Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

crsher2002 · February 2006

I have a '02 Elantra GT and live in New England. Recently, with the very cold weather, my emergency brake has become stuck in the on position. Upon release, there is sever inches of free play before the wratchet lock kicks in. Any comments?

backy · February 2006

How often do you use the parking brake? I read a "car care" article in my local paper recently where the resident car expert said that you should either use the parking brake every time you park, or not at all (with an automatic tranny car). His rationale is that the brake cable self-lubes when it is used frequently, but if not ussed much it rusts and then can freeze up. I remember reading this because I don't use the parking brake much on my automatic-tranny vehicles.

newsview · February 2006

"I know it [the abnormal engine noise] could be anything, but is it normal for the timing belt tensioner to make some noise? If not, and if it's the timing belt tensioner, do they prematurely (infant mortality) fail occasionally? Another possible source may be the AC belt tensioner, below the AC compressor. Or, possibly even the alternator bearing. I know I'm grabbing at straws here, but it certainly doesn't sound normal, and neither my wife or I have heard it until today, as the engine (not exhaust) seems to make more noise even at idle than before. "

Me Too!!!!!!  a reply:

I've been searching these forums and elsewhere for 5 years looking for someone who has found a solution to what sounds like the same problem. Some of my passengers have compared the noise to the Autotopia cars that are at Disneyland. In any event, I'm surprised to hear that five model years later, the same problem exists (but seemingly for a small minority of us).

With respect to my 2001 Elantra, it too started exhibiting a change in engine noise within the first 300 miles. I probably have qualified for lemon law because the car has been in the shop at least a dozen times for an average of three days at a time since I purchased the car new in August '01. I even got corporate involved at one point and they replaced the motor mounts (probably a good thing, but it didn't help). At another point I took it to an independent mechanic who listened to the engine noise and suggested that it might be valve related. I then took my car to a different dealer (than the one from whom I purchased). A mechanic at the new dealership also pinned it on the valves, but the corporate rep came the next day and released the car back to me saying that they didn't find any problem with the valves following their inspection (the valves are apparently pre-set by shims on the 2001 model year). Later, at the suggestion of the Hyundai customer service department at corporate, I even had my exhaust manifold checked after learning that there is a voluntary recall campaign. Yet I am told that my car's exhaust manifold does not need replacement. (If the exhaust manifold was to crack, I have no idea what sort of sound it would make, and how it might compare to what I am about to describe. Can someone fill me in on that? I'm thinking about having the exhaust manifold checked again.)

What I hear: It sounds like frog-in-the-throat or tumbling gravel overlaying the normal engine sounds. Some have even compared the noise to the pelting sound of large raindrops falling rapidly on the hood. From the driver's seat, it seems to originate from somewhere right of midline under the hood. Usually it happens during the first drive of the day, but other times it does not. In the coldest weather I can hear it a bit at startup, but after I leave my driveway the noise is only evident when I accelerate and NOT while waiting at a stop. I hear it from 0-40 mph, and it seems to speed up in tandem with the idle, until about 40mph when engine noise drowns it out.

The noise always presents itself on subsequent drives providing that the car has been sitting in relatively cool temps for ~4 hours (cool ambient temps being anything below about 74 degrees). In the hotter weather of the summer it is quieter or even seemingly absent in the day, but regardless of the season it always seems more pronounced at night. I feel that the problem is more noticeable at night because of the heavy condensation that is present in my area after dark. Perhaps the weather-related observations are related to the degree to which the offending parts expand and contract?

Over the past five years the noise has grown louder and I no longer have trouble getting the techs to hear it. Even passengers have commented. It fades out as the engine reaches operating temps. Depending on the outdoor temps and when the car was last driven, the noise persists from as little as 3 minutes to as long as 15 minutes.

In addition to what you mentioned, I read that a weak oil pump can trigger valve train noise. But the dealer refuses to perform a leak-down test or any other such effort because there is no code in the computer to suggest a malfunction. The only "solution" I've encountered to what sounded like the same problem was somebody from Germany who wrote on this forum a year or two ago that replacing a faulty timing belt tensioner eliminated what sounded like slack that develops before the engine warms up. But my dealer has explained that they can't go on a hunting expedition in effort to troubleshoot this problem because if they pull parts that are later determined to be fully functional, they don't get reimbursed for their labor costs by corporate (my car has low miles and is still under full warranty). In fact, I actually have a message on my voicemail from the service manager following my last repair attempt saying that "until something breaks" I should just continue to enjoy and drive the car. So the problem continues, yet I never see a check engine light. Even so, I don't think this is normal because when I've posted here and elsewhere over the past few years I don't get a lot of "me too" replies.

