Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

baber1 · July 2004

There was a recall on my 99 Accent for cracks in the exhaust manifold. I never brought it in because I never had the problem. Our 99 Elantra never had any problems with the exhaust. If your used Elantra has less then 60000 miles, it may be under warranty.

jimijames · July 2004

I also think it was mentioned that the hub centering rings only apply to aftermarket rims. Factory alloys already fit snuggly around the hub, so rings are not needed (not sure about factory steel rims).

I'd be interested in a good set of aftermarket rotors as well. When we bought the GLS used with 20k, the rotors were incredibly warped (I had the dealer install NEW ones as a condition of sale). Now on my GT, bought new, with 17k I'm noticing that my rotors are starting to warp. OEM elantra rotors are crap in my opinion and I would be interested in quality aftermarket parts too.

baber1 · July 2004

I put 132,000 miles on my 99 Accent with no brake problems and 40,000 miles on our 99 Elantra with no brake problems. Replaced pads on the 99 Accent at 56,000 and 110,000 miles. The pads are original on our 99 Elantra. I have 5000 miles on my 04 GLS we will see how the brakes last on it.

jpryba · July 2004

In the past few days I've noticed that my Elantra takes 2 attempts to start (or 3 this past morning). On the first attemp, you can hear a cranking noise but the engine won't turn over when you let go of the key. The car starts fine the second try. This has happened after parking the car for as little as 15 minutes or as long as 9 or 10 hours. Hyundai's WebTech site says it could be one of 5 different things (ignition coil and faulty spark plugs among other items). Luckily the issue occurs even if the car isn't sitting around for long, but with my luck the car will be fine when I take it to the dealership!

If this is weather-related, I can mention it's been in the 80s and humid, and we've had some rain in the past few days too -- but we've had this kind of weather before and my car has started fine in it anyway.

Anyone else have this issue at all?

jimbeaumi · July 2004

My experience on shimmy: new tires at 35K made no difference. One rotation since they were installed made no difference. Brakes are still fine, with no vibration even during hard braking. So when the shimmy appears, light as it is, I am still scratching my head. Then I speed up.

Tell us more about hub centering, I'm now curious and interested. I have a GLS (steel wheels).

ems1 · July 2004

Since you have the original steel wheels, the hub centering adapter is not needed. That only applies to aftermarket wheels where the center hole is bigger than the hub. The adapter is a ring to fill the gap between the hub and the wheel.
I mentioned in a previous post that I thought it might be possible for the rotor to be out of balance even though the surface is true and not vibrating under braking. If the vibration doesn't change when the tires are rotated that would seem to rule them out, as you've determined.
If I had your car, I'd try a pair of new rotors to see if anything changes. I haven't priced them for the Elantra, but I just put 2 on my daughter's Cavalier for $20 each (my labor).

jpryba · July 2004

I think it was a combination of temperature and moisture that caused the starting issue I described in my earlier posting. The weather has cleared up and cooled down a little. My car is starting fine on the first try now.

jimbeaumi · July 2004

Thanks for the info. I am curious: how does the rotor get out of balance? Is there a way to correct it if the condition of the rotor is otherwise good? Buying new rotors is not out of the question, but since the braking performance is good and the shimmy isn't as bad as some are experiencing I may just wait.

themanx · July 2004

One way is the guys rotating tires using air impact tools to secure the wheels on instead of a torque wrench.
I always demand at any tire place they tighten my
lugs do manufacture specifications.

Another way is if they are hot from excessive braking and you hit a large puddle of water, that quick temperature change can also cause warping.

ElantraSstan

jlflemmons · July 2004

On a vented rotor like the fronts on an Elantra, you will sometimes see a wedge looking piece of metal stuck in the vent holes. These are weights used to balance a rotor and with time can come out. Usually rust will hold them in place, but I have seen them rust to the point of coming loose.

And before we go off on the rust issue with Elantra rotors, I challenge anyone to name a production or aftermarket rotor that doesn't rust. I have seen Ford rotors rust all the way through to the vents! I suppose someone makes a high performance rotor of some composition that holds up longer, but not sure if I could or would buy them.

Jim

jimbeaumi · July 2004

Thanks, all, for the good tips. I'm learning new things on these threads all the time!

I posted on the Elantra Sedan section about my cabin filter (it's in) and K&N air filter (it's on order). A very happy 46K miles now on an '01 GLS 5-speed.

newhartford · July 2004

I wonder what the probability is that a dealer would notice that a rotor weight had fallen off or balance a new one when it is being installed?

jlflemmons · July 2004

zero. You have to look really close at a new rotor to determine if the weight fell out

jimbeaumi · July 2004

Once again, for those wishing to order a cabin filter, the part number is 97133-2D000. And it does trap quite a bit of dirt.

Also, any good comments about K&N Filters? Mine will arrive Friday. I am curious too about the re-oiling process.

5port · July 2004

"Once again, for those wishing to order a cabin filter, the part number is 97133-2D000. And it does trap quite a bit of dirt."

------------------------------------------------

   Someone made one from an electrostatic furnace filter. I like that idea. You dont have to pay $50. I know a parts manager that sells them for $35 shipped.

------------------------------------------------
"Also, any good comments about K&N Filters? Mine will arrive Friday. I am curious too about the re-oiling process."

