Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

newsview · August 2006

Wow, that's an eye opener, jlflemmons. Organic pads? Smaller, too? Assuming it holds true for the ABS model in 2001, I might have a better explanation than anything the dealer gave me. (The thumping might not be a brake wear issue after all, in that case.)

And Backy's right, too. I've asked to speak to the techs and the service advisors typically say they are too busy and that because of insurance reasons I can't walk out to the service bays, either (does anyone else get that one?). I tried another dealer, over 30 miles away and they were friendly but didn't want to pick up the problems that the other dealer left unresolved. So I feel kind of trapped. Three other dealers that used to be in my geographic area have all closed now, so my choices are narrowing.

snakeweasel · August 2006

and that because of insurance reasons I can't walk out to the service bays, either (does anyone else get that one?).

It is an insurance company issue, keep the customer outside the service area (an area where they are more likely to be hurt) and your insurance costs are kept down. Allow customers there and your rates skyrocket. One way to drive your insurance underwriter crazy is to have them see customers in the service bay area.

jlflemmons · August 2006

One way around the insurance issue is to ask the service manager to escort you out to see the tech. I am lucky in that having grown up in a service dept., the shop lets me come back whenever I want. Shoot, I even helped one of the techs debug an electronics issue one morning!

I may work in the high tech sector, but I am still a wrench wonk at heart.

snakeweasel · August 2006

One way around the insurance issue is to ask the service manager to escort you out to see the tech.

Nope the insurance companies don't like that either. They want the customer completely out of there for liability issues.

jlflemmons · August 2006

I wonder how NTB handles this. They have signs in all the stores I have been in stating customers are welcome in the shop. Having seen some of their screw-ups, I don't let them touch one of my cars unless I am standing right there.

snakeweasel · August 2006

Not sure, maybe their insurance company doesn't know, maybe they are paying the higher insurance rates.

doohickie · August 2006

that with the proportioning valve design on the Elantra, the rear brakes *do* in fact tend to wear out before the fronts.

Not to sure about that, still on the original back brakes with near 140K miles. Changed the fronts at least three times.

And you have a 2000 if I remember correctly. Lots of changes for the 2001 model year.

doohickie · August 2006

One way around the insurance issue is to ask the service manager to escort you out to see the tech. I am lucky in that having grown up in a service dept., the shop lets me come back whenever I want. Shoot, I even helped one of the techs debug an electronics issue one morning!

I may work in the high tech sector, but I am still a wrench wonk at heart.

I second that. When my battery was replaced under warranty, the techs were busy. The service writer tested the battery and determined it was bad. While she went back to get a new battery, I got my wrenches out of the back and took out the old one. When she brought the new battery out, I popped it into the car and put it all back together. The whole process from when I pulled in to when I pulled out was probably about 15 minutes. I like a dealer that's flexible that way. And from the front of the shop, you can see all the bays anyway.

w9cw · August 2006

I've been in the service area of my Hyundai dealer on two occasions. And, with my local SAAB-only dealer located in a very small town (pop. 600) in Indiana, they allow me not only to be in the service area, but also to help the tech work on the car - if so desired. I know the three techs at the SAAB dealer by their first names, not because of the need for consistent service, but simply because of their friendliness. Then again, this is an "old school" type of dealership which are few and far between these days.

wonderwall · August 2006

yeah, that's probably the only downside of now owning the hyundai, both of the local dealers are part of auto sprawl marts, so to speak. when i had my mazda pr5, the dealership was a stand alone mazda shop and i always got the same team of guys who handled the maintenance on my car and they knew me by name and so on.

newsview · August 2006

"with my local SAAB-only dealer located in a very small town (pop. 600) in Indiana, they allow me not only to be in the service area, but also to help the tech work on the car - if so desired"

Wow, that's impressive, w9cw. If more service departments were that easy going, I think it would go a long way to helping customers feel like they can get to know and trust the people doing the work. It's hard to look someone in the eye  or get to know them by name  and then shortcut the work. Not to slam service advisors  there are a lot of competent ones, too  but sometimes it helps improve communication to get past them! I've had cases where I describe something one way, and it goes down on the service ticket another way. By the time these "translations" get back to the mechanic, it is a wonder they can repair anything!

w9cw · September 2006

Yes, this SAAB dealer was one of a kind. It always reminded me of the MG-Jag-Triumph dealer I used to take my Triumph GT6 to for service back in the late '60s. The SAAB dealer had been a SAAB only dealer since 1959, and the three techs had over 90 years of experience on SAABs. They won the national award for the best SAAB Service (Authorized Dealer) several years in a row, and again, they're located in a very small town in west central Indiana. SAAB owners drove from over 150 miles away for their service. Here's another example of their attitude: If I needed a part for my SAAB, I could call up the owner (and, the only salesperson), and he would send me the part by UPS and invoice me. I could pay him within 30 days. So, there still is wonderful dealers out there.

