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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I added two more outlets :D

    image
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    Just like in your home. The fuse is there to protect the electrical circuit from overloading. #1 make sure you are using the correct amperage fuse. #2 since you indicate that it seems intermit ant determine which of any of your plug in accessarys are making it blow. #3 if it blows on anything you plug into the outlet it would be safe to assume problem is in vehicle. At this point you will want to start tracing wiring back starting with the outlet itself (this is most commonly the culprit) you are looking for breaks in wires or any part of the wiring that may be touching bare metal, or any connection that may be loose causing excessive current draw. With a clear mind & attention to detail this should be an easy problem to find. Good luck!!! :)
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    You should write up a guide showing how you installed the power ports. People love seeing pictures of guys cutting into their dashboards with power tools. :shades:
  • hicrvguyhicrvguy Member Posts: 11
    Yes, you are right, the maintenance records should and would be a selling point for a used vehicle IF the dealer was the original seller or maintenence/service center, HOWEVER, as I posted, the car was originally sold in Georgia at Grainger Honda. The owner then moved to Hawaii and I bought it from a Toyota Dealer.

    According to the local Hawaii Honda Service Center, maintenance and service records are not recorded on a general Honda system that they have access to. Each service center and dealer keeps their own records that is NOT shared by VIN. Sounds like you mention this in your last sentence.

    If you have some type of other information or a link that says otherwise I would be very interested in trying or seeing that information.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    in my opinion, people blow fuses to their ACC sockets because there is too much wiggle room for insertion. at an angle, the front of the plug may make contact with the center and ring conductor of the female plug, causing a short, high current flow and the fuse to blow in protecting the circuit.

    folks, always alwaya always insert the plug to the device you want to power via the ACC socket BEFORE you start the car, after pushing the plug all the way in. that way, there is little to no chance of blowing the fuse because of mis-insertion.

    now, if the fuse still blows, this suggests to me either a circuit wiring / short issue in the wiring to the ACC socket or the ACC socket itself, or more likely a poorly designed power supply cord to the device you are powering.

    in conclusion, DON'T insert a plug into the ACC socket when the vehicle is running.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I can see your situation. From the dealer's position, if they are not the ones making the sale they are not obligated to give out any information. I have heard instances where dealers do not share service information with other dealers, even within a brand. I tried a Google search for "vehicle service records" and found a few sites such as carfax.com or dmv.org which offer the service. Do not know about privacy issues with those sites or what you'd be getting into. Another avenue would be to try going through Honda Corporate? They seem to be more concerned with warranty issues though.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "HOWEVER, as I posted, the car was originally sold in Georgia at Grainger Honda. The owner then moved to Hawaii and I bought it from a Toyota Dealer."

    Try writing to Granger in GA, providing the VIN and explaining that you want only the maintenance history, without any owner information. See what they do; it really depends on the dealer...
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "folks, always alwaya always insert the plug to the device you want to power via the ACC socket BEFORE you start the car, after pushing the plug all the way in. that way, there is little to no chance of blowing the fuse because of mis-insertion."

    You are of course assuming that the plug is not hot wired to some kind of direct circuit, but rather goes through the electrical system that is powered up by the vehicle key.
  • hicrvguyhicrvguy Member Posts: 11
    Yep, I already put in a email and a written letter plus a follow up telephone call. I was put to the service manager who informed me that he would inform the corporate office of my request and said to cross my fingers. I was just trying to see if anyone else had info on this. It would seem that it would make sense IF Honda mandated a VIN based system that would track all the maintenance and service records of the vehicles just to make sure of proper servicing of Hondas to lower future costs. Well, I'll just continue to cross my fingers and hope something comes in the mail. Thanks to all. Aloha.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    You should write up a guide showing how you installed the power ports. People love seeing pictures of guys cutting into their dashboards with power tools.

    I did write a step by step instructional with pictures, but it is on hondaSUV.com and I am not allowed to link it on here.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    " I did write a step by step instructional with pictures, but it is on *****.com and I am not allowed to link it on here. "

    Can't you just re-post it here, or does that cause problems with the "other site"?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    There's probably copyright issues - better if we just make him start all over and drill a few new holes in the dash. :D
  • capiaccapiac Member Posts: 1
    My 02 CRV just started doing it too. Any luck figuring it out?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    yes, yes i am assuming that because... you should never ever ever defeat the built-in protection of the power-on circuit of the ACC socket through "hot wiring".
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "yes, yes i am assuming that because... you should never ever ever defeat the built-in protection of the power-on circuit of the ACC socket through "hot wiring"."