Yet another mystery is a thumping sound from the rear brake area while at a stop. If my foot isn't firmly planted on the brake, I sometimes hear what sounds like what I imagine it would sound like if someone were trapped in the trunk and banging their fist on the floor to get out. I am assuming that the ABS is grabbing, but the dealer hasn't even ventured an educated guess. Some have pointed out that this happens with drum brakes, but this observation doesn't apply to me because the ABS-equipped model has 4 wheel disc brakes.

Does any of this ring true for you or anyone else reading this?

1racefan · February 2006

"(If the exhaust manifold was to crack, I have no idea what sort of sound it would make, and how it might compare to what I am about to describe. Can someone fill me in on that? I'm thinking about having the exhaust manifold checked again.) "

It is a pretty distinct sound. I say that it sounds kind of like a "helicopter under the hood" - or a "put put put" sound. If you suspect this is your problem, you could always take it to a muffler specialist (such as Meineke) to have them inspect it (assuming your dealer is telling you it is fine, but you want a second opinion).

doohickie · February 2006

I've heard that this is common on Elantras that have seen 3 or more northern winters. It should be covered under warranty if you have less than 60k miles. I don't think they will count brakes as part of the drivetrain for the 100k warranty.

What happens is that water gets past the boot on the end of the e-brake cable. If it is salty water from road salt, the cable rusts from the inside. Lubing the cable at the boot could provide temporary relief, but your cable really needs to be replaced.

w9cw and newsview: 1racefan describes the cracked manifold pretty well. When it first cracks, it sounds like a ticking and grows louder with time. When the manifold on my Escort cracked, it made the most noise when cold (like your car) and sometimes made the noise and sometimes not (like your car) and got worse with time (like your car). There was a symptom you haven't mentioned, though: when it was making the most noise, there would be an oily or rich burning exhaust smell under the hood.

snakeweasel · February 2006

I recently had the exhaust manifold crack on mine. It made no noise at all. The only issue I had when it first happened was that the idle increased (around 1,000 rpm's when stopped in gear) and it ran rough. It then proceeded to hesitate and/or stall when accelerating.

All through this no noise and no noticeable smells from the exhaust.

FWIW I never knew about the TSB on the exhaust manifolds and only found out about it from my mechanic when he went to look for a replacement. To Hyundais credit they replaced it free of charge no questions asked even though I was 30k miles past the warranty.

backy · February 2006

There is a 10-year, unlimited mileage warranty against cracking of the exhaust manifold on 1999-2002 Elantras. It covers Elantras made through January 31, 2002. If you paid for a manifold replacement, you can get reimbursed from Hyundai.

jlflemmons · February 2006

I had this problem on the '02 model and sat with a really good mechanic from Hyundai while he described what was happening.

The timing belt drives one cam only. There is a tensioner, and it can make noise if the timing belt has not streched evenly. The tensioner will still work, but it is moving back and forth rapidly to take up the slack and can cause a slapping/clacking sort of noise.

The second cam is chain driven by the first. Upon start up, and before moving the car, you can get a lifter like noise coming from the drivers side end of the head. Generally goes away once the car is driven. While disconcerting, this particular dealer has not seen a failure related to this condition, and they sell and service a LOT of Elantras.

The CVVT engine does not display the same condition due to the difference in the operation of the valve train. I only put 42K miles on the '02 before I had to replace it with an auto, but I had zero engine problems.

The earlier answers on the cracked manifold are dead-on. The noise will first sound like a hard puff-puff or tick-tick sound, but as the crack widens it will get louder and louder until it is obvious you have a major exhaust leak.

newsview · February 2006

" I had this problem on the '02 model and sat with a really good mechanic from Hyundai while he described what was happening.

The timing belt drives one cam only. There is a tensioner, and it can make noise if the timing belt has not stretched evenly. The tensioner will still work, but it is moving back and forth rapidly to take up the slack and can cause a slapping/clacking sort of noise.

