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Chevy Silverado and GMC Sierra 2500 Owners
This discussion is for the Silverado 2500 owners.
KarenS
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KarenS
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Mike L
2000 Silverado 2500 4x4 6.0L 5spd Reg Cab Longbed
Average mpg - 14.0 w/pop up camper
Longest trip 7500 miles to West Virginia, Michigan and back to California
Mike L
Ordered 12/99, Built 2/9/00 Took delivery 2/26/00 - 17000 miles to date, no major problems 12-14 mpg around town 17.8 mpg best highway so far.
Towing 18 1/2' travel trailer 10 mpg. Well didn't buy it for the mileage obviously.
Pics @ www.picturetrail.com/rayt2/60054
Ray T.
Stuck in a pic of the window sticker too.
Andrew E.
Jovanotti
Its great
No negative things to report about it
http://www.picturetrail.com/rayt2/60054
Ray T.
jovaotti,I also did a spray in liner but I did line-x. I think the bigger name liners all hold up good but I could be wrong.
Andrew E.
Been there done that....
Ray T.
http://www.thedieselpage.com
Plenty of good info there i have heard
(hope the link works)
Ryan
I will be buying a 2001 2500HD 4WD crew cab AS with the 6.0L automatic no other options and I'm wondering if anyone can give me some advice for the dealer discussion and if anyone can give me they're opinion on the truck/options/accessories needed
thanks
Mike
USN
Nick
I encountered the same problem with mine. I have a 2500hd with allie and 15K miles so far and love everything about except that problem of leaving it set for awhile. There are two filters in this tranny, the one you can see and change (control main oil filter, a spin on) and one that is similar to all other auto trannys (suction filter which requires pan removal to change). I agree there is no EASY fix to this problem which is really no big deal, heck we only pay 30K+ for these vehicles. I think there needs to be a check valve (or flapper valve) somewhere between the coverter housing and front support module to prevent the oil draining from the directional flow control valve to the pan. I haven't had it for about five months now but when I did have it I simply moved the shift selector from reverse to low twice and it got me moving again, I think this directs the flow the fastest from the pan back into the flow control module.
Regards
ndared1
"The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition."
What's funny is that it is the acceptable rate up to 36,000 miles at which your warranty expires. Does that mean it becomes unacceptable once that happens?.....hmmmm..
File In Section: 06 - Engine/Propulsion System
Bulletin No.: 01-06-01-011
Date: March, 2001
INFORMATION
Subject:
Information on Engine Oil Consumption Guidelines
Models:All 1996-2001 Passenger Cars and Gasoline Powered Light Duty Trucks Under 8500 LB GVW
This bulletin is being revised to add Model Years 2000 and 2001. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 76-60-04A (Section 6 - Engine).
All engines require oil to lubricate and protect the load bearing and internal moving parts from wear including cylinder walls, pistons and piston rings. When a piston moves down its cylinder, a thin film of oil is left on the cylinder wall. During the power stroke, part of this oil layer is consumed in the combustion process. As a result, varying rates of oil consumption are accepted as normal in all engines.
Oil Consumption
The accepted rate of oil consumption for engines used in the vehicles referenced is 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi). This rate only applies to personal use vehicles, under warranty, maintained in accordance with the appropriate maintenance schedule, with less than 58,000 km (36,000 mi), or 80,450 km (50,000 mi) for Cadillac, driven at legal speeds in an unloaded (for trucks) condition.
Many factors can affect an owner's concern with oil consumption. Driving habits and vehicle maintenance vary from owner to owner. Thoroughly evaluate each case before deciding whether the vehicle in question has abnormal engine oil consumption.
Gasket and External Leaks
Inspect the oil pan and engine covers for leakage due to over-tightened, damaged, or out of place gaskets. Inspect oil lines and fittings for signs of leakage.
Improper Reading of the Oil Level Indicator (Dipstick)
Verify that the dipstick tube is fully seated in the block. When checking the oil level, make sure the dipstick is wiped clean before taking an oil level reading and fully depress the dipstick until the shoulder bottoms out on the dipstick tube. The dipstick should be the proper part number for the engine/vehicle that is being checked.
Not Waiting Long Enough After Running Engine to Check Oil Level
The vehicle should be allowed to sit for at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine has been shut off, before taking an oil level reading to assure the oil has had enough time to drain back into the crankcase. In order to ensure accurate results, the temperature of the oil should be close to the same temperature as the last time the oil level was checked.
Improper Oil Fill After an Oil Change
Following an oil change, verify that the proper amount and type of oil was put in the engine and that the oil level on the dipstick is not above the full mark or below the add marks. Refer to the Owner's Manual or Service Manual for information on recommended oil quantity, viscosity, and quality.
High Speed or High RPM Driving
Continuous driving at high speeds/high RPMs may increase oil consumption. Because this may not always be an everyday occurrence, it is hard to determine exactly how much the oil economy will be affected.
Towing or Heavy Usage
Towing a trailer will increase oil consumption and may cause oil consumption to fall below the normal accepted rate referenced in this bulletin for an unloaded vehicle in a personal use application. Large frontal area trailers will further increase the work required from the engine, especially at highway speeds, and thus increases the rate of oil consumption.
Crankcase Ventilation System
Verify that the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is operating properly. Incorrect PCV valves, blockages, restrictions, or damage to the PCV system can result in increased oil use.
