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I just checked mine. I couldn't figure it out at first; I was looking for a catch and couldn't see one. I tried rotating it with some needle nose pliers and it rotated but nothing.... then I tried just pulling it out with the needle nose and it popped right out. It's a snap-in part, but it's meant to just pull out. It won't break. If you can't do it with your fingers, try some needle nose pliers.
Now no worry of failing state inspection next month
Glad to help,
Jim
28,000 miles
Original front pads are fine,
Dealer inspected two months ago, no mention of rear pad problem,
Both sides are grinding.
The way I look at it:
Why did the rear ware before the front. Don't they have a good design for a proportioning valve?
How can the valve be tested?
If all that is needed is new pads, what should an install cost? (rough and dirty)
If the rotors need to me ground/replaced, should that be covered under warranty?
Anybody have any recent experience so I can get a feel what I am up against.
Thanks In Advance,
Pete
The rear pads are very small, and non-metallic. At the time I replaced mine, there was no semi-metallic pad available. Don't know if there is now, or not. Did your son not notice the wear tabs screeching before the pad backplate started rubbing the rotor?
Does anyone have any suggestions for things I can check before hauling it off to the dealer?
I'll note that early this year the rear defrost button failed and we had that module - apparently the whole HVAC control area - replaced. While I suppose this could be related I'm doubtful.
I've thought of trying to get a cupholder back there but I'm not smart enough to figure out how to do it without ripping the console apart and making the whole thing look messy.
I took my 3 month old 2007 Elantra out for a local drive today after a night of light snow and freezing temps. Car has about 4,800 miles.
I drove slow enough and noticed at one point that the brakes sort of caught and then slipped (or locked?) after depressing the brake pedal all the way. It'd start off with a somewhat quick ticking or scraping sound at which the brakes were kind of caught and then followed by the car skidding a very short distance. Is this what a locking brake feels like? I'm not sure.
Anyhow, I tried to re-enact the event a few times more and sure enough it happened each time. Think I should be seriously worried? Take it into the dealer? or might this have to do with the first local snowfall of the season and be nothnig? Any ideas, suggestions would be appreciated. thanks. Of course I'll see how it handles tomorrow when the temps and weather is expected to warm up and clear up.
Unless you are familiar with how ABS sound/feel and this did NOT sound/feel like ABS activating to you, then I don't think you have anything to worry about.
yeah, my last car had ABS with new, huge, rugged all season tires, but don't recall ever slippin 'cept for when I had the older tires which were quite worn.
Yet this might be only the 3rd time I've driven on wet roads with this new car? Of course the roads in my area were pretty icy today since it didn't snow enough for anybody to bother clearing them.
Thanks for the insight.
we'll see I guess how it all is tomorrow.
Can anyone help walk me through? Note: The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the air filter! Thank you!
* generally, like the thing (like saying that the 1940’s were “OK except for the war”)
* dislike the dealer so intensively that would rather drive with two stuck remote mirrors -- literally -- than bring my car in for a warranty claim
* car as delivered had a front tire that was heat damaged, with tiny but numerous tread cracks. A real mystery. “How did you see that?” the dealer asked. “I looked.” They replaced the tire, shaking their little pointed heads all the while, but overtorqued the wheel and did not check the alignment, possibly because they did actually have an alignment machine on the premises (they subcontracted). I had the alignment checked (WAY WAY OUT) and done at a private shop at my expense
* After 5000 miles, I found antifreeze on the engine, but it otherwise ran fine. Took it in. Dealer replaced head gasket. Service manager said on re-delivery “You may notice a smell. That is oil on the manifold because we spilled some. No biggie.” On starting, I noticed a small shake that smoothed out in seconds. Took it to my own mechanic. “Whatever the original problem was, you now have a cracked head,” he said. He said the “smell” was antifreeze burning. It smoothed out because heat sealed the small crack.
* took the car back and left a lawyers letter. This time they changed the entire head and also repaired some plastic fittings they had damaged during the prior repair
* now, 5000 miles later, car is “Ok” (see comment above on meaning of “ok”) except for warped rotors. I used to drive on race tracks so I know the diff between hard driving and soft driving. All this car has ever seen is soft driving. Checked forums like this one and found rotor problem on Elantra problem is common to the point of epidemic. Tomorrow my mechanic (not Hyundai’s) is replacing front brakes with slotted/drilled premium rotors and ceramic pads.
* so far, still prefer the Elantra GT to my 92 Camry Sport which, instead of going gently into graceful old age, was costing me $2000 a year in repairs, and, remember, I wrote books on car maintenance.
* in two weeks I go to Florida for the winter. Try retirement sometime. You might like it. Best for the holidays to all
Then this job will make you suicidal. Take it somewhere. For another $40, a mechanic can do this in half an hour and have you whistling as you drive. or, YOU
can try to do it, spend all day, learn the proper use of three or four new vulgar expressions, and have it still not work when you're done.
Take my advice, you'll thank me.
"The most advanced car maintenance I've done myself is replacing the blower resistor!"
Thank you.
I would not get the Sylvania SilverStar bulb. Yes, it is brighter, but it only lasts a fraction of the time the standard bulb lasts. Most importantly, when you put the new bulb in, DO NOT TOUCH THE GLASS WITH YOUR BARE FINGERS!. These are halogen bulbs and the small amount of oil in your skin will cause hot spots in the glass and early burnout of the bulb.
