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I better be, 'cause the resale value on these puppies suck!
Thanks for the imput.
Assuming you're talking about the front passenger side door, it sounds like you've got a dealer repair item. If it's the rear passenger side door, could the lever for the childproof lock be positioned in an intermediate position?
Take it easy ... and walk away from the Hyundai dealership ... maybe you should just take it to a different Hyundai dealer? Squeaky brakes happen to many cars and can (usually) be easily remedied.
I already got myself OEM brake pads (about $24)and a Wurth ABS brake pad spray. Any last minute advices before I actually do it?
Now to my "problem". I have a 2003 Sonata, V-6, bought new, and with ~1,700 miles on it so far. The transmission 2-3 upshift flare problems I've read about on this forum in earier posts are opposite to what I'm experiencing. For the first 2-3 shift after a cold startup, my shift from second gear "slams" into third gear quite abruptly. (Honda-like*) Funny thing is that at the next acceleration from a complete stop, the 2-3 shift is very smooth and remains so thereafter, as do all other upshifts. Only the first time from a dead-cold start. I realize I have 100,000 miles or ten years to deal with this if it becomes more objectionable, but I am curious if anyone else has experienced this oddity.
*An earlier post referenced Honda automatic transmissions as having abrupt shift characteristics. I found this to be true of my 96 Accord. Consumer Guide mentioned it too, and recommended a product called "Lubegard ATF Supplement". A flush and refill at 20,000 miles with DEXRON-III and one bottle of Lubegard Black definitely tamed my Honda automatic's shift quality. A Honda dealer's service writer told me subsequently that Honda of America now recommends using Lubegard for customer complaints of harsh shifting. The stuff's has been a bit difficult to come by for consumers since Lubegard primarily serves the transmission rebuild trade. But, recently they have begun supplying their products through NAPA stores, though. The stuff comes in 10 oz. bottles. There are four ATF products - Lubegard "Red" (named for the bottle color) for general use in cars in which the car manufacturer's recommended fluid is used ($10.95). Lubegard makes three specialty ATF supplements to be used with DEXRON fluids to convert them to the OEM specified characteristics at time of rebuild or flush and refill: Lubegard "Black" for Hondas and many imports (including Hyundai) requiring a "highly friction modified fluid" ($14.95); Lubegard "Green" for certain recent Ford automatic transmissions that require a "Mercon V" fluid (again, $14.95); and Lubegard "Platinum" which is apparantly a universal product for ANY specialty application ($17.95). THAT'S why the trannie rebuilders love these specialty ATF supplements - they only have to stock good ol' cheap and plentiful DEXRON fluid in bulk. I suspect as production of Lubegard Platinum ramps up, the company will eventually discontinue "Black" and "Green". For more info about Lubegard, just set your browser's search engine to "lubegard". VERY interesting reading, especially the part about the history of automatic transmission failures subsequent to the ban on processed sperm whale oil in the early eighties. Refined sperm whale oil was used in ridiculously low concentration in all ATF prior to that. (And no, I'm NOT a shill for Lubegard. I -was- skeptical but went ahead and bought one bottle and it turned out to be a problem solver.)
My brother has a 97 Elantra which has been to the shop twice for transmission problems.
So all I need to do is get a bottle of Lubegard Black and just add it to the transmission oil?
I did the internet search on Lubegard but couldn’t find the reading you were referring to.
It just brought up a lot of companies’ URL. Can you post the URL if you can? Thx.
When I take the car in for its first oil change, I will ask about it.
It should be used in the ratio of 1 oz. to each QUART of tranny fluid. So, one 10 oz. bottle treats a transmission with a 10 quart capacity. Measure carefully with this stuff. Too much by any significant degree would eventually require a complete flush and refill as it permeates the clutch facings. (Expect up to 1,000 miles before the full effect is felt.) As always, do not overfill your transmission. The resulting churning and foaming could cause serious transmission damage.
"...I did the internet search on Lubegard but couldn’t find the reading you were referring to.