----------------------------------------------

   You might consider removing the air horn from the airbox when installing the K&N. Its in the top of the box and it pushes out from the inside. Here is a picture:

<http://img29.photobucket.com/albums/v86/xlr8also/ahorn.jpg>

The opening to the airbox is bigger afterwards and the sound is a tad more aggressive.

  Cleaning the K&N is easy. Buy the reoiling/cleaning kit for $9.95. The oil in the kit is tinted red. when reoiling the filter (red oil) makes it easy to see:

1) with filter in hand remove large debree by hand or a VERY SOFT brush.

2) Spray cleaner solution on filter (saturate)

3) let sit for 5min

4) with hose nozzle removed for low pressure rinse filter in reverse flow (from clean to dirty side).

5) let sit in sun until dried

6) reoil filter using only K&N oil. Spray in long stripes until whole filter looks red (it will turn white after washing). Do not over oil.

  Your done.

crsher2002 · July 2004

Anyone experiencing this? I have 40K on a 2002GT and I'm starting to hear that telltale sound toward the rear engine area of air escaping...haven't gotten under the car yet, but it is a familiar noise - started on my Civic around 75K

5port · July 2004

The exhaust manifold on the Beta engine has been known to split. However if you are hearing the sound from the rear it cant be the manifold as thats located in front of the engine.

Could be your exhaust has either separated or rotted out. If you do a lot of short trips the latter could be the case.

For reference my 2001 GT has 22k miles on it. Most of it is 2.5 miles to and from work. My exhaust is still intact.

BTW: some of the exhaust system components are covered under warranty. Check with your dealer.

nickimom · July 2004

Hello! I'm a new Elantra GT owner. I purchased it June 14, I have about 1500 miles on it, and that light comes on when hubby driving and I am passenger, or when hubby in seat and I'm driving, or when others in the seat. I sit in the seat normally, and light can go on and off.
Hyundai service manager says it's ok...the airbag will still deploy. Not for nothing - when I see a car with that passenger airbag off sign illuminated crash, and the airbag deploys, then I'll believe them. Any suggestions for me? Thank you

5port · July 2004

There is a Technical Service bulletin relating to the airbags on the 2004 Elantra...show your dealer
---------------------------------------------

Technical Service Bulletin Group
90 - Electrical

Number

03-90-024

Subject
Date

2004 Elantra Supplemental Restraint System
12-2003

Model

Elantra 2004


2004 ELANTRA SUPPLEMENTAL RESTRAINT SYSTEM
DESCRIPTION:

This bulletin provides general information for the Supplemental Restraint System (SRS) that is installed in 2004 MY Elantra vehicles produced beginning in July 2003.

The dual-stage front airbags provide two levels of inflation. A first stage inflation is provided for moderate impacts, while a second stage inflation is provided for more severe impacts.

In order to determine whether a first or second stage deployment should occur, the SRS uses several sensors to obtain information regarding the impact speed, seat belt usage and front seat position.

See the 2004 Elantra Shop Manual Restraints Section and the Owner's Manual for further information about supplemental restraint systems.

TABLE OF CONTENTS:

SRS COMPONENT LOCATIONS:

SRS COMPONENTS LISTING:

Driver Airbag (DAB):

The driver airbag is a dual output type. Airbag inflation is determined by the impact speed, seat belt usage and driver seat position.

Since the dual-stage front airbag system has two (2) circuits, the DAB has two (2) connectors for the circuits. The two connectors are of a different style and are not interchangeable.

Passenger Airbag (PAB):

The passenger airbag is also a dual output type. Airbag inflation is determined by the impact speed, seat belt usage and front passenger seat position.

Although the PAB is a dual-stage airbag (like the DAB), it has one connector (4 pins) for the two circuits.

The PAB connector is located behind the dash panel, directly above the HVAC blower motor.

Occupant Classification System (OCS):

The Occupant Classification System detects the presence of a passenger in the front passenger's seat and will turn off the front passenger's airbag under certain conditions. The driver's airbag and the driver's side impact airbag are not affected by the OCS.

The OCS is designed to detect the presence of a properly seated occupant (sitting upright with the seat in an upright position, centered on the seat cushion, with legs comfortably extended) and determine if the passenger's airbag and the passenger's side impact airbag should be enabled (may inflate) or not.

Located at the center of the instrument panel, the "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" warning lamp provides the passenger airbag status. If the front passenger seat is unoccupied or occupied by someone lighter than approximately 55 pounds (24.9 kg), the indicator "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" will be displayed and the front passenger's airbag and side impact airbag will be turned off and will not deploy in frontal or side impacts.

The OCS's force sensor resistor (FSR) cells are located in the front passenger seat. The FSR's resistance values decrease with increasing weight. When a person sits in the passenger seat, the resistance in each FSR cell will decrease relative to the load. When a predetermined number of these cells have been detected, the PAB circuitry is activated and the "PASSENGER AIRBAG OFF" lamp is turned off.

Weight Sensing Detector:

NOTE
Even if a vehicle is equipped with an OCS, do not install a child restraint system in the front passenger's seat.

Refer to the 2004 Elantra Owner's Manual section "Occupant Classification System" (Section 1 - pages 36-37) for more details.