The second cam is chain driven by the first. Upon start up, and before moving the car, you can get a lifter like noise coming from the drivers side end of the head. Generally goes away once the car is driven. While disconcerting, this particular dealer has not seen a failure related to this condition, and they sell and service a LOT of Elantras. "

Thanks for the tip, jlflemmons.

I asked a corporate "master tech" about this possibility about a year back and he said he had never heard of such an explanation. I find it hard to believe that Hyundai has no familiarity with my problem. If my experience puts me in the minority  meaning most other Elantra owners, even of the same model year, will not experience this  I wonder how come the dealer in your example still maintains that there will be no breakdown triggered by the anomaly? Isn't this more akin to a bad tooth? Yes, you can ignore it for awhile and it will continue to function, but if you do it will be a root canal (and a huge bill) later.

The only thing I will have after the warranty is up is a service history filled with identical complaints that are never resolved. Without the dealer pinpointing the cause while the car is still covered by the warranty, I don't know how the mere presence of the "symptoms" in my service history can be used to compel them to fix whatever results down the line from doing nothing "until something breaks" as my service manager advised. They can always argue that because they never decided on the culprit in the first place that whatever I am currently experiencing with the car  let's say a catastrophic engine malfunction in another five years  may have nothing to do with what I reported in the past.

Oh, and when I told the dealer that I was going to take my car to an independent mechanic to diagnose the problem, they suggested, in not so many words, that if they find any new problems with my vehicle after it has spent time at a non-authorized repair center they may deem that the independent mechanic has caused the problem, which implies that my warranty may be in jeopardy. In effect, if the the independent mechanic says the lifters are bad, and contradicts the corporate rep who says they are not, they may argue that the mere fact that I had someone in there inspecting the valves triggered the problem that I document and come back to have them fix under warranty.

My hands are tied!!!!!

I'm wondering if it is too late in California to file lemon law, or even if lemon law would apply to me since I continue to have a "reliable" car even though it has spent a lot of time in the shop.

gomoku_2000 · February 2006

Greetings.

I live in Orlando, FL, and own a 2005 Elantra GT hatchback. I am being asked to pay $250 for the 15K mile service. I have checked two Hyundai dealers, they're within $10 of each other.

Apparently, they sell 2 services, one for about $120, the other for the balance. The $120 is the "Hyundai recommended" one, the other one is "dealer recommended" for "Central Florida conditions", presumably weather-based.

Can anybody confirm whether this is standard operating practice nationwide, whether these prices are "reasonable", whether I should just spring for the basic service and call it a day, or what.

Any input appreciated.

Sorry if this belongs on the "prices paid" board.

Thanks in advance.

Gomoku

backy · February 2006

It's common in my area (Minnesota) too, except the dealers here don't even offer a "Hyundai recommended" service package. Instead, I have to go through the maintenance schedule with the service writer and have him/her delete any service that is not on Hyundai's list of required services. But the cost difference is about what you described.

What are some of the extra "Central Florida" services that they recommend at 15,000 miles? One to watch out for is "throttle body cleaning." That isn't necessary and in fact Hyundai even recommends against it.

jlflemmons · March 2006

Backy is right on about the throttle body cleaning. Hyundai even issued a TSB to the dealers telling them to leave it alone.

15K service is usually an oil change, external belt check, fluid top off, check the brakes, and that is about it. No emissions testing or other computer based work is performed, at least not in Texas.

It is unfortunate, but many dealers of all brands have started using these "inspections" to upsell services that may not be needed. On another forum there was a discussion over changing the high capacity air filter in a GM truck. The filter is huge, has an airflow restriction monitor, and in normal conditions can easily go 50K miles without replacement. Probably one of the best non-industrial air filtration systems I have ever seen on a vehicle. And yet, dealers and quicky oil change places will try to sell a replacement every 15K. It is all about profiting from those who do not read the owners manual.

Another GM dealer was pushing transmission service at 15K intervals. I pointed out to them that under high-temp, towing conditions, GM recommended 30K. And they were charging $169 for the fluid and filter change, a 30 minute job.

That dealer no longer has a GM franchise. Wonder why?

jmoore8 · March 2006

I have gone 32-35 miles after the low fuel lite comes on

backy · March 2006

OK... I won't even ask how you know that.

doohickie · March 2006

Since you're a long-time Elantra owner, I'm curious as to whether you've ever used fuel injector cleaner.

