Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

doohickie · November 2007

I struggled with pulling out the city light, so was wondering if there was a trick to it. No amount of pulling or rotating helped.

I just checked mine. I couldn't figure it out at first; I was looking for a catch and couldn't see one. I tried rotating it with some needle nose pliers and it rotated but nothing.... then I tried just pulling it out with the needle nose and it popped right out. It's a snap-in part, but it's meant to just pull out. It won't break. If you can't do it with your fingers, try some needle nose pliers.

dreamtheaterr · November 2007

Thanks Doohickie! I was eagerly awaiting your reply

Will tinker with it tomorrow and change the bulbs. Also, do you have any links for a DIY for a tranny fluid change and coolant change (with pictures perhaps)? I tried the 'other' XD site but no luck.

doohickie · November 2007

Sad to say.... I'm lazy and leave that to the dealer. I paid $180 total for both at the dealer for those services. They advertise a 30,000 mile package for something like $350, but I had them do just those two things along with an oil change and called it good.

dukecity · November 2007

Well "doohickie" when I did first check these fuses, all were good under the dash. I probably smoked that fuse when I used a jumper wire in the relay box after cleaning some of the ground connections. All in all I do appreciate your input, even though it did take me awhile. Take care.............

dreamtheaterr · November 2007

Was a five minute job to take out the headnight, and replace the busted city light. The needle nose plier did the trick. Thanks!

Now no worry of failing state inspection next month

jlflemmons · November 2007

And now you know more than you ever wanted to know about the lighting circuit of an Elantra.

Glad to help,

Jim

dukecity · November 2007

Well said Jim! Thanks..............

doohickie · November 2007

I hope you don't have another issue that's making that fuse blow then.

petecal · November 2007

My son's 2005 Elantra has worn the rear brake pads down to the rotor. We are taking the car in to the dealer tomorrow. I guess I need to know how Hyundai typically handles a problem like this. Here are the particulars:

28,000 miles
Original front pads are fine,
Dealer inspected two months ago, no mention of rear pad problem,
Both sides are grinding.

The way I look at it:

Why did the rear ware before the front. Don't they have a good design for a proportioning valve?

How can the valve be tested?

If all that is needed is new pads, what should an install cost? (rough and dirty)

If the rotors need to me ground/replaced, should that be covered under warranty?

Anybody have any recent experience so I can get a feel what I am up against.

Thanks In Advance,

Pete

davebucktn · November 2007

I've got a 2006 GLS Elantra and I'm wondering if there is any aftermarket or manufacturer product that I can replace that rear ashtray with. Is there a cupholder unit or something else of use I could put there?

jlflemmons · November 2007

Well, the rear pads on my '05 GT lasted about 22K miles. Caught them before they hit metal, but just barely.

The rear pads are very small, and non-metallic. At the time I replaced mine, there was no semi-metallic pad available. Don't know if there is now, or not. Did your son not notice the wear tabs screeching before the pad backplate started rubbing the rotor?

doohickie · November 2007

I don't know of anything that replaces it, but my Sears garage remote exactly fits in there. It's a nice, out-of-sight spot for that.

fushigi · November 2007

The vent control on my wife's GLS has partly failed. Rotating the dial, it will no longer change the airflow from feet to face to defrost but if I rotate it over to defrost the AC light does come on. Seems like a failure in the motor that switches the airflow direction.

Does anyone have any suggestions for things I can check before hauling it off to the dealer?

I'll note that early this year the rear defrost button failed and we had that module - apparently the whole HVAC control area - replaced. While I suppose this could be related I'm doubtful.

doohickie · November 2007

Oops. I missed where you said "rear".

I've thought of trying to get a cupholder back there but I'm not smart enough to figure out how to do it without ripping the console apart and making the whole thing look messy.

jlflemmons · November 2007

Does the underseat cupholder from an '05 fit?

doohickie · November 2007

There are cupholders on Elantra sedan rear seats, but not on the hatches. I think it has to do with how the hatch seat bottom folds.

jlflemmons · November 2007

True. I noted he said it was a GLS, but I didn't pay attention to the body style.

cyberfyber · December 2007

Not sure of the best terminology so please bare with me.
I took my 3 month old 2007 Elantra out for a local drive today after a night of light snow and freezing temps. Car has about 4,800 miles.

