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Chrysler Sebring Problems and Solutions

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  • sjngradysjngrady Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2002 Convertible I purchased in Oct 2005. I keep reading that the 2.7 engine has a sludge problem. Does anyone know the best way to detect and prevent this? Since the car is out of warranty, has anyone purchased a seperate warranty that covers this?
  • oldengineeroldengineer Member Posts: 22
    I've owned 3 Cars with the 2.7 - An Intrepid, and 2 Sebrings. Have never had a sludge problem with any of them. I change the oil every 3K with Premium oil ( Castrol GTX) and use premium oil filters. Used for business travel, all of them made it to about 100K before I traded them in.

    Regards:
    Oldengineer
  • jimmmyp2003jimmmyp2003 Member Posts: 1
    Hope you fixed it by now but if not here is what I found:
    Had same problem....your low on coolant....your radiator cap leaks and you lose coolant very slowly...but the line to the overflow tank is plugged so you think you have plenty of coolant.....replace cap $4.75.....and clear blockage in line and top off at radiator....been 2 years and hasn't reoccurred
    jim
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    I cant find the 3 resistors from your directions. Could you please give me some more details as to their exact location? Thanks.
  • pulserpulser Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 sebring limited with 5600 miles and on
    satuday 1/14/2004 while on driveing at about 60 mph
    the motor with out warning blew ,sending a rod thru
    the block , now I was told this is a problem with
    2.7 chysler motors
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    Do you mean 56,000?
    http://www.autosafety.org/article.php?scid=37&did=960
    try this link on the 2.7, don't know if it is what you are looking for.
  • dmhcttdmhctt Member Posts: 2
    That's exactly what happened to my car. In order to check for the sludge problem they actually have to crack the engine open. I bought my car in 05 it's an 01. It came cheap because it has high mileage on it. I brought it back to the dealership within a month and a half because my car was sluggish and my engine was knocking. They sent me to a garage just down the street where I found out the majority of my lifters were collapsed and that my engine was completely sludged up. It took three weeks start to finish to get everything repaired. The garage told me to change the oil once a month so it wouldn't sludge up all over again. According to the carfax report my car had never had major problems. Whoever drove it before me was an idiot.
  • dmhcttdmhctt Member Posts: 2
    I've had nothing but problems with this car. A month and a half after I bought it I found out half my lifters were collapsed and my engine was completely sludged up. It got repaired but not until the dealership and the warranty company argued for a while about who was going to pay to have it repaired. I made it very clear I wouldn't do it and it took a call from a lawyer to get them to start the repairs. The car is a piece of junk. They didn't even touch any of my other problems. I'm having some minor electrical issues. My dash and rearview mirror lights won't stick with a brightness. If I turn my turn signals on my dash lights dim and brighten as if they're tied in. My radio...well that's just totally kaputt. The whole unit flashes on and off and I can't just replace it because it's a two part unit. The radio up above and the disc changer down below. I asked about replacing it and they told me to just cap off the wires running from the disc changer. I always end up driving to work in silence. The dealership siad they'd replace the radio. They lied. My front end also makes kind of a funky sound. At first I described it as sounding like a duck quacking or something. I noticed another person describing a sound as an old rocking chair creaking. That sounds about right. You can hear it best driving close to the curb or close to the building where you get the echo. THe dealership didn't hear a thing of course and won't pay to have whatever it is fixed. My trunk release, the one next to the steering wheel doesn't work. My brakes squeak so its probably time to replace them and god knows what else considering the funny sounds out of the front end. At one point my airbag light came on for no apparent reason and several weeks later after no one could tell me what was wrong the airbag light turned off and I haven't seen it since. I haven't had any tire or wheel problems thank god. I think Chrysler just needs to do a total recall. The only redeeming qualities the car has is now that my engine is clean it has power to spare, and as tall as I am (5 11) I have room to stretch. All in all its a poor piece of work at best. :lemon:
  • bartman011bartman011 Member Posts: 2
    My 2000 jxi is starting to nickel and dime me. I have just turned 95000 miles and have found some trouble codes and I am looking for some help.It seems that I have 1)an engine speed input circuit malfunction 2) a bank 1 circuit malfunction 3) a manufacturer control ignition system or misfire 4) two evap emission control systems leaks small and large. I have just cleared these codes after my trans downshifted and my tach redlined @ 50 mph. My tach also redlined from a dead stop @ around 20 mph. If anyone has an answer, please let me know.
    Thanks for your time.
  • rickscorgisrickscorgis Member Posts: 3
    mine does that too, i havent checked yet but it sounds like your thermostat.rick
  • rottie71rottie71 Member Posts: 1
    Hi all, I have a 96 Sebring Conv JXI, I noticed that the coolant will come out the overflow after the car has been running fo 30 min or so.
    I also only get heat when the car is only moving, not at idle. The head gaskets were done a few weeks ago at the dealer, and there is no foam in the oil or coolant smelling exhaust. The temp guage stays steady 4 lines up from bottom.

