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Comments
jim
Has anyone removed the screw covers at the inside edges of the driver and passenger front doors?
One of my favourite tools is a nail file, the tip of which is naturally fairly thinly chiselled.
I have used this on several occasions ot pop out these screw covers.
I suggest if you are getting a nail file for this, make sure that the tip is not only thin, but is also nicely rounded. The sharply pointed nail files are no good for this.
Anyone who is just visiting these threads should note that these are the most serious of my concerns. This car has otherwise been a gem, ready to ascend to the throne of my vaunted Betsy II (227K mostly trouble-free miles). Long live Betsy III!
I have never had a small car before and I was wondering if this is normal. Could it just be the tires needing balanced?
As much as I love my Elantra, I am still well aware how EXQUISITE the CL is (it ought to be).
Another lovely thing, I had to have my windshield replaced about 2 months after I bought the car because of a rock that cracked it (thats a whole sad story in itself) but about a month later the plastic strip that goes down each side of the windshield, over the top of the doors and down the back window started coming loose at the back and flopping around. I took it in and they said it was because of it having been taken loose when the windshield was replaced (3 times) and replaced it free of charge under warrenty.
Well again as I was cleaning my car I noticed, its coming loose again, no windshiled replaced this time folks.
Re the weatherstripping, when my Elantra was new I noticed that a couple of the fasteners were not seated properly and the weatherstripping sagged. It's possible that this happened on your car and the wear and tear of closing the door on them broke them. Mine were on a rear door. I popped them back on and have not had a problem with them since (27 months).
Coming home from work (for those familiar with Ottawa I was heading west on Hunt Club just past Merivale)at around 6 pm. When this animal walked in front of me. I usually drive the speed limit (80KM)but on this day I was going slower. Conditions were dry and visibility excellent.
I managed to get the car slowed down but I still hit the deer. I caught it just under its left rear haunch. It buckled the top of the hood over the driver side headlight, bent some framework which held the rad some plastic bits and pieces.
All told it was 2300$ (CDN) in damages. The hood had to be replaced.
I was very lucky as I missed most of the animal and no one behind me hit it or me as I slammed the brakes on very hard (no ABS).
The deer ran off across the road and disappear into a thicket.
I was very impressed with the construction of the car as it has not developed any rattles or squeaks.
I now drive that stretch a lot slower now
GMC had a situation on the 5.7L engine used in 96-98 in the 1/2 ton trucks. When you let off the throttle at ~50MPH, the truck would hold speed for a second or so. After a ton of investigation, I found out that it was an emissions issue in that the 5.7L needed a lean-down before dropping back to idle. Otherwise, the engine would go rich without load and dump a lot of emmisions. The system performed as designed. While I don't care for some of the personality of EFI, it does beat overhauling carbs every 10K miles to maintain performance.
My Elantra has a somewhat different issue. The throttle does not respond to the first 10% of the TPS. The TPS has failed twice, replaced three times, and the problem is still there. Since the car is a 5spd, smooth clutch engagement takes real coordination. I figure sooner or later whatever is causing the problem will quit completely and we will have a solution. Problem did not show up until the car had ~6500 miles. Now has 11K.
Jim
Any ideas on what I should tell them if they tell me that they can't run the caulk, I have too.PLEASE HELP.
I love my car and would not get rid of it because of this.
I just ticked 3,000 miles on my 03 GT this last weekend (actually hit 3,050) and it's time to at least do an oil change, I need to check the owner's manual to see if it's a recommended dealer stop.
My big question is I recall in one of my slogs through the longer Hyundai boards, there was some sort of problem with the oil plug/threads when doing oil changes? I usually just use Jiffy Lube, since I have to spend less time, both in general and in fending off additional charges, but is this a concern? I don't really want to have to schedule a bloody oil change with a Jiffy Lube right around the corner from me here at work, but if it's a significant risk I'll go to the dealer and slap them until I get a reasonable charge.
Anyone?
