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Comments
Apparently, the legend is a myth.
I doubt that I'll ever waste my money on another Honda.
Okay, so the dealer wouldn't help you. Did you contact Honda directly? The number is in the back of your Owners Manual.
Good luck.
Hope this helps.
"Integrating TCS, ABS, and stability enhancement processes, the VSA system constantly monitors eight vehicle sensors that compare the driver's control inputs with the vehicle's actual response. If the actual response falls outside a calculated response range -- i.e., the vehicle is beginning to understeer severely -- VSA automatically attempts to intervene with corrective action. In the case of understeer (where the vehicle continues in a straight line rather than turning), VSA applies braking to the inside front wheel and reduces engine power -- helping to bring the car back onto the driver's intended line. In the event of oversteer (which can lead to a spin), VSA applies braking to the outside front wheel to counter the unintended yawing tendency." [emphasis added]
There are four sensors for the wheels... one at each corner even though the rear wheels will act on one channel. That leaves four sensors unaccounted for (steering input, yaw, throttle, and I'm honestly not sure about the 4th). In the materials for the new RL, they clearly describe VSA with a yaw sensor.
"Vehicle Stability Assist (VSA(R)) is standard equipment on the RL. It uses electronic traction control and ABS functions, combined with a yaw and longitudinal/lateral acceleration sensors to quickly detect if the vehicle is about to understeer or oversteer. It then reduces engine output and applies one or more individual brakes, to stabilize the vehicle-often before the driver is even aware of the instability."
For what it's worth, Consumer Reports (I think it was CR) rated the earlier Acura's VSA lower than systems from other companies because it did not act with all four brakes. I'm not sure if this has been changed as several Hondas and Acuras now have 4-channel systems. These include the S2000, Ody, Pilot, MDX, RL and probably a few others. However, enthusiast magazines have always lauded Acura's VSA because it is the least intrusive when driving a vehicle hard. This is true even with the 4-channel RL. VSA will save your bacon when you get too exuberant in the corners, but it will not shut everything down before you even hit the turn (like a Lexus will).
"So far, the hard acceleration from start has caused the VSA light to flash."
That would actually be TCS (traction control) in action, not VSA. The two are more or less one package in the CR-V, but have been implemented separately. My 2001 TL, for example, has TCS but not VSA. Anyway... the point is they have distinct functions. Traction control steps in with the brakes or throttle control if one of the wheels gets moving faster than the other drive wheel. VSA works - not to provide traction - but to steer the vehicle. Getting both drive wheels to match up in speed would not correct a steering problem.
So, anyway, I gotta figure there's yaw and steering sensors in there.
A mechanic I trust said he thought it was probably the rotors. But when he took the brakes and rotors apart, he said there was nothing wrong them. They were in great shape and nothing needed to be done to them. He took the car out for a drive to see if he could duplicate the problem, but of course it didn't shake for him. He basically told me to wait until the problem was happening 100% of the time and then he could diagnose it. I haven't tried another mechanic yet. Does anyone here have any suggestions? I'm wanting to sell the car but I want this taken care of first. Thanks!
The 2nd gen CR-V does not offer it. :mad:
If I may make a request. Let's move the non-problem related questions and discussion over to the main CR-V thread. Some drifting off topic or into the area of general performance/functionality is expected. That's fine. But if we keep filling up this thread with general banter, it will become easy to lose actual problems as the post count climbs.
Thanks!
2.) Take off the headrest.
3.) Pull the back seat all the way back.
4.) Relcine the back seat as much as possible.
5.) Recline the front seat flat.
6.) Go to sleep.
varmint, "Honda CR-V" #15040, 8 Nov 2005 1:11 pm
My dealer is quoting twice the cost that your message shows.
Thanks
I wouldn't consider this a problem, that is a characteristic of K-series engine. It is more of a grunt, that groan. It makes it sound more like a truck.
Two, vibration in vehicle when stopped and the car is in gear. Honda is telling me this is a characteristic of the Honda CRV. Anyone else have these problems.
I have stick, so no problem here :-)
Zax
MARYB
I presume you have at least a 30-day Warranty on the purchase...
