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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying



  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    I'm doing internals, pistons, everything... i want this motor to last me until 2018!!!! I'm planning on only pushing 10psi with fully built bottom. The B18b head I have is in excellent condition so I'm gonna try and get away without [non-permissible content removed]. retainers, just gonna deck it and hot tank it. But the bottom I'm gonna spend at least 3-400 at the machine shop, decking, balancing rotating crank assembly, honing, the works.... Hey if Im only pushing 10psi do I even need a BOV??? I'm looking into your BOV suggestions either way..
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    The reason for getting a BOV is to release the pressure in the intake piping when you close the throttle. Think of it this way. You have a disk of pressure that comes out of the turbo and it travels through the charge pipe. If this disk is traveling and then you close the throttle, the disk will hit the throttle butterfly and bounce back, traveling backwards through the charge pipe. It'll eventually get back to the turbo and flow back into the turbo. This causes the turbo to try to spin backwards (that's not normal for the turbo), so it slows down a lot and the car feels really unresponsive as the turbo has to spool back up. If that shock is too great, it has the possiblity of ruining the compressor and seals. So, I'd at least recommend a blowoff valve that'll go from the charge pipe back into the intake pipe before the turbo. It doesn't have to be a crazy BOV, just a simple one will work just as well.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    I think Im pretty solid on the concept. & if I'm reading your post correctly than theres really no way around having a BOV unless I want to damage/wear down the turbo/engine components. Is there anyway I could hear the GReddy BOV online or something? Im talking about the "reasonable sounding" one that you mentioned a little earlier.

    I am so happy with this suspension setup. I know I could stand to lose a little more weight in front and maybe get some better shocks but two days ago, right after I changed my oil I was heading home by myself (empty car) and I kept getting taunted by this hot shot in a Mercedes S350 (2005 or 2006 - not sure but when I looked it up later on the internet these body styles matched the one Im talking about). He kept mashing at every green light (which I was already doing). I couldn't come close to keeping up with him but the lights were timed so he got stuck at each subsequent red light (idiot gas waster!) Anyway, we finally approached my fav. turns that I drive on at least twice a day and I figured what the hell, I don't have a chance but I'll put some pressure on him. I kept it in third and actually took him on the third turn!!!! I saw he had his GF or wife in the car too so he must have felt thououghly humiliated by a 15yr old car (stock motor) that cost almost $50,000 less than his big timer Benz!!! Ha!!!! :P I can't wait to see what I can do with my turbo set-up. Some of the guys on Honda-Tech, Honda-Swap claim to have pushed out 200-250 WHP and 190-220 ft/lbs torque with my LS turbo set-up. If I can smoke a mercedez with a 15yr old 130hp motor..... well, I think you can see the potential for drag style racing approaching. All for the third of the cost of a new car. Ha!!!!! :shades:
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    Here's a page with videos and sounds of different BOV's on different cars. Most of the links work.


    You'll have to navigate around, but just keep looking for sounds and videos and click the links. You'll find it.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    hehehe, I put my newly-bought old-style 14" azenis on stock miata wheels on the other day. I think I got a good deal, as I paid 320 for 4 wheels and tires (2 auto-x on them) as well as two victoracers (~5 auto-x). Anyways, I wasn't planning on putting them on until later this week, but I got a nail in one of my all-seasons. Anyways, let me start off with that story...

    I went to discount tire to get some other azenis on 2 of my regular wheels, just because I didn't want to pay for new tires quite yet. Anyways, I go inside and talk to the salesman and I said I had a nail in my tire and I didn't know if it was fixable, if not, put the azenis on the back, yady yady yada. So we start walking out to the car and I squat down next to the miata. I look back at the guy and he has the most dumbfounded look on his face. He said, "This is your car? How do you fit?" I told him I had a custom seat and that I almost sit on the floor, so he looked inside and say the racing seat and said, "Oh man, that seat is awesome!" .... "Is that a roll bar?!?!! Hey, do you race this thing?!" I said yes, and asked him to check out this nail.

    So everything got taken care of, 2 azenis mounted and balanced, the old tires put on the front of the car. They drive my car out of the bay, and I look at everything to make sure it's kosher. I head around to my door and I see a business card underneath the windshield wiper. It was a "Farmers Insurance" card, so I kinda freaked out because of what was written on the back. "I would like to talk to you about miata racing. Please give me a call." Well, I called the number and talked to him, and he was pretty enthusiastic about miatas and he really wanted to auto-x his 94.

    On the drive home, I decided that having just 2 azenis on the car wasn't good enough. I put on 2 more, so I have 93 miata wheels on the driver side and 95 wheels on the passenger. It's subtle, but it's definitely noticable. Alright, so here's the point of this post. The car is absolutely amazing to drive now! With the extra grip of the tires, the car can lean more so the alignment is actually doing its job. I mean, driving the car is just perfect now. Front end goes where it's supposed to go, back end doesn't come out, no sliding, and no more vibration from unbalanced wheels :D I guess what I'm trying to say is what Harry's been telling me for years: a good set of tires is the best handling modification you could ever do. I'm really excited for the auto-x this weekend.
  • Just got my AEM CAI in tonight, though i wont be able to install it till the weekend because of work, but its nice to look at sitting on the floor in my room. I dont think the install should be too hard, the guy i bought it from put on a short ram so the stock box is removed along with the resinator. Any tips would be appreciated. Hope you guys had a good labor day weekend.
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    When it comes time to install the intake, take off the strut tower bar (if equipped) and it should be pretty straight forward. When I did mine, I ended up cocking the intake off 90* or so at the hole into the fenderwell. That way, it just "screwed" into the hole and was basically installed. Just needed to connect to the throttle body and the filter put on the end. It wasn't bad at all.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Okay so I've been noticing that even though I only dropped the car an inch I'm getting some noticable wear on my brand new tires. My plan is to get a hold of a set of Hx Rims (and sand down my caliper as Gar-e recommended and than maybe even get a camber kit.
    What type of camber kit should I get??? Tuners Choice makes several diff. kinds of Kits w/ ones that adjust the knuckes, ones for the LCA's, UCA, one for non-slotted struts,and onesto adjust toe in&out. Where do I start? Can't I just get any kit? And Harry, didn't you say you had some alignment specifications for me?!?!?! I would rather lean a little on the side of performance than long lasting tires unless they're not really interchangable. I dunno... I can't keep burning through tires like this though.