I drove slow enough and noticed at one point that the brakes sort of caught and then slipped (or locked?) after depressing the brake pedal all the way. It'd start off with a somewhat quick ticking or scraping sound at which the brakes were kind of caught and then followed by the car skidding a very short distance. Is this what a locking brake feels like? I'm not sure.

Anyhow, I tried to re-enact the event a few times more and sure enough it happened each time. Think I should be seriously worried? Take it into the dealer? or might this have to do with the first local snowfall of the season and be nothnig? Any ideas, suggestions would be appreciated. thanks. Of course I'll see how it handles tomorrow when the temps and weather is expected to warm up and clear up.

backy · December 2007

Have you driven a car with ABS before? A "quick ticking or scraping sound" sounds like you are describing ABS brakes. It will only happen if the ABS detects slippage on the wheels. Maybe some of the other times you tried it the road was not slippery enough to activate the ABS.

Unless you are familiar with how ABS sound/feel and this did NOT sound/feel like ABS activating to you, then I don't think you have anything to worry about.

cyberfyber · December 2007

backy,

yeah, my last car had ABS with new, huge, rugged all season tires, but don't recall ever slippin 'cept for when I had the older tires which were quite worn.

Yet this might be only the 3rd time I've driven on wet roads with this new car? Of course the roads in my area were pretty icy today since it didn't snow enough for anybody to bother clearing them.

Thanks for the insight.

we'll see I guess how it all is tomorrow.

perno13 · December 2007

Hi, I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT and my blower only works on level 4, not 1-3. I was told it's a bad resistor, so I bought a resistor from my dealer for like $40. I need to install it but I can't find the location. I looked under the glovebox on the passenger side, and I don't see anything that looks like this resistor.

Can anyone help walk me through? Note: The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the air filter!

Thank you!

jackarootoo · December 2007

Hmm .. where to start .. I am a retired car guy, that is, in my youth, when the earth was green, wrote books on cars, did a syndicated radio show, was on GMA, that kind of thing. Picked up a 2005 GT (new) as my retirement car. Currently only 10,000 miles on it (retired - remember?) and comments as follows:
* generally, like the thing (like saying that the 1940s were OK except for the war)
* dislike the dealer so intensively that would rather drive with two stuck remote mirrors -- literally -- than bring my car in for a warranty claim
* car as delivered had a front tire that was heat damaged, with tiny but numerous tread cracks. A real mystery. How did you see that? the dealer asked. I looked. They replaced the tire, shaking their little pointed heads all the while, but overtorqued the wheel and did not check the alignment, possibly because they did actually have an alignment machine on the premises (they subcontracted). I had the alignment checked (WAY WAY OUT) and done at a private shop at my expense
* After 5000 miles, I found antifreeze on the engine, but it otherwise ran fine. Took it in. Dealer replaced head gasket. Service manager said on re-delivery You may notice a smell. That is oil on the manifold because we spilled some. No biggie. On starting, I noticed a small shake that smoothed out in seconds. Took it to my own mechanic. Whatever the original problem was, you now have a cracked head, he said. He said the smell was antifreeze burning. It smoothed out because heat sealed the small crack.
* took the car back and left a lawyers letter. This time they changed the entire head and also repaired some plastic fittings they had damaged during the prior repair
* now, 5000 miles later, car is Ok (see comment above on meaning of ok) except for warped rotors. I used to drive on race tracks so I know the diff between hard driving and soft driving. All this car has ever seen is soft driving. Checked forums like this one and found rotor problem on Elantra problem is common to the point of epidemic. Tomorrow my mechanic (not Hyundais) is replacing front brakes with slotted/drilled premium rotors and ceramic pads.
* so far, still prefer the Elantra GT to my 92 Camry Sport which, instead of going gently into graceful old age, was costing me $2000 a year in repairs, and, remember, I wrote books on car maintenance.
* in two weeks I go to Florida for the winter. Try retirement sometime. You might like it. Best for the holidays to all

sideshow420 · December 2007

I am getting ready to change the thrust and main bearings on my 2003 hyundai elantra. I can't find the bolt torque specs anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :sick:

:mad:

nvbanker · January 2008

The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the air filter!