You could go to an independant specializing in Hondas and have them read and tell you what the OBD (On Board Diagnostic) codes stored in the computer, also forcing the Check Engine Light (CEL) mean. ((Just make sure they don't reset the CEL!)) Then you'll have a better handle on what the dealership is going to do for you (free).
Some people claim the auto-parts store chains will do this for you for free to win your business on parts and supplies, etc.
It could be as simple as a Gas-Cap problem not forming a good seal so when the system does a vacuum check on the fuel system, it fails. Or it could be something much more serious.
This is why I'm suggesting you get to an independant first to have knowlege in your pocket to use if necessary.
You shouldn't have gotten a vehicle that throws a CEL. I would think the dealership (Honda?) should accomodate you.
And I wouldn't hold my breath on your sales consultant getting back to you. I'd immediately take it to the service advisior. Explain that you just bought the car and politely "demand" this be fixed at no charge.
Did you buy the vehicle from a Honda dealer? If so, they should do what's right and fix it for free. If not, then you're probably on your own.
First assumption for roaring noise would be old/deffected tire(s).
Vibation when stopped could be bakes related.
If that's not the case, then you really had a bad luck.
I've been tested around 10 new CRV's, 2WD, 4WD, those cars are a dream to drive ....and to stop:))
Dan
Has anyone "created" a PTTR condition by changing to a wider (65 or 60 series) tire?
Could a routine front end alignment at a non-Honda dealer undo the PTTR fix in the Honda TSB?
It's the fluid used in the rear differential to create the hydraulic pressure which activates the AWD. It's not a lubricant, like engine oil, but it does wear out over the course of 30-50K miles.
The fix described in the TSB had the mechanic rotate the spring about 45 degrees so that it locks in on a different notch on the housing. I don't think that's the kind of thing the dealer would mess with performing an ordinary alignment.
I've taken it to the dealer FOUR times now since I've had it and it's never done it for them, even when I drove with them. It happens at least 1 out of every 3 times I drive it, but there is NO pattern at all. I could possible go a couple of days and it won't do it, but it usually does it at least once a day. It doesn't matter if it's cold, hot, raining, snowing, full car, only me, junk in the trunk, empty trunk, brakes on/off, in park/drive, etc.
It doesn't seem to affect the performance of the vehicle at all (for now at least). It's just a stupid annoying clunk. If it doesn't happen within the first minute or two after stopping, it won't do it at all (during that particular "travel").
Someone PLEASE help me to figure out what this is so I can stop getting frustrated about it! The dealer can't just arbitrarily replace anything without knowing what it is.
I've noticed a strange, burning odor coming from the right rear of my brand new 2006 CRV after driving -- it now has 350 miles on the odometer.
I called my Honda dealer, and spoke with the very knowledgeable and friendly service manager.
He told me not to worry about the odor. this is the normal break-in smell from the exhaust system, which should be gone after the first 1,000 miles.
He also advised me that, in the winter months, I could expect to occasionally smell road-salt burning off the exposed exhaust system, and should not be concerned.
The max pressure is up there so that the tire may be used with heavier vehicles. A vehicle weighing in at, oh say... 4,000 lbs would apply enough pressure on a 44 psi tire to flatten it out. A 3,400 lbs CR-V won't and you'd be messing with the effectiveness of the contact patch.
Personally, I would never inflate my tires more than 4-5 psi higher than the recommended pressure. (Unless I were hauling heavy loads or towing.) That recommendation comes from engineers who tested the vehicle for performance, comfort, and safety. Who am I to second guess them.
That said, plenty of owners have gone above 30 psi and are happy with the results.
I believe I have them set at 32 psi and haven't seen any significant loss of mileage per gallon. FYI..in this neck of the woods I have had much better mileage output with the Sunoco gas (regular) than any other major brand. It's usually less expensive as well.
OEM Duelers:
30psi - 20mpg city, 24mpg highway - tread was 80% worn after 26,000 miles, tires rotated every 4,000 miles
Goodyear triple treads:
26psi - ride too soft and handling was spongy.
30psi - 19mpg city, 22mpg highway
35psi - 20mpg city, 23-24 mpg highway
At the same time I also replaced the battery - computer may be still calibrating for different driving style?
Gasoline used mostly Sunoco but also Shell, BP and Marathon regular grade. I try to stay away from non-branded fuels.