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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • dmacciocdmaccioc Member Posts: 13
    Hi-

    I just bought a new CR-V EX-L Friday night and overall really like the vehicle. I test drove the vehicle before buying and everything checked out. However, the next day, a rattling noise emerged from the sunroof area, and it doesn't matter whether the sunroof is closed, open, or cracked to "vent". I've pushed on the sunroof slightly and it seems to be very sturdy, so I don't know where the rattling is coming from.

    Has anyone had similar experiences? I am concerned because the sound is really distracting and not something I could deal with long-term on the car. I hope the dealer can fix it right the first time. Would love to know how it was fixed and if the problem came back.

    Thanks-
    Don
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Remember, synthetic oil does not break down.

    Yet today's modern oils are vastly improved over those of 20 years ago. For oils that meet the current "SJ" service designation, viscosity breakdown is no longer a significant problem, thanks to modern formulation technologies and viscosity enhancers. Auto manufacturers have also redesigned their engines for tighter clearances and instituted precision machining techniques that take advantage of thinner oil to deliver improved fuel economy through reduced friction.

    Like the OEMs, racers have discovered that friction reductions plus precision tight clearances yield greater efficiency and more power. Racers also know that most engine wear occurs at start-up, so it's critical that engine parts receive proper lubrication as soon as possible--hence the need for an initially thinner, so-called "winter" viscosity. Today, few racers run a single-viscosity motor oil except nitro-burners. According to 76 Lubricants, most NASCAR teams use the really thin stuff during qualifying, moving up to 20W-50 during the long race (although it's rumored some teams may use the extreme cold-weather thin oils all the time, but don't want to admit to their latest performance "trick").

    Synthetic oils, pioneered in the '70s by Mobil and now available from most major oil companies, take the all-season, multiviscosity approach to the outer limits. Unlike traditional mineral oils that are produced by distillation and further refining of existing crude oil stock, synthetic lubricants are made through chemical reactions. These new oils aren't synthetic or artificial in the sense that they're manufactured out of whole cloth--they still have the same natural ingredients found in "real" oil. But in a synthetic lubricant, these ingredients are recombined like a Lego set to yield synthesized-hydrocarbon molecular chains with desirable characteristics and uniformity not found in even the highest-quality traditional motor oils. Typically, the best synthetic oils use a combination of up to three different synthetic base fluids--polyalphaolefin (PAO), synthetic esters, and alkylated aromatics.

    Because a synthetic oil's molecules are much more consistent in size and shape, they are better able to withstand extreme engine temperatures. By contrast, the unstable molecules in conventional oil can easily vaporize or oxidize in extreme heat. Mobil 1 synthetic is said to be capable of protecting engines "at well over 400 degrees F"; in the real world, most racers have no problem running synthetics up to 290 degrees F under prolonged use, but they get really jumpy when a conventional exceeds 270 degrees F.

    Because a synthetic oil is chemically produced, there are no contaminants in the oil. By contrast, conventional oils contain small amounts of sulfur, wax, and asphaltic material that can promote detonation as well as varnish and sludge buildup. With no wax, synthetics will flow at much lower temperatures than conventional oils. In fact, synthetic oils are now available with viscosity ratings as low as 0W-30, as in Mobil 1's new Tri-Synthetic blend or Castrol Formula SLX. These oils flow more than seven times faster than a conventional 5W-30 motor oil during initial start-up, yet at normal operating temperatures act like a regular Grade 30 oil.

    An 0W-30 synthetic oil is capable of pumping easily at -62 degrees F and flowing at even lower temperatures. Conventional oils are essentially frozen solid at that temperature, so there's simply no conventional equivalent to this new grade. There are 5W-30 conventional and synthetic oils, but even here, the synthetic has a real-world advantage: Mobil 1's 5W-30 will pump at -58-degrees F, compared to about -35-degrees F for a conventional oil.