    Thanks for the BOV link, it seems like theres almost no escaping the alleviating whine from any BOV. They didn't have a link for a turbo LS motor but I assume it's something like the other 4cyl engines that were on the site.

    Improving plan: It seems like the best way for me to carry out my plan will be to completely rebuild the B18b to just surpass it's stock profile and than break it in and run it for a good 2-3k miles. Than take it off, inspect it and throw the turbo on! ;) What do ya guys think?
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    For a camber kit, I'd get one that moves the UCA, just because it'll be out of the way and should be easier to install and adjust. On the integra, I had the Skunk2 upper control arms with an adjustable piece for the arm down to the hub. It worked well when it didn't slip (did some modifications to the arm). As far as an alignment goes, I'd get a touch of negative camber, 0 toe, 0 caster, but Harry will give you actual numbers to shoot for. I've been out of the FWD game too long, so my sketchy knowledge of alignments is almost completely gone.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    wow I just read through all the posts.

    Ok I 'm not sure 90GS which suspension you have. I remember you installed the sway bars but now you said your car is lowered 1". Did you get sports springs or a coilover kit (and good shocks I hope)? The reason I 'm asking is because what I 'm about to tell you, not too many people have realized and still give out wrong info about alignment settings on H-T and other forums. Not all alignment settings work the same for all Integras.
    This is from my experience with my DC2 (3d gen) but should apply to your Teg and most Hondas and FWD cars. The spring rates and shock valving DICTATE the best alignment settings for your car. What I have found is that my car doesn't handle as well with a 1/6-1/4" toe-out and slight toe-out in the rear with my 600F/750R lb springs, but they worked great with my 400/475lb setup or 276/220lb H&R springs I used to have. I have come to realize that the higher I go with the spring rates the less toe-out I have to go with all around and (even less camber!), but since you don't compete with your car and you want your tires to last a little longer than a typical auto-xer's, then you don't want to overdo it.

    Just set the rear toe to 0 (each side should be 0.00") inches and the front with slight toe out like -0.03 to -0.05" each side for a total of up to -0.10" which is 1/10th of toe out, and nothing more otherwise your tires will start wearing fast. So the range you want is 1/16th to 1/10th. I would recommend or -0.08 total toe in the front which is 1/12th of an inch toe out.

    As far as camber goes you shouldn't have too much camber with a 1" drop but I have come to realize that more camber does accelerate wear & tear unlike many people say. You 'll hear that toe wears out tires prematurely, not camber. That is also bull. Excess camber will mess up your tires, especially if you have considerable toe out. It will accelerate the wear. If you have 0 toe and a little high camber, it won't be as bad. Both high toe out and much negative camber = 2-3mos tire life only. Anyway, you want anywhere between -1 and -1.5 deg. of negative camber in the front. You won't need a camber kit for the rear because I doubt your rear is much over 1 deg. but if you decide to get camber kits, I found the Ingalls rear camber kit a very nice piece. Very easy to install and it comes with your choice of rubber or poly bushings. For the front the Skunk2 upper arms is what I have and most auto-xers and road racers. The new version of the Skunk 2 UCAs is very good and easy to adjust but I wouldn't run out and purchase these unless you put it on the alignment rack and see what your current settings are.

    I 'm pretty certain that your extra wear on the tires is because your Toe settings are out of wack and why your car handles so good. A lot of toe out in the front is great for handling (bad for tires). I 'm also sure your toe settings are not the same all around either. This past spring when I switched from the Advance Design coilover (threaded) shocks back to the Konis with the GC coilover kit, my car wasn't pulling at all and felt great on the street without getting the car corner weighted, aligned or anything. A couple of weeks later I put it on the alignment rack and my toe settings were as follows: -0.12 LeftFront, +0.09 RF, +0.07 LeftRear and -0.05 RR. The height was all messed up (which I knew) because the spring perches of my GC kit were stuck and the screws had ceased so I couldn't adjust anything. The car would drive perfectly straight without pulling so it seems they all cancelled each other out.

