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Hyundai Elantra Prices Paid and Buying Experience

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Comments

  • helpermatthelpermatt Member Posts: 9
    Yes the Doc Fee is done by every dealer I know of. This fee pays for us handling the Motor Vehicle work and any other documents needed. It basically helps pay our tittle clerk and the office ladies that make sure all the paperwork is done properly. In many states this fee is capped by the state so most dealers will be close to each other in their fee. Here in New Jersey I have seen it from $119 to $199. So the answer to your question is yes it is legit (yes it is also profit for the dealership as well). Also rarely if you ask to see the invoice are you shown a fake. That was done years ago and almost every Manufacturer out there will take the franchise away from any dealer doctoring or faking an invoice. The Advertising charge is not crap. There are some regions that do not include one but most do. It is money earmarked for advertising locally. So if you are asking is this money that goes into the hands of Hyundai not really, it goes to advertising their product which they agree is a needed expense. Just be careful about your intrest rate and you should be fine. You could probably haggle a few hundred dollars more if you really fight for it, but you said your salesman was nice and BS free. I wouldnt argue and be happy it was a good experience.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Can you tell us which regions add the advertising fee to the invoice and which do not? That would be very helpful to know. Also, is it a fixed charge or does it vary by region? Thanks.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    Regarding Doc Fees - I have a question that I have always wanted to ask an honest sales person. I am in North Carolina, and I have heard several dealers say it is "illegal" to not charge the Doc Fee. They say that if they don't charge it to one person, and someone who actually paid it finds out, then they could be sued for not charging it across the board. I always assumed this was just a BS statement that dealers just spewed back to try to charge the fee. I was just curious (in your area) what exactly are the legalities associated with charging or waiving the Doc Fee? I typically ask what the Doc Fee is at the beginning of negotiations, and ask that the sales person / manager quote all vehicle pricing with the fee included. I don't like negotiating, and then at the end having the Doc Fee appear out of the blue.
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    Doc fees and regulations on them vary from state to state. Some states regulate this fee and a dealer cannot charge more.

     

    In California, the "doc fee" is regulated and set at a fixed non-negotiable amount. In other states the "doc fee" is not regulated so the dealership can charge anything they like so you can negotiate on it.

     

    Check your state's Attorney General's office web site to see if your state regulates the fees and if so, what the fee is. Print this out and take it with you to the dealership (even if your state doesn't, you can at least say you know that and negotiate the doc fee$).
  • helpermatthelpermatt Member Posts: 9
    I dont know every regions charges, but yes it does vary by region. In say New England it costs more to advertise than say Kansas.
  • thndrstmthndrstm Member Posts: 47
    We are considering buying an Elantra by the summer. Any ideas which way the incentives might move over the next few months. I would guess up since the 06 will be updated.
  • u4eau4ea Member Posts: 5
    I'm guessing $2K since that's what it was on the '04s when they wanted to get rid of them. Also, last summer is when they sold out of the '04s in the Seattle area, so they will want to get rid of the '05s by then too.

    You could even keep your eye out of any new rebates in these next few months since there are great deals now (see my post #770).

    Good luck,

    U4EA
  • craigpcraigp Member Posts: 2
    I've seen a number of posts that say "I wouldn't pay $xxx over invoice..." How do you get to invoice as a starting point of negotiations? Sorry if this is a stupid question, but does it work to say, "Let me see an invoice"? And if they're willing to produce one, then to say, "I want that price, in addition to the rebate"?

     

    Originally I had a couple of offers that I thought were decent, until I saw some of the postings here. Any negotiating tips that you have would be appreciated...

     

    Thanks,

    Craig
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    You can get invoice numbers from several sources, including right here at Edmunds.com. Look up the car in the New Cars section and follow the Pricing links. It will show you the MSRP and the invoice. Print it and take it with you to the dealer. If they challenge the number, you can ask them to show you their invoice.
  • craigpcraigp Member Posts: 2
    Wow -- four minutes for a response! And to think when somebody hit my car, leading me to look for a new one, there was a point at which it took four DAYS for my insurance company to call me back (yes, I'm switching insurers).

