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Acura Integra GSR Customizing and Modifying
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Comments
The 15's will be the better choice in this comparison. They're fairly light and wide enough to put a piece of rubber on there that'll make you quite happy in grip and response. Also, there are more high performance tires for the 15's than the 14's. I've been privilidged to drive my old car with 205/55/14 kumho victoracers and it was absolutely incredible. The only other tire I have experience with is the falken azenis in a 195/60/14. The 15's offer MUCH more selection.
Than I did a reality check... If Honda put the 14x5.5 rims on a civic (96-97) that was a non-perfromance but good gas mileage car than would that really be an upgrade for me? However my car (GS) started out with 14x5.5 alloy wheels that actually weighed about 15lbs so yes it would be!!!! but than I though, assuming Honda, er, acura has been continuously trying to improve their integra, they went from my 14x5.5 (1990-1993, even the GSR of that time, hooray for B17!!!) to 15x6 for another 7yrs (94-2001) than it would appear that they DID find the best rims for our car!!!
I mean doesn't Honda/Acura put much more time into their R&D than us consumers do?!?!?!
There are of course 14" tires that can easily handle 2,670lb (+driver & passenger) GSR's, but they would have to be like 215-65-14's or 205-70-14" (195-75-14", etc.) like I used to put on some of my 70's american beater cars I owned in the 80's that weighed ~2900-3100lbs. ie: higher profile tires would be needed that are also harder to find these days. Not very practical on a sporty coupe that you want to make the best FWD handling car (back in the mid-90's many magazines called the GSR the best handling FWD car).
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Mike
If I were going to do it, I'd go to about 11:1 compression and leave it there. Get some cams that'll take advantage of the compression, and then get it tuned.
As for parts, if you go with 11:1 compression, you shouldn't need to upgrade the fueling system, but you might. If you do, bigger injectors and/or a high-flow/pressure fuel pump will be needed as well as a fuel pressure regulator or some sort of tuning device.
For physical hardware, you're going to need pistons, piston rings, wrist pins, and the necessary installation tools. Along with that, you'll need to hone the cylinders in order to get a good seal with the rings. You'll also need seals and gaskets. If you want me to go over EVERYTHING you need, then I will. Just know this, if you do get new pistons, just rebuild the whole motor, it'll save you time and money.
-Mike
If you're looking for a slight boost in N/A power without a rebuild, then I'd recommend the bolt-ons: intake, header, high-flow cat, exhaust. Then go deeper with the modifications such as a bigger throttle body, slightly aggressive cams (more aggressive = head modifications and higher compression), and maybe an intake manifold.
When I did my engine rebuild, I stuck with stock compression but with forged pistons. I was planning on turboing the motor, but then I had an unfortunate event which stopped that plan dead. Anyways, the only "modification" I did was to go 20 over (20 thousands in diameter ... or radius, I'm not sure =P ) and open up the intake valve seats about a millimeter in diameter. In doing the valve seats, the intake ports opened ever so slightly and I realized a big increase (it was noticable even in the initial break-in) in power. The added displacement from the overbore was nice as well. If my calculations were correct, I was above 1800cc's (b18c1/5 are about 1780cc's, b18b's are 1800+) afterwards.
I did an intake, header, testpipe, exhaust, ITR cams, 7 lb flywheel, and an ACT HDSS clutch, and the car was a beast. I could beat ITR's in the straights as well as the turns and braking, so my 4door was easily one of the fastest N/A fwd cars at the time that was racing at the track.
Of course, all b-series motors take well to boost, and that's a fact. While it is a massive 1-time investment, it'll be cheaper in the overall picture and has the possiblity for more power later on.
Here's another question, you have ~25-27000 to spend on a new (emphasis on new) street car. What would you get in ~1.5-2 years? 27000 is my absolute upper limit. I've been looking at the Golf Gti, WRX, Civic Si, Scion TC, and the RSX-S. Considering I've only driven the old WRX and a Scion TC, my experience is limited. Any opinions would be appreciated ^_^ Oh yeah, I'm keeping the miata as my impractical car, so not another miata =P
There is a guy in my local SCCA club who is extremely fast with his CSP Miata with 450F/350R so your choice sounds pretty good. They had to kick this guy out of the novice class 2yrs ago in mid-season, because he was just too far ahead of all the other 1st year novices. He uses GC's Advance Design shocks though which I 'm sure make a big difference too. Speaking of which, I still haven't sent mine back to to GC to have them rebuilt.
