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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • joelk3joelk3 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 model and the top went from being slow coming up to not being able to raise at all. it will go down with no trouble. any ideas
  • kennybkennyb Member Posts: 2
    :) Hi all, just hoping for some advice and general info on my 99 convertible. Never had a Chrysler so I'll need some encouragement.
    First has anyone had a problem with a bad odor from the vent system ? mine does but has no water leaks in the floor as I have read on the postings.
    Thanks Kenny
  • steve309steve309 Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2004 Sebring Conv and this has been the one of two problems I have had so far. Twice the rear defroster cable snapped off the window. It does seem to be installed tight. After the second time they replaced the ENTIRE rear window. It took two days as they needed to remove the entire top. Best result was it has not broken since and I had the top restretched like new in the process.

    The other issue was the radio not getting power sometimes. The dealer replaced it with as new radio. Overall I am pleased with the car and its performance. I have liked the Chrysler so much I just bought a Pacifica for my wife.
  • steve309steve309 Member Posts: 3
    I own an '04 LXI and love it. Bought it new and never had any regrets.Any issues that have come up, the dealer has remedied asap.
  • wetp8ntwetp8nt Member Posts: 2
    WHAT!!!!!!!!!!!!You have read all the messages, correct? These people have a serious quality control issue. Why even take the chance?
  • topalwaysdowntopalwaysdown Member Posts: 1
    Hi All,

    When I have the heater on, it works fine. But when I come to a stop, about half the time the heater stops blowing hot air and starts blowing cool air. As soon as I go (or even if I just rev the engine), it gets hot again.

    Is this the water pump? Or a valve somewhere?

    Thanks!

    Steve
    PS It is a 1997 Sebring JX Convertible, with the bigger V6 motor, automatic tranny, 98K miles, no work done on the motor in the 2 years / 30K miles I've owned it. I'm in Pittsburgh where it's getting down into the 40's already.
  • b_card_eb_card_e Member Posts: 1
    I have the same heating problem with a 2001 Sebring V6 Automatic
  • wetp8ntwetp8nt Member Posts: 2
    just had the tcm replace on my 02 sebring. I asked for a copy of the code readout for both the obd and tcm, was told they dont have such a thing. The car was diagnosed on 10/24/05. Is it to late to get it, and how would I do that. My sixth sense is telling me something is up, and I need to see that print out. The dealership is not going to just give it to me, I"ve tried.
  • joygjoyg Member Posts: 1
    Tonight I got in my car (2000 Sebring Convertible LXi) and after starting it and driving down the road I noticed:
    1) That my speedometer wasn't working; 2) The temperature gauge was slowly moving up; 3) At a slow speed the RPM's were getting high (about to 4,000); 4)The "Check Engine Soon" light came on. No funny noises. The car still starts and everything else seems to be all right. I had it towed to a local repair shop but would like to know the possible culprit before talking to the mechanic. I bought this car used about 1 year ago. Anyone know what is going on with my car?
  • firefighter334firefighter334 Member Posts: 1
    My wife owns a 2001 Sebring LXI she has it now for about 2 - 3 years give or take a couple, we bought it up in Pennsylvania and moved down to Florida, lately we have been having problems with the tires leaking around the rims I have taken it to Walmart and to goodyear to have them look at it. The only thing they have done is cleaned up the wheel added some kinda sealant but it has not helped any. I was told the road salt from up north is eating away the sealant around the wheels. What can I do it fix this problem?

    Question # 2 On the same car the interior lights, door locks, radio, power mirrors, trunk release, and alarm system does not work, I think i blew a fuse but I can not figure it out on where I did I had a friend from work look at it and he couldn't fix the problem either. What can I do?

    Question # 3 Last one, The car has been having problems starting we would turn the key and get nothing and keep trying adventually it would kick over, I am not sure if it is a starter issue or a alternator issue.