Our local Hyundai dealer just moved to a new mega-complex north of Urbana, IL. The dealership sells Hyundai, Kia, Mazda, Chrysler, VW, Toyota, Scion, and Mitsubishi. I've always been treated very well at their shop, even though I bought our 2006 Elantra elsewhere. You wouldn't believe what their Service Department looks like! When you enter the waiting area, it looks like the lobby of a first class hotel with 36" plasma TVs hanging off the walls in several places. Really classy . . .

w9cw · September 2006

I have a technical question on my 2006 Elantra GLS that our local dealer's Service Department can't answer. What is the formulation of the engine coolant/anti-freeze installed at the factory in the 2006 Elantra?

The owner's manual states to simply use an ethylene glycol-based coolant, however, there are three (3) types of ethylene glycol coolant currently on the market:

1). IAT (Inorganic Acid Technology) coolant. This is the old, standard coolant available for years, and is typically green in color. NOTE: My 2006 Elantra's coolant is green.

2). HOAT (Hybrid Organic Acid Technology) coolant. This is a newer form of coolant that is a low-nitrate, phosphate-free, and low pH formulation which includes greater protection for alloys, including aluminum. Commonly available types include: Mercedes-Benz coolant, and Valvoline Zerex G-05 formulation, and can be various colors, but the most typical is yellow or amber.

3). OAT (Organic Acid Technology) coolant. This is the newest formulation of coolant that is nitrate and phosphate-free, and low pH, and also has improved corrosion protection for metal alloys. Commonly available types include: GM DexCool, and Honda coolant, and also can be various colors, including red and gold.

Since the latter OAT-type coolant is NOT compatible with the other two types, I would sincerely appreciate to know what type is used by the factory.

No one seems to know, and this is actually a critical question for owners who perform much of their own preventive maintenance. Interestingly, the Service Manager at the local dealers says: "We just go to NAPA and buy their standard coolant for use in all Hyundais." Frankly, I don't think he realizes there are 3 different types of coolants used today.

doohickie · September 2006

According to the service manual, it says "ETHYLENE GLYCOL BASE FOR ALUMINUM". That's all it says. If the OAT is the newest, latest stuff, I would go with one of the other two.

I asked this on another forum and got an authoritative answer from a source I trust:

IAT type coolant is used in Hyundais. (Green Coolant) If finances permit HOAT type coolant can be used like the Zerex brand. DONOT use OAT type coolant.

This was backed up by another poster who had just done a coolant flush and verified the stock coolant was green.

readonly · September 2006

I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS 4door with Automatic transmission. It has been running quite well. This weekend, I had a trip to Smoky Mountain National Park with 5 people in the car (4 adults + one kid) and some lug gages. On the way from the Cherokee, NC to Gatlinburg, TN (climbing period, not that steep), I realized that the car speed couldn't get higher at about 40m/h although I hit the gas pedal pretty hard (I was using D shift at that time).
Meanwhile, there was a lot of "hong..hong" noise from the car (I am not sure if it is from the transmission or engine). I continued driving for a while at around 40m/h still with "D" shift. Then I decided to try "L" shift or "2" shift, after I did that, it became much worse, the "hong..hong" noise became much higher, so I shifted back to "D" shift. I still couldn't increase the speed and I started
to feel a strong smell (like a melting plastic or something). I was a little worried and decided to let the car stop and cool off. I also checked all the fluids level, all seems OK and no engine overheat, no warning lights on.
I stopped on the way for a couple of times to let the car cool. Finally I drove across the mountain. Because I was afraid that it might break down, I didn't change the shift to "L" shift down the mountain as it should be. After reaching the hotel, I didn't drive the car for half a day.
From Sunday to monday, I drove it again on the highway back to Atlanta, GA and Tallahassee, FL. The car ran quite well without any problem. I am thinking to send the car to Hyundai dealership to have it checked, especially transmission. Any comments or suggestion are highly appreciated.

dominquez · September 2006

I have 05 and 00 elantra's, the 05 with 20,000 started to have problems shifting. Dealer said it needed to be reporgramd.. I am having similar problems with 00 but this has 73000. found article in magazine that stated if battery was disconnected trans needed to be re programed. Also if trans axle is changed it needs to be reprogramed. I don't see this in the manual Hyundai should let owners know of this problem.

backy · September 2006

Definitely have it checked, there should not have been a noise, or smell. If the car needed to downshift going up the hill to maintain speed, it would have (or should have).

jlflemmons · September 2006

Just pulling the battery does not require a reprogram, but the system will have to "re-learn" your driving habits. Think of it as having all the knowlege, but none of the experience. Once driven for a bit, your driving habits are re-learned.

