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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    The code reader (OBD) plug is down by the steering column, where the dash ends. It's by Law where that plug is supposed to be located on a car. It is there, look again :)
  • cisco7cisco7 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2009 CR-V EX, 4 cylinder, with 2300 miles. Almost from the beginning, I have noticed lots of rear noise in the brakes, etc. when backing down inclined driveways. Now that's happening when I back up anywhere. Also, there's a pretty constant rear noise that's hard to describe going forward as well. When I took it in for service, a defective shocks element was discovered; rotor had to be worked on as well. I've driven a Camry for 15 years without anything like this so I don't know whether I'm just not used to what "sounds" a SUV makes or whether I've got more problems than the dealership is owning up to. Help! I need to read up on the Lemon Law in California but I may have a good candidate. Very discouraging to me as I'd always heard what great cars Hondas were and CR-Vs in particular. If anyone can suggest good questions to ask the service department concerning this, I would greatly appreciate it. I'm currently waiting on the parts to arrive for the shocks repair.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    it maybe due to you filled gas with the engine running.
    The light will go away later. Don't do the above and it shouldn't come back again.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    While it's frustrating to have anything go wrong with a new car, you don't have a Lemon Law case unless the dealer is unable to fix the problem. Give them a chance.

    You don't say whether your CR-V is a 4-WD model. What you think is rear brake noise may be rear differential noise.

    If after your car is serviced by the dealer, and assuming you aren't satisfied with the results, talk to the service manager, ask to take a test drive in a brand new model to see how its noise compares with your car. If there's a problem, Honda will probably make it right. Good luck.
  • ultra2004ultra2004 Member Posts: 11
    The passenger window in my 2005 CR-V stopped working a while ago. It keeps the window close, but I can't make it open from any switch. At night after I turn on the head lights, I noticed the lights would dim a little bit when I press the switch to operate any other window, except the passenger window. I thought it was the power regulator. I bought an after-market window regulator, and found it didn't work neither. It seems like it is something else broken. When troubleshooting a power window, what are other places I can look into? I checked the fuse, and it doesn't look like it has blowed up.

    Thanks.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I filled my tank last week and drove about 30 miles home where I smelt gas and my malfunction light came on. I removed my fuel cap and made sure it was on tight. I couldn't find any signs of fuel leaks in the engine compartment or fuel tank area. I have driven approx. 400 miles and the light's still on and my fuel milage has dropped a bunch. I have a code reader, but cannot find the plug to connect it. Has anyone any suggestions on this problem or where the code reader plugs into.
    Thanks!

    The OBD II plug on the 1997-2001 may have been installed on the passenger side of the center console. Check with the OWNER's MANUAL.

    If, when filling, the pump is forced to go past the first shut off point, the flue will flood the evaporative emissions canister (aka charcoal canister). It's job is to collect fuel vapors when the vehicle is just sitting and is building up pressure in the fuel tank from the heat. Then, when the jey is inserted and turned to the "ON" position, the vapors are introduced to the air-fuel mix to make starting easier. However, constant flooding of the canister will eventually fill it up and cause it to malfunction. Or worse, a valve that is designed to control the fuel vapor flow will be soaked in fuel and fail.

    Check the codes, and if the code is for Evaporative Emissions Control, then it is most likely the canister, and it will need to be replaced.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The passenger window in my 2005 CR-V stopped working a while ago. It keeps the window close, but I can't make it open from any switch. At night after I turn on the head lights, I noticed the lights would dim a little bit when I press the switch to operate any other window, except the passenger window. I thought it was the power regulator. I bought an after-market window regulator, and found it didn't work neither. It seems like it is something else broken. When troubleshooting a power window, what are other places I can look into? I checked the fuse, and it doesn't look like it has blowed up.

    Check the voltage at the offending refulator.

    See if there is any corrosion, or an object preventing the window from moving in its tracks.

    It could be as simple as a failed switch, or broken wire.

    Good luck.