    Regards,
    OW
  • theodortheodor Member Posts: 1
    i just found the new CR-V service manual and share it for people who search for it
    its Honda CRV service manual 2007 2008 2009
    link part1
    link part2
    link part3
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Remember, synthetic oil does not break down.

    Au Contraire. Synthetics do break down. But, because the molecule size distribution is more uniform (think of the bell shape distribution and 99% of the molecule sizes are within 0.5% either side of the median. They all break down at the same rate to the same size.

    There are no shorter chains that break down faster and longer chains that breakdown to individual molecules longer. shorter chains, once broken down are useless, and become junk inhibiting the still functioning longer chains from performing.

    Also, not all synthetics are truly synthetic oils with narrow molecule size distribution.

    Most of the so called synthetics are nothing more than highly purified conventional oils. They are processed through what is called "hydrockracking" or basically steaming.

    Mobil1(except for Extended Performance), Quaker state, Pennzoil, Castrol Syntec (except for 0W-40 or whichever is made in Germany), Valvoline Synthetic... are all FAUX synthetics.

    Mobil1 EP, Castrol Syntec (has to say: "Made in Germany"), Royal Purple, Amsoil (don't like their sales tactics) and a few others are still true synthetics.

    Since there is no price break when buying FAUX synthetics, make sure you buy true synthetic oils. Otherwise you are wasting your money.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My buddy that sells Amsoil told me that the molecular tails in it break within 3,000 miles too. I think you are just wasting your money putting synthetic in ordinary passenger cars to begin with.

    I almost got some synthetic the other day though. NAPA was out of 5w30 and the synthetic was on sale for almost as cheap as my usual flavor. But I went to WallyWorld and got a 5 quart jug of SuperTech for under $10.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Remember, synthetic oil does not break down.

    Au Contraire. Synthetics do break down. But, because the molecule size distribution is more uniform (think of the bell shape distribution and 99% of the molecule sizes are within 0.5% either side of the median. They all break down at the same rate to the same size.

    My buddy that sells Amsoil told me that the molecular tails in it break within 3,000 miles too. I think you are just wasting your money putting synthetic in ordinary passenger cars to begin with.

    Didn't I just say that?
    The difference is how synthetics breakdown. Lets say that all of the molecules in the oil are 86 monomers long. And you lose a monomer per 200 miles.

    All of the moluecules in synthetic oil will be 74 monomers long after 100 miles. The oil is still funcitonal.

    In the dyno oil, some of the molecules are 150 monomers long, and some are 30 molecules long. The short ones will lose 1/3 of their monomers in 1000 miles. After prolonged use, there will be a bunch of cooked up monomers form all the short chains that have disintegrated, and a bunch of now shortened formerly long molecules trying to perform. But, because of the overwhelming number of broken down monomeric species, the long molecules won't perform.

    Hope my layman's explanation gets to the point.

    I agree, that if one changes the oil on the regular basis, then dyno will suffice. But, if one were to be more environmentaly concious, and wanted to generate less pollution, and smaller carbon footprint (used oil is one of them) one could use higher quality oil and prolonged service intervals to achieve such goal.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Oil's better than it used to be and my intervals are 7,500 on dead dino. 15,000 mile intervals would be better but I don't drive that many miles a year, so I bump up on the time problem.

    If all else fails, check the owner's manual. :shades:
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Too bad they don't charge a deposit for the used oil like they do in some states for cans and bottles. Recycling is a good alternative to dumping in the back yard and hoping it disappears. What happens to the used oil you take to the parts store anyway? ;)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Too bad they don't charge a deposit for the used oil like they do in some states for cans and bottles. Recycling is a good alternative to dumping in the back yard and hoping it disappears. What happens to the used oil you take to the parts store anyway?

    Someone would have to be really foolish these days to dump the oil in their back yard.

    A lot of oil changing places use used oil as heating oil in the winter. So, it just gets burned. National chains probably send it to recyclers which clean it up and make it into greases, lubricants, or other grades of oil.

