Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

12467113

Comments

  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    joffficer said --

    "The rear of the panel (where the noise seems to come from) is held on with two plastic rivets. How can I tighten them, or get them off?"

    Those are not plastic rivets, but are small finishing caps used to cover up the Phillips-head trim screws underneath. You can get them off by gently digging them out using a nail file (not the cheap sharp-edged kind but the nail file with slightly rounded edges).

    The trim screws will not take too much torque, however, since I believe that they screw into plastic blocks and if the threads are stripped in those blocks, you will not be able to generate any more clamping force.
  • joffficerjoffficer Posts: 169
    the whole thing comes out, or just the center?
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    Just the centre, joffficer.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    I was interested to note that others are having temperature-specific noises in their cars. I had a noise in the dash that began late last fall when temps began to drop, and am also experiencing more light rattles in my passenger door panel. A very light touch on the door as I travel over bumps stops the noise, so I am hoping just a slight turn of the screws will keep it tight. Why Hyundai doesn't seem to test cars in horrible Michigan winters on our frost-heaved and potholed roads is beyond me.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    Based on my experience with many other car makes, Hyundai isn't the only automaker that doesn't test their cars in the horrible Michigan (or Minnesota) winters. Every car I have owned had had some type of squeak or creak in cold weather that is not present in warm weather. My '01 GLS actually is doing pretty good on that score, with only the oft-mentioned passenger door squeak (haven't gotten around to turning the screws yet) and another rattle which I don't think is temperature-related. I've had much worse, including a Corolla that required much application of WD-40 and shims to repair its squeaks, and my '99 GCS, on which the side doors rattle badly in the cold (and the dealer has already replaced the door tracks once). So I'd rather have no rattles, but not bad for a $12,000 econobox.
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    Here's my 2 cents worth...

    I have had 3 Hyundais in Canada (where I am from) and in all cases they lose their trim noises in the Canadian winter.

    Two of my Hyundais (1989 and 1993) had klunk problems in the front suspension (crappy bushings?) which did not go away in winter.

    Maybe the Canadian-market Hyundais are cold-weather tested. I remember reading somewhere that some testing was done in Kapuskasing (Ontario?). It could be that the US market Hyundais are not cold-weather tested. Here in Houston, the weather never gets that cold for me to notice a change in trim noises (not much on my GT).
  • starriverstarriver Posts: 26
    After the break-in period, I tried 70MPH and unfortunately noticed that problem. I went to dealler 3 times to fix this problem. First time, they did some work very soon, I don't know what they did but probably pressure adjust and rotation. 2nd time, they did balance and alignment but it didn't work. I even regret that I did choose GLS instead of GT. 3rd time, Yesterday, they changed all 4 wheels and NO shimmy any more.
  • I have a 2002 Elantra GLS. This sound occurs every 40 seconds for about 8-10 seconds at around 40 mph or above. Does anyone else have this??? They cannot fix this after four tries. Thanks, Susan
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    How loud is this whistle? On my '01 GLS, I can hear a faint, periodic high-pitched noise from the A/C. I've never timed it, but 40 seconds sounds about right. When I posted about this on one of the Elantra forums last summer, the consensus was that it was a normal noise from the A/C condenser cycling on/off. I've noticed similar A/C noises on other cars I've owned; the noise in my Elantra is more pronounced I think because the car is quieter than other compacts I've owned. But I stress this is a faint noise. If yours is loud it could be something else.
  • I have had only three cars in my life; two of them Volkswagens, all of them hatchbacks. I wonder what my affinity for hatchbacks means?

    Car #1: 1967 VW Squareback (parents were original owners). Car #2: 1984 VW Rabbit, which finally crapped out on me this past fall after 17 years of being generally reliable.

    In October 2001 I started looking for a new car. Went to VW first of course, but they had nothing I really liked, let alone at a price I could afford with the options I wanted.

    I really liked the Saab 93, but couldn't stomach the sticker price.

    After much research, test driving, etc. I bought a silver 2002 Elantra GT 5-speed manual with all the available options. I think I paid too much for it, but I'm also having a blast in this car, so I really can't complain!