I somehow got the brilliant idea that it would help. So I decided that I would use some every 7500 miles. Well I passed 7500 last week and poured some stuff in (Chevron FI Cleaner). Seemed fine I guess.

About 3/4 of the tank goes by uneventfully, then the Check Engine Light went on (Doh!) I filled the tank, took it to AutoZone for a read on the light: P0172- running too rich- and the AutoZone guy suggests pulling the battery cable to try to reset the light.

So that's what I did. And the CEL went back out (whew!) So now I've gotten 130 miles out of the first quarter tank; that's usually almost a half tank for me. So now I'm wondering what all happened.

Was the code related to the cleaner? Was it just coincidence? Did the cleaner improve my mileage, or was it just because of the ECM reset? :confuse:

For the time being, the car is running better than ever, so I'm just gonna keep driving it. If my mileage is in fact improved, I'll be happy since that's been my biggest beef with the car. If it drops off in several thousand miles, though, the question becomes: Reset the ECM or add more FI cleaner?

backy · March 2006

I use FI cleaner (usually Gumout's) about every 3000 miles on my cars (they are driven only 6000-9000 mi/year). I am happy with the engine performance and fuel economy of both my Elantras, so if it ain't broke, I won't fix it...

doohickie · March 2006

So no CEL, huh? Even on the 04? I suspect what happened is this: I know there is adaptive technology in the Elantras. Perhaps early on I taught it some "bad habits" which gave me poor mileage; maybe by flooring it too much it made it run rich and the FI cleaner pushed just over the brink and the CEL came on. Upon a clean reset, and driving the car more conservatively, it seems to be getting much better mileage. By 300 miles I'm ready to fill up; this tank looks like it might go to 400 and this is in mixed driving. It would be sweet to be able to finally claim to break the 30 mpg mark. Just gotta take it easy for the rest of this tank...

backy · March 2006

Well, I did have two CELs on my '01 GLS, quite awhile ago. The first was traced to a gas cap that was not tightened enough (DW filled the tank for me, bless her heart). The second was due to a failed rear O2 sensor (replaced under warranty). No CELs on the 2-year-old '04 GT yet--no problems on that car whatsoever except a cloudy headlight cover (replaced under warranty) and a broken sun visor (replaced under warranty even though it had, uh, help getting broken). Oh, and I did the two recalls (gas line and OCS) but the OCS was working fine when I took it in and I don't know if they actually had to do anything on the gas line recall. I just bought some factory-matched spray paint and clearcoat for it, and I can't wait for some warmer weather so I can touch up a couple of scrapes on the front and rear bumpers and make it look like new again (well, after I have some small dings removed via PDR and do its spring cleanup it will look like new again).

snakeweasel · March 2006

I have noticed that when my low fuel light comes on I have about 3 gallons left. But truth be told I think I see that light about once a year.

snakeweasel · March 2006

The fuel injector cleaner most likely had nothing to do with it. My guess is that it is just a coincidence of timing. Truth be told gas has cleaning agents in it that will keep the fuel system, including fuel injectors, clean. I have gone over 130k miles without using fuel injector cleaner and have had no issues. I personally am in the camp that fuel injector cleaners are little more than snake oil.

backy · March 2006

Oh well, for $6-9 a year per car, at least the snake oil isn't putting a major crimp in my budget.

snakeweasel · March 2006

"A billion here, a billion there--pretty soon, you're talking real money" - Senator Everett Dirksen

jlflemmons · March 2006

The only thing I can reason on the CEL would be that the cleaner affected the O2 sensor (which is where the rich/lean condition is monitored)and once the concentration level was lessened by more fuel the condition went away. One of these days I will get bored enough to really look into how the O2 sensor works, but I suspect it is somehow temp related as there are codes that will set if the sensor doesn't come up to operating temp fast enough.

I know lots of folks whine about the complexity of these control systems, but if you step back and look at the big picture they are really pretty cool. Imagine 30 years ago if you told someone you had a 2.0L engine that developed 130+ HP without a turbo/super, that would make 30+MPG at 70MPH in a five passenger car, have emissions so low you could run it in a closed garage (don't try this. even though the numbers support the non-lethal level of emissions, no reason to be stupid)and was durable enough to allow a 100K warranty.

