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Honda CR-V Maintenance and Repair

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  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,206
    The CR-V is indeed on the list (comparing one year old cars to new ones, but still).

    Some New Cars Now Cheaper Than Used Cars

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  • waynewalwaynewal Posts: 4
    edited May 2013
    I think there are complaints on the newest CRV and a recall. I really don't have the ability - now retired - to spring for that high a car payment. Still looking used. BUT lots of miles on those used babies!!!
    On top of that looking to get one made in Japan - versus mexcio or the U.S. Am reading a lot on line about problems with the latter 2...
    UK definitely NOT
  • charles_guycharles_guy Posts: 55
    edited May 2013
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,206
    Don't forget the tire rotation.

    I got new tires put on my minivan today and the shop checked my brakes, coolant, battery and topped off my windshield washer fluid. That was a nice freebie (although I paid, lol).

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  • charles_guycharles_guy Posts: 55
    hey steve_ host and nice to have quick reply from a edmunds host,

    not sure what you rubbere'd on your van since snow is not much problem in ne for us

    i go for hydroplaning and really like some of the yokos or generals

    my comment about that crv service in the comment here http://www.edmunds.com/honda/cr-v/2012/long-term-road-test/2012-honda-cr-v-20000- -mile-b1-service-complete-commentspage.html#comments i just want to say check dealer sites n coupons.

    quote: (1) [i]I know that 0W20 synthetic is required for the CR-V[/i] and (2) [i]I picked up the CR-V about an hour later and was pleased to find the total bill did indeed reflect a discount: It was $139.07 with tax. That's right in line with the Edmunds.com Maintenance Calculator's suggestion that you should pay $145 for a 20,000-mile service on a 2012 Honda CR-V if you live in the 90404 zip code.[/i] (1) full syn is wrong as crv is listed per manual @ 0w-20 which can be a blend or full syn (2) i always check dealer sites for coupons so next time check dealer site for coupons "Includes: Change oil up to 5 qts.- Install Honda genuine oil filter - Multi-point inspection - Vehicles with 0/20 grade are $59.95" http://www.hondaofsantamonica.com/specials/service.htm (Multi-point inspection includes all that hose n brake checking stuff) 59.95+tax (59.95+(59.95x.095))=65.65 crv in the air doing oil so rotating tires=? edmunds payed 139.07 ipad & service advisor=fancy and less money in your pocket

    sou cal i think edmunds after $60 santa monica honda coupon for oil change n car check maybe $20-40 for rotation so maybe $100 in so cal.

    just leased LX and with 16's pumped the contys to 37 and now good steering

    nice ride and hope you enjoy yours steve_ host
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,206
    edited May 2013
    Yeah, your coupon doesn't cover rotations was my point. That's part of the 20k service, so you'll have to add that in.

    I'm riding on Nokian WRG2s lately (and yeah, I'm in the UP of Michigan, and we get a bit of snow).

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  • charles_guycharles_guy Posts: 55
    former 2wd/fwd indiana h pilot gal with geolandars and then grabbers in some big snow

    sorry your right on the rotation thing and jus wanted to point out the coupon from santa monica

    thanks for the fast reply

    safe driving
  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    I'm down here in Florida. I spent all May researching CR-V market here (all car websites, dealer websites, AAA), to get one for my daughter (senior year in college). I found that Honda dealers will rather send used CR-V's back to auction than sell them for a price below market (but still in the black for a profit). This skews the NADA and KBB values, because those sales to auctions are not recorded. Also, they use the higher used prices to sell new ones instead. I've seen used 11 EX selling at more than a new LX at same dealer. I Since it has the newer design, I really wanted a 2007+, but the price spread from 2006 to 2007 is steep. We ended up getting a 2009 LX with 126k miles for 10K, after it sat on their lot for 2 months with price dropping 2K over the final 2 weeks.

    I got all the service work details from the dealer, including that it had valves adjusted and a new valve cover put in around 110k miles. Is there anything I need to be on the lookout for over the next two months before she takes it to college in August? I also noticed a driveshaft seal getting worked on. Is that normal?
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,206
    edited June 2013
    Sending salable cars back to auction rather than cleaning them up for the used car lot makes no sense does it? Must be a tax dodge. :shades:

    Not sure, but I've read stories over the years that Edmunds gets auction numbers to plug into the TMV formula, but I'm not privy to that stuff so can't really say.