    Problem with a lot of DIYer is that they would not think twice about mixing the oil with antifreeze or brake fluid and then taking it to the store for recycling.

    One problem I see with deposits on used oil, is the low-lives stealing oil from cars parked on the streets.

    I remember a few years back when I lived in the Bronx, there was a rash of catalytic converters being cut off from high sitting vehicles. It was easy for crooks to slide under the car, cut it off with a battery powered cut off tool and be on their way in a matter of minutes. They were selling them to scrap yards.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The county has curbside waste oil pickup here in Boise. I have 5 quarts sitting out right now. The used stuff gets re-refined into base stock for lubricating oil - oil doesn't really wear out. The parts stores and quick lube joints probably sell it.

    A deposit probably would keep a bunch of it out of the landfills.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    "One problem I see with deposits on used oil, is the low-lives stealing oil from cars parked on the streets"

    Not to mention all of the service bulletins created addressing excessive oil consumption and missing drain plugs... :P
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    folks, i have got CRV April 11th.

    Last week, the tire pressure light is on and i checked manual and tires, found that there is one tire has very low pressure, only 25 psi. i have added air and the light went off. But after two days the light is on again and i checked the air pressure again, it is again 25 psi. So i decided to send the car to dealers and have them checked for me.

    But it is my first new car and I have no experience to deal with dealer service. I have the manufacture warranty, so does it cover the tire? do i need to pay for this service. As I understand, i should be under factory warranty, am I right?
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    Your Dealer should offer to re-mount and re-balance the wheel at no cost to you. Dealers in general seem to have no appreciation for the value of other peoples' time. Tell them you cannot afford to keep returning to the Dealer to repair faults that should not have happened to a new vehicle, and you want them to fix the offending wheel immediately.
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    folks, i have got CRV April 11th.

    Last week, the tire pressure light is on and i checked manual and tires, found that there is one tire has very low pressure, only 25 psi. i have added air and the light went off. But after two days the light is on again and i checked the air pressure again, it is again 25 psi. So i decided to send the car to dealers and have them checked for me.

    But it is my first new car and I have no experience to deal with dealer service. I have the manufacture warranty, so does it cover the tire? do i need to pay for this service. As I understand, i should be under factory warranty, am I right?
  • ohbaobeiohbaobei Member Posts: 19
    usually how often do you guys change oil? Do you follow the panel oil life or follow every 5000 (or 3000) miles?
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    Follow the Maintenance Minder and the code(s) it indicate ...

    One to take note is change oil within 12 months if your mileage is low, not high enough to trigger the MM.
  • madrivermadriver Member Posts: 8
    You've probably figured this out already.....

    I have a 2008 CR-V (which replaced a 2000) and love it. I've occasionally heard a rattle in the car, but every time it turned out to be something like a pen on the center console, or my water bottle or my purse on the backseat - nothing wrong with the car itself, even though the noise may have echoed and sounded like it was coming from somewhere else. I just touch things until I find the place that stops the rattle. (And when it's my purse, which is the most elusive, I pull over to fix it because I can't stand that noise)
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    >>i should be under factory warranty, am I right?

    Right. While tire warranties are generally separate from the car manufacturer's warranty, your dealer will honor it. Assuming the problem is a defective tire or valve stem, your dealer will take care of the problem free of charge. But if the leak is caused by a nail, that's another matter.
  • trcmtrcm Member Posts: 4
    Don,
    I have an '07 CR-V EX-L with a similar rattling (or buzzing) noise, which appears to come from the area immediately behind the sunroof, near the head lamp. When I press that area of the headliner it stops. It is not a consistant noise, but appears to come and go. It is most noticable when the vehicle is in drive gear ("D") and ideling. If I had to guess, I'd say it is a wire (or similar) within the hearliner, near the headlight.

