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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • bpamplinbpamplin Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2007 Honda CRV, How do you install the front license plate?
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Member Posts: 196
    Are you serious?
    Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free.
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    Dan,
    That truly is an odd one... That you would get the vibration feel only on the first run up to 70mph. Did you check real good around the axle shafts. Possibly part of the truck tire casing has wrapped around one of them. Each axle has a rubber "vibration damper": donut & due to the slight angle downward towards the wheel a piece of this casing may be caught or hung up on it... As you speed up to 70mph it may be enough to throw the axle out of balance, subsequently as you slow down the spinning of the axle may cause it to move thus you don't feel it on second run up... After you have stopped/parked it may slip down again. Just a shot in the dark my friend. Good luck with this puzzle :)
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    that's a good guess.

    i remember a friend driving through some mud once with one wheel when parking at a campsite in the woods. when he took off the next day, he experienced high-vibration at speed. turns out some mud hardened on the inside of the rim throwing off the balance of that tire.

    a good spray with a water hose to remove the caked mud put everything right.

    related story, but not about vibration: my wife not long ago ran over some road debris in our ODY van and didn't tell me. i drove the car and noted creaking comming from the rear of the vehicle. for a few days, i thought maybe a rear strut was loose. finally i get fed up, and drive the vehicle's passenger side up onto the curb so i can scoot myself under the rear of the car more easily. lo-and-behold i find an iron water shut-off pole (these things are like 4feet long) wedged up into the rear spring. it had to be placed on a hydraulic lift to unload the spring so we could get the pole out.

    wow, i couldn't believe our luck. no damage to the ABS / brake lines, cat convertor, muffler, and no puncture to the fuel tank.

    hopefully, the poster can get this solved easily and inexpensively.
  • crvme3crvme3 Member Posts: 140
    Good road hazzard story... Years back was driving through Death Valley Calif. on a small 1 lane service road just checking out the sites, rounded a corner to find a wild Mule just standing in the roadway, I had to stop fairly short to avoid hitting him & the dam thing would not move... After about a 10 min stare down (mule & I) & not really sure what was on his mind, I did what any red blooded American would do- I honked the horn!... "BIG MISTAKE" my friend the Mule proceeded to kick the living you know what out of the front of my car. Luckily he did not do any mechanical damage (A/C condenser, radiator etc.) But before he was done he destroyed my grille hood & 1 headlite. You can only guess what the frame of my mind was like the remainder of that road trip. :mad:
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "Are you serious?
    Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free."

    Some states do not require the front license plate, so the frame for the front is not included in delivery. The dealer should be able to provide the frame.
  • boqibamaboqibama Member Posts: 25
    Need your help. Recently the crack noise came out on my 06 crv from the passenger rear side. It only happens when the car makes the first take off with more than 3 passengers inside. The dealer changed the rear suspension, the noise disappeared and back again after 3 weeks. They have no idea now. Did anybody experience this before? I am a bit mad that it happens on a 1 year old car. Thank you in advance.
  • erinleigh101erinleigh101 Member Posts: 3
    Good morning - I have a 2002 CRV and a few months ago I started having issues with my keyless remote. It will lock and unlock all of the doors except the driver side and will only unlock the other doors after two pushes on the button. I changed the battery in the remote and nothing changed....So -- I've been using the key to open and lock the driver side door. Now - I am starting to have difficulties in getting the key INTO the door lock - it sticks and I have to take it out and do it again - sometimes three or four times before it slides in and allows me to lock or unlock the driver side door. Any thoughts?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,724
    It sounds like the problem is with your driver's side door lock, not the remote. Maybe some screws lose, and the lock cylinder has shifted?

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  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    and will only unlock the other doors after two pushes on the button.

    And the OWNER's MANUAL says that you need to press the "unlock" button twice to unlock other doors. First press unlocks the driver's door, and second press unlocks the rest.

    Sounds like your problem is not with the remote but with the driver's door lock. It is either dirty, or corroded.

    Check if the solenoid and actuator work when pressing the "lock" or "unlock" buttons on the remote or the button inside the vehicle. Chances are your driver's door will not work when the button inside is pressed.

    If you hear the noise, but nothing happens, remove the door skin and see if the linkages are still intact.