It just brought up a lot of companies’ URL. Can you post the URL if you can? Thx."
http://www.lubegard.com You're welcome!
-Ray
By the way, does anyone know how to remove the vertical tranny valve body pan on these Hyundai ATFs without removing the entire front end first? There sure doesn't appear to be much working room in this area.
You might request that the dealer run an alternator output test since it does seem you lost your OEM battery sooner than you feel was approriate. Is the situation worse, better, or the same with the new battery? The rear window defroster pulls a LOT of amps initially, so a momentary dimming of lights may be normal. There's nothing I can think of specifically about the windshield defroster other than it's part of the HVAC system. If the fan speed is set to "High", that would pull some amps, and, most windshield defroster settings default to cycling the AC compressor on to avoid blowing moist air on the cold windshield. Maybe those two factors conspire to draw down available "juice" for other electical consumption initially. As for the battery's seemingly premature failure, you didn't indicate what your climatic conditions are. This year winter has shaped up to be fairly severe except for southern California's delightful warmth (Never mind that southern California's sun worhipping majority will probably be facing mandatory water rationing come July or August unless we get some rain...).
Severe weather could tax a battery - cold winter starting or heavy summer AC use for instance. (By the way, what winter weight motor oil do you use? Something like 20W-50 is a battery killer in cold weather. Not great for the engine, either, in those conditions.) OEM batteries are reasonably good, but rarely have the capacity of the best replacement batteries. My 2003 Sonata battery -looks- for all the world like a Delco, but doesn't have the green sight-glass to indicate normal charge level by specific gravity. It's branded, "DELKOR". (DELco KORea?) I've always figured if I get 2 years out of an OEM battery, I'm doing well. Some have gone considerably less. One (A Delco in my previous 1996 Honda Accord) went over three years before it pooped. Go figure.
-Ray Haeffele
I noticed a faint brake squeal on my 2002 GLS V6 but it was only once. It seems to have stopped now. Anyway in response to your rattling sound post, a rattling sound that seemed to come from the front passenger side was driving me nuts (the sound never used to come when the front passenger seat was occupied- only when empty did the sound come). I checked the sunroof, passenger seat , dash and so on, until one fine day I noticed the source of the problem. The seat belt buckle for that side, when not engaged by a passenger, was hitting against the side wall whenever I hit a bump giving rise to the annoying sound. I fixed it by adjusting the position of the buckle.
Also another hollow sound that comes from the front left wheel well when I go over bumps, but this looks more like a design issue rather than a malfunction
Thanks for the response. The problem is the same with the new battery. I would like to blame it on the weather, but, unfortunately I've had this problem since I owned the car. They ran an "electrically system" check, but "no" problem.
I am, however, going to get a new alternator, which is one of the things you had mentioned. After talking with a Regional Service Rep, he mentioned that the OE alternators are not performing as well as they had expected. Hopefully this will solve my problem. Haven't received it to date. I will let you know. Car didn't start - Using 10-30; the dealer changed my oil and used 5-30 and I wont go into that conversation - long story. Thanks, Tom
this condition is normal and does not reflect any malfunction of the electrical system?????
1. Airbag light is lit up and won't go off when all of the others do...Is this something I need to get checked out?
2. When I unlock the passenger's side door with the key, all doors unlock. When I use the drivers side door, it will sometimes stick, and will only open the drivers side. Is this a problem, or is it standard?
Thanks!
*Although it's a moot point now that I'm accustomed to the keyless entry/alarm fob.
I noticed the same clicking sound that you experienced; it may happen a little more often than yours did. Have you had any more problems with this? I've tried explaining to the technician, but you know how that goes. I may have to just sit there and start and stop the car until they hear it. I was just curious if anything was diagnosed and/or do you still have the problem.
Thanks, Sonata01
Thanks!
I currently have a 2003 2.7 liter V-6 Sonata LX. I put in a K&N air filter as a replacement for the stock air filter and the difference in gas mileage is that on the highway I get 33mpg which is 6 mpg more then advertised. However in the city my mileage has royally sucked and varies from 15 to 17.7. In short, with the filter: highway good gains but city, either the same or worse. I am wondering if anyone else has done this and what their experience has been.