    I took it to the local Honda dealer and asked it they have ever had this complaint. Of course, they said "no." Because it's not critical, I'm reluctant to have them tear it apart to look; the vehicle will never be the same once they did that!

    I would appreciate it if you'd let me know if you learn more about it!
  • tornadogtornadog Member Posts: 102
    Bought my 08 crv in december 2007. Of late I have been noticing bad smell from the ac ducts when I start the car in the morning. It usually lasts a few minutes till the air starts circulating, but of late its becoming longer. its kind of ammonia-ish smell. Other thing is I feel my ride to be very bumpy. Even on freshly laid roads, i can feel every small bump. i remember it used to be much better. Also on turns the car feels kinda wobbly and I almost fear it will topple over if i didnt brake fully. Another thing is, my MM has not come on since I bought it. Its been 18 months and 17000 miles. my oil life is at 40% and whenever i call the dealer they ask me to wait till it goes to 15%. I am taking it to the dealer today. what can i expect? I am not a car person, so help me understand why these 2 problems r happening?
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    If you have high mileage on your tires, that could be your rough ride and also check air pressure. Should be no more than 35 PSI at all corners. If you haven't changed your oil, it's time for an oil change.

    The A/C smell could be because of high moisture if you keep it outside with all the rain lately.

    Regards,
    OW
  • saxon2nsxsaxon2nsx Member Posts: 19
    Anybody has experience replacing stock headlights with Anzo Euro look ones?
    Is Anzo a decent company or Am I buying myself problems?
  • krista1krista1 Member Posts: 4
    I had a friend check the pressure in my A/C to see if that is why it wasn't working. I bought my 04 Honda a year and a half ago in the winter time (didn't check the air) I have gone a year and a half without air and though it would be a quick fix. Normal pressure is 45 and mine was at 160 (danger zone). What am I supposed to do, is it dangerous to drive around with it being so high, is there a way to get it lowered? I'm sure it is some kind of compressure problem (like so many of you have, but I really can't afford a 2000.00 repair bill!!! HELP!!!
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    What you could try is taking to a dealer and paying around $80 to evacuate and recharge the system. Along with that they check the pressures and diagnose problems for you. It's possible that your system is way overcharged and that the pressure safety switches have shut down to protect the compressor from damage. After the dealer makes their assessment, ask them to contact Honda corporate and see if they will make a "goodwill" adjustment for the cost of the repairs. I had mine go out at 39K miles and Honda covered the cost of the parts. I ended up paying only $700 for the cost of the labor. At least with the diagnostic you aren't guessing as to what the problem is and throwing money after unnecessary parts.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I had a friend check the pressure in my A/C to see if that is why it wasn't working. I bought my 04 Honda a year and a half ago in the winter time (didn't check the air) I have gone a year and a half without air and though it would be a quick fix. Normal pressure is 45 and mine was at 160 (danger zone). What am I supposed to do, is it dangerous to drive around with it being so high, is there a way to get it lowered? I'm sure it is some kind of compressure problem (like so many of you have, but I really can't afford a 2000.00 repair bill!!! HELP!!!

    Is it 160 psi on the "high" side or the "low" side?

    Pressure could be high because someone charged it with the wrong refrigerant or the refrigerant had the wrong oil in it.