KF
Hyundai, like many other manufacturers, warns not to over tighten the drain plug in the oil pan. When doing an oil change, many of the gorillas in the oil change pits are not aware that the oil is not under pressure in the pan, and only enough torque is needed to keep the drain from dripping, which is not all that tight when a fresh gasket is used. Personally, I go with snug, probably 15ftlbs, and have never stripped a pan or had a leak. Just make sure that whoever does the oil change doesn't go for the "tighter is better" theory and you should do just fine.
Jim
I haven't been here for awhile, but am happy to report that my '01 Elantra is still humming along well at over 30,000 miles. But, it's time for the tranny fluid and filter change and I need some advice.
I took it to my local garage to avoid the $400 30,000 mile service "special" at my dealership. I first found out that the filter (yes, I know know that not all '01's have them)is a dealer ONLY part ($26!). While picking up the filter, the parts man warned me about the type of ATF fluid I buy.
So, the service has not yet been performed and I'm now concerned about where to take it and what to buy. The owner's manual specifically states that the warranty will be voided by the wrong fluid (of course!). But I find it hard to believe that I may have to go to the dealer and pay $5-$10 a quart for fluid. Can I not purchase Quaker State, etc.? I'm not exactly a dummy about this stuff but would really appreciate some input from you folks. Thanks in advance!
After further consideration that's exactly what I'm doing. I went on the NHTSA site the other day to check up on their TSBs for the Elantra. One I came across, regarding the ATF drain plug (placement) strongly advised the use of Hyundai fluids to avoid eratic shifting. I did, however, change my own antifreeze, so keep your fingers crossed for me!! Thanks again for the advice.
That being said, I suggest you order a Fumoto oil drain valve (PN #F106) for $22.95 plus $3 s&h.
http://www.fumotovalve.com/
I received mine about 4 days after placing the order.
I'm still very happy with the car, even with a few minor issues. I even had Hyundai send me a survey asking me about the quality of my car, and they asked me quote a few specific questions about items that have been noted in these forums. So, Hyundai knows about some of these issues, and I know they have done a LOT to fix them too and make sure to ask people about them. No wonder why Consumer Reports said in the auto issue I got today that "Hyundai was also among the best 2002 brands - a striking turnaround from its poor showing 10 years ago." With my old Grand Am, I don't remember GM ever asking me specific things about my car. So, although I don't have a perfect Hyundai, I am willing to put up with a few quirks while they perfect their quality and get up there to Japanese levels
Take a look at recent posts in the Hyundai Elantra board. Based on CR's annual survey, it appears that Hyundai has caught up with Honda and is just a little behind Toyota for defects in 2002 models. An amazing turnaround.
The trim that is coming loose is on each front door in a very small area around the lower back corner where the black trim meets the window. I noticed another Elantra in the parking lot at work today that had the same issue. The dealership said they could stick another piece of trim on, but that this particular piece of trim is a bit tricky to replace (and that the replacement piece could end up doing worse in the long run -- witness the bubbling effect that show up on various cars that have aftermarket tinted windows installed, for example). So, I said that as long as it wasn't going to come off any more, then I'll just live with it for now. I guess I can post pictures of this on here if necessary, as it's kind of hard to explain just what exactly is happening with this.
Like I said before, these are just some minor issues -- I would still recommend the Elantra to my friends and family.
My wife was driving our automatic transmission '02 GT yesterday and she told me that immediately after getting gas at a station we've used in the Hyundai before, (and paying the highest average price in the country here in California, but that's another story ;-)), while she was in the middle of a u-turn, the car just lost power (both momentum and electrical, apparently the power steering went out too). She had to coast through the u-turn and pull over. When she went to put the car in Park, she said it made a grinding noise. She said she was fully stopped at that point. Then she shut the car off for about 30 seconds, restarted it and everything was fine. Any ideas? Would bad gas cause such a problem so quickly after fill up? If so, should we expect this problem for the duration of the tank?
