Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

1130131132133135

Comments

  • blueiedgodblueiedgod Member Posts: 2,798
    I have bought NGK Irridium spark plugs from Advance Auto for about $7 or $8 a piece.

    Go to NGK site and plug in your car, it will tell you what part number to look for.

    Amazon is another place to get them cheap.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    thanks. After reading your post and checking online I decided to have the dealer do it -seems like a lot of work - with coupons/discounts and parts I was able to get it to about 120 dollars (the total parts were about 40 dollars) so in this case I think it was worth it.

    Unfortunately I just came back from a long trip and the car almost overheated about 600 miles from home. Was able to continue trip, knowing I was not losing any antifreeze - got home no problem and found out that the cooling fan and A/c fan were dead. Over 1000 dollars (non-dealer) but no damage. Absolutely no warning but glad I caught it.

    onward!
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Does any manufacturer still use "break-in" oil?

    The oil I am referring to had what was believed to be metal cutting abilities (although that term cutting probably sounds too harsh) and I think it was used to help engine break-in in reducing hatch marks etc on cylinder walls, thereby allowing a quicker or more tight ring seal for best compression.

    Mfrs used to say (still do on some?) if you swapped out that oil too early you were doing yourselves no favor. I have asked this the odd time in the last few years on car and bike forums and I have gotten all sorts of answers, and they contradict. Any expert opinions here?

    My suspicion is that with today's mfr'ing processes is that they are so precise that this type oil has no purpose any longer.
  • drivettedrivette Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Honda CRV with 120,000 miles. When I start it it will start up with low RPMs like its flooded for about 10 seconds. After that it idles fine. When taking off the car will miss. I have to take off slow or it will miss. When I do get it up to say 65mph it will cruse along fine that it will start missing ( best way to describe it ) when it does this its like it has no power. Then I have to let it decelerate back down to say 40mph before it will accelerate again. Its like the ignition is missing. I didnt change anything yet but made sure there wasnt any loose connections. I had just changed my air filter. I also kinda am thinking the torque converter. What do you guys think?
  • roma007roma007 Member Posts: 39
    In the past week noticed the LCD screen between speedometer and tachometer started showing scrambled data. It would alternate between normal and junk data over a few days.
    Dealer wants 725+tax for replacing the whole instrument cluster. Supposedly the screen is part of a whole unit there.

    Has anyone else had this issue? My car is 2007 with just 35k miles on it. Also, had to replace water pump about three weeks ago. Honda was gracious enough to reimburse that expense even though powertrain warranty expired back in December. I am starting to wonder about the "Hey it is a Honda" reliability claim.

    Regards.
  • pumpkinslingerpumpkinslinger Member Posts: 1
    Have you checked your catalytic converter? I had similar problems on another vehicle and the converter was plugged up.
  • jr1jr1 Member Posts: 9
    How much more maintenance for awd vs fwd vehicle.... with CRV..
    Also, the road noise issue .......anyone drove '12 model and is it quite. Do not believe in inuring ones ears to unnecessary sounds when trying to listen to a radio of had a chat with passengers.
  • mobeemobee Member Posts: 13
    Hey Blue- I just thought I would report back to you. After all the harassing and insulting you did regarding my '03 CRV and my problems - Despite your ultimate wisdom declaring my lawsuit idiotic and wasteful, I received my check recently recovering all of my costs. Mine was combined into the class with others and because of me and others like me CRV owners throughout the US received at least a great portion of the undue expenses caused by Honda's embarrassing handling of the CRV issues.

    Goodbye and good riddance Honda! You will never get my money again.
  • tompartompar Member Posts: 3
    My CR-V has 170K miles and is very well maintained by myself. This fall I've started to have a problem with SLOW ENGINE CRANKING which sounds exactly like a bad battery but it is not. Sometimes I get in a it's a very slow start and once, the cranking slowed to a stop. 10 seconds later, turn key and still slow crank, but then it starts. Has happened when engine hot or cold. Other times it starts right up. Installed new plugs for the heck of it. Don't think it's a coil as runs smooth once running.

    I replaced the battery and have the exact same problem. Alternator good with battery at about 12.6V with engine NOT running and 14.4V with engine running. Had my local mechanic check everything out as well with nothing found. I have checked, removed, and cleaned 3 grounding points on the vehicle as well. Also replaced Neg battery terminal which looked a little ragged. Nothing seems to make a difference.

    Mechanic suggests installing new starter as next action item - any thoughts? Little or nothing pops up on internet regarding this issue.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I have this same issue with mine and it has way fewer miles than yours. New battery seems to make no difference. I was going to suggest to you to replace your neg and positive wires and terminals but sounds like you did the one, but the positive going to the starter is more important as it is a longer run and because of proximity, prone to current-robbing erosion.