Seat Track Position Sensor (STPS):

The Seat Track Position Sensor is located on the inside seat rail of both front seats. The STPS resistance changes depending on its location relative to a vane mounted on the seat rail. When the STPS is positioned over the vane (9 latching positions or more rearward of the forward-most position), its resistance is approximately 900 ohms. When it is positioned off of the vane (within 8 latching positions from the forward-most position), the sensor's resistance is approximately 300 ohms. (The STPS resistance values are measured without requiring power to the circuit).

In the event of a frontal impact severe enough to deploy the airbags, if one of the front seats is placed within 8 latching positions from the forward-most position (STPS off of the vane), only the first stage circuit will be activated for that airbag. If the front seat is placed 9 latching positions or more rearward of the forward-most position (STPS over the vane), then the SRS Control Module will deploy the bag with either the first or second circuit (depending on seat belt usage and the severity of the impact).

If an STPS condition prevents the SRSCM from determining the position of the seat, a Seat Track Sensor Fault Code is generated and the SRS warning light will illuminate until erased from the SRSCM memory by using a Hi-Scan Pro (the fault code will remain even if the condition has been corrected).

Front Impact Sensor (FIS):

The front impact sensor is mounted under the radiator support panel. The FIS aids in the airbag deployment decision.

Side Impact Airbag (SAB):

The side impact airbags (installed in both driver and passenger front seats) are the single output type. Side airbag equipped vehicles have "SRS AIRBAG" imprinted on the side of the front seats. The two satellite sensors are located at the bottom of the B-pillar, behind the seat belt pretensioner assembly.

NOTE
Any modification(s) of the seats may prevent proper operation of the side impact airbags when they are intended to deploy in a collision and can result in serious injury or death. See TSB# 01-90-012 ("Side Impact Airbags") for more details.

SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL (SST) FOR DUAL-STAGE AIRBAG:

See 2004 Elantra Shop Manual, Restraints Section, page RT-6 for complete dual stage airbag SST information.

SSTs are available through SPX/Kent-Moore at 1-800-345-2233.

CAUTION
Review the safety rules noted in the shop manual before working on vehicles equipped with an airbag system.

DISPOSAL INSTRUCTIONS FOR DUAL-STAGE AIRBAGS:

In a moderate-severity impact requiring deployment of only the first stage of the dualstage airbag, after the first stage of the dual-stage airbag has been deployed, the second stage will be deployed by the SRSCM after the collision event has been completed. Therefore, the airbag second stage does not need to be deployed intentionally for disposal after deployment of the first stage.

In a severe impact, both stages are deployed at the same time.

When scrapping a car or intentionally deploying airbag modules that are to be replaced, deploy each stage individually.

backy · July 2004

Take it back to the dealer, show them in the owner's manual the part about how the passenger airbag sensor works, demonstrate how the airbag off light stays on when you or your husband sit in the seat and tell them you want the car fixed NOW, or they can give you another car (check the airbags first of course). If they balk, take it to the dealer's customer service rep (if they have one), if not directly to Hyundai. Also tell them you will be filing a safety complaint with the NHTSA (which can trigger a recall if they get enough of them)--then do it.

gogophers1 · July 2004

There is an article on smart airbags today on autoweek.com, and not surprisingly, it mentions Hyundai among others manufacturers in describing the problems owners are experiencing with them. What is surprising, however, is how Hyundai has apparently instructed owners with the problem to resolve it: sit in the back or trade it in!

from autoweek:
"About 50 owners of the 2004 Hyundai Elantra have complained to the company that the passenger-side airbag system won't turn on when the passenger is seated.

Hyundai engineers in Korea have been studying the problem since February but don't know how to repair it. Hyundai Motor America recommends that owners of the affected cars tell passengers to sit in the back seat or else trade in their car and purchase a different model.

Hyundai would not identify its airbag supplier."

TELL PASSENGERS TO SIT IN THE BACK OR TRADE IT IN?!?!?!?!! What a brilliant suggestion.

Hmmmmmm...I wonder how many of these owners will trade their cars in for another Hyundai...

Fortunately for me, I drove an '02, so I don't have this particular issue to grapple with, but I do have a shimmy that seems unrepairable, a turn signal that sometimes sticks (will not self-cancel), two front speakers that are all but gone and an AC compressor that screams like a banshee every time it engages.

I've given up on fixing the shimmy - and I know at 46K, the dealer will be no help here. But I've tried on several visits to get the front speakers replaced under warranty - no luck. How difficult is this to do? Still, Metro Hyundai in Bloomington refuses to replace them because they still produce some sound - granted it's only at a very high volume (the remaining speakers are on the verge of blowing while these produce nary a garbled whisper). And, of course, they cannot reproduce the turn signal issue. Either that, or they have no idea how to fix it and that's the line they're giving me.

Do I hate my Elantra? Not at all. But what could be a fine ownership experience is all but ruined by horrible dealer service and complete lack of warranty support. Seriously, what good does a 60K bumper-to-bumper warranty do if the dealer/company is incapable or unwilling to fix anything under it?

The Elantra is one of the best compact cars out there in terms of design, I know firsthand because I drove them all before I bought mine. And value-wise, it's the best deal going.