    Thanks for all the help guys.
  • 02sebringinne02sebringinne Member Posts: 1
    Have scanned all previous posts and don't see anything related to how to deal with a NON-garaged CLOTH top 2002 Lxi Convertible in New England.
    Specifically, SNOW accummulation will probably be an issue, cold temperatures, and what else?
    (Until a few months ago we have had the car garaged at both home and at work but alas this is no longer possible.. so it is now exposed to the elements 24/7..)
    Your advice is greatly appreciated!!
  • rickziebrickzieb Member Posts: 1
    If you receive a response to this problem, please forward to me. We have the identical problem as you have noted. Ours is s 2001 LXi with 42K miles. Very strange.
  • sebringguysebringguy Member Posts: 1
    I've had my JXI for 3 years, it has 60,000 miles on it. Lately its been running hotter than normal, specifically when in stop and go traffic and low speed situations. I need to turn the heat on to keep it from overheating. It overheated once so I pulled over let it cool down then it ran fine, but it ran at a higher temp than normal. Strange thing is it runs at normal temp on the freeway. I thought this may be an issue with the thermostat. The other night I ran into what seemed to be a very knowledgeable mechanic that said he specialized in Dodge/Chrysler. He claimed my problem wasn't my thermostat but that it was a tempature sensor and this problem was very common with the 2.5v6. He also claimed that I could pick up a infrared temp gauge and check it my self pre/post sensor and if there was a difference of even a degree or two then I would need to replace it. unfortunetly I don't recall what the name of this sensor was, but he seemed confident that this was the problem and it could be an easy shop free fix. Does this sound right to anyone? I've have a great deal of auto repair experience on early to mid 80 vehicles, but when it comes to trouble shooting newer cars I'm clueless.