    If you didn't get a pre-purchase inspection done on the '09, I'd do one now at an independent mechanic. That may find any time-bombs that the dealer glossed over and maybe give you ammo to get the dealer to fix it. More likely the mechanic will recommend when any fluid changes or brake jobs or other general maintenance should be done.

    Other owners will be better sources about known problems or the seals; all I can think of from surfing the boards is that CR-Vs have a reputation for failing AC compressors.

    Congrats on the new ride - you're a good dad. :)

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  • 01intrigue01intrigue Posts: 92
    We just bought a 2009 CR-V. It's got 126k miles on it, but overall seems quite solid. The problem: the driver's door lock switch will not unlock the door locks. It can lock the doors, but it fails to do anything when moved in the unlock direction. We did not notice it because the driver's lock unlocked automatically when the car was shut off. I found the switch part online, and have changed these out in other cars I've owned by popping out the switch panel. But I cannot figure out (and have searched the internet far and wide) whether the switch panel can be removed from the armrest on its own (it is deeply set into the armrest) or if I have to remove the entire door panel. Any 2007-2011 owners/mechanics out there? Thanks!
  • I know that there have been previous posts recommending that we follow the on-board oil reminder (xx% oil life remaining) on late model CRVs. But my 2012 was bringing up the 0% figure after less than 4000 miles which seemed a bit premature to me. Now admittedly all of these approximate 4000 miles were stop-and-go city driving so I accepted those figures at face value.
    .
    I just had the chance to complete a 6,200 mile all high-speed highway trip. Starting with a new oil change, the oil life remaining figure just clicked over to 50%, which translates to about 12,000 miles of consistent high-speed driving. Even that figure seems a bit excessive for me. I was expecting no more than 10,000 at best.
    .
    We know that some values in the engine computer system need a little tweaking (i. e. the alternator charging rate aka dead battery syndrome) so I'm thinking maybe this oil life figure might need a little tweaking of its own. Your comments are welcome.
  • therivertheriver Posts: 67
    The passenger side mirror (just the glass) broke and fell off. The rubber part is still there. I ordered a part through Honda, thinking it was just the glass, but I think it includes the rubber piece (haven't gotten it yet). Anyway, it looks like you just pry the rubber piece off and it comes out with clips, then just push the new one back. Is that all there is.

    I wanted just the glass, and if it just the glass no problem, but I would have had to order on-line and I like that mirror- Honda can get the part in one day.

    Any experience - 04 CRV
  • almattialmatti Posts: 164
    Going to buy our leased vehicle : 2010 CRV-EXL with 25k on it. Dealer is offering extended bumper to bumper warranty to 100k or 5 years for about $1575. Should I do this? Is it worth it?
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Miles-wise it would be a better deal than time-wise. Plus the 5 years probably starts when the vehicle was first registered so really it is only an extra 2 years? Plus you already have the 5 years powertrain only. Also check what the deductible is per occurrence if you use the wty.

    If the A/C gave trouble you might wish you had the wty...not sure if the newer CRVs have had their A/C woes fixed or not. I think I have recently read about a 2010 failing early.
  • That sounds too much. I paid $600 for a 7 year 70,000m warranty but I never had to use it because the Hondas are well made. You can haggle with the dealer for a lower price, as I did, and get it for less.
  • Hi,
    I've got the manual for my Honda CRV 2006, and located two screws under the Audio unit (under the center vents and Hazard Light Switch). After removing these two screws, the manual says to gently pull out the bottom of the center panel (release clips) to create a gap.
    My problem is, pulling on the bottom of this panel doesn't release it or create a gap. I started by pulling gently and worked my way up to grabbing and pulling with two hands, but it still won't release. Any advice on how to proceed?
  • guest2011guest2011 Posts: 28
    edited September 2013
    I noticed streaks on the inside the windshield before i bought the car. Thought they got rid of everything at the prep wash. A few days later these streaks showed up again. Driving against the sunlight is like looking at streaking haze. I can tell they are permanent because i can feel them running my finger across. Auto glass cleaner and isopropyl alcohol can't remove the streaks. If the dealer doesn't get rid of them i'm returning this plasticky POS. Built in Ohio. Transmission Japan, 15%. I no longer expect quality in japanese brands built in the states and mexico.
  • I just took my 2013 CRV in for a B12 service at around 53k. I do a lot of highway driving and brakes tend to last a long time, last time the brakes were checked the dealer told me I had about 80% left and guessed I would get close to 100k on them.

