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Comments
My '98 has no problems defrosting in this sub-zero weather (-7 this morning on my way to work :-(
Im thinking it must be a Max air door or something of that nature. Anyone know where it is on the Rora???
Thank you
#1 is Traction/ABS lights...I assume a bad wheel bearing and/or sensor. Anyway to tell which one it is?
#2 SES light now on. Seems to have happened with #1. Can this set the SES light? Torque converter doesn't appear to want to lock up. Any advice? Strange thing is the TC used to lock nearly immediately...even during light acceleration. Car's more fun now, though.
#3 Ice caused my wipers to bind and caused the plastic mounts to snap on my wiper transmission. Got the whole transmission assembly removed, not too bad only the weather here (ohio) could have been better. Of course, NOBODY stocks this item, so I ordered from GMpartsdirect...boy these guys are cheap. Crossing fingers here. No wipers means I can't drive the car, so I'm hoping it won't take forever.
My serpentine belt just snapped on my 96 Aurora with 131K. I already got a spare belt on my shelf, and I after searching this board it looks like all you need is a breaker bar to replace it. Would someone be able to give some steps on how to replace the belt? I am not very knowledgeable on these cars, but I have been successful at replacing the FPR, plugs/wires headlight etc.
I also got a water pump belt and can change that too if anyone has an idea of how you get to it and replace it, I got no clue.
Thanks in advance!
Maytag
#2--Get it scanned somewhere. If the light is on then a code has definatley been registered. Ill bet you its a O2 sensor.
Thanks!
Check messages 1480, 1481, 1492, and 1500 in this discussion. It's fairly easy to replace.
I'm interested to know about the big belt, too.
Thanks for the message numbers! After reviewing them, it sounds like the serpentine belt wont be too tough. I wonder if while I have it off, it will become intuitive on how to replace the water pump belt. I did not see any tips on how to replace that one, if anyone has a tip to offer on how to do it, I am all ears!
Thanks!
Maytag
to slip the belt on and off the pulley. While you've got the belt off, spin the pulley and makesureit spins freely and doesn't sound dry. You can force grease into the pulley if it sounds dry to lubricate. If the pulley binds, NAPA carrys replacement pulleys.
the FPR is about a year old.
Thanks for the tips on the water pump belt. I took off the engine cover to start working on the serpentine belt. That must not be the cover people were talking about. There appears to be a metal plate over the belts by the passenger inner fender held on by 4 or 5 bolts. I assume this is the cover that must come off. I am also trying to locate the tensioner. Is it on top, or on the bottom?
Thanks!
Maytag
I've been playing with that belt guard metal plate, not much fun there. I got 6 bolts off so far one of which is very long and it hits the inner fender well before I can remove it completely. It seems there are two more bolts down low, one near the firewall, and the other near the front of the car. Looks like they are my only hope of getting the plate out. I took a pictures of what I was talking about:
My belt mess
I also notice there is something mounted under the positive battery cable wire that is bolted to the plate, maybe this is a motor mount? Do I want to undo that as well? Am I even in the right place?
Thanks!
Maytag
1. Take the engine out of the car
2. Cut the bolts
Seriously. You can read a thread of mine from a few months back about replacing the tensioner pulley and the idler pulley and all the trouble I had to go through with that. I'm not joking though, the bolts are literally too long to come out while the engine is in place. And to answer your other question, yes that is one of the motor mounts underneath the positive battery cable. You can take that apart too, but unless you get the bracket out, you can't get the motor mount out and like I said...the bracket will not come out unless the engine is out or you cut the bolts. I wouldn't take the engine mount apart though, unless you have some auxillary support for the engine.
My old post #1306 (link should work):
stickking1 Nov 12, 2003 10:34am!keywords=allin:msgtext%20limit:.ef0429a%20tensioner
But to tell you the truth, you don't have to do any of that to get the belt on the car. Last time I changed my belt, it was done in about 40 minutes in my driveway. No bolts out, no tools needed that I remember. It was frustrating but it just takes a little work to get it in there. It's easier if you have a picture of the engine and the "belt-path" in front of you. It's not easy to see in there, but the picture helps you visualize where it's all supposed to go. I can't really explain how to do it...you just feed the end of the belt in between two pulleys and once it's there, you'll have some space between the pulleys and the bracket to work. I would suggest feeding enough in that you can get it around the crank pulley (at the bottom) and then working your way up (You'll have to get under the car to start this).
Another tip: You might have to pop a section of the wheel well plastic out from behind the right-front tire to get a better look at everything. It's been a few months since I did the job and I can't remember if I had to do that or not. Good luck, let us know how it goes.
