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Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • osaka75osaka75 Posts: 88
    Please let us know what they tell you. Thanks.
  • ll94ll94 Posts: 1
    My 2001 Sonata has been inspected twice and has failed twice. OBD read catalyst not ready and O2 sensor not ready. In NYS you can only have one not ready. Has anyone else had this issue?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Haven't personally had that issue, but it sounds like you're probably needing a new catalytic converter. The good news is that the federal emissions warranty on this pricey item is 8 yrs./80,000 miles. The oxygen sensor'll likely be on your nickel, though.
  • Hi,

    There is a phenomenon on my newly purchased 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. When I start the engine, the low oil pressure warning light stays on for approximately three seconds before it goes out. This happens whenever the engine is cool (eg, turn off the engine and let it cool for 15 minutes and then try to turn it on again). I took my car to my local dealer today and they told me that was normal. But I am still concerned. Shouldn't the light go off immediately after the engine is started? Isn't the oil pressure built up in no time when the engine is running? Can the three-second pressure-buildup gap lead to any extra wear and tear of the engine? If you happen to know the answers, please kindly let me know.
  • arendaarenda Posts: 2
    I am also having a brake problem. On my 05 Sonata the brakes will squeak the first time I use the car. After the car sits for 4 hours, I will get that squeaky noise again. IT appears when it is cold they squeak but after about 5 minutes of driving the noise will subside. Hyundai service can never duplicate this noise whenever they test drive it so they keep telling me there is nothing they can do until they hear the noise. I am not deaf and the noise is driving me nuts. Any suggestions out there?
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    " I am not deaf and the noise is driving me nuts. Any suggestions out there?"

    Two ideas come to mind. Purchase a little Digital recorder and make them an Mp3 of the noise. I loved my unit that had the Mp3 & editing software. Or # 2...

    Take the Hyundai Challenge and pick up one of the brand new 06 or 07 Sonatas. You'll love it! :)
  • This is a car forum not a spelling bee geek! Get over it and get on with car reviews and opinions.
  • No. Next question.
  • sammy13sammy13 Posts: 2
    I bought a 2006 4 cylinder hyundai sonata about eight months ago. During the second month I noticed that everytime i made a right turn it made a squeaky noise. I took it to the dealer and the noise got worse...now it makes it when I turn to the left and right. I must have taken it to the dealers about ten times. they have no idea what's wrong with it. the noise just gets louder.
  • dano13dano13 Posts: 15
    man this is a tuff room!there are more important thing in life than spelling, and i have most of them .apollige acepted.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    I don't believe there's anything wrong with your engine. The new Lambda V6s have a top-mounted cartride type oil filter. The oil pressure sending unit is probably mounted to the base of the oil filter cannister. full pressure won't register until oil has circulated to the top end of the engine. The 5W-20 oil that Hyundai and others are now specifying are thinner which will allow faster drain back after shutdown, too. My '03 shop manual for my Sonata's 2.7L V6 (low-mounted spin-on oil filter) states that up to 10 seconds to oil pressure light shutoff from startup is within spec for a properly operating oil pump. I typically see about 2 seconds from a cold start with the 10W-30 viscosity grade motor oil Hyundai recommends for my engine - and that's in spite of the fact that the sensor is mounted low and should see full oil pressure almost immediately at startup.
  • Ray, your point makes sense. However, I talked to a couple of my friends who have just bought the same car (2006 Sonata GLS V6) and they told me that the oil light on their cars went off in no time after startup. Why is there a difference on my car? Our cars are the same with factory-installed oil & filter.

    BTW, shouldn't there be a valve in the oil filter that prevents the oil in the filter from draining back to the crankcase after the engine is shut down?
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    If you're still concerned about the apparant delay in oil coming up to full pressure after startup, you probably should talk to your dealership's service manager. If there really is an issue, now's the time to have it dealt with - even if you do have a 10/100,000 powertrain warranty, right? Now, about that anti-drainback valve in oil filters. What most people fail to realize is that valve is there to prevent dirty oil from draining back into the sump. At shut-off, oil and crud in the "dirty" side would drain right back into the sump but for the one-way nitrile or silicone rubber "flapper" valve covering the inlet port(s). However, the oil filter (cartridge or spin-on) is not a closed system. Filters have outlets for oil under pressure to exit and go about its business lubricating the engine in operation after the oil travels through the filtration media. Therefore, at shutdown, oil on the "dirty" side of the filter, though no longer under pressure, can and does gradually seep through the filtration media (though leaving the crud behind in the "dirty" side of the filter chamber) into the center core where it's able to drain out of the filter to some degree because of gravity. If your filter housing's anti-drainback valve isn't working as it should, though, your filter housing might be emptying nearly completely and unexpectedly quickly - again, something you'd want to bring up as a possible warranty issue based on your observance of the apparant delay of the oil pressure light extinguishing after startup.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    If the squeaking occurs as you're turning the steering wheel, I'd suspect a bearing or universal joint between the steering wheel shaft and the intermediate shaft to the steering rack is insufficiently lubed. I could also be dead wrong.
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    There is a phenomenon on my newly purchased 2006 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. When I start the engine, the low oil pressure warning light stays on for approximately three seconds before it goes out.

