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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • intothewildintothewild Member Posts: 2
    I have noticed a low throbbing sound coming from the front end of my 04 CRV with real time 4 wheel drive. It's not very loud, only noticeable on very smooth asphalt roads where there is virtually no road noise. It's also speed sensitive, getting a quicker tempo as my speed increases. I'm trying to decide if this is just normal, probably transaxle, sound; or if it might indicate something is not functioning properly. Has anyone else noticed something like this?
  • zarbazarba Member Posts: 30
    My wife drives a '97 CR-V. 115K miles. The torque converter won't lock up in cold weather. I have heard that this is related to the thermostat. I had a mechanic who knew about this issue, but he's left town, and no other mechanics seem to know what I'm talking about.

    In hot weather, it locks up just fine. We did replace with a slightly hotter thermostat, and it seemed to help for a bit, but hasn't eliminated the problem.

    Does anyone have information on what temp thermostat I need to install?
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Sorry, that's a new one to me.
  • zlinzlin Member Posts: 1
    My 2005 CR-V has a problem with the auto mode of power window (driver side). When I hit auto mode for rolling up the windown, it always stops in the half way and rolls back down a bit. I have to hold the bottom to roll the windown up. I sent the car back to the dealer twice and they claimed to fix the problem by re-setting and re-initating the function (I doubt strongly). Actually it worked for only one day and the problem returns. Can anyone give me suggestions? Thanks a lot.

    Zee
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,588
    ...relating to the tray table between the front seats.. ;)

    Sorry.. it is the only problem I have..

    Anyway, the lever that releases the table to fold down just spins... I can reach under the table and push the hinge back manually, so that it will fold down (no idea I could do this before), but I can't figure out what is missing from the lever.

    I laid down in the floor (harder than it sounds) to look under the table, but I can't tell what is wrong.. Is there a piece broken off of the lever? Anyone else have this problem, and if so, is it an easy fix?

    I thought I'd be able to tell just by looking, but it is hard to see under there and I can't figure it out..

    Thanks,
    kyfdx

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  • un_limitedun_limited Member Posts: 5
    Ditto! I noticed this after my first servicing. I have notified the dealership and just received a call from them saying it was due to alignment and wheel balancing issues. It can be noticed very well a low speeds and very smooth roads. So I am going in today to test drive it myself and confirm if the issue is resolved.
  • intothewildintothewild Member Posts: 2
    Interesting. How many miles on your vehicle? Mine has 34,000 miles. My dealer is saying they don't hear anything out of the ordinary, but I'm wondering if they really took the time to test it on the type of road I told them to.
  • mistrssmiamistrssmia Member Posts: 1
    I drive a 2000 CR-V that is at about 95,000 mi. Since about the middle of winter, it began stalling every once in a while when I approached a stop. I took it in to get fixed, and my mechanic said that nothing was wrong with it except for the spark plugs, which he replaced.

    However... something is definitely wrong with it. The stalling is getting worse and worse and more annoying every day that goes by! I'm taking it in to the mechanic AGAIN, but I'd like to give him something to look for this time, in hopes that it will actually get fixed. Has anyone else had this problem? Can you PLEASE help? I don't know much about cars, so any info would be helpful.

    THe only time that it doesn't stall out at every stop sign is if it's been running for 10 minutes before I put it in gear and take off... or if I've been driving for about 20 minutes or so.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I drive a 2000 CR-V that is at about 95,000 mi. Since about the middle of winter, it began stalling every once in a while when I approached a stop. I took it in to get fixed, and my mechanic said that nothing was wrong with it except for the spark plugs, which he replaced.

    However... something is definitely wrong with it. The stalling is getting worse and worse and more annoying every day that goes by! I'm taking it in to the mechanic AGAIN, but I'd like to give him something to look for this time, in hopes that it will actually get fixed. Has anyone else had this problem? Can you PLEASE help? I don't know much about cars, so any info would be helpful.

    THe only time that it doesn't stall out at every stop sign is if it's been running for 10 minutes before I put it in gear and take off... or if I've been driving for about 20 minutes or so.

    When were the valves adjusted last time?
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    Unfortunately, stalling can be caused by several issues. It's very difficult to pin point the exact cause. Sometimes it is a combination of issues.