But I can't imagine myself going back to Hyundai for my next car when the company tells its customers that the "fix" for their problems is buying a different car. Unbelievable.

the link for anyone interested:

www.autoweek.com/cat_content.mv?port_code=autoweek&cat_code=c- arnews&loc_code=index&content_code=09310365

jimijames · July 2004

yeah, I went off on Hyundai for the same thing in the regular Elantra forum. It seems Hyundai's track record for dealing with the odd problems that don't affect all cars (shimmy, the 04 airbag thing) is horrible. It doesn't help that their dealer/service network is, for the most part, incompetent. And before someone gets all bent out of shape... I'm not saying there are no good Hyundai dealers out there, but personal experience and various comments I've seen indicate otherwise.

I like my Elantra's. Good, cheap (inexpensive) transportation. But with the lousy service and Hyundai's mind-numbingly dumb comments like buy a different car or sit in the back seat, I can't see myself returning for another Hyundai when time to replace them.

dhazen1 · July 2004

From the day I took it home from the dealer, whenever I hit the brakes at 60mph or above I had one heck of a shimmy. Took it to the dealer - they REPLACED both rotors. *Under Warranty*
Other than that, she is running like a champ with almost 10K miles (since April).

5port · July 2004

When an article is a negative and one-sided as Autoweek's I discount and call it a negative spike in the otherwise good average. It happens.

-------------------------------------------

Fortunately for me, I drove an '02, so I don't have this particular issue to grapple with, but I do have a shimmy that seems unrepairable, a turn signal that sometimes sticks (will not self-cancel), two front speakers that are all but gone and an AC compressor that screams like a banshee every time it engages.
----------------------------------------

1) A shimmy thats seems unrepairable is a real problem and shame on Hyundai for not taking a more aggressive approach to this problem.

2) A turn signal that sometimes does not cancel is not enough to right a car off IMO. I've had that issue on countless cars.

3) I cant under stand why BOTH front speakers would destroy themselves. POWER maybe?

4) The screaming AC compressor is not the compressor at all. Its the sound of gas making its way thru a valve in the AC system. Some dealers have changed the valve with success. Some have had no success in fixing it. I have the "problem" and I ignore it.

Its very important to investigate the Hyundai dealership before the sale. The dealer can make or break the Hyundai experience.

biikman · July 2004

Just purchased a 2003 Elantra GLS. Drives great, looks nice. While washing it I noticed a small dime size bubble on the drivers side roof, but it wasn't cracked. Still had clearcoat on it. So I took it to the dealer and he looked at it and said it looked like to him there was something underneath when it was clearcoated, meaning at some point it was painted. The door, the frame around the door, everything looks ok, no overspray, no signs if it being painted. original stickers on the windows etc...Autocheck was run and it came up ok for everything. The only weird thing is, there are 3 stickers on the bottom part of the inside door frame...one just the VIN, one showing tire inflation info, and the 3rd showing manufactering date and weight and all that. He said the third sticker should be on the door itself. Can anyone give me any ideas on what could be going on? man my stumach is in knots right now.
dave

biikman · July 2004

well, after calling and talking to a very nice customer service rep at Hyundai, he stated that the sticker on hid 2002 is in the same place, so I feel much better now. Would be curious as to others here, is yours on the door or the center post inside the door, near where you'd step.
thanks
dave

jlflemmons · July 2004

are all three in the opening, not on the door. The one with the tire info is at the bottom, near the threshold molding.

firemanjack · July 2004

Well biikman, looks like you have been talking to Mr. Dealer Desperado. He's trying to tell you that the bubble in the paint on the roof of your car was caused by some slob painting over a large lump? Hmmmm. And an inspection of the paint job shows no signs of it being a repaint job; ergo: either it is the original paintjob, or this slob who repainted the roof over a lump of stuff did a magnificent job of matching color and not overpsraying...But, why then would such a meticulous fellow spray over a lump on the roof...A conundrum that defies rational answer, eh what?
Which brings us back to the only answer to this question...It IS the original paintjob and Senor Slob at your dealership is obligated to fix it, free.
Man, the questioning of the placement of the stickers on the door was a real straw clutch..
Have him fix it, then go to another dealership for future business.
Jack

biikman · July 2004

I've an appointment for them to look at it thursday, to determine cause and whether it's warrantied or not and how to repair it. Now as to warranty, they may try to say it was caused by environmental conditions. Bird poop etc. so, how best to state my case so that I have the best chance of it being covered. Argue it was a flaw in the original paint job?
thanks again, hope I'm not coming across lookin like an idiot

smith20 · July 2004

Well after two days of the driver door being rattle-less, I am going to declare it gone.

It turned out the interior of the door was slightly sticking to the metal of the door right below the top screw on the end of the door. Just took out the screw, pried the interior slightly apart from the metal door frame with a spatula, and then sprayed some WD40 in there and now it makes no more noise.

I'm very pleased. Car hits the 90 day mark in 6 days and that was only problem so far other than the airbag triggering at about 110-115 pounds instead of 55.

bikerpa · July 2004

...might I suggest trying out a different dealer service department? Just a thought. I'm sorta hosed here in central SC, there's one Hyundai dealer within two hours of my home, but any reasonably well-developed urban area oughta have more than that.

gogophers1 · July 2004

I wandered over to Inver Grove Heights after work yesterday to drive an '04 Elantra GT (I had one of those test-drive promo certificates I needed to have a salesman sign). All went well and it seemed like a very nice car, though I found a few noteworthy items:

1. The leather wrapped steering wheel in the GT (at least the '04) is thinner than the vinyl one in my '02 GLS - which struck me as odd.

2. The dash lighting on the new GT seemed a bit disjointed and made an otherwise tasteful interior look a bit low-rent. The gauges were purple, the trip and clock were different shades of green (like my '02) and the display for the receiver continually changed its color like a chameleon, which I found to be more annoying than cool.

3. The receiver, though I'm sure it's of much higher quality than the OEM Hyundai unit, is about as user-unfriendly as they come. I asked the salesman how to adjust the balance and he spent the entire drive trying to figure it out only to give up two blocks before we arrrived back at the store.

4. The dang thing had the did the Elantra Shimmy! Granted it didn't shake to the degree my '02 does, but it was definitely there. It had about the same level of shimmy mine had when it was brand new - which is to say slight, but still noticeable. I imagine it, like mine, would worsen over time.

Hyundai may think this shimmy thing is not a serious issue, but they're sorely mistaken. At least for me, it's going to take more than $2K on the hood for me to go back for seconds. As good a deal as the Elantra is (and as wonderful a little car it is when it isn't shaking on down the road), I think I'll probably pony up the extra $3K and spring for the Mazda the next go 'round.

5port · July 2004

I'm sorry to hear that you found shimmy in an 04 Hyundai. This in itself does not mean Hyundai is not listening. If anything this means Hyundai is continuing to sell cars while coming up with a fix.

Before I buy any car I look at that cars Problem and Solutions board (thanks Edmunds). Each car has its own set of problems.

backy · July 2004

I thought the wheel could be a little thicker also. But the leather has a nice feel to it I think.

Re the radio, the backlight can be easily adjusted to match the color of the gauges--and not switch colors continuously. And setting balance is not a big deal--just need to take a few minutes to read the manual. The buttons on the radio are small, but it has lots of great features also, including a five (I think) band equalizer, pre-set equalizer settings for various kinds of music, remote control, MP3 playback etc.

If you go for a Mazda3, be sure to check out the A/C performance on a hot day.

boatman1339 · August 2004

Is it possible that body flex could be causing the shimmy, I just put new rubber on my 02 and tightened the lugs in accordance with the tsb.
Still doin the jig. What a frustrating little assemblage of junk.
I haven't read the autoweek article yet, but I'd like to have an expert look at my car. The door seals are almost gone in an area located on the unhinged side near the latch mechanism. its gone on both front doors and the door panels seem to be rubbing on the pillar trim . The areas don't contact each other when the car is not moving. but seem to be in contact at times when the car is in motion. Is this really a design flaw?
I noticed when I was vacation that a few dealers don't advertise the elantra in print advertising, at least not in some places in Ohio and others in florida. Is this because hyundai wants to cut their losses. actually, they arent incurring any losses when they dont fix their cars. they sure could have handled things differently.
I guess since they wont fix it and I am not spending thousands to chase down a mystery problem, i'm just going to run it till it falls apart. I guess about another two years and it will be ready to part out to hyundai mechanics!!
good luck and shimmy-shammy to ya!

backy · August 2004

Unlikely that body flex is causing the shimmy. The Elantra's structure is quite stiff.

I've never heard of a door seal problem on ANY car as you have described, including the Elantra. The seals on my almost four-year-old Elantra are still perfect. Do you live or drive in any unusual conditions? Is the car still under warranty? What has the dealer said about the door seals?

I just saw some print ads for the Elantra in my local papers over the weekend. I see them on TV occasionally too.

Maybe you should get rid of the car now and get something else rather than put up with a "frustrating little assemblage of junk" for two more years.

sasha7776120 · August 2004

I have also had this problem. My brakes started thumping/ pulsating at 104 miles, took to dealership - determined rear shoes were binding on the backing plates. They removed and resurfaced and lubed backing plates. Noise again at 1587 - again performed as above. ~9000 miles, returned with same complaint - service could not hear. At 10,251 again - this time determined rear drums out of round, and replaced. This corrected the problem till 32000 miles later at 42,500 both the front brake rotors and the rear brake drums were resurfaced. I still have not have to replace either the pads or shoes, so I don't understand how the drums and rotors get warped. I feel it has to be a design defect. Anyone else with these similiar problems?

firemanjack · August 2004

Yes Sasha, I've had problems with the rotors on my 02 warping..At about 11,000 miles I decided I'd had enough of the terminal steering wheel shimmy and was told the first step was to cut my rotors as they were warped, but I would have to pay 150 bucks to have this done as brakes are not covered after 10,000 miles..even if they are causing the front end shimmy..
Anyhow..I had them cut and of course it made no difference with the shimmy..Just cost me 150 bucks..They are starting to pulse again, I suppose they will have to be cut..and then when the pads do go and need replacement, I will have to buy new rotors as they will have been cut to the maximum allowed already.. I've seen other posts regarding premature rotor warping..
Anyhow...good luck..Otherwise a great little car. Jack

jlflemmons · August 2004

Rotor warpage can be caused by many factors. Four lug hubs can easily warp the rotors if the wheels are not torqued down correctly. Rotors will also warp when going from a high heat condition such as braking hard coming off a freeway ramp and splashing into water. The rapid heating/cooling cycle is very hard on a rotor. This being said, it is not a problem soley attributed to Hyundai, but to all makes and models of autos. Just some are more sensitive to the problem. The Elantra actually has a rather substantial rotor for the weight of the auto. If you are only getting one cut off the rotor to correct a pulsing issue, somebody is not doing the job correctly. It only takes a very light cut to true the rotor. Deeper cuts are only used when the rotor is scarred from a "too late" brake job. Mine developed a slight pulse at 10K, but has not worsened in the 25K miles I have driven since. Speaking as one who has seen a lot of different disk brake systems, the Elantra is actually one of the better ones.
Ask someone who has seen both to compare it to a Dodge Caravan system.

Jim

boatman1339 · August 2004

Body flex. responding to the person who doubted that there may be a body flex problem. I am keeping an open mind about this until a credited professional can tell me with no doubt that there is no body flex. there has to be a reason for this vibration problem. perhaps there are some design flaws with this car, maybe there aren't. hyundai should step up to the plate and get these cars off the road until they find the problem.
Until that day comes Hyundai can stuff this car.
I have never had to deal with a company like this before and I hope to never have to deal with them again. I am sorry for the negative attitude, but I have been dealing with these clowns for two years and have heard some facinating stories from
their dealer and their factory rep.
so, hyundai gets no sympathy, no respect and no positive reviews of any of their products.
I can only hope that a hyundai employee would read these postings an realize what a bunch of non-stand-up people they work with. cowards, liers and theives.

backy · August 2004

You are keeping an open mind about this? IMO you are doing everything possible to keep a closed mind about this. You are setting a bar for the Elantra that is impossible to cross: that a "credited professional" (and who might that be?) tells you with no doubt there is "no body flex". Since any vehicle will have some degree of body flex (since they are not made from a single block of steel, but an assembly of welded and bolted parts), there is no way the Elantra, or any other car, can meet this test. You have guaranteed that the Elantra will disappoint you once again.

Multiple reviews by people whose job it is to evaluate cars (i.e. professionals) have commented on the rigidity of the Elantra's body structure. In my personal experience of driving dozens of different car models over 30+ years, the Elantra has one of the most solid structures of any of them. I know that is not good enough for you, but it is good enough for me to indicate that the wheel shimmy problem is not due to "body flex".

Tell you what: how about if you secure a credited, professional opinion that states without a doubt that "body flex" can cause a wheel shimmy problem similar to what the Elantra experiences? That opinion should explain why hundreds of thousands of Elantras that share the same body structure design do not exhibit the problem.

Meanwhile, do yourself and everyone you have contact with a big favor and sell your Elantra and buy another car, one that is perfect in every respect so you are not disappointed again. But you may want to avoid:

Hondas: Problems with automatic transmissions.
Toyotas: Problems with oil "sludge".
Mazdas: Problems with automatic transmissions and HVAC.
Nissans: Problems with air bags and HVAC.
Volkswagons: One of the worst reliability records.

jpryba · August 2004

Once again, let's review a few things that should be done if your Elantra starts to shimmy:

1) wheel balance, preferably with one of those Hunter balancers

2) if that doesn't work, have the dealership swap tires/wheels with an Elantra that doesn't have the shimmy issue

3) if the problem is fixed and you are in your first year of ownership, you should be able to drive away with the new tires/wheels and let the dealership eat the cost (that's what was done in my case)

4) if the vibration continues, then have the dealership start looking at other parts (especially if the Elantra you swap your tires/wheels with doesn't have any shimmy)

Someone in a posting here mentioned how they got an Elantra as a rental car once to swap tires/wheels for troubleshooting purposes. The only issue, though, is that you might swap tires and wheels and "forget" to swap them back into place...

I still need to try getting an on-car balancing to see if that helps. I'll try to do that this week and then report back with any findings. (My shimmy is pretty minor, but it's still annoying at times -- but not to the point where I'm trying to get it fixed every other week thankfully.)

Eventually I'll buy new tires, and if that fixes the shimmy, then good. I know some on here have purchased new wheels as well, and supposedly the hub centering rings that go along with them have helped fix the shimmy.

Considering some of us haven't had the shimmy issue until after a tire rotation, is there something in the suspension of the Elantra that's causing the tires to wear unevenly and then vibrate once they are rotated and moved to the front? Also (and I know this will be overkill), but I wonder what would happen if you rotated the tires by actually removing them from the wheels and then placing the tires on other wheels, making sure when the rotation is completed that the wheels are still in their original location.

All this troubleshooting costs money, unforunately, and this just narrows the gap between the cost of a vibrating Elantra and a shimmy-free Civic/Corolla/etc (not that these models are trouble-free -- they have their problems too).

backy · August 2004

Good advice. Here is what Hyundai says about correcting "tire and wheel vibration" in TSB 01-50-008, available at http://www.hmaservice.com/webtech/default.asp:

This bulletin provides guidelines when using a dynamic wheel balance machine capable of providing road force measurement data, such as the Hunter GSP9700 Vibration Control System.