With a complete transaxle replacement, there may need to be some reprogramming, but I would be suprised if there were that much variation between units.

Jim

w9cw · September 2006

I've driven that exact route from Gatlinburg to Cherokee, and back, serveral times, and it can be strenuous on a vehicle, especially one laden with passengers and luggage. I would certainly have the engine and transmission checked by a Hyundai dealer, or an independent mechanic familiar with the Elantra.

I'm not sure what the "hong . . . hong" sounds may be; if it's engine predetonation, you'd be hearing a pinging, or metallic sound. It sounds like it may be more transmission than engine, but that's only a shot in the dark.

Remember, you were also at altitude driving through the Smokies, so perhaps the ECM was not adjusting the fuel mixture and timing correctly???

rsj22 · September 2006

I just got this car and I figured the dash lights would come on with the headlights, but apparently I'm wrong.. Is there a seperate switch or something?.. If so, where exactly is it?.. Or is it a blown fuse?.. I know it's a dumb question, but I'd rather be dumb than get pulled over because I can't see my spedometer at night.

snakeweasel · September 2006

The dash lights should come one with the parking lights. Have you checked the dimmer (for the dash lights) switch? Sometimes when they are turned all the way down they may appear to be off.

If thats not the case its a blown fuse, if not that take it back to the dealer.

eilymari · September 2006

Hello! I have a 2000 Elantra Wagon GLS, purchased new, did all the service stuff, never had any major problems till very recently. Car has about 78K miles on it, gets about 20mpg currently. The past few weeks engine is stalling (actually loses power) while driving, then resuming power, or alternately, engine accelerates sharply though I have not hit the gas. This is bad when in traffic!

Car shakes when coming to a stop, though I have new tires and alignment. Forget putting the AC on, it bucks and stalls so badly it's not worth trying. Running rough, seems like it's not getting gas. This is my only car and I don't have tons of money to spend on it - is it worth getting fixed??? I am so disappointed since it's now paid off and it was always so good! Any suggestions would be MUCH appreciated. :sick:

backy · September 2006

You have owned the car for 6-7 years and have had no major problems until recently. That seems pretty good to me! Do you know a good mechanic who could check the car, including the diagnostic codes? Those could quickly tell you (or the mechanic actually) what the problem is. (Who has done all the regular maintenance on the car?) It could just be an adjustment or a failed part; it could be bad gas! You have done well over the years in keeping the car maintained, and it has done well by you. Isn't worth a few dollars to see what the problem is?

snakeweasel · September 2006

Hello fellow wagon owner. Mine was experiencing issues very similar to yours. It turned out to be the exhaust manifold.

Anyway your car is still under warranty for the power train so you may want to take it in to a dealer and have them check it.

backy · September 2006

Didn't Hyundai extend the warranty on the exhaust manifold of 2000-2002 Elantras to 10 years, unlimited mileage, due to a problem with cracking on some of them?

snakeweasel · September 2006

That they did and thats why mine was replaced free even though I had something like 125K on mine.

Now thats standing by your car.

primetime2628 · September 2006

Similar problem occured when my gas tank was getting low. Turns out the fuel pump is inside the gas tank and is cooled by the gas. When the tank is low the pump overheats and surges and looses power. Might as well get the fuel filter done at the same time since it's in there. btw it will cost you about $800 to have this done at the dealer but can probably get it done cheaper. Just make sure you buy the pump from Hyundai, it's not a generic pump.
Also when was the last time you replaced the spark plug wires. Mine has suffered with this until I replaced them and the plugs.

doohickie · September 2006

The filter is included with the fuel sending unit; you get a new fuel pump, the filter comes with it. It should be a lot LESS than $800 though; it's not that tough a job.

snakeweasel · September 2006

Don't forget that there is also a fuel filter in the engine compartment on the firewall drivers side (at least thats where it is on mine).

eilymari · September 2006

Hi there! Thanks to all for your replies, someone else had mentioned a fuel filter/fuel pump possibility to me. Also that an engine flush might help?? I moved to Arizona from Boston a year ago so I can't bring it to my original dealer who knew the car. I should've mentioned that the problem is not happening consistently - yesterday it ran fine 30 miles round trip to work. But it's going in the shop regardless - was hoping just to narrow down what it might be.
Once it's resolved, I'll be sure to post what the problem was!
Thanks again!

