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Comments
I'd be interested in a good set of aftermarket rotors as well. When we bought the GLS used with 20k, the rotors were incredibly warped (I had the dealer install NEW ones as a condition of sale). Now on my GT, bought new, with 17k I'm noticing that my rotors are starting to warp. OEM elantra rotors are crap in my opinion and I would be interested in quality aftermarket parts too.
If this is weather-related, I can mention it's been in the 80s and humid, and we've had some rain in the past few days too -- but we've had this kind of weather before and my car has started fine in it anyway.
Anyone else have this issue at all?
Tell us more about hub centering, I'm now curious and interested. I have a GLS (steel wheels).
I mentioned in a previous post that I thought it might be possible for the rotor to be out of balance even though the surface is true and not vibrating under braking. If the vibration doesn't change when the tires are rotated that would seem to rule them out, as you've determined.
If I had your car, I'd try a pair of new rotors to see if anything changes. I haven't priced them for the Elantra, but I just put 2 on my daughter's Cavalier for $20 each (my labor).
I always demand at any tire place they tighten my
lugs do manufacture specifications.
Another way is if they are hot from excessive braking and you hit a large puddle of water, that quick temperature change can also cause warping.
ElantraSstan
And before we go off on the rust issue with Elantra rotors, I challenge anyone to name a production or aftermarket rotor that doesn't rust. I have seen Ford rotors rust all the way through to the vents! I suppose someone makes a high performance rotor of some composition that holds up longer, but not sure if I could or would buy them.
Jim
I posted on the Elantra Sedan section about my cabin filter (it's in) and K&N air filter (it's on order). A very happy 46K miles now on an '01 GLS 5-speed.
Also, any good comments about K&N Filters? Mine will arrive Friday. I am curious too about the re-oiling process.
------------------------------------------------
Someone made one from an electrostatic furnace filter. I like that idea. You dont have to pay $50. I know a parts manager that sells them for $35 shipped.
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"Also, any good comments about K&N Filters? Mine will arrive Friday. I am curious too about the re-oiling process."
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You might consider removing the air horn from the airbox when installing the K&N. Its in the top of the box and it pushes out from the inside. Here is a picture:
<http://img29.photobucket.com/albums/v86/xlr8also/ahorn.jpg>
The opening to the airbox is bigger afterwards and the sound is a tad more aggressive.
Cleaning the K&N is easy. Buy the reoiling/cleaning kit for $9.95. The oil in the kit is tinted red. when reoiling the filter (red oil) makes it easy to see:
1) with filter in hand remove large debree by hand or a VERY SOFT brush.
2) Spray cleaner solution on filter (saturate)
3) let sit for 5min
4) with hose nozzle removed for low pressure rinse filter in reverse flow (from clean to dirty side).
5) let sit in sun until dried
6) reoil filter using only K&N oil. Spray in long stripes until whole filter looks red (it will turn white after washing). Do not over oil.
Your done.
Could be your exhaust has either separated or rotted out. If you do a lot of short trips the latter could be the case.
For reference my 2001 GT has 22k miles on it. Most of it is 2.5 miles to and from work. My exhaust is still intact.
BTW: some of the exhaust system components are covered under warranty. Check with your dealer.
Hyundai service manager says it's ok...the airbag will still deploy. Not for nothing - when I see a car with that passenger airbag off sign illuminated crash, and the airbag deploys, then I'll believe them. Any suggestions for me? Thank you
---------------------------------------------
Technical Service Bulletin Group
90 - Electrical
Number
03-90-024
Subject
Date
2004 Elantra Supplemental Restraint System
12-2003
Model
Elantra 2004

2004 ELANTRA SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION:
This bulletin provides general information for the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) that is installed in 2004 MY Elantra vehicles produced beginning in July 2003.
The dual-stage front airbags provide two levels of inflation. A first stage inflation is provided for moderate impacts, while a second stage inflation is provided for more severe impacts.
In order to determine whether a first or second stage deployment should occur, the SRS uses several sensors to obtain information regarding the impact speed, seat belt usage and front seat position.
See the 2004 Elantra Shop Manual Restraints Section and the Owner's Manual for further information about supplemental restraint systems.
TABLE OF CONTENTS:
SRS COMPONENT LOCATIONS:
SRS COMPONENTS LISTING:
Driver Airbag (DAB):
The driver airbag is a dual output type. Airbag inflation is determined by the impact speed, seat belt usage and driver seat position.