    So I 'm only saying if I were you, before I spend $350 on front & rear camber kits, and I didn't race the car, I would just get an alignnment and adjust the toe because I don't think you have more than -1.5" camber which shouldn't hurt your tires that fast. I have mine set for -2.5"F and -1.5R for a couple of months now and I haven't seen any tire wear yet. My Toe is -0.14 total toe-out in the front and some toe-in the back. My toe out in the front is considered above normal and a little excessive (used to have -0.20 and -0.25 1-2 years ago!). So if you 're seeing premature tire wear I suspect your toe is way out of wack with probably too much toe out. If you have -2 deg. of camber than you might consider getting a camber kit. It's possible you have too much camber because of your old bushings.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Dont you remember!??!!? You never talked me out of buying the cheap springs!!! I'm riding on the Tokico HP shocks and springs. I looked up the spring rates and the closest I could find was some guy that called tokico and they gave him a figure of about 17% stiffer than stock springs. I know this combo has been woring pretty good its just the camber that I wanna fix because these tires are actually really nice and sticky. The wheels are the stock 94-95 GSR 15x6 wheels and the tires are 205/50 - enduro runway 506, some european stickies! I like the set up right now I just wanna get a good set of the Hx rims (14x5.5) so I can lose some unsprung weight. Even thought my stock wheels were 14 and they weren't so good but than again my stock tires were 195/60's and one of them was put on backwards (directional tires) ;) . I am seriously considering a camber kit and I've heard about Omni-power making good ones, is this true? Harry - am I correct to assume that I cannot correct the toe without a camber kit?
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Camber has nothing to do with adjusting the toe. Toe is adjustable on ALL cars regardless of having a camber kit or not. Each tie rod in our Hondas/Acuras (and most other cars) has a nut that adjusts the toe. It allows for movement of the tie rods in either direction to produce toe-out or toe-in.

    You don't need a camber kit. Only cars that are lowered 2-3" may need a camber kit to reduce camber. I doubt you have much more than -1.5 deg. of camber. I know many on H-T buy a camber kit but most of their cars are slammed to the ground. Many of them however don't even need it because a little camber doesn't hurt the tires. Your car is only lowered 1". After I switched back to the Konis I had to raise the car so now it's lowered only 1.25". My camber was (without the kit) only -1.4 deg. front and -1.0 deg. rear. That's not a lot of camber. I suspect you 'll have similar or slightly higher because of your old worn out bushings (I have new stiff poly ones).

    Before you go out and spend good $$ on camber kits go get an alignment and straighten out your toe Excessive toe-out is most likely wearing out your tires. Do you have uneven tire wear? Excessive toe-out (negative toe) will wear out the inside of your tires first. Camber will only start hurting your tires if it's more than -2.0 deg. When you go to get a wheel alignment ask the mechanic to show you the "before printout" which is your current settings. The printout will show the toe and camber for each corner. Then hand them a piece of paper with the toe settings I provided in my other post. Save the before & after printouts they 'll give you, and come back and tell us what your settings were.
    I bet you don't need a camber kit. You want some negative camber for handling. If you get a camber kit and take out some camber, you 'll notice the difference in handling right away. Your tires will start squealing more, your car will understeer more, and you will be rolling over the tires.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    The installation of the regualr AEM CAI is a breeze. Pretty straight forward. Even if you 've never done it before it should take you under 1hr.

    Installation of the AEM V2 CAI is not such a breeze. I installed it a couple of mos ago. You have to remove the lower tranny mount and replace it with one of theirs. It took much longer. I didn't feel any difference in acceleration (I didn't expect that anyway) but it sounds much better than ver.1. Not as whiny as the old CAI but a more deep sound and a little louder. I like the V2.
  • Thanks for the advice on the install, it really wasn't that hard at all. I didn't really have to do that much because the previous owner had already taken out the stock air box so it was simple. My next question is about exhaust fittment. I am set on the skunk2 exhaust because I am getting a great deal on the whole system, and its only been used for about 3 months, the guy is doing an engine swap and needs some money to pay the shop for the swap. Anyway, i've been reading alot of articles lately about exhausts and am concerned i may end up buying exhaust components that dont fit right. The skunk2 cat. back is 2.36'' or like 60mm i think. The thing i'm concerned with is weather or not i'll be able to gradually upgrade my whole exhaust system over time and still have everything fit when i buy it, or will i have to buy everything and spend alot of money at 1 time. I dont want to be stuck looking at an exhaust sitting in my garage because i didn't take the time to find out what size diameter that was needed. I'm planning on eventually upgrading everything, headers and cat, and want to know if i buy an exhaust now with a certain diameter if i'll be stuck with only one choice of the type of header or cat later on down the road because of the size. Also will i be able to just 'bolt on' the new cat. back to my existing components or will some alteration be required, i guess thats just stating the same question again but oh well.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    This helps a lot.... I'll go out and get an alignment but what I need to know is this: does the alignment procedure change or do I need to do it over with different tires/wheels!?! I just opened up my wheel options a lot last night. I bought a set of Hx rims (14x5.5) and they came with Kumho Esctas. They're not great tires (wrong size: 195/60 & they're the "H" rated ones), but the tires are almost brand new (like 90-95% tread left). I couldn't pass it up, I paid $220 for the whole set. So I learned that these Hx rims are 12lbs (a bit less than the 15.2lb GSR rims I have right now) so that was the key point in the purchase. I guess what I want to know is, should I just plan on getting new tires for the Hx rims BEFORE I get the alignment or does it even matter. On a side note I've got a friend that has a 4D of the same year as mine and he said that for the rear suspension you can get some parts at home depot and make your own camber kit (hes gonna help me with that), but for the front he suggests the Omni-Power camber kit ($250) but if I'm hearing you correctly than that would be a waste of money.... harry? :sick:
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    You don't NEED a camber kit for the fronts. Out-of-wack toe settings will eat your tires up way before camber will. Also, since you are lowered so little (1" is nothing on a honda) your camber shouldn't be so much where it becomes a huge factor.

