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tidester, host
Excuse me my ignorance, but what's "13 HP"? If the internet is right, it's like 1-2% reduction in MPG per 100 lbs.
A heavier driver will have worse fuel economy than a light weight driver
No wonder people are complaining about low MPG in winter -- they just have more clothes and carry all that extra weight from holidays
I think it is .2%, not 2%.
varmint, "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" #3, 22 Nov 2003 9:10 am
You can change the fluid yourself. It's no more difficult than an oil change. But it does need to be changed. otherwise you'll end up needing a whole new unit.
Since you are getting the same mileage on the highway as you are in the city, I would suspect aerodynamic issues before anything else. Air resistance accounts for approximately half the fuel used at speeds over 55 mph.
So, do you use a roof rack? Have you installed any other accessories (side steps, for example)?
This is not going to be an issue with weight (unless you overload the vehicle for long trips). Weight is mostly significant when you are frequently changing speeds. In other words, city driving. When you're cruising on the highway, weight is not a big factor.
BTW, I ran my tires at 28 psi and got better mileage than most others. I don't buy into the notion that you should inflate them above 30 psi.
No, it's 1-2% per 100 lbs. You can check by yourself:
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/103164/article.html
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/driveHabits.shtml
FWIW, I have an '06 EX w/5-spd.stick, also purchased in November, that I use almost exclusively for the 3-mile drive to my railroad station & for running local errands on weekends. I've averaged just a hair over 19 mpg so far, & I'm quite happy with that number. (I live in the NYC metro area, BTW.) Can't give you a highway number because I don't use my CR-V for that kind of driving.
Re highway mileage: don't forget that this is a boxy, high wind resistance vehicle & expect to burn a lot of extra fuel when you drive at 75 mph. See what happens when you hold your speed to 60-65 mph. Yeah, I know that this won't win you a lot of friends on the Mass Pike, but it should make a big difference in your fuel consumption. If you can bring yourself to set the cruise control to 60, you should easily hit the mid-20s.
Re break-in mileage: although this is my 1st CR-V, my experience with Honda cars goes back to the mid-70s. You'll probably see an uptick in fuel economy once you're north of 5K miles. (You're more likely to see an improvement in your highway numbers than your city numbers.)
To sum up: from what you say, your car is working OK. Slow down some on the highway, wait for spring to settle in & come back in a few weeks to let us know what happens.
"every 200 pounds of unnecessary weight shaves one mile per gallon off your fuel mileage."
Actually, the government site says that it varys based on the weight of the vehicle. Smaller vehicles are more affected by additional weight.
http://autos.msn.com/advice/article.aspx?contentid=4018909
0.5-MPG saving for a 25-MPG vehicle gives us exactly 2% saving. So, I guess, we are both right.
2% from the weight reduction
5% from the clean air filter
5% from proper oil
3% from inflated tires
10% from Acetone
and you got your self a 25% increase in fuel economy. 25% increase on a 25 mpg base brings you to over 30 mpg.
I've also had problems with the day/night rear view mirror, the accessory power jack blowing fuses, and now the cover to my visor mirror broke off!
I realize these are all minor problems, but doesn't it seem a little much, for a 3 month old vehicle?? Thanks for any advice anyone has.
I've also had problems with the day/night rear view mirror, the accessory power jack blowing fuses, and now the cover to my visor mirror broke off!
I realize these are all minor problems, but doesn't it seem a little much, for a 3 month old vehicle?? Thanks for any advice anyone has.
Are you sure you are not spraying the windshield while your window is down?
Is the actual hose leaking, or the washer fluid is getting there from when you spray the windshield. Maybe I have long legs, but I never touch the door sills. Maybe you should get side steps? I'd imagine with the road salt and other debris collecting there, my pants would be dirty all the time if I let them touch the sills.
Is this your first SUV? Do you have a small statue?
Wear blue jeans so it blends in :-)
Or, assuming a new car with no extra weight, clean air filter, proper oil, correctly inflated tires, and good-quality fuel already has 25 mpg, then you can get as much as a 25% decrease in fuel economy as you drive it with time in everyday situations. That brings you to less than 19 mpg. Works both ways, doesn't it?
I strongly recommend trying another dealer for service. If you can, contact Honda directly. They can open a case file for you and track the problem. Or, if you visit another dealer, have them contact the local zone office.
Good tip on the bluejeans--I'm surprised the service dept didn't recommend that, along with the recommendation to change to a different color of wiper fluid!
Definately not. I don't know the symptoms of burnt valves, but maybe someone else who knows here can chime in.
You have burnt valves because the car wa snot maintnaned properly. The valves on the B-series engines need to be adjusted every 30,000 miles, as they tighten with use. But, you are in luck, Honda made a mistake in the owner's manual by recommending valve adjustments at 90,000 miles instead of 30,000.
So, now that you have a diagnosis from your Honda dealer, you need to get on the phone and call Honda corporate (the number is in your OWNER's MANUAL). Honda has covered fully or partially depending on the mileage.
Good luck and keep us posted.
P.S. Just for the fact that the mechanic did not know this, you should not go to him anymore. You want someone who knows their stuff to work on your car, not an incompetent "parts replacer"
I wonder when Honda realized this and just simply didn't notify the owners.
I wonder when Honda realized this and just simply didn't notify the owners.
Well, it is not a simple mistake. This is what happens when MBA's without engineering degrees are allowed to make decisions.