Put everything back together and you have done your first Elantra bulb change. The first one takes about 10-15 minutes on the passenger side. Drivers side is a tighter fit and takes a bit longer.
Jim
The mechanic told me it's because reverse on this car is located 'above' first gear, rather than 'below' fifth as on other cars. He said there's no adjustment that can be made. If this is true, I suddenly hate my new car as city driving is realllly annoying and my arm actually hurts.
Keep pushing on them. The Elantra has always had a very nice, easy shifter.
Soooo, I'm seriously considering getting an oil change locally. There's this one very dependable place I always used to go to for my last vehicle.
Aside from obviously keeping my receipt and such, what else should I be especially concerned about? My biggest worry is the warranty of course.
Any suggestions?
Well you should avoid going to dealer as much as possible, they charge way too much for service. As far as the warranty goes, Manufacturer has to honor service performed at non dealer locations as per federal law, providing that service was done at proper intervals, and specifications and proper fluids used as per service requirments stated in the service manual. I have had several new cars and have never gotten my oil changed at the dealer unless it was discounted, and I have saved the reciepts showing mileage and vin to prove service was performed.
Actually, the Elantra is very easy to change the oil and filter on, and only takes about 10-15 minutes once you have done it a couple of times. Due to the long commute I have every day, I end up changing my oil about every 60-90 days.
Thanks again.
As far as getting serviced by non-dealership shops, there are a few things to know.
First of all, the Honda and Hyundai oil filter bases are identical, but the internal specs (particularly the bypass valve pressure) are different between the two different models (12-15 psi for the Hyundai versus 14-18 psi for Honda). Using the wrong filter can result in oil starvation in your Hyundai engine. So make sure you get the proper filter; it can kill your engine if you don't. I have heard that at least in the past, Fram put out a filter advertised for Hyundai that resulted in this condition. Purolator and Wix, I've heard, are good filters for Hyundai, and of course the Hyundai OEM filter (which I can get for only $6 at my dealer). So make sure if you go to a non-dealer shop that you know which filter was used and that it is the right one for Hyundais.
Also, bear in mind that Kia has the same engine in the Spectra, so you can go to a Kia dealer if that is more convenient or cheaper than a Hyundai dealer.
One other thing: If you get your automatic transmission flushed, again, MAKE SURE you get it done with the right fluid (SP-III). Other fluids have additives that can literally disolve your torque converter vains. Be very wary of "universal" fluids, even if they say they are good for SP-III. Hyundai has not, for instance, approved Amsoil's universal synthetic AT fluid for use in Hyundais even though Amsoil claims it meets SP-III specs (although I understand Hyundai is investigating it).
If you use any fluid other than SP-III in your auto transmission, or an oil filter that has the wrong specs and it results in a major failure, your warranty will *not* cover repairs because you did not maintain the car in accordance with the owners manual.
My 2002 Elantra GT is approaching 55K miles and I am looking to get the 60K service done soon. Since I know that Midas does not provide the manufacture recommended SP-III transmission fluid, I will have to travel 80 miles to go to the dealer for the service.
My questions are:
1. What are the "must" items for the 60K service?
My understandings are air filter, coolant flush, oil change, spark plugs, transmission oil, serpentine belt and timing belt (?).
2. Any other "nice to have" items?
Probably brakes and battery, but I can always go to Midas or Sears. Since I don't think I need these two things changed now, I can save it from the 60K service.
It would be greatly appreciated if you can share your experiences and, better yet, if you happen to have the maintenance done with Doten Hyundai in Richmond, CA, definitely let me know.
I bought my car brand new and it has served my family really well. Besides regular services and tires, I have not encounter any unexpected break-downs.
Thanks.
Min
I remember this from my 2002 I owned. The service interval for 49 states was 60K, California was 100K. Same engine, different law.
Additionally, Hyundai, Kia, or Mitsu SP-III ATF generally sells for around $6 per quart, plus or minus some change. The aforementioned dealer sells Hyundai SP-III for $10.09 per quart - what a rip! They sell it by the quart, even though they don't use it in the back room - rather incredulous wouldn't you say. When it comes to shop fluids, most shops, including those at most dealers, use bulk fluids, and this is the case at our local Hyundai dealer.
I perform all scheduled maintenance on my Elantra. Once it's time for a timing belt change, however, I will have it done at the dealer. Everything else is self-performed. I log everything on Hyundai's website and in an paper-based log, keep all records and receipts, buy only Hyundai filters at the dealer (BTW . . . the oil filter is licensed/manufactured by Mann for Hyundai, an excellent filter manufacturer in Germany), and maintain the Elantra exactly by the book. I have all of the records, receipts, etc. for future reference should a warranty claim arise.
Another good example of a dealer neglecting scheduled maintenance: at the 24 month or 30K service interval the evaporative emission control cannister air filter is supposed to be changed. This is located just aft of the left-rear wheel near the gas filler underneath the car. The change is specified in the Maintenance Manual/Log. Our local dealer doesn't even stock this filter - simply, they don't change it as per book. I had to special order one for my 24 month service which I performed.
It says nothing about that in my owners manual (2005 model year). Interestingly enough, *my* dealer included it in the 30,000 mile service package. I told them not to do it since it was not in the manual.