Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

jlflemmons · May 2007

See?

pat · May 2007

Here's the link: acura03g, "Hyundai Elantra Basic Maintenance Questions" #9, 11 May 2007 8:00 pm.

backy · May 2007

I'm a little confused over this move. Maybe these two discussions are a little too similar?

doohickie · May 2007

Maybe these two discussions are a little too similar?

I think it's an offshoot of when the new CarSpace was rolled out and the Elantra area had a flood of new threads.

backy · May 2007

In this case I think it was because someone decided to open a new discussion with a "basic" maintenance question vs. putting it into this discussion re maintenance. I guess the idea is, more, specific discussions is better than a few general discussions.

strei007 · May 2007

After dealer worked on engine(2000 2L 140hp)my idle RPM seems high. They replaced a fuel pressure valve and thermostat. Now the car needs more pressure on brake to slow the car down. I noticed the RMPs at 1200 while slowing to a stop. Once the car comes to a complete stop it idles at 850. How do I adjust it back down? I don't want the hassel of going back to the dealer for something so simple. Thanks

doohickie · May 2007

Sounds like a bad (or maybe incorrect) sensor. If you try to adjust anything on these cars, the computer tries to correct it back to what it thinks it's supposed to be. You probably need to take it back. Normal idle is 750 rpm.

strei007 · May 2007

Bummer. Thanks for your advice.

strei007 · May 2007

Solved the problem myself of fast idle. Apparently the dealer forgot to hook up the vaccuum line to the fuel pressure valve.

doohickie · May 2007

Duhhhhhhh....

Good catch!

dekorai · May 2007

My 04 Elantra hesitates when I am in 4th gear at low RPM and accelerate. If I hit the throttle a bit hard, it downshifts to 3rd and then revs smooth. But in 4th while gradually accerating uphill, it feels like either the engine is hesitating or it's something with the tranny perhaps?? Any thoughts? Also while decelerating, a whining noise emanates...is that something from the alternator I should worry about?

It has 72,000 miles, and I had the timing belt replaced at 63,000 miles, and the other drive belts also.

backy · May 2007

I think you should take it into the dealer for a look-see; it's still under powertrain warranty (if you are the original owher). It shouldn't whine while decelerating. The problem with accelerating uphill could just be that you are trying to use too light a pedal pressure, and the engine is lugging. Is this behavior new, or has it done this all along?

w9cw · May 2007

I have a 2006 Elantra GLS. I recently took the car to the dealer for a Engine Check light diagnosis (not caused by the gas cap!). The problem was Code P0172 - "fuel system rich." In following the troubleshooting diagnosis tree, the tech removed the air cleaner cover to begin the initial steps of investigation, but did so without first removing the shroud that goes around the air cleaner, and around the battery. He therefore scratched up the air cleaner housing rather
badly on the shroud's steel flange or bracket that mounts to the top of the air cleaner cover by trying to short-cut the removal. Obviously, mechanics are always trying to save time to book as much work as possible. An extra minute of his time would have eliminated this problem altogether.

The dealer was good enough to order a new air cleaner cover Part number 28112D270, but interestingly, the replacement (same part number) is not the same as the original! If you look inside the original air cleaner cover there is an "air horn" of sorts projecting inside the cover connected to the opening or hole of the cover which leads to the intake manifold. The replacement does not have this air horn extension inside the cover.

Anyone have any thoughts on this? In looking at the Hyundai parts website, it does not show this extension as available separately. It doesn't appear the air horn extension comes off easily either to place it on the replacement air cleaner cover.

There must be a reason for this air horn extension inside the air cleaner cover. BTW . . . the tech never found a problem that could have triggered the Engine Check light fault code.

doohickie · May 2007

I had the P0172 issue. That sometimes points to a bad O2 sensor, but in my case they tried putting new sensor on and the light stayed on so they eliminated that, and put the original sensor back. They changed out 2 or 3 things in the evaporative emissions (charcoal cannister) system and the light went away, but returned each time (sometimes after months!) Eventually they took another look at the O2 sensor and replaced it; the Elantra's been good ever since.