    I had the problem once and all it required was to have the throttle body cleaned.
  • redsox111redsox111 Member Posts: 8
    Is the right way to check your engine oil on a leveled surface and making sure the engine is cold?
  • drive62drive62 Member Posts: 637
    Level yes, cold not so sure. I wait until the oil has dripped back into the pan, usually takes 10 minutes or so after shutting off the car. The car isn't cold at that point.
  • david73david73 Member Posts: 1
    I have experienced this in my 97 CR-V with 70,000 miles. It seems to happen only while keeping the speed constant (no acceleration or deceleration).

    I have brought mine back to the dealer and they cannot find anything wrong. Alignment, tires, suspension all appear to be OK.

    This problem has gotten progressively worse as time goes by. At times it has caused the entire front end to shake through to the steering column.

    I would appreciate any help or resolutions you may come across.

    Thanks
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Varmint, I'm in Massachusetts like you. I recall you have used Master Mechanics Automotive in Natick for service as an alternative to the dealer. Per their web site they specialize in Hondas. I'm shopping them vs several local dealers for front brakes and turning roters (nasty rotor warp under load). You ever had them do brake work and are they more competitive?
  • varmintvarmint Member Posts: 6,326
    They do brake work, but I can't recall whether their prices are competitive. We take our vehicles to them because they're good. Not necessarily because they're inexpensive.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    FYI I just called both. They are basically the same as the dealer for front pads and rotor resurface (~$200). They did say however that the rears often just require $55 pads and be done. Dealer said typically another $200 for rear. I'm going to give your Natick place a try, they sound good.
  • mccshaunmccshaun Member Posts: 3
    Hello! Has anyone had a problem with their compressor 'exploding?' The dealer says that the compressor came apart internally, causing the entire system to be contaminated with metal parts. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Do a search of this forum on "compressor exploded" and you'll find the posts. Have your dealer or you call Honda regional. Most folks have been reimbursed by Honda regional for most of the charges.
  • mccshaunmccshaun Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for your reply regarding the compressor. I am new to the forum and am not finding anything after searching for "compressor exploded." Any hints? Thanks again.
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    Would anyone share if it is easy enough to change the cabin air filter on a 2005 CR-V? Owners manual does not describe it, and I've been trying in vain to hunt down a 2004 CR-V Repair Manual at the local library. The online Maintenance schedule at the Honda Owner's Link suggests aside from replacing it at 30k, also cleaning it at 15K. Replacement at the dealer around $70.00, while the pair is $19 from H&A, so I'm willing to pay myself $50 if it's possible.
    Thank You
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,588
    Go to the top of this page... and do a search for just compressor...

    That brings up quite a few posts about it...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • wusterwuster Member Posts: 153
    On the first gen CR-V's the cabin air filter is behind the glove box. You have to remove it and a couple of cross beams to get to it.

    Takes about 45 mins or so (slightly longer in my case, cause I ended up with an extra screw. So I had to disassemble everything again to figure out where the extra screw came from. :blush: )

    I suspect the location of the filter housing for gen 2 is in the same place as gen 1.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I did it for the first time on an 04. First time takes about half hour, second time about 10 minutes. Would not spend 70 bucks.
  • mikel58mikel58 Member Posts: 3
    Hey there,

    My A/C compressor just exploded on Friday at the magical 50,000 mile mark as well.

    Seems as though the compressor, clutch, coil and dryer are all bad and need to be replaced and EVAC system needs to be recharged to the tune of $1300.00.

    When I told the dealership I would not have it repaired immediately, they quickly decided to call the Honda rep on my behalf tomorrow.

    We'll see what happens and I will report my findings. I am now armed with the knowledge I have gained here. Thanks for the posts.

    Other than this slight inconvenience in 98 degree Oklahoma dry/humid weather the car has performed almost as well as my 92 Accord.

    Until then....
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    When I told the dealership I would not have it repaired immediately, they quickly decided to call the Honda rep on my behalf tomorrow.

    It is your job to call Honda corporate, not the dealer's. It is in their interest not to have Honda get involved (they get paid less), it is in your interest to get Honda involved (you pay less).
  • mikel58mikel58 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the insight. I will say this however, the dealership called me today and Honda had offered to cover 75% of the cost. I balked at this and they are going to cover another $100.