To answer your question, if I had $25-27K to spend and needed a more "practical car" (otherwise S2K would be my choice), but was limited to the 5 cars you mentioned, I 'd probably go for the Civic Si because it is all new. New chassis, newer technology, etc. But that is NOW, because the RSX, WRX, and GTI are old. They 've been in production for 5+yrs.
1.5-2yrs from now (it's nice to fantasize once in a while, hehe) who knows what the RSX-S or the WRX would be like? It's certain they 'll have more power, maybe even look better, handle better, who knows? That is if we 're talking about NEW cars, not used. You can be sure there will be new RSX and WRX models within a year or two. The Scion TC is not a bad looking car and well worth the money but it's not in the same class as the others. It's heavier, built cheaply from what I read as an economy car to keep the price down while still delivering respectable power & torque. The TC weighs >2900lbs. If it weren't for its 163ft-lbs of torque it 'd be an average car just a little faster than my wife's CRV which has the same HP and Torque. Now I think the TC does 0-60 in the mid-7's and has the least power in the group. Still a a whole second slower than the others so that would probably be my last choice or 4th. The GTI would most likely be my last choice because is just plain ugly and well just plain looking. It hasn't changed much in 2 decades. Since I 'm nearing 40, I 'd probably spend the $27K on a different cars than these 5, but that's just me.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
As far as what I want to do with the miata, I'm sticking to daily driving and auto-x until I get the new car, then it's becoming a spec miata. I think 350 lb/in in the miata will be the max I would want to go with on the street. I had 350's on the integra and it was nice and smooth on the street, but I'm not sure how the miata will react to the same spring rate =P
Well if I had a shorter commute than the 160mi. one I have now, I 'd be looking at slightly used Bimmers, 3series or a late 90's M3 (240hp) which can easily be had for $20K or less. My first choice of course would be a used S2K for like $25K + tax should come close to $27K. I found a few '05 S2K's 4sale. These people are just sick. They just want a new car every year or 2. One guy was selling his '05 S2K with only 9k mi. on it because he wants some new color that's available for '06. He was asking $28K (you can buy them new for 29K). He ended up selling it for $26K. He didn't care. People just have the money and when they make up their mind to buy something else they just want to sell the old and not wait for the best offer.. That's good for you the buyer. That's what you want.
1 - 2yr old cars, even 3yrs old, are very hard to sell because they cost "too much". Those are the cars you usually get the best deals on. My friend got a used '04 S2000 for $23.5K, 28k mi. The guy was asking $25K but couldn't sell it. I think my friend got a great deal since the guy only bought it in April '04. So the car was less than 1.5yrs old when he got it.
Now if I had a choice between a new RSX-S, WRX or a 1.5yr old S2K for $23.5K, I 'd be all over the S2K.
Check out the performance tests on the link below. I 've also seen 13.6s in the 1/4 and 5.2 to 60mph in MotorTrend, (also 113ft 60-0), but these are very close and probably more realistic:
http://autos.yahoo.com/newcars/honda_s2000_6spdmt_2005/16022/style_performance.html?refsrc- - - - =offnetwork%2Fcpc%2FPI
Now go look at the specs of WRX and RSX, especially the braking, roadholding and slalom speeds.. 115ft 60-0 is NSX, Ferrari & Porsche stopping distances (Type-R did 120ft). But the S2K is not practical and it's not a car you drive in the winter so a Bimmer, RSX or Civic Si would also be good choices with high scores in the fun-to-drive department. Just remember, $25-27K can get you a LOT of car, if you 're not limited to new cars only.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Just get a hybrid and forget about it. Have you seen gas prices?!!? I mean, really it depends on your driving style. If I could afford to have/maintain two cars I know exactly what I would do. I would have a 94-97 cadillac deville or maybe even an '04 civic hybrid (now that I'm thinking about gas prices!) -but basically a cruiser that I can throw some really good speakers (who cares about weight on a cruiser) and just have that be my daily driver. Than I'd keep my Integra (or in your case Miata) and strip it until it's too noisy/uncomfertable to drive on a regular basis. But than I like to tear up the road on a daily basis so I might have my cruiser slightly more on the perfomance side.