    Hmmm, hot wire to the battery (with in-line fuse, of course), anyone?
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    steve - yeah that would probably be preferrable than converting the socket for a function it wasn't intended to perform. or you could consider using a take-off from the fuse block for a circuit that isn't present. of course the circuit which is added needs fusing either at the block or in-line.

    i really believe though people are blowing fuses to the ACC ckt because of either poorly designed male plugs, or insertion of those plugs at a gross angle causing a momentary short.
  • hicrvguyhicrvguy Member Posts: 11
    When I went to check my mail today, I received a very stuffed envelope from Grainger Honda, Georgia with the service and maintence records on the vehicle by the VIN. Much mahalos to everyone here. I am sending them back, two or three calenders and some macadamia nuts as a thanks you.

    Aloha
  • eforce2eforce2 Member Posts: 13
    I renew the spark plug wire, spark plug but when I open the cap to change the rotor I can't pull the rotor out to change it. I'm not really sure if I can really just pull it like the other cars rotor but I don't want to force it because I might break something. Anybody know the right way to pull or change the rotor?
  • eforce2eforce2 Member Posts: 13
    Yes, I hate that grade logic. Sometimes I think it has enough power to shift to lower gear but it doesn't. I think it's a waste of gas to have this grade logic.Even going downhill... while everyone is braking I'm still pushing my gas.
  • eforce2eforce2 Member Posts: 13
    Are you going uphill? It's a grade logic thing in the transmission.
  • eforce2eforce2 Member Posts: 13
    Have them check if they align both camshaft to the marker when they put the new timing belt.
  • eforce2eforce2 Member Posts: 13
    I have the EX model and it comes with BF Goodrich COMP TA and I think it's awesome.
  • eforce2eforce2 Member Posts: 13
    It feels like it's stuck in the lower gear right and does not want to shift down right? 1998 model has grade logic transmission. If you want the V to do this less you can do something in the horse power like changing the air filter to K$N filter and treat the engine with Slick50 every 30K miles. Good luck!
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Can't you just re-post it here, or does that cause problems with the "other site"?

    It won't cause problems, I am the owner of the copyright, if it comes to that. But it is double work for me.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    " It won't cause problems, I am the owner of the copyright, if it comes to that. But it is double work for me."

    Cut and paste, the modern wonder... :surprise:
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Cut and paste, the modern wonder...

    Not as easy to do as said. Edmunds uses true HTML tags while HondaSUV uses modified HTML "[" and "]" which I guess I could change...
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "Not as easy to do as said. Edmunds uses true HTML tags while HondaSUV uses modified HTML "[" and "]" which I guess I could change.."

    I don't think that is HTML, I believe that is a special scripting language used by the blogging program.
  • shaggieshaggie Member Posts: 2
    thanks for the tip... checked out almost everything I can think of. The horn works just fine. this is a honda installed alarm... when I attempt to arm it the horn does not sound anymore and the led which was installed on top of the steering column is also not blinking. thanks for the pdf to help troubleshoot it... i've checked fuses and whatnot and came up with nothing. going to try to tinker around and see if I can find anything else out before I suck it up and bring it in to honda. i think maybe the alarm is dead... what did you mean by the relay?

    Thanks!
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "The horn works just fine. this is a honda installed alarm... when I attempt to arm it the horn does not sound anymore and the led which was installed on top of the steering column is also not blinking."

    That sounds like an aftermarket alarm installed by the dealer. Take it in.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    there was a special relay i think in the .pdf i pointed you too.

    you know another possibility, is perhaps the alarm system isn't sensing all the switches that it is monitoring are closed.

    assuming you don't have a door or trunk light on the dash illuminated, i'd check out the sensor for the hood.

    i'm sorry, i'm just guessing now.
  • esteezeesteeze Member Posts: 102
    This part had to be replaced in my 03 CRV about 18 months ago. I was very lucky, as I just fell under the original 3yr/36k warranty (having 35K miles at the time).