    The Honda rep will be at the dealership tomorrow...Guess where I will be?
  • mccshaunmccshaun Member Posts: 3
    AFter my ac locked up and internally contaminating the system with metal debris, My quote was $2500.00 from the dealer to put in new compressor, clutch coil receiver, drier, and condenser plus flush and recharge. This seems like an enormous amount of money. Honda has offered to pay for parts, but labor will still cost me $600. Any other advice or comments??

    Shauna
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    AFter my ac locked up and internally contaminating the system with metal debris, My quote was $2500.00 from the dealer to put in new compressor, clutch coil receiver, drier, and condenser plus flush and recharge. This seems like an enormous amount of money. Honda has offered to pay for parts, but labor will still cost me $600. Any other advice or comments??

    Shauna

    Seems like 76% coverage is pretty good for a car 16,000 miles out of warranty. I don't know of any other manufacturer that even offers to pay partial repair bills after the warranty expired.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Thanks for the insight. I will say this however, the dealership called me today and Honda had offered to cover 75% of the cost. I balked at this and they are going to cover another $100.

    The Honda rep will be at the dealership tomorrow...Guess where I will be?

    That is pretty good. Usually dealerships say they will call, and never call and then tell you that Honda corporate rejected claim. They only get paid like $30/hour in labor and Invoice on parts if Honda is involved, and usually charge $80/hour for labor and MSRP for parts (2x of invoice)
  • therenfeldtherenfeld Member Posts: 3
    I am experiencing the same problems with my 2004 crv and would like to know if you have come up with a solve.
    Thank You
  • kjakja Member Posts: 3
    My 2005 CR-V has noisy (tapping) valves only when first starting up a WARM engine.The tapping lasts only a few seconds, and there is no abnormal noise when running. The ODD thing is that when I start a COLD engine, there is NO valve tapping at all! This seems to be just the opposite of what it should be?

    Could the lifters be "draining down" because the oil (5w-20) thins down too much when warm, but OK when cold?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    The device you are plugging into the Cig Lighter should not be blowing the fuse. Some poorly designed devices have a large transient current demand when first powering up. They almost look like a short circuit (a piece of wire) to the fuse for a very short period of time.

    Do not get a higher amp fuse. Get a new charger.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My 2005 CR-V has noisy (tapping) valves only when first starting up a WARM engine.The tapping lasts only a few seconds, and there is no abnormal noise when running. The ODD thing is that when I start a COLD engine, there is NO valve tapping at all! This seems to be just the opposite of what it should be?

    Could the lifters be "draining down" because the oil (5w-20) thins down too much when warm, but OK when cold?

    Check the oil level. When was the oil changed last time?
  • dragondaddragondad Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Honda CR-V, about one month ago, the coolant level check light start to be ON when I hit brake pad. Usually, the light will be off after I release the brake pad.
    The first time, I filled up the coolant tank, but it still has the same problem. Please give me some help if you know the solution.
    Thanks.

    David
  • lorelei2lorelei2 Member Posts: 8
    Is anyone else experiencing excessive tire wear on their original tires? I have a 2005 with 21,000 miles and have rotated my tires on a regular basis and am already faced with replacing my tires for excessive wear.

    Any input?
  • stevec10stevec10 Member Posts: 10
    My 2005 CRV does the same thing. I checked the oil level and it was fine. I use synthetic 5w20. I have 2800 miles and 4 months on last oil change. I'm going to stop in my dealership tomorrow and ask service dept about it.
  • kjakja Member Posts: 3
    OIl level is right on the mark. I change oil every 3000 miles.
    I have my doubts about 5w-20w oil being too thin in warm weather
  • leawoodieleawoodie Member Posts: 2
    Has anyone had their automatic head light turnoff sensor blow out..my has twice the first time it was under warentee does any one know how to fix it...yea, I had the a/c compressor blow out on mine..with 60000 mi. I hear they will blow out again has any one had thiers go out twice...how did Honda handle it.
  • therenfeldtherenfeld Member Posts: 3
    I agree with it should not so I had them replace the charger and the same results. I would never consider bigger than recommended fuse. Interesting is I have never used the outlet in the rear and checked it with my multimeter today and it has no power and the fuse is OK. My next approach is not to use the outlet for a while and see if it blows on its own. I have a 400w inverter which I will try after a few trips with no use.

    thank you for your response
  • mcndiayemcndiaye Member Posts: 2
    I have problem because my Honda CRV 200 car would not rev beyond 5000rpm and would not go over 80MPH. I have taken it every where, been told to chage MAP and O2 sensors which was done but still nothing.