Oil Dilution (Fuel and Water)
On vehicles that are usually driven short distances, less than 8 km (5 mi), especially in colder weather, unburned fuel and condensation generated from cold engine operation may not get hot enough to evaporate out of the oil. When this occurs, the dipstick may indicate that the oil level is over-full. Subsequent driving on a trip of sufficient length to enable normal engine operating temperature for 30 minutes or more, in order to vaporize excess moisture and fuel, may give the customer the impression of excessive oil consumption.
Engine Temperature
If an engine is run at overheated temperatures (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual) for more than brief periods, oil will oxidize at a faster than normal rate. In addition, gaskets may distort, piston rings may stick, and excessive wear may result. Verify that all cooling system components are in proper working order.
Engine Wear
Piston scuffing, excessive piston-to-wall clearance, tapered or out of round cylinders, worn, damaged or improperly installed valve guides, seals and piston rings will all cause an increase in oil consumption.
Measurement of Oil Consumption
Engines require a period of time to BREAK IN so that moving parts are properly seated. Therefore, oil economy should not be tested until the vehicle has accumulated at least 6400 km (4000 mi). An exception would be allowed only if an engine is reported to be using more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 1600 km (1000 mi).
1. Verify that the engine has no external leaks. Repair as necessary.
2. Verify that the engine is at normal operating temperature (see Owner's Manual or Service Manual).
3. Park the vehicle on a level surface.
4. Wait at least 5 minutes (20 minutes for the 3.4 L LQ1), after the engine is shut off, before checking the oil level to make sure that most of the oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase.
5. Verify that the oil level is at, but not above, the full mark on the dipstick, and that the proper viscosity and quality oil are being used as recommended in the Owner's Manual.
6. Record the vehicle mileage, date, and exact oil level on the form included in this bulletin.
7. Ask the customer to verify the oil level, each time the vehicle is fueled, following steps 1-6 and return the vehicle to the dealership if the oil level is found at or below the add mark, 0.946 liter (1 qt) low. If the oil level remains above the add mark, the customer should continue to operate the vehicle and verify the engine oil level until 3200 km (2000 mi) has accumulated before returning to the dealership for a final evaluation.
8. If the final evaluation shows that the engine uses more than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), follow the published symptom diagnostics as described in the appropriate Service Manual. If the oil consumption test shows that the engine uses less than 0.946 liter (1 qt) in 3200 km (2000 mi), explain to the customer that their engine meets the guidelines for oil consumption.
If you can please email with details or post.
I am in the pre arbitration process with BBB, and need some more evidence to support my claim.
thanks
1st 5,000 miles 1 quart, 2nd 5,000 miles 1 and half quarts, 3rd 5,000 miles 2 quarts
have talked to other owners with the same engine, about 1/3 of them have the same problem
(so not a normal thing for this engine)
one gm mechanic told me they replaced the piston rings on a 8.1L and it fixed the problem
still no answers from gm
really like the truck and would do it all over again, but dont like to worry about my oil level every day
thanks for any input
Ray T.
Now for the good news: I have a 2000 Silverado LS SWB, 2500, 4 door, 4x4. LOVE IT! Thus far at 13,000 miles I have had no problems whatsoever. I changed the engine oil at 1500 miles and went to Amsoil. I haven't experienced any engine knock, and at 5000 I went to Mobil 1 oil, still sounds good. I put DeeZee running boards on the day that I bought it. Keeps sides clean....
rhornsby
I have a 2002 2500HD 4x4 diesel with an Allison tranny. I hear a whining noise when I decelerate. The noise is there all the way down to about 25-30 MPH. I located two service bulletins regarding rear axle noise but it may not be the same problem I an having. www/alldata.com had 2 bulletins (rear axle clunk, bump, squawk noise and 1 for rear axle lubricant recommendations).
I understand that it is a heavy duty truck with larger/stronger gears but it is loud enough to hear it over the diesel engine (only when decelerating). Thanks in advance for your help. Great discussion board by the way!
I noticed a tire might have been a little low so I pulled up to air hose and looked at sidewall before airing and couldn't beleive my eyes when I saw 80lbs. psi max.
I am running LT265/75R16 E rated REVO tires. I have done some research and am still confused.
I don't haul too often so I guess 80lbs all the way around is too much, but can't find any 'truth'. Thanks in advance for pointing me in the right direction.
The placard is going to list the original tire size and the proper inflation pressure for that size. It also lists the rim size.
There are several versions of a 2002 Silverado 2500HD. and the inflation pressures will vary a bit, BUT they all have 6.5" wide rims. An LT265/75R16 requires a minimum of a 7" wide rim, so the tires are too big for the rim. This is probably cause wear problems (center wear).
Hope this helps.
Just bought a 05 Silverado 4x4 2500 crew cab and comes with the 4:10 gears. I want to change the gears to 3:73. Is this doable? I just bought the Diablo Predator so that I can correct the speedo. Since I have a 4x4, would I need 2 sets of gears?
Thanks for the info!
Karl
My question is, has anyone had this happen to them, or heard of it happening. I'm also wondering - is this a manufacturer's defect? If so, in my opinion, I should not have to pay the full price.
Thanks for any help/feedback on this.
If the 2004LD is a 3/4 ton truck then what makes the 2004LD a "light duty" truck versus a 2004HD that by definition is a "heavy duty" truck?
Is the difference in the "springs and shocks" or is there more to it.
I plan to pull a 32ft 5th wheel. Is the 2500LD too light for safe and easy towing?
Not dumb just can't get to specs.
Salazar