    Mike - as far as exhausts go, as long as the flanges are the same, they'll bolt up with no problem. When you start getting into which headers fit with my cat/cat back combo, things start getting a little tricky. First off, if you get things that are made for your year of car, then you won't have any problems. Let's say you want to get the JDM ITR header (2.5" collector, h-t raves about them ... I don't see the point), you're going to have to get a new catalytic convertor because it's physically not big enough to accept the header. Also, the length of the header plays a part here. I don't quite remember which years have the short catalytic convertor and which ones have the long, but the information is out there. last thing, 60 mm is great for a naturally aspirated car that's not revving past stock redline.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    14x5.5" rims are small. You 're better off with 15x6" and a good 205-50-15" tire. The latter makes your car handle better. 195-60-14" is not really a low profile tire. You have more sidewall flex and 195 is really not that wide. The 5.5" rim is not really wide enough to provide great sidewall support in high speed turns. It 'll work good with the 195-60-14 tires but not as good as if you had 205-50's on 15x6" rims. The only thing you have going for you (as compared to before) with these HX rims is the weight. You 'll notice the steering will get a little lighter, a good thing, and quicker, also a good thing but you won't be pulling the same G's as with a 15" rim and 205-50 tires. Now if you put Kumho Ecsta MX (this tire won many trophies at the auto-x National champtionship this week in Topeka) on the 14's or Falken Azenis, it might be the same or better because those are awesome tires.

    Your friend is right. You can adjust the camber in the rear with a bunch of washers that you can put on the rear upper control arms. The old terminology for those which is still used today is "shims".

    Exhaust/header/Cat: I don't know if I mentioned this but I have bought the T1R 2.5" exhaust (63mm all the way through) and the JDM Type-R 4-1 race header (DC Sports - I went cheap). They 've been sitting in my garage for about a week. I 'm just waiting for the T1R 2.5" resonated Test Pipe (which replaces the CAT). It's back ordered but they tell me I should have it sometime before the month is up. As Phoy said the JDM header has a 2.5" collector so they sold me an S2000 donut so it will connect to the 2.5" test pipe I 'm getting. With these 3 pieces there are no bottlenecks and you get 2.5" piping all the way through.
    The T1R test pipe is resonated so it keeps the noise down which is typical of regular non-resonated test pipes. There are very few companies that make 2.5" exhausts and the TypeOne R (T1R) is an excellent all stainless steel exhaust and one of the best for sound and power gains if you have a B-series motor. Most of the dynos I 've seen of GSRs and Type-Rs with these 3 mods that I 'll be installing on my car, show 14-18whp gains. My goal is to be at least in the mid-160's at the wheels (same as a stock Type-R). I 'm hoping I 'll hit high 160's because I 'm already at 158whp with only a regular DC Sports 4-2-1 header (and the AEM CAI) with the timing at 19deg. I 'm still on the stock CAT and exhaust. T1R advertises that this exhaust (called the Power exhaust) gives 7-11whp gains, and their test pipe another 4-5whp. Even if I use the lower 2 #s that's 11whp. Plus another ~2whp from the 4-1 JDM race header (from the regular 4-2-1 header I have now), and that's at least 13whp. Theoretically that will bring me up to over 170whp but I 'm skeptical about that, although I have seen dynos of a couple of GSRs and they 're pretty close. Stock Type-Rs get 180whp from these 3 mods (without a CAI)! It's an awesome exhaust and you can't dispute the power gains of a Test Pipe vs. stock CAT. I 'll be happy with mid-high 160's and a few more ft-lbs of torque. Oh I guess my 8.9lb flywheel probably freed up 1-2whp too, maybe that's why my car is in the high 150's with only a CAI and average header. BTW, the DC Sports 4-1 JDM header I got has a label on it that says: "race header, not for street use"!! :)

    The only thing that concerns me is that there is talk that next year or the year after, my county will have emissions inspection so I 'll probably have to remove the test pipe and go with a free-flow CAT or sell the car by then. Good thing my inspection is coming up now so I 'm good till next Fall.
    Oh, I raced an '05 S2000 while instructing a guy and it's an amazing car! Of course I had no doubts about that because I 've been looking at used S2000's for the last month but I 'll wait till next year. It was white with 300mi. on it and I told the guy he 's crazy for racing it but he is so hooked he couldn't stay away. The brakes are awesome too. This S2000 was all stock with the stock Bridgestone RE-something tires. I almost got the same time with the S2000 as I did with my modded GSR! I think I would 've been faster if it wasn't for hitting the rev-limiter in 2nd gear all the time because it's 6-sp. The course was actually very fast though and this wasn't an SCCA club but still the S2000 is a great handling car right out of the box even with the stock tires. I never hit redline with my car at that event. I think if it had Falkens or Kumho MX, I might have gotten better times than my GSR which was on race tires that day. Or if I drove the S2K a couple more timed than just once, and got used to it more, I 'm pretty sure I would have gotten much better times and possibly better than my GSR.
    Some lady is selling her '98 Type-R near Philladelphia, PA but she 's asking too much. This is a National Champion Type-R ('99 I think). Only 19k mi. on it because the lady only uses it to auto-x. She bought it in '01. I was going to give her a call when one of my racing friends told me that he 's seen the car. She has put graphics and crap on it with like pink lines, stripes, etc. so I had to go puke and couldn't get to the phone. Women.. :mad: they told me the whole car would have to get painted to get rid of the stuff she 's done to it.. Oh well, she was asking too much for it anyway. 8yr old ITR for $16K? Hmm, naah. An '00 or '01, yes, but not a '98.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    Yes a sad day indeed. Yesterday was the last day of the Solo (auto-x) National Championships in Topeka, KS.