Most likeley scenario is that Honda wanted to promote the CR-V as low maintnenance cost vehicle and they took a chance by publishing the 90,000 mile spec. But, Honda knows that they lied and are willing to fix it.
My valves were not noisy and my mileage is only 67K, and yet I am now having to have the head replaced because the valves were burned, seated too far into the cylinder head, had little or no compression in 2 cylinders and misfiring in 3 cylinders.
The Honda dealer is trying to tell me that this problem was caused by my using an independent service mechanic who put non-Honda spark plugs, wires, rotor and cap in it.
They also told me that the valve clearance should have been adjusted at 30K and 60K. Apparently Honda knows this
but no one else does because it is not in the book.
I bought the car only 7 months ago from another car dealer(non-Honda). I had the 60K service done at the shop where I bought it, because I had an extended service warranty from them. It began acting up shortly after that tune up, so I brought it back several times, but when they couldn't find the problem, they sent me over to the Honda dealer.
Fortunately, my service warranty is going to cover it, but it seems to me that Honda is not owning up to the problem. They are blaming the other mechanics for not doing it right, but ignoring the fact that the owners manual does not even say it needs doing.
I was on a gravel road pulling onto a paved road that was raised about 5 inches higher than the gravel road. As the front wheels reached the pavement as I slowly moved forward there was hesitation and the VSR kicked in an spun the back tires to push me up and onto the pavement. When I got on the pavement and started to accelerate, it started bucking when trying to switch into a higher gear (I'm not sure if it was 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th). I pulled over and saw the VSR light was on, the alert light (!) and the check engine light. I called the dealer who asked me to drive it to the service department, but I informed him that it wouldn't run without bucking and almost stalling. I told him I thought it would be safer to have it towed and he agreed.
Does anyone know what might have caused this? Let's just say I am very, very upset that my brand new car is defective like this. I purchased a new car so I wouldn't have to worry about being left stranded and that's what this honda did.
I will be in contact with the dealer tomorrow to see what they have uncovered regarding the defect but want to know if anyone else has heard of such occurances, and if anyone has any advice on how to handle this from a consumer perspective.
You are confusing the LOCAL DEALER with HONDA CORPORATE. It is not in local dealer's interest to have Honda Corporate to pay for it because Honda only pays them $40/hour in labor and only pays wholesale for the parts, while if they have you pay for it, they charge you $80/hour in labor and you pay retail (2x wholesale) for the parts.
Honda Corporate has owned up to the problem with most people who have contacted them. But, since you have extended warranty the warranty will pick up the tab.
As far as the dealer telling you that the spark plugs caused it, ask him if he is willing to testify in court.
Thanks....Ray
P.S. If you'd like, shoot me an e-mail (see profile) with a fax # and I'll be happy to fax it over.
"If your vehicle's battery is disconnected or the radio fuse is removed, the audio system will disable itself. If this happens, you will see CODE in the frequency display the next time you turn on the system. Use the preset buttons* to enter the the five digit code. .... When entered correctly, the radio will start playing.
If u make a mistake entering the code, do not start over; complete the five digit sequence, then enter the correct code. You have ten tries to enter the correct code. If u are unsuccessful in 10 attempts, u must leave the system on for 1 hour before trying again."
* LX - those are the three buttons, marked 1-2, 3-4, 5-6 in the middle of the face plate.
EX/SE - the six buttons 1 through 6 at the bottom of the face.
Good luck, and let us know if this helped.
If you don't have the little card with the code on it (about the size of a playing card with 4 or 6 digits on it and should be in the pouch with the owners manual), you'll have to call either Honda or a dealer service department to see if they can look it up for you. You'll need your vin# handy.
Thanks everybody!
jellyfish
I'm hoping that somebody can help me here.
My 2002 CR-V is in need of new rubber. I would like step up the quality of the original rubber. Mainly I'm looking for quiteness and smooth riding. The other thing is, I want to install slightly larger tires than the original 205/70-15. I want to keep the same rims, but gain height.
Has anybody gone taller? I'm thinking either 215 or 225/70.
Of course the tire peddlers don't want to really advise me here as they feel like I'm creating a huge problem for myself.
They say I should stick with my original size and that I might have to sign waivers if I insist on changing the size.
Does anybody know if the two sizes I'm considering will fit with plenty of clearance? I know speedometer will be off, but I really don't speed (much) anyway.
Your input is greatly desired. Thanks
Go read the review on TireRack.com
I got these ones for 2 weeks and love them...
Phil.
So the 215's fit with no clearance problemos? Did you notice any change with your speedometer? What did you gain in overall height, about an inch? Do you think the 225's would have fit? I read the reviews on TR.com. Some were favorable and some not. Main complaint was premature wear. My stock cheap BS Duellers that came with the car actually have gone over 60K with even wear. Would you consider the Yoko's a step in up in quality?
Are they quite, for that is what I'm really hoping for.
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Take a phillips head screw driver, remove the screws, and pull the plastic panel off. It's really that easy. You just have to be sure to get all the screws. There's a few hidden under the armrest (buried deep in holes) and another hidden under the latch. The rest are easy enough to find.
If I recall correctly, there are a few "plastic rivets" which must be removed as well. Sometimes these are referred to as acorn nuts. So removing the real screws will not result in a completely loose panel. You kinda have to take a leap of faith and tug the thing off.