Then this job will make you suicidal. Take it somewhere. For another $40, a mechanic can do this in half an hour and have you whistling as you drive. or, YOU
can try to do it, spend all day, learn the proper use of three or four new vulgar expressions, and have it still not work when you're done.

Take my advice, you'll thank me.

perno13 · January 2008

Actually, I mustered up the courage to give it the ol' college try, and I successfully replaced my blower resistor in about 10 minutes! So I guess I can change that quote to:

"The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the blower resistor!"

Thank you.

elletucker · January 2008

The passenger side headlight bulb went out this a.m. on my 2005 Hyundai Elantra. Is this something that I can change myself? Do I just go to my local store and purchase the bulb and is there a better bulb than some to buy? Don't some let you see better at night than others? Do I need any certain tools? I am the "Do It Herselfer" so I would like to be able to do this myself and any help would be greatly appreciated!!

jlflemmons · January 2008

The passenger side is very easy. Directly behind the bulb, under the hood, is a large round knob. Unscrew it and you will see two wires going to a plug on the back of the bulb. Pull and wiggle the connector and it will come off. There is a little spring clip that looks like a twisted up gold colored paper clip. Unlatch it and the bulb will come out. Note that there is a tab on the bulb that fits into a notch, so it is very easy to line up the new one.

I would not get the Sylvania SilverStar bulb. Yes, it is brighter, but it only lasts a fraction of the time the standard bulb lasts. Most importantly, when you put the new bulb in, DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS!. These are halogen bulbs and the small amount of oil in your skin will cause hot spots in the glass and early burnout of the bulb.

Put everything back together and you have done your first Elantra bulb change. The first one takes about 10-15 minutes on the passenger side. Drivers side is a tighter fit and takes a bit longer.

Jim

doohickie · January 2008

Passenger side is easier to get to than the drivers side, but if you have problems getting the bulb out, it may be easier to just remove the whole headlamp assembly. Besides the connecter, you have to remove the blinker bulb. Remove the two screws (10 mm hex head) that are plainly visible, plus the third one that is kind of behind the assembly and down lower, and the assembly comes right out. Then it's much easier to get to the bulbs.

elletucker · January 2008

THANKS...got it done. I did have to remove the entire headlight assemble to get this done but it worked!!

scorp200 · January 2008

Has anyone had this problem? I just got back from dealer service. I got my new car in November and it's really hard to get it into first and second gear sometimes. It takes more muscle than was needed with my 2000 accent! It feels like the shift lever is pulled/stuck too far to the left, and it gets stuck in a notch and I really have to struggle to get it out of there.

The mechanic told me it's because reverse on this car is located 'above' first gear, rather than 'below' fifth as on other cars. He said there's no adjustment that can be made. If this is true, I suddenly hate my new car as city driving is realllly annoying and my arm actually hurts.

jlflemmons · January 2008

Mechanic is not right. This is a cable actuated shifter and is adjustable. I have seen the same issue on other cable shifters and it really isn't that hard to fix.

Keep pushing on them. The Elantra has always had a very nice, easy shifter.

webkillcranium · January 2008

I was having the same problem! Thanks for the help!

cyberfyber · January 2008

My Elantra is due for its second oil change. Getting over to the dealership for this has turned into a living hell for many reasons (distance, timing, accessibility...etc.)....'and I'm fed up with contacting them any further in this specific regard.

Soooo, I'm seriously considering getting an oil change locally. There's this one very dependable place I always used to go to for my last vehicle.

Aside from obviously keeping my receipt and such, what else should I be especially concerned about? My biggest worry is the warranty of course.