    Most likely culprit is the solenoid, and needs to be replaced.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    That's exactly how mine started out with my 99 CRV, eventually it got worse and the remote or even the auto door locks wouldn't unlock the driver's side door at all. I have to manually pull the stupid thing up to unlock the door or from the outside use the key. The problem is with the insides of the door handle itself and the estimate was about $500. I never got it fixed and stopped using the remote all together.
  • schaefercrewschaefercrew Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 CR-V and also experience stalling problems. On my daily commute, it does not matter weather I am going 5 or 70 mph, 3-5 times a day the car completely dies..no lights, radio, or dashboard controls. For the most part I am able to restart by putting the care in neutral, but the problem is worsening, stalling 10 or more times a day. In addition, the car is beginning to show problems restarting. This is the 2nd posting I have seen about the CRV's stalling problem. The other posting stated the same problem and that it could be a rotor issue?? I have had a complete tune-up and the fuel injector clean with no change. I will talk to a mechanic about the rotor and ignition coil as possible culprits.
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    if the car completely dies, and you have no dash indication, i'm thinking ignition switch issue, or battery cable issue.

    i suppose another possibility is a fuel relay or pump, but if either was at root cause, i'm thinking the alternator light and SRS and oil light ect would illuminate.

    because just about everything seems dead, it's almost like turning off the ignition right?

    so my first inclination: worn ignition switch or faulty wiring to same. and the more you use it, the more it's likely to get worse.

    look here *at the bottom*. hmmm, maybe its a recall item! :D
    http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?p_make=HON&h_make=HON&p_model= 142
  • shifting2shifting2 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2004 cr-v that tends to rev with foot off accelerator especially between 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th.
    At times it will rev up to 2,400 rpm between reverse and 1st before the clutch engages. Any thoughts?
    I had asked about this once before and thought it was getting better but I was just compensating by leaving the clutch engaged longer.
    Worse when cold.
    Any association with ETC that some of you have written about?
    Thanks for any insights.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 2004 cr-v that tends to rev with foot off accelerator especially between 1st to 2nd and 3rd to 4th.
    At times it will rev up to 2,400 rpm between reverse and 1st before the clutch engages. Any thoughts?
    I had asked about this once before and thought it was getting better but I was just compensating by leaving the clutch engaged longer.
    Worse when cold.
    Any association with ETC that some of you have written about?
    Thanks for any insights.

    So, let's say you are in 1st, preparing to shift into 2nd, you ease off the accelerator, press the clutch, shift into 2nd, and as you start to release the clutch, the engine revs to 2,400 RPM? At what RPM were you prior to shifting?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 1997 CR-V and also experience stalling problems. On my daily commute, it does not matter weather I am going 5 or 70 mph, 3-5 times a day the car completely dies..no lights, radio, or dashboard controls. For the most part I am able to restart by putting the care in neutral, but the problem is worsening, stalling 10 or more times a day. In addition, the car is beginning to show problems restarting. This is the 2nd posting I have seen about the CRV's stalling problem. The other posting stated the same problem and that it could be a rotor issue?? I have had a complete tune-up and the fuel injector clean with no change. I will talk to a mechanic about the rotor and ignition coil as possible culprits.

    Register your VIN number at Honda's owner's link and see if the FREE Ignition switch recall has been performed.
  • rrbhokiesrrbhokies Member Posts: 108
    My 07 cargo shelf on my EX-L rattles. I've checked and everything is latched. However, where the shelf pins clip into the body of the car, there is some wiggle room on a few and when metal hits metal, you get a rattle.

    I haven't done anything yet, but my workaround will probably be to put some tissue or something around the pins to make them fit more snuggly so they won't rattle.

    Has anyone else been experiencing this problem? What have been your workarounds, if any?
  • carol19carol19 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks. The steering wheel was shaking violently when I braked. The last time I had 2 different opinions - the dealer said that I didn't need anything done; the company that changed by tires said I did. I asked the dealer if something else was causing this to happen they said no but I'm wondering about the calipers. I had to replace the heat shield because it was rusted out.
  • shifting2shifting2 Member Posts: 7
    I just tried it and 1st to 1,800.
    Clutch depressed with rpm to 2,400.
    Engaged 2nd with rpm to 2,000.
    Made sure foot off the accelerator between gears.
    I have discovered that if I wind it up about 800 rpm more than usual in each gear before shifting, the effect is much less pronounced.(this matches the rpm for each gear in my accord auto.).
    Thanks for the response.Either I am getting old and picky or throttle responses have changed since our '89 accord manual.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I just tried it and 1st to 1,800.
    Clutch depressed with rpm to 2,400.
    Engaged 2nd with rpm to 2,000.
    Made sure foot off the accelerator between gears.
    I have discovered that if I wind it up about 800 rpm more than usual in each gear before shifting, the effect is much less pronounced.(this matches the rpm for each gear in my accord auto.).
    Thanks for the response.Either I am getting old and picky or throttle responses have changed since our '89 accord manual.