    I agree, if you have no tools or knowledge, you are better off taking it to Honda and finding out what is wrong before compressor explodes and you have a $3000 repair. It may be as simple as an $80 evacuate and recharge.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    A nagging "clunk" sound has developed in my wife's CRV when driving or medium sized bumps. Pretty sure it's in the rear suspension although when looking around under there and grabbing pieces / shaking, nothing seems overly loose. Vehicle has been super with 120K miles, bringing to dealer soon to mount / balance some new tires I bought (yes dealer cost for this is only $50 to mount/balance all 4!). Will have them check but any past experience from you folks would be appreciated. Strut, sway bar, differential halves, etc? Thanks
  • lou777lou777 Member Posts: 3
    I need to replace timing belt and water pump on my 1999 CR-V. I am not familiar with this task other than bits and pieces told to me by a helpful mechanic. I've also bought 3 belts (alternator, etc.) since it makes sense to replace these too. Also, do I need to replace the tensioner and do I need some kind of yellow glue for some engine seals? Is there a free website that has step by step instructions on how to do this?
    Lou
  • extell1extell1 Member Posts: 1
    I just bought an 09 EXL and I've noticed that the drivers seat isn't that comfortable.
    If I sit with my rump all the way back, its ok. But if you scouch an inch or 2 forward, it feels like im siting on a hard lump. Seems like I sink into a depression also. Very annoying. Has anyone else have this trouble on thier leather seats?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I need to replace timing belt and water pump on my 1999 CR-V. I am not familiar with this task other than bits and pieces told to me by a helpful mechanic. I've also bought 3 belts (alternator, etc.) since it makes sense to replace these too. Also, do I need to replace the tensioner and do I need some kind of yellow glue for some engine seals? Is there a free website that has step by step instructions on how to do this?
    Lou

    Since you stand saving $600 on labor y doing it your self, may I suggest purchasing the official Honda manual from Helm Corporation. Also, since you already are there, might as well replace the water pump. Even though it is not worn out, it will save you time by not having to replace it 50,000 miles later.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    I have the uncomfortable driver seat in my 08 Pilot also.

    Always feel a pressure point on my right hip pocket area. It still same even I changed the sitting cushioning underneath the fabric with the OEM Honda one ordered online from www.bernadiparts.com. Paid another $100 the auto upholstery guy to do replacement.

    I brought it to the dealer and got the usual reply: "nothing wrong with the seat", "that's how it comes with". What a waste of time.

    Now my only solution is put an extra sheep skin cover (bought at Costco) on top the driver seat to minimize the un-comfort. Seat is a simple thing and Honda can't make it work right, yuck.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    The clunk was the rear sway bar bushings which I suspected. I could bang on the sway bar in back and simulate the noise. The dealer has learned that they should (and did) replace the connecting links (small 1/4" links that run vertically from the sway bar up to some other suspension part) at the same time or the sound gets even worse. For $235 it's done. Since I rarely spend any moneu on the CRV was well worth it.

    Also had them mount some Pirelli P4 tire that I purchased on-line and do a 4 wheel alignment. Runs / rides great. Paid only $64 for the upsized 215-70-15 tires.
  • kcall2kcall2 Member Posts: 18
    Easy diagnosis/cure. Both you and extell1 have too big a wad of cash in your hip pocket. Send the extra to me - or alternately get an older BMW hobby car.

