Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
What is a "lemon"?
A new vehicle - no more than a year old and still under warranty - is a "lemon" if
* It has a serious defect the dealer can't fix in four tries, or
* It has one or many defects that prevent you from using it for 30 days or more (the 30 days need not be consecutive)
That has not happened to me with my Rendezvous, nor with anyone else I know who owns a Rendezvous. And, I am very familiar with lemons -- as I filed a lemon law suit against Isuzu, and won, in regards to a Rodeo that I owned.
I've consistently said throughout this thread that ALL makes and models of vehicles (including Honda and Toyota and Buick) have some lemons. That's the nature of mass production. My guess is that there are many, many fewer lemon Rendezvous than you may want to believe.
Still driving my 2002 Buick Rendezvous CXL, 76,000 miles. Owned it for 6 years this month. Still feel it is a safe, reliable vehicle. I would consider an Enclave for my next vehicle. Sorry if your experience was not as positive as mine.
I do have a ? though, of course since it's getting older, it needs to have some upkeep. I recently had the brakes changed...first time! and now it seems the ABS might be going out. Has anyone had issues with that?
Thanks!
Dave
How does the Buick LOOK with these tires? Don't they have raised white letters?
Picture?
How do you like the tires? I am considering them, but the raised white letter seem they would make the car look too utilitarian.
Seems like something with the torque converter lockup isn't working right (the overdrive engagement system).
Next time this happens, put the shifter in "3" for a minute. I bet your problem goes away.
When it's cruising at 2000, does everything seem normal? Can you lightly press the gas pedal and accelerate gently without a jump in RPMs? If so, that's probably good, probably means the transmission isn't slipping.
If it's only a couple weeks old and it came from a dealer, it probably still has some kind of warranty, I would quickly raise the issue to them and get it in. Problem obviously existed when you bought it. This is a good reason to take any used car for a LONG test drive before buying, and include all kinds of speeds. Better yet, ask to take it overnight.
Good luck, post what you find out.
Thanks
To rule out an electrical gremlin, next time it starts acting up, carefully pull over, shut off the engine, wait a few seconds and start back up. See if the problem continues.
Ultimately, the problem was there when you bought it, get the dealer involved quickly. The more time passes the less responsibility they will have (whether real or perceived).
Btw, it's a 2002 Rendezvous CXL with 45,000 miles.
I know you said the doors/windows/etc worked, but a better test would have been to either try to operate your power window and/or have someone watch the headlights WHILE you turn the key to try to start. If the window slowed to a crawl or the lights dimmed as you turned the key, that would explain "no click" - a very dead battery.
(Today's batteries tend to work just fine, and then one day, they're dead completely, unlike years ago where you'd tend to get a slow-crank that would warn you your battery was going out.)
Did you try a jump start? That would also rule-out a battery versus a switch.
I'm not saying it isn't the switch, but some easy troubleshooting tests would help confirm you aren't being taken advantage of.
Hope that helped!!!
I would guess an engine mount or the cross brace bar(s) on top of the engine. I would also check the "shock absorber" which is mounted in the front of the engine. If you have had all that work done on the cooling system, someone might have taken one of those items off, and not reinstalled them correctly, or forgot to tighten them up.
Don't know the history of the cooling system. Was the DexCool ever changed previously? Did it have the intake/exhaust manifold gasket leak(s)? Air might have entered the system at one time, and that just turns the DexCool to "mud". Not good on hoses, heater cores, thermostats, etc. Were chemicals ever added because of leaks? They can cause problems also.
Has a good cleaning and flushing of the cooling system been done? Is the sepentine belt tensioner tight, making sure the belt is not slipping? Is the water pump, which runs off the belt, in good shape? With all the work previously and recently done, was the cooling system "burped" correctly?
I know, alot of questions, but just some thoughts off the top of my head to see if anything helps you.
Where is the clicking noise coming from. Does it speed up or slow down in relationship with the speed of the vehicle? Does it stop after a while? Does it stop when making a left or right turn, and than start again?
More information please. Could be wheel bearings, brakes hanging up, bad half shaft axle bearings, etc.
Do you have ramps or know someone who does? Drive the car up on the ramps, put in park, set the parking brake. Then slide under to find the rattle. If you don't have ramps - since the Rendezvous is a fairly tall crossover you can still probably climb under the front corner and get a good idea where it's coming from.
Should be a very easy fix once you find the exact spot.
Was your moaning sound in the front or rear? Mine is sound like it is in the front. My mechanic has said it is the rack-n-pinion (sp?), but it hasn't fixed the problem. So, $1300 later I stil have it. This will be 4th time I've taken it back for them to look at. (Fortunately, they are not charging me any more.)
My friend has a problem with theirs in that it will not open - it is stuck shut.
Two days after this last trip, with no eng lights on, I took a hard u-turn through a dip, then heard a loud banging. A couple buddies took the oil pan loose (can't find info on how to get it off :mad: ) and discovered the #5 and #6 piston bearings are shot.
So I need a lower end rebuild; or drop in either a long or short block motor.
Anyone else had this problem? I couldn't find it through a search of the board.
Any advice as to which would be the best route, and why you think so?
If you have an AWD verson of the 2003, the factory 3.4L engine may feel "gutless" to you. In the newer years, Buik started using the 3.5 and 3.6L engines - due to large number of AWD folks complaining about "lack of power" under the hood.
Bottom line is.... Only you can decide to rebuild its existing 2003 RDV engine or replace with an engine that has more power. Or, trade your 2003 model in for a newer 3.6L AWD model.
Hope this helps - some how...
.
moaning noise in rear was torque tube @ 150k now needs replacing again @ 300k.
- we have replaced the pump-and it stilll starts and than stalls- have you had your proble answered yet? Can you help us?
Please reply