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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    figured it out after much...trying to figure it out....

    Actually it is simple. You stick a very small screwdriver in the slot (which faces the window so it needs to be small), push the screwdriver in then at the same time turn the visor clip counter clockwise a half turn or so - comes right out. To put the new one in just insert and turn clockwise - simple. The part is 3.50 cents.
  • mondaynmondayn Member Posts: 1
    Did you ever find a solution to this? Our 2005 CR-V just started the same thing. We did a four tire alignment, rotated and balanced the tires and the problem is still there. The car has about 90k on it and the shaking just started from one day to the next. Not sure what to do now?
  • baydrivebaydrive Member Posts: 48
    I am used to getting my oil changed every 3,000 miles or so. I was told to just go by the maintenance reminder on the digital readout for my 2010 CR-V. I now have 5500 miles on the car and the readout says that I have 50% oil life left. Can that be possible? Should I get the oil changed anyway? In the owners manual it does not list any mileage requirement for oil changes (or time period requirement)......just tells you to get it changed when the minder says there is 10% life left. I am very nervous about this. Could it be possible that the CR-V only needs the oil changed every 10,000 miles no matter what the driving condition? Also, the standard rule of thumb was every to change oil every 3,000 miles or 3 months......is there no time period for the oil in the CR-V, or does the maintenance reminder factor that into the readout?

    Thanks for any feedback you can give me.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    The 3,000 mile "standard" died out a decade or two ago. I'd go by the owner's manual.

    The 3,000 Mile Oil Change Myth – Save Your Money (MoneyBlueBook)
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Previous poster correct - 3,000 mile changes are a thing of the past. Minimum is now about 5,000. Sooner will not hurt if you are paranoid but a waste of time, money, and natural resources.

    With my 98 Odyssey and now 04 CRV both with over 130K miles, I've used synthetic oil, Honda filters, and gone 8-10K miles between changes. Engines run like a top.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    I changed my oil on 11/28/09 @ 17,279 miles and reset the minder ('08 CR-V EX). I just changed the oil Saturday, March 27th with 15% life left @ 20,613 miles. That's 4 months but only 3,334 miles. The last one before this was 10,000 miles on the oil life and 5 months but it was predominantly hwy miles while the current stretch was mostly local. I could have waited until 0% on the minder.

    Regards,
    OW
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    How would I test for that? I did have the wheel jacked up and turned slowly by hand. I felt a bit of a "catch" several times per rotation of the wheel at regular intervals. Or is that a normal clutch resistance because the other wheel was still on the ground?
  • kenneth813kenneth813 Member Posts: 38
    My 08 CRV has around 25k miles and reminder shows 30% left, I am going to make an appointment for the service once it down to 15%.
    My question is should I just go to the dealer and do the oil change (I still got two free oil change coupon) or do whatever they recommend for the mile I have right now? I remember last time around 16k when I had the second oil change, they print out a long list and told me that was the service for my car and it would cost me $3xx. I almost agree with them but my wife stop me and said the car only 1 1/2 year old and it was unnecessary, so I only did the free oil change and left. Now my car is over two years old and 25k, I only had two oil change and tire rotate before since it was new, I want to know what service I am expect for this time and how much it will cost me. Thank you
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Your service needs are in the manual.

    R.T.F.M. :)

    Regards,
    OW
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If you got a lot of play when you wiggle the wheel at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock that might tell you something.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Your service needs are in the manual.

    That's great advice - for people who have a manual. :P

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • kenneth813kenneth813 Member Posts: 38
    Yes, I have a manual and I read it. I just wondering are you mean if the dealer recommend anything which is not list in the manual, I am not suppose to take it and pay it?
    Also the driver's side door lock has a wired sound when I use the central lock to unlock it, but it only happen once a while and it sounds like you scratch your nail on the chalkboard. My car still under warranty, if I ask the dealer check it and fix it, are they going to charge me or the warranty cover it for free?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    edited April 2010
    the dealer *usually* won't replace anything that isn't conspicuously defective, since he won't be paid for it by the factory. It may get kicked back to him, in other words. But sure, he could take that chance for you, if he's seen this type of thing before and has a pretty good idea of what it is.