-Brian
Forgive the red circle..that was part of the old post. The hardest part is getting the belt inside that tensioner assembly (the silver bracket in the red circle). The solution is simple, really. There should be a little space between the tensioner and the engine block...you just have to sneak the belt between there. Tricky, considering that you have to do it all while your view is obstructed by the car itself...but it can be done. Good luck!
Thanks for the message and the diagram. There are a couple of thoughts going through my mind:
1) You said you did not need tools - didnt you at least have to loosen the tensioner? Were you really able to somehow wriggle the belt on the tensioner via the "little space between the tensioner and the engine block" you mentioned?
2) I cannot even imagine how you could work the belt around the pulleys with that metal guard on. If the guard stays on during the installation, I cannot seem to imagine how there is enough room to get at the tensioner to loosen it.
The picture of the motor is definitely helpful. Guess I will take the car in the garage, while still able to run on the battery charge, jack up the front passenger wheel, try to pry back the inner fender trim and give it a go. If you could get back to me about the tensioner, it would be great!
Thanks for the assistance!
Maytag, in the freezing cold of Massachusetts
#2. You can see on the tensioner assembly in the picture, the slot for a "breaker-bar". To get the belt up onto the tensioner, you can sneak it in between the pulley and the block and then seat it...but at some point you'll have to release the tension with your breaker-bar so you can seat the belt correctly on all of the pulleys. I hope I'm not just confusing you more here
The bottom line is that the axis-mount (the huge metal bracket) was not designed to come out for this job. After having to deal with it in that old post, I'm not sure that they designed it to ever come out, unless the engine came with it!
The belt does not need to work "around" all of the pulleys, it has to work in between them. You know from trying that there is no way to go around the entire bracket with the belt...you have to feed the belt inside and work from there.
Now I know I'm getting confusing. Wish I could help further.
Well just got in from the garage. stickking1 was right, really was not to tough if you got the picture. After getting the bolts back in on the guard. I had a look at the tensioner, once I figured out where it is. Then I found the square looking up at me, and played with an eight inch 3/8 extension to loosen it. The breaker bar had a bendy end, so it would not do anything for me. Taking the plastic lower wheel/underneath trim also provided very good access to the pulleys. Once I had the belt routing down, thanks to the picture, I had the belt completely on, except the AC compressor pulley, which had a small edge not on all the way. A few quick cranks and it was on right. Started it up, and its doing great! From 11.5 to 14.5 volts - cool!
I did not have time to do the water pump belt... Hope I dont regret it... I got to get up early tomorrow, as I got to get my wife to the hospital to deliver our 3rd baby - the boy! My wife really didnt want to go in any other car but the Aurora. At least now, its ready for the ride.
Thanks all for the help! Special thanks to stickking1! Again, this group has helped me save $$$ on Aurora repairs!
Maytag
Hm, seems like the little guy is already an Aurorian. I guess we all know what his 1st car will be. . .
------> CONGRATULATIONS <--------
Other than that if nothing shows on a scan my first guess is the infamous FPR. Theres probably something mechanically wrong with it that is screwing up the fuel pressure.
I had a problem with my Rora needing excessive cranking to start. I didnt think it was the FPR because I examined it and it looked fine. But after a few mechanics couldnt find the cause I changed the FPR just for the heck of it. Solved the problem. Only reason I post this story is because even though the FPR may look like its working fine with no gas sitting in the tube it may still have an internal problem.
-Brian
Now that it is all the time, it could be that the filter rapidly got worse, but that seems sort of unlikely. Maybe the pump is going, or the FPR (which seems common). It could be electrical or something as well, but it just sounds like fuel...
how hard is it to change the fuel filter? i know my last car was easy, but ive heard sometimes there a pain to get to. i suppose i should try this first, as it needs to be replaced anyway. also, my gas mileage went down the crapper. avg is 13.4. i do all city driving, and its COOOOLD (-16 in mn like mike said!) which im sure is effecting it, but it still feels too low.
ive heard of the leaky fuel rail, where does it leak? is it visible? should i check with it on? i checked when i got home, didn't smell gas or see any when i took the cover off
it DEFINATLY feels fuel related
thanks
Most likely, if you run into a problem, it'll be rusty and hard to disconnect the old filter. Seems like I have bad luck with that kind of stuff myself. ..must be those Michigan winters
Here is the issue: I want to use the 16" in the winter to protect the 17" wheels from the snow and salt (especially after the postings I read).
As a result I will have the good tires on the summer wheels.
It could only happen to me.