    Reading this thread, it seems like this part has failed in many people's CR-V's (or, at least, is a commonly replaced part when the "check engine" light comes on).
  • crvusercrvuser Member Posts: 1
    I have just replaced the rotor for my 99' CRV. The rotor is retained by a philip head screw. When the rotor blade, the round metal part, point towards the front of the car, you will see the screw from the plastic cap opening which the screw head is pointing to the cabin. The way to make the rotor blade towards the front is to start your car and watch the rotor spining and stop the car, with the rotor cap unhooked. You might need a helper to watch the rotor. You have 1/4 chance to get the rotor blade in right position. Eventually you will get it. Unscrew the screw and simply pull the rotor out. Goodluck!
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
  • steve_canysteve_cany Member Posts: 1
    I noticed wind noise kicking in at 60mph +/- right away. Driver's side appeared much noisier than the passenger side. Brought it in to the dealer a few days ago. They acknowledged the wind noise, said they adjusted the seal, but their efforts were ineffective. Still have the same noise.

    - Do other CR-V owners notice excessive wind noise at highway speeds?
    - Has anyone found a dealer that actually corrected this?
    - Has anyone fixed this themselves?

    I appreciate any feedback.

    Thanks,
    Steve

    2007 Honda CR-V EX-L AWD
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    changing the air filter to K$N filter and treat the engine with Slick50 every 30K miles

    K&N allows more particulates in than stock Honda filter = shorter engine life.

    If Slick50 uses Teflon as main ingridient, then it is all settling down in some oil passage, and will eventually lead to oil starvation.
  • anieves1anieves1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 CR-V that has recently started vibrating at idle. I have taken it to the dealer and they have centered the engine mounts and checked the engine with no positive results. The service manager agrees that it's vibrating more than usual, but has done everything he can. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what was the fix? Thanks for your help.
  • eforce2eforce2 Member Posts: 13
    If you want to stay with stock stay on it... just look what the Honda Race Team use. Is it stock?? If they do they can't race. Good Luck! I never have problem with my CRV with K&N and Slick 50 in fact it perform better.
  • clubguyclubguy Member Posts: 15
    Don't know what excessive is but our '07 is noisy at highway speeds(so was our "04 Odyssey)at least more road noise than a '97 Town&Country....."Consumer Reports" reported "excessive road noise"..
  • plim77plim77 Member Posts: 46
    I had the same problem. I owned a 2005 Honda CR-V EX. The rough idle got so bad around 24,000 miles that if I had a bottle of water in the cup holder, it came close to shaking right out. It was really bad in the steering wheel- I'd feel my hands shaking even after I got out of the car. Unfortunately, this problem seems to occur in other 4 cylinder imports as well. I had a 2001 Accord EX that I traded for the CR-V. I had a similar experience- but not as severe. For both times, the dealer said that is was the nature of the car. When I complained about the Accord, the service manager had me sit in someone else's car just to show that other Hondas do the same. They said it has something to do with American mix fuel in a Japanese car. (I don't know if there was any truth to it or not.)

    The solution: I traded my CR-V for a Subaru Outback (LL Bean edition). I LOVE IT. I miss the shape and interior design of the CR-V, but not the rough idle or having to change the differential fluid at 22k. I will never buy another 4 cylinder Honda again. From what I hear, the V6 Hondas don't seem to have the rough idle problem.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "I will never buy another 4 cylinder Honda again. From what I hear, the V6 Hondas don't seem to have the rough idle problem."

    Something was wrong with that individual CR-V. Not sure what it was, my 2003 CR-V went to 45K before I traded it, and the idle was fine.

    My father in law has a Gen 1 at 70K with fine idle.
  • kay1864kay1864 Member Posts: 21
    Do you have steering wheel audio controls on a 2006 or earlier model? I know the middle button switches to the next preset on the radio, but what does it do if you're on CD? Does it advance to the next track?

    Reason I ask is, I'm thinking of adding the controls, and I'd like to know what it will do when CD is on. My 2004 LX doesn't even have this in the manual, since it wasn't an option then.

    Thanks!