    Your post has helped me with a theory on this problem. I think there are three things that compound into a weakness. The battery is too small with minimum CCA's. The wires are too light a gauge, especially for the length run. The starter motor may be too light in design also..all 3 things indicators of cost-cutting. Along with Ford's paint, transmissions, head gaskets etc and Mazda's rust rust rust, GM's no right to still be in business etc, I will not be buying another Honda. Naturally I have other reasons too for leaving Honda behind (like their denial for poor life-span A/C and auto trans, I am also very unimpressed with the brakes. They are too small, and very prone to corrosion and piston binding which doesn't let the pads wear down evenly which shortens their already short life. And the newer Honda's are even cheaper than our generation. I think we got the last of any Honda generation worth buying.

    Anyway, if the weather holds, I hope to remove my starter and confirm connections, going to use a heavier gauge on the positive to the battery. Also plan to maybe split the starter if it looks like it will bolt back together without issue, and confirm brushes are in good shape and touching armature evenly, lube the shaft ends and also the throw-out gear shaft.
    In the meantime, if you are not into maybe doing all that, when starting, at least make sure your lights, rear defogger and fan (and heated seats if you have them) are all off. That helps, as does a battery warmer and block heater if you live in a really cold region.
  • tompartompar Member Posts: 3
    Based on input received, I'm thinking my problem may be a failing starter. Can someone post info on a previous starter replacement cost? I see some dealer costs of $800-850. Yes, Im sure it's a good starter and they know what they are doing but that cost is crazy. My local indy place says $350-400. I'm going to also check a local indy shop (Natick, MA) that deals extensively with Honda's to see their cost. Would feel better with them as I'm sure they have do many of them over the years. Don't care if it's a re-manufactured starter. Get me another 3-4 years and from current 170K miles up to 250K and I will be happy
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I have an 04, now with about 140K. I think I put a starter in about 110K - although in that case I could tell the starter was going - I made an appointment when I noticed slow cranking and the next day it stopped so I needed it towed!

    Anyway, I think I spent about 400 at a local shop and it seems fine.

    The problem I have is probably what you are implying here. I do a lot of my work at the dealership - the higher prices are worth it and I have a good dealer. I would not mind paying 800 dollars if I knew I was going to get the use out of it - Frankly, I am looking to trade in about 30-50K miles (or keep as a beater) maybe 1-2 years and I hate to spend too much. So after about 100K or so, I do some things outside of dealers, just because I don't want to pay higher prices - even though the quality is probably a little better.
  • imtrebleimtreble Member Posts: 1
    Were you able to fix your latch problem? I have same problem w/ my 97 CR-V - can't open door (drivers) from inside! I had been lowering window and reaching out (pain in the crumpet) but now my window is starting to stick!! I thought it was the actuator from posts in forum but i don't know. I think your message is only one like my problem so far!! any info on what problem is and how you fixed it would be greatly appreciated. I cannot afford to have dealer fix unfortunately. thanks
  • tompartompar Member Posts: 3
    Resolution: Starter was bad. Tested and was pulling far more current than it should have. After contacting 2 Honda dealers, they did not have Honda remanufactured starters. New one installed was $1100 at dealer #1 and $1300 dealer #2. I ended up having my local garage, who I trust, install a remanufactured one. He spoke highly of the Remy rebuilt starters and said he would put one in his own car if it was up to him. Got that from another indy garage as well. Cost complete was $530. He could have got a new Honda starter for $800 so the installed price would have been $1000. Worse case, I can install 2 of the rebuilts for the cost of 1 new Honda starter.
  • adelair1adelair1 Member Posts: 2
    Hello guys ,
    I dare request the valuable support of some connoisseurs in automatic transmission especially the Honda CR-V model year 2006 , I live in Algeria where 99% of cars are stick shift ,which means that in case of breakdown; fixing an automatic transmission here is a closed book to most mechanics , finding the right mechanic nationwide to fix an automatic driven car is like gold dust , at a pinch those who can afford it order and replace either a new automatic or manual gear box from France but wait 6 months or 12 months to set it up !

    To which end , I am eager to buy my neighbor's Honda Cr-v year 2006 which shows 50.000 miles only .
    See , this is gonna be a high stake deal although for I am positive Honda engine is a very sturdy & reliable as I own a civic since 6 years and no troubles at all aside from replacing brake pads , battery , tires , I am rather worried to death about the lifetime of the automatic transmission albeit I am rigorous with oil change...