Any suggestions?

bwaller78 · January 2008

Hello,

Well you should avoid going to dealer as much as possible, they charge way too much for service. As far as the warranty goes, Manufacturer has to honor service performed at non dealer locations as per federal law, providing that service was done at proper intervals, and specifications and proper fluids used as per service requirments stated in the service manual. I have had several new cars and have never gotten my oil changed at the dealer unless it was discounted, and I have saved the reciepts showing mileage and vin to prove service was performed.

jlflemmons · January 2008

One thing you might consider is going to the dealer for the Hyundai oil filter. It is a very good little filter with check/anti siphon valves in it. I pick up three or four at a time and do my own changes, or you can go to a reputable garage and have them do it, but use the Hyundai filter. That way, should any problem arise in the future you can show that you were using the correct filter.

Actually, the Elantra is very easy to change the oil and filter on, and only takes about 10-15 minutes once you have done it a couple of times. Due to the long commute I have every day, I end up changing my oil about every 60-90 days.

cyberfyber · January 2008

Thanks folks for the info and suggestions. I'll certainly look into getting the extra oil filter(s) from the dealer. Too bad for my part they're about 70 miles out of my way for the whole trip. Uggghhhh. Between that and the idea of having to get up seriously early and still expect a long wait I'd surmise anyone being turned off by all this. 'but of course there's the warranty to always be concerned about.

Thanks again.

doohickie · January 2008

I totally, totally disagree with bwaller78's advice against going to the dealer. Yes, some dealers are expensive, but not all are. My local dealer only charges $15.95.

As far as getting serviced by non-dealership shops, there are a few things to know.

First of all, the Honda and Hyundai oil filter bases are identical, but the internal specs (particularly the bypass valve pressure) are different between the two different models (12-15 psi for the Hyundai versus 14-18 psi for Honda). Using the wrong filter can result in oil starvation in your Hyundai engine. So make sure you get the proper filter; it can kill your engine if you don't. I have heard that at least in the past, Fram put out a filter advertised for Hyundai that resulted in this condition. Purolator and Wix, I've heard, are good filters for Hyundai, and of course the Hyundai OEM filter (which I can get for only $6 at my dealer). So make sure if you go to a non-dealer shop that you know which filter was used and that it is the right one for Hyundais.

Also, bear in mind that Kia has the same engine in the Spectra, so you can go to a Kia dealer if that is more convenient or cheaper than a Hyundai dealer.

One other thing: If you get your automatic transmission flushed, again, MAKE SURE you get it done with the right fluid (SP-III). Other fluids have additives that can literally disolve your torque converter vains. Be very wary of "universal" fluids, even if they say they are good for SP-III. Hyundai has not, for instance, approved Amsoil's universal synthetic AT fluid for use in Hyundais even though Amsoil claims it meets SP-III specs (although I understand Hyundai is investigating it).

If you use any fluid other than SP-III in your auto transmission, or an oil filter that has the wrong specs and it results in a major failure, your warranty will *not* cover repairs because you did not maintain the car in accordance with the owners manual.

dukepa1 · January 2008

I have a 2005 Elantra ST hatchback with 29,000 miles on it. Had it inspected by Goodyear and they told me all 4 STRUTS were leaking and this could be a warrently issue. I called the Hyundai Dealer where I bought the car and he could not confirm this. He said just bring it in and we will take a look. Anyone know if this should be covered by the Bumper to Bumper 6 yr warrenty ?.

nj2pa2nc · January 2008

the same thing happened to my daughter's 02 elantra a few years ago. The dealer replaced them under the warranty. She no longer has the elantra-she totaled it.

nvbanker · January 2008

OF COURSE it's covered, it's inside the bumpers.

nihao4587 · January 2008

Hi,

My 2002 Elantra GT is approaching 55K miles and I am looking to get the 60K service done soon. Since I know that Midas does not provide the manufacture recommended SP-III transmission fluid, I will have to travel 80 miles to go to the dealer for the service.

My questions are:
1. What are the "must" items for the 60K service?
My understandings are air filter, coolant flush, oil change, spark plugs, transmission oil, serpentine belt and timing belt (?).
2. Any other "nice to have" items?
Probably brakes and battery, but I can always go to Midas or Sears. Since I don't think I need these two things changed now, I can save it from the 60K service.

It would be greatly appreciated if you can share your experiences and, better yet, if you happen to have the maintenance done with Doten Hyundai in Richmond, CA, definitely let me know.