    P.S. If you are going to be doing the work on the car you may want to invest in the official Honda Shop Manual. The order form should be in the back of the OWNER's MANUAL, or online at www.helminc.com They are not cheap, but well worth their weight in gold and saved time.
  • carattorneycarattorney Member Posts: 62
    I read your question and the replies.
    There is apparently a lot of confusion on the issue of Honda Oil changes.
    I just got a 2009 FIT.
    The manual states that you should not get a first oil change until the indicator tells you to. The manual also states seperately that the oil change indicator will tell you when to get an oil change--that it determines that based on the type of driving that you are doing.

    I know that the common thought is that you get an oil change every 3K mile or so, but why would Honda write in 2 places in their manual that you should wait till the indicator tells you to if they did not mean it?

    Honda's reputation is built on reliabilty and longevity, not replacing engines and cars prematurely. Plus the adverse publicity and harm to reputation and fines for misrepresenting oil change intervals could serverly harm the company. What would they have to gain? If anything--they should tell you have oil changes every 3K miles at the dealer to support their dealer network but they do not.

    Anyone else have any comments on this topic?
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    No need to add much to what you said. But when it comes to oil changes, the belief that what was true 30 years ago will forever remain true is, apparently, a hard belief to change.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Not too hard for me. I change the oils based on the indicator.

    Regards,
    OW
  • wwkdeswwkdes Member Posts: 1
    I am also noticing my Honda CRV (2007) is also similar noises in the rear bakres. Noises are noticeable when backing up and making slow sharp turns.

    Curious how was it costs when you had it fixed? I am dreading this.
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    What you describe are symptoms that call for a rear differential service covered under warranty. Honda issued a TSB for the problem. They will change the fluid and refurbish the differential gears.

    Call you dealer and describe the noises you hear.
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    What some folks think is the rear differental may just be the stability contorl applying the rear brakes. In a tight turn, the outside wheels and in particular the front outside wheel turns much faster than the inside wheels. Therefore the stability control may see this as the rear of the vehcile sliding and hterefore applys the brake to the inside rear wheel to correct.

    Try taking het same turn with eth VSA turned off and see if you still hear hte same sound.

    I have a brand new '09 and heard a similar noise but it wasn't present with the VSA turned off. I'm have a better feel for how the VSA respondds and the noises it makes thsi winter.
  • terrysmark7terrysmark7 Member Posts: 2
    There are times when the clutch pedal squeaks. -When I step on the clutch pedal to shift from first to second and/or second to ...when it is cool outside it is worse
  • terrysmark7terrysmark7 Member Posts: 2
    tilt wheel problems with honda CR-V, lever won't lock the wheel and it moves while driving
  • ultra2004ultra2004 Member Posts: 11

    Check the voltage at the offending refulator.

    See if there is any corrosion, or an object preventing the window from moving in its tracks.

    It could be as simple as a failed switch, or broken wire.


    Thanks, blueiedgod. You are pointing at the right direct. Finally I got a chance to get a voltage meter and found the wire to the regulator doesn't have any voltage at all.

    Next step I will check the wire, but it seems it is hard to follow the wires. I will try. If anyone has any good hints on how to make checking the wires easier, I would love to hear your advice. Thanks
  • roger821roger821 Member Posts: 6
    Hi guys...

    I have been puzzled about what happened to my 97 CR-V. I was driving, everything was running perfectly, and then suddenly the engine just died. Boom, just like that. No noises, no other indications of any problems. It just stopped, as if I turned off the ignition. I had to tow it back to my house, where it's been sitting for a while now.

    I don't have a lot of money, but I need to get it fixed. Obviously one of the causes could have been the fuel pump dying. My battery's now dead, but at the time it was fine. The engine turned when I tried to start it but it otherwise just didn't start. What other reasons could have caused the car to die?

    Whatever you guys can tell me will help me decide if I fix it, or junk it. Thanks in advance for your help here.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Start troubleshooting.

    Has the ignition switch recall been performed?

    Are there any outstanding recalls?

    The frist two can be easily asnwered by logging into Honda Owners link on www.honda.com Just have the VIN handy.