NOTE: even though the new accords are getting progressively uglier on the outside, they keep adding more cool stuff on the inside and they've got a hybrid version too. I mean maybe gas isnt a big deal to you but over here it's still over $3 - I'm probably not the right person to talk to about new cars though b/c I dont understand why anyone would basically throw away a few grand (or more) on a brand new car!!! I mean you lose at least $3,000-6000 as you are driving off the lot, for what, a warranty!?!?!?!? A false hope that your new car is going to have less problems than a used one!??!!? My friends w/ new cars have to bring it in for recalls almost all the time!!! More often than I repair my 15yr old Integra!!! My point is: the extra money you lose to a new car can easily be beaten by almost any car 5yrs old or older.... and that extra money can go to modding it (fun) or spending it elsewhere. What do I know though....
For example: Take you're S2K that you want... get the oldest (cheapest) one available to you.... no warranty. Let's say you dont want it to be noisy like your miata.... Bulk Dynamat!!!! It'll be like $200 online and than one Sunday of stripping your car and installing the dynamat and than putting the carpets and seats back in. Huge diff. from your Miata
I have got a laundry list of other "minor mods" that I've done w/ my friends to make "old cars" way nicer & cooler than newer, more expensive cars. I'm still trying to bulid this webpage thing in my spare time so I can show you guys what I've done to this Integra as far as "customizing and modifying" goes.... it's actually come a really long way since I first started posting a few months ago. It's actually in the shop right now (I've been taking the bus to work ) and I'm getting some paint fixed and painting some extra parts that I must keep a secret right now... :surprise: , but bottom line, I'm really excited!!!!
Gas prices is the reason I keep getting a DANG Civic every 4yrs. I was planning on getting the '06 Accord LX or EX Coupe manual a few mos ago (they look better than '05 models - they changed the nose, headlights, tail lights, etc.) but the gas prices are not coming down much so I 'm stuck with another Civic that gets 4-5mpg better mileage than the Accord.
At least the Civic has 140hp now and the same torque as a g3 Integra. I wish I had a shorter commute than 80mi. each way, but I 'm not. I 'm not rich either, so I have to buy econo-cars. If I had a shorter commute I 'd have a wider range to chose from and the Si would probably be one of them.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
With my old integra, I was lowered ~3" with 215/40/16's and had slight rubbing in the rear from the width, and the tires were tucked about half an inch, but absolutely NO suspension travel. Now, according to this ...
http://miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
if you go with a 215/35/18, you're tire will be about .5" higher than my setup, so the tire will be way in the wheel well.
If you are dead-set on getting 18's, get adjustable-height springs so that you can get the ride height how you want. If the car still "looks" too high, then get a body kit. Anyways, I enjoy the look of 14-16" wheels on integras, with 16's being just a little too big for my taste. Harry and I race our cars, so we use small, light-weight wheels with sticky rubber. Seems to me that 90gs is also trying to get into that game as well.
Finally, be prepared for a massive loss of performance in acceleration, braking, handling, and gas milage with the addition of 18's.
The engine, though, is what gets me. I think it's the same one from the celica gts. It redlines at ~8000 rpm and pulls nice and hard up to redline. I'm not sure what I was hearing, but there was a definite change in the engine note at about 4500 rpm and then another at about 6500-7000 rpm. Perhaps a dual stage intake manifold and a cam switchover?
I didn't get to toss it around in the turns, but it comes with upgraded suspension, and it looks like some wierd-[non-permissible content removed] beam across the rear wheels. I didn't know what to think of that ... so I'll go to braking. That car stopped on a dime and they were very easy to modulate. This car is definitely one of the ones I'm going to consider when the time comes.
You 'd have to do fender modificiations or fabrications to fit 18x8" wheels on there unless you raise the car at least 1.5". Only then they will fit but you will still have rubbing on the inside when turning because 8" width is just too much for an Integra, unless the wheels have an offset of 30mm or less but then they would look funny extending beyond the fenders. 17x7" is more doable and 17x7.5" is manageable but not easy.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
If you guys do have any suggestions on what to do if my engine isn't found feel free. Right now i'm just glad to have my car back.