    For the first time in many years a Type-R didn't take D Stock this year.
    My buddy GJ Dixon took D Stock yesterday with his friend's BMW 330i (yes a 4dr!). I 'm happy for him but sad at the same time that the time of the Type-R is really up.. It had a glorious 7yrs at the Solo National Champtionships. The Type-R actually exceeded the 5yrs that most models reign at the Nationals. Something newer or better always creeps up to beat the defending champion cars every few years. I had a feeling the Type-Rs couldn't fight off the powerful 330 Bimmers this year after I saw that 2 or 3 BMW 330's were in the top 5 last year. Also this guy GJ is a sick driver. One of the best I 've seen. I think if he drove a Type-R yesterday he might have won 1st place in that too. He used to have a D Prepared (DP) 320 Bimmer (but heavy as hek for this class) and many times he 'd get FTD (Fastest Time of Day) or close to it. I 've also seen him drive others' completely stock cars and getting phenomenal times.

    A Type-R only managed to win 5th place out of 34 cars. Also 7th through 10th place were Type-Rs. Only 10 cars trophied so 1/2 of them were ITRs. 2nd place was a new comer: An '04 Golf R32! 3d & 4th were 330ci Bimmers (2-dr). That Golf must of surprised everyone. I think the R32 is the rugular GTI V6 isn't it? If it is, it has about the same power to weight distribution as the heavier 330ci and almost the same torque #s (195!). If the Type-R had another 30 or so more ft-lbs of torque than its measly 130, it would remain unbeatable for a very long time.

    The S2000's couldn't compete very well in their new class (they bumped them up this year), A Stock. The older more power Corvettes (C4) with their V8's including ZR1's (!!) seem to dominate this class although for the first time in a very long time, a '97 Porsche 993 won the class. It's usually a Vette that takes 1st in AS. However, Jason Saini managed to come in 3d with his '01 S2K!! That is a great accomplishment. S2000's also came in 5th, 7th, 8th and 9th, 11th and 12th which means they kicked butt and gave them a run for their money. Only the top 12 cars out 45 trophies in this class, half of which were '89-96 Corvettes including the mighty limited production ZR1's. Well 7 out of those 12 trophies went to S2K which means that in general Honda kicked Corvette and Porsche butt, overall. Highly commendable of the little 2.0L underpowered Honda Sportsters (only one '04 S2K trophied which has a 2.2L but same HP and slightly more torque).

    Also the first time in 5yrs an S2000 did not win a National Championship but they did pretty well considering they got bumped up to a faster class full of V8's and high horsepower sports cars like Porsche 911's. S2K's took B Stock 5yrs in a row since its first year in production in '00! Their main competition in that class was the Porsche Boxter and older (240hp) M3's.

    I think for next year Honda better import the new torquier 225hp (2.0L) Type-R to the US, otherwise the Bimmers (& possibly the 200+hp VW's) will remain unchallenged in DS for a while. The Type-R has lost its edge. Without the abundant torque found in these other cars, the Type-R's weight, nimbleness, LSD, and 8500 RPM line are no longer enough to impose fear on its opponents. I remember during the last few years BMW, Audi and VW auto-xers would say: "oh shoot there 's a Type-R in our class, or "a Type-R just drove into the pit area" Now Type-R racers say: "shoot there 's a 330 in my class". Oh well, our time will come again. It was nice beating all those 328's and 325's the past 7yrs though :)
    What I 'd like to see next year is a Type-R win the D Street Prepared (DSP) class now that they 've been bumped down to this slower class from CSP. I think it can take the 325's that dominate DSP. It's lighter and with an extra 25-30whp that it can gain from bolt-ons (and ECU), plus a good coilover suspension, should make it a serious threat to the Bimmers that have reigned in DSP the last couple of years. The problem is, most Type-R owners don't modify their cars according to the Street Prepared SCCA rules. They will either do very mild mods, and a few bolt-ons trying to keep their car mostly stock, or they 'll go all out and work the motor or head which is not allowed in DSP.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Like the title says... I wanna push the light weight rims to the fullest of their potential. I've decided to keep both sets of rims. My 15x6 and my 14x5.5, at least until I can find some reasonable priced rotas that don't look too aftermarketish, if you know what I mean! :blush: Ahhh, I love OEM. Okay so it seems like the widest tire I can get for the Hx's is 205/60-14 because 205/50-14's seem to be very raerly produced. Just out of curiosity though... might I be better off with a 205/50-14 over a 205/60-14?

    As far as the 205/60's go I'm looking at the following street tires: Dunlop SP Sport A2 Plus ($60), BFGoodrich Traction T/A H ($65), Falken [whatever I can get in this size] ($50-70). Whic one would you choose?

    I really like the way the 205/50-15 handles w/ these sticky tires, I want to compare it to a good 14" version though. These 14's are an estimates 3.2lbs lighter than the 15's I'm wearing now, that's quite a bit of unsprung weight right? Aren't you supposed to multiply it by 8 and than by 4 (4 tires)... thats almost 100lbs lost!
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    I'd get the 195/60/14 falken azenis just because they'll allow you the pleasure of having a tire that'll give a gradual breakaway and still controlable at the limit. If you want a full-out race tire, perhaps a 205/55/14 kumho victoracer is in order.

    for the 15's, the 205/50/15 falken azenis are nice tires. They're actually really nice. They're wide enough for integras and have a short enough sidewall to be really stable. I had 195/60/14's on my integra, and they were good, but turnin was kinda sloppy because of the flex in the sidewall. With the 205/50/15's, the car was much sharper in the turns and was quite stable all the time.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    What I would do (and have done for many years) is get some cheap rotas (used preferrably - there are thousands of them out there) most of which are 15x6.5," and use sticky or summer 205-50 tires (ultra-performance or high performance) during the spring, summer and part of the Fall if you have regular winters where you live.

    Use your 14x5.5" during the winter with all season or winter tires if you get snow, sleet, or freezing rain in your area. The narrower the rim and tire the better for winter conditions.