You would have been laughed out of the room.

backy · March 2006

So you are saying that regular use of FI cleaner caused the O2 sensor to fail? The computer diagnostics reported a failure, and the sensor was replaced. This was after I had used the FI cleaner several times, and actually it didn't happen right after an application of the FI cleaner. And the 2nd O2 sensor has worked fine for about four years, while I have continued to use FI cleaner. I guess I don't see the relationship between the O2 sensor failure and the use of FI cleaner.

jlflemmons · March 2006

No, not that it caused the failure, what I am thinking is that if the cleaner is overconcentrated (the old "If a pint is good, a quart should be better" mode)it may cause the sensor to read an over-rich condition. O2 sensors are actually very tough and a lot of the "failures" that get replaced are not failures at all, but the sensor seeing a problem that may be mis-diagnosed.

Generally speaking, if a solid state electronics device is going to fail, barring outside event like lightening, they will fail pretty quick. The standard for televisions has been that if they work without problem for the first 100hours of operation, they will GENERALLY be good for about 10 years.

backy · March 2006

I see. Well, I always follow the instructions on the bottle--one bottle per full tank--so I would be surprised if FI cleaner is the culprit in the failed O2 sensor. And it did happen fairly early in the car's life.

97993 · March 2006

that dealership is trying to rip you off...i would write to the hyundai regional office or the head office in california. i have a '01 gls with 80k and have done all scheduled maintenance work myself and the local dealership has never given me problems with warranty work. most of the early "scheduled check ups" consist of an oil and filter change with visual check this or that.

dk
from syracuse, ny

doohickie · March 2006

An update on my own FI cleaner situation. To review, I used some cleaner at 7,500 miles and got the CEL (running rich). Whether they were related or not, who knows, but I reset the CEL by disconnecting the battery. That was a little over a week ago, and I got through the whole week without filling up (rare for me; I usually fill up every 5 days give or take). So I filled up this morning and got 27.9 mpg in mixed driving; by far the best I ever got in mixed driving

.

Whether the CEL was due to the FI cleaner or just because the car was, in fact, running rich is hard to say. Whether the mpg improvement was cased by the FI cleaner or the CEL, who knows? But it got great mileage this tankful, hopeful a sign of things to come.

On the other hand, 15 miles after filling up, I got another CEL (assuming it's the gas cap leak, even though I know for sure it was not loose. What a pain in the @$$. :mad: )

excessus · March 2006

My fog-free button on the main panel suddenly stopped working, so on the first revision I told the dealer that this had to be repaired. They did, but the button now doesnt make any noise like the other buttons. A/C, outside temperature, everything makes a sounding BLIP but this button. The cheek, the dealer says that no Elantra makes a BLIP noise on *that* especific button, the fog-free one. If you have a Elantra... a new one... can you please tell me if your car makes a BLIP noise if the button is pressed, so I can throw a lawyer to that looser? Thanks in advance.

doohickie · March 2006

If that is on the automatic climate control, that is not available in the U.S., so I don't think we can help. None of the button blip on the manual system.

1racefan · March 2006

I assumed they were referring to the rear window defroster button, but the post was a little vague.

backy · March 2006

I'd appreciate some input from you mechanically-minded Elantra owners. I noticed tonight when I drove my '01 GLS 5-speed that the clutch picked up very high off the floor, which is not normal. Then after driving it for about a mile and shifting a few times, it seemed to act normal. I hadn't driven the car for about a week so I asked my teen-aged son, the main driver of the car, if he had noticed anything unusual. He said he noticed that behavior starting a couple of days ago. Then I asked him if he had any idea why it might have started acting that way, e.g. any hard shifts, grinding the clutch etc. He got a little defensive of course, but said that before this behavior started, he had pushed the clutch in and out twice, by mistake. He didn't remember if the car was in gear at the time. He said there was no grinding sound when he did it.