    Could this be a thermostat issue or something bigger?
  • iadiad Member Posts: 1
    I have the same problem with my 96 sebring conv. 20 amp starter fuse under the hood keeps blowing. Won't start, does anyone have a fix?
  • kensousakensousa Member Posts: 2
    We are having the same trouble with our 2000 convertible.
    Intermittent stalling, sometimes at high speeds and sometimes at low speeds. One other symptom is that while it stalled on the highway last time, I realized that the gas pedal lost all resistance. It almost felt like the return spring had been removed or broken. The pedal returned to the up position when I let off of it, but it had no friction or resistance.
    Once we sat for a couple of minutes, the car started right up and drove for another few hundred miles before it stalled again.
    Any other ideas on where to look?
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    Change the starter, it's got a bad spot in the windings or solenoid. It will do this periodically depending on where the starter stops rotating.
  • dhudsondhudson Member Posts: 1
    hello
    We purchased a 1995 sebring used, and have so far just have only put minor repairs in. Untill now sometimes my car does over 60 mph but only on a cold day in hell. I have had the car for 3 mos and I have gotten over 60 mph's only twice!!!! Any info on what the problem could be????
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    I would need more details, but it sounds like you aren't running on all cylinders or have a clogged fuel filter.

    Just info to everyone, I've been reading here a while.
    If you buy a used car you need to give it a serious tune up. You have no idea what kind negligence the car has had to date. By "serious tune up" I mean change all the fluids, all the filters, plugs and all ignition cables, all belts including the timing belt, pcv valve, clean the battery terminals and the grounding posts, etc. If you can do the work yourself, we are talking about $400 in parts and a few days work. It will pay for itself 10 times over.

    dhudson, I believe this would solve your problem as well.
  • kensousakensousa Member Posts: 2
    We are having the same trouble with our 2000 convertible.
    Intermittent stalling, sometimes at high speeds and sometimes at low speeds. One other symptom is that while it stalled on the highway last time, I realized that the gas pedal lost all resistance. It almost felt like the return spring had been removed or broken. The pedal returned to the up position when I let off of it, but it had no friction or resistance.
    Once we sat for a couple of minutes, the car started right up and drove for another few hundred miles before it stalled again.
    Any other ideas on where to look?
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    Sounds like the EGR Valve. Also I see thet there is a TSB for a similar problem.
    NUMBER: 18-020-01, Engine - Rough Idle, Hard Start, or Start & Stall

    I've no idea why the pedal lost resistance or if there is a corolation. I would have to look under my own car to see.
  • pwgilbertpwgilbert Member Posts: 16
  • st_admanst_adman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 LX and I bought the car with 19K and all was fine through 03-04. Late last Winter, I noticed a groaning squawking sound in the front end at start and stop. At first I thought it needed a lube job but it is factory sealed. I as well do not notice the noise when the weather gets warmer. I will llook into new struts since now at 70K they may be due. When and if i sell the car it will be in the warm weather.

    St_adman
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    Just went through a number of dealer visits to get the front suspension on my 05 Sebring to quit groaning and moaning. Finally got that fixed about a month ago. Last week the front pump in the auto tranny died, and, the car's in the shop again for 2 weeks. All this aggravation and she just turned over 30K miles. Come on, Chrysler, surely you can do better than this!! End of rant. :sick:
  • captainslendercaptainslender Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 99 sebring coupe 2 days ago, same noise drove me nuts, sounded like I needed a complete front end rebuild...........open your hood , there is a black rubber cap on top of your front struts, spray it generously with white lithium grease (it comes in a spray can,$3 at your local hardware store). The boot rubs on the metal housing and makes that awful noise. Incredibly anoying but harmless sound will disapear.
  • scott3392scott3392 Member Posts: 1
    Trying to put on a new belt is there another pully i should back off other than the one on top it is a 98 convertible with the 6.Thanks scott3392
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    which belt?
  • itchegume2006itchegume2006 Member Posts: 2
    My 1995 Sebring has been acting like it has a fuel air mixture problem.At first the idle went,then it boggs out at 3500 rpms.Now it wont start.The map sensor and computer have been replaced.Sometimes when I get down the road the check engine light would be off and it would run decent,but not very often.My friend thinks it is an O2 sensor.If so which one and how big of a job is it?I would greatly appreciate any imput from anybody,I am all ears.THANKS!
  • joeh5joeh5 Member Posts: 3
    I just bought an 06 base sedan and the 4 cylinder is awfully loud. It seems to always sound like its idling high. I also have noticed a clicking noise in the steering wheel. Any ideas?

    JH
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    Spend the 12 bucks and buy the Hanes auto manual book at your local parts store. It will be the best money you ever spent.
    I would be more inclinded to think it is an EGR Valve before an O2 sensor, just my two cents.
  • kyfrankkyfrank Member Posts: 3
    Hello everyone. New here. I just bought a 97 LXi coupe with 87000 miles that looks and drives great. Problem that has surfaced is it will not start...sometimes. This has happened about 5 or 6 times after running from 1 minute to 30 minutes. Stop engine and it will not re-start. Cranks over fine, plenty of battery, all other electric functions operate - just won't start. Plenty of gas, I hear the fuel pump humming when I turn the key to run, just won't fire. The weird thing it will start after it "rests" for a few hours. Then it runs great. I searched this forum and did not see this same problem posted. HELP. Thanks. :confuse:
  • neonitisneonitis Member Posts: 11
    I gotta ask you, what fixed the problem with your '05 sebring on the groaning and moaning in the front suspension? i too have a '05 sebring convertible with only 22k miles and it moans and groans as you mentioned. And are you using 5-20W oil as the oil cap states?Have you been told to use only that viscosity on these 6 cylinder motors? thanks for your response. Hector
  • brooks5583brooks5583 Member Posts: 1
    i hope someone else has had a similar problem. i have a 99 chrysler sebring with the v-6. runs fine until it runs for a while and it stalls, while driving or while at idle. new fuel pump and filter. i'm at a loss. could someone point me in the right direction please.
  • neonitisneonitis Member Posts: 11
    Are all of you '05/'06sebring owners running 5w20 oil viscosity as stated on oil refill cap on motor?Is that what the Chrysler service dept is recommending us to use,here in Dallas,Texas, where the summers are in the 100 degree hot? I just installed a K&N air filter in V6 2.7. Drove to Louisiana, 720mile trip, trip computer read 28.9 mpg.I did not reset computer after filter install, so i may have to let ECU calibrate for new mixture.Anyone else using the K&N air filter on sebring?Has anyone have to change out their sparkplugs in the '05 sebring touring conv? Were the originals platinum? and how hard was it to R&R? Anybody know where i can get a front strut bar for the '05 sebring touring conv?
  • blondeeohblondeeoh Member Posts: 1
    :) I found this forum because I was thinking of trading in my 97 sebring convertible for a newer one. I do have 203,500 miles on it... yes I know I will get nothing for it! I was so sucked in when I bought it in 2000 with 67,000 on it already. Well I have to say it is not a perfect car but what car is??? I did totally trash it in an accident about 4 months after I got it, bent the frame, broke and axle cracked the other (had to replace it later), blew out a tire, ruined the front bumper... probably more, I forget now. It seems I have had similiar problems to what every one else has said, a ticking in the motor, groaning a/c, wet in the floor after a heavy rain (that was just this year), brakes, etc... I did get a new starter last year and that fuel valve... again, forgetful! the one that let the car run fine, as long as it had gas, as soon as I let up on the gas, it sputtered out. Well, that was a $280 repair on a trip to Atlanta. ALL in ALL.... I don't feel I have put more than the average person does into their car, I have had it almost 6 years... it has been fantastic in the winter, doesn't like rain much, little annoying things like the locks and the rear defroster falling off... but it seems we all dealt with these. I love my car, I do think I need to trade it in soon though. Is there really a car out there without problems?
  • oldengineeroldengineer Member Posts: 22
    There's a service bulletin out for the Sebring that addresses this problem. Apparently they put some new rivets in that hold the strut towers. Yes, I'm using 5-20 Oil in mine. Using Castrol GTX. Dealer advised me to stick with recommended viscosity.
  • neonitisneonitis Member Posts: 11
    Rivets? I look at the strut tower assy on my sebring, and there are four "bolts" about 16-18mm socket size.This being viewed from the top with hood open.Are you talking about down under the front,by strut assys? Or do you know?Do you have specific service bulletin information?And will you post on here?Like bulletin number, date of issue, etc.Have you had this done to yours?Were there other service bulletins for the '05 chrysler sebring convertible?and what did they entail? Sorry for the million ?'s but we are here to help each other. right?
  • nlt81nlt81 Member Posts: 1
    Hey everyone I'm new here.I have a 2003 Sebring LX and at night when I turn on the lights sometimes the windshield wipers come on out of no where. Its been doing this more and more over time and I have no idea why. Has anyone had this problem or know what I can do to fix it.