My GT is only two months old, and yes just as it hit 800 miles two days ago, I started to have the trouble shifting from 2nd into 3rd gear, and my car now begins to pull to the left slightly as I'm driving below 45 mph, and pulls to the right from take-off...I'm beginning to think I got me a lemon as well...Luckily for me I haven't started to have anything else go wrong, no engine noises other than the rough rpm's staying way up...I wonder why they do that???
I'm heading into the dealership tomorrow morning to see what they say...I don't want them to get into fixing it, I just want to guage them a bit and see if they tell me they've had similar complaints...My salesman is also a friend of mine outside of the job I've known for a couple years, so he wouldn't lie to me I know that much...If there are apparent problems with the GT's, I'm trading mine in at 6 months, and getting something else and just swallowing the loss in my wallet...I can't drive a car like this, I don't feel safe in it...
DAN
He then told me that the tires inflate 4lbs more when they get hot, so if you got em at 40 plus lbs when cold, they go to the max of 44 P.S.I. and will also cause a drift as they are now overinflated...Basically keeping them at 35 allows the tire to expand as it wants to without effecting the drive...
I did this and my GT drives like it did when I drove it off the lot two months ago...Oh and I also confirmed that the GT's love to be driven above 4000 rpm when shifting during the breakin period...You'll get better shifting, smooth transition into gears, and maximum horsepower...
DAN
Thats one for the books eh? That 6 yr/60K warranty is starting to come in handy. Glad you got it fixed. This could show up if you use a high pressure car wash often. Thanks for the tip.
Has anyone had any issues with their Aluminum rims? when I say 'issues' I mean the lustre fading, on mine it's faded on the back rims around the centre on the spokes. It looks like someone has taken a wirepad and scratched the surface. I live in Ontario and have just gone through a terrible winter(snow, ice, salt) but I don't think those factor would wear the rims???
As well, paint has peeled from the rear passenger doors on the edging near the bottom? both doors??
I'm taking the car in today and leaving for a day or so to see what they say...I'll update this post in a couple fo days. I still enjoy driving my GT but am a little concerned of the quality. This isn't my first issue, and people I know that have purchased the car have expreienced many problems...they just don't post them like us.
Also my rims finish is wearing off as well. My car is a little more than 5 months old.
Please keep us posted on your efforts. I know I will be dealing with Hyundais 3 year paint warranty.. Other than the finish I have no complaints.
They are unsure why the paint had peeled/chipped in such an odd location but they are going to repair it. I just have to bring the car back in to leave for a couple days. As far as the RIMS goes they have not heard/seen this on the Alluminum RIMS? they were going to get in touch with Hyundai Canada to see what they can do for me?? who knows? hopefully there are more complaints. I'll keep everyone updated, they've been pretty good thus far. Of course, I'm sure the customer service will vary from dealer to dealer. Oh yeah! as a bonus they are replacing my grill, the paint seemed to have taken a beating there as well...I expected chips etc as I drive a ton in poor weather but never expected the damage that was done to the grill this winter.
I neglected to mention the front of my car. 7500 miles and its pitted and as you mentioned my chrome(plastic) grill is all pitted as well. The hood is not too bad but the front fascia is more pitted then I expected after 7500 miles.
Definitely shoot me a mail on your progress as I will have to live through it. At this rate my car will look like crap at 20K miles.
I forgot to mention another small issue that I had repaired. The side view mirrors were intermitently not working. At first I thought it may just be the cold weather? then the weather turned warm(last week, here in Ontario) and they were still giving me problems. I mentioned this to my Hyundai dealer and they replaced the motor, they both work properly now.
Oh, one other issue -- has anyone here ever heard a slight clanging noise coming from the back of the car when going over certain bumps in the road? It sounds like the license plate to me (and if that's it, then good -- I just hope it's not the exhaust system or something else back there that's a little bit more important!).
Again, I recommend the Elantra -- I'm lucky to have a dealership that's willing to work with me on these minor issues I have had with it.