Also, since we're on the subject, I was wondering if one of you guys could verify this info. I heard that the new Lotus is basically just a tiny, stripped car with some sort of celica engine. And most of the performance comes from the amazing power/weight ratio. Is this true?
90gs: yeah, it's a DOHC motor. As far as the Lotus goes, it's running the 2zzge motor (out of the celica, but it makes 190 hp, the camry xrs has ~170). It's quite an amazing car because of teh power to weight ratio combined with suspension and grippy tires, it makes for a wonderful machine.
What squeezes those extra 20HP out of the lotus? better air flow?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
The only concern i still have is that my brand new Skunk2 exhaust and AEM cold air weren't with all the other parts. They say its probly still at the guys house but... i can't go get it without the police and they cant go searching without the consent of the owner. I'm no expert in law or anything but wouldn't you think that if my parts are at his house i would have the right to get them? I just don't undertand how i could be just 'out' that money if it is mine. At least i have my car
Jebbidiah, I'm not sure on the nitty-gritty, but if I had to guess, it'd be from ecu calibrations, intake and exhaust tuning, and maybe fiddling with cam timing.
Now, ususally, I'd stay away from modified cars, just because they're abused and the parts are ghetto-rigged to fit, but I know this isn't the case. I wired the e-manage into it and helped with the fuel-line and additional injector installation. Also, it's been driven nicely because my brother owned the car before me =P
I'll give a full report in the upcoming weeks when I take full possession of the car.
I'm slowly starting to get regrouped after my car theft fiasco last week. Motor mounts and accelerator cable should be coming in tommaro sometime, so the engine should be dropped in soon... hopefully. I re-orderd all of my parts (AEM cold air, Skunk2 exhaust, and shift knob/ short shifter) today. Police told me that once they get all the papers sorted out they'd set a court date and get that guy in jail.
I was looking at some type r pistons last night when i was browsing for my replacement parts. Garados, i know you told me about high compression pistons but does the same case of being to costly for the results apply. I'm not looking for a huge performance boost, just wanting some extra power while i'm in the "to boost... or not to boost" stage. Type r pistons aren't looking too expensive unless i have to upgrade ecu, fuel system, valve train, and all that stuff in order to make the upgrade effective, but i guess that where your expert opinions come in :P
If you want a little boost in power, look into 98+ integra type r cams or civic type r. If your budget doesn't allow both the intake and exhaust cams, then just the intake will be good. It's basically a bolt-in, drop in deal. It'll net you a MUCH better midrange if you have the capability to change the vtec crossover. If you can't, they'll still give you noticable gains after ... 5000 rpm or so, if I recall correctly.
Just an example on how well the cams work ... I had just put them into my 4-door gsr. I had a short-ram intake and a 2.25" cat-back exhaust, lightened flywheel and an upgraded clutch. Well, shortly after putting the cams in and breaking them in (idle for ~15-20 minutes), I went for a drive and it was absolutely wonderful. The car felt much more responsive. So here's the good part. I ran across another gsr. It was a 98+ 2door with an intake, header, test pipe, and exhaust. We did a quick skirmish on the "freeway" on the east side of town and went from about 20-75 mph. to about 35 mph, we were even, then from there on out, I just kept pulling on him. So, for 400 bucks, I think that cams will be the most impressive modification you do to the car.
I 'm saying this because my friend last year had installed both intake & exhaust Type-R cams on his '95 GSR plus some cam gears, Jun or Skunk2 ones I think. Now he didn't have anything tuned. Like you said, he just dropped them in. Everything else was stock in his car except for some cheap 4-2-1 header he had bought for $189 (some cheap off brand - can't remember) from Ebay. His car didn't feel faster than mine or as fast as mine when I went for a ride with him. He redlined 1st & 2nd and then slowed down. I think mine was a little faster than his. Mine had 158.3whp last summer just from the DC header, cold air intake & lighter flywheel (no exhaust). It could have been because his GSR had 140k mi. on it and had possibly lost some compression in the cylinders. Not sure.
If I recall you rebuilt your motor and put some other stuff in it, no? If anything just the rebuilt alone without the cams would have made your car faster than a GSR with many miles on it, but I hear you about the seat of the pants noticeable difference. My friend said the same thing but he was lacking basic bolt-ons that could have made his much faster. Cams need a nice upgraded exhaust system all the way through from the header to the muffler plus an intake to suck in more air. There was this guy that used to auto-x with his '96 GSR (haven't seen him since '03). He also had cams and gears. One day I noticed his car looked faster and his times were better too. I asked him what he did, and he said he just got a 2.25" RSR exhaust and his car was noticeably pulling harder.
Wouldn't you think cam gears would also be nice since you 're in there already installing the cams? Or did you not recommend them because cam gears usually need some dyno tuning?
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
Give us ...
1) year
2) complete trim level
3) engine code (if it's swapped, let us know)
4) perhaps a picture
The only 1.7L motors that I've heard of (I'm not sure beyond 2000, though) was from the 92-93 integra gsr. It was a b17.
In answer to your question they put a 1.6 in the Si until 2000 and than for 2002 they put in the 2.0 which makes me assume that b/c the shop is telling you have the 2.0 that you've got that newer, ugly looking one that Honda really screwed up on. Just trade it in for the '06 civic... its way faster and way prettier... or if you're really stuck on the 1.7 maybe just look for a 92 GSR Integra and you can save a lot of money, mod it to be faster than your current civic and you can appropriately input to this "Acura Integra" forum!
My new issue... this weekend we pull my 98 LS block apart and I'm pretty much sold on rebuilding it with whatever OEM parts really need to be changed. However there are some internal upgrades that I want to ask you (particularly Garados) abou...
ACL main/rod bearing: I heard these are much stronger/better than OEM.
Manley/Eagle Rods: will these screw stuff up if I plan on NOT sleeving? Can they be used with OEM pistons&rings?
The main reason (aside from money&time) that I don't want to do forged pistons & rods is b/c of the extra heat they cause which would obligate me to sleeve or put a block gaurd on it. Don't forget I'm going to hone the block, balance the rotating assembly, and maybe even get 'em shot peened, dunno yet.
So I guess what I want to know is what can I get away with!?
As far as forged stuff increasing heat and whatnot, I don't believe that's the case. I ran forged pistons on stock sleeves in my gsr without a problem.
Hmm, I'm not too sure about the bearings. Just be sure to plastigage across the WHOLE friction surface. I say that because I messed up and checked the clearance on the middle of the rod. Thing is, the bearing was too wide and was binding on the outer edge of the friction surface. If I had plastigaged across the whole thing, I would have seen that. Just be careful.
Oh yeah, there's a trick to getting the correct bearing for each connecting rod and main bearing. There are numbers and letters stamped in the block and on each rod. You match those up to a table and it tells which bearing should be used. The bearings (from Honda) will be color coded.
When you do the rings, if you have the ability to grind them down to the proper thickness, gap them a little more if you plan on turbo'ing the car. This will allow you a little more expansion before the rings expand to the point where they bind and lock the piston into the cylinder. Of course, this is only applicable to the compression rings, not the oil ring and spacers. Be very very careful not to knick the ring at all. That will make the ring bad and it won't seal for crap.
Good luck with the buildup and tell us how it goes!
I have recently acquired news sponsors for my racing efforts which will allow me to build up my TEG for some events in Canada. Namely Ontario Touring Car Series and Targa Newfoundland. I am reporting on the build at my race site: blinkracing.com which is just starting.
The car an 00 GS TEG is in mint low mile condition and has been used in Solo events. The car is loaded w/leather etc.
I have come to grips with the fact that I am building this car and not buying a ready made. Reasons are numerous but manly I have alot of parts from a previous R that I want to build. Plus a friend of mine was twice chased at gunpoint in Toronto for his R. They tried to steal it 3 times.
So I've decided on a sleeper R.
GS + gobs of mods = frankenR but track friendly, able to take co-pilot for Targa and modded back to roundy round car for the rest of the time.
This also means the complete leather interior with airbags and steering wheel are going to be sold around Jan-Feb. Offers? Hood, sunroof and trunk lid also.
So I joined and will be back to post.
Glad to be here and hope this interests you folks.
Cheers
Charlie
"I suppose I should be glad that the kangaroo was hunched down when we hit it at 190kph" -- Petter Solberg
Cheers
Charlie
My car choice at link title is explained here.