    I 've been using the Rota Attack 15x6.5" for 3yrs now on my '01 Civic coupe but with 195-60-15 tires for better gas mileage since I have a very long commute. They are only 12.85lbs and they were $425 shipped when I got them. I think the factory steel 15x6" rims were 17lbs. Rota makes like 2 dozen different style alloy wheels so there gotta have something that appeals to you. Their most popular style is the sub-zero which I find very plain looking so that might work out for you. It's a very noticeable difference when you pick up a Rota off the floor and then pick up the Civic 15" steel rim. Most 15" Rotas average 13lbs. 13.2 at the most. They 're pretty strong for every day driving but if you hit a big pothole they 'll get dented. They 're not as strong as an OEM Honda 15x6" alloy wheel that weighs 15-16lbs. You get what you pay for. Honda wheels are very well built with excellent craftsmanship (you can see imperfections on most Rotas). They are built to last and withstand bad city roads.
    Anyway the extra 1/2" of the Rota's width also helps with handling and provides better sidewall support for a 205-50-15 tire under hard cornering. Or keep the 15x6 OEM wheels. I 'm just trying to point out that the wider the wheel the better as long as the weight is reasonable. You don't want to be going narrower and hope you car will handle the same as before.

    The biggest difference with a lighter rim is in the steering and overall response and off course in traction if it's wide enough to support the tire well. Theoretically you also get better gas mileage with them but if you use wider tires than stock, you probably won't see any savings. I didn't because I went up from 185-65-15 to 195-60-15 when I started using the Rotas.

    I 've used the Dunlop D60 A2 (Sport A2 Plus replaced it) with the Rotas, a great HR all season tire. Great performance for the $$. Not so great in light snow but great in the rain and dry. I 've used them twice before in my '97 Civic and liked them a lot.
    They last about 35-40k mi. which was the reason I didn't get the Falken Azenis that last 15k. 40k mi. is 1yr for me or actually 1.5yrs since I use different tires for the NY winters.

    I 've also used my Rotas with Bridgestone RE-950. It's another excellent High Performance All Season tire but costs about $20 more each than the Dunlop. The Bridgeston is better than the D60 A2 in dry and wet traction. Actually my Civic's stock suspension couldn't challenge the RE-950s so I never used them to their full potential. I could never get them to squeal or slide on the street just like the Falkens.
    The new Dunlop Sport A2 which replaced the D60 A2, I believe is almost as good as the RE-950, but when I bought the Bridgestones (in '02), the Dunlop Sport A2 wasn't out then. It came out in '03. I use the steelies for winter and I have found a pretty decent inexpensive all season tire that does well in the snow and is excellent in the rain. The Bridgestone BT-70. Lots of tread for rain and snow but pretty average dry traction. I try not to drive too agressively with these tires. They squeal and will roll over when taking turns or exit ramps fast but they get great gas mileage and are a little less noisy than the other 2. They 're ok in the dry so I don't have to drive like grandma or anything. I still do some spirited driving, I just don't push it as much as I did with the D60 A2's and RE-950's.

    Bottom line you made the right decision keeping the 15x6 but since you mentioned it, getting some 15x6.5" Rotas is probably a better idea to maximize grip. Their 40mm offset is just right too.
  • I don't have the GSR or Type R, but I still enjoy my Integra (2000 LS). I'm not a reckless driver (like crazy man will never say he's crazy) but I do love weave in and out between those lethargic SUVs.

    Due to high milage and now longer covered under the extended warranty, I am trying to trade my car in for something.

    So for all the Integra loyalist, what do you or what would you get to continue to enjoy the performance and handling in a car? (WRX? RX-8? 3-series? G35? IS300? Civic Si?)

    Or is RSX the only choice? (I read somewhere that for RSX, in order to save space in front, the engine is mounted reversely and more towards the bumper, causing weight shifting towards front of the front axles and causing more under-steering.) On and the double-wishbone suspensions in Integra and not on RSX.

  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    "heejoman" - stay away from the RSX... yeah theres that and I've heard of a lot of other problems.... plus the RSX is almost completely different from the integra. Not to mention slow as heck. My friend took a type S in his 91 4D w/ a stock 97 CRV motor (B20) on the freeway with me in his car!!!!! And the type S guy was solo and REALLY pushing it but he just couldn't hang. :P I'm not sold on the K series motors yet.

    If I were you and check out the rant and rave about the new civic Si, I think theres a read up here on Edmunds about it... something about 0-60 in 6.7sec. First I would decide what you really like out of the integra. Because if it's the weight and the quick acceleration maybe check out the new 6spd Miata that I think pushes out 200+ horsies. :shades:

    Anyway... I just found out yesterday that my motor guy has a friend thats been designing a wheel for Rota that he finally got into production. I guess it cost him $12,000 but now he'll get a % of every sale. I had the privledge of seeing the black version and it is so utterly beautiful. Heres the deal... it's 17x7.5 four lug and feels amazingly light weight. Approx. 14-16lbs. It's black with a huge polished lip that is deeper than the width of a dollar bill!! The offset is specifically designed for our tegs so no scraping or modifications are needed. Now obviously 7.5 is an extremely better width than my puny 5.5" or 6" OEM wheels and the weight isn't really an issue because I can feel that it weighs less (without a tire) than my 15x6 (w/ a tire) so my question is... are there any other problems with bigger wheels besides the weight? I should also mention that they posses the structural integrity and non-bendability of OEM wheels so I'm learing really hard towards getting them at some point in the near future ($500 for 4) but I'm just weary of the size issue. :D
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    heejoman: If you can afford G35 and IS300, then maybe you should look at a BMW 325is (2dr) or a used one with the Sports Package. I 've been in a few of them and I have auto-xed my friend's '02 325is. It feels like it has TWICE the torque of an Integra and pulls very strongly but is also very smooth at the same time. It beats a stock GSR form 0 to 50mph with ease, and to 60 I wouldn't be surprised it it were still ahead. I remember seeing one road test where the 325is 5sp. was 7.1s 0-60 but someone told me they saw 6.9sec at another magazine. The Bimmer rides very nicely and handles very well if it has the sports package. Don't even bother looking at a Bimmer without the sports package. They 're like regular family cars. It would be a definite step up from the Integra and they don't feel like big cars because they 're not. I would look at a '02-04 3series. 330 is expensive but a slightly used 325 should be in the $20's.