     

    Anyway, another question: I'm looking for a GLS 5-speed hatchback, moonlit blue, with cruise, in the Cleveland area. Is it reasonable to expect that I can get a dealer to find me such a specific request, at this aggressive pricing?

     

    Thanks again for your help!

    Craig
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Maybe. 5-speeds are fairly rare. So if you want a specific color and only cruise for options, that might be tough. But it is reasonable for your dealer to search the region for a car that meets your needs, if they don't have one in stock, and trade the other dealer for that car. If they won't do that, try another dealer. There may be a charge to transport the car to you, depending on how far away it is.
  • u4eau4ea Member Posts: 5
    i'm assuming that price is after rebate?
    check out post 770. you could do a tad better....
  • lathamlatham Member Posts: 33
    I saw an ad on a nearby Hyundai Dealer's web page for a base 2005 Elantra GLS manual for $7888 after every rebate Hyundai offered (One at this price). I qualified for all but the military ($500) and loyalty ($750), so I decided it sounded good. I called the dealership, they told me they had the car, my wife and I went down, and we bought it.

    They gave it to us for
    $9,123
    + TTL (including taxes on mfr rebates)
    -------
    $10,302 OTD!!

    After a brief misunderstanding in which the people at the dealership were fairly helpful, I'm pleased with the experience, and very pleased with the car for the price. We had been looking at some good used values, but for that price, we just couldn't pass it up.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Wow! It's hard to do better than that! Or to get more car for less money than that. Congratulations! But that dealer should take the offer off their web site now, shouldn't they...
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    The dealer will probably just replace that specific vehicle with the next oldest one in that price range.
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    That would be great, but then there's no need for them to say "one only", right?
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    We say "one only" to build urgency. Also some times it truly is only one car. Maybe the one thats been damaged, got som miles on it, been on the lot too long, an undesireble color etc....
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I thought the "one only" (usually in very small print) was used more to lure buyers in with a super-low price and then try to up-sell them a costlier model ("Oh sorry, that car was sold this morning"). ;-)
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    That is part of it, but if we tell you that the car is sold then we need to be able to show you that it truly is. Its more like "oh, you wanted an automatic transmission?"
  • vksanvksan Member Posts: 2
    Could you please tell me if this is a decent quote or can I get better.
    I am buying a '05 Elantra GLS Auto fully loaded with ABS ,traction control, Sunroof for my wife probably in this next week or next. I received some quotes thru carsdirect.com . I have been quoted in the range of $15000 - $15475 out of door includes $1750 cash back . Basically all of the dealers are sticking to the invoice price which I checked from Edmunds.com. I live in Metro Detroit area.
    Thanks
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    6% tax right?
    It sounds like you are close to invoice depending on doc fees etc...
    I don't know how much cheaper you can expect to pay. Yes the dealer is still making some money, but no salesman is cashing his commission and going to Hawaii.
  • vksanvksan Member Posts: 2
    Yes tax is 6%
  • george_sgeorge_s Member Posts: 6
    I received this offer for an '05 Elantra GLS from O'Brien's of Champaign, IL:

    2005 Hyundai Elantra GLS
    Automatic
    Cruise control - 200
    AM/FM/CD - 350
    ABS - 595
    MSRP - 15862
    Sale - 15198

    Sale Price - 15198
    Trade Allow - 500 (est. only - site unseen - trade is '91 Olds Cutlass Calais with rough paint, mechanical issues, and 125,000 miles - I'll just be glad to have it gone and to be able to transfer the plates)
    Difference - 14698
    Doc Fee - 55.39
    Sales Tax - 922 (6.25%)
    Xfer plates - 80
    Subtotal - 15755
    Rebate - 1750
    Total - 14005.39

    He had given me a previous offer on an Automatic GLS without the options listed above and indicated that that quote included the destination charge, so I know I need to verify that the above offer also includes that $545 destination charge. I looked at Edmund's TMV, and if I remember right, this comes out to about $100 or so over that (though I could be wrong on that - forgot to write it down). I'm thinking of recouping that $100 by asking for him to throw in the carpeted floor mats and the trunk cargo net at the same price listed above.