    VISITING HOST
  • nicompnicomp Member Posts: 21
    edited April 2010
    2000 CR-V, IP lights went out, the fuse was blown. I replaced the 7.5A fuse, it blew again almost immediately. Radio still works, no other noticeable problems. Help?

    Thanks,

    Bill
    Cincinnati, OH USA
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    2000 CR-V, IP lights went out, the fuse was blown. I replaced the 7.5A fuse, it blew again almost immediately. Radio still works, no other noticeable problems. Help?

    Thanks,

    Bill
    Cincinnati, OH USA

    Is it aftermarket radio? Was it properly installed?
  • propwash49propwash49 Member Posts: 38
    It could be a short due to a chafing wire. I had the same thing once, and after literally hours and hours of troubleshooting we found where the wire that supplies power to the light in the console (the PRNDL light that shows which gear is selected), was rubbing on a piece of sheet metal. After a few years, the insulation finally wore off and it started shorting out and blowing the fuse. Sometimes the fuse would blow immediately and sometimes it would take a while for it to blow again. You will probably need to trace all the circuits that are supplied through that particular fuse. It could be the lights in the gauge cluster itself, the lights to the HVAC control panel. or whatever else is on that particular circuit. It can be a tough problem to diagnose. Good luck.
  • janice18janice18 Member Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    Please help. Here's my history.

    I have a 2003 Honda CRV with 77,000 miles. The check engine light first came on in May 2008 and was intermittent. I do not know what the code was. I was told to replace gas cap which I did. and light went off for a while. Later, it began coming back on and going off intermittently. Frequently, it came back on when I got gas and I DO NOT TOP OFF. Car ran fine the whole time.

    Car was fully maintenenced in August 2009. The check engine light had been off at that time for a while and no problem was detected by car dealer - Scott Honda, West Chester, PA. Frankly, I forgot to mention it to them.

    The check engine light came back on fall/winter 2009 and stayed on.

    I had the car fully maintenanced (75,000 mile regular maintenance) again in Feb 2010. They ran diagnostic test for check engine light problem and replaced O2 sensor in front and I paid $511 to correct this problem. The Codes were P1166 and P0134.

    Less than 3 months after the $511 repair job, I got gas last night and the light came back on. I am not happy with Scott and wonder if I should end my long time relationship with them (I have bought 3 new cars there and have NEVER gone anywhere else for maintenance).

    Please help. How can this problem be permanently fixed?

    Janice
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    Less than 3 months after the $511 repair job, I got gas last night and the light came back on. I am not happy with Scott and wonder if I should end my long time relationship with them (I have bought 3 new cars there and have NEVER gone anywhere else for maintenance).

    Please help. How can this problem be permanently fixed?

    Janice

    What is the code this time?

    CEL can be set off by different things, including bad gas cap. No one can guess what is wrong with it, unless you read the code. If it is O2 sensor, it will be under warranty, still. However, CEL is not an absolute answer, a code for bad secondary O2 sensor may be caused by a faulty catalytic converter. It takes someone who knows what they are doing to properly diagnose a problem.

    Read the code and then go from there.
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    I had heard this popular dealer pitch before, but it kind of caught me by surprise coming from the Honda dealer I frequent. They are very reasonable about up-selling or pushing stuff, even don't charge me for inspections during the regular oil changes (the 5K service). But last time they suggested strongly a power steering fluid flush. I politely declined. I don't think the Manual even mentions it.
    What say you?
  • lzclzc Member Posts: 483
    With auto sales down, I guess trying to up-sell the service customer is to be expected. I don't like it. It's become worse since many dealers now try to compete on price with quick-change oil shops. I wish they wouldn't. I'd prefer to pay more for better service and skip the up-sell pressure.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    Depending on how many miles you have, logic says it's not a bad idea to swap out the fluid. If you are inclined, what I did was simply use my fluid extractor thing (same on I used to pump IN the Dual pump fluid into the rear diff) and I sucked out the old fluid from the reservoir and refilled it with fresh fluid. Did at 100K miles just for the heck of it. Took 5 min. Understanding that the system holds more that what's in the reservoir, I should do it again for a more complete exchange.