Since the dual-stage front airbag system has two (2) circuits, the DAB has two (2) connectors for the circuits. The two connectors are of a different style and are not interchangeable.
Passenger Airbag (PAB):
The passenger airbag is also a dual output type. Airbag inflation is determined by the impact speed, seat belt usage and front passenger seat position.
Although the PAB is a dual-stage airbag (like the DAB), it has one connector (4 pins) for the two circuits.
The PAB connector is located behind the dash panel, directly above the HVAC blower motor.
Occupant Classification System (OCS):
The Occupant Classification System detects the presence of a passenger in the front passenger's seat and will turn off the front passenger's airbag under certain conditions. The driver's airbag and the driver's side impact airbag are not affected by the OCS.
The OCS is designed to detect the presence of a properly seated occupant (sitting upright with the seat in an upright position, centered on the seat cushion, with legs comfortably extended) and determine if the passenger's airbag and the passenger's side impact airbag should be enabled (may inflate) or not.
Located at the center of the instrument panel, the "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" warning lamp provides the passenger airbag status. If the front passenger seat is unoccupied or occupied by someone lighter than approximately 55 pounds (24.9 kg), the indicator "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" will be displayed and the front passenger's airbag and side impact airbag will be turned off and will not deploy in frontal or side impacts.
The OCS's force sensor resistor (FSR) cells are located in the front passenger seat. The FSR's resistance values decrease with increasing weight. When a person sits in the passenger seat, the resistance in each FSR cell will decrease relative to the load. When a predetermined number of these cells have been detected, the PAB circuitry is activated and the "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" lamp is turned off.
Weight Sensing Detector:
NOTE
Even if a vehicle is equipped with an OCS, do not install a child restraint system in the front passenger's seat.
Refer to the 2004 Elantra Owner's Manual section "Occupant Classification System" (Section 1 - pages 36-37) for more details.
Seat Track Position Sensor (STPS):
The Seat Track Position Sensor is located on the inside seat rail of both front seats. The STPS resistance changes depending on its location relative to a vane mounted on the seat rail. When the STPS is positioned over the vane (9 latching positions or more rearward of the forward-most position), its resistance is approximately 900 ohms. When it is positioned off of the vane (within 8 latching positions from the forward-most position), the sensor's resistance is approximately 300 ohms. (The STPS resistance values are measured without requiring power to the circuit).
In the event of a frontal impact severe enough to deploy the airbags, if one of the front seats is placed within 8 latching positions from the forward-most position (STPS off of the vane), only the first stage circuit will be activated for that airbag. If the front seat is placed 9 latching positions or more rearward of the forward-most position (STPS over the vane), then the SRS Control Module will deploy the bag with either the first or second circuit (depending on seat belt usage and the severity of the impact).
If an STPS condition prevents the SRSCM from determining the position of the seat, a Seat Track Sensor Fault Code is generated and the SRS warning light will illuminate until erased from the SRSCM memory by using a Hi-Scan Pro (the fault code will remain even if the condition has been corrected).
Front Impact Sensor (FIS):
The front impact sensor is mounted under the radiator support panel. The FIS aids in the airbag deployment decision.
Side Impact Airbag (SAB):
The side impact airbags (installed in both driver and passenger front seats) are the single output type. Side airbag equipped vehicles have "SRS AIRBAG" imprinted on the side of the front seats. The two satellite sensors are located at the bottom of the B-pillar, behind the seat belt pretensioner assembly.
NOTE
Any modification(s) of the seats may prevent proper operation of the side impact airbags when they are intended to deploy in a collision and can result in serious injury or death. See TSB# 01-90-012 ("Side Impact Airbags") for more details.
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL (SST) FOR DUAL-STAGE AIRBAG:
See 2004 Elantra Shop Manual, Restraints Section, page RT-6 for complete dual stage airbag SST information.
SSTs are available through SPX/Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233.
CAUTION
Review the safety rules noted in the shop manual before working on vehicles equipped with an airbag system.
DISPOSAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DUAL-STAGE AIRBAGS:
In a moderate-severity impact requiring deployment of only the first stage of the dualstage airbag, after the first stage of the dual-stage airbag has been deployed, the second stage will be deployed by the SRSCM after the collision event has been completed. Therefore, the airbag second stage does not need to be deployed intentionally for disposal after deployment of the first stage.
In a severe impact, both stages are deployed at the same time.
When scrapping a car or intentionally deploying airbag modules that are to be replaced, deploy each stage individually.
from autoweek:
"About 50 owners of the 2004 Hyundai Elantra have complained to the company that the passenger-side airbag system won't turn on when the passenger is seated.
