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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    My wife has a 2003 CRV EX w/AWD (or Hondas version of it) with the 5 speed manual transmission...It has 116,000 miles (many of it on the hwy), has been well maintained (serviced @ a Honda dealership), & it runs well...Outta curiosity I asked one of the service writers what it would cost for a new clutch to be installed (figuring it could go @ any time considering the mileage), & was shocked to hear it'll be approx $1900 plus tax; later on I called a rival Honda dealership to get an estimate from them - they too quoted me $1900 plus tax.

    Are these estimates accurate, or are the costs legit considering the labor/parts involved?

    Seems very pricey to me (then again I've had alot of work done in the past year due to the mileage on the CRV, & what Honda reccommends, & it never seems inexpensive)...Kelly Blue book estimates my wifes' CRV @ approx $6500 for a trade-in; maybe we should look into trading it in sooner than later.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Seems too high. The clutch disk is $125, the pressure plate $164, the throw-out bearing and pilot bearing about $50 total, plus around 7.5 hours labor.

    So in California this would be about a $1300 job.

    If the flywheel needed replacing, add another $260.

    So we don't know your state's labor rate, nor are we quite sure how many components are being replaced for that "quote" you got.

    I'd suggest trying an independent Honda shop. Anyway, you now know the ballpark numbers.
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Thanks for your reply.

    This same Honda dealership charged us $220 for the removal of the old/rusted heat shield (on the catalytic converter), & to replace it with a new one (just the heat shield - catalytic converter okay)...Again I'm not so sure if we're overpaying, or if the costs are legit.

    Either way I'm very wary of sinking in another large sum of $$$ on a vehicle that we don't plan on keeping much longer. With our 2nd child on the way I'd like to get a larger vehicle (our Ford Edge is great, but lacks cargo capacity); I like the looks of both the Odyssey, & the Sienna.
  • skenn1skenn1 Member Posts: 1
    Took it in for the minor maintainance service today. At 28,300 miles the feedback was:

    * change power steering fluid - $139
    * Fuel injections system (clean due to carbon build-up) - $159
    * throttle body something/clean? (says it gets gummed up) - $139
    * battery is weak at 308 volts (versus recommended 410v) - suggested get new battery

    I have no way of knowing how necessary any of these are right now. Would like your opinion on necessity...

    Thanks much.
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    They're ripping you off -find another service location. Honda required service is too expensive as it is without them trying to add a bunch of not needed high profit dealer packs. Stick to the owners manual requirements. The battery can be a problem if you live in extreme hot or cold weather. They are very small in size and don't hold up that well. I got a replacement at Wal Mart that has lasted much better than the OEM Honda one and cost a fraction of the price.
  • chuck914chuck914 Member Posts: 15
    My CRV has a left speaker or "channel" problem...basically no or little crackly sound from trhe left (both left front & left rear).
    Ques:
    1) is this common?

    2) how easy is the radio to replace (I doubt both left speakers are defective at once).

    3) what aftermarket (iPod) radio fits best?

    thanks in advance
  • defieldingdefielding Member Posts: 35
    Hi fmichael,
    I've never heard of anyone replacing a clutch that continues to work well as a matter of preventative maintanance. Usually, when a clutch starts to go you have warning signs like having the friction point at the end of the stroke of the clutch peddle (or the vehicle wants to creep ahead with the clutch peddle all the way depressed). When you find the clutch engagement point changing over time you can adjust the clutch linkage a few times before replacing the clutch. 116,000 miles is not that high a mileage for these vehicles.
  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    I agree with defielding's reply. Almost all of my cars have been sticks, & I've never replaced a clutch until I've had to. It doesn't make sense to replace a clutch that's in good working order. That's throwing money away. Your unit might be a couple of years away from failing.

    I can tell you from personal experience that when Honda clutches fail, they do so gradually. You'll have weeks to decide what to do next. You won't be stranded.

    If you want to save money on maintenance & repairs, find a good independent mechanic. There's no reason to go back to the dealer except to have warranty work done. My CR-V hasn't been back to the dealer since I took delivery - more than 3 years ago.
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    Hey defielding, & jimbres - thanks for the replies :shades:

    I by no means am looking to replace the clutch - it works perfectly fine right now (hopefully it'll continue to do so)...I was shocked @ the quote I was given ($1900 plus tax) for a new clutch if needed, & was more or less curious if this quote was appropriate, or if it was excessive.