    Could you plesase Help
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 2001 Honda CR-V, about one month ago, the coolant level check light start to be ON when I hit brake pad. Usually, the light will be off after I release the brake pad.
    The first time, I filled up the coolant tank, but it still has the same problem. Please give me some help if you know the solution.
    Thanks.

    David

    As far as I know, CR-V DOES NOT have low coolant level light. Are you sure you are not talking about "brake failure" light? It would also explain why the light comes on when you hit the brakes. If it is the brake light, then you are probably low on brake fluid. If the fluid has never been changed, it shoudl be changed ASAP! Its useful life is only 3 years.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My 2005 CRV does the same thing. I checked the oil level and it was fine. I use synthetic 5w20. I have 2800 miles and 4 months on last oil change. I'm going to stop in my dealership tomorrow and ask service dept about it.

    You should have waited until at least 3000 miles, preferrably 5000 miles to take the ORIGINAL BRAKE IN oil out of the CR-V. Honda says to do so in the OWNER's MANUAL, and they do it for a reason. The original oil is high in molybdenium, which aids in break in.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    OIl level is right on the mark. I change oil every 3000 miles.
    I have my doubts about 5w-20w oil being too thin in warm weather

    I run 0W-20 and don't have too many problems. Honda engines always have little tapping noise from the engine, that is their nature.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Has anyone had their automatic head light turnoff sensor blow out..my has twice the first time it was under warentee does any one know how to fix it...yea, I had the a/c compressor blow out on mine..with 60000 mi. I hear they will blow out again has any one had thiers go out twice...how did Honda handle it.

    Honda CR-V does not have automatic headlight shut off standard. Either you are not in the US, or you have an aftermarket one. In latter case, consult with the manufacturer of the unit.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have problem because my Honda CRV 200 car would not rev beyond 5000rpm and would not go over 80MPH. I have taken it every where, been told to chage MAP and O2 sensors which was done but still nothing.

    Could you plesase Help

    Man, Honda model of 200, we are talking about 1806 year old car. No wonder it is not running right.

    Anyway, if you have a 2002 or newer, check the oil level. Low oil level will send the car into "limp" mode. Which may set the fuel cut off at 5000 RPM. Even lower oil level will send the car into "aggressive limp" mode where the engine would not rev past 2500 RPM.

    This could also be a sign of VTEC solenoid failure. Improper oil weight, or low oil level will cause both symptoms. Use the recommended 5W-20 and you should be fine. 10W-40 is going to kill your VTEC.

    If it is 2001 or older, there is no VTEC, and you are probably low on oil, or the fuel filter is clogged, or the valves are too tight...
  • stevec10stevec10 Member Posts: 10
    My FIRST oil change was done just over 3000 miles, I was talking about my latest oil change.
  • sd3sd3 Member Posts: 1
    I am having the same wind sound problem problem What help? did you try the deflectors?
    SD3
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    I thought about this some. is the charger plugged in BEFORE you start the car? or do you plug the thing in when the car is running (or you have key already in ACC position) and it blows?

    I'm thinking it's possible the plug on the adapter is of a design that shorts out the two conductors in the socket unless it is perfectly aligned going in.

    If you have not tried this... plug in the adapter THEN try to start the car. If it doesn't blow, then the theory is the male plug isn't designed very well. As I said, I think you need to try a different (brand) adapter. However, if you can manage several starts without a problem with the adapter inserted first, just leave the adapter in the socket. You don't smoke do you? ;)
  • g_harcourtg_harcourt Member Posts: 1
    353,000 KM's and still going. Though it will have a date with a scrap yard in a year from now and be replaced by a Honda Pilot (most likely) would have gone the TrailBlazer route but after reading the reviews of it I changed my mind. CR-V has just developed rust (Canandian Climate), found very few things wrong with the vehicle other than the heat exhaust shield under the engine always comes lose and rattlesand the back gate (interior section) seems to come loses. All in all and very good SUV, I have P215/70/R15 tires on them not the P205/70/R15 they come with. Only complaint I have about the Honda product is the dealer seems to push replacement part ie. water pump @120,000KM I did mine at @279,000. :)
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    For us illiterate's in the US that don't know how to convert kilometers to miles, how many miles is 353000 KMs? Was your dealer pushing the water pump when you had the timing belt changed? If so, that's quite common and also a good idea.
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