    If you get nowhere there.

    Check fuel pressure.

    Is the fuel pump on (you should hear it make noise for 30 seconds or so when you first turn on the ignition.

    Is fule filter clean?

    Is there spark?

    Is distributor working?

    Are contacts worn out?

    Are wires intact?

    Is the ignition coil producing the voltage needed for th spark...

    you don't have to have a lot of money to do the trouble shooting your self. For an engine to run you need Air, Fuel and Spark, all in the right proportions and correct times. Get your self a Helms Honda Shop manual and work from there. Once you isolate the problem, replace the offending part, rather than just throwing parts at it.

    Good luck.
  • roger821roger821 Member Posts: 6
    Blue,

    Thanks for the input. I got the ignition switch replaced in 2002, right after the recall was announced. Funny thing is, the car behaved just like what the recall indicated - the car just cut out in the middle of traffic, no warning. Only thing was, it never started up again. The recall said the ignition switch outages could be erratic and unpredictable. So we'll see what happens.

    First thing, I need to get a new battery in it. Then, I can do the troubleshooting you described. Problem is I don't have the tools I once had that I could use to fix this myself (my tools were stolen in a burglary). I can do the basic troubleshooting, but if I had to R&R the fuel tank to get to the fuel pump, then I'm screwed.

    And, just for your reference, I have the official Honda shop manual for this model year.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    roger821-

    first the battery you can get from Autozone, their Duralast batteries are now made by Johnson Controls. Same people who make Honda's batteries, same insides too. But for a lower price, gotta love that. (Honda dealer's are always overpriced). Just make sure to load test the new battery before you install it. To make sure it's not a dud. never know could happen, better to test before.

    Ever think that the ignition switch IS the problem? Just because it was recalled, doesn't mean the new one wouldn't die the same way. Your thoughts/instincts are correct that it acted just like the recall, definitely listen to them, that's probably where you should start first. Since you have the service manual, then you can use that to diagnose with a multimeter the ignition switch. A multimeter, if you don't have one, is like $3.99 at harbor freight.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Hello: About a month ago I was rear-ended and had the back door replaced by a body shop. Now the door open indicator and trunk light flicker when going over bumps. Rather than going back to the body shop I would like to replace the switch myself - I have seen the service bulletins addressing the issue. How hard is the switch to get to?
  • bdymentbdyment Member Posts: 573
    Perhaps the door needs adjusting. It may not be closing tightly enough and not making proper contact with the switch. Check this out before investigating the switch itself.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    I experienced timing belt broken and engine died right away. Did you check is that a belt or chain?
  • natashaquenatashaque Member Posts: 2
    I was having the same problem. And I noticed that the screws in the door latch were loose. I could never get them to stay tight. I would have to tighten them about every 2 or 3 weeks.

    I had the CRV for 8 months and sold it last night - too many problems.
  • deasy12deasy12 Member Posts: 1
    I waited... and waited until my 1st oil change - relying on the indicater, and trusting the dealership recommendation.
    When it was finally time for the oil change, I did not have it changed at the dealership, I had it done closer to home.

    Question: Is the indicator system/light still accurate at this point or would the dealer have changed it now that the factory-oil is gone?

    After years of 3000 miles then 5000 miles for each change - I am anxious!
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Make sure you reset the indicator to read 100% oil life. The indicator will then count down to the next oil change.

    The reset procedure is in the manual.

    Regards,
    OW
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    Actually a couple owners with the oil life indicator never had it come on. They had gone about 10-12,000 miles until the dealer was called upon and found that the indicator was defective. lol Not that I'm trying to laugh too hard.

    But if you're anxious and don't want to wait, why should you have to? There is nothing or anyone holding a gun to your head forcing you to wait. You want to change your oil at 5000 miles, then change it.