Hyundai engineers in Korea have been studying the problem since February but don't know how to repair it. Hyundai Motor America recommends that owners of the affected cars tell passengers to sit in the back seat or else trade in their car and purchase a different model.
Hyundai would not identify its airbag supplier."
TELL PASSENGERS TO SIT IN THE BACK OR TRADE IT IN?!?!?!?!! What a brilliant suggestion.
Hmmmmmm...I wonder how many of these owners will trade their cars in for another Hyundai...
Fortunately for me, I drove an '02, so I don't have this particular issue to grapple with, but I do have a shimmy that seems unrepairable, a turn signal that sometimes sticks (will not self-cancel), two front speakers that are all but gone and an AC compressor that screams like a banshee every time it engages.
I've given up on fixing the shimmy - and I know at 46K, the dealer will be no help here. But I've tried on several visits to get the front speakers replaced under warranty - no luck. How difficult is this to do? Still, Metro Hyundai in Bloomington refuses to replace them because they still produce some sound - granted it's only at a very high volume (the remaining speakers are on the verge of blowing while these produce nary a garbled whisper). And, of course, they cannot reproduce the turn signal issue. Either that, or they have no idea how to fix it and that's the line they're giving me.
Do I hate my Elantra? Not at all. But what could be a fine ownership experience is all but ruined by horrible dealer service and complete lack of warranty support. Seriously, what good does a 60K bumper-to-bumper warranty do if the dealer/company is incapable or unwilling to fix anything under it?
The Elantra is one of the best compact cars out there in terms of design, I know firsthand because I drove them all before I bought mine. And value-wise, it's the best deal going.
But I can't imagine myself going back to Hyundai for my next car when the company tells its customers that the "fix" for their problems is buying a different car. Unbelievable.
the link for anyone interested:
www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat_code=c- arnews&loc_code=index&content_code=09310365
I like my Elantra's. Good, cheap (inexpensive) transportation. But with the lousy service and Hyundai's mind-numbingly dumb comments like buy a different car or sit in the back seat, I can't see myself returning for another Hyundai when time to replace them.
Other than that, she is running like a champ with almost 10K miles (since April).
-------------------------------------------
Fortunately for me, I drove an '02, so I don't have this particular issue to grapple with, but I do have a shimmy that seems unrepairable, a turn signal that sometimes sticks (will not self-cancel), two front speakers that are all but gone and an AC compressor that screams like a banshee every time it engages.
----------------------------------------
1) A shimmy thats seems unrepairable is a real problem and shame on Hyundai for not taking a more aggressive approach to this problem.
2) A turn signal that sometimes does not cancel is not enough to right a car off IMO. I've had that issue on countless cars.
3) I cant under stand why BOTH front speakers would destroy themselves. POWER maybe?
4) The screaming AC compressor is not the compressor at all. Its the sound of gas making its way thru a valve in the AC system. Some dealers have changed the valve with success. Some have had no success in fixing it. I have the "problem" and I ignore it.
Its very important to investigate the Hyundai dealership before the sale. The dealer can make or break the Hyundai experience.
dave
thanks
dave
Which brings us back to the only answer to this question...It IS the original paintjob and Senor Slob at your dealership is obligated to fix it, free.
Man, the questioning of the placement of the stickers on the door was a real straw clutch..
Have him fix it, then go to another dealership for future business.
Jack
thanks again, hope I'm not coming across lookin like an idiot
1. The leather wrapped steering wheel in the GT (at least the '04) is thinner than the vinyl one in my '02 GLS - which struck me as odd.
2. The dash lighting on the new GT seemed a bit disjointed and made an otherwise tasteful interior look a bit low-rent. The gauges were purple, the trip and clock were different shades of green (like my '02) and the display for the receiver continually changed its color like a chameleon, which I found to be more annoying than cool.
3. The receiver, though I'm sure it's of much higher quality than the OEM Hyundai unit, is about as user-unfriendly as they come. I asked the salesman how to adjust the balance and he spent the entire drive trying to figure it out only to give up two blocks before we arrrived back at the store.
4. The dang thing had the did the Elantra Shimmy! Granted it didn't shake to the degree my '02 does, but it was definitely there. It had about the same level of shimmy mine had when it was brand new - which is to say slight, but still noticeable. I imagine it, like mine, would worsen over time.