    If you don't do it, I would not loose sleep, I'm just a geek.
  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    you can suck the fluid out of the reservouir with a turkey baster, and replace with geniuine Honda/Acura power steering fluid. Do it every year and you will never have to "flush" as you will always have mostly fresh fluid in there. Same applied to the transmission and differential fluids. I just replace them once a year.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Thanks for the info. I took back to the dealership and had them change the fluid for PM. The noise is still there and they stay with their original diagnosis of rust on the backing plates. Rather than spending an arm and leg to have the entire bearing/hub assembly pulled apart I will clean and grease the plates where needed and see what happens. It may be that the plate was bent slightly when driving through some deep snow.
  • sky23213sky23213 Member Posts: 300
    Thank You all!
    Looks like a small maintenance project, which I like a lot. There are hardly any things on cars today one can do.
    Thanks again!
  • alternativealternative Member Posts: 2
    Hi,

    My Honda CRV 98 is making a low pitch noise coming from the front bonnet whenever I turn the wheels. The noise sounds like a steel pipe with sand in it. If I make a left turn and the noise appears, then a subsequent right turn will make the noise appear again, but not if the subsequent turn is to the left. I call it "tilting pipe noise" because it behaves like one.

    Does anyone know whats wrong with my car?
  • karolyn2karolyn2 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Honda CRV and the SRS light came on and will not go off. I don't have warranty on my Honda anymore. If I take it to a Honda Dealership, how much it would cost me if it is the same problem?
  • shadetree725shadetree725 Member Posts: 6
    What you are hearing may be coming from the rear differential. It it is, you should drain and refill the dual pump fluid. I experienced the same thing and at first thought it was coming from the front. I only had to change the fluid once but have heard of others that had to do it twice to completely stop the noise.
  • flame5287flame5287 Member Posts: 1
    edited May 2010
    MY KEY WOULD NOT COME OUT OF THE IGNITION AFTER TURNING IT OFF. STARTED THE CAR A FEW TIMES AND FINALLY KEY CAME OUT. REPLACED BATTERY IN KEY AND USED SECOND KEY. IT HAPPEN AGAIN. DISCONNECTED NEGATIVE CABLE ON BATTERY KEY CAME OUT. NOT SURE WHAT THE PROBLEM IS. I ALSO CHARGED THE BATTERY. SO FAR HAS NOT HAPPEN AGAIN.
  • circlewcirclew Member Posts: 8,666
    Turn the steering wheel back and forth as far as it can dgo while turning the key. It should come out. Happens all the time with this CR-V.

    Regards,
    OW
  • alternativealternative Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for the info!
  • bobintampabobintampa Member Posts: 10
    I had given our 2005 CRV to our daughter a while back with one broken glove box hinge (i remember breaking one a few years back prob when i first changed the in-cabin air filters) and she just informed me the other side broke. I looked on the web for replacements and didn't have any luck.
    Does anyone know where I could find these, my fallback I guess is to call a dealer.
    Thanks in advance!