    Over the past 12 months I've spent alot of $$$ on the recommended maintenance/new tires/new brakes...This CRV is pretty much set for the next 60,000 to 70,000 miles with 1 exception - the clutch (my only concern @ this point in time).

    Since the CRV has 116,000 plus miles on it - my wife, & I don't wish to spend any more $$$ for major repairs on it anytime soon since we're looking to sell it/trade it in for a mini van this summer (2nd child on the way).
  • mjb56mjb56 Member Posts: 170
    Even if you have to put in a new clutch, that's less than you'd pay in taxes and a couple of payments on a new one. Our 2000 CR-V has 119K on it and just had the full scope of maintenance items done. I figure it's good to go for at least another 100K. Don't be so quick to sell it off. Or if you do, hold out for top dollar as these thing have a long life expectancy when maintained properly.
  • marksj1marksj1 Member Posts: 20
    Can someone tell me where this O2 sensor would be located,and how I might be able to check it?Car only has 62,000 mi and I believe it may have been replaced in warranty.Dealer wants $335 to replace it.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive/how_to/4219927.html

    How to Replace an Oxygen Sensor: Saturday Mechanic

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oxygen_sensor

    http://cardealerforums.com/rec-autos-makers-honda/t116093-honda-civic-1999-p0135- - -oxygen-sensor-change-d16y7-story.html

    http://www.justanswer.com/questions/yo9y-04-cr-v-today-p0135-code

    http://blog.zhaospace.com/2008/07/replacing-o2-sensor-in-2005-honda-cr-v-lx/
  • fmichaelfmichael Member Posts: 95
    True - it's cheaper than purchasing a new vehicle - however with a 2nd child on the way we could use a mini van for the much needed cargo room...Odyssey, & Sienna are both on my list to check out.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    My wife has a 2003 CRV EX w/AWD (or Hondas version of it) with the 5 speed manual transmission...It has 116,000 miles (many of it on the hwy), has been well maintained (serviced a Honda dealership), & it runs well...Outta curiosity I asked one of the service writers what it would cost for a new clutch to be installed (figuring it could go any time considering the mileage), & was shocked to hear it'll be approx $1900 plus tax; later on I called a rival Honda dealership to get an estimate from them - they too quoted me $1900 plus tax.

    Are these estimates accurate, or are the costs legit considering the labor/parts involved?

    Seems very pricey to me (then again I've had alot of work done in the past year due to the mileage on the CRV, & what Honda reccommends, & it never seems inexpensive)...Kelly Blue book estimates my wifes' CRV approx $6500 for a trade-in; maybe we should look into trading it in sooner than later.

    If your wife is good with the clutch and like oyu said most of the miles are highway, you have about 200,000 miles left on that factory clutch.

    The only time I hear about clutch needing replacement is when kids try to do burn outs.

    I had sold my old Civic with 250,000 miles and original clutch. It has over 300,000 miles on it now, and still on the original clutch.

    Independant shops usually charge $600 to replace the clutch. You can get better parts prices if you buy from online Honda vendors. They sell the same OEM parts, but at a discount. Usually they are B&M Honda dealerships with internet storefronts.

    If you are really insisting on replacing the clutch, might as well add the 6th gear while you have the tranny off the vehicle. It only costs $300 in parts from Acura TSX, RSX-S or Civic Si, and a knowledgeable mechanic to do it. There is just a spacer in place for the 6th gear right now.
  • mjb56mjb56 Member Posts: 170
    I tried changing the fluid myself today but couldn't get the drain/fill plugs out on my 2000 CR-V. They're in extremely tight and I can't get any leverage without the car on a lift. I saw a youtube video in which the guy uses the jack to leverage the weight of the car against the wrench but that doesn't seem to smart. Any other suggestions before I run to the repair shop?
  • dave_cldave_cl Member Posts: 54
    If you find the magic recipe to take out the plugs, be sure to remove the filler plug BEFORE you take out the drain plug. A drained differential is no fun, if you can't refill it!
  • stevedebistevedebi Member Posts: 4,098
    "Six months seems kind of a long time for the Cosmoline to burn off. Six weeks should be more like it. I didn't think they sprayed that stuff on the engine either, just on the undercarriage. "

    No idea what it was, this was the dealer explanation, and in my case it was true. The smell gradually went away, and at the 6 month point there was no smell, and it never returned.
  • jimbresjimbres Member Posts: 2,025
    If you are really insisting on replacing the clutch, might as well add the 6th gear while you have the tranny off the vehicle. It only costs $300 in parts from Acura TSX, RSX-S or Civic Si, and a knowledgeable mechanic to do it. There is just a spacer in place for the 6th gear right now.

