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Comments
B - Extensive idling
C - Driving in dusty, rough roads
D - Driving in areas using salt or other corrosive materials or in very cold weather
E - Driving in sandy areas
F - More than 50% Driving in heavy city traffic during hot weather above 90oF (32oC)
G - Driving in mountainous areas
H - Driving as a patrol car, taxi, or other commercial use
I - Driving over 100 MPH (170 KM/H)
C, D, E, & G have nothing to do with your motor oil and if you only meet one, or all, of them you can use the 7,500mile interval.
Now what those 4 things cause you to do is look over the brakes, body, air filter, and suspension more often as they can be affected by those items.
Just let my dealer try and deny any warranty work just because I change my oil at 7,500 mile intervals. I have the oil testing results to prove the oil is still in great shape, probably better that the oil they put in when they change oil for the poor fools that go to them, and they need to tear down the engine and PROVE!! that it was an oil caused failure pointing to my records and my 7,500 mile OCI's means/proves nothing.
btw I had 300,000miles on my 4x4 4cyl using 7,500 mile OCI's and she was running as strong as the day she was new when I finally had to let her go.
With "G" since I do a certain amount of mountainous driving I can see the extra strain put on the engine. It is in a lower gear at higher RPM much of the time while climbing.
There was a lot more to the Mazda6 story but I just stated the basics for brevity sake. No, it wasn't a third party warranty, Could there have been a detail left out or could the person have been lying about the whole incident? Sure. Anything on these boards has to questioned to some degree.
If buying a brand of car depends on the "maintenance" schedule I would suggest one with an oil life meter. You'll be happier it sounds like.
http://www.nordicgroup.us/oil.htm#Recreational%20Oil%20Changing
Per Edmunds
"The Short Story
For most, here's all you need to know: Buy a brand-name oil that exactly matches your vehicle manufacturer's specifications and certification requirements, and change your oil according to the carmaker's recommendations. That will allow your engine to offer maximum performance and last as long as possible. Disastrous consequences await those who deviate from the manufacturer's recommendations. Those who want more, read on."
Whew, now I can sleep at night.
I had the brakes checked a month ago and work done at a franchise repair shop, they installed new pads/ rotors.l/r front ,flushed braking fluid, trans etc . Rear brakes were fine. Everything was ok, no noise, better breaking etc.
After about three weeks driving while the engine is still cold, and doing moderate braking say for a red light I will hear the same squealing noise, up front as I did before.the brakes were checked.
it sounds like drivers side front. It mainly does it when it is cold but can happen 10% of the time when I have been driving for awhile as well. I went back to the repair shop and they said they couldn't reproduce the noise. Happily it did not sound like a bad caliper (which made a very LOUD grinding noise.
Any suggestion what could be causing this and how to procede with the service
business who did the work ? I don't mind paying to keep the car running and in shape condition. ? Maybe I would have been better off going right to the dealer and had the work done there ? Does anyone think it may be a botched repair job ?
Appreciate any suggestions because I need to keep the car at least one more year.
You might be able to go back the seller or sue them in small claims court if it was something they were required to disclose.
I have to agree - seems many of us want our products to be guaranteed for a lifetime. That's ridiculous! Every car wears out - the purpose of a warranty is to give you a reason to buy their car new, as opposed to used, and cheaper. For the expense of a new car, you get peace of mind that if something has been poorly or improperly made, the manufacturer will stand behind it. But how long do you expect them to guarantee a flawless machine? It's gonna wear out, folks. I'd love to have coverage from cradle to grave but from a manufacturer point of view - it's not feasible and stay in business. The car should last around 10 years and 150,000 miles without catastrophic problems, engine or transmission failure, etc. But after that - your expectations should be minimal, if it continues to run comparatively problem free, you are fortunate. Warranty coverage should not be expected forever.
OTOH - I firmly also believe that the manufacturers are often short sighted about how they treat claims by their customers. A $300 repair covered when they're not obligated to cover it, can make a customer for life if you step up - and they should do it more then most of them do so. :shades:
I am also victim for this bad design of 1999 Hyundai Sonata GLS V6. I narrowly escaped from an accident because of this. My car's subframe broke and tire was almost dismantled from the axle while I was taking a turn into our apartment complex.
The mechanics in our area said it unfixable. While searching in internet, I saw your comments regarding the same problem. I hope you will help me in this regard. My car as just 97K mileage. Please respond me how to proceed further, to get my car fixed.