    Bob
  • shadetree725shadetree725 Member Posts: 6
    You can try this used auto part web site......http://www.uneedapart.com/
    Good luck!
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    I have a 1997 CRV that the drivers window motor is going bad. The window goes down fine but back up the motor appears to bind, I assume the worm gear binds in the motor housing when raising the window. I can move the window slightly and it appears to be free. I have removed the interior pieces and it seems the whole assembly must be removed. The motor seem like it can not be replaced unless the gears and arms are removed from the door. Does anyone have a manual that shows how this is done. How do you disconnect the track on the bottom of the window? I see to bolts at the end of the track that may mount it to a bar that is attached to the window. If I get the parts from a junk yard I will not have any power available to move the window. The passenger side is not much better. I help would be greatly appreciated
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    I would not waste money on a junk yard motor. I have had my window come off track twice,(97 crv) the first time i took to a shop that got track clips for window from dealer, those parts were expensive, about 75 for 2 little clips and honda 2 part glue, total about 200 with labor. The second time i was living in a part of country where there are many mobile specialists in power windows, a guy came to my house and used generic clips, 75 dollars total cost(service call was 75, clips and glue free), so if you have those kind of guys available, call and ask how much for new motor installed at your location, and if he has a shop may be even cheaper at his location. These guys can work on these items way cheaper than any mechanic, these guys specialize in windows and electric locks, and can make generic parts work where a mechanic will only buy parts from a honda dealer, as he may not be familiar with making a generic part work or even have a source to buy from.
  • newowner10newowner10 Member Posts: 227
    I looked on line and the motor/regulators are cheap. I will buy a new one. I figured it would be a $200 parts they run $75. I did find some directions on-line. I figured the motor could be replaced without removing the window and the regulator. I need to remove the window and the regulator it appears. The instruction mention scribing different things to get them back into position. The ins ructions mention about marking the motor pinion so the motor can be reinstalled in the same place. I do not know what position the new motor will be in when I receive it. Possibly there will be directions with the new parts.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    What's a good tire to put on a '02 CRV-EX? I had Yokohama Avid TRZ on before and had a bit of noise with them - overall good handling. The tire shop was pretty quick to want to replace them with the Cooper CS4. Not happy at all with them. They pull all over the road and have very poor handling at highway speeds. I am at the point after 500 miles to have them take them back off. Any suggestions for a good all season tire?
  • shadetree725shadetree725 Member Posts: 6
    I have a '05 CRV and use to run the Avid TRZ's. I wasn't happy with them either. Now I run the Goodyear Assurance tires. They are quiet as compaired to the TRZ and they wear much better.
  • tomk17tomk17 Member Posts: 135
    I have an 04 and had good luck with a set of Michelin X-One's (from BJ's Wholesale Club), got 70K miles. Currently running Pirelli P4 Four Seasons got thru Discount Tire for about $85 each. I've always run 215-70-15's which is 1 size more wide than the stock 205's which are way undersize. Seems more stable and look better too. Circumference difference is minimal so if I ever had to put the 205 spare on for a short distance, the AWD most likely would not think the delta was wheel slip.
  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    Thanks for the into. I am considering the Pirelli P4 but last time I checked, the dealer said they were on a national backorder. Wonder if that's their way of saying their suppliers don't carry that line? Liked the Yoko Avid TRZ but only had 16K miles on them when the shop had me get rid of them. Wish I hadn't based on comparing handling with the Coopers.
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 236,826
    If price isn't a big concern, and you can find a nearby dealer, then I recommend Nokian WR.. They are the only all-season tire that is actually rated for winter driving...

    So, you'd think you would give up some handling.... but, no.. in the 205/70-15 size, they are H-rated, and actually handle better than just about any other tire in that size...

    I put 29K on mine, before I sold it... I would extrapolate about 50K total wear.. I paid just over $500 for a set on the car... and, that was in 2006, so they are definitely not cheap... But, for handling and traction, they were fantastic, and the snow performance was amazing for an all-season tire...

    If you don't have winter weather, they may not be worth the cost... Go to Nokian.com for info and dealer information...

    regards,
    kyfdx

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  • fussycrvownerfussycrvowner Member Posts: 179
    There are dealers with websites you can order them. Sometimes it is cheaper than ordering the part in person. One I used to use was www.slhondaparts.com, unfortunately the site is no longer around.
  • crvdude1crvdude1 Member Posts: 47
    Try http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/auto/jsp/mws/PartsSearch.jsp
  • frank261frank261 Member Posts: 1
    Hello all... I recently brought my 2009 CR-V to a local, well-respected Honda-authourized service center for the routine 10,000 mile oil change, etc, and was told that the air cleaner element had to be replaced due to what looked like some sort of nest, possibly by a mouse, being built in the housing. The air cleaner element housing looks like a closed system to me...maybe I am missing something? Is this a possibility? Or was I scammed...cuz if I was... :mad:

    Thanks in advance
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    These filters are replaceable, yes. Seems unlikely they would concoct such a fanciful story to get $25--$30 bucks out of you. Of course, in hindsight you are perfectly entitled to ask to see *any* part they replace on your car.
  • motoguy128motoguy128 Member Posts: 146
    It's amazing how small of a hole those little critter can fit into. They can also chew their way in through plastic.