    RWD cars handle better than FWD cars in general and the IS300 (as well as the Bimmers) is also worth looking into. They 're very agile too. The WRX is plain ugly although there are a lot of aftermarket parts for it out there already that can make it faster and handle better. The stock suspension however sucks and doesn't compare the BMW or Lexus. The WRX's sway bars are small and it also sits pretty high. You 'd have to get aftermarket shocks and lowering springs or coilovers to get it to handle as well as a Bimmer or IS300 which handle well right out of the box.
    The G35 is a fast car of course (it has the 350Z ~280hp motor) but I 've seen it auto-x and it looked heavy (it is bigger than 325 and IS300), had a lot of body roll and didn't do so well even on DOT race tires when a PRO auto-xer was racing it. So since handling and agility are important to you I would not consider the G35 although it's not a bad car at all don't get me wrong. The BMW & Lexus are a step above in the handling, agility and fun factor departments.

    The Mazda Miata is a totally different animal. It's in a different class. It's a 2-seater, much smaller, lighter, and is basically a sportster. No doubt it has the highest fun factor and gets the best handling scores out of the other two but it's not in the same class as the others. You may need a 2nd car if the winters get tough where you live.

    The Civic Si would cost you the least and it sounds like it's a hit this time but it's still a FWD car (and it's still a Civic). Since you mentioned RWD cars, the best choice for me would be one of those but I woudn't consider the RX-8 (kind of slow for its looks - but looks good, reviews were mixed), G35 (is bigger/heavier but probably the faster of the bunch), nor the WRX. I 'd get the '06 Si before I considered a WRX or G35. I think the new Civic Si will provide Type-R performance or better.

    Since you pointed out $30K cars, have you considered an S2000? If you ever thought about a Miata, take a look at the S2K which would most likely beat a Miata in every category and only costs a couple of thousand $$ more. Miatas are not cheap. Never have been. The S2K would actually be my first choice but that's because I need a car that wins races if and when I sell my Integra. S2K's now are 2.2L and have more torque down low (lower RPM's). The red line is no longer at 9K but it's been lowered to 8K (like GSR). No need to wind it up to get power.. The power comes on early on compared to older S2K models. I auto-xed one and it was awesome! I fell in love with it. They can be had for $3-4K under sticker. There was a guy at the last racing event who said he got his '05 S2K for $28.9K (+tax). Sticker is $33.8K I believe. He got it for $4,900 under sticker which is probably $2K under dealer invoice.
    Good luck with your choice.
  • I just bought a 92 acura integra and it is an auto 4speed Blaa lol but i was looking for catback exhaust and i was wondering two things :confuse:

    1 most catbacks i have been looking at are all suggested to fit the 5 speed manual can i put it on my automatic??

    and 2 are there any sites that anyone here suggests for good prices on cold air intakes and exhaust systems??? thanx for the help im a new import owner
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Three series? THREE SERIES!?!?!??! :mad: What kind of integra fan are you?!!??! Especially 2001+ has had major recalls and electrical problems aside from the fact that you mentioned... they're soooo slow. And if you're gonna go the extra mile why not a 94+ M3. I've never ridden in a 3series w/ the sports package so I won't comment further, but hte way I see it, why waste your time with the cupcake when you can have the whole Tiramisu for the same price or less. The insurance on an older M3 will be very similar to any 3series made in the last 5yrs and you'd get way more lux for your bux$$$! :shades:

    And I would stay far away from the temptation of the IS300, despite the fact the make manual tranny versions. They're still new and overpriced not to mention also very slow. I've seen them get torn to pieces by moderately modded civics (w/full interiors) - and for me, any car that has trouble hanging with a car worth less than half of it.....well, ya know.

    I'd stick with Harry's s2k idea because those things really rock and they look a lot meaner than any miata. And like Harry seemed to be implying, go with the much newer one because of the reasons he mentioned and the fact that the car looks a lot more aggressive too.

    Another possibilty thats very commonly over looked and is in the same price range is the Dodge SRT-4. It's around $20,000 brand new and can take EVO's and WRX's on the straight away (stock vs. stock) w/ a good driver. They don't have too much for handling but Mopar makes three "stage kits" for it that beef up the turbo, injectors, etc. It's the only car I would buy brand new at this point and in my opinion: THE BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK EVER!!!! My friends got a black one and even though he has no clue what to do with it (mods-wise) it's really fun to drive and the Viper seats are so so comfertable! :blush:

    Harry, what about my wheel question!?!? if you take two integras (exactly the same) and you have a set of 17x7.5 wheels on one and a set of 15x6 wheels on the other and lets just say (theoretically) that the tires are exactly the same (I know not possible) and the weight of the 17s is the same as the 15s..... what, if any would be drawbacks in performance given this scenario???

    And what happened to Garados? did he just drop off the radar screen?
  • garadosgarados Posts: 321
    sorry I haven't been replying, school's been intense lately.