Hyundai may think this shimmy thing is not a serious issue, but they're sorely mistaken. At least for me, it's going to take more than $2K on the hood for me to go back for seconds. As good a deal as the Elantra is (and as wonderful a little car it is when it isn't shaking on down the road), I think I'll probably pony up the extra $3K and spring for the Mazda the next go 'round.
Before I buy any car I look at that cars Problem and Solutions board (thanks Edmunds). Each car has its own set of problems.
Re the radio, the backlight can be easily adjusted to match the color of the gauges--and not switch colors continuously. And setting balance is not a big deal--just need to take a few minutes to read the manual. The buttons on the radio are small, but it has lots of great features also, including a five (I think) band equalizer, pre-set equalizer settings for various kinds of music, remote control, MP3 playback etc.
If you go for a Mazda3, be sure to check out the A/C performance on a hot day.
Still doin the jig. What a frustrating little assemblage of junk.
I haven't read the autoweek article yet, but I'd like to have an expert look at my car. The door seals are almost gone in an area located on the unhinged side near the latch mechanism. its gone on both front doors and the door panels seem to be rubbing on the pillar trim . The areas don't contact each other when the car is not moving. but seem to be in contact at times when the car is in motion. Is this really a design flaw?
I noticed when I was vacation that a few dealers don't advertise the elantra in print advertising, at least not in some places in Ohio and others in florida. Is this because hyundai wants to cut their losses. actually, they arent incurring any losses when they dont fix their cars. they sure could have handled things differently.
I guess since they wont fix it and I am not spending thousands to chase down a mystery problem, i'm just going to run it till it falls apart. I guess about another two years and it will be ready to part out to hyundai mechanics!!
good luck and shimmy-shammy to ya!
I've never heard of a door seal problem on ANY car as you have described, including the Elantra. The seals on my almost four-year-old Elantra are still perfect. Do you live or drive in any unusual conditions? Is the car still under warranty? What has the dealer said about the door seals?
I just saw some print ads for the Elantra in my local papers over the weekend. I see them on TV occasionally too.
Maybe you should get rid of the car now and get something else rather than put up with a "frustrating little assemblage of junk" for two more years.
Anyhow..I had them cut and of course it made no difference with the shimmy..Just cost me 150 bucks..They are starting to pulse again, I suppose they will have to be cut..and then when the pads do go and need replacement, I will have to buy new rotors as they will have been cut to the maximum allowed already.. I've seen other posts regarding premature rotor warping..
Anyhow...good luck..Otherwise a great little car. Jack
Ask someone who has seen both to compare it to a Dodge Caravan system.
Jim
Until that day comes Hyundai can stuff this car.
I have never had to deal with a company like this before and I hope to never have to deal with them again. I am sorry for the negative attitude, but I have been dealing with these clowns for two years and have heard some facinating stories from
their dealer and their factory rep.
so, hyundai gets no sympathy, no respect and no positive reviews of any of their products.
I can only hope that a hyundai employee would read these postings an realize what a bunch of non-stand-up people they work with. cowards, liers and theives.
Multiple reviews by people whose job it is to evaluate cars (i.e. professionals) have commented on the rigidity of the Elantra's body structure. In my personal experience of driving dozens of different car models over 30+ years, the Elantra has one of the most solid structures of any of them. I know that is not good enough for you, but it is good enough for me to indicate that the wheel shimmy problem is not due to "body flex".
Tell you what: how about if you secure a credited, professional opinion that states without a doubt that "body flex" can cause a wheel shimmy problem similar to what the Elantra experiences? That opinion should explain why hundreds of thousands of Elantras that share the same body structure design do not exhibit the problem.
Meanwhile, do yourself and everyone you have contact with a big favor and sell your Elantra and buy another car, one that is perfect in every respect so you are not disappointed again. But you may want to avoid:
Hondas: Problems with automatic transmissions.
Toyotas: Problems with oil "sludge".
Mazdas: Problems with automatic transmissions and HVAC.
Nissans: Problems with air bags and HVAC.
Volkswagons: One of the worst reliability records.
1) wheel balance, preferably with one of those Hunter balancers
2) if that doesn't work, have the dealership swap tires/wheels with an Elantra that doesn't have the shimmy issue
3) if the problem is fixed and you are in your first year of ownership, you should be able to drive away with the new tires/wheels and let the dealership eat the cost (that's what was done in my case)
4) if the vibration continues, then have the dealership start looking at other parts (especially if the Elantra you swap your tires/wheels with doesn't have any shimmy)
Someone in a posting here mentioned how they got an Elantra as a rental car once to swap tires/wheels for troubleshooting purposes. The only issue, though, is that you might swap tires and wheels and "forget" to swap them back into place...