Any ideas what might be amiss? I paid $1300 for a new clutch last August (it "shattered" from abuse according to the dealer; my son and wife admitted to having several hard shifts with it) and it is still under a one-year warranty. My son swears up and down that he no longer abuses the clutch, but I am thinking seriously about selling this car after it is repaired and getting him an old slushbox beater.

xendlessinyx · March 2006

Hi everyone,
I have a 04 Elantra that has about 17k.
I just bought it a month ago from this private seller.
By the way, I noticed rattles from two different sources.
One from the rearview mirror, it would vibrate, when the road gets bumpy.
The other rattle of unknown source will appear, when I accelerate. It only appears when I hit around 1800 to 2000 rpm and It would disappear. What would this be?
Anyone experienced the same problem? :confuse:

P.S.: for the rearview mirror replacement, do I go any Hyundai dealer? would they take care of my problem without charges, although I didnt buy car from them?

backy · March 2006

Hard to know what to say about the rattle without knowing where in the car it is, what it sounds like etc. As for the mirror, if the car is still under warranty (e.g. the car does not have a "salvage" title), the dealer should fix it. Same with the rattle--technically, rattles and other "adjustments" are covered only for the first 1 year/12k miles, but I had good luck having dealers look into rattles for free all the way through the 5 year/60k warranty.

They had mixed success, however.

Rattles can be really hard to track down. And of course, the rattles almost always disappear when you bring it to the dealer.

doohickie · March 2006

Are you sure it's the mirror? Could it be the sunglass case just behind it? Funny thing about rattles: The sound can travel. It could be something from your center console echoing of your windshield or something weird like that.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2006

high clutch pedal is usually a sign of excessive clutch disk wear---the clutch material has worn off the face of the clutch plate so the pedal has to travel longer to make an engagement.

You can test the clutch by running uphill in too high a gear, like 3rd or 4th when you should be in 2nd (lugging the engine). If it slips, your clutch has had it.

backy · March 2006

Thanks for the tip, I will try that later (if I can find a hill in my flat town). Does it make sense with the worn clutch that the clutch pedal is too high when the car starts out, but after a mile or so it shifts normally (i.e. much closer to the floor)? That is what is strange about this case.

BTW the clutch was new last August, has maybe 4k miles on it.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2006

well that is kind of weird. You might check your hydraulic clutch fluid and see if it is very dark and dirty. Maybe flushing that will help. Also your hydraulic clutch slave cylinder actuator arm might be somewhat adjustable.

backy · March 2006

OK, will check that. But the fluid was flushed and replaced in August also. It would be nice if the problem could be solved by adjusting an actuator arm.

backy · March 2006

Update: had the clutch checked by the dealer today. They found nothing amiss. The problem has not recurred since last Thursday. Clutch does not slip going uphill. Strange.

Mr_Shiftright · March 2006

maybe a burp from an air bubble.

lhinds · March 2006

I have the problem on 3 doors, just the vertical strips in the bottom right corner of the window which is covered under warranty to repair. I Took it to the dealer and they said they need to take off the tinted window vent/shades I installed long before the problem occurred and it's gonna cost $25. Plus if any film comes off the top section of the doors while removing the vent/shades,they wont replace it under warranty. I know it's not a huge issue but was wondering if they are right & what others thought. Thanks

backy · March 2006

I think their position is reasonable, since the shades are aftermarket. Maybe you could remove the shades yourself, or have the original installer do it, to avoid this issue?

lhinds · March 2006

Granted the shades are aftermarket but they need to be removed due to a Hyundai defect. I'm thinking that I'll take them off myself but I'm worried that I'll damage the film underneath and end up having to pay them to repair that. No idea how much that would cost but I do know they will take off the shades for $25 and replace them for $125. Doesn't make sence to me.

inharmsway · March 2006

Hi. I have a right parking light bulb and the bulb that light the temp. dial on the right of the climate control cluster go out. When I hit the panel next to them with the palm of my hand, they come on again. What would cause this, and is it covered under warranty? This is two completely different places on the car, and therefore is pussling to me. 2004 GT 5-speed.
Niels

backy · March 2006

Well, sounds like you already are decided on approach and what you deem to be reasonable by the dealer. Good luck.

backy · March 2006

Since it's not the bulbs but some kind of electrical system issue, it should be covered under warranty.

inharmsway · March 2006

Thanks Backy.
Niels

teddy_mak · March 2006

backy

I have a new Elantra GLS and note that the front seats ae asymetrical. The service dept says the outside bolsters are less supportive to allow owners to slip in and out more easily. I can feel this asymmetry when driving. Perhaps that is the noted problem. I'm thinking of having an inside bolster replace the existing outside bolster. we'll see.

backy · March 2006

Very interesting! I've driven Elantras for 5-1/2 years and never noticed this. Maybe it depends on one's girth, i.e. how hard you press into the upper bolsters.

It's also interesting that Hyundai would go to this level of detail on the seat design for an "econobox."

Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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