    Bottom line , I am craving to break my saving box to have have this neat gray CR-V and plan to keep it until 200 k miles yet people around me say I am going to throw my money down the drain or sign my own death contract , to make matters worse Honda left Algeria since 4 years now .

    Thus , your feedback ladies & Gents would be very welcome and decisive as I am on the fence right now .

    Much appreciated .

    Sincerely

    Adel TOUHAMI ,
    Annaba / ALGERIA .
    tel : +213 661 260 574
  • californiagalcaliforniagal Member Posts: 10
    You have nothing to worry about. As long as you change the transmission fluid every 15,000 miles the car will not likely to have problems. I have a 2006 automatic and have no problems with the transmission. Do have the valves adjusted every 30,000 miles as Hondas tend to have valve problems.
  • californiagalcaliforniagal Member Posts: 10
    I have the same problem. It happens when the ignition key is not turned fast enough. To eliminate the problem just turn the key quickly to start the engine and you wont have any more sizzling sound. This is not an uncommon problem with the CRVs.
  • adelair1adelair1 Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Miss. California , your message is a sight for sore eyes as the CR-v's automatic gear box is not as black as it is some guys painted it here .
    I'm just gonna shell out all of my savings to buy it and hopefully It end up as a white elephant .
    Fingers crossed.
    Best
    Adel
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I am not an expert on auto trans, but as a general rule to check out first, try these things first.
    - have owner drive you around. This will tell you some of their habits. You should avoid it if their common practice is to shift into reverse while still rolling forward or vice versa, very bad
    - also avoid if their practice is to apply throttle right after shifting into gear before the gear has actually engaged..i.e. throttling it to speed up its engagement into gear..very bad
    - on the drive, look for harshness of shifting...does it shift hard (abruptly, jerky or even make loud clunk or thump noises) when upshifting or downshifting through the gears in common city driving.
    - when you get back, check the levels and smell the tran fluid from the fill hole. It should not smell burnt.
    - Put some on some white paper..should not have a darkish red tint, should still be bright or vivid colouring (I say this assuming Honda's fluid is red when new) I have never owned a Honda automatic.
    - ask to see the replaced records and dates and jive the odometer with said dates and $ spent for service. Honda's are VERY fussy in using THEIR own fluids. (as opposed to aftermarket, even if the aftermkt contr says it is ok to use).

    I usally don't pay much heed to that last one, but i DO with Honda cars. And with my own CRV ( a stick tho) although I do not buy their engine crankcase oil.

    Last thing...Honda DID have a lot of trouble with their auto trans in both Odessy (never remember the spelling on their minivan, but this doesn't look right) and Civics. Not sure about the CRV but they are sorta known to not have the best auto trans out there.
  • ken1007ken1007 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 red CR-V that now has a bit of a damage on the right front fender (teenager). I was considering replacing the entire fender with something used and wanted to know how close the color is likely to match. Has anyone done anything like this before? If so, was it really noticeable?

    The alternative is taking it into a body shop. That would cost a bunch of money and I still don't know how close they would match the paint.

    Thanks for your input!
  • mendonmassmendonmass Member Posts: 1
    Hello, the rear license plate light in my 2008 Honda CR-V is out, replaced bulb but still out. I wanted to check the fuses but the manual does not identify which fuse controls this light, would anyone know,

    Thank You
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    A piece of trim or bezel not seated correctly? Could make a noise just as you described...same with blowing vertically at blade of grass held tight between your hands..same sorta sound..
    The wind gets in under it..
  • hqly2001hqly2001 Member Posts: 92
    I just got a new CRV and i was comparing the leather seat with my brother oddyseey and his leather is smooth and looks nice, whereas, the leather on the crv is softer and the stitiching is bad. The poor stitching caused wrinkles all over the seat. I haven't had the cahnce to go check another car, but can you guys tell me if your leather seat has the same problem?
    The leather is stitched together and causes wrinkles, very bad wringkling.
  • snukesnuke Member Posts: 81
    I have own 1988 and 2000 Honda Accords. The 2000 Accord had leather seats which were of great quality. However, I am disappointed in my 2012 CRV leather seats. You are absolutely correct, the stitching is poor and the seats have a wrinkly appearance. I have applied a high quality leather conditioner twice with the hopes of improving the appearance of the leather and it has not helped. So, I have concluded that the quality of leather in my 2012 CRV is not good and I am concerned how it will look a year from now.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    I often wonder if the posters with their questions ever come back to see answers to their questions.. :(

    Been a few since this one too..
    I don't think it is just Honda forums, but am wondering if they aren't a bit worse though..
    So much info and knowledge can be shared through other's experiences, but not if it isn't actually shared.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sometimes the trick is just to answer the question, knowing that ten or more luckers will find it via a net search. A few of those will take the time to log in and say thank you. Either way, you're likely helping way more owners than you ever considered.

