain the function of this valve?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well the EVAP system is designed to trap and filter excess vapors from your fuel tank during fueling. It isn't urgent but in theory you might start smelling gas fumes, which would not be good. Probably the shutoff solenoid is bad or is could be a simple vacuum leak in one of the many hoses in the system. A good technician can usually find a vacuum leak by using a smoke machine (vacuum sucks in smoke at point of leakage).
  • tugbatugba Member Posts: 3
    I am gonna change the material, and I need to order it online
    http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-911-501-Solutions-Vapor-Canister/dp/B002E323TW/ref=- sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1349462419&sr=8-1&keywords=dorman+911-501+Oe+solutions+vapor+- canister+purge+valve

    Could u please check it, if this is the right material that I need to buy?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well it's up to the vendor to sell you the right part---that photo is just generic I think. Of course, it might be a vacuum leak and not the valve.
  • tutallintutallin Member Posts: 1
    I just bought an Infinity I30 1996. The old car works fine until I hit the brake to stop slowly in some neighborhood areas. The car turn itself off. I have to keep trying to start it for 15 to 20 minutes and then the car will turn on again. The car will run smooth until the next afternoon. The same thing happen again. This occured almost everyday for the past two weeks.
  • remifentaremifenta Member Posts: 1
    I am having a very similar problem right now on a 2001 I30. ABS light, O/D light, headlights, dashboard flicker when using the brake. Still trying to diagnose the problem.
  • skragglepussskragglepuss Member Posts: 2
    I had the BRAKE (parking brake) light and Battery light flicker simultaneously. I replaced the alternator and the lights went away. Shortly prior to this I had replaced the Mass Air Flow. So, I'm not sure if replacing the MAF triggered the other problems or not.

    I did notice that the ABS started to flicker by itself shortly before replacing the alternator. But anyways, no lights have flickered since the alternator was replaced.

    I did have it scoped at AutoZone and they said everyhting looked good (the lights were not flickering at the time). So, if it's intermittent it may not show until it finally breaks.
  • mickey54mickey54 Member Posts: 2
    The fix for my 1999 infiniti i30 with the same problem was the knock sensor. I was told and read the about MAF sensor, but this was not the problem, and be aware of just repairing a lot of items that will more than likely not be the fix(dealerships and mechanics are known for this)
  • mickey54mickey54 Member Posts: 2
    The fix for my 1999 infiniti i30 with the same problem was the knock sensor. I was told and read the about MAF sensor, but this was not the problem, and be aware of just repairing a lot of items that will more than likely not be the fix(dealerships and mechanics are known for this) This fix helped with problem of the car stalling out.
  • tkhan730tkhan730 Member Posts: 1
    just wondering how much work is involved in replacing an oil pump. how many hours would you say?
  • kenny1956kenny1956 Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone suggest what may be causing my infinity to stall out? Whenever the tachometer gets to around 2500 rpm, the engine starts to chock out. It acts like its starving for gas. I have had the repair shop replace several sensors (mass air flow sensor, cam shaft sensor, crankshaft sensor, throttle sensor). Also they replaced the fuel pump inside the gas tank and fuel filters. Whenever the weather outside is cooler (below 70F) the car seems to run OK. It acts up mostly when the weather outside is hot and sunny. It has nothing to do with the engine heat, it's just the heat outside (ambient temperature). My car runs good in the winter, fall and early spring. It only acts up in the heat of the summer.
    I tried leaving my windows down during the day, thinking that the ambient heat might be causing an electrical short, that might be causing my car to stall out? I am at the witts end, trying to figure this out. Can ANYONE please give me some advise on what may be my problem with my 96 infinity?
  • jax89jax89 Member Posts: 4
    My car doesn't stall but it won't start in the heat. Mine might be an ignition switch. I'm getting it checked soon
  • onlyshallow86onlyshallow86 Member Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    As the weather's getting warmer, I've been running into a strange issue with my car. The car will not start when it's been sitting out in the sun/noshade on 80 degree+ days.

    When I attempt to start, there is:
    - no "click"
    - no noise whatsoever from the starter
    - no changes in dials on the dashboard
    - dashboard check battery light turns on
    - A/C, stereo, headlights, etc. turn on

    This has happened several times - always on hot days when the car has been sitting out in the sun. It will consistently fail to start if I attempt to start repeatedly. I've had success getting the car to by opening the hood and letting the engine "air out", when it's not particularly hot out, or leaving it for a few hours and returning in the evening when it is cooler.

    Yesterday, it failed to start right after I pumped gas in the afternoon. I was able to get it started by waiting a few minutes with the hood open.

    I've had the car for five months and never had any issues starting in the winter.
    It's 13 years old and has about 110,000 miles on it. The battery is newish.
  • jax89jax89 Member Posts: 4
    The ignition switch. It's a $31.12 part at checkers. I had the same problem and finally replaced it last week and it works perfect now!
  • onlyshallow86onlyshallow86 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the tip!

    I'm going to try this test (from about.com) to confirm the ignition switch is the problem next time it happens. I think it's possible that the starter itself could be going bad - hopefully this (below) should isolate the issue?

    Bad Igntion Switch: If your battery checks out, but the starter is still silent, it may be a faulty ignition switch. Turn the key to the on position (not all the way to start). If the red warning lights on your dash don't light up (and your battery connections are clean), the ignition switch is bad. If they do light up, turn the key to the start position. The dash warning lights should turn off at this key position (most cars). If you're not sure, turn on the headlights. When you try to start the car, the lights should either dim (a lot) or turn off completely. If they do, your ignition switch should be ok. If not, the switch will need replacement.
  • will104will104 Member Posts: 1
    I spend hours looking for the same problem on my son's Infinity I 30. The problem was on the main harness to the engine by the battery box. Underneath there is the connector for the starter and that was the problem. I moved the wire and the car cranked right up. Check it out you might have the same problem.
  • hking1hking1 Member Posts: 1
    After driving car around all day, turning car off long enough to pump gas my car will not start. If I let the car sit for a few minutes, maybe 4 or 5 minutes, the car will start. My car is a 2001 Infiniti I30t with 159,000 mi. Can anyone shed any light as to why this is happening?
  • september8september8 Member Posts: 1
    Did you find your answer for this problem. My car has similar symptoms. Thanks!
  • steckhomesteckhome Member Posts: 1
    I have a 96 i30. Manual transmission. When driving, the engine will rev extremely high with very little acceleration even in 5th gear. Any help is appreciated.
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