    I now have just over 4,000 miles on the car, and it had it's first service check earlier this week. I asked them about the gas hatch, because mine sticks constantly - sometimes I have to pull the release lever up to a dozen + times before it will open. The dealer said they'd never seen this problem before (HA, HA - I told them to check out this site), but they suspected it was the cable that runs between the release lever and the hatch door, not the latch itself. In any case, it seems to be working fine for the time being. We'll see if the problem resurfaces.

    My sunroof rattles a little on the right side - which I'll bring up to the dealer next time. Anyone else had problems with the sunroof?

    The RPM gauge seems to always hover at a high rev zone, even when the car is in idle and/or I'm parked.

    The odometer is very difficult/impossible to read during the daylight hours.

    The gas gauge takes about 15 minutes to read "FULL" after I fill the tank... but this has become less of an issue with time. I find that if I turn the car entirely off when I fill up, then let it sit about 5 minutes before starting up again, the gauge will read full.

    Biggest "complaint" with the car? I HATE that there is no lighting in the rear passenger/back seat area. What on earth was Hyundai thinking not to put lights in the back?

    Will be replacing the alloy wheels eventually with some nice CHROME wheels, and will probably put in an after factory stereo system as I am not overwhelmed with the factory stereo performance. Otherwise, I really am loving my car and think the exterior design is funky and fun enough to keep me interested for a long while to come.

    Heck, it even looks like the Saab 93 - without sending me to the poor house!
    :-)

    Thanks everyone for your comments/reviews here... I've gotten a lot of useful info!

    Cheers, Cheryl
  • yardbirdyardbird Posts: 30
    Does anybody know of any fix to a seat belt that won't retract(short of bringing it back in under warranty)??
    My driver side seat belt will not retract back in, making the snugness very lax and looking like a bent-out-of-shape rubber band(not to mention safety).
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Your best bet is to go back to the dealer and have the retractor replaced. I am not sure how good your dealer is about warranty work, but mine would simply replace it. This is smart from a customer service standpoint and also for Hyundai, because if they see defect claims they can (hopefully) take corrective action. More importantly, your dealer should understand it as a safety issue.
  • The whistle isn't loud, but it is very high-pitched. It cycles every 45-48 seconds and lasts for 8-10 seconds. It is painful to hear (like a dog whistle to a dog!!!). It increases in intensity as the car increases in speed and heats up, especially when I have gotten up to over 40 mph. Susan
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    The seat belts should be covered under the government-mandated passive restraint system warranty, which I think runs even longer than the 5 year/60,000 mile bumper-to-bumper warranty. Check your warranty booklet for details. In any case, it is a safety hazard and you can portray it as such to the dealer to get quick action.

    Re A/C whistle, that is defintely not the same noise as my Elantra has--mine has a soft high-pitched noise that is not hard to listen to at all. I wonder if it could be a slipping belt on the A/C? They can make high-pitched noises. What does the dealer say about it? If they claim it is normal, ask to drive another car off their lot with the mechanic with you to see if it has the same noise.
  • litolpealitolpea Posts: 4
    howdie all. i am reading through the posts, and actually printing them out to bring to my dealership later this month, since i am experiencing the infamous door rattle and fuel door stick as well.
    hey, all cars have quirks, and that is why warranties were made. haha. anyhooo...
    i only have 9000 miles on my car and i am starting to get a grinding noise when i stop. not when i ease into a stop mind you..but if i stop on a hill, or come to a sudden stop OR when i start to ease to a stop, then press a little harder on the brakes for the final stop...
    i only got the car, brand new, in sept. and since then, i have taken a road trip to colorado (from ohio) and have driven into the mountains, as well as across kansas in a white out snow storm..
    all the time the car performed FLAWLESSLY. i even had my 6k check before i left colorado and they said all was fine...

    do you think that this trip may have caused this?
    should rotors/brakes go bad within a year? i have never had that happen before with my other cars..
    i am assuming rotors and brakes are a wear and tear item not covered by warranty? is this true? (i am new to the warranty scene)...
    and if it is true...if they go bad within a year, isnt that justification to have them covered?

    ps.. i have a 2001 elantra gls...

    thanks!
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    Is it grinding or squealing? The difference is significant.
    Also, has the actual stopping performance changed, i.e. is it taking longer to stop?
    Is this grinding coming from the front (disc) brakes or from the drums (rear)?
    If from the front, are the rotors scored?