    And thank you. :shades:
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Yes, that's true, Steve. And of course you are welcome..I guess it's just me, but if I ask a question like that and get an answer I can really take to the bank, I'd jump thru hoops if necessary to log in to actually thank that poster.

    But what you say is quite true, probably many other eyes saw it and took it to the bank. Similar thing on a Prius forum I noticed lately. Guy posted some great info for owners. Not a single person thanked him. So I did..months later mind you..and I'm not even a Prius owner, but thought it was good info to know. Hopefully he finds out someone cared enough to thank him.

    Ya know...I wonder if this would be a cheap/good/effective way for the site to cover this aspect by enabling a 'like' feature? I noticed another poster posted that as a suggestion on the New Forums thread started a short while ago.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    edited March 2013
    Thumbs up are good but I'm holding out for a context sensitive real time grammar checker myself - the older I get the more irritating typos I make.

    Although, I suppose someone showing up and getting help via a net search could be called a "lucker". :D

    Part of it is that people want an answer and they move on to the next search hit to see if the answers they are getting make sense. Or maybe they hope there's an easier/faster or cheaper solution they can try first. And then they forget where they got help. Who knows. Just human nature to jump through hoops to gripe but not take the time to acknowledge help.

    Honda owners are especially nice about that stuff though. ;)
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Although, I suppose someone showing up and getting help via a net search could be called a "lucker"

    haha, I knew what you meant.. and hey..no doubt about it..searching and then finding answers are definitely luck(i)er if they find 'em.. :shades:
  • mafinchmafinch Member Posts: 11
    Hi all,

    I have noisy lifters most of the time hot or cold engine - what is the cost to have them readjusted? Also, periodically, i get a high pitch squeal that comes from the front right as I accelerate and then a few seconds later its gone. Thought it was breaks but after replaced still happens

    Last item - can someone describe what I would feel (if there is any difference) for a 2WD vehicle that has misaligned front end or possibly bad tie rods/rocker arms. Steering wheel shakes and vibrates after going 45mph to about 65 then seems to be less pronounced at 70mph or higher
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I have a new '12 that is ready for its first maintainance per the reminder. Mileage is about 6K, mostly city. The first indicator is O/C and rotate tires. I have no problem with the O/C but is it really necessary to rotate tires every 6K (which is probably about average mileage between O/c going forward. Seems like I could rotate every other O/c
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    edited March 2013
    Thanks for your help. Since I took your advice have not heard it once. (note that this is not the same car, I posted above, I have an 04 with 140K and a new '12.

    thanks
  • mcdermottmcdermott Member Posts: 29
    TheRiver: Rotating tires @ 6K is highly recommended to both extend the life of the tires and to keep your ride smooth and pleasant. Moreover, it is even better if tires are Balanced & Rotated every 6K. Your Dealer/Stealer will charge big bucks to Balance. Thus, when you replace your current tires, buy your next set from Costco, Walmart, or some other "bigbox" outfit, that will include Balance/Rotation every 6K for the life of the tires - in the price of the tires. Good luck.
  • snukesnuke Member Posts: 81
    I, too, have a 2012 with nearly 6,000 miles. I got my oil change at 3,000 even though the maintenance reminder had not indicted so. I use an independent Honda car repairman whom I have used for nearly 20-yrs. and he suggested I stay with the old oil change schedule (critical driving conditions here). But, I don't plan to rotate my tires for almost another $1,000 miles.
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    thanks. I actually think I have a coupon for a real cheap balance that the dealer sent me. The first O/c is half price ,too. So if the price isn't too much I'll do the balance, too.

    thanks.
  • rrshinnrrshinn Member Posts: 16
    I have a 2005 CRV that most of the warning lights come on, on the dash and stay on. they sometimes flicker intermittantly. Usually this happens when starting the vehicle. They may go off after a period of time. Sometimes just the battery light may stay on. Battery is 2 years old. Any ideas? Thanks.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    edited April 2013
    You didn't indicate if any of these lights (eg. the battery light staying on) have any effect on the, otherwise, normal operation of the vehicle? Does your battery go dead after a drive? Have you hooked a meter to the battery when the light stays on? I would have a meter hooked to it ahead of time so that you can first see if in fact that the battery IS getting a charge when the light is on. If it is chg'ing, then you will see about 14.5 volt give or take right after start up. If you see 10.9 or so, it definitely is not chg'ing.