    (I'd post this in the 2006 forum, but it doesn't look like that forum is very active nowadays... :( )
  • saskatchewansaskatchewan Member Posts: 1
    Hi

    There is a buzzer that will not stop unluss I turn on my headlights on my 2002 CRV. This is a big pain since sometimes I forget to turn off my headlights when I turn off the vehicle. Is there anyway to turn off this buzzer or perhaps get it to do something useful like sound when I have left my headlights on?

    Thanks
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "There is a buzzer that will not stop unluss I turn on my headlights on my 2002 CRV. This is a big pain since sometimes I forget to turn off my headlights when I turn off the vehicle. Is there anyway to turn off this buzzer or perhaps get it to do something useful like sound when I have left my headlights on?"

    It sounds like the relay that turns on the buzzer for the "lights on, engine off" buzzer is broken. Have the dealer fix the problem...
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The solution: I traded my CR-V for a Subaru Outback (LL Bean edition). I LOVE IT. I miss the shape and interior design of the CR-V, but not the rough idle or having to change the differential fluid at 22k. I will never buy another 4 cylinder Honda again. From what I hear, the V6 Hondas don't seem to have the rough idle problem.

    The main reason I wouldn't get a Subaru is the engine vibrations transmitted through the shifter and the steering wheel. I think LL Bean uses H6, but it is still the boxer engine design, if I am correct, which is inherently shakier.

    By the way, V6 Honda engine and automatic transmission should not be put in the same sentnce.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    If you want to stay with stock stay on it... just look what the Honda Race Team use. Is it stock?? If they do they can't race. Good Luck! I never have problem with my CRV with K&N and Slick 50 in fact it perform better.

    Do you have any dyno charts to substantiate that "it perform better"

    How many miles have you been driving with this combination?

    How many miles are you expecting to drive this car?

    Honda race teams also rebuild their engines after each race, do you?
  • m1042m1042 Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2002 CRV. A few weeks ago the Check Engine light went on, no noticible problem. I went to Auto Zone and it was the Throttle Body that no one carries. Very expensive. I investigated further by going to a mechanic who subscribes to ALLDATA. There is a Technical Service Bulletin dated May 6, 2005 supersedes the March 30, 2004 bulletin. Quote: "The throttle position sensor in certain throttle bodies becomes contaminated due to a manufacturing defect". Honda? What's Up????
  • joekinsojoekinso Member Posts: 14
    I had the same problem. Check to see if both of your "running lights" are on without the lights turned on. Most likely one is out. Is the "DRL" light on the dash illuminated? If so, the "running light" relay is toast. If the buzzing is coming from under the dash near your left foot, it is most likely the problem. I changed mine myself but it wasn't easy. The panel under the dash near the steering column is removed by turning the toggles. There are two relays mounted on a bracket that look like little black boxes. I dropped the bracket and then removed the box marked "running light relay" and replaced it with a new one from the dealer. About $110.00 Cdn. I think. If you can stand on your head and don't wear bifocals it's not too hard to do. Good luck!
  • damhondadamhonda Member Posts: 1
    Can anyone give me some advice.

    I had a CR-V diesel one year ago and was told that Honda had no service books but one would be sent to me, which i never recieved, when i asked when does it need a service the delivery driver told me 20k miles. it's no done 19.5k miles and developed an engine rattle, i took it to my local Honda dealer and have been told it needs a new engine because it's run out of oil, no oil warning light was displayed in the car but Honda say there is enough oil in the sump to stop that happening but not enough to stop the engine being broken. I've been told by Honda that i must now pay £8500 for a new engine.
    Any advice would be gratful. Dave
  • mnfmnf Member Posts: 405
    Next Song..

    MNF
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Can anyone give me some advice.

    I had a CR-V diesel one year ago and was told that Honda had no service books but one would be sent to me, which i never recieved, when i asked when does it need a service the delivery driver told me 20k miles. it's no done 19.5k miles and developed an engine rattle, i took it to my local Honda dealer and have been told it needs a new engine because it's run out of oil, no oil warning light was displayed in the car but Honda say there is enough oil in the sump to stop that happening but not enough to stop the engine being broken. I've been told by Honda that i must now pay £8500 for a new engine.
    Any advice would be gratful. Dave


    Did you drive it for 19,500 miles without changing oil?

    How often did you check the oil level with the dipstick?

    Did you perform any other maintenance on the CR-V in the last 19,500 miles?
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