I am building this 00 TEG to end up with a backup car for rentals. I am planning on putting 2 more cars into the fray.
Currently I am negotiating to get an RSX to build into the identical team car and I have a 03 993 which will be introduced for the 07 season. At least 2 of these cars of the 3 will be available to rent for Touring Car and Targa Newfoundland in 2007.
Currently the 993 is Stage 3 and too fast for me so it stays a street car for now. That build starts Nov 06.
I hope that got your gander up.
So there it is a new time with possibilities. Anyone got good input or interested in booking rental ahead?
If anything the Targa Newfoundland is a must do.
Check them out at link title
2200 kms with 500 kms of Speeding!
I'm also very curious to see what you do with the engine. What are the rules that you'll be following with the buildup of the engine as well as the rest of the car?
-Phoy
That must be a St. John's joke eh? :-)
Steve, Host
The rules are much the same as the US rules for touring and is only (get this) 8 pages. You can do a lot from stripping for weight to serious engine and suspension mods. There was only 20 cars in the series (BARC Canada) and they are looking for entries. I would think you could push the rules in this series. It runs alongside 3 big events here. 2 molson indy IRL cars and the F1 in Montreal.
Allowed 3 inch min suspension for touring but will have to deal with some rough roads and new roads in NFLD. Too stiff and I'll fly off the road. Or too many rear stiffners may not be good. Thinking Tien adjustable.
Big brakes front, normal rear, falcons az, other suspen components to come. Wing, splitters. Looking for downforce.
Engine mods according to rulebook. Will post that or link it. N/A but could go forced and would be bumped to gt in touring and modified in Targa. It's an option. I'm doing this for excitement so I want a thrilling machine and plan to built something very competitive. Plus I want to blow the doors off some cars that may doubt TEG's ability. MuHaHaHa. So....stroke, head etc. Maybe a transplant. I have been looking.
Marketing: This car will have some wicked sponsors. More to come on that.
Charlie
"If I had only known, I would have been a locksmith."
Albert Einstein
US (German-born) physicist (1879 - 1955)
That is a big question because there is a serious differance in street and track. My concerns are more with safety and if an interior can burn then it's gone. (I have seen)
Fire suppression will be a big part of this car. A lot of racers overlook this aspect.
The car/s will get vinylwraps for ads. Note when you vinyl something it stays new underneath the vinyl. At the end of the season when you peel it off, it's new under the vinyl. Saves paint, east to patch.
So it will be a track/rally car disquised as a street car (without graphics) And will keep it's plate.
Note Targa Newfounland issues a government :shades: plate for the event (see pictures at their site). You replace your plates with it and give it back after the event. I guess it's
A LICENSE TO SPEED PLATE. Can you imagine? :surprise:
Thanks and glad to stumble on this board.
Charlie
TARGA
BLINK Magazine (writers wanted)
"I suppose I should be glad that the kangaroo was hunched down when we hit it at 190kph" -- Petter Solberg
Newf is 19 hours drive from Toronto. then an 8 hour ferry ride to the island.
Note: Organizers in Nova Scotia are bringing an Isle of Man event there in 06 for motorcycles. The East Coast Canada is shaping up to bring premiere motoring events. The gov is even helping. All for Tourism.
I'm born in Montreal not NFLD, in case you think I am a NFLD promoter. Only been there once. But it is supposed to be the friendliest place on earth. Lobster too.
Cheers
Which Teins are you thinking of getting for the Teg and what spring rates? Can you get custom rates and have Tein custom valve the shocks? I currently have the SPSS3 valving (custom) on my Koni Yellows. These shocks are much better suited for road racing and not SoloII with this particular valving.
Before that I had the Ground Control Advanced Design double-adjustable shocks. They were true coilovers because the shocks are threaded unlike the Konis. The AD shocks come custom valved according to the spring rates you order from them or are going to use. They also include your shock dynos whey they ship them. The AD's are also designed more for the track and many people here use them for that. They were great in auto-x too. They don't last too long though and need to be rebuilt every year. They warn you not to drive on the street with them on but my car is not a trailer queen so they broke towards the end of the first season. I 'd hit 130-140mph and there was nothing the car couldn't do with those shocks. They were awesome at high speeds and the Falken Azenis.