    I think the $1750 rebate expires on 2/28 - any thoughts on what rebate (if any) will be available after that? Can I ask if he can guarantee that cost savings (either through a rebate or some other means) even after 2/28? He hasn't applied any pressure by telling me it expires soon, though I did email him this morning and asked him how long it is good for.

    I'm also not sure if he has this car on the lot, or if he'd have to trade for it. Color is not a concern for me, though I would like to stay away from black, white, or silver (the color of the Olds that I'm trading).

    Thanks for your help!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Hard to tell what rebates will be in the future, but personally I think they would tend to stay stable or increase vs. decrease. It's a crap shoot, though.

    The dealer's offer looks to me like it has more room in it, looking at MSRP vs. their offering price. Be sure to ask them what their offer is WITHOUT your trade-in. Then you'll know what the real discount is.

    You might check on prices in Chicago to see how they compare. Even if you don't want to go there to buy a car, you can use them as leverage with the local dealer.
  • mike91326mike91326 Member Posts: 251
    I went to Carsdirect.com and put in your zip code and numbers. Their price before the $1750 rebate is $14,723. I would go to Carsdirect, print out the numbers and take it to the dealer. Tell them to match the price or you'll buy it through Carsdirect. I'm sure they will match it.
  • george_sgeorge_s Member Posts: 6
    My thanks to you both, backy and mike! One other question - I just noticed that he's taking the rebate off after taxes are calculated - is that the normal way of doing this? That means I'm paying taxes on the rebate.

    Thanks again!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    This practice seems to vary by state. In my state (MN), the rebates are deducted before sales tax is calculated. But I've heard that in other states, the tax is calculated before rebates are applied. Since the dealer does this all the time, they should know the correct practice. But if you want to be sure, you could check with the IL Department of Revenue.
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    In Illinois sales tax is calculated on the net sale price after trade in. You should not be paying tax on the rebate.
  • dukepa1dukepa1 Member Posts: 4
    I just purchased a 2005 Elantra Hatchback, GLS for $11,480.25 plus tax and tags from a Dealer here in Deerfield Beach, FL. Think this is a good price. Am I correct ? I played 3 Dealers against each other to get this price. In fact, I actually agreed to pay $400 more 2 days earlier and the Dealer refused. When I called back I accidently got a different Salesman ( with the same name )and he gave me the car for $400 less. So, I wasn't going to refuse. Whats a Car Buyer to do ?Indeed.
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    If you bought a 5-speed with no options, then your price is about 400-500 below invoice which is a very good deal. If it has more equipment, then it is an excellent deal. Either way if you are happy with the price I'd say you did well.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,149
    An auto writer for a large U.S. newspaper is looking for a few recent Hyundai or Kia buyers to ask them what they think of their cars. He's also is interested in talking to those who are thinking of buying a Hyundai or Kia. His deadline is Friday, March 4. If you're interested in being interviewed for his story, please respond to Kirsten Holguin at kholguin@edmunds.com.

    MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
    Need help navigating? kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
    Share your vehicle reviews

  • dukepa1dukepa1 Member Posts: 4
    Oh yeah, forgot to mention, on the 2005 Elantra Hatchback GLS I just purchased, it was automatic with the Cruise Option and the upgraded CD, 6 speaker option. Paid $11,480.25 before taxes and tags. Had to beat up several Dealers for this price, but I think it was worth it. Anyone with a better deal than this ?
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    There's always someone with a better deal. ;-) The important thing is that you feel you got a good deal--which seems to be the case. Enjoy your new Elantra!
  • george_sgeorge_s Member Posts: 6
    I got another dealer to offer the same car as in my original post for $13700, out the door, everything included (I learned yesterday the new incentive for March is the same - $1750). When I did the math on the carsdirect price to get an out-the-door figure, it came to about $13500. I asked the original dealer if he could get closer to the $13500.
  • dglozmandglozman Member Posts: 178
    Elantra GLS, A/T, Package #4 . Current 1999 Elantra owner (not going to trade in). Live in NY so taxes 8.65%