    Have you had an oil change yet?

    If so, it's possible you have a bad filter. Certain aftermarket filters allow the oil to drain back into the engine. Hyundai has a TSB out on this, and warns against using aftermarket filters. I wouldn't even rule out a defective factory filter.
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    Sammy, had the same problem, turning left or right, with the Engine on or off. Took it back to the Dealer, they did something, and fixed nothing. Went back again and let my Service Manager drive my Car for the 5>4>3>1 Downshift Display thing, his Sonata also does that. Anyway pointed out the horrible squeak, and this time they fixed it. No new parts needed, just lubrication. I'm sure it will come back!
  • baddaybadday Posts: 10
    I took my car to the dealer today and they checked it and didn't find any problem. They told me it's designed like that. They also told me that they reset something. The car sometimes still has the "drag back" feeling when changing gears. I don't know what to do now, it only has 1000 miles on it. I hope it will go away after break in.
  • dano13dano13 Posts: 15
    If ESC is a safety feature why can and why would you shut it off I. have turned it of and on and notice no difference :confuse: spell checker used
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    I don't know what to do now, it only has 1000 miles on it. I hope it will go away after break in.

    Problems such as this rarely go away, and if anything, will get worse.

    There is a chance that you are used to another transmission, and simply are not used to the electronically controlled transmission "feel". Since I have no idea what a "drag back" feeling is, I can't help you there.

    Does the transmission have a shift lag between gears? This can cause engine free-wheeling (slight RPM increase)and sometimes a lurch when the shift finally occurs.

    Or...

    Does the transmission refuse to shift into a higher gear until you either speed up a lot or back off on the throttle?

    If you have either of these conditions, ask your dealer to have a factory rep check out the car.
  • suzannaflsuzannafl Posts: 84
    Do you have your CDs back yet?
    Did they give you any indication of how long it would take?

    I don't have anything myself.

    Suzanna
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Best of luck getting "eaten" CDs back. I have a gut feeling that the liklihood of CDs making their way back to their rightfull owners is inversely related to the general desirability of particular discs. I hope I'm wrong.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 45,018
    Try getting a lamb chop away from an alligator---that's about the luck I've had with this.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • eagle2aeagle2a Posts: 97
    bodad: I posted this info in another forum possibly it may help you.

    This site has been most helpful to me as I have tried to get back into automobile purchases after 14 years.

    So let me see if I can help some of you folks. I don't know if this information will be helpful are not, but possibly it may.

    I purchased a 2006 Hyundai Sonata I4 automatic transmission this mo. It is running fine. However Hyundai provides an on line service manual. In looking it over last night I ran into this important information. I am not suggesting this is the problem with the Camry transmissions you folks are talking about, but I thought it might be something you could look into. I hope this is some help to you all!!

    I will copy the bulletin for you to see. I am sorry it lost the formatting in copying to this web site

    Page 1 of 4
    Technical Service
    Bulletin
    Subject
    Group
    Number
    Date
    Model
    TRANSAXLE
    06-40-005
    MARCH, 2006
    ALL
    AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE CONTROL MODULE -
    RESET AND RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES
    This bulletin supersedes TSB 05-40-004 to include additional models.
    DESCRIPTION:
    The PCM or TCM contains logic to adjust solenoid duty and line pressure as needed to
    compensate for normal clutch wear over the life of the transaxle. This bulletin provides
    the procedures necessary to reset (erase) and “relearn” the adaptive values in the
    PCM/TCM.

    After the following repairs have been completed, the PCM/TCM adaptive values must
    be reset in order to provide optimum shift quality:
    • Replace automatic transaxle
    • Reprogram or swap PCM/TCM from another vehicle
    Adaptive values must be reset using procedure #1 or #2 according to model and model
    year (MY) as shown below.