    Thanks
  • kyfrankkyfrank Member Posts: 3
    I live in a state that requires a front license plate. My 1997 Sebring has no bracket or place for one. Can anyone give me help about this problem? :confuse:
  • ghost82ghost82 Member Posts: 4
    Hello, I have a 1996 Sebring LX 2.5L VIN "N" 75K mi. I am having similar problems as you. I have replaced cap, also the PCM. I see the resistors you are talking about, but had a couple questions. I dont have the key fob, but when I lock the door with the key, the alarm arms and the green light comes on. I have to unhook the battery. Does that mean it isn't that relay? The car had died while driving on the previous owner so I picked it up cheap. They had complained of a rough idle when it did start, then no start after dying. They recommended PCM, so thats the first place I started, no change. I ended up checking distributor cap and replacing after. Rotor didn't look bad, so I checked resistance on distributor(ignition coil). Primary is at 5.3ohm on Chiltons 6-8ohm range. Secondary is at 18.3ohm on a 12-18 range. Is that too far out? I am getting weak spark on the secondary spark test for cylinders 2,4,& 6. Looks red, not blue. Plugs are wet and you can smell gas when I pull them after trying to start. I checked the wire that I think carries power from PCM to the coil, it is R/G. Chilton calls it the ignition coil driver. It is reading 1.0 mV key on, then 2.29V while cranking. Checked at the PCM, plugged in. That isnt enough supply is it? That is where I am so far. Any thoughts would be GREAT!! I am a week into it so far. Were these the same symptoms you had?
  • oldcemoldcem Member Posts: 309
    The Chrysler dealer didn't give me a service bulletin number. I know they had to take out the plastic fender liners to get to the rivets they replaced. Don't know about service bulletins for convertibles - my car is a 4 door Signature Series. Unfortunately its in the shop again - pucked its tranny at 30k miles.

    Regards:
  • 04sedanv604sedanv6 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 04 sebring sedan ....2.7 V6 I have taken it back to the dealership 2-3 times. The ran computer test all times and could find nothing. My car sporadically idles up whenever I go to slow down or park. It also has the tendency to idle down and cut off at odd times. INCLUDING when i'm in the middle of an intersecton. :mad: NO CHECK ENGINE lights are on! COULD someone please tell me what it could be?????
  • erniedj5erniedj5 Member Posts: 1
    i had the same problem with my brothers ford probe. same symptoms as yours and it was a distributor. Check that out once. good luck
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    Sounds like a vapor locked gas tank. I would suggest changing the gas cap first. If that doesn't do it, next time pull the fuel line in the engine comp loose to see if there is fuel coming out with the key turned so the fuel pump is running. Troubleshoot from there.
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    Mine didn't crank or anything. Everything I researched said the starter on these models get dead spots in them and in if it lines up just right, nothing. I changed the starter four months ago. No more problem. Also make sure the ground to the starter (where it is bolted to the block), PCM & the main ground to the block/frame are clean.