    When did people become controlled by a computer? IT's JUST OIL PEOPLE! If it makes you happy, change it early! :)
  • larrdanlarrdan Member Posts: 2
    I have not been able to remove the rear left and right head restraints..The center one has the button you press, the other two in the rear do not....I need to install new seat covers and have to remove the head restaints to accomplish...Has anyone an answer to my dilemma...
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have not been able to remove the rear left and right head restraints..The center one has the button you press, the other two in the rear do not....I need to install new seat covers and have to remove the head restaints to accomplish...Has anyone an answer to my dilemma...

    I think the bigger question is whether the seat covers are side air bag friendly. If the seat covers are not desined to accomodate the exploding side airbags, which are mounted on the side of the seatback, then you are just asking for trouble, big trouble!!!

    I don't have the 2010 OWNER's MANUAL, but, I highly doubt that it does not say how to remove the headrests. How else are you going to line up the seats for the bed feature?
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Manual pic posted here.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Sorry to hear you had so many issues. Rather unusual for a Honda. All screws are tight and the door is closing tightly as well. When I jiggle the switch the light flickers. I have a new switch and will see what happens. An $8.00 experiment is not too bad.
  • canyon711canyon711 Member Posts: 8
    I had the timing belt and water pump changed because of the 7 year recommendation for my 2000 CRV.Other belts were done also. I noticed today that when I slow down to 20mph that it feels like something is holding it back from slowing down almost like car is braking. No problem :( going from low acceleration to high but there is definetly something different about it when I reduce speed. Mechanic says bring it in tomorrow and he will test drive it. I know if he does he will see what I am talking about. I didn't notice it last week after I picked up car and next day, not till today. Any ideas what this could be?
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Transmission?
  • canyon711canyon711 Member Posts: 8
    Well, it didn't do today. I took it in and he said that it takes time for the computer to reset or something like that. He said up to 500 miles sometimes. I don't know but not a problem today. He is AAA approved, been in business for over 30 years and has a good reputation so I will just wait and see. Thanks.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    Most modern cars, honda and toyota mostly have this. The transmission is "smart" in the sense that it learns how you drive and adapts. Usually even the engine computer will have a base setting it starts from when the battery is disconnected. It learns how you drive to optimize it's fuel delivery. The auto transmission is the same way. It usually takes about 200miles of driving for it to learn. 500 miles is being conservative. but yes, that is true it does learn. Give it some miles then see how it acts.. don't you just love computers? lol :shades:
  • redballoonredballoon Member Posts: 2
    Hi. Recently I've noticed a grinding noise when I press the accelerator usually when the car has been turned off for awhile. Also, the steering wheel shakes a bit when I make a sharp turn or reverse. I thought it was the wheel bearing or a cracked rotor because the car fell on the rotor when I was changing a tire once but I went to the dealership and they said the rotor looked fine. Also the grinding noise and the shaking I'm pretty sure happened before then. Any ideas or suggestions would be great. Thanks.
  • illcarillcar Member Posts: 5
    Hi,

    My 2008 CRV had been in a minor accident, and I need to get it repaired. I found the following website which lists recognized Honda body shops:
    http://bodyshops.honda.com/

    To my surprise, the listing in my area do not include a single dealership (although I know of a couple of dealerships who have their own body shops).

    I am wondering if I am better off going to a dealership or one of the shops listed on this site. Any idea? TIA.
  • rcrossrcross Member Posts: 2
    Just bought from Honda dealer. 61k miles. Found water in cylinder 1. Also water-not coolant- on spark plug. It goes back tomorrow under 60 day warranty. After reading these other CR-V nightmares, I'm ready to get rid of it for another Civic.
  • mark19mark19 Member Posts: 123
    finding a good body shop is always tough to do. Here's my experience with my Honda. I remember that I had a really bad body shop that was dealer owned repaint mine after an accident (debris on the road smashed up the front end). That paint ended up being chipped and falling off because they just painted OVER the old paint! Another time, one other dealer owned body shop who was replacing a windshield, didn't care to PAINT in the a-pillar, which caused the windshield to seperate! I took it to an independent shop and they fixed it correctly.

    I looked at the link you gave, and most of the ones it's recommending around me are kind of scary. Seemed more like MAACO-type lower quality places that rush you in, rush you out and well you can imagine those results!