Be persistent with the dealer; this is a new car issue that is clearly under warranty. In my case it took probably 5 or 6 tries before they finally got everything right. They were real good about it and followed the troubleshooting charts, but I think the issue was that, yes, the O2 sensor was bad, but there was also something else wrong. It was only after they replaced the stuff in the evap system *and* the O2 sensor that the problem was fixed.

Make sure this gets fixed; if you have a Check Engine Light when you take the car in for inspection, it will fail. (most states require the car to be CEL-free for later models.)

doohickie · May 2007

I looked at my 05 Elantra and found the same thing- the "horn" is in there. But... it is not part of 281112D270

It has its own part number: 2813826320. It's called "Hose, air intake".

It's a little confusing, though, in the Hyundai parts listing. Looking at the picture in the parts catalog,

You should be able to find the label 28111 in the picture. Looking it up in the listing, this is the 281112D270 you mentioned. A little left of that is the label 28138. In the listing, the 28138 part on non-CVVT cars (2001-2003 model years) is a 281382D001, called a "HOSE-AIR INTAKE".

On CVVT cars (2004 to 2006 model years), according to the inset diagram at the top, the part that looks like that is labeled 28139C, "HOSE-AIR INTAKE [B] (CVVT ENGINE)". The full part number is 281392D250. Also in the CVVT inset, there is a different part labeled 28138- this is your "horn", also known as "HOSE-AIR INTAKE (CVVT ENGINE)". The full part number is 2813826320. It is a separate part from the top of the air cleaner. If your dealer failed to take the horn out of the old air cleaner and put it into the new one, he now owes you a horn as well. Dealer list price on that part, by the way, is $20.10.

If you need the horn, print out this post and take it to the dealer; it should help straighten things out. I hope!

w9cw · May 2007

Thanks doohickie - I'll order this part, and see what happens. Interestingly, my local dealer does not participate in Hyundai's Online Ordering System. However, a dealer 30 miles from here does. And, whenever I order a part from the local dealer, their prices are always higher than those of the Online System.

pat · May 2007

That would make another great guide...

doohickie · May 2007

The real guide is how to look up stuff in Hyundai's system. I've written a guide here's a link.

pat · May 2007

Cool, thanks!

acura03g · May 2007

Contractors were doing sealcoating of my driveway. Some of the costing spilled on my car. It's very hard to get off. I finally scratched it off. But it left a yellow mark. How do I get rid of this without damaging the paint? thank!

doohickie · June 2007

Buy a clay bar and clay the affected area to get any surface contamination off, then use a good quality wax. At least that's what I'd try.

jlflemmons · June 2007

If it is a petroleum based sealer, spray it with WD-40. The WD40 will not hurt the paint, and it will dissolve the sealer. Works good on road tar, too.

duckied · June 2007

Over the past couple of weeks my steering wheel on my 2005 Elantra has begun to crack. Yesterday a piece broke off the wheel, leaving a "crater" on the top of the wheel.

Is this covered under Hyundai's 5 yr./60,000 bumper to bumper warranty?

Thanks! :confuse:

backy · June 2007

I would think so! If little things like sun visors and carpet anchors are covered, the wheel should be. Unless they can determine somehow that the problem was due to an accident or abuse. Which I assume wasn't the case here.

sarakatie04 · June 2007

So here's the deal... I have a 2000 Hyundai GLS... It has 64,400 or so miles on it... I had the engine replaced in October 2006, after the car died on me... Apparently the Timing Belt broke, and caused the engine to blow. Anyhow, here is my question...

Shortly after I got it back from the garage, the engine light came on, so I took it back down, and they supposedidly put it back on the computer and nothing was wrong, so they just had to re-program the new engine...Not to mention that now, it is very loud...

Then after a week or so, when I left it run all the way down til the low fuel light came on... the engine light came flashing on, and then stayed on. I was also going around a sharp turn, so I thought that had something to do with it. Well after I pumped gas into it, the light went off. Ever since then though, almost every time I would put gas into the car, it wouldn't let me pump it, it sounded as if it wasn't even going into the pump. So when I took it for inspection, I told the garage what happened and said they would check it out. Well when I went to pick it up, they said it wasn't the vent hose like they had hoped because they could have fixed that without having to drop the tank.