    Disc brakes squeal even when there is a lot of 'meat' on the pads. To correct this, anti-squeal compound is put on the backs of the pads.

    When they get worn down, the wear indicators cause a deliberate squealing, telling the owner that they need to be changed.

    If it is a squeal and you have a lot of pad left (which you should after only 9000 miles) and the rotor is not scored, then try spraying the pads with brake cleaner and see if that helps.

    Brakes are a wear and tear item and would not normally be covered under warranty, as far as I know. At best they might pro-rate your brakes, but I would bet that they don't have to.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    Most (all?) states have laws that govern "implied" warranties on products. I am not a lawyer, but an implied warranty is basically an informal warranty to the effect "the product should perform in a certain way under normal condiitons, and if it fails to do that the manufacturer must fix it." One example would be brakes. Brakes on modern cars are expected to last far longer than 9000 miles under normal conditions. If your dealer balks at fixing the brakes under the regular warranty, you might take it up the ladder and claim that it is implied that brakes will last longer than that. I haven't read the whole Hyundai warranty lately (and I'm not going to go out in my cold garage at this time of night and do that), but it is possible that there is a clause in it that negates "implied" warranties.
  • yardbirdyardbird Posts: 30
    Got the problem solved. Apparently the belt had twisted around causing the retraction to drag.I could'nt figure how to untwist it cause there was so little room in the "buckle slit" which feeds the belt through behind my left shoulder. I got advice saying to pull the belt all the way out till I reach the end-of-the-line. The twist popped around and corrected itself. Good as new!
  • litolpealitolpea Posts: 4
    hey guys..thanks for the info on my brake rotor deal...and to answer your q, it is a not a squeal. it is a dull grind/smudge like sound (for lack of better description..)
    only when it completes the stop..
    i havent noticed anything different in the braking patterns tho..
    and i checked out hyundais warranty and they are covered for a year or 12000 miles.
    i agree with backy tho, they should last way longer than 9k miles...so even if i had more than 12k on it, i would fight it. hehehe
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    I just read your brake noise dilemma. If your car is automatic, could it just be the normal "tug" of the engine resisting your brake pedal pressure? Does it stop if you press harder on the brake or shift to neutral? Just wondering ...
  • joffficerjoffficer Posts: 169
    I used my A/C today for the first time (15 miles trip), and noticed a metallic scraping/grinding noise as others have posted. It's very light, and only comes on with the compressor. I tried to duplicate the sound by keeping the engine at 2200 rpm (in a parking lot), but it seems it only happens while driving (the compressor cycled on and off during my check).
    Did anyone get this repaired... what did it turn out to be?
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    Took my '01 GLS in for its oil/filter change and asked then to check on the squeaking sound from depressing the clutch, and also to check out a rattle. They made short work of the clutch squeak by replacing the throw bearing in the tranny--works great now. But when they called me to tell me my car was ready, the service writer said the tech determined the rattle was a "normal sound for all manual transmission cars." LOL! I respectfully disagreed and I went for a drive with the tech when I got to the dealership. After a five-minute drive in which the rattle popped off just as I told them it would, the tech was convinced it was not normal. I told him about the conduit under the dash that was traced to a rattle by someone on one of the Elantra boards here, in case it would help. It seems to be deep in the dash or even in the engine compartment. Anyway, I'm going to leave the car with them all day tomorrow and let them sniff around (using their shuttle service to/from the office).
  • joffficerjoffficer Posts: 169
    I got Hyundai's top model for the morning while they installed my spoiler. Nice car...but not crazy about the drive by wire set up (too touchy)
  • Hi all,

    I guess this could be my first problem on my 01 Elantra GLS. My driver side front left yellow reflector light went out. What I don't know how to do is replace the bulb. Do you have to remove the yellow plastic lenses. If so how do you do that?