    Any help would be appreciated
  • wesley07wesley07 Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever figure out what was going on? My 98 sebring is doing the same thing right now!! please let me know..
  • mrveeemrveee Member Posts: 3
    I have a 98 sebring jxi ltd convertible. When I turn the lights on the dash lights do not come on. All other interior lights work as well as the exterior ones and the auto trans and odometer lights display. Any thoughts as to what would cause this problem? :(
  • mrveeemrveee Member Posts: 3
    When I purcahsed my 98 jxi ltd convertible the original owner had lost the keyless entry keyfob. I purchased one off of ebay that will work with my year. I'm wondering if anyone has knowledged of reprogramming the keyfob so it will recognize my car? :(
  • esherrodesherrod Member Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 LX. It may be the power steering pump or maybe just the belts need changing or tightening. I am currently having the same problem, too. If belts don't work, try looking into the pump. But I would take the cheapest way, first.
  • esherrodesherrod Member Posts: 2
    I have a '95 Sebring LX. I've had it for a little over a year and have recently starting having problems. The biggest one now is what I think is the fuel pump or maybe a filter, I don't know. But it turns over, it just doesn't start up. Is there anyway I can test these theories before putting it in the shop? I can't be without transportation!!!
  • ingrammcingrammc Member Posts: 6
    make sure everything is quiet and turn your key to the on position do not turn it all the way to crank the engine you should hear a hum that is your fuel pump, and if it is humming its most likely working. if you not hearing the hum you can also get under the hood and thier is this chrome/aluminum rod that feeds fuel to your injectors. on this rod is a little plastic colored cap and under that is a valve that looks like a tire valve and stem. be careful and use something to depress the stem if fuel shoots out you fuel pump is working. A friend recently had a similar problem with a ford. It sounds like you have water in your fuel tank. with this recent fuel crunch some less than reputable gas stations have been selling less than reputable fuel.
  • ingrammcingrammc Member Posts: 6
    I am new to this and I don't know if any one has helped you on this problem yet. I had a similar problem on a dodge Ram you could have a large amount of corosion/Rust build up on the cables attached to your starter. Replacing your starter would probably fix it but is not necessary just unbolt the wires from the starter and clean them with a small wire brush or sand paper you may consider removing the starter and cleaning the areas where it bolts to the engine, I think that it grounds at those points. I also thought it was a problem with my theft deterent system. You can have the system bypassed for about $20 at just about any place that installs car stereos and alarms. systems.
  • ingrammcingrammc Member Posts: 6
    We recently had a similar problem with a 97 as the cars are different it may not be this. our electric fan had stopped working properly. it runs at two speeds and automaticaly kicks on when the A/C is on. here is a way to check if it is working let the engine idle until it gets hot. Make sure the A/C is off if the fan doesn't come on it should be replaced. it will work while the A/C is on but while the A/C is on it will not run at a fast enough speed to cool the engine. It needs the extra juice from the temperature sensor to run faster. It's weird and can be deceiving since you think the fan is working but it isn't working properly. Also just general knowledge when you are driving over 45 miles an hour their is enough air flow over the radiator to keep any engine cool. if it began to overheat traveling at high speeds pray it's your thermostat because if your water pump goes it is going to cost you big $$ to fix. Also dont rule out that your temperature sensor might be bad and is not sending the electrical juice to the fan you can use a trouble light to figure it out. once your engine begins to run hot you can unplug the fan and check to see if any power at all is being sent to the fan. if no power is getting to the fan it's probably the sensor. sensors are cheaper than fan motors. I would suggest a junk yard to buy the whole fan motor and shrowed it will make the replacement easier. We found a brand new complete one at a junk yard for $120 vice the $300 we would have paid for just the motor at the dealership. Don't waste your time going to part stores they'll say they have a motor that will work but trust me it wont.
  • ingrammcingrammc Member Posts: 6
    Jed I hope this gets to you before you do any costly repair I just posted a message to another problem the mesage is #413 like one of the other replys I think it is your fan even though it is running it may not be running fast enough. this same problem stumped me for a long time. I hope that Janet from message #317 also sees this before she takes it to a garage and possibly spends alot for repairs I've read over alot of this forum tonight. and I think I have seen every one of the problems on my wifes 97. Also I am not a mechanic so I could be very wrong but most cars these days run with a sealed cooling system. Any trapped air shouldn't stay trapped for long it will soon be pusshed out by the coolant and evntually escape through the overflow. wich may be where the leak was coming from for janet in message #317 Her vehicle may just have been spewing hot coolent from her overflow, its what that little nosile hole at the top is for.
  • antoniog01antoniog01 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 98 Sebring that one morning suddenly would not start. I have replaced the fuel filter and gas seems to be getting to the engine, we have replaced the distributor, coil, rotor and plug wires. We took one plug wire and plug out, cranked the car holding the plug/wire close to a ground, "No spark or arch". Their is current coming out of the coil but the car just cranks, it won't fire up.
    Any ideas,
    image
  • drywindshielddrywindshield Member Posts: 4
  • drywindshielddrywindshield Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 Chrysler Sebring, my windshield washer does not work, the wipers work fine. We tried replacing the multi function switch, still not working, the holes are not clogged, does anyone has any other suggestions....PLEASE HELP
  • phil17phil17 Member Posts: 4
    I had the same problem

    Have them check the ground wire behind the headlights
  • kmnkmn Member Posts: 3
    I have a 2001 limited and have owned it since day 1. I live in Boston and have never had a problem w/ the snow on the top. It is vert easy to clean off. I turn my car on in the morning and let it warm up w/ the snow still on the roof, then when it is warm I use a brrom and push the snow off. That should work.
  • kmnkmn Member Posts: 3
    I have had my rear view defroster repaied 9 times at the dealership. As I write this it is being repaired for the 10th, yes 10th time. The dealership accused my of doing 2 things

    #1 using the space that the top fold into as storage space (which by the way I don't)

    #2 pulling the wires off the window on purpose because I like having my car in the shop.....
    :mad:
  • bigdog10bigdog10 Member Posts: 3
    Hi Oldengineer,

    I saw the reply you made to "raymo1" about chaanging the lightbulb in his 2001 Sebring, but I have to disagree,
    unless I mis-understood something here ?

    I have the same problem, and must replace the "drivers" side lightbulb. This side is different from the passenger side, as it has absolutely no space behind the headlight to insert your hand. At least the passenger side is accessible.

    The only way to remove is as you stated, is to remove the two screws holding the headlight assembly. After doing this however, I could not slide the headlight assembly forward. Doesn't seems to want to slide out or budge.

    Is there another screw which must be removed ? Or does a piece of the front cowling have to be removed ?

    I'm frustrated and confused. The dealership offers no help.
    Again, this is a 2001 Sering convertible.

    Any help you could provide would be greatly appreciated!
    You can email me also at "bigdog0609@verizon.net".

    Thanks!
  • bigdog10bigdog10 Member Posts: 3
    Hello,

    I to have a 01 Sebring convertible. Cannot seem to remove the headlight assembly (on driver's side).

    There is absoultely "no room" to get your hand behind to pop-out the bulb. I tried what response you receive from "oldengineer". Basically to remove the two bolts holding the headlight assembly. Even after doing this,
    I could not slide the assembly forward or out of the car.
    Wouldn't budge !

    Is there soemthing else I should know ? Called dealership,
    but they're useless !

    If you were successful in removing the headlight assembly and replacing the bulb, could you please share this information with me. Will be greatly appreciated!

    FYI... Wait until you have to change the battery, good luck! You have to remove the driver's front wheel, and then the outer wheel-well cover. A real trip!

    Those "high-paid" engineers at Chrysler, should be whipped, for some of the designs of this car.

    Thanks for any help you can provide!
  • oldengineeroldengineer Member Posts: 22
    My car was a 2001 4 door sedan. I suspect that the convertible body is different. I suggest you jump on one of the Chrysler forums such as Allpar or automotiveforums and ask the question. I've never even looked under the hood of one of these convertibles so I can't advise further.
  • bigdog10bigdog10 Member Posts: 3
    Thanks for the information, much appreciated!
    I'll check out both these websites.
  • spilmanbpdspilmanbpd Member Posts: 1
    I have a 99 Sebring with 80K miles. I was driving home one day when the accelerator stuck. When you press down on the gas pedal the accelerator sticks, it doesnt unstick if you pump the pedal. I checked the carpet to see if it was that but it wasnt.
    Any idead of what it could be?
  • 97convert97convert Member Posts: 1
    I know it's been a long time since this posting;i just bought a 97 Sebring convertible JXi and have the same problem.if you'd e-mail the pix from that file, I'd really appreciate it.Thanks!
  • iso8605iso8605 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, new 2005 Sebring Touring owner here. Ive been reading some posts and getting a little scared for future problems I may encounter. Any heads up for my Sebring??
    Also there are a lot of Sebrings(Lxi, Jxi, Touring...) where does mine stand in these line ups? Thx in advance
  • ssecrestssecrest Member Posts: 1
    PLEASE HELP. I have a 2000 conv jxi and the seat belts will not work. Everything else in the car is OK, but the belts ( drivers and Pass both ) will not release from the headrest. Is there a quick fix to this problem so that I can pull the belts out. Here in the state of SC it is a hefty fine for not wearing the seat belts. I think the problem is in the control module located under the center console, but until I can get that replaced IS there any way to manually release the belts from the headrest or a way to bypass the locking system so the belts can be used
  • eisojeisoj Member Posts: 3
    This happened to me shortly after I purchased my sebring back in 99 (it's a 2000 jxi limited). I thought the car had become possessed! Took it to the dealership, where I had just had it serviced. Turns out that somebody clipped a wire or something (I'm not a mechanic), and the air intake valve sucked it in and got stuck. The mechanic was very embarrassed, and took a good deal of ribbing from his colleagues. Maybe there's something in your intake valve?
  • eisojeisoj Member Posts: 3
    Did you ever find out what the problem with the fluid was? What about the lugnut problem? Any further occurrences?