    Thanks
  • ak267ak267 Member Posts: 2
    I've called two Omaha-area Hyundai dealers and I'll see what kind of a deal I can get (2005 GLS Elantra, AC, Auto). I'm learned to be skeptical about some of these "loss-leaders" ads as they always seem to be sold right before I get there (or they end up as a cheap base model).

    I've seen 2005 Elantras (before haggling and trade-in) in the mid 12K's. I think I can do better with a little competition.

    I've thought of calling the salesperson right outside of their offices and asking for one of these "loss-leader" vehicles. Right after the call is completed, I'll pop through the door and ask to see it.

    Sounds kind of devious :)
  • n36078n36078 Member Posts: 3
    What is Hyundai's typical rebate? Current for an Elantra is $1750 + $750 loyalty because I have a winter rat '94 Excel (deathtrap). Is the March 31 expiration a real stop or do they run this deal all the time?

    As for price - there are two nearby dealers that pretty much instantly went to invoice and offered to do a dealer swap to get a car.

    Neither has exactly what I want on the lot (and not available in the region) so I am planning to wait until the end of the month and buy what is on the lot and closest to requirements with a Capitol One 5% loan check. If they tend to hold the rebates in place I will get the check so that it goes until at least May and hold off on the purchase for longer in hopes of a better rebate. I have to replace the Excel by July 31 due to inspection - it will not pass again.

    My guess is that they will try to make the money on dealer fees for getting the plates and other junk.

    Dave
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    $2500 total rebates is as much as I've seen on the Elantra. I am trying to think if they ever had $3000 ($2000 + $1000 loyalty) but I think that's been offered only on larger cars like the Sonata and XG. The mix changes over time, however. When I bought my GT in March '04, the mix was $1500 regular rebate and $1000 owner loyalty. When the new Elantra is introduced later this year or next year, the rebates could increase on the current models, but you never know.
  • dglozmandglozman Member Posts: 178
    well, Just bought Elantra GLS Package#4 A/T. OTD price is $13,250 (including taxes 8.65%)
  • danf1danf1 Member Posts: 897
    In the Eastern region the largest combination so far has been 2500. That is where it is at currently 1750 + 750 loyalty. Of course they also have 400 college grad and 500 military.
  • w2323w2323 Member Posts: 60
    Look at edmunds, carsdirect, and others to get the invoice price for the base car your looking at.

    Then subtract the rebate (carsdirect tells you this when you put in your zipcode), mine in Florida is 1750.00

    So for instance:

    The invoice for the GLS 4 dr 5 manual in florida is:

    $12,302
    subtract 1,750
    For a total of $10,552 for a base GLS.

    If you have options get the invoice price for each at carsdirect.com and add that to it.

    Now don't be scared to offer the exact invoice price that you calculate. Then go up if need be I've paid as little as 200 over invoice.

    Remember theres always more dealerships and all they will do is counter offer, and take your keys haha.

    "NEVER" work from the MSRP, and try to avoid any b.s. cost the dealership trys to add in later.

    Such as extended warrenties, paint protection or undercoating stuff, or dealership fees.

    The dealership fee is a hard one to avoid at some dealerships but uit's possible.

    Also keep your trade out of your talks till near the end, and don't put your current car down, act like it's a gem.

    Go at em!!!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    I talked to a co-worker the other day who used to sell cars. I was surprised when he told me he never negotiates car purchases--he buys through AAA. He said he does that because it's impossible for an individual car buyer to know ALL the discounts available on a car, including the "special" discounts that go to the dealer, special incentive programs etc. So even if you get the car for invoice less manufacturer-to-consumer rebates, you may be leaving lots of money on the table. Interesting perspective, I thought...
  • jamesyhjamesyh Member Posts: 2
    Hi dglozman,

    Your OTD price (including NY 8.625% salestax) $13,250 for Elantra GLS A/T plus Option Pkg
    4/AD is incredibly low. Much lower than the
    TMV, KBB or other on-line price quotes.