    This time I has told the rear brake (one side) was gone metal on metal. When they took it apart they found that the caliper was ok but the bracket that holds the pads had gotten so rusty that it no longer went back (before they took it apart they mentioned it could be the guide pins or the caliper, perhaps the guide pins are the same as a bracket). I saw someone commented that there may be a service bulletin for this issue? I sensed from the dealer that this problem is not unusual-(. Have other people had this issue is it common in Honda's, I've never even heard of this problem until yesterday-(

    This is the first Honda i have owned it is a little disappointing to have a problem like this at just over 50k.
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Does your car have more plastic in it now than when you first purchased it?

    Seems to me, you have to own a bit more content of your decision to purchase it.

    As for the faulty windshield, yes that sucks because it obviously went unnoticed during pick up of the new car. In an effort to be somewhat amicable with your dealer (if they are decent basically in other regards during your purchase) then I would have THEM, not a jobber, order a brand new HONDA windshield (NOT an aftermkt one, cuz there are good ones and poor ones out there...they think we are stupid..some are softer than others and some are thinner that others, adding interior noise levels) and have the Honda dealer do the re and re.

    It sucks to have to deal with this but hey...this scenario is so much better than having a new car and a month later finding out they have to tear the engine or transmission apart..THAT is my worst nightmare when buying a new vehicle. Being 'the one' who gets one 'of those'..
  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    Rear brakes on CRVs are not one of Honda's strong suits. Brakes in general in the past almost decade are not a strong point with Honda for some reason.

    I have had to replace rear brakes, rotors and pads twice now in only 55000 miles. Obviously a poor design issue. Usually the front go long before the rear since they do a lot greater braking force than rears.
  • I have a 2011 AWD CRV about 2 years old but with only about 15,000 miles on it. Before buying I had heard of problems with previous years with the wrong rear end fluid and was concerned but thought this was limited to 2007 and earlier. I tried to buy a 2WD model because of my concern and because I spend the winter in Florida and don't need AWD but being from the Northeast I could only get an AWD in my desired model and color. Just recently I started hearing "rachetty sounding" creaking taking tight turns which seems to be only rights but could be both as I always turn right initially. This seems to be only for a few turns when the car is cold and then goes away.
    Is this still a problem with newer CRVs and is it not a problem with the wrong fluid but fluid wearing out prematurely? I get no message from the "life" indicator to change it.
    Does getting this sound indicate that there was damage?
    Does it need to be "burnished"?
    I checked the service manual and it appears that there are NO recommended service intervals for ANYTHING and just relying on the "minder". There is just a check box for 'replace rear differential fluid' (if applicable).
    Not very happy with a new vehicle.
  • I have a 2011 AWD CRV with 15,000 miles. We started to spend 3 months in Florida for the winter and I left my CRV in the garage. My daughter has a Honda Fit that is crappy in the snow so she borrowed my CRV for storms. Being aware of rotor rust I asked her to be sure that when she returned it that the roads were dry to make sure the rotors would also be. I'm not sure how good she was with this but got a message from here that in the Spring the car was "making noises". I brought it to the dealer who told me that all the rotors were badly rusted and it cost me $450 to get them shaved. We also left a 2005 Nissan Altima in the garage which had no difficulty with the brakes.
    The dealer said to have the car driven weekly to avoid this problem.
    Has anyone else had a problem like this?
    If I just leave the car in the garage should the rotors be OK if I make sure they are dry before storage? (I drove around for a while with light pressure on the brakes on a dry day to be sure).
    If my daughter uses it for storms should we be OK if she actually does what I asked and make sure the rotors are dry when going back into the unheated garage?
    If we just leave it in the garage for 3 months any experience as to how often, if ever, the car should be driven on a dry day to keep the brakes clean?
    I don't want to spend $450 a year and make my rotors too thin.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,206
    edited September 2013
    That happens to my old Subaru, but I get the rust over the summer months when it mostly sits.