    Most likely the mouse climbed in through one of the floor vents. So the question is, how did he get inside the car in the first place? Good question.
  • barryzbarryz Member Posts: 43
    I assume you are not talking about the air filter, but the box it sits in. Can't you just disassemble it, clean it, and put it back? Perhaps the part is cheaper to replace than to spend labor time disassembling, cleaning, and reassembling, since labor is expensive. I used to work at a honda dealer, every now and then on the used car lot i would see this problem, it was always on a used honda, never saw it on another manufacturers car, maybe that's a coincidence or maybe it's easier for a mouse to get in tyhe intake on a honda, i don't know. About half the used cars were not honda's, so it would seem i should have seen this there also, maybe there is a problem in this regards with honda.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited July 2010
    Interesting. Is there a known method to disable the seat belt chime on the 04 to 06 CRV's?

    I have a long driveway that is always gated, so it is a nuisance either doing up and undoing the belts, or having to listen to the chime reminder every 30 seconds until we are finished with the gates.

    For what it is worth I totally 'get' why one would want to be able to control their car's functions to the max.

    Another example of automation that can cause us grief is: In the winter, and your wipers are frozen to the windshield, you get in, if u don't make sure wipers are off or if u inadvertently hit them on with your bulky winter jacket, as soon as u start car, they will try to activate, and strains the motor and relay breaker. And it is a bigger issue because on these very cars the defroster actually doesn't direct heat low enough on the windshield. Another of my pet peeves on the CRV.

    So if we had could manually deactivate the automation in wiper use when ever we chose to do so, it would be great! That is one of the problems with modern cars. The manufacturers are trying to idiot-proof the entire world.

    For what it is also worth, it is a good thing to activate the A/C compressor during the winter as it helps distribute the oil in the compressor and system for lubing. If it is too cold out, it still won't come on though. I believe that is why the mfgrs designed the A/C to come on initially. The systems never worked this way 35 years ago.

    I also prefer having my own recirculate air control. Thank you for that Honda. There are STILL cars which force you to use the MAX A/C mode in order to block off outside air as you get stuck behind an oil burning wonder or on a dirt road, or get stuck following a stinky garbage truck up the highway on a hot day. And by forcing you to choose the MAX A/C mode, they are also assuming you want cold or heater-warmed air blasting out your vents instead of on your cold feet in the winter. It's ridiculous. I was sitting in a 2010 Ford Ranger the other day and they have GONE BACK to this stupid idiotic way to control/restrict your interior comfort. It figures that Ford can go backwards when most of the country is progressing forward.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I totally empathize with your sentiments, Elissa. I have avoided autos with auto climate for that very reason. And here we are in 2010 and they still do that! You get into a luxury car at minus 30 and the heater thinks you want super cooled air blowing all over the place? When it is THAT cold it takes ages for even the best heaters to actually create some modicum of heat, and even 30 minutes before the interior bits have absorbed enough heat that the cabin starts to feel like you can undo your coat. In those times the only air you want 'blowing about widely is maybe on the windshield and even then, fan speed 1 or 2 is plenty.
  • isellhondasisellhondas Member Posts: 20,342
    edited July 2010
    As fussy as I am about maintenence, it dawned on me that I had never changed the cabin air filters on our 2003 CRV with 50,000 miles.

    So, last week when I had it in for an oil change, I had the dealer change the filters.

    MY GOD! You have NO IDEA how disgustingly filthy the old ones were!

    We don't really drive on dusty roads either.

    A word to the wise...change them! We were breathing all of that crap!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Does this work in the same way with CRV's up to 2006? Anyone?
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