    Reason I'm asking? I also have a 2000 Jxi, and am having similar problems (although my lugnuts haven't come off, the sound I'm hearing is the same as you described.)
  • skitzskitz Member Posts: 2
    I have a '97 LXi. The front right caliper seems to grip a LOT harder than the left, and is thus wearing very fast. It wears down within around 30k miles and at this point is now starting to grind. I'm going to replace the rotors, but the calipers are new. Any thoughts? Could there be a kink in the left line, or maybe the bleed valve be open a little? Anyone ever have this happen?
  • bozbostic1bozbostic1 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 LXI I just started having the exact same problem you are. Did you find a solution? I was getting ready to pull starter off, but it looks like a monster of a job. I would like to here if anyone found a solution before I take the starter off for no reason.
  • petrydishpetrydish Member Posts: 1
    Was running fine. One day it wouldn't start (not enough battery). I replaced the battery and now it turns but won't start. Any suggestions?
  • sebring7sebring7 Member Posts: 2
    I just purchased a '01 sebring convert with the same problem, ie. blows cold air at idle but desired hot air at 1500rpm and above; I was about to change the thermostat, thinking it was stuck open; when I decided to top off the coolant recovery tank. I added about one quart of anti-freeze and lo and behold the heat started coming out at idle. try it an let us know!
  • thoward321thoward321 Member Posts: 4
    I'm having the same problem with my 98, however I have to remember to try it before starting the car. Sometimes it releases, but if I don't I'm worried all the way to my destination. :cry:
  • av1977av1977 Member Posts: 3
    Did the car stop stalling after the distributor was replaced? During the past month, my car has died while driving several times. The first time I was at the top of a bridge, and the car lost all power and died. IT would not restart, and they replaced two belts and the thermostat. Three days later it died again while going 60 mph, but started right back up after being restarted. I took it to the dealership, and after two days of driving it and testing it they could not find anything wrong with it. They said that it was bad gas, and suggested adding heat to the car. Over the next two weeks, it would die while driving and start back up. I took it to two other mechanics, and no one could figure it out. The dealership said that if it died and did not restart to have it towed in. Well, yesterday it died and would not restart at all. It was towed into the dealership, and sat overnight. Apparently it started right up again this morning so they dont know what is the problem. My car has been in and out of the dealership since I purchased it. It is a beautiful car and runs great, but is in the shop all the time. I have had numerous mechanical issues ( engine and transmission replaced, door panels have fallen off, sunroof leaked, passenger door handle broke, several belts, tires, water pump, windshield resevour replaced, speed sensor, and several other things). It is a 1999, and it has 168,000 miles on it. The problems started at 20,000 miles, and it rums great most of the time.... but I cant drive a car that randomly dies while driving down the interstate. IF ANYONE HAS ANY IDEA HOW TO FIX IT PLEASE LET ME KNOW!!!
  • av1977av1977 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same squealing problem (it was really bad) and it was the serpentine belt. The belt wasn't bad, so all they had to do was tighten it and the squealing went away.
  • av1977av1977 Member Posts: 3
    I had the same problem. The windshield washer pump had to be replaced. IT is a $15.00 part if you do it yourself. It is fairly easy to replace.
  • bozbostic1bozbostic1 Member Posts: 2
    you are low on coolant and you have air in the system. put coolant in it when cool then leave coolant resavor cap off and start car let it warm up it will bubble air out of system when car is warm check level and put cap back on. it will work then but you still have a leak somewhere. my 02 v-6 did the same thing
  • bartman011bartman011 Member Posts: 2
    Hello,
    I own a 2000 Sebring JXI conv.
    I was wondering if anyone else has had to replace either the tumbler system in the cars ignition or the whole module that wraps around the steering column. My key won't turn in the ignition ( when the car is cold ) but will turn easily after a fair amount of jiggling. Any help would be appreciated.
    Thanks
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    There is a recall that pertins to this. You may want to see if your car has had this done.I have pasted it below (from Carfax):
    NHTSA campaign number 02V186000: On certain passenger vehicles equipped with 2.5L V6 engines, the throttle control cable can fray causing the throttle to bind or stick. This could potentially result in a loss of throttle control, increasing the risk of a crash. Dealers will replace the throttle cable assembly. Owner notification began August 5, 2002. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at 1-800-853-1403.
  • styxstrastyxstra Member Posts: 3
    The ingnition key on my 98 sebring will not turn If I get lucky after a hour I will get it turn and start, I also noticed if I leave the key in it it will turn the next time. Any Ideas!
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