    You are shifting too low. Try shifting at around 2500 RPM for low RPM shifts, and around 6800 RPM for "spirited driving".

    I think what is happenning is that you press the accelerator to get the car moving, but because the RPM's are so low, when you shift there is residual air/fuel mixture in the manifold that has not been burned off. When you release the clutch the residual mixture causes the engine to rev up.

    I assume the revs don't stay up, and come down to idle after a little while.
  • shifting2shifting2 Member Posts: 7
    You are right.
    If I run the rpm higher the effect tends to disappear.
    I was trying for better fuel efficiency.
    Didn't realize that the crv could be in the category of "spirited driving".
    Don't think I've been over 4000 rpm since my '69 MGB.
    Thanks for the info.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Have you had the battery tested? I had similar symptoms when the battery died. The battery light did not come on to tell me it was going. When I jumpstarted, the low fuel light came on with a full tank and the radio lost its settings. Engine still ran but the gauges were erratic.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    You are right.
    If I run the rpm higher the effect tends to disappear.
    I was trying for better fuel efficiency.
    Didn't realize that the crv could be in the category of "spirited driving".
    Don't think I've been over 4000 rpm since my '69 MGB.
    Thanks for the info

    If you shift just below 2500 RPM you will achieve the same. The engine operates in 12 valve mode in low RPM's. Then switches to 16 valve mode.

    Try winding it up past 5000 RPM, she is a beast!!!! People who drive automatic have no clue what they are missing!!!!
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,724
    If I floor it, my automatic goes right up to the redline, before shifting...

    Although I prefer a manual, any automatic owner can experience the rush... they just have to put their foot on the floor...

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  • juliajulia Member Posts: 74
    Hi, all
    I have 2004 CR-V EX with mileage at 21609. The CR-V does not have any problem (except the seat is not very comfortable and I need to put a pillow for my low back and low mile of about 18mpg driving in city). The 3 year factory warranty is going to expire in Aug. 07.
    I got a quote of about $2150 for Easycare TOALCARE by APCO package for additional 5 year/100,000mile. It has $100 deductible per visit. I would like to know whether any one bought this kind of extended warranty before. How is their service in terms of keep their service contract? Would this quote expensive? Does it make sense to buy this kind of service contact (extended warranty (I may drive another 40K miles in additional 5 years. It will be only about 61K by end of 8 year when the contract ends)? What are the most possible repair problems on 2004 CR-V? Any one experience major on 2004 CR-V? Any input is welcome. Thanks.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "I got a quote of about $2150 for Easycare TOALCARE by APCO package for additional 5 year/100,000mile."

    Don't do it. Buy the Hondacare package, which can be found at reasonable prices on the Internet. I paid around $950 for a 7 year 100K warranty for my 2003, with zero deductable.

    But the real reason is that the Hondacare warranties are fulfilled by the dealer and there is not hassle at all with using them. There have been reports of problems with 3rd party warranties.
  • juliajulia Member Posts: 74
    Hi, Thank you for your post. Would you bought warranty at your car purchase or you got it later? Where did you get your Hondacare package for 7 year 100K warranty?

    Thank you
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check out the Honda Extended Warranties Pricing and Info discussion too.
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "Hi, Thank you for your post. Would you bought warranty at your car purchase or you got it later? Where did you get your Hondacare package for 7 year 100K warranty?"

    I bought it at purchase. The dealer wanted some outrageous price, and I showed him the prices available on the Internet, which they matched.

    I just looked at some web pricing, and it appears that you may be limited to 6 years / 84K. This was at a cost of $1020 and zero deductable.

    The same site listed 12 - 48 month options, I suppose for those REALLY low mileage CR-Vs. These plans were at $100 deductible and ranged from $480 - $900.

    I suggest you read the Edmunds thread on this topic. In any case you need to act soon - you have to get the warranty before 3 years expires!

    I hesitate to provide the URL because I don't know the site - I was just checking some random pricing.
  • juliajulia Member Posts: 74
    stevedebi and steve

    Thank you very much
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I got a quote of about $2150 for Easycare TOALCARE by APCO package for additional 5 year/100,000mile. It has $100 deductible per visit

    Why would you spend $2000 on something that you MAY use. So far, your Honda has proved to you that you did not need the warranty.

    If you keep maintaining your CR-V there is a very good chance that you will not neeed to use the warranty.

    If you do insist on getting an extended warranty, get Honda Care and nothing else.
  • kay_jaykay_jay Member Posts: 33
    I bought the new CRV 2007 in October. All these 10 months I had driven 7300 miles. I earlier went for an oil change when I had 2500 miles. Eventhough I had driven just 7300 miles, it is more than 10 months since I purchased my CRV and did no maintenance to my CRV.
    My dealer sents out a quarterly leaflet about deals they are running for the maintenance. It has the minor (7500 miles/6 months), intermediate (12 months or 15000 miles) and major (24 months/30,000 miles) maintenance. Which should I go for - Minor or Intermediate (since it is almost 10 months)?
    My CRV computer display doesn't show anything on the maintenance minder. Should I wait for any maintenance minder?
  • gwingeegwingee Member Posts: 54
    I have had my 07 CRV since Oct 29th and just got my oil changed and still did not need to but we are going on a trip. Hav eyou had any problems with yours? I have been in the shop 12 times now...first several times for the tire pressure monitor, then several times for a starter problem....then the passenber airbag ..several times..now again the starter is acting up. I really wish I had gotten another Toyota..this is my first Honda..and I hate it..Honda will NOT give me a new vehicle...they just TRY to fix it...and give me rentals...they still do not KNOW what the problem is.
  • mikefm58mikefm58 Member Posts: 2,882
    Have you checked what the dealer is going to do at each interval and compared it to what's listed in your owner's manual? I'd bet the dealer is doing a whole more maintenance than is necessary.

    Go by what your owner's manual says, not the dealer.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Member Posts: 196
    Why did you go for an oil change at 2500 miles?
    Follow the maintenance minder and don't forget to reset it.
    The dealer will always come up with some recommended service especially during slow times in order to boost his profit margin.
    Remember this service is not required by Honda.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have had my 07 CRV since Oct 29th and just got my oil changed and still did not need to but we are going on a trip. Hav eyou had any problems with yours? I have been in the shop 12 times now...first several times for the tire pressure monitor, then several times for a starter problem....then the passenber airbag ..several times..now again the starter is acting up. I really wish I had gotten another Toyota..this is my first Honda..and I hate it..Honda will NOT give me a new vehicle...they just TRY to fix it...and give me rentals...they still do not KNOW what the problem is.

    Have you tried Lemon Law?
  • kay_jaykay_jay Member Posts: 33
    I have had my 07 CRV since Oct 29th and just got my oil changed and still did not need to but we are going on a trip. Hav eyou had any problems with yours? I have been in the shop 12 times now...first several times for the tire pressure monitor, then several times for a starter problem....then the passenber airbag ..several times..now again the starter is acting up. I really wish I had gotten another Toyota..this is my first Honda..and I hate it..Honda will NOT give me a new vehicle...they just TRY to fix it...and give me rentals...they still do not KNOW what the problem is.

    I am sorry for your car, but so far, I didn't have any problem with my CRV, thank god. I had driven 2500 miles in just 2 months when I was commuting to my work place. Now I have a job closer and I dont use much of my CRV. One thing which was so weird is that: I noticed a peculiar sound when I get down from car while in the gas station or any other place when the engine is on, it makes a weird sound, as if someone is accelerating. Apart from that, it has been so good.
  • kay_jaykay_jay Member Posts: 33
    Go by what your owner's manual says, not the dealer.

    Thanks for the tip.
  • kay_jaykay_jay Member Posts: 33
    Why did you go for an oil change at 2500 miles?
    Follow the maintenance minder and don't forget to reset it.
    The dealer will always come up with some recommended service especially during slow times in order to boost his profit margin.
    Remember this service is not required by Honda.

    How do I reset the maintenance minder?
  • juliajulia Member Posts: 74
    Hi, Blueiedgod

    Thank you very much for your post. I think you are right. I think it over. The reason I buy Honda is due to its reputation of reliability. Anyway, I may only hold the car for a couple years before get another new one. So I will not buy extended warranty and take a chance. Hope this CRV like my Toyota car which I did not spend money for repair except one battery, 4 tires, and one set of brake disc at more than 90K miles before it was total damaged at a parking lot by a crazy guy.
  • fnamowiczfnamowicz Member Posts: 196
    It's in the owners manual page 260.
  • mercemerce Member Posts: 1
    howdy, i have an 04 crv that groans when turned all the way and a dealer told me that maybe it is the rear differential fluid deteriorating, but this doesnt sound right to me. did you get your problem resolved? any suggestions for me. thank you, marc
  • user777user777 Member Posts: 3,341
    very likely, the dealer is correct. i believe there is a TSB on this TSB# 06012004.(NHTSA ID #10014127, MAY 16 2004)
  • cdamechcdamech Member Posts: 31
    Yes, the Rear Differential was flushed 3 times by the dealer. They seem to know about this. Upon further investigation, what I found out is that Honda CRV 4 Wheel drive system has a HYDRAULIC linkage system and when the rear differential fluid is contaminated, the Hydraulic linkage does not work properply and causes improper functions which include vibrations through out the whole system. Most notibly when you make right or left turns with the wheels all the way turned during sharp turns.
    Mine came up at 23,000 Km when the manual stated 90,000 Km on my Honda 2006 CRV. Apparently the rear differential has breather hole that allow contaminants in early. So I will continue to replace every 25,000 Km. It was covered under the Drive Train warranty. The Dealer will take care of you if you ask for a courtesy warranty. Good Luck.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    I had some lack of power with my automatic over the weekend. I had a full load of passengers and cargo. I had to stand on the accelerator to maintain highway speeds uphill. The RPMs would not go past 4,000. Could I have gotten a bad tank of gas or is this normal under a load?
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,724
    I wonder why the transmission didn't down-shift? That sounds more like a transmission issue. It is possible to get to a point where the load exceeds the capability of the vehicle to accelerate, but not at 4K RPM.. you should get a down-shift.

    Unless of course, you are going 85 mph, and the downshift would put you over the redline in a lower gear.. Sounds like that may be what happened?

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  • kay_jaykay_jay Member Posts: 33
    Go by what your owner's manual says, not the dealer.

    Thanks for the tip.

    Somehow I lost the honda crv 2007 maintainence log book. Is there any way, I can purchase a new log book? what will be the cost? Also, if you can help, can you please let me know when do I need to go for 2nd maintainence. I already have 8000 miles.
    Thanks for your help.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Actually I was only going about 63 mph. It felt as if it had already downshifted and would not go past 4,000 RPM to keep up speed. Grade logic kicking in? :confuse:
  • hammer7hammer7 Member Posts: 2
    I posted a similar message before.My 2003 CRV is burning 1 and 1/2 quarts of oil in about 800 miles.After an oil change and 800 miles of normal driving the oil is dark grayish black and down 1-1/2 quarts.The vehicle has 48000 miles on it.The Honda dealership where I purchased this vehicle and seven other vehicles say that this is perfectly normal.With the initial purchase I purchased an extended warranty for 7 years or 100,000 miles from the dealership for $1400.This vendor has since went bankrupt but the dealership has stated that they will honor the warranty on a case by case basis.It seems that they recognize a serious expensive problem and choose to ignore it.The national Honda help line has concurred with the dealership in stating that the oil consumption is normal.My son is an attorney and advises that I should get the problem independently diagnosed and repaired pay for the repairs myself and then sue the dealership in small-claims court to recover my expenditures.Any thoughts on the cause of the oil consumption or the suggested approach to recover my outlay.As an additional statement I have not burned one drop of oil in my seven previous Hondas.
  • kiawahkiawah Member Posts: 3,666
    Just trade it in at that dealership, and buy a new vehicle. If they give you average tradein value, you're out from underneath that problem. If they give you less, they are acknowledging that there is a problem with it.....and they should fix it under the extended warranty so they can then accept it at average tradein.

    If it's down that much oil, and it's not dripping on your garage, then it's being burnt up and coming out your tailpipe. It's only going to get worse. Once it starts visibly smoking, you'll have a much tougher time selling it.

    Get rid of it while you can, cut any losses and move on. Lemons happen.
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