    Interesting! I didn't know this. So I can add a 6th gear to my 5M '06 CR-V for approximately $300 + labor? That's reasonable, given that I'm planning to keep my car for at least another 8 years.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My wife has had a new car itch for a few months now but she's a bit sensitive to chemical stuff - she can barely tolerate going into a place like IKEA and forget fabric stores.

    If she winds up with a car that out-gasses like that for six months, she's not going to be a happy camper.

    A friend of ours over in Colorado got a new Forester and something - either the door gaskets or a leaky heater core - has just about given her chemical pneumonia.

    On the other hand, I could save some bucks and maybe convince her to buy a used one that's had time for some of the fumes to dissipate. :shades:
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Put the socket wrench on they hit the handle with a hammer. That's what worked for me.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    I remember there was a place in ann arbor, michigan that put out a report about the outgassing of materials in cars. here's the link http://www.healthycar.org/home.php to their main website

    The CR-V is here http://www.healthycar.org/vehicle.details.php?getrecno=2383
    pretty good in comparison of all the new vehicles out there.

    The forester, I can see why they aren't doing well healthwise, it had a lot more chemicals outgassing than the CR-V here's the link to the forester
    http://www.healthycar.org/vehicle.details.php?getrecno=2537

    and the older cars do dissipate over time, but the older ones might have more in them. I've noticed that Honda gets better over time in a current model design. but yes we could go along with your theory of "saving bucks" hehehe ;)
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    The headlight cover on my 04 CRV is damp and fogged up. Dealer claims it must be cracked, but their is no noticeable damage on the lens or the bumper. It is apparently a $500 repair because you have to replace the whole headlamp assembly. Is this a CRV problem area?
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    My 04 CRV has developed the same problem on the driver side. I obtained a new headlight from eBay for cheap but it's a hassle to change. There are some bolts that are only accessible from under the bumper cover. I may tackle it someday.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    common problem with many different cars. Has to do, as I recall, with the seal of the lamp, not a crack issue.
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    Do you think drilling a small weep hole at the bottom of the lens cover would help dissipate some of the condensation and fogging? Thanks
  • mjb56mjb56 Member Posts: 170
    I gave up and took it to the independent garage. They did the labor for $30. And, yes, they basically hit it with a hammer to loosen it up. Unfortunately I didn't have a lift and couldn't get the leverage to loosen it. But since the Honda dealer wanted to charge me $90 to do this I got away with it for less than $40. Yeah, I could have done it cheaper but I saved a few scraped knuckles. Oh well. Now it's done for another 30K mi.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah but would also let it in again :)
  • dtstofdtstof Member Posts: 61
    I had an Accord tail light that had the same problem. I waited until a warm day when the condensation was dried and then applied silicone on the edge. It never had the problem again
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    latex caulk is even less messy but I don't recall if they make such a thing in a CLEAR, sorry. I guess if your tail light seal was conspicuously black you could use black latex caulk and then easily clean it up with water and a rag after squeezing some in there.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Interesting! I didn't know this. So I can add a 6th gear to my 5M '06 CR-V for approximately $300 + labor? That's reasonable, given that I'm planning to keep my car for at least another 8 years.

    Honda uses the same transmission in all the vehicles with K-series engines. Ours has a PTO shaft, but the rest just have a plug there.

    If you look at the tranny blue prints in the shop manual, there is a spacer where the 6th gear would have been. Since the TSX, RSX-S and Si all come with 6 speed trannsmisison, people have been using those stock Honda parts and installing the 6th gear. It started with the Element owners (shorter final drive) and spread to the CR-V's. People report 500 RPM drop on the highway, which translates to about 3-5 mpg boost. As it is, in stock form, driven at the speed limit (65 here) I get 30 mpg. I wouldn't have minded having a 35 mpg SUV. :-)
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    I brought up my battery issues before in my father's 2007 CR-V back in this post where I discussed what I did for the 40k service.