So then I took it back to the garage that I had gone to, to have them replace my engine... Well they fixed the problem, they apparently cleaned out some hose or something, but didn't charge me because it was their mistake. But after a few days of driving it, the engine light came back on. My dad knows a lot of stuff about cars, so I asked him to look at it. He reset the car, by taking off the positive side of the battery, and cleaning it off... Then he took it out for a test run. He ran it to 50mph, and nothing came on. So I took it back home, and when I came to a red light, and I had to sit there for awhile, the engine light came on again, and stayed on. It seems like the car idles very roughly almost like a disiel powered car, but it's not. One morning I, once again, left it go down to the low fuel light, and I was going on the highway at about 60-65mph, and the low fuel light came on, and then all of a sudden it felt like something had dropped in my car, and lost some power, so then I decided to slow down, and my engine light came flashing on, and now it once again has stayed on. I'm trying to figure out if this is a major problem or not... I'm hoping not, but with my luck with cars, it will be...

bjc2 · June 2007

can anyone tell me what a fair price would be to have the
timing belt replaced on my 2001 elantra.i would like to
know before shopping around.
thanks/

doohickie · June 2007

I think the dealer will charge $400-500, maybe $100 less at a shop.

bjc2 · June 2007

thanks doohickie.

doohickie · June 2007

If you decide to try to replace the belt yourself, let me know. I've seen several discussions of people doing it themselves on other sites. One guy included a bunch of detailed pictures.

bjc2 · June 2007

how do you remove the rear brake drums from a 2001 elantra.
thanks/

dreamtheaterr · July 2007

I have 75K miles on my 04 Elantra. I plan to change the spark plugs (DIY job) and put in platinum NGK or Denso plugs. The spark plugs were not changed at 60K. Was wondering if there is anything else (PCV valve, spark plug wires) that need to be changed.

I have done stuff like changing headlight bulbs, air filter. This is my first attempt at a DIY job on the spark plugs for an Elantra. Any tricky stuff I should keep an eye out for while changing the plugs?

rguedel · July 2007

I was just wondering what is usually done on the 30,000 mile checkup. My dealer quoted me $320 and I wasn't sure if this was reasonable or not.

Thanks for your help.

Robyn

doohickie · July 2007

The $320 probably includes BS services like "fuel injector cleaning" and "emissions system serive" which are not required by the maintenance schedule, and the chemicals used might even hurt some of the sensors in the car.

Basically, what you need is an engine air cleaner replacement (something you could do yourself!), a radiator flush & fill, a transmission flush & fill, oil change, and probably a tire rotation and balance. Also, have the inspections recommended in the owners manual done (which at my dealer is included with an oil change). The cost to me for these was only $200, as opposed to the $360 package recommended by the dealer.

My best advice is have them give you a list of the 30,000 mile service package, and cross off everything in the owners manual that is not a recommended item. It should save you about $100 or more.

Mr_Shiftright · July 2007

Yeah doohickie is right I'd bet. What I do at the dealer is tell them I only want the "mandatory" services, not the "optional" ones. This is a diplomatic way of saying you will be watching out for dealer add-ons and you won't accept them. They will get the point. Of course, this requires that you yourself go down the list of what the MANUAL says is part of the 30K service and check it against what the dealer plans to do for $320. If you don't do this, then really you can't complain about the charges as you haven't monitored them. It's no different than watching the checkout person at the supermarket or your doctor and what tests he's ordering.

backy · July 2007

Well, the mandatory services (per the Hyundai manual) PLUS any desired optional services, e.g. tire rotation (not mentioned in the manufacturer's service schedule). What I do is pull out the Hyundai service schedule from the car and review it with the service writer to make sure they are including only the necessary services.

And as doohickie said, there are some services that are very easy to do yourself, such as air filter and cabin filter replacement.

jlflemmons · July 2007

Don't forget to pull a wheel or two and inspect the brakes.

dreamtheaterr · August 2007

I was interested in replacing the audio system in my 04 Elantra. If I have a new one bought and installed at Circuit City, do I have to buy a 'wiring harness'? Can I do without it?

doohickie · August 2007

It is smart to get the wiring harness adapter. If you don't, the only way to hook up the new stereo is to splice the wires and there is an increased chance of screwing somthing up; for instance, the power wires are yellow and red, but the standard industry colors are opposite the Hyundai colors (with respect to which is always on and which one comes on with ignition).