Thanks in advance.
Sasi
While the damaged sub-frame is not repairable Hyundai (according to others here) has been replacing these on a case by case basis as a good-will gesture even though many of the vehicles are long out of any type of warranty and technically not Hyundai's responsibility to replace free of cost. Also, you can phone your local Hyundai dealer and order the part and have it replaced on your dime. This is going to be expensive and probably not worth the costs depending on the condition of your car.
Anyways, does anyone know where I might be able to purchase a cheap replacement?
Now, of course this won't work if there's some damage to the rest of the mirror and it's clear something thwacked it pretty good, causing the mirror to break.
thats why I think a rock hit it or something.
I have to bring it in for some sort of recall so maybe I'll ask them about it.
I figured they wouldnt cover it, thats why I was looking into how much it might cost.
If it happens again, i will take it to the dealer....
Any ideas ? what this might be, Has anyone had a similar issue...
I would look there before bothering to call the dealership and attempting to describe it verbally.
This happened to me again. I checked this time, Both the front and back light-bulbs were blinking fast and DIM.
I took it to the dealer, The problem is by the time I got to the dealer, the problem disappeared. The service Manager, took the bulbs out and put them back-in and said, please bring it back when it consistently fails....
I asked about the relay, he simply said, no that cant be it... I guess I will WAIT until it fails more often or completely
Any other ideas are welcome ....
I took my 03 Sonata LX to NTB (National Tire and Battery) to have the alignment fixed. They fixed the alignment and very well at that, but the problem of my car pulling left even when in the right lane of the highway was not resolved. Long story short, they found my front passenger side Camber to be off by -0.7 degrees. Camber on the sonata is unadjustable. Some suspension component is most likely bent, warped, or broken and I was wondering if anyone has had to deal with camber issues and how they fixed the problem. What component was damaged and causing the camber offset? If a part was replaced, did that fix the camber issue?
Any and all information is greatly Appreciated!
Thank You
While I had my Sonata at my mechanic for a ball joint and a new tire, he called me to tell me my subframe was completely rusted out and it is a safety issue and I should take it up with Hyundai. So I did, I called Hyundai consumer affairs and made my case very strongly that this is a clear safety issue and a subframe on a car should NOT be rusting out and if Hyundai does not fix this on their dime that I would make a huge stink about this. They admitted to me on the phone that this is not "normal" and to take it to a dealer for them to confirm the issue. I did that and they did confirm the problem. The service manager said to me he would talk to his rep and call me on Monday(today), but stated that because of high mileage and the fact that I havent been doing regular servicing and been a "loyal" Hyundai customer they might noy pay for the repair. Watch out for them playing the" loyalty " card. It's bull#$@!. Force the issue with them, this is not a mechanical thing, it is a safety thing and this should NOT happen! Be forceful in your comments, but remain respectful so they will owrk with you.
I just now got a call and they are ordering the part and repairing it at NO COST TO ME! I will have my car back bby Thursday or Friday with a new subframe.
So I hope this info helps someone out there. If you own a Sonata have the subframe checked before it breaks while youre driving. Luckily mine was found out before any more damamge was done to me or my car.
You can refer to my case number : 3254818
email me if I can be of help or support, Hyundai will pay for this to keep it from becoming more publicized and becaome a recall.
pesphoto@gmail.com
I am a sonata owner and had this problem and with persistence got Hyundai to make right on the repairs.
1. to increase fuel economy somewhat, notice the 4 cylinder EPA sticker now indicates a modest increase over previous years with a 4 speed auto.
2. to keep up with the competitiion. Honda,at least, has had 5 speed automatics in their 4 cylinders for at least one model year.
I love conspiracy theories...X Files material for sure!!
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f148eb4/18!keywords=#18
And according to my testdrive last weekend of the facelifted 2009 3,3 model - they still havent solved this annoyance. A lot of other improvements, but obviously not this specific (most likely A/T-related) problem.
Oh, and another thing... I got a bubble in each of my front tires after the pot holes this winter, and the dealer recommended I change them. Is it okay to change just 2? Like I said, I have 45,000 miles on the other ones. I was thinking about getting Kumho Solus KH16s cuz they're only like $100 each, and they have pretty good reviews/ratings... much better than the stock MXM4s...