Good luck..
first, i guess i had a tank of REALLY bad gas, because the problem went away after a fill up, never thought gas could be that bad, the car drove horrible for that week. i got a fuel filter anyways, only $10
second when i brought my car to aamco for a oil change (-18 this week!) they must have oiled up the balljoints or somthing, because my popping noise is gone (99% sure it is, used to be pretty bad, haven't heard it once yet).
third, found the area of the coolant leak, comming from the radiator, looks like a connector. for now ill keep filling up the coolant, worry about it when it warms up, its a slow leak anyway.
and last, but definatly not least......im single again -wipes brow- thankfully.
If its cold where you are the REV down might be effected by that.
It says I still had 10 months or 36000 left on it since the car only had 12000 miles on it when I bought it. Can Carfax be trusted or should I call GM to verify? Thanks
Did you buy your car as a Certified Used Car? If so, it should have a 3 month, 3,000 mile warranty from the date/mileage you purchased it at.
I live in south Fl so it's never gotten cold (50 was about the low). What I meant by REV down was there was some vibrations I felt in the cockpit after revving it and letting off the gas. It might be mounts too because my engine moves a ton when you shift (esp. D to P).
$103
Some idzhit cut wires and hot wired. I'm trying to get back to factory but there is a problem with the color coding. Two black, Two lt. blue, and one white, all 10 guage I think. The white is obvious, the lt. blue have a factory splice down line so no problem. But the black is mighty iffy depending upon the logic they may have used for the #2 & #3 relays in the control box by the Rt. Front of the car. Coming out of there is where they cut the wires. One of the Black wires goes to Relay #3 pin 87 and chassis ground, but I have no idea where the other terminates or the logic applied to it. I would need to know the logic to determine if there is a hidden defect or if they just wanted the fans running all the time. To get the wiring correct, I need to know if the Black wire from the Left Fan or Right Fan goes to the chassis ground and pin 87.
The wiring schematic shows a black wire (ckt 532) connecting the primary cooling fan motor (I don't know if this is left or right) to pin 87 of the low speed cooling fan relay (located on firewall under or near the cruise control module). The other wire from that motor is white (ckt 504) and connects indirectly to ground through the series/parallel cooling fan relay.
The secondary cooling fan motor is connected directly to ground by a black wire (ckt 1350). The other wire from that motor is light blue (ckt 409) and connects to two relays (series/parallel and high speed).
Two things to note:
* all three relays have pin 87
* the black wires to the two fans are different circuits
You are right about the wire being gauge 10, which is equivalent to 5mm diameter shown in the manual.
I bought my replacement ACDelco FPR via internet from an Olds/Cadillac dealer for $47.
Les
Two of my three vehicles (ones I have to maintain) there was much praise for the Khumo's. The third vehicle they seemed to be some of the worst. But they were so much cheaper I took a chance. I got them locally because I didn't have time to wait on an order. They have a nice red dot for aligning the valve stem. Unfortunately the mounter missed 3 of the 4 and I'm going back to fix that. Possibly the problem of the annoying vibration at 70 MPH. Or maybe it needs RFB, or maybe CV shafts. But at any speed below 65 or above 75 they seemed fine. They ride quiet, smooth, and seem to have good handling. Traction seems to be good both wet and dry. At one point, someone annoying the heck out of me kept insisting he put his pickup on my front bumper in traffic moving 85. After 50 miles of this annoyance I got a chance to air it out. Pushing into triple digits for a few miles when I got the chance he got the hint and they handled beautifully at those speeds. Car was a little noisy from the air moving across the skin at that speed. Sounded like being in an airplane and a little spooky to have that sound with all four on the ground. Just thought this opinion might be helpful. If you have a different opinion please reply.
I really appreciate this. Oh, and one more thing. Does your manual say anything about the diode that was added as part of the SB concerning ABS/Traction module? I obviously don't have the added "fix harness" and didn't see any diodes in the wiring. Don't even know if that effects the primary (left) or secondary fan. Also noted that although it uses 10 guage wiring normally limited to 30 amps, the fuse feeding the high speed relay is 60 amps. Is this overkill or a mistake? I think that would normally require about 6 guage and didn't see such wiring. Awaiting your knowledge of this circuit as it seems pertinent that we have an answer. We don't want to burn up our cars because some nimrod over fused the wiring. I don't know what the normal or starting draw of these motors is but I am hoping having it wired correctly will add life to the bearings and improve my mileage a bit. A constant draw of 60 amps on this one circuit would require a heavy duty alternator. I'm thinking the normal draw would be more like 8 amps each and if so eliminating 16 amps of draw when its not necessary should help.