    Problem solved! ;)
  • trp182trp182 Member Posts: 1
    Hi....I had the same issue......heard it the following day after purchase. Drove me crazy. My son is a gm mechanic and he offered to fix it for me but I was concerned it would void my warranty. The first time I brought it in they " adjusted and lubed the sunroof" track. Noise went away for a few days. Now bear in mind what they do and what they tell you they did may be two different things. The mechanic may get paid to "adjust" the sunroof" but normally do not get paid to put dynomat or foam in the headliner to stop the rattle. Brought it back a few weeks later and made the service guy drive the car with me in it to show him the rattle. Don't know what they "really" did but it has been gone for over 5 months now. I think they put extra foam pieces when the sunroof metal bracket pieces are but I can't be sure. Now I get a little hum in my drivers door once in a while. I think I will either leave it alone or let my son fix it. Since I only hear it once every couple of weeks it does not bother me that much. But that vibration/rattle right over your head by the sunroof that was making me HATE my brand new car. I think the crvs in general have a lot of squeaks and rattles. The loaner car they gave me had its own different squeaks and rattles going. I had a Dodge Aries K Car(don't laugh my 1st car and I had over 160,000 miles on it when it was totalled, Chevy Beretta, and Nissan Sentra. All of those cars were super quiet so I was surprised how noisy the Honda is. And yes I realize it is an SUV, I have been in other SUV's that are much quieter. But I do otherwise love my CRV. I would buy it again.So in short.........I know your post is a few months old..........Honda should be able to fix it.
  • smith133smith133 Member Posts: 1
    A few years ago, the rear door/hatch sensor light was coming on, even though it was closed securely. Mentioned to (very good) dealer at check up and they said fixed but it wasn't. Now, out of warranty, it is constant - which would not be a huge issue except that the remote lock won't work because it thinks the rear hatch is open! Grrrr. And worse, now the key sticks going in. Had I known this would be a 3-6x per day aggravation, i would have taken care of it under warranty instead of letting it slide. Is this expensive/tough to fix? They thought they had it years ago and didn't. Thoughts? Thanks!
  • ordean59ordean59 Member Posts: 1
    I bought my 2008 CRV in October of 08. The front driver seat is very poorly made. I feel the cross member on my butt. The dealer checked out the seat and reported to me that it is normal. Where can I get a better after market seat that will fit? :mad:
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Check with an auto upholstery shop. They could probably rebuild the seat to fit you better.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    I know what you mean because my 08 Pilot driver seat also a pain in my butt at right pocket area, the place of middle seat joining the right lip.
  • jkahemelejkahemele Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 honda CRV, it vibrates once approaching 30km/h. the vibration ceases once the speed goes above that. what might be the reason? i have done wheel balancing and change tryes but the sitution has not improved.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    I'm replying to the post I made back on March 25, 2009, almost 10,000 miles ago when my dad's CR-V was at almost 53,000 miles. I wrote out what was recommended by the Dealer for 45k and 60k services. circlew and blueiedgod replied and ultimately, it seemed the main things were to rotate the tires and do the oil change and let Firestone inspect the rest for $20. I think the definite to-get-dones were the air filter and the cabin air filter. I questioned the 45k brake flush because I dealt w/ that much later in my 2004 Honda Accord, but I Was looking on Edmunds.com's maintenance schedule (http://www.edmunds.com/maintenance/select.html) and it said to do that at 45k too. That makes me think it should get done, but the other things like Spark plugs, valve clearance, and I think a few other things, I'm going to just ignore the dealer on.

    The good thing is that w/ my tires changed at 57,650 miles (See my post here in the Honda CR-V Tires Wheels and Sensors thread), rotation doesn't need to be done anymore either.

    If anyone has any other thoughts, please chime in, otherwise, I'll start doing the services between a Honda dealer and Firestone over the next few days. The parts I'm looking to purchase are honda brake fluid, honda air filter, honda cabin air filter and Honda Oil (I'm not doing synthetic in this car). I'm planning on trying and getting the price matched from the dealer to http://www.handa-accessories.com/ (I've gotten this done before). Just need to figure out how many quarts of oil I need.

    I thought I'd list out the items to check out from the Edmunds.com maintenance schedule too to help make this post and my last post a one-stop summary of what to do w/ a similar CR-V around this mileage:

    Replace Air filter
    Inspect Brake lines, hoses & connections
    Inspect Brakes
    Replace Cabin air filter
    Inspect boots & seals
    Inspect/adjust Drive belt(s)
    Change Engine oil
    Inspect Exhaust system
    Inspect Fluid levels
    Inspect Fuel lines & hoses
    Lubricate Hinges, locks & latches
    Check operation Lights & accessories
    Replace Oil filter
    Inspect/adjust Parking brake
    Inspect Steering
    Inspect Suspension
    Inspect Tie rod ends, steering gearbox & boots
    Rotate Wheels & tires

    (I've put Rotate Wheels and Tires in italics because I'm ignoring that right now w/ the recent tire change)
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    A few years ago, the rear door/hatch sensor light was coming on, even though it was closed securely. Mentioned to (very good) dealer at check up and they said fixed but it wasn't. Now, out of warranty, it is constant - which would not be a huge issue except that the remote lock won't work because it thinks the rear hatch is open! Grrrr. And worse, now the key sticks going in. Had I known this would be a 3-6x per day aggravation, i would have taken care of it under warranty instead of letting it slide. Is this expensive/tough to fix? They thought they had it years ago and didn't. Thoughts? Thanks!