    The idea here is to try to isolate one key clue at a time. The fact that the battery light stays on, when all the others go out, helps it become a more predominant clue over all the other potential scenarios..

    The more info u can provide the better, but start with questions exactly as asked above.

    edit- if u do not have a digital multimeter then does the car start and drive and restart after doing shopping chores around town often..does it restart the car easily? - or if you have a multimeter but don't know how to use, then post and I'll repost..
  • cannell3cannell3 Member Posts: 45
    Well, if they are self-adjusting, why am I hearing a lot of valve clatter in my daughter's 2007 Cr-v? I had scheduled it to have the valves adjusted this Saturday. Please advise me. Thanks. :confuse:
  • rrshinnrrshinn Member Posts: 16
    There is no change of operation when the lights appear. One fact is at idle there are no warning lights. As you rev the engine and increase rpms first light to appear is the battery warning then SRS and as they continue to rev up ABS, etc.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Member Posts: 2,345
    Given this info so far, it would be good to know if the electronic voltage regulator is cutting out when it should. I am skeptical (unfortunately) this type of issue can be trouble-shot over the internet. It seems to maybe be a connection somewhere, maybe ground? that is suspect by through higher charging current, (the higher engine rpms) becomes more instrumental in the equation.

    I much prefer a gauge over a light. As an example in this case, a battery light will come on if there is an over charge OR undercharge condition.
  • ysautoysauto Member Posts: 42
    Hi, I was at the dealer for an oil change on a Honda CRV 2008 and was told that the power steering rack had sweat on it. The car has 30K on it in mint shape. Reading a lot of reviews don't trust these guys. The dealer stated that I need to replace the rack fro $1250.00.
    I asked if there was a lot of fluid loss, was told no.
    Any opinions are highly appreciated.

    David
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I would *carefully* snug up the hydraulic lines going to the rack, wash the rack off at the car wash, and keep an eye on it.
  • ysautoysauto Member Posts: 42
    Thanks, I wish do the wash and keep an eye on the fluids, I didn't see anything dripping in the garage.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    2012 Honda CR-V: 20,000-Mile B1 Service Complete

    Edmunds paid $139.07 with tax after a discount for a B1 service on the long term tester.

    image
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    I think it was 85 - 90 dollars for the A1 (although I had a coupon for a half priced oil change so I did not pay that). However, the B1 appears to be nothing more than an O/C, rotate and check a bunch of stuff they check anyway, so when I go for the B1 I am going to insist they just do the A1.

    I do have a question. Why is the oil change so much on this car? My dealer says a "regular oil change" for other years is 29.95 (which I pay on my 2004 CRV, but the 2012 use 0W 30 oil which they charge 59.95 for.

    Is the oil that more expensive? I thought I heard them say it was synthetic, but the owners manual seems to imply that synthetic is an option, which to me means there is 0W30 that is not synthetic - Why so much for an O/C?
  • oldbearcatoldbearcat Member Posts: 197
    I have a 2010 CRV. It requires 0W-20 oil, which is only available in synthetic. I suspect your 2012 uses the same oil. Go price 5 quarts of the stuff, an oil filter, and a replacement drain bolt gasket. $59.95 isn't a bad deal.

    Regards:
    Oldbearcat
  • therivertheriver Member Posts: 70
    thanks oldbearcat. I guess when a person only buys a car once every 11 years things change!

    I changed the oil last time as soon as the light went on. I realized afterwards I probably had another 1000 miles or so before it went to 5%. Given the price, I think Ill squeeze it as close as possible.

    thanks
  • oldbearcatoldbearcat Member Posts: 197
    I don't even use the dealer here. I do my own oil changes on the Honda - its pretty easy to do.

    Regards:
    Oldbearcat
  • waynewalwaynewal Member Posts: 6
    Am looking to purchase a used CRV soon. Probably from carmax as they have a limited warranty. Am open to year and can afford up to a 2011. I hear certain years are 'avoid' years.
    Am looking at the 4wd version. Any input would be appreciated.
  • soco4soco4 Member Posts: 9
    The CVR resale values are so high that it's best to buy new. You'll get a "free" warranty, and neither sometimes-improper use and/or maintenance, nor the wear of several tens of thousands of miles. Don't pay for all wheel drive unless you would have substantial use for it.

    I am quite happy with my 2005 CRV LX. No repair to date (admittedly, miles are quite low); even the battery was still good after 8 years (I proactively replaced it earlier this spring).
Sign In or Register to comment.