Tire and wheel vibration may be caused by:

* Imbalance

* Wheel Damage or Out-of Round

* Tire RFV (Radial Force Variation)

Imbalance is normally addressed first because it is the most common cause of vibration. A well maintained off-vehicle two-plane dynamic wheel balancer can accurately correct this condition.

If a vibration or shake still exists after an imbalance has been corrected, a possible wheel out-of round condition should be addressed next.

Wheel Damage or Out-of Round conditions should be measured and corrected using the procedure outlined in the appropriate Shop Manuals in the Suspension System, Tires/Wheels section.

If the vibration condition still continues, there is a possibility that a tire may have Radial Force Variation (RFV) in excess of specifications. RFV may be defined as the amount of change in stiffness of the sidewall and footprint when a load is placed against a tire. Subtle differences in the position of the cords and belts in a tires construction can create stiff spots that make the tire roll unevenly. The stiff spots act like runout to cause vibrations at various speeds. The vibrations caused by RFV tend to appear at certain speeds and then disappear as the speed changes.

To address RFV, a wheel balancer capable of measuring RFV, such as the Hunter GSP9700 is recommended. If you do not have the recommended equipment, you may locate one in your vicinity through the Hunter website (www.gsp700.com).

If your Hyundai service tech doesn't seem to know how to attack the problem, be sure he/she knows about this TSB.

boatman1339 · August 2004

Mr Hyundai,
MAYBE IT'S A LACK OF BODY FLEX CAUSING THE PROBLEM. MAYBE THE STRUCTURE IS TOO STIFF.
IF ALL OF MY MONEY WASN'T TIED UP IN THIS ROLLING BUCKET OF REUSED YUGO PARTS, THEN MAYBE I WOULD GO BUY SOMETHING ELSE. KIND OF HARD TO DO WHEN THE CAR IS WORTH ONLY ABOUT A THIRD OF WHAT IT COST, AND THEN ON TOP OF THAT IT HAS PROBLEMS LIKE WHEEL VIBRATION. GOLLY, WHO WOULD BUY IT. SHOULD I TELL A PROSPECTIVE BUYER WHAT A GREAT CAR IT IS ? THAT WOULD BE LIKE BEING A HYUNDAI DEALER. RESELLING JUNK !!!
i'M NOT LOOKING FOR THE PERFECT CAR, JUST ONE THAT RIDES AND HANDLES LIKE ANY NEW CAR SHOULD.
ONE THAT I FEEL COMFORTABLE PUTTING MY WIFE A CHILD INTO. ONE THAT DOESN'T KEEP YOU ON THE EDGE OF THE SEAT WHEN BRAKING ON A HIGHWAY EXIT RAMP. I WANT ONE THAT I WONT HAVE TO HAVE TWO SETS OF TIRES PUT ON IN THE FIRST TWO YEARS. ONE THAT HASN'T HAD TO GO TO THE SHOP THIRTEEN TIMES IN THE FIRST 8 MONTHS OF OWNERSHIP. ONE THAT CAN BE REPAIRED WITHOUT BEING HUMILIATED BY THE REPAIR SHOP, OR THAT PARTICULAR MANUFACTURERS REGIONAL MECHANIC. ONE THAT WON'T NEED TO HAVE THE MOTOR MOUNTS LOOSENED SO THAT THE ENGINE CAN SETTLE IN.
YOU ARE CORRECT MR HYUNDAI.
THE SAMPLES YOU POSTED, MAZDA, HONDA ETC. SURE, THEY MAY HAVE PROBLEMS, BUT I'LL BET THOSE MANUFACTURERS DIDN'T TREAT THE CONSUMERS LIKE DIRT, AND I'LL BET THEY WORK PRETTY HARD TO REMEDY PROBLEMS WITH THEIR CARS. HYUNDAI DOES NOT CARE. THEY DON'T CARE ABOUT THE CARS, OR THE LIVING BEINGS THAT CLIMB INTO THEIR PRODUCTS EVERYDAY.
THE BEST THING I COULD DO IS GET RID OF THIS THING. CAN I INTEREST YOU IN A BEAUTIFUL, SWEET SMOOTH RIDING, PURRS LIKE A KITTEN HYUNDAI? THOUGHT SO.

backy · August 2004

No, thanks, I already own two Elantras. Your best bet is to sell the car to your dealer--the one who doesn't admit there's anything wrong with it and won't do anything about it. Since they don't think there's anything wrong with it, they should give you top dollar, right? And if they find anything wrong when they test-drive it, like the wheel shimmy, you can tell them it's their responsibility to fix it under warranty (assumes it's still under warranty).

firemanjack · August 2004

Thanks for the information Backy. I had a problem with the title of this bulletin..It is specifically referencing "tire and wheel vibration"...not steering wheel shimmy.. that is caused by something in the front end(geez, maybe even the rearend)..They are only addressing the wheels and tires..My guess is, that this intermittent shimmy in the steering wheel is not caused by the wheels and/or tires..The key word being "intermittent". out of balance issues are not intermittent..they are constant at constant speeds. Where's the bulletin entitled..."steering wheel shimmy"? My guess is..there isn't one for one simple reason...they can't fix it..My threepence..hehe Jack

backy · August 2004

Well, I think this is one of those "hip bone connected to the leg bone" things, that is, if the steering wheel is shimmying then there's a very high likelihood that something is going on in the wheels or tires--although it could be elsewhere in the front end, including an alignment problem. As for intermittant, there was something in the TSB explaining why the problem could be intermittant, and its description of the problem looked to me a lot like the description by some posters of the problem, i.e. it occurs at only certain speeds.

