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Comments
were right. they said it was a input sensor that was open.
it was not covered under the original warranty but was
covered under my extended warranty.i am glad i got it when
i bought the car.
try calling hyundais consumer affairs phone number 1-800-633
5151 and tell them what the dealer told you.what the heck.
it;s worth a try.good luck.
both times it was the water pump.you might also check the
belt's to make sure thier tight enough.
It is now Day 5 1/2; the dealer wanted ALL service records, which she provided. TOday, she was informed for 1st time that a warranty rep needed to review docs, AND that she needed to cough up $300 so that their mechanic could fully inspect the vehicle(!!). The car had 74k on it; for routine stuff (oil changes, brakes) she took elsewhere but major stuff it went to dealer to fix.
She is renting a car and wants resolution immediately. She is convinced Hyundai must replace engine b/c it's under warranty. Dealer is obviously stalling--and, to rub salt in wound, dealer wouldn't even give her a loaner car even though they had available.....
Has anyone had experience w/ trying to enforce warranty w/ this behemoth wealthy Korean car company???? Any advice?? Getting another car is not an option.....
Thanks!!
I have a 2000 wagon and the only warranty work I had done was replacement of the exhaust manifold at 120+K miles (they were defective so Hyundai extended the warranty to 10 years unlimited miles on them). They did it no questions asked, just fixed it called me and told me to pick it up.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Contact Hyundai corporate directly and advise them what is happening. Phone numbers are in the owners manual or you can find them at HyundaiUSA.com.
Did Hyundai not have a 10 year/100K warranty prior to 10/01? I know the second and subsequent owners only got 5 years, 60K, but I didn't know when the 10year/100k warranty was put into place for original owners.
When the speedometer quits working is the odometer still working?
Also these RPM surges are they only when you have the cruise control on? And if so does it happen when you start going up a hill? If so thats normal as the engine starts to work harder to keep you speed.
2011 Hyundai Sonata, 2014 BMW 428i convertible, 2015 Honda CTX700D
Hopefully you have kept your service records back from 50k miles so there is a record of the problem while the bumper-to-bumper warranty was in effect.
Simple explanation on how the cruise works: You press the set button on the stalk and the controller reads and remembers the voltage coming from the speedometer. Then, as you go up and down hills the controller compares the real-time reading from speedometer to the stored value and sends a plus or minus adjustment to the throttle control servo to adjust the vehicle speed.
This is an instance where technology has made a major improvement over the old style vacuum servo systems.
Apparently the wheel speed sensor in particular is subject to damage if the mechanic does not take proper precautions when changing out brake pads; also the wire going to it might wear on the tire, especially with oversized aftermarket rims or if the suspension was dropped.
elantra.are these filters as good as they say they are.
the paper filters.
I test drove an '04 automatic GLS Elantra today and really liked the car ... except for one problem. We started noticing a consistent rattle in the back when braking. Wondering if anyone experienced that and had any ideas what it could be?
Also noticed the brakes felt a little "loose" vs. tight when I applied pressure though some Elantra owners have told me that's how the brakes normally feel so I'm not sure if that is a concern or not.
Finally, does anyone know how strict Hyundai is with warranty information? The car has low miles so I think all that would be required is a couple oil changes or so (the owner wasn't sure he knew where the receipt was -- would that be a problem?) but a service receipt the owner showed me also noted he had declined reccommended maintenance and repairs and such a decision could void the warranty. It said he declined "coolant" and the owner said it was a power flush they wanted and that it was't required for the warranty and knowing how dealerships can be, I probably lean toward believing him but I was wondering if there was a place I could find out about warranty details on the web.
Thanks a lot in advance.
Coolant "power flush" is not required for warranty, but coolant replacement ever 30K miles is.
TIA
I think my plan will be to see if he can take it to his local Hyundai dealer in front of me or if we can take it to a mechanic and have it inspected just to be sure.
What do you think?
Anyway ... can you also tell me what other warranty requirements would be if the car only has 7,500 miles on it? Amazingly enough, there's only about 7700 miles on it and it's an '04. Thanks.
You may also just have a bad tach.
I bought a used 04 Elantra GT 3 days back with 60K miles (a lot I know, but I got a good deal pricewise for it). I got new Kumho tires put in at Sears. While coasting at 15-20 mph, there is a vibration and the whole car shakes. There is no vibration at higher speeds up to 80 mph. Any specific questions I should ask the guys at Sears when I take the car back to them? That's where I got the new Kumhos installed.
Will changing the cabin air filter help? I have no idea what service was done on this car before I bought it from the dealer with 61K miles on it.
Do you know if the 60k servicing was done? It is THE major service interval for the car--also at 120k etc. If not, you should have it done soon. It includes changing the timing belt, I think also coolant flush/fill and AT fluid (if it's an AT). The owner's manual has all the details.
:surprise:
Also, I notice the car hesitates (almost a knocking sound) at low revs in 4th gear (its an auto). Is this common with the Elantra's with auto?
What are the RPMs when you hear this sound in 4th? If it's really low, the engine could be lugging. I find if I am cruising on level ground or downhill, I can get the revs down to about 1350-1400 before the engine starts to lug--or more likely down-shifts.