Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Hyundai Sonata Maintenance and Repair

16263656768159

Comments

  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    Best of luck getting "eaten" CDs back. I have a gut feeling that the liklihood of CDs making their way back to their rightfull owners is inversely related to the general desirability of particular discs. I hope I'm wrong.
  • MrShift@EdmundsMrShift@Edmunds Posts: 43,637
    Try getting a lamb chop away from an alligator---that's about the luck I've had with this.
  • eagle2aeagle2a Posts: 97
    bodad: I posted this info in another forum possibly it may help you.

    This site has been most helpful to me as I have tried to get back into automobile purchases after 14 years.

    So let me see if I can help some of you folks. I don't know if this information will be helpful are not, but possibly it may.

    I purchased a 2006 Hyundai Sonata I4 automatic transmission this mo. It is running fine. However Hyundai provides an on line service manual. In looking it over last night I ran into this important information. I am not suggesting this is the problem with the Camry transmissions you folks are talking about, but I thought it might be something you could look into. I hope this is some help to you all!!

    I will copy the bulletin for you to see. I am sorry it lost the formatting in copying to this web site

    Page 1 of 4
    Technical Service
    Bulletin
    Subject
    Group
    Number
    Date
    Model
    TRANSAXLE
    06-40-005
    MARCH, 2006
    ALL
    AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE CONTROL MODULE -
    RESET AND RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES
    This bulletin supersedes TSB 05-40-004 to include additional models.
    DESCRIPTION:
    The PCM or TCM contains logic to adjust solenoid duty and line pressure as needed to
    compensate for normal clutch wear over the life of the transaxle. This bulletin provides
    the procedures necessary to reset (erase) and “relearn” the adaptive values in the
    PCM/TCM.

    After the following repairs have been completed, the PCM/TCM adaptive values must
    be reset in order to provide optimum shift quality:
    • Replace automatic transaxle
    • Reprogram or swap PCM/TCM from another vehicle
    Adaptive values must be reset using procedure #1 or #2 according to model and model
    year (MY) as shown below.

    I. RESET PCM/TCM ADAPTIVE VALUES
    MODEL ENGINE
    1.
    DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
    BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
    SECONDS
    2.
    USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
    TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
    FOR 10 SECONDS
    ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
    ELANTRA 2.0L ~12/01/2002 12/01/2002~
    TIBURON
    2.0L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    2.7L 1997~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    SANTA FE
    2.4L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
    2.7L 2001~04 MY 2005 MY~
    3.5L 2003~04 MY 2005 MY~
    XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
    XG350 3.5L 2002~04 MY 2005 MY~
    TUCSON
    2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
    2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
    Page 2 of 4
    HI-SCAN PROCEDURE:
    1. Turn the Ignition key to the “ON” position (do not start engine) and move the shift
    lever to “P”.
    2. Attach the Hi-Scan Pro to the data link
    connector (DLC):
    • Select vehicle
    • Select “AUTOMATIC TRANSAXLE”
    menu.
    • Select “RESETTING ADAPTIVE
    VALUES”, press “ENTER”
    • Press “ENTER”, then “REST” (F1)
    • Turn Ignition key “OFF” for 10
    seconds.
    1999~2005
    Sonata
    2.4L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    2.7L 1999~2004 MY 2005 MY~
    2006~
    SONATA
    2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
    3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
    AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
    ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
    MODEL ENGINE
    1.
    DISCONNECT NEGATIVE
    BATTERY CABLE FOR 10
    SECONDS
    2.
    USE HI-SCAN OR GDS,
    TURN IGNITION KEY OFF
    FOR 10 SECONDS
    Page 3 of 4
    Technical Service
    Bulletin
    Group
    Number
    II. RELEARN ADAPTIVE VALUES:
    NOTE: After the adaptive values have been reset (erased), an “adaptive learning”
    procedure must be completed as shown below.
    3. Attach a Hi-Scan Pro or GDS and
    select “Engine” menu, “Current Data”
    menu and throttle position sensor in
    volts (“THROTTLE POS. SENSOR”,
    “ACCEL. POS. S”, or “ACCEL PEDAL
    1 VOLT”, depending on model).
    4. Drive the vehicle until the ATF
    temperature is within the temperature
    range shown on Page 3.
    5. Request an assistant to monitor the Hi-
    Scan while accelerating the vehicle at
    small throttle openings (approximately 25-
    30% throttle). Hold the accelerator pedal
    steady at a throttle position sensor value
    of 1.45~1.75v during several 1-2-3-4
    upshifts. Repeat until normal gear
    transitions occur.
    6. Repeat this procedure for 4-3, 3-2 and 2-1
    downshifts.
    TPS Specification: 1.45~1.75v
    TRANSAXLE
    06-40-005
    Page 4 of 4
    NOTE: Adaptive learning does not occur below the ATF temperature range
    shown below:
    WARRANTY INFORMATION:
    Applicable warranty coverage applies
    ATF TEMPERATURE: 122~194°F
    (50~90°C)
    50~122°F
    (10~50°C)
    MODEL ENGINE PRODUCTION DATE
    ACCENT 1.6L 1996~2005 MY 2006 MY~
    ELANTRA 2.0L ~11/21/2001 11/21/2001~
    TIBURON
    2.0L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
    2.7L 1997~2001 MY 2003 MY~
    SANTA FE
    2.4L 2001~02 MY 2003 MY~
    2.7L ~01/17/2002 01/17/2002~
    3.5L N/A 2003 MY~
    XG300 3.0L 2001 MY N/A
    XG350 3.5L N/A 2002 MY~
    TUCSON
    2.7L N/A 2005 MY~
    2.0L N/A 2005 MY~
    1999~2005
    SONATA
    2.4L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
    2.7L ~11/30/2001 11/30/2001~
    2006~
    SONATA
    2.4L N/A 2006 MY~
    3.3L N/A 2006 MY~
    AZERA 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
    ENTOURAGE 3.8L N/A 2006 MY~
  • gibigibi Posts: 9
    Mine did the exact thing, the dealer replaced the right rear wheel bearing, They said it was defective, No more squeel. have them check it.
  • seepicseepic Posts: 7
    Hi, I just owned my Sonata GLS V6 for a couple weeks. I'm satisfied with most of the car so far. However I noticed that the gas pedal seems not sensitive compared with my previous 95 Saturn. To start from the traffic light, I have to step down almost halfway the gas pedal. Is it normal? Additionally, sometimes I can feel the gas pedal is shaking(vibrating?). If I step down a little bit, it becomes normal. Any thoughts on it? Thanks.
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    That's not normal at all, and pretty alarming. I would take it in right away if I were you.
  • osaka75osaka75 Posts: 88
    That's the opposite problem that I have. If I press down like a quarter inch the car accelerates smoothly but will keep going up to like 70 mph. It's difficult to press lightly enough to go only 30 or 40 mph.
  • ckd131ckd131 Posts: 1
    Brand new 2006 Sonata GL and I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor but there is nothing to indicate how to stop it from flashing.
  • bobadbobad Posts: 1,587
    I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor

    Where is it located? On top of the dash in little dome by any chance?
  • miamixtmiamixt Posts: 600
    "Brand new 2006 Sonata GL and I already have a light flashing identified in the owner's manual as a photo sensor but there is nothing to indicate how to stop it from flashing."

    Oh that!. Your car is just communicating with the Hyundai GPS Satellite. Now if it stops, take it into the dealer. :)
    (Smile provided in DeepWater Blue)

    Honestly though... that is the Alarm System LED. It blinks Red all the time, except when driving. Trust me on this!. Isn't that strange?.
  • pekelopdpekelopd Posts: 139
    The little dome infront of the driver is the alarm status indicator that will always flash except while driving. In front of the passenger's seat is the photosensor that will turn on your headlights (if set to AUTO position) on when dark enough.
  • seepicseepic Posts: 7
    we should trade. :) :)
  • pedo56pedo56 Posts: 1
    I have an 02 Sonata and it seems everything is going wrong at once. 75k miles, 4 cylinder.

    Problem 1. Won't start (normally while cold). Car turns over but doesn't fire. Needs a little extra gas to fire. I changed the spark plugs and its marginally better. Should I change the wires now? Maybe the fuel filter? It seems to run good once started and isn't missing.

    Problem 2. Power locks won't lock. The remote keyless or lock on door won't lock the doors, but they will open them. I have to manually lock them all and then the lock button arms the alarm. When I click the lock button I can hear a clicking sound. I have replaced the fuse already. Is this the actuator? Can I change this myself?

    Thanks!
  • Ray: I took my car to a nearby dealership. After inspection they told me it was normal. There was no problem with the oil system. They also compared with two cars of the same model, the same engine on their lots, and saw the same thing happening. I asked if there could be a problem with the oil filter but was told that there was no way to check the oil filter without doing an oil change. I also called two other dealers and they also said it was normal. But one thing that is driving me crazy is that two of my friends bought the same cars as I did but they don't see the delay of the oil light going off at all.

    For the sake of security I paid to do an early oil change at the dealership. They replaced the oil and filter, but unfortunetely, the "problem" remains.

    Should I be concerned any more, Ray?
  • Bobad: No, not before my post. Yesterday, for the sake of security I paid to do an early oil change at the dealership. They replaced the oil and filter, but unfortunetely, the "problem" remains unexpectedly.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "Should I be concerned any more, Ray?"

    Well, your engine's probably just fine, but keep an eye on it as long as you don't obsess to a breakdown. While I tend to take dealership presonnel statements with a grain of salt (having been burned a few times along the way to my dotage status), your dealer guy did demonstrate the same idiosyncrasy on other cars. In any event, remember - it's Hyundai's problem for the first 100,000 miles or ten years, right? (Hang on to your early oil service receipt and all subsequent service receipts, and the warranty claim invoice (if you got one) as proof down the road you were aware of something that seemed odd and made a good faith attempt at early resolution. CYA! ;))
  • nifty56nifty56 Posts: 279
    if possible leave the car over night and let the dealer drive it in the morning.
  • g_acerg_acer Posts: 2
    I have the same problem. I changed to synthetic 5w30 oil and noticed it (it might have been there prior but I may have missed it, since its my wife's car), it would take 3 to 4 sec to go off. About 1000 miles later I changed to a 5w20 oil (synthetic blend), and noticed its a little better, maybe 2 to 3 sec. to go off. In both cases I used genuine hyundai filters (bought a case on the web, http://www.hyundaiparts.net/product_info.php/products_id/912). Seeing that someone else has the same problem leads me to believe its "normal". On my next oil change I may try 5w20 non-synthetic, who knows, maybe the sensor is sensitive to type of oil.
  • g_acer: Hopefully it is normal. :) But let's keep an eye on it and do share info on this issue from now on.
  • fk322fk322 Posts: 15
    You would turn it off in the winter if you were starting from a stopped position in heavy snow. I was told the ESC has an adverse affect on traction in heavy snow. I don't know the specifics as to why. Has anyone else heard this?
Sign In or Register to comment.