    My mechanic just told me to drive it a bit more often.

    I'd think that simply using the brakes would dry the discs enough.

    Try the Stop here! Let's talk about brakes discussion too.

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  • crkyolfrtcrkyolfrt Posts: 2,345
    edited September 2013
    While this is just a guess concerning your 2011, my 2005 had this very same symptom. The noise was accompanied with a binding when turning. I had just bought the car used off lease..and I mean JUST bought it. For some reason never noticed on test drive but did take it to a steep gravel hill to test that the rear axle was kicking in on aggressive take off. Well FF to later that day at home and I feel and hear this binding :( So I'm pretty sure that my hill test caused the rear axle pump to engage and the mechanism was reluctant to release. Fortunately the cure was simply changing the rear dif oil with a litre of new stuff. Who wudda thunk? to this day I am amazed that the oil change solved to ailment. I do it every 12000 miles now cuz is so cheap to do. Technically though, shouldn't 'have' to until Honda says, which is what? Every 35k or something?

    I have your brake issue too for the same reason, not driving enough. And once your 2011 gets a couple more years on it, be prepared for sticking pads and calipers. Hondas are notorious for that. One of their other weak areas. Being in FL you probably won't have as much an issue tho come to think of it..
  • The CRV will never be in Florida so I am at the mercy of the Northeast elements with snow and salt (if my daughter drives it). We have another car in Florida, an 11 year old Highlander which has been pretty good except I had rear end problems so I wanted a 2WD CRV but needed to get an AWD because they don't ship many 2WD's to the Northeast.
  • eenglish99: This is an old and ongoing difficulty with CRVs. My 2005 CRV Owners Manual said to replace the Rear Differential fluid at 90,000 miles. Alas, the fluid broke down at 17,000 miles. I had the fluid replaced (DRAIN & FILL ONLY - NO FLUSHING) at 17,000 miles, again at 50,000 miles and 100,000 miles. I've experienced no additional problems thus far, and plan to replace the fluid at 150,000 miles unless the "groaning and grinding" sounds reappear sooner. Honda released Honda Service Bulletin 07-024, dated August 12, 2009 which explains this all-too-common problem and what your Honda Service Techs are supposed to do about it. If you Dealer/Stealer can't locate this 07-024, email me and I will send you a .pdf copy of it. My email is N4YIC@comcast.net - Good luck with it all. Regards, Jack
  • I've had a 1990 accord that went well over 120,000 miles before it needed a brake job and presently own a 2004 accord with 70,000+ miles and original brakes working fine. Invariably it's people who drive with a heavy foot, who hurry up to slow down whose brakes wear out prematurely. Of course, they deny they drive that way but needing to replace your brakes after only a few years tells a different story.
  • steverstever YooperlandPosts: 40,206
    You can find that TSB at BBBind.com for free (you do have to register). This link may even work (pdf file).

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  • Hello all! I have a question. Is it ok for me switch oil from 5w-30 to 5w-20 in the winter? It is thinner and lighter oil and easy to start in cold temp. Just my thought. Please let me know your inputs. Thanks
  • I didn't know windshields can be different. I'm replacing it through dealer so assume its the original Honda glass. Dealer doesn't have own glass department. Local glass specialists work with dealers. I can't tell if its a 3rd party inferior quality or original and if i ask i know service dept won't tell me the truth. Dealers always lie. My original glass has a bar code in lower left corner. That's all i can see. There's no extended warranty on after-install defects in case something fails after 3yrs/36,000mi due to installation.

    My car has more scratches in plastic now then when i first bought it. Seems like air is too abrasive for this type of plastic. My E had much better quality scratch resistant interior and exterior plastic.
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