'06 Civic LX coupe
'11 BMW 335i coupe xDrive
'13 Honda Accord sedan (wife's car)
I hear you can only run one set of tires with 2 spares and a spacesaver spare. So if you're not to lucky hopefully its stiff enough to run on 3 wheels to limp into the next town.
I have a Falken Sponsor.
We have the same solodeux as the USA.
Racing in Canada Eh
Here's a link to the local race body if interested. Note many Americans come ElNorte to race. Most have far more exoctic machinery than us. Lot's of Amarican entries at the Targa NFLD. I used to go down to Sebring for the 12 hours with a Camaro in the early 90s. I mostly went to learn how to cheat from the good ole boys. And then bring that back here. Did I just say that?
Suspension. Your advice is wonderful. I don't know enough yet to say. I will be talking to some racers who did this event last year. But I think Tein has this adjustable setup. From 1 to 4 inch drop. Rules say 3" min ride height. I can live with that. Plus my sponsor IACTech in Mississauga may want to put something else on.
Besides the track which, other than the odd guard rail is just fields and you may end up with dirt in places dirt can't go.
Targa on the other hand has cliffs...huge ditches, more cliffs. Giant rocks....why Newfoundland is called the Rock...A Porsche hit some rock in the 05. Toatalllled. Very bad. So must keep it on road.
How's it go?
If you can get through the course without lifting ....you need a faster car!
I like the sound of that 140mph Falkens no problemo.
Only1, thanks for your shocking input and look forward to more interaction. You could post to my race blog anytime. I'm just figuring out this Movable Type an it's workin'.
BLINK Racing
By the way I have links on my sites to the Hans Stuck video, Gumball 3000 and some of my magazines.
I clicked on entry form for the Ultimate Rally - It's not a rally it's a Race (Gumball 3000)Start here Kimpire (Gumball 3000)
Link is on Kimble's home page, the sick puppy that he is. Anyhow I clicked on the entry form....sold out! What...100 cars.
So book for 07. Okay.
Note: They have pictures of Ferraris cut in half there. It's crazy and have heard nut drivers are among the racers. But a serious targa team could win it. Keep you car glued to Kimbles car. He has pre-run it.
Cost?
30000 Pounds or ? 50K US! Entry fee.
Plus a fast car etc. You should see the entry form and what you get.
Of course this is an illegal race and although I showed my sponsors that DC Sports had 3 highly artistic Subys entered and were on the cover of mags everywhere. They of course being a corporation will probably say no. Cause tis illegal.
First prize. 2 million ! with cash payout at 1 of 4 stages paying 50K US first place stage win on downward to 5th. (10K)
Cheers
Charlie
Also Blue printing and balancing will give you lots more power. And it will feel like smoother power.
Cheers
Charlie
Unless we change direction, we are likely to wind up where we are headed.
Chinese Proverb
I was checking and found out that the SCCA? runs touring car series in the states and Acura has a contingency plan payable to Acura 02 newer and pre 01.
Pre 02 Payouts: 4000 1st (Pretty good for a TEG!)
02 + : 7500 1st (RSX Holy cow than 10K CDN!)
This would make me want to run in the US. But I'd get my pants whipped. And all that travel.
You guys enter down there. You win. Take the money from Acura and then you can enter the Targa Newfoundland.
Seriously, check it out. Serious dough! More than most manufacturers.
Sorry not available in Canada ? What? Discrimination.
We don't use any American products here. Except maybe the runners for our dogsleds. We already have the ice for our igloos.
SCCA SPEED World Challenge
There's actually a stop on the US tour here for this large American Series at Mosport in Ontario. It's 2 hours from where I live or 1 hour 10 minutes by 993.
So I scoured the contingency page looking at all this money all these sponsors are giving away down there and thought I could get some. Up here. Fine print say's not payable in Canada. I guess that's for American cars too? So the Americans are taking a hit to come up here and race. It's a no wonder none are rushing up. But I guess they have to come for points.
There you see you can come up here and win but it's goin' to cost you. MuHaHaHa
Cheers
Charlie
If I had only known, I would have been a locksmith.
Albert Einstein
US (German-born) physicist (1879 - 1955)