    Hmm, as far as the 17 vs 15" wheel thing, even if they weigh the same, the 17 will be "heavier." What I mean by that is that the bulk of the mass is farther out. If I recall correctly, it's called the moment of inertia. Anyways, an easy way to think about it is that since the weight is out farther, it'll be harder for the engine to get them spinning, therefore, they'll have to be much lighter than the 15's to offer the same ease of rotation.

    Now, going with the 7.5 vs 6" debate, the 7.5" width will obviously win out. What is that, a 215 or 225 or even shoving a 235/45 on there ... that'd be cool. Anyways, I had 215/40/16's on my integra, and I didn't have any problems with rubbing, even with a 3" drop (I was a ricer once ....) but what I'm trying to say is that I got lucky. A lot of people have had rubbing issues with 215's. I'm sure it's possible to run a 225+, but it won't be easy finding a wheel with the correct offset.

    For the battle of new cars and their handling and acceleration, I have no comment, for I'm in the same boat in the upcoming years. I'm really looking at the Golf GTI vr6 or the wrx. The 2006 wrx is now coming with the 2.5 liter turbo motor, so the low-rpm lag is basically gone now, so I'm quite excited about that fact. I guess it's time for me to ... grow up? I want a car that can get out of its own way (i.e. faster than the miata) while still looking good and having a nice interior. I don't want it to start looking like a theft recovery like my integra did or have massive body damage like the miata. So other than that, I'm not too picky about the new car =P However, I'm not sure about insurance and the sort or if that applies to many people but me =P
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    touchfall: Sorry to hear you have an automatic Integra :(

    I 've bought a lot of stuff from (now they 'll tell me I 'm soliciting and erase this post as they 've done several times this year - this sensoring is getting worse. Forum sensoring was the reason Prodigy lost 2Mil. users to AOL and finally closed its doors - I worked for P* for 9yrs, I know..).

    This company includes shipping in their pricing on everything over $100 (or $150). Exhausts are heavy in general and the boxes are large so that's what you want. They have decent prices and ship very very fast. I 've been buying stuff from them since '00. I 've bought brake pads from them, AEM intake, and a couple of headers and some other stuff. Always get my stuff in 3 days after I order because they usually have everything they advertise in stock (make sure you ask them). They also have in stock everything AEM makes (they don't make exhausts). They 're a very large AEM distributor. I usually get a new AEM filter for my intake from them every couple of years.
    An exhaust won't do anything for your car because everything else is stock on it. It will only make it louder. You might notice a slight difference at high speed, or very high RPM's (like near redline, if you can hit redline with your auto..).

    If your car is not lowered you might want to consider a Cold Air Intake from AEM or Injen. You should be able to feel a little bit of added power even with your auto tranny.
  • only1harryonly1harry Posts: 1,136
    I meant to answer your question the other day but got busy so here it is. Bascially what Phoy told you but with more elaboration:

    Yes, it takes more force to get a 17" wheel moving than a 15" of equal weight. The car with 17" wheels will always be slower than the same car with 15". You will also notice a little worse gas mileage with 17".

    The moment of intertia, as Phoy mentioned, is higher for a 17" wheel. A 15" wheel has a lower moment of inertia and that's what you want in a wheel if you are serious about this stuff or you race like we do, where every milisecond counts. I sometimes win by 2 or 3/100ths or a few 1/1000ths of a sec. (1/1000 = 1ms).

    The moment of inertia is basically the measure of how hard it is to get a body of mass to rotate about an axis. The problem for you is, that inside the equation to figure out the moment of intertia, there is an R to the 2nd power. Well that little (or capital I should say) R is the radius of your wheel and it's squared in the equation! I can't remember the entire equatoin but I remember the R square. The resulting # is not good for larger radius wheels vs. those with a smaller (R) radius.
    Quick question for you 90gs: What is the radius in relation to the diameter in a 17" wheel?

    If you decide to go with 16" or 17" wheels, you also want to make sure the circumference of the new tires is not larger than that of a 205-50-15", otherwise you 'll be changing the gearing (to taller gears) adding to the slowness of your car.
  • 90gs90gs Posts: 107
    Now I'm remembering back to physics and this all makes sense... Aside from the mass of the spinning object (in this case a wheel) you must take into consideration the radius b/c that is the variable that is even more important b/c, like you said, it is squared. I think it goes something like F=ma/r[squared]. But that would only seem to effect the total wheel size (including tire) so if I stick to the 205/50-15 total diameter, as you suggested, I should be fine on that note. :P But I think what you guys are both referring to would have something to do with the center of mass or CONCENTRATION of that mass. Now that I remember my physics teacher showed us a ring and a hockey puck with the same total diameter and same total mass but obviously the hockey puck had much more of its mass closer to the center than the ring which was completely open in the center. He put them both at the top of an incline and let them go at the same time and the ring was noticably slower than the hockey puck. I guess if I had remembered that earlier I would have answered my own question! :)

    So now (as if the horse wasnt already dead :sick: ), let me verify this last idea of wheel width. So lets take the Hx Rims (14x5.5) and put them up against the GSR Rims (15x6).... again negating the weight issue as much as possible.... I'm I correct in thinking that the greater the width, the more traction and so the 15x6 would be better at drag racing than 14x5.5 (assuming that greater width adversly affects handling... I dunno though). Actually, ya know what. You've already talked me out of the 17x7.5 Rotas.... so lets deal with the Hx and GSR's as-is....

    Hx - 14x5.5, weight = 11.75lbs, mass concentrated slightly closer to center
    GSR - 15x6, weight = 15lbs, mass concentrated slightly further from center

    Considering these three underlying factors, which should I be most concerned about and which has a greater overall effect on performance, what is that effect and which wheel is the overall winner in this competition??
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