The second question is regarding strut bar for the sonata. I would like to know if anyone did this, if it helped the car's handling ability at all, and if so in what way. Reason I am asking is because I've been getting conflicting answers about strut bars. Some tuners are telling me "it makes no real difference in stabalizing the car in turns and reducing body roll" to "it makes a world of difference". I realize underbody sway bars are the mods that really have a guaranteed impact but that also costs significantly more then the strut bar.
Thank You
Dealer found nothing wrong with the car. The problem appeared again today. Have people met resistance getting dealers to replace the alternator? Any other potential solutions?
*Lights and AC simultaneously at idle put a heavy load on the battery until acceleration allows the alternator to kick in with higher current delivery.
Granted the alternator *IS* charging and all ... but why the discrepancy? Also, we've had the batter replaced TWICE before this last weekend... So yeah, I'm having a little trouble getting Hyundai to replace the alternator. But as far as dimming lights, I've never noticed that...
1. I had to take it to the dealership around 5000 miles because of a sound and DRAG on engine when I had engaged my A/C. Problem was trash in the A/C well, which they removed, and then after the repair, they washed my car totally inside and out.
2. I have a hard shifting problem between 2 and 3 gear when the engine is still car. More like a minor slamming.
3. Now my right passenger side power window is stuck half way down. I can bring it all the way down, but only half way up. Bringing it up gives me a "sticking" sound and then it stops at halfway.
Granted these are not MAJOR problems, COMPARED TO WHAT SOME PEOPLE ARE GETTING. iT IS JUST HAVING ME WONDER IF i AM GOING TO GET MAJOR PROBLEMS HERE SHORTLY....after my warranty is over.
2> I have one abrupt 2-3 shift when the car is first driven from a cold start. This seems prevalent with this automatic transaxle. I figure it's Hyundai's problem for 10 years or 100,000 miles. The rest of the time all shifts are silken. One thing, if you've gotten your transmission fluid drained and refilled, or are considering doing so, it's IMPERATIVE that you only use a Mitsubishi "SP-III" specification fluid! There are three sources for this specification fluid - Mitsubishi, Hyundai, and Kia. Use of anything else will rapidly result in poor shift quality and is highly likely to result in eventual transaxle failure. Any evidence that transaxle damage was due to use of the wrong fluid would void your powertrain warranty coverage for transaxle repair. Very few, if any, independent transmission shops will use the required factory fluid. They prefer to use commonly available GM specification "Dexron-III" bulk fluid with a top-off of a supplement, mostly available only to the trade, that claims it optimizes "Dexron-III" specification ATF to the car maker's own ATF specification. It doesn't. (Many car makers are now specifying their own proprietary, heavily friction modified ATFs these days.) As far as I'm aware, real "SP-III" ATF is ONLY available through Hyundai, Kia, and Mitsubishi dealers. You can look at Wall*Mart, K-mart, Pep Boys, NAPA, Autozone, etc., but you won't find it. I picked up a bottle at a Kia dealer to carry in the trunk for top-up purposes. As sold under the Kia brand, it was $3.99/qt. The Hyundai brand was $4.50/qt. Both carried the same catalog number though the labels differed by brand name. (Hyundai owns Kia, now.) The Mitsubishi "SP-III" ATF was $6.00/qt. <gag> My 2003 Sonata only has ~6,800 miles on it so it still has the factory-fill fluid in the tranny. I intend to drain the transaxle and refill it myself at 12,000 miles.
3> Some of the power window regulators on the pre-2003 Sonatas and XG350s have been troublesome. There was a running change in these mechanisms in late 2002. Your car may be equipped with the troubled units. Since your car is less than 5 years old, if it has fewer than 60,000 miles, and you reside in the U.S., a replacement should be covered under your car's "basic" warranty. Get hoppin'.