    Is your GLS a 4-dr sedan or 5-dr hatchback?

    Can you inform the dealership's name and city
    (as allowed by the Forum)? And How did you make
    it?

    I plan to buy a GLS 5-dr A/T plus option #4
    in NYC, but the quotes I've got are all over
    $14,200 (OTD).
  • SylviaSylvia Member Posts: 1,636
    You may include the dealership name, city and state in your post. Please do not post names of salespeople, telephone numbers, email addresses, or other contact information.
  • cjp1cjp1 Member Posts: 1
    Hi --

    Looking to buy a 2005 Elantra GLS (5-door manual, plus CD and cruise)in New York. They offered to sell it for:

    $13,700
    - 1750 (rebate)
    - 600 (trade-in)

    11,350 (before taxes and titles).

    Is this a good deal? Please advise. Im thinking of asking to go lower (college credit and dont want cruise)

    Assistance much appreciated
  • jprybajpryba Member Posts: 201
    In my area (Columbus, OH), our Hyundai dealerships have been offering discounts of $1200-1600 on the Elantra as of late. Combine that with the $1750 rebate plus the owner loyalty, and that's one heck of a good deal.

    I'm hoping that some of the "deals" people on here are talking about include some sort of discount in addition to the rebate and owner loyalty. Remember that the rebate and owner loyalty come out of Hyundai's pockets, not the dealer's. So don't feel guilty about asking for a discount on top of the other incentives!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    The invoice on this car is $13,580, so an offer of $13,700 before rebates is pretty good. BUT what I recommend you do is ask the dealer what the price is BEFORE figuring the trade-in. They may be giving you less than your trade-in is worth to subsidize the discount on the new car. Just tell them you might sell it yourself, so you'd like the price w/o trade. In general, it's always best to get a firm price before bringing up the trade-in.

    You can always make a lower offer. The worst that can happen is they say is "no". But they could say "yes". Right now, near the end of the month, is the best time to do that--the dealer might be eligible for a special bonus if they sell a certain number of cars for the month, so one more sale could be important to them.

    Since you don't want cruise, you might ask the dealer to locate for you a car with no options--that would knock $456 (invoice) off the price. You can always add a CD stereo later, for less money and get a better unit besides, or get one of those cassette adapters for your portable CD or MP3 player for $20. But consider that the car may be easier to sell later with cruise--a lot of people like it.

    One thing to check on is if there are any "auto show" rebates in effect right now, since the New York Auto Show is on. Hyundai offered a $500 rebate during the Twin Cities Auto Show, but this year it was only on the Sonata. But that might vary by location.

    Check to see if you qualify for the college grad rebate, if you are close to graduation.
  • dglozmandglozman Member Posts: 178
    We bought it (Elantra GLS 4-dr sedan A/T, package 4) at Plaza Auto Mall on Nostrand Ave at Brooklyn. Note, that our prize includes $750 owners rebate. You might be able to get an additional $ 500 off if you attend auto show this week. Make sure you OFFER ( don't ask for) OTD price that includes everything (taxes, all fees...) Tell them that you already have an offer for let say $13,500 OTD, and if they will beat that price, you will buy this car today.

    Good luck!
  • backybacky Member Posts: 18,949
    Personally I like to negotiate the price of the car first (simpler), then add on the taxes and license fees (which are not negotiable) afterwards--making sure that the dealer doesn't try to tack on any extraneous fees beyond the usual doc fee. But if negotiating total price works for you, go for it.
  • jamesyhjamesyh Member Posts: 2
    Thanx for your advice. Working on it. Hope to get a better deal.

    One dealer did offer $500 discount for NY Int'l Auto Show participants, but it is only available for Hyundai owners--in addition to the $750 owner rebate. Not for me this time.
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