    So my take? I don't think the dealer-owned bodyshops are that great at all. They are high-priced and the ones at least in my area do subpar work. Try and find a shop where Corvette owners go, because it's not easy painting fiberglass! I am not a GM supporter, just saying that most classic car people want custom paint jobs and they will not accept a cheap job. Those places are the ones that you could believe know how to match paint colors and do an excellent job.

    Ask the local Corvette club who some of the bodyshops they recommend are. You'd be surprised you probably never heard of them! :)
  • canyon711canyon711 Member Posts: 8
    The light on the dashboard that shows if the rear lift window is down is on frequently even thought everything is closed. Any suggestions on how to correct this. Is there some connection that I can check. Everything seems tight. It is a 2000CRV, Thanks :(
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    The light on the dashboard that shows if the rear lift window is down is on frequently even thought everything is closed. Any suggestions on how to correct this. Is there some connection that I can check. Everything seems tight. It is a 2000CRV, Thanks

    There is a switch in the latch. It is either broken or corroded. Could be wires too.
  • cannell3cannell3 Member Posts: 45
    I am looking to replace the tires on my daughter's 2007 Cr-v EX. My SAM'S club is out of stock, and cannot get them in for awhile. I found the Michelin Latitude tires on Discount Tire; they supposedly have access to them; I guess that I will need to check with my local dealer to make sure. Anyway, I noticed online that DT wants to sell me a $40.00 TPMS repair / replacement kit along with the tires and installations. Is replacing the TPMS parts this soon in the game (only 36k miles on the car)? Has anyone out there already done this? Thanks in advance.
  • canyon711canyon711 Member Posts: 8
    Absolutely amazing, thanks for the info. I thought he was just shining me on. My experience with mechanics personally has not been bad but somewhere in the back of my mind I still tend to think they are cheating me because I am a woman. But then I knew more about cars than my husband which is why I has so many experiences with mechanics. :)
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    I've owned a 2010 CR-V for a couple of weeks now. The manual specifies 0W-20 oil to be used. As far as I know - I've only seen it available in full synthetic. Walmart doesn't even carry it here. I'm wondering how big a pain its going to be for me to find this stuff when I do my own oil changes??

    Regards:
    Oldengineer
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Good luck with your new CR-V...widh you maky miles of safe and happy driving!

    AutoZone and PepBoys carriy Mobile1 OW-20. No problem.

    Regards,
    OW
  • toomerboomertoomerboomer Member Posts: 3
    Sorry posted in wrong section earlier:
    Hi guys, have CRV for a week now. Went on long drive, turned on heater, vents set to floor and face, noticed hot air blowing to floor and cold air blowing to face, it was very uncomfortable for me. Took to dealer, the service rep gave physics class and explains cold air comes down and hot air rises so it would "mix" well.

    Sounds logical. But I dont buy it, because it is very uncomfortable. The floor got very warm and hands and face was chill. Apparently its as designed and couple other customers complained. Am I one the very few that disagree with Honda's physics? :mad: Would really appreciate your thoughts.
  • bigdadi118bigdadi118 Member Posts: 1,207
    Honda basically tells you to dress as (1) face-mask, (2) gloves, (3) heavy jackets AND (4) shorts, before getting into your HONDA.

    Physics 101 - design something in Common Sense or no customer.
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    Thanks, OW, No pepboys in our state, but, Advance Auto's website indicates that they carry the Mobil. I like Castrol better, but, nobody here carries their synthetic yet in the 0W-20. I really like the CR-V - just hope its fuel economy improves. Which brand of oil filters do you use on yours?

    Regards:
    OldCEM
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I suppose that means it will start raining in your car when these two 'fronts' meet somewhere around the headrests? :P

    I would go to the dealers and test out a similar car on the parking lot. This does not sound right.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Well, the FE never improved. 20 -21 around town and up to 27 straight highway. Tank to tank I usually get 22 for my mix of driving.

    I use Fram but last change they had a discount on a Mobile1 filter so I went for it.

    Regards,
    OW
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