eilymari · September 2006

Gee I just had the wires replaced in February...just put $1500 into it then, the wires were dried out and cracked. Moved to AZ a year ago and not sure if the weather here affects the car differently? Is that crazy? Drove the car through blizzards for five years with never a problem!

backy · September 2006

Arizona heat is very tough on some parts of a car. Batteries for example. But the wires should have lasted more than six months.

nodule · September 2006

The service manager at my dealer tells me for the 2005
GLS, the fuel filter is a non-serviceable, maintenance free
item.
Is this true?

backy · September 2006

Sounds like BS to me. It would be the first fuel filter in history that has no possibility of getting clogged over time.

snakeweasel · September 2006

That would depend on what the guy ment by fuel filter. Their is a sort of filter in the gas tank itself that should not need any maintence. Then there is one along the fuel line that should be changed at regular intervals.

nodule · September 2006

snake,

Thanks! so when does that fuel filter in the fuel line
get replaced? It seems be be unclear to me and I can not
locate that in owners manual.

snakeweasel · September 2006

so when does that fuel filter in the fuel line get replaced?

Well I have an older car so this may not apply to newer Elantras, as infrequently as possible since its a bear to change.

That being said off the top of my head I would say every 60K miles.

doohickie · September 2006

The filter is not designed to be serviced by itself, but is part of the fuel sending unit (fuel pump). However, the filter can be bought from a Hyundai dealer and installed, independent of the fuel pump. I guess the idea is that if the pump is being removed to replace the filter, might was well replace the whole pump.

Here is a link to instructions on How to Replace the Fuel Filter. I believe that is for the hatchback; the sedan is the same except that the rear seat bottom is held in by two bolts. Once the bolts are out, slide the seat cushion toward the front of the car to remove it (I think).

snakeweasel · September 2006

The filter on the pump should not need replacing. Its the filter on the fuel line that needs the occasional replacement.

nodule · September 2006

Snake,

Ok, at lunch I went out to my car and looked at the
maintenance schedule. Its says replace "fuel filter"
at 52,250 miles.
So are they referring to the filter in the fuel line
or the one in the gas tank?

snakeweasel · September 2006

They are referring to the one in the fuel line. The one in the gas tank is designed to survive the fuel pump. On my car, a 2000, that is on the firewall on the drivers side. I would suspect that on newer cars it would be in or near the same place.

slicksly · September 2006

My car has about 125k miles on it. About a week ago, the power locks stopped working. I was having problems with my battery and was receiving frequent jumps until I could get a new one. My locks went out during this period. I got a new battery and I assumed that my locks would turn back on once I installed the new battery, but no luck. Any suggestions? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

doohickie · September 2006

The filter in the line disappeared starting with the 2001 model. There is NO line filter. Only the one in the pump.

doohickie · September 2006

There is a techinical service bulletin on wire corrosion due to improperly sealed connectors going to the door. It could be that you have corrosion that affects operation of the locks, AND may also cause a short which would kill the battery.

Even though your car is out of warranty, you may ask the dealer about this. If the car has not been modified to remedy this problem, they might still fix it for free since it is a known defect.

nodule · September 2006

Do the 2005 GLS model come already equuipped with a air
cabin filter, and at what mileage do they need replacing?
My independent shop I go to said I should replace when
I do my 30K scheduled maintenance.

exotrope · September 2006

Doohickle......so that must mean that the filter in the
fuel pump news replacing at 52,500 miles? Im confused here!

doohickie · September 2006

Some 05 Elantras have them, some don't. The air box is the same on all Elantras, but not all have the filter put in. The filter can be bought at a Hyundai dealer (part number 97133-2D000), or buy aftermarket (Bosch P3860). If buying aftermarket, you won't necessarily find an application for Elantra, but it is the same air box used on the 4-cylinder Tiburons.

doohickie · September 2006

That's a really good question, since the manual has that in there. I usually treat the manual as the prime source of information, but I believe the fuel filter replacement is a carryover from the previous generation. To be honest, I'm not really sure. It gets confusing since dealers don't generally want to replace the in-tank filters. I will probably change mine at about that mileage, though.

backy · September 2006

That's really interesting that Hyundai put the pollen filters into some '05 Elantras and not all. Prior to '05, no Elantras in the U.S. came from the factory with the filters. But they could be installed easily enough, through the access point in the glovebox.

doohickie · September 2006

It's a mystery. I have heard of people with pre-05 Elantras getting the filters, though. It's almost like every so many cars, they put one in for the heck of it. :confuse:

Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles