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Comments
itself. Whew!!
Are the 2 crush washers for the differential fluid drain and fill the same as the ones for the oil drain?
Thanks.
The removal is no different that any other Double Camshaft engine.
It begs the question though, are you over 105,000 miles? The OEM plugs are rated to 105,000 miles. You should only replace them with HGK or Denso of the same rating. The "Super duper, trick this and trick that" plugs will make your CR-V run poorly.
There is the ODOMETER knob/button on your front display panel that you can set TRIP A/TRIP B/ODOMETER TOTAL by clicking it once. You can reset TRIP A and TRIP B to "0" by holding it down for 3 seconds.
For resetting Maintenance settings you need to HOLD THIS knob/button down for 30 Seconds or more. I hold it down and COUNT 60 seconds.
That will reset the Maintenace settings.
I won't be doing it myself, but would like to understand the process.
I want the firing of the spark plug to occur when the piston is at the top of the cylinder.
How can I get the timing adjusted to make this happen?
Regards
Joe
My oil life says 90%, but i already put 2.2k miles on the car.. at this rate im not going to change the oil until i hit 10k. does that sound right?
Nobody has answered your question, but I'll give you a generic answer since I'm not familiar specifically with the 2002CRV.
Years ago prior to computers, the timing between the crankshaft and the camshaft was fixed with the timing chain. The distributor was driven off of the camshaft, and it's basic timing was adjustable by loosening the distributor and turning it. So with a strobe light, you would adjust the sparkflug firing to be at factory specs which was some degrees before top dead center. Once that was set, the distributors had a vacuum advance. What that did was to advance the timing further depending upon the amount of the vacuum that the engine had on it. This adjusted the timing depending upon the load on the engine.
With the advent of the computers in car technology, this is all now controlled by the computer. There are sensors which detect where the crankshaft is, there are sensors which detect the airflow, sensors that detect exactly how good the fuel is being burnt (O2 sensors), sensors on the transmission to know your speed, sensors on the gas pedal to know how much power you are calling for, sensors to know the engine operating temperature, and sensors to detect knocking (pre-ignition) in the cylinders. Knowing all that, the computer can adjust the fuel mixture and timing for optimal power and performance.
Not sure why you believe you should be adjusting anything in regards to the timing.
I won't be doing it myself, but would like to understand the process.
I want the firing of the spark plug to occur when the piston is at the top of the cylinder.
How can I get the timing adjusted to make this happen?
Regards
Joe
Since you have the i-VTEC engine (K-series), the computer controlls the timing as well as the valve lift and duration. The OEM computer is pre-programmed with "safe" defaults for almost every situation the engine will operate.
If you want to mess with it, you need to get Hondata computer, which for a couple thousand dollar will allow you adjust it on the fly through a laptop or a PDA.
Alternativley, you can have your own computer re-flashed by Hondata for a couple of hundred dollars, to either their "performance" program, or if you think you can do better, to your supplied program.
http://www.hondata.com/
Interesting. For the Gen 2 (2002-2006 CR-V), one had to hold the button down before starting the car, then continue to hold it for 10 seconds after the car was started; this would reset the maintenance minder.
With 7,500 miles I still have 40% oil life remaining, which works out to 12,000 miles per oil change. But my 1st year anniversary will arrive first.
It's hard for some people to accept what Honda has done, but basing oil changes on mileage or months alone never made sense except that it was easy. Short trips and stop and go driving (especially in cold weather) is harder on an engine's oil than long trips on the freeway. Honda's system attempts to measure that difference.
I'm actually more interested in how long they keep the information. What if the information on acceleration patterns & etc were used as a factor in some future warranty claim (such as the current Gen 2 compressor issue)?
Not to mention that the computer would know if you have been speeding (if it keeps tabs on the speeds so that it can calculate that all-important service interval).
Could this data be used in a court of law, perhaps to establish fault in an accident?
Does the computer use the GPS capabilities of navigation equipped models to add to the "quality" of the data? After all, it would know if you were in the city most of the time.
It is kind of disconcerting to think that anyone is monitoring my driving patterns, even if their perported purpose is to maintain the appropriate service intervals.
I'm not generally paranoid, but I do prefer my watch over my cars rather than having them watch over my actions. :surprise:
My main point is we just don't know the answer to these privacy questions. I think Honda should be very up front in disclosing to customers exactly what is being monitored and recorded, and for how long, to establish a "variable maintenance interval based on use", which appears to be what the Gen 3 CR-V contains.
Joe
Joe
...
Not to mention that the computer would know if you have been speeding (if it keeps tabs on the speeds so that it can calculate that all-important service interval).
Could this data be used in a court of law, perhaps to establish fault in an accident?
Don't worry, OBDII already collects data on you and your driving habits. Every car made after 1996 has a "black box" device.
There was a case in FL recently, where a young teenager hit a woman backing out of her driveway killing the child in the backseat. He claims he was going the speed limit (35 mph) the woman says she did not even see him. There were no witnesses.
The black box said that he was going 120 mph. Turns out he was street racing another kid. The guy was convicted of involuntary manslaughter.
Current "black box" devices keep information for short periods of time, but it is possible that they can keep a log.
There have been cases where warranty was denied for blown engines because someone mis-shifted, or used forced induction but then removed it before taking the vehicle to the dealership. So, some information stays in the computer for days if not weeks.
Obviously the maintenance reminded info has to be there lots longer.
Good idea for a new topic!