    Specifically I had said:

    ...Lastly, my CR-V has been needed to be jumped a few times in the past couple weeks. Yesterday I was sitting in the car with the engine off, but battery on and listening to the radio for about 30 minutes and the battery died and needed a jump. I thought this meant a weak battery which should be changed under warranty, but their battery test said it was still good (12.58V/449 CCA). So as a result, they wouldn't give me a new battery.

    fussycrvowner had replied and said:

    I had similar issues with my battery. It would only start after I turned the key a few times. When I got home it died completely. I measured the voltage when it wouldn't start and it was down to 10.2 volts. What it turned out to be was a bad cell which was periodically shorting out. The battery has six cells which measure around two volts apiece. Chances are that one of them may be bad and intermittently shorting out. Other possibility is to have them test the charging output of your alternator. It may be putting out low current and not keeping the battery charged. A lot of short trips will drain down the battery as well if it isn't driven enough to replenish what was used in cranking.

    Well, 4+ months later, when the car died both times in one day, we decided it was time to take it back into the dealer again and they just replaced the battery under warranty. The receipt says "Open in Battery." Exact mileage at time of service was 52,610 miles.

    I don't think my father has had problems since then so I'm guessing/hoping that the problem was just the battery and that's that.
  • mike628mike628 Member Posts: 3
    2004..... 91,000 miles.......Couldnt get rid of the vibration.......Never really liked it anyway, but needed a mini suv for a while......Traded it in for an 09 Civic LX...........our 3rd Civic......Love it.
    So, this is my farewell to the CRV Forum.
    Thanks
    Mike
  • robleso7473robleso7473 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all,
    I'm hoping one or more of you have had this issue because I'm stumped:
    Right headlamp went out. I first checked fuse, it was fine. I then pulled out bulb, it was fine. Does anyone know what else I can check without having to pull wires out? Is the wire from the fuse box to the bulb socket bad?
    Thanks.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    Swap the working left with the right headlamp to see if the right is back on. Sometimes the problem is hidden.
  • robleso7473robleso7473 Member Posts: 3
    I actually pulled out the right bulb and tested it on the bench. It lights up no problem. The fuse is ok too but something I observed something else that bothered me: I pulled out the R-HL fuse and used a voltmeter to determine if the hotside of the fuse socket had 12V and it did, then for sh*ts and giggles I measured the cold side of the fuse socket and guess what?? It also had 12V.....what good is the fuse for then? There's something fishy going on with the wiring here.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    I'm reply to a post that detailed the last major service we did back on 11/01/2008 at 40,232 miles in our 2007 CR-V 4WD. We did the oil change recently (maybe 1k miles ago), but didn't do anything else. We had swung by one of our local Honda dealers (Jim Coleman Honda) recently to get the oil change reminder thing reset. The guy there recommended and gave us printouts on their "Schedule 'B' Recommended Service" (@45k, $310) and "Schedule 'C' Recommended Service". (@60k, $469)

    both services include the following items:
    - Replace oil and filter
    - Install BG MOA oil supplement (reduce friction/extend life of engine)
    - Install BG Carbon Fighter 5 (prevents & removes fuel system deposits)
    - Inspect drive belts
    - Inspect radiator and coolant hoses
    - Inspect cooling fan operation
    - Inspect suspension system and mounting bolt torque
    - Inspect exhaust pipes and muffler
    - Inspect emissions controls for proper operation
    - Inspect steering rack and tie rod ends
    - Rotate Tires and inspect for wear and damage
    - Set proper tire pressure
    - check power steering operation
    - Load test battery and clean terminals (don't really need this, just had battery replaced under warranty - posted about it a few posts up)
    - Inspect brake pads and shoes for wear
    - Inspect brake lines and hoses
    - Inspect parking brake adjustment
    - Top off windshield washer fluid
    - Inspect windshield wiper blades and inserts
    - Check PCV system
    - Inspect vehicle lighting
    - lubricate door hinges and seals
    - lubricate hood hinges and latch
    - clean engine compartment
    - inspect drive axle boots and bands
    - reset maintenance indicator
    - road test vehicle

    the differences in the Schedule B/45k service (that the Schedule C/60k service doesn't have) is as follows:
    - Inspect automatic transmission fluid level
    - Inspect valve clearance
    - replace antifreeze (done so early? in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder, this wasn't done til 120,000 miles)
    - inspect and clean air filter element

    the differences in the Schedule C/60k service (that the Schedule B/45k service doesn't have) is as follows:
    - Replace transmission fluid (again, done so early? My 2004 Accord 4 cylinder had this done at 120k miles too I believe)
    - Inspect transmission linkage
    - Adjust valve clearance as required (again, done so early? this was checked out at 110k miles in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder)
    - replace spark plugs (again, done so early? this was checked out at 120k miles in my 2004 Accord 4 cylinder)
    - replace air filter element
    - inspect ignition wires
    - inspect distribution cap and rotor
    - inspect idle speed
    - inspect water pump for leaks
    - inspect antifreeze level and protection
    - replace brake fluid (again, done so early? in my 2004 Accord, this was done every 3 years).
    - inspect antilock brake system operation
    - Perform differential service (additional) (not sure what this is all about)