Plus, if you ever want to get a new head unit later on or want to convert back to the stock stereo, it's a lot easier to do if you buy the adapter harness.

If you want to do it yourself, it's really not that hard. I've written up a CarSpace Guide On how to do it yourself. I have an 05 Elantra which is identical to the 04; if you have any other questions, just let me know.

dreamtheaterr · August 2007

Thanks Doohickie! I'll have Circuit City install the wiring harness when I take the car in tomorrow. I was just thinking it's something they might try to force me to install even though it might not have been necessary and charge me a fortune for it.

jkobb · August 2007

I have an 05 Elantra . I went to drain the radiator coolant and I` m not sur I`m looking at the radiator coolant drain plug(petcock) or not . Anyone can describe what it looks like ?

mysticsoul · August 2007

hey there all..

I'm new to this forum, have a Hyundai Elantra 01, 4dr sedan.

I'll be grateful if anyone could help me with this, the windshield washer doesnt work anymore, I had a look at it, its not the water being empty, or the pipes being clogged, so I think its the windshield-washer motor, cause I dont hear the motor sound anymore, any idea where the motor is located or how do I access it? short on money so i'll have to fix it myself.

Thanx

jlflemmons · August 2007

Drivers side of the radiator, on the very bottom. I believe it is red or orange. It is plastic.

jkobb · August 2007

Thanks Jeff , I wasn`t sure I was looking at the right thing. Mine was red with slot tha looks like a big phillips screw driver would fit into.I didn`t want to monkey with it if was the wrong thing. Jim

jkobb · August 2007

Someone correct if if I`m wrong , but isn`t that motor in the bottom of the washer fluid resevoir.

mysticsoul · August 2007

Thanx for the reply...

ya the motor is at the bottom, and the worst part is, i cant pull it or slide off from the top,found a high pavement and pulled it out from below. the worst part is that the replacement i found has a different power socket so now to friggin go down and try to a re wire it.

jkobb · August 2007

The only one I`ve ever replaced was on a Mazda and I unbolted the resevoir from the the body of the car and pulled it up and out. Then getting at the motor was a piece of cake.

mysticsoul · August 2007

well on a Hyundai Elantra its a little bit more difficult, coz there is no way you can detach the resevoir, coz only the mouth part is seen from above and the bulk of it is hidden under a metal sheet, so the only way to get to it is from below or by removing the front side of the mud guard on the front passenger side. well anywayz i just fixed it today, had to find a nice high footpath and raise one side of the car so that i cud slide my hand in n pull it out, since the knock off washer motor for $15 came with the crimp-on connectors, thats all i wanted, coz the original connectors wudnt fit into the new motor .
thanx for the help

jtaylor9 · August 2007

I ran over a large piece of tractor trailer tire and it tore the plastic in the front passenger wheel well - in front of wheel. I pushed it back in place and so far it has held but is loose - the plastic tore away from the bolts holding it in place. Any advice on how to fix or how much will cost?

doohickie · August 2007

I would search around local salvage yards for a new part. Make sure you get plenty of the little plastic fasteners. In the short term, make sure the old part doesn't come loose by tying it into place with nylon tie straps. (Maybe if you can secure it well with those, you can call it good enough and forget about it.)

jlflemmons · September 2007

Was doing a late night oil change and realized I didn't have the Hyundai filter I thought was in the cabinet. Well, AC Delco makes the PF1127 that is a dead ringer, right down to the anti drainback and bypass valves.

Ran down to the local Autozone and picked one up. Got home and when I went to install, found that there was no bypass valve in the filter. Checked it out further today and found out that the AC Delco was identical to the STP crap that they sell. Right down to the color of the filter, just the label was different.

I had read that AC Delco was having a problem with counterfeit filters flooding the market, but this was the first time I had seen one up close. Just for grins I went to another parts house that carries various brands. Of the six brands I checked, only the STP and AC Delco did not have the bypass valve.

I will be going by the dealer today to pick up a supply of Hyundai OEM filters. :mad:

Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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