    I. RESET PCM/TCM ADAPTIVE VALUES
    MODEL ENGINE
    1.
    DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
    BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
    SECONDS
    2.
    USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
    TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
    FOR 10 SECONDS
    ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
    ELANTRA 2.0L ~12/01/2002 12/01/2002~
    TIBURON
    2.0L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    2.7L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    SANTA FE
    2.4L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
    2.7L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
    3.5L 2003~04 MY 2005 MY~
    XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
    XG350 3.5L 2002~04 MY 2005 MY~
    TUCSON
    2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
    2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
    Page 2 of 4
    HI-SCAN PROCEDURE:
    1. Turn the Ignition key to the “ON” position (do not start engine) and move the shift
    lever to “P”.
    2. Attach the Hi-Scan Pro to the data link
    connector (DLC):
    • Select vehicle
    • Select “AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE”
    menu.
    • Select “RESETTING ADAPTIVE
    VALUES”, press “ENTER”
    • Press “ENTER”, then “REST” (F1)
    • Turn Ignition key “OFF” for 10
    seconds.
    1999~2005
    Sonata
    2.4L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    2.7L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    2006~
    SONATA
    2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
    3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
    AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
    ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
    MODEL ENGINE
    1.
    DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
    BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
    SECONDS
    2.
    USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
    TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
    FOR 10 SECONDS
    Page 3 of 4
    Technical Service
    Bulletin
    Group
    Number
    II. RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES:
    NOTE: After the adaptive values have been reset (erased), an “adaptive learning”
    procedure must be completed as shown below.
    3. Attach a Hi-Scan Pro or GDS and
    select “Engine” menu, “Current Data”
    menu and throttle position sensor in
    volts (“THROTTLE POS. SENSOR”,
    “ACCEL. POS. S”, or “ACCEL PEDAL
    1 VOLT”, depending on model).
    4. Drive the vehicle until the ATF
    temperature is within the temperature
    range shown on Page 3.
    5. Request an assistant to monitor the Hi-
    Scan while accelerating the vehicle at
    small throttle openings (approximately 25-
    30% throttle). Hold the accelerator pedal
    steady at a throttle position sensor value
    of 1.45~1.75v during several 1-2-3-4
    upshifts. Repeat until normal gear
    transitions occur.
    6. Repeat this procedure for 4-3, 3-2 and 2-1
    downshifts.
    TPS Specification: 1.45~1.75v
    TRANSAXLE
    06-40-005
    Page 4 of 4
    NOTE: Adaptive learning does not occur below the ATF temperature range
    shown below:
    WARRANTY INFORMATION:
    Applicable warranty coverage applies
    ATF TEMPERATURE: 122~194°F
    (50~90°C)
    50~122°F
    (10~50°C)
    MODEL ENGINE PRODUCTION DATE
    ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
    ELANTRA 2.0L ~11/21/2001 11/21/2001~
    TIBURON
    2.0L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
    2.7L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
    SANTA FE
    2.4L 2001~02 MY 2003 MY~
    2.7L ~01/17/2002 01/17/2002~
    3.5L N/A 2003 MY~
    XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
    XG350 3.5L N/A 2002 MY~
    TUCSON
    2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
    2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
    1999~2005
    SONATA
    2.4L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
    2.7L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
    2006~
    SONATA
    2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
    3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
    AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
    ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
  • gibigibi Posts: 9
    Mine did the exact thing, the dealer replaced the right rear wheel bearing, They said it was defective, No more squeel. have them check it.
  • seepicseepic Posts: 7
    Hi, I just owned my Sonata GLS V6 for a couple weeks. I'm satisfied with most of the car so far. However I noticed that the gas pedal seems not sensitive compared with my previous 95 Saturn. To start from the traffic light, I have to step down almost halfway the gas pedal. Is it normal? Additionally, sometimes I can feel the gas pedal is shaking(vibrating?). If I step down a little bit, it becomes normal. Any thoughts on it? Thanks.
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    That's not normal at all, and pretty alarming. I would take it in right away if I were you.
  • osaka75osaka75 Posts: 88
    That's the opposite problem that I have. If I press down like a quarter inch the car accelerates smoothly but will keep going up to like 70 mph. It's difficult to press lightly enough to go only 30 or 40 mph.
  • ckd131ckd131 Posts: 1
    Brand new 2006 Sonata GL and I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor but there is nothing to indicate how to stop it from flashing.
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor

    Where is it located? On top of the dash in little dome by any chance?
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    "Brand new 2006 Sonata GL and I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor but there is nothing to indicate how to stop it from flashing."

    Oh that!. Your car is just communicating with the Hyundai GPS Satellite. Now if it stops, take it into the dealer. :)
    (Smile provided in DeepWater Blue)

    Honestly though... that is the Alarm System LED. It blinks Red all the time, except when driving. Trust me on this!. Isn't that strange?.
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