IMO the evidence points to some kind of defect in one or more components, compounded by improper service practices, as opposed to a design problem. Why? If if were a design defect, the problem should be popping up in large numbers of Elantras. But it isn't. None of the many third-party reviews of the Elantra, including Edmunds.com's long-term test, have mentioned this problem. CR's reliability survey doesn't show a large number of problems in this area. There has been no NHTSA investigation of the problem. Personally, I've driven eight 2001-2004 Elantras with anywhere from zero to 28,000 miles, and none had this problem.

If it is a parts defect, my thinking is the main candidates for the problem are the tires and wheels. As for service issues, we've seen here how improper torqueing of lug nuts and failure to do recommended tire rotation seems to have an effect.

I think the tough part about this problem is that what I think we have here is multiple problems, with multiple causes, all of which manifest themselves with "wheel shimmy." So it's not just a matter of finding "the reason." Resolution takes a multi-step approach as jpryba suggested and the TSB explains.

jimijames · August 2004

My shimmy saga goes like this (sorry to repeat some of my previous posts): 03GT smooth as glass at all speeds until 13k miles when I did my first tire rotation, alignment and wheel balance. Then between 65-75 mph I picked up a horendous steering wheel shimmy... we're talking the spokes of the steering wheel oscillating at least 1/2" at its peak to barely a shiver at other times (it would come and go at constant speed). 2nd attempt by shop to fix changed the speed range from 70-75mph (rechecked alignment and tire balance also made sure to use 80ft lbs on the lugs). Third attempt = wheel shimmy cured. They completely re-balanced the wheels (i.e. pulled weights and started over) and checked RFV... 3 of 4 tires were under 18lb, 4th tire was at 23lb but still ok. Hopped on the highway and low and behold, no shimmy!

I think a number of things could've cured the problem. 1) the complete rebalance. I don't doubt that the machine said the tires were nicely balanced the 1st time, but there has to be some tolerance built into what is considered 'balanced'. the 2nd balance was probably closer to nominal than the 1st try. 2)when they took the wheels off they may have inadvertently swapped left to right (I know they didn't swap front to back because they were marked). It's also probable that they were not installed in the exact same orientation as before... i.e. picture taking a wheel off rotating it 90deg and replacing it, the wheel imbalance relative to any brake rotor rotor imbalance is no longer the same.

Which brings me to my completely uneducated opinion based on observation. There are some tolerances in the suspension setup that will allow a minor imbalance in the wheel/tire (i.e. the wheel is in spec, but on the high end of tolerance) to excite an undesired natural frequency resulting in wheel shimmy. This would explain why some elantras never have the problem (these are on one end of the suspension tolerances) and some can never be cured (these are on the other end of the tolerances). I think I was the unfortunate victim of good tire balance out of the factory, but the tire rotation and balance just happened to find that amount of imbalance that excites the shimmy with my car's particular tolerances. Ok, now I'm rambling... but the long and short of it is... if I'm right then the real problem elantras will probably never be cured by dealer visits. Only a redesign/assembly method change can cure the problem which I hope is the case with the 04's.

jpryba · August 2004

So, jimijames, do you think the suspension could be adjusted so that a minor imbalance in a tire won't cause the steering wheel to shimmy?

I think I'm going to try the "start over" approach. I'll have the tire shop rip the weights off the wheels, maybe even take the tires off the wheels and stick them back on. I will also look into on-car balancing as well. I figure this is worth another $50 or so.

jimijames · August 2004

First off, let me say that the tolerance thing is only a theory of mine based on what has happened with my car and from most of the posts here. No scientific data was collected or analyzed. I'll be the first to admit I might be dead wrong. I'm a mechanical engineer, but not in the automotive field...my observations are based on general enginnering practice. OK, lawyer speak over :-).

Most people seem to develop a shimmy over time or the shimmy appears after you upset the original configuration... e.g. tire rotation etc. Since the shimmy only seems to appear at a certain speed, about 70mph, it would appear to be related to a natural frequency of the drive line. Something as simple as the fit between the bearings and the hub can change the natural freq of the entire driveline, so I suggest that some combination of tolerances might play a role in the shimmy. When I say tolerances, it's a bit misleading because we are dealing with a stack up of many tolerances. Every part has dimensional variations which makes pinpointing one part as the cause very difficult. That also means there is no one magic adjustment, it all depends on the parts that are used to build your car and how they were assembled.

I think the "start over" approach may be worthwhile. Remounting the wheels may help if it is a radial force variation/wheel out of round problem (search for the Hunter balancer, there was a TSB a few posts back). On car balancing may work, but what happens when you have to rotate the tires? All the balancing has to be redone as well. My shimmy was huge and then it went away which says that the driveline parts are all probably ok. If yours is a minor shake that just won't go away, then something somewhere may be worn just enough... and that's the frustrating part, what is that something and where is it?

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