    Is that the problem you are having or is yours cranking and not turning over.
  • ghost82ghost82 Member Posts: 4
    Mine is cranking and not turning over. I am getting no compression now on cylinders 2&4. I am getting only 75psi compression on cylinder 6. I havent checked 1, 3, &5 since they are under the intake. I was told by somebody else that it was the timing belt skipped some. So I should be expecting to replace some valves and probably a piston. That is the only answer I can come up with to why it wont start. I checked with an inline spark tester and I am getting spark, one got me good. And there is gas.
  • blackjxiblackjxi Member Posts: 1
    I have owned my car for 2 1/2 years, it was previously owned by one of my family members which bought it new. I have never had any problems out of it. I guess I just got lucky and bought a non defective one! I do have a question, I was told by the Chrysler Dealership that Black with a black top was the most rare color combo the had. Is that true? Mine is black w/black top, and charcoal leather.
  • kyfrankkyfrank Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I will try that if/when it happens again.
  • 77722777772277 Member Posts: 7
    I have a 2001 LX conv. with 50k miles -- I searched previous and did not find this exact problem:

    Occasionally, when I start driving, a high pitched whine comes from the front wheels. It's not the brakes -- this it totally speed-based. With a cold engine, the noise starts around 25 mph and gets louder the faster I drive. Taking my foot off the gas and/or applying the brake does not stop or change the whine -- only falling back below 25 mph stops the noise. The more warmed up the engine gets, the faster I need to go before the whine starts. Eventually (after driving/idling for a few minutes) the whine disappears altogether.

    This only seems to happen in the Spring and Fall, and not all the time then, either. Rotating the tires did not fix. Can't take it to a shop, because by the time I get there, the car is warmed up enough not to make the noise -- and I don't feel like leaving it there overnight, just in case the car would decide to not to whine the following morning.

    I can live with the whine, but just want to make sure there is not something more serious going on. Now, the whine sounds just like when you squeeze the neck of a balloon to let air out with a -- high pitched whine.

    Does this sound at all familiar to anyone? And what does it mean?

    Thanks--
    --R
  • ghost82ghost82 Member Posts: 4
    Hello, I had this going on another strand but doesn't seem to be the same problem. I bought this car off somebody after it died while driving, and wouldn't start again. Before it died there was also a complaint of a very low, rough idle. I was told that it was the PCM, so I replaced that and no difference. Then I started checking things by Chiltons instructions. Checked the distributor cap and rotor, then replaced. I checked the Auto Shutdown Relay, then replaced. I checked the ignition coil in the distributor and it was fine. I checked spark with an inline tester and I have that. There is fuel apparent on the spark plugs when I pull them, and pump is noticeable when you turn the key. I have an Optima red top trying to start it. I checked compression the other day, and had none on 2&4, but 75psi on 6 (1,3,&5 are under intake). I was told skipped timing by a buddy, but these are interference engines so I should hear something like, valves hitting pistons. I cranked the engine by hand at the crank pulley, and I didn't hear or feel anything hitting. I've felt an interference that had internal problems. I looked after a little while and noticed that the throttle blade was not moving while cranking, to let air in. This would have given me a low compression reading. So, I tried flooring the gas (blade wide open) and the thing actually acted like it was going to start, then back to cranking again soon after. There is a TSB on ALLDATA talking about flashing the PCM, it was a repair procedure related to a No Start condition??? That is where I am at on this thing, after a week. If ANYBODY has any ideas or questions, PLEASE respond. THANK YOU!!!
  • lhoffmanlhoffman Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 Sebring convertible that consistently leaks air from the tires. It has been caused by the wheels exhibiting corrosion around the rim. I have been told by two Chrysler parts managers, as well as two different tire shops who fixed the problem, that the problem is a common one. I have been told by the Chrysler Corporation that they will not participate in any replacement of the wheel or wheels , because the warranty is out due to excessive mileage. I have presently 39,000 miles on the vehicle. I bought it used, so in reality I have 9000 miles. I was not advised by anyone in any Chrysler dealership prior to purchasing the vehicle that a problem existed. No such warning was printed on the list of potential major risks. The cost of the replacement wheels is $560, and the dealership has presently five in stock. That simply tells me that there has indeed been a problem with replacement. Anyone with ideas? Thanks
  • pjlipjli Member Posts: 1
    I had the same problem but with a Mazda, it was the distributor which fails to provide signal. had it changed, everything OK.
  • he11benthe11bent Member Posts: 24
    The timing belt could be a definate cause, if the engine shut off while youe driving it.
    This is a close tolerance engine, it may be ugly.
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