    I had a simila rissue, and it turned out to be loose bolts hoding the rear door lock. Open the door and look at the lock. There are 3 or 4 phillips bolts. If you have not lost them, yet, tighten them. It should fix the light problem.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have a 1995 honda CRV, it vibrates once approaching 30km/h. the vibration ceases once the speed goes above that. what might be the reason? i have done wheel balancing and change tryes but the sitution has not improved.

    I am pretty sure that 1995 honda CR-V is non-existant. I believe it first appeared in 1996 in Japan, and then as 1997 model in the US.

    If the wheels have been balanced properly, check for bent rims, torn CV-joint, or bent driveshaft.
  • srizvi1srizvi1 Member Posts: 263
    Brake fluid should be completly replaced and bled every 3 years regardless of mileage.

    I'm thinking that's why at the 45k service by both the dealer and edmunds.com it is suggested to deal with the brake fluid. My father's 2007 CR-V is now past 62,500+ miles, but just a little over 2 years old. so I'm thinking I can ignore this for another year?
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    My Honda Dealer/Stealer wants circa $33.00 for a pair of paper cabin filters for my 2005 Honda CR-V, and another outlandish amount to install them. Of course I buy them on eBay for circa $12.00 per pair, and install them myself in five minutes. I've purchased and have on hand about eight pairs ot these filters for future use.

    Still, I'm wondering the consequence of simply removing the cabin filters from the vehicle. I mean, if I did remove them, would I die, become incapacitated in some horrible manner, have to cope with the occasional vicious fly, bug, or man-eating mosquito inside my vehicle, or what?

    Vehicle manufacturers have a tendency to insist that we simply must not do without these filters, and of course they make a very handsome profit selling us these paper things. Nonetheless, we older folks have lived and drove for many miles, many years, without paper filters in our vehicles. Thus, I'm inclined to think that simply removing the cabin filters entirely would not prove detrimental in the least.

    Thoughts pro and con are invited.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    Well, it would be hard to argue that removing the cabin filter will shorten your life, particularly for someone past a certain age. But I just changed my cabin filter. Did I want to breath the stuff I saw trapped on the filter? No thank you.

    Bottom line, the filter isn't expensive (if bought smart), nor does it take more than a few minutes to change. That seems like a small price to pay to breath cleaner air.
  • extech2extech2 Member Posts: 120
    We had cars without cabin air filters for the last 90 years or longer and no one died from the lack of this device. It's like going for a walk without a gas mask. I'm willing to bet $ 100 that one could prepare two identical cars, one with a new filter and another without, and 10 out of 10 people couldn't tell the difference. I think it's a gimmick right there with the engine flush and the power steering flush.
  • sr146260211sr146260211 Member Posts: 55
    I completely agree with extech2 on this one.... ;)
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    I wouldn't doubt one bit that most people might not tell the difference between the two cars. But that's not the same as saying there is no difference. And I doubt if taking out your home furnace filter will kill anyone, either.

    As for being the same as going for a walk without a mask, I'll agree with you when I take my walks at 75 mph!
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Some people buy filter media from Ace Hardware and cut and fold it to fit the space where the OEM filter lives. Just a kludge but lots cheaper than most replacement filters.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
    If you own a 2006 – 2010 Honda CR-V and live in the Los Angeles area, please contact ctalati@edmunds.com by August 12 if you’re interested in being contacted for more information on your vehicle ownership experience.

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  • ketech1ketech1 Member Posts: 2
    hello,guys
    i intersted in car pc in HONDA CR-V,anyone knows about this unit? welcome comunicate with each other
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