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Buick Rendezvous Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • tdaustin27tdaustin27 Member Posts: 2
    I have seen a few messages from others sharing woes about their rendevous. I am at the end of my patience with mine. My husband and I bought the suv 3 almost 4 years ago used and for awhile had no problems. Since my husband deployed 11 months ago, the rendevous has been in the shop 6 times!. The first was to replace the head gasket. Then a fuel gauge that kept reading full when the tank was empty. That resulted in a replacment fuel tank because I noticed it was leaking when I brought it home. Then the fuel pump needed to be replaced. I had the 60,000 mile tune up done 5 months ago and now it is in the shop because the transmission is blown and one of the computre chips is fried. I can only thank God that we bought the extended warranty with the vehicle and that all I have paid is the deductible. The warranty company is not happy though. I know this is not normal wear and tear and I know that I have not done anything extreme with this vehicle. I want to know if anyone else has had problems like these and if anyone knows of any recalls on rendevous other than the one about the rear hatch. Thanks :confuse:
  • exhaustedexhausted Member Posts: 21
    There was another recall on wheel bearings but only if you were under 100k KM (60k miles). My bearings have been done 3 times each side. Just wait until the manifold rusts out (if you live in an area that salts the roads in the winter). Also Torque tube (awd) will fail & power steering will groan constantly. Approx another $5k in repairs. You only have just over 60k Miles on her so my advice is to dump it & hopefully you can use the ext warranty as a selling point. Take the loss & move on... :lemon: :lemon: :lemon:
  • tdaustin27tdaustin27 Member Posts: 2
    No salt on the roads here. Are deep in the south in Georgia. Have 74,600 on the car and only 400 miles to go til the warranty is gone. The dealership where we bought it has another warranty for $1900 for 2 years or 30,000 mile more, but it does not cover what the mastertech warranty that we have on it nowdoes. As for the power steering groaning, already doing that in tight turns. Maybe I should have that fixed alog with everything else now and rally drive the warranty company nuts!
  • alman72alman72 Member Posts: 3
    An oil leak had dribbled some oil into the conduit that the ABS harness is in, and I am told that the oil surrounding the wire caused the signal going to the ABS computer to vary (due to resistance), activating the AWD. After cleaning the harness off, the problem went away! go figure :confuse:
  • regalluvr2regalluvr2 Member Posts: 114
    tdaustin27,
    Sorry to hear of all your problems.Just go back to page 1 on here and start reading forward.You will see every problem known to mankind with the 2002 Buick RDV's.When you get a bad one theres just no end to the problems.At least your wheel bearings havent gone bad yet,

    Lots of us licked our wounds and dumped our 2002 Buick RDV's a long time ago.Our 2002 CXL loved to eat BCM's.It turned in to a 2004 Toyota Highlander which has been trouble free so far.

    Good Luck.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    I'm not saying any of your experiences are false. Just conveying that our 2007 with 10,000 miles so far has been trouble free. Yes I realize that it is still a very young vehicle, but I just wanted to post a GOOD Rendezvous experience. My wife and I plan on keeping it past 100k miles.

    Loving it so far! Great on gas, so much cargo room, very comfortable.

    Brian
  • clevelanderclevelander Member Posts: 1
    My husband and I have a chance to buy a 2003 Rendezvous. It looks like there are so many complaints about it. Is there anyone that is happy with this car?
  • chuckie2chuckie2 Member Posts: 16
    I have an '04 RDV with 103,933 miles on it and the only problem I have had was the wheel bearing which was taken care of under warranty. The only other issue is the lights in the steering wheel controls...I do a lot of night driving so I expected them to wear out. My dealer replaced the bulbs free of charge. I drive this vehicle everyday plus once or twice a month to cleveland or nyc and never has it broken down. I am trading up to the Enclave in March, but other than the fact I just want a new vehicle, I would continue driving this until it dies. I keep up with regular scheduled maintenace.
  • dlconroydlconroy Member Posts: 5
    I am having the same problem with our 2005! We have had nothing but problems with this thing since the day we bought it. I too wanted to just turn it back in and get an Enclave. That's what I wanted in the beginning. How did you start out with this if you don't mind? I have had it with this car! I am afraid to drive it. :mad:
  • cdyoungcdyoung Member Posts: 9
    My 05 AWD RDV is a great vehicle with deteriorating fuel economy. With less then 22K on the car the fuel economy seems to get worse with every tank. I have the 3.6 ltr and was getting near 18 when it was broken in and now get around 14, what's up? I really enjoy the car and don't share the misery most of the people who post have.
  • cdyoungcdyoung Member Posts: 9
    Does anyone know where the fuel filter is loacated on the 3.6 ltr engine. I searched under the car during my last oil change and couldn't find it. I have an 05 RDV Ultra
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Not sure where the filter is on the vous, I have heard its sorta near the drivers seat (underneath vehicle of course) in the Pontiac version, but haven't been there nmyself yet. Just follow the fuel lines from the tank until you find it. (BTW you do have to be careful not to get an eyeful if you do change it, have something ready to catch what comes out of it). For the milage thing, it may jsut be winter fuel and colder temps (depending on where you are), my vehicles are dropping now also.
  • regalluvr2regalluvr2 Member Posts: 114
    Brian,
    It was the 2002-2003 RDV's that had most of the bad problems.The 2004-2007 RDV's were much better.Our 2002 CXL AWD was roomy and rode and handled great.However,it was underpowered and the reliability wasnt there.

    If anyone is buying a used 2002-2003 Rendezvous from a dealer,please call the former owners to see why they traded it off.Theres far too many problem ones out there.They had numerous problems such as BCM's,AC Condensors,Intake And Head Gaskets,Wheel Bearings,Stalling And Refusing To Restart,and much more if you got the wrong one.I've seen some 2002's have up to a dozen different problems.

    I wish you well with your 07 RDV.
  • pkudrnapkudrna Member Posts: 1
    I just found this post. My 02 Rendezvous is doing exactly the same thing except that since I don't have AWD my traction control and ABS lights periodically flash on. Several days ago my car woudn't start and seemed like a weak battery. After 12 hours coming home form work I tried starting again and it started with exhibiting any problem or apparent battery weakness. This am I tired starting again and I heard a "click and all lights and power including dome and headlights died. The batt is 2 years old, the alternator , plugs and cables are 2 months old. I know someone stated that it couldn't be a BCM but I am at a loss and don't have the money to take it to the dealer. Any help would be apprecieated. Thanks , PK
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    Sounds like it may be battery cable connection problem. I had a similar problem with my Pontiac version. Check my post #34 in Pontiac Aztek starting issues topic.

    For the TC/ABS lights , I would fix the other problem first and see if its still an issue, anything electrical could potentialy be affected by weak current
  • scolvin1scolvin1 Member Posts: 1
    We are also more or less happy owners. We bought our 2003 Rendezvous from a dealer in Sept w/73,000 miles. We didn't find this website until after the purchase and we were both very worried. HOWEVER, we used what we read on this site and knew what to look for. We did have to replace the BCM unit shortly after purchasing but my husband ordered the part straight from Buick, ordered a BCM unit for a 2007 Rendevous and we haven't had a lick of problems since. We need to have the back up sensors cleaned so they work properly. We immediately (after reading this site) had the transmission fluid completely changed out to the "better stuff" - whatever that means to a women! LOL - and replaced one ABS sensor (about 120 bucks).

    For the price we paid for the car and the repairs that we did , we are still under book value for the car. I love the way it drives. Gas mileage isn't bad. Comfortable for kids. No extra room when seating more than 4 but what crossover does?

    We are aware of it's problems, but for real, research ANY car/make/model and you find just as much if not more......

    We are happy
  • swimswanswimswan Member Posts: 4
    I slipped on the ice and hit a parked trailer with my '05, and I was able to drive away, didn't relize the damage until later as it was dark, but after driving about 7 miles on an icy highway, I got an error message that came up that my vechicle was "shutting down" and I lost total control and it went off into the ditch and hit hard. Has anyone ever had there car shut down like that?? I am just glad I didn't get too hurt, but also my airbags did not go off at all when I hit the ditch hard.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    You hit a trailer? What kind of trailer?

    I've been in frontal accidents before. To get past the front bumper, grills, etc. takes a very strong impact. You couldn't have done all that damage and not realized you had damaged your car, even if it was dark. If it was dark, how did you drive, since your headlights would have been destroyed??

    But until you break through the bumper etc., you aren't getting to anything engine related that would make the car turn off.

    Now if you DID break through all that, your air bags would have gone off when you hit the trailer.

    If you had broken the radiator, you would have gotten a low coolant message WAY before any disasters engine shutdown. Further, I've been a GM man for life and have never heard of this "shutting down" message. Where did it display this?

    Finally when any engine shuts off, you still retain some braking ability and the steering wouldn't lock.

    Care to share some more details and explain what really happened?
  • swimswanswimswan Member Posts: 4
    thanks for your interest. I hit a tow truck trailer that was parked on the wrong side of the road when I slipped on the ice and it hit the corner of the vehicle and my left headlight was damaged. The grill and the body of my car looked fine, but the underneath of the bumber got destroyed when I hit the ditch 6-7 miles later on the highway when my car totally shut down. I could see because the right headlight was ok. It was a hard corner impact to my car...but I really don't know why the shutdown message came up in the center of the dash where all the other messages come up. I was totally shook up and driving very slow after I hit that trailer and was just trying to keep on the road as it was extremely icy. Can the body shop where I had it towed be able to check any computer messages that came up on the vehicle?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    hit a parked trailer with my '05, and I was able to drive away

    Of course, you drove away after you exchanged information with the owner of the trailer or filed a police report? That would have been a good time to inspect your Rendezvous thoroughly.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • hydrochiefhydrochief Member Posts: 15
    I recently bought an 03 Rendevous; does anyone know where to find Chilton or Haynes type repair manuals for this vehicle?
  • hydrochiefhydrochief Member Posts: 15
    I recently bought an 03 Rendevous...
    There is a mysterious leak. I've found older threads talking about the roof rack or sun roof needing to be sealed better. Is there any newer information about this? We can hear a dripping when we just get in the car during the rain, and the front passenger carpet is wet.
  • hydrochiefhydrochief Member Posts: 15
    I recently bought an 03 Rendevous...
    The driver door doesn't set right. It howls as we go down the road, and when it rains hard some water drips in from the top. According to carfax this car was never in an accident. Any ideas???
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    So what kind of RDV do you own? What year? What trim? Is it AWD? Which engine?

    Back to the unfortunate situation........

    A body shop may or may not have the needed scan tool to pull up OBD codes that might have been set. Depends on how high tech & modern they are. I would say most will not have the tool.

    So if the extent of the damage when hitting the trailer was one headlight, that means the other incident would be totally unrelated, you just didn't do enough damage to make your engine quit on you.

    I truly feel bad for what happened to you. It sounds like you were first caught off guard, driving too fast for conditions, and had a minor accident. But then you didn't learn your lesson unfortunately, and still drove too fast for "extremely icy" roadways. As I said before, when an engine shuts down in any car, there is plenty of brake reserve to bring the car to a stop if you simply remain calm and slowly brake. And the steering wheel may feel hard to turn but the car is steerable too. Just remember next time to let the car coast to a stop or use your brakes gently, steering gently as well. Any jerking of the wheel or slamming on the brakes can send you sliding.

    Please be more careful out there.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    The best way to diagnose the leak is to compare the driver's side and passenger side. First, with the doors closed, look at how your passenger's door lines up with the rest of the car. Note where it meets at the top, how big the gaps are in front at the fender, and at the rear of the door edge where it meets the back door. Then the bottom gap as well.

    If all four sides are "gapped evenly" between passenger and driver's side, next I'd check the weather stripping. With both doors open, compare all the rubber, noting exactly how it's sitting, where it starts/ends, which way it angles, etc.

    Try also standing at the front of your car by the headlight. Look down the side of the car. Does the door seem flush with the rest of the body panels?

    This should get you started. Of course, if you bought it at a dealer recently, there might still be a warranty that you can take advantage of.

    My bet would be on a worn piece of weatherstripping somewhere, and the leak point should help you figure out which one. If you think you found the bad piece but just aren't QUITE sure, when the strip you suspect is dry, apply a thick coat of white petroleum jelly. Go for a drive to re-create the howling and/or drip, and see if it has diminished. The jelly would temporarily seal up the area, at least in part.
  • hydrochiefhydrochief Member Posts: 15
    bxd, thanks for the quick response. There is a definite gap happening. Viewing from the front, the top of the drivers door has a noticable difference than the passenger, almost as if the door were flat vice curved to meet the roof.

    I had the used-dealer reset the door twice, but no joy ... and the weather stripping seems fine. I think this door was taken by the wind and forced open once upon a time, but I've looked at the hinges and they don't seem adversly bent.

    Have you heard of a way to maybe shim the door so the leading edge is more flush with the frame?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    You could test the seal using masking tape placed cross-wise over the seal in various spots. If you can't pull the tape out when the door is shut, it's probably sealing pretty well. Or a business card or some such.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    If the door is clearly sticking out, I bet he'll be able to pull the tape through no problem.

    I haven't taken a close look at the hinges on my 2007 RDV to see how they are setup. But I think you are on the right track with the hinges.

    If they are bent just a tiny bit, too little for the eye to see, it will translate to a great angle difference at the door seams. If you can get any recourse from the dealer, I would insist they replace the hinges.

    Otherwise, take it to a respected BODY SHOP in your area, they deal with this kind of thing all the time.
  • cruzakcruzak Member Posts: 11
    My first time to do tire rotation by myself, bought a torque wrench but I don't know how much lb/ft should I apllied on wheel nuts. Need your advice, thank you :)
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/brochure/info/tmpInfoWheelTorque.jsp#bu- ick

    100 lb / ft. And as you'll note by glancing over that chart, 100 is a great choice if you're ever caught in a situation, changing a wheel on a car you're not familiar with.

    The most important thing is to tighten them in a star pattern and make a couple passes. On the first time through the star, I only tighten them till they feel snug. Then the second time through I tighten to the spec. This makes sure the wheel sits flat and even on the rotor hat.
  • 442455442455 Member Posts: 64
    100 ft lbs is correct, that is listed in the service manual for the Rendezvous. The way I was taught is to do the star pattern, but to do it in three passes. First at 33 ft lbs, second at 66 ft lbs, and third at 100 ft lbs. If you have wheel covers with the plastic lug nuts that hold the cover to the wheel, those only get tightened to 27 INCH POUNDS (just a little over 2 ft lbs)

    When storing your torque wrench, set it at around 20-25 percent of the maxium limit. In other words, if you have a 100 ft lb wrench, set it at 20-25 ft lbs and leave the "lock" UNLOCKED in stored condition. This prevents the springs and other internal parts from going out of calibration or "setting".

    Perhaps a bit of overkill with the three passes, but I have worked on many peces of equipment in the nuclear industry, and this is the proper way to torque nuts and bolts, unless the equipment maker stated otherwise.
  • sunny16sunny16 Member Posts: 3
    we have a 2002 rendezvous going on 5 years with nothing wrong. All of a sudden we have to every morning we have to jump start it. We have had everything checked and in the dealers shop and they can't find anything wrong with it. Maybe electrical. Thats why i was wondering when moosie stated she or he had problems with electrical if she found out what the problem was. We have shut everything off to see where the draw is coming from, bought a new battery, nothing works so we just hook it up to that thing tee,hee (don't know the name of the thing, Im a woman who doesn't know cars) but my hubby does. I'm checking online for him. I'ts very frustrating. To finish my sentence we hook it up every night so it starts in the morning but that is no guarantee what will happen when we are far from home and have to jump it. Anyone with this problem. by the way our contract just expired
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Sounds like an electrical drain as you probably already figured out. These can be tough to trace unfortunately. I would first double check every electrical device after leaving the car for the night visually: dash completely off, all interior lights are off, etc. I'm guessing you've done that... so there's gotta be a module of some kind putting a continuous drain on the battery.

    Probably something you have to take it in for unless someone here can identify a common failure point for these symptoms.
  • iggypunkiggypunk Member Posts: 1
    I had the same thing happen to me. The wind whipped it open and caused the drive side door to spring really bad. I had it reset but now there is a very noticeable wind noise coming from the door and a very large gab between the driver side front and the driver side back door. I hope to get it fixed, but I am afraid that they wont be able too. If anyone has any solutions to this that would be awesome.
  • cruzakcruzak Member Posts: 11
    Thank You for the advice
  • cruzakcruzak Member Posts: 11
    Thank You for the advice
  • sukses01sukses01 Member Posts: 3
    I had a flat tire last night and when I went to buy a new one I was told I need to buy all four because if I didn't I could damage my car. Does that make sense?
  • cwebercweber Member Posts: 10
    Over X-mas my wife and I drove 12 hours to her parents and when we got there I found out that my 02 Rend used 4qts of oil. This has happend the last two trips there. So I did what and mechanic would do, I checked the plugs so sign of burning oil. I drove the vehical about 10 miles and parked in my garage and left it sit till it cooled then looked to see if any oil leaked on to the concret and there was nothing. I also checked the air cleaner to see if I was getting any blow by no evidence of any. I also checked the exhast just incase it was burning oil and some how the plugs just werent showing because it was such a small amount and as I suspected no indication in the exhaust that it was burning oil.I also checked the PCV and it was working properly. I then proceded to take it to the local chev dealer and they found nothing on there diagnostics equip to indicate that it was using oil. I am very mechanically inclined and have been servicing my own vehicals since I was 14. I am 28 now and in all the years that I have serviced vehicals never have I come across anything that I cant diagnose my self from listening or from past experiences than my current problem. DOES ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS. This is the most frusterateing problem I have ever encounterd with cars. :confuse:
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Hope we can help you... first some questions.

    1. Is the terrain the same on the whole 12 hour trip? Or is it, for example, flat the first 3 hours, then mountainous for 3 hours, then flat for 6?

    2. I assume this is the 3.4 OHV V6. How many miles? AWD?

    3. Do you REALLY mean you were down 4 whole quarts? Because the whole crankcase capacity is only 4.5? Not doubting you, just asking for clarification.

    4. Did you look at the coolant level? Normal?
  • cwebercweber Member Posts: 10
    Well we drive through the eastern side of ND through MN on I 94 into Wisconsin and end up just south west of Ripon WI 30 min. So its pretty much exactly how you described it. Yes its the 3.4, a little over 95k, yes AWD, and finally yes 4qt. Coolant level normal. I Know Im only 28 but I have had 14 years of experience working on vehicles and never once have I run into this. Most of what I know about vehicles I taught my self from trial and error, along with asking a local VW mechanic. I rebuilt my first engine which was a 1600 VW engine and attempted to mount it on a Go-cart lol and FAILED, but it ran like knew. sold it for 800 back the the mechanic that gave it to me. So I naturally ruled out every thing that I could except for the rear intake manifold, which I have read in my research that REND ar notorious for. So next week it will be at the dealership.
  • ragerrlragerrl Member Posts: 6
    I recently had the head gasket done in our Rendezvous. It ran great well at least for two hours. Then the lights went out dash and all and it was like the thing went throught the whole start up process. It beeped the lights came back on the fasten seatbelt light flashed. It only happens when you have been driving for an hour or so, and only flickers off then back on. I figured they forgot to connect a ground or there was a short. They told me they needed to put in a new fuse box and it would cost around $600. Since I just gave them $2000 for the head gasket, I said no and have still been driving it. It is fine for close distances like the work commute, but after an hour it goes through the same process. If I turn the lights on instead of having them on auto they will stay on and everything else will go out and come back on. Ground or BCM??? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!!!
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    If I'm reading this correctly, it sounds like the problem started shortly after service for head gasket. I'm thinking it is likely they would have messed with/ wiggled underhood fuse box in the process and perhaps lossened something up in the process. I would try checking the connections to that to ensure they are tight and also perhaps re-seat all the fuses to ensure proper connection (you might want to remove negative cable to battery when you do this and re-connect after)
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    If you lost 4 qts out of 4.5 qts and finished your trip, you need to count yourself very lucky.

    The rear intake manifold is a good thought - BUT the oil has to go somewhere, period. If you crawled underneath and everything was dry, my only thought is that it could have been dripping from the rear valve cover or intake manifold, unto a hot exhaust, and burning away. BUT, again, that would create smoke and smell bad. Perhaps on the highway you wouldn't notice with the wind carrying it away but anytime you would have pulled off the highway for food or gas, you would have smelled oil burning badly at the rate you were going through.

    I guess the dealer is the next stop. I'd be a little curious to get underneath and take a look at the top side of the exhaust, see if there's any signs.
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    Check the fuse box connections like the other poster said. Also check the battery connections themselves. And keep your eye out for anything banged up/cracked - just in case they did it, they ought to pony up for a fix.
  • kts1kts1 Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I am considering to buy a 2002 RDV CXL AWD and I would like to know what you think about it. It is hard to make a decision based on the testimonials on this forum. Most of you say that you are having many problems with the cars and the dealerships, but besides that the feeling I have is that you don't regret for the choice because of the features, the comfort, etc. Is that right?

    I drove the RDV for about 20 minutes and I loved it! The mirrors are huge, but I think I can get used to it. But 20 minutes is not enough to make a decision about an investment like that. The price I got is pretty good (around $7500), one owner, I have the maintenance history and the autocheck. It has about 97000 miles on it.

    On the maintenance history there are some things that is hard to know the meaning ( I don't know anything about cars). For example:
    116 miles - NC PDI RECHECK :confuse:
    4656 miles - BODY-ELECTRICAL, BODY-ELEC. MISC1, BODY-ELEC. MISC2 and there is a message "DO NOT USE!!" :surprise:
    11208 miles - BODY-ELECTRICAL
    19387 miles - BODY-TRIM, CAMPAIGN
    26000 miles - REPLACE PCV VALVE
    31544 miles - INJECTOR SERVICE, DECARBONIZE VALVE, BODY-TRIM, BODY-ELECTRICAL, BODY-ELEC. MISC1
    36628 miles - BODY-ELECTRICAL
    41376 miles - BODY ELECTRICAL
    44964 miles - BODY-TRIM
    48637 miles - REPLACE PCV VALVE, BODY-TRIM, BODY-TRIM MISC1
    49105 miles - BODY-TRIM
    52422 miles - ATF FLUSH
    57309 miles - ENGINE--COOLING, BRAKE-RELINE/REPAIR
    66856 miles - INJECTOR SERVICE, DECARBONIZE VALVE, ENGINE--COOLING, BRAKE-RELINE/REPAIR
    73976 miles - BODY-TRIM, BRAKE-RELINE/REPAIR
    95386 miles - ENGINE-ELECTRICAL, A/C REPAIR
    96584 miles - CHARGING SYSTEM
    96799 miles - ENGINE--MINOR, REPLACE PCV VALVE, U.C. SAFETY/LOF :confuse: , DETAIL-USED, CHIP REPAIR, WINDSHIELD REPAIR.

    As you can see, electrical and trim are there several times. The same with PCV valve. There are more things that I didn't describe...
    I have the last owner's phone but I couldn't find him at home yet.
    I'm sorry for typing all the details, but I really need to know if it is a good idea to buy this car and I can't afford to spend money on repairs all the time :sick: . The dealership will give me only 3000 miles / 3 months of powertrain warranty. And I have the option of paying around $1400 for an extended full warranty for 3 years/ 50000 miles.

    I would appreciate any advice from you about that.

    KtS1
  • bxdbxd Member Posts: 186
    NC PDI RECHECK - No Charge, Pre Delivery Inspection, Re-Check (they just went over the car a 2nd time before the first buyer took it home)

    The "BODY-electrical" could be anything, wiring problems, BCM, etc.

    BODY-TRIM is probably a piece of molding or insulation that wasn't quite right, and the fact it was a "campaign" means probably nothing was even wrong with your particular RDV, but GM decided to update that part on all RDVs.

    Replacing a PCV valve every once in a while is normal. So is flushing the Automatic Transmission Fluid, decarbonizing the throttle body, FI treatment, brake job, etc.

    Nothing on there really scares me. I would insist the dealer do an ATF flush and a cooling system flush, they're both due around 100k miles. I hope the brakes and tires are in reasonably good shape.

    Does the $1400 warranty really cover everything for 3 yrs / 50k miles? At what deductible? That seems like a good deal, if it's full warranty and low deductible. If it's powertrain only, it's still probably worth it.

    How many miles a year do you drive, and, how long would you want to keep this car?

    Brian D.
    07 RDV CXL
  • kts1kts1 Member Posts: 2
    I don't know the details about the warranty yet. He didn't say anything about deductible. He said that I have to choose what I want to be covered on the warranty and that it goes from $800 up to $1400 for 3 years or 50000 miles. There is an option for 5 years / 100000 miles too but we didn't talk about it yet.

    My budget will be really tight with the car payment and full coverage insurance, so I don't want surprises. And I'm new to the US so It is kind of hard to get good rates on financing. I want to keep this car as long as I can 3 to 5 years. I don't think I will drive even 1000 miles in a month.

    I have the best references about the dealership. They are HUGE here. But sometimes cars are just bad...

    I have a 97 Pontiac Grand Am and one day I drove to work and it was working great. When I was leaving 8 yours later the car simply didn't start. The mechanic said it is the timing belt tensioner. It is expensive to fix and I don't want to put more money on it. The car itself worth about $500 in a trade-in (if it is working fine).

    It is time to get a good car.
    I would feel better about this car if I hear from owners of the 2002 RDV that it is a good buy.
  • cwebercweber Member Posts: 10
    Hi
    Im glad you have taken the time to do research before purchasing a new vehicle, very smart move. It sounds like a good buy, and I agree with bxd. The the things listed are nothing to worry about. But just in case I would take the car for another test drive and go to a local mechanic that has a good reputation and have him check it over very from top to bottom.

    If you do take the vehicle to a local mechanic and it turns out that every thing is in proper working condition and I mean every thing. For example: Rotors, diagnostic, Brakes etc.. It might cost around $150 or so to have this done but it would be worth it. I would also consider purchasing the 100k powertrain warranty if you plan on keeping the vehicle for 3 to 5 years, since it has close to 100k on it already.

    When I purchased my 02 RDV, I only took the 50k extended warranty, and after reading all the problems many people have had I wished I would have purchased the 100k.

    My RDV had 79k when I purchased it. Im at 94k and I have owned it for only 8 months, and before the year is over I will have put 20k on it. I realize that you wont be doing that much driving but, you never know whats going to happen 6 mo to a year down the road. Your curciumstances could change considerably like mine did.
  • dionnecdionnec Member Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 RDV CXL with the 3.6-liter DOHC engine. It is the fourth time that the engine looses power to a point that the last time i had to have it towed to the dealer. Nobody seem to be able to find the problem.. Can you help?

    Thanks :-)
  • lbatchelbatche Member Posts: 1
    LEFT FRONT BEARING AND HUB ASSEMBLY REPLACE AT 33940 MILES. RIGHT FRONT BEARING IS MAKING HOWL NOISE WHILE DRIVING 45738 MILES. HAS ANY ONE HAD THIS PROBLEM
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