I still need to try getting an on-car balancing to see if that helps. I'll try to do that this week and then report back with any findings. (My shimmy is pretty minor, but it's still annoying at times -- but not to the point where I'm trying to get it fixed every other week thankfully.)
Eventually I'll buy new tires, and if that fixes the shimmy, then good. I know some on here have purchased new wheels as well, and supposedly the hub centering rings that go along with them have helped fix the shimmy.
Considering some of us haven't had the shimmy issue until after a tire rotation, is there something in the suspension of the Elantra that's causing the tires to wear unevenly and then vibrate once they are rotated and moved to the front? Also (and I know this will be overkill), but I wonder what would happen if you rotated the tires by actually removing them from the wheels and then placing the tires on other wheels, making sure when the rotation is completed that the wheels are still in their original location.
All this troubleshooting costs money, unforunately, and this just narrows the gap between the cost of a vibrating Elantra and a shimmy-free Civic/Corolla/etc (not that these models are trouble-free -- they have their problems too).
This bulletin provides guidelines when using a dynamic wheel balance machine capable of providing road force measurement data, such as the Hunter GSP9700 Vibration Control System.
Tire and wheel vibration may be caused by:
* Imbalance
* Wheel Damage or Out-of Round
* Tire RFV (Radial Force Variation)
Imbalance is normally addressed first because it is the most common cause of vibration. A well maintained off-vehicle two-plane dynamic wheel balancer can accurately correct this condition.
If a vibration or shake still exists after an imbalance has been corrected, a possible wheel out-of round condition should be addressed next.
Wheel Damage or Out-of Round conditions should be measured and corrected using the procedure outlined in the appropriate Shop Manuals in the Suspension System, Tires/Wheels section.
If the vibration condition still continues, there is a possibility that a tire may have Radial Force Variation (RFV) in excess of specifications. RFV may be defined as the amount of change in stiffness of the sidewall and footprint when a load is placed against a tire. Subtle differences in the position of the cords and belts in a tires construction can create stiff spots that make the tire roll unevenly. The stiff spots act like runout to cause vibrations at various speeds. The vibrations caused by RFV tend to appear at certain speeds and then disappear as the speed changes.
To address RFV, a wheel balancer capable of measuring RFV, such as the Hunter GSP9700 is recommended. If you do not have the recommended equipment, you may locate one in your vicinity through the Hunter website (www.gsp700.com).
If your Hyundai service tech doesn't seem to know how to attack the problem, be sure he/she knows about this TSB.
MAYBE IT'S A LACK OF BODY FLEX CAUSING THE PROBLEM. MAYBE THE STRUCTURE IS TOO STIFF.
IF ALL OF MY MONEY WASN'T TIED UP IN THIS ROLLING BUCKET OF REUSED YUGO PARTS, THEN MAYBE I WOULD GO BUY SOMETHING ELSE. KIND OF HARD TO DO WHEN THE CAR IS WORTH ONLY ABOUT A THIRD OF WHAT IT COST, AND THEN ON TOP OF THAT IT HAS PROBLEMS LIKE WHEEL VIBRATION. GOLLY, WHO WOULD BUY IT. SHOULD I TELL A PROSPECTIVE BUYER WHAT A GREAT CAR IT IS ? THAT WOULD BE LIKE BEING A HYUNDAI DEALER. RESELLING JUNK !!!
i'M NOT LOOKING FOR THE PERFECT CAR, JUST ONE THAT RIDES AND HANDLES LIKE ANY NEW CAR SHOULD.
ONE THAT I FEEL COMFORTABLE PUTTING MY WIFE A CHILD INTO. ONE THAT DOESN'T KEEP YOU ON THE EDGE OF THE SEAT WHEN BRAKING ON A HIGHWAY EXIT RAMP. I WANT ONE THAT I WONT HAVE TO HAVE TWO SETS OF TIRES PUT ON IN THE FIRST TWO YEARS. ONE THAT HASN'T HAD TO GO TO THE SHOP THIRTEEN TIMES IN THE FIRST 8 MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP. ONE THAT CAN BE REPAIRED WITHOUT BEING HUMILIATED BY THE REPAIR SHOP, OR THAT PARTICULAR MANUFACTURERS REGIONAL MECHANIC. ONE THAT WON'T NEED TO HAVE THE MOTOR MOUNTS LOOSENED SO THAT THE ENGINE CAN SETTLE IN.
YOU ARE CORRECT MR HYUNDAI.
THE SAMPLES YOU POSTED, MAZDA, HONDA ETC. SURE, THEY MAY HAVE PROBLEMS, BUT I'LL BET THOSE MANUFACTURERS DIDN'T TREAT THE CONSUMERS LIKE DIRT, AND I'LL BET THEY WORK PRETTY HARD TO REMEDY PROBLEMS WITH THEIR CARS. HYUNDAI DOES NOT CARE. THEY DON'T CARE ABOUT THE CARS, OR THE LIVING BEINGS THAT CLIMB INTO THEIR PRODUCTS EVERYDAY.
THE BEST THING I COULD DO IS GET RID OF THIS THING. CAN I INTEREST YOU IN A BEAUTIFUL, SWEET SMOOTH RIDING, PURRS LIKE A KITTEN HYUNDAI? THOUGHT SO.
IMO the evidence points to some kind of defect in one or more components, compounded by improper service practices, as opposed to a design problem. Why? If if were a design defect, the problem should be popping up in large numbers of Elantras. But it isn't. None of the many third-party reviews of the Elantra, including Edmunds.com's long-term test, have mentioned this problem. CR's reliability survey doesn't show a large number of problems in this area. There has been no NHTSA investigation of the problem. Personally, I've driven eight 2001-2004 Elantras with anywhere from zero to 28,000 miles, and none had this problem.
If it is a parts defect, my thinking is the main candidates for the problem are the tires and wheels. As for service issues, we've seen here how improper torqueing of lug nuts and failure to do recommended tire rotation seems to have an effect.
I think the tough part about this problem is that what I think we have here is multiple problems, with multiple causes, all of which manifest themselves with "wheel shimmy." So it's not just a matter of finding "the reason." Resolution takes a multi-step approach as jpryba suggested and the TSB explains.
I think a number of things could've cured the problem. 1) the complete rebalance. I don't doubt that the machine said the tires were nicely balanced the 1st time, but there has to be some tolerance built into what is considered 'balanced'. the 2nd balance was probably closer to nominal than the 1st try. 2)when they took the wheels off they may have inadvertently swapped left to right (I know they didn't swap front to back because they were marked). It's also probable that they were not installed in the exact same orientation as before... i.e. picture taking a wheel off rotating it 90deg and replacing it, the wheel imbalance relative to any brake rotor rotor imbalance is no longer the same.
Which brings me to my completely uneducated opinion based on observation. There are some tolerances in the suspension setup that will allow a minor imbalance in the wheel/tire (i.e. the wheel is in spec, but on the high end of tolerance) to excite an undesired natural frequency resulting in wheel shimmy. This would explain why some elantras never have the problem (these are on one end of the suspension tolerances) and some can never be cured (these are on the other end of the tolerances). I think I was the unfortunate victim of good tire balance out of the factory, but the tire rotation and balance just happened to find that amount of imbalance that excites the shimmy with my car's particular tolerances. Ok, now I'm rambling... but the long and short of it is... if I'm right then the real problem elantras will probably never be cured by dealer visits. Only a redesign/assembly method change can cure the problem which I hope is the case with the 04's.
I think I'm going to try the "start over" approach. I'll have the tire shop rip the weights off the wheels, maybe even take the tires off the wheels and stick them back on. I will also look into on-car balancing as well. I figure this is worth another $50 or so.
Most people seem to develop a shimmy over time or the shimmy appears after you upset the original configuration... e.g. tire rotation etc. Since the shimmy only seems to appear at a certain speed, about 70mph, it would appear to be related to a natural frequency of the drive line. Something as simple as the fit between the bearings and the hub can change the natural freq of the entire driveline, so I suggest that some combination of tolerances might play a role in the shimmy. When I say tolerances, it's a bit misleading because we are dealing with a stack up of many tolerances. Every part has dimensional variations which makes pinpointing one part as the cause very difficult. That also means there is no one magic adjustment, it all depends on the parts that are used to build your car and how they were assembled.
I think the "start over" approach may be worthwhile. Remounting the wheels may help if it is a radial force variation/wheel out of round problem (search for the Hunter balancer, there was a TSB a few posts back). On car balancing may work, but what happens when you have to rotate the tires? All the balancing has to be redone as well. My shimmy was huge and then it went away which says that the driveline parts are all probably ok. If yours is a minor shake that just won't go away, then something somewhere may be worn just enough... and that's the frustrating part, what is that something and where is it?