Black Box Data Recording
I don't think you would need a blackbox to nail that one down. 120 mph represents almost 12 times the kinetic energy of 35 mph.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Can you move my post on the CR-V over to that forum?
Let me know if you had the other post in mind to move.
Not too many jurors understand physics, or know what kinetic energy is.
There is a Murphy's Law that states: Juror system is flawed to begin with, because people making guilty/not guilty decisions were not smart enough to get out of jury duty in the first place. lol.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
Do you not have any ethical standards? That's a pretty harsh and irresponsible statement that you don't feel responsible enough yourself. Not smart enough to get out of jury duty in the first place? Why not set a good public example and serve your civic duty, and do your best for the public good?
However, the topic was the "maintenance minder" and the data the new vehicles gather. More and more, these are being used in cases involving high degrees of negligence and irresponsibility. They are generally not used after minor incidents.
Hey, don't kill the messenger. I just stated an existing Murphy's Law. Google Murphy's Law and see for your self.
Here is the Murphy's Law for the day:
Intelligence is constant, population keeps growing.
Somebody wake up the host.
If it's labeled "Murphy's Law" then it is obviously intended in jest. One of Murphy's corollaries states that "If an attempt at humor can be misinterpreted it will be."
In any case, it's time to move on and get back to the designated topic.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
All right, here is my input. Having a vehicle try and "figure out" the maintenance interval is stupid. I think that the Gen 2 method of having the driver consider either severe or normal driving conditions is the better method.
Plus, it doesn't raise privacy concerns ... valid or not (and we just don't know).
IMHO, just another example of taking technology too far - just because something is possible doesn't mean it is best. Two examples:
- Remember the craze of digital dashboards a couple of decades ago?
- BMW iDrive. 'nuf said there...
Everyone who builds things should have two separate departments. The science department says "look what I can do with the technology", and the consumer department says "yeah, but why the heck would you want to do that?
A basic reality check is in order when designing new stuff. Too bad the Edsel folks didn't think of this... :surprise:
About the first: You can't return the car. The dealership won't fix it for free through the service dept unless you can prove that the crack happened before you accepted delivery of the car. It's not the dealership's responsibility- to try to get them to pay for it through warranty would probably be a type of fraud, and only leads to high costs for all customers later!
The 2nd issue: You didn't have windshield coverage at the time of the crack. You can buy the coverage and not tell your agent about the crack- then submit the claim, but that would be insurance fraud.
It's probably easier to get away with the 2nd than the first. But really the responsibility for the repair is on you. The Honda didn't damage the windshield, so why should they fix it? You didn't purchase the insurance option, so why should they pay for it?
Provided this is an isolated incident. The Honda Element 1st year cracked windshields on a lot of vehicles - they were assembled wrong.
But this is the first I've heard of any windshield problems in the Gen 3, so it is probably an isolated incident.
If you can find a pit where a stone may have started it, then it is not covered under warranty. If there are no pits or craters along the crack, then it is a defect. A service writer will go out there with a ball point pen and run it along the crack. If there is a crater, the pen will stop.
As far as insurance goes, if you add glass coverage now, they will ask you to go for inspection, which will find that you have pre-existing condition (cracked glass) and the policy will not cover it.
NY is a big state (400 miles across 300 miles vertically), but if you are in NYC area, Hunts point in the Bronx is a great area for cheap glass work. I think I got a windshield replaced there for $140 for Gen 1.
As others pointed out, it's not too much $ to replace.
Since you say you need an extra remote, that means you already have one remote on hand. Turn it over and check the FCC code on it, and look for remotes that have the same FCC code.
Secondly, does this cost of this part looks reasonable? I found many non-OEM parts, but many of them appeared to be not good enough for California Emission Standards ;-)
I found one such non-OEM 'Diversified Environmental Cat. Honda Catalytic Converter' for about $500.
Does anyone have experience with this non-OEM, or any comments on my choices.
Thanks in advance.
I had 2 maintenance questions:
1) According to the manual you're supposed to change your oil only when the maintenance minder shows Oil Life as 15% or lower. Its been 8 months and 12,000 miles and my CRV is still only at 50%. I've never owned a car that i haven't changed oil that later. Is this normal? Is there anything wrong if i get it serviced at this point instead of waiting for the maintenance minder to hit 15%?
2) How often are you supposed to get your tires rotated? Is there a maintenance minder for that also? I'm not sure if you're supposed to do it at the normal 6,000 mile intervals.
Thanks.
Honda suggests you rely on the maintenance minder, but to have your oil changed at 1 year if the system hasn't yet recommended one.
New Honda's, apparently, come with break-in oil that Honda preferred you let do its job, that is, don't drain it at 1,000 miles. At 12,000 miles, I'd feel free to do what you want.
Just remember to reset.
Rotation is indicated on the minder also but remember it's up to you.
There is probably other pieces they're including in the parts price, like the heat shields, rubber mounts, gaskets, etc., that would normally be replaced, at the same time.
I'd see if you could get a detailed estimate from them, including the part numbers, then go to the Bernardi website, and compare the prices. Some dealerships will come down on the price, if you can show them that you can order the parts elsewhere, for less.
Problem is I am having difficulties getting a used ECU (37820-PHK-A03) but the Auto trans ECU (37820-PHK-A53) seems to be more readily available .
Question is, can i install the Auto Trans ECU in the car? If yes, are there any workarounds or downsides involved.
Also it seems the A01, A02, A51, A52 are older (1999) revisions of the ECUs. Are these also compatible?
Any pointers as to how I can obtain the manual ECU will also be appreciated.
thanx