    Any thoughts? for the 30k service on the car, I paid $20 to firestone adn for that price they did a complete vehicle inspection which I believe covered pretty much everything that was listed to be done for that service. and then the air filter & cabin air filter I ordered and installed myself. And the oil change and tire rotation I had done at the dealer using a $30 coupon. so all in all, I think I paid under $100 for everything.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    You can do most of this yourself in about 2 hours. Rotate tries is the longest task, about 20 minutes with a floor jack. O&F is about 15 -20 minutes.

    Regards,
    OW
  • berriberri Member Posts: 10,165
    There's something fishy going on with the wiring here.

    Well, they were made in Britain weren't they!
  • robleso7473robleso7473 Member Posts: 3
    No, they were actually built in Japan. This is the first problem I've had w/ my CRV in the 4 years I've owned it.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Wow $770 for oil change and oil and fuel additives!!!!!!!!!

    I'd go back and point out in the OWNER's MANUAL that no oil additives are needed, and may void the warranty.

    I would also ask them to show how they check and adjust valve clearance on a K24 engine.

    I would also point out the 105,000 milelife of the spark plugs.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Thanks for the feedback circlew/OW. I'm not really handy though so I couldn't do most of this on my own. What I'm most interested in is figuring out what really needs to be checked out right now and what doesn't. Again, for $20, Firestone does a complete vehicle inspection which I think covers most (maybe all?) of these things. So w/ all the inspections taken care of there, and the two things I know how to do - air and cabin air filters - I'm wondering how many other action items are really needed to be done.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Thanks for the feedback blueiedgod. This is EXACTLY the kind of info I'm looking for. Can't imagine spark plugs need to be done now. I expected the valve clearance to be needed to be done much later because of my experience with my 2004 Accord 4 cyclinder, but it seems from your post that this can't even be done on this engine? And no additives needed, got it.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Change the oil and filter and rotate the tires front to back on the same sides.

    Let Firestone inspect the rest. Then, see what is left based on the suggested mileage milestones as per the maintenance schedule in the manual.

    Save your $$$.

    Regards,
    OW
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Thanks for the feedback blueiedgod. This is EXACTLY the kind of info I'm looking for. Can't imagine spark plugs need to be done now. I expected the valve clearance to be needed to be done much later because of my experience with my 2004 Accord 4 cyclinder, but it seems from your post that this can't even be done on this engine? And no additives needed, got it.

    No problem.

    I would just go by the OWNER's MANUAL's SEVERE schedule and have them to those items.

    I am not sure if the OWNER's MANUAL for Gen 3 lists service items. Maintenance minder may just list the codes for items that need to be done, then look up the codes in the OWNER's MANUAL.

    I would find a more honest shop to this done at, as well.
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    I just got a new Honda 09 CR-V AWD LX, but want to hear suggestions about the warranty. what warranty should I get for this car? Thanks?
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    In my opinion, especially for a Honda, the best extended warranty is NONE! The percentages are in your favor here. The 3 yr 36K mile standard warranty will weed out most problems IF you have any at all. If you are hell bent on being prepared for a future problems outside of that time frame, put the $900-1000 you would have spent into a savings account. Chances are you won't have to tap it .
  • jillibeanjillibean Member Posts: 2
    Have an 05 CRV and it has started making a grinding and rattling noise. The noise startes when you crank it up and is loudest while the car is ideling.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Possibly a loose heat shield over the catalytic converter? That noise would be a rattle by the right front wheel. While on the subject: Anybody know of a good way to get the rusted bolts off the converter? I need to replace the heat shields because they are rusted away and am scared of doing more damage trying to break them loose.
  • jillibeanjillibean Member Posts: 2
    The noise is more of a grating grinding noise. My husband doesn't think it is all that serious butthe car should not sound that way. The sound never goes away unless you turn it off.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Could be A/c compressor
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