I bought my car brand new and it has served my family really well. Besides regular services and tires, I have not encounter any unexpected break-downs.

Thanks.
Min

doohickie · January 2008

Those are pretty much what you need. Definitely the timing belt; that's probably the most important. If there is a Mitsubishi or Kia dealer nearby, call them and see if they can do the SP-III flush; their cars use it too.

jlflemmons · January 2008

Check your owners manual. On California delivered vehicles in 2002, I believe you will find that the timing belt is warranteed for 100K. There was a great deal of discussion about this several years ago. The same engine is used in all 50 states, but the consumer protection laws in California required a different service period for the timing belt change.

I remember this from my 2002 I owned. The service interval for 49 states was 60K, California was 100K. Same engine, different law.

colloquor · January 2008

Also, make sure - doubly-confirm - that your Hyundai dealer does indeed use SP-III ATF. Don't assume anything. Our local Hyundai dealer uses "a Hyundai-approved synthetic SP-III equivalent." There is no such beast - it's SP-III or nothing as per Hyundai corporate. So, please be careful.

Additionally, Hyundai, Kia, or Mitsu SP-III ATF generally sells for around $6 per quart, plus or minus some change. The aforementioned dealer sells Hyundai SP-III for $10.09 per quart - what a rip! They sell it by the quart, even though they don't use it in the back room - rather incredulous wouldn't you say. When it comes to shop fluids, most shops, including those at most dealers, use bulk fluids, and this is the case at our local Hyundai dealer.

I perform all scheduled maintenance on my Elantra. Once it's time for a timing belt change, however, I will have it done at the dealer. Everything else is self-performed. I log everything on Hyundai's website and in an paper-based log, keep all records and receipts, buy only Hyundai filters at the dealer (BTW . . . the oil filter is licensed/manufactured by Mann for Hyundai, an excellent filter manufacturer in Germany), and maintain the Elantra exactly by the book. I have all of the records, receipts, etc. for future reference should a warranty claim arise.

Another good example of a dealer neglecting scheduled maintenance: at the 24 month or 30K service interval the evaporative emission control cannister air filter is supposed to be changed. This is located just aft of the left-rear wheel near the gas filler underneath the car. The change is specified in the Maintenance Manual/Log. Our local dealer doesn't even stock this filter - simply, they don't change it as per book. I had to special order one for my 24 month service which I performed.

jtrifile · January 2008

the other night i got gas and i realized after the fact that i didn't put the feul cap back on and now my check engine light is on, i have since put the cap back on nice and tight. i have a 2005 hyundai elantra with 30,000 miles on it. i called up the dealership and they said that it would take about 100 miles before the light went off again. been about 300 and light is still on. what do i need to do? i know why it went on and i do not want to go to the dealer for that. any advice???thanks. jeff t. mechanicville n.y.

doohickie · January 2008

Another good example of a dealer neglecting scheduled maintenance: at the 24 month or 30K service interval the evaporative emission control cannister air filter is supposed to be changed.

It says nothing about that in my owners manual (2005 model year). Interestingly enough, *my* dealer included it in the 30,000 mile service package. I told them not to do it since it was not in the manual.

backy · January 2008

Let it go awhile longer, the 100 miles was an estimate on their part. The one time that happened to me (DW did me a favor and put gas in my Elantra) it took about a week for the light to go off.

colloquor · January 2008

Hi Doohickie - In my 2006 Elantra Maintenance Log, the evaporative emission control cannister's air filter is called: Fuel Tank Air Filter, listed under the "Emission Control Items" section. There is no "Fuel Tank Air Filter" per se, rather it's the cannister air filter they are referring to. I think it's one of those Korean to English translation anomalies.

doohickie · January 2008

Interesting. As I understand it, there were virtually no mechanical changes between the 04 and 06 model years. I checked my maintenance schedule again, though, and there is nothing about that filter. Hmmmm.

backy · January 2008

Sometime during the 2006 MY, didn't the Elantra get the updated powertrain, or at least the engine, as is also used on the 2007+ Elantra? I thought I read that someplace.

Hyundai Elantra Maintenance and Repair

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