    Any help would be appreciated.

    Happy motoring

    Shawn
  • ross2764ross2764 Posts: 3
    2002 Elantra, currently about 5000 miles. Starting about a month ago, 2nd to 3rd gear shifts very clunky especially when cold. Feels like tranny is going to fall out. Also, tranny doesn't downshift and feels like it is searching for which gear to be in. If I had to describe the process I would say it was "Hunting and clunking". Anyone else have similar experiences? I am going to make an appointment soon (very busy). This is the fourth service related issue with my vehicle. Car delivered with an unbalanced wheel. Next visit for a broken windshield wiper motor. Another visit for a broken power mirror motor and now I have to make appointment for a transmission that feels like it is failing. This combined with all the rattles and buzzes described in previous posts is making me feel like I made a poor decision purchasing this vehicle.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    My Elantra is now rattle-free! I left it with my dealer's senior Hyundai tech all day (no, jofficer, I did not take them up on their offer of a free loaner but instead rode their door-to-door shuttle to work; I'd have to pay $15.00/day for parking for the loaner car, plus gas). They traced the rattle to two A/C lines rubbing together. While they were at it, they also retorqued all the suspension and chassis bolts and tied down the fuel line. Whatever they did, I can hardly believe the difference. The car feels brand-new, like it's carved out of a solid block of steel again. And with the new throwout bearing in the tranny, the clutch is butter-smooth. The car would be darned-near perfect now if it were not for the dog puke interior. 8-)

    P.S. Anyone in the Twin Cities looking for a GLS or GT, looks like Denny Hecker's Rosedale Hyundai has lots of them, all lined up out front. They have lots of Sonatas on the lot too.
  • jimbeaumijimbeaumi Posts: 620
    Thanks for the info on rattle-relief. When it comes to interior noises I have been conditioned to not bother asking service folks to locate the source(s); most can't seem to duplicate, or claim that. I might just take a copy of your comments and see about getting it done. Mine are so minor, but the quiet interior makes them noticeable (and I want ONLY silence).

    Approaching 11,000 miles with no problems; in fact, Betsy III seems as smooth and quick as new.
  • wmoseswmoses Posts: 212
    ross2764 said --

    "This is the fourth service related issue with my vehicle. Car delivered with an unbalanced wheel. Next visit for a broken windshield wiper motor. Another visit for a broken power mirror motor and now I have to make appointment for a transmission that feels like it is failing. This combined with all the rattles and buzzes described in previous posts is making me feel like I made a poor decision purchasing this vehicle."

    I am sorry to hear of the troubles you are having with this car. Maybe if this were to persist you should consider trying to get the car replaced under the "Lemon Law".

    Not all Hyundais have the problems you are having. For instance, I have had 4 since 1989 and have not had any of the problems that you have had. My problems had to do with crappy busings in the 1989 Sonata and 1993 Elantra GL that "going" and leading to clunking in the suspension. This was essentially cured in my 1996 Elantra.

    My 2002 GT has no problems thus far and I have over 5000 miles on mine as well.
  • backybacky Twin CitiesPosts: 18,784
    Well, the rattle/buzz at around 2500 rpm when lifting off the clutch has returned, after being banished for half-a-day. It does seem to be lessened from before, but it's defintely there and shows up in the same circumstances. I called the Hyundai service manager today to give her the bad news. She said she'd tell the Hyundai senior tech, and I'll bring it back for another try in a few days, when a part I ordered comes in. It felt so good when this noise was gone, I want to kill it for good.
  • ohiohoboohiohobo Posts: 1
    I purchased a 2001 Elantra in May of 2001. In January 2002 with 12,401 miles on the car I had to replace both low beam bulbs. Today, is April 14, 2002 and I noticed that the low beam on the driver side is out again. Has anyone seen this issue before? I drive with my headlights on at all times but I have never seen bulbs burn out this quickly.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.