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Comments
Is that recall, only for the 1997 Auroras?
Peace.
Javi
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
The recall notice that appeared on MyGMLink stated "all 1995 - 1997 model year Oldsmobile Aurora vehicles." "all" was bolded.
The paper copy I received in the mail only mentioned 1997; it was specific with my Classic's VIN.
Other versions of the recall (04014) notice have mentioned Cadillacs, too. Bottom line is that I do not know. You might try Olds Customer Assitance Center at 800.630.6537. They will ask for your VIN.
Good luck.
Les
Thanks for the 95 updates.
Henri
P.S. I am writing from Marion, S.C. On vacation and the car has been great on 85, 95, 440, and route 40, over 700 miles and counting.
It was the notorious rotten egg smell that most people describe occurring with bad O2 Sensors or a plugged cat converter. I figured I'd start at the sensors and see where it got me, after all cat's are $500+ from what I've seen for this car. Well the good news is that it was indeed my O2 Sensors.
After 3 pain staking hours of trying to gumby my arms around the exhaust to loosen the one on the rear manifold I had them in. This of course after I was highly frustrated for having to go to 3 stores and spend $115-ish to replace them.
Anyway the great news is that it made an amazing difference in my car so I figured I'd let you guys know in case you are experiencing similar problems or if you just wouldn't mind getting them out of the way, after all even if they don't need changed you should see some horsepower and gas mileage increase.
Lucky for me I saw ALOT. The car seems alot more responsive off the line. I'm not one for burnouts but it is definitely laying some patches now, this wouldn't sound impressive if my tires weren't only a few months old(and they aren't cheap tires). The car also seems to have made an amazing turn around in its mid-range power. The high end didn't change too much. It idles better and I could swear it sounds a little throagtier (but I think that's in my head).
Just for sh@# and giggles I took the car out and did a couple tests on my accelerometer before I changed them, it seemed to get a consistant 165(to the wheels) over all. After I got the new ones in it is showing a pretty strong 190 and once I did get 195. I know those things aren't always accurate but the few times I've used it then went to use a real dyno (on other cars) it seemed to be within 10% of the actual horsepower.
I know it all sounds crazy, infact it was hard to believe the difference myself. I'm not sure if the rest of you will see such an improvement, after all my O2's were about to fail any day, they smelled awful, but for some reason the car kept running, which to me is wierd. These were also the original sensors w/ 125k on them.
The O2 sensors I got were Bosch OE 15702's. There is 2 of them on my model and it looks like 4 on the 96's and up. The front one on the manifold is pretty easy to get at but the rear manifold is horrible, if you decide to do it be ready to scratch up your fore arms and use some brute strengh. I would say it would take an average person 2-3 hours to do it. Most of the time being spent on the rear manifold.
Good luck to anyone else who gives it a shot. Just wanted to share a positive Aurora experience for once.
OBDII Codes pulled:
P0138- Input voltage from O2 sensor in Bank 1 is too high for current operating conditions
P0307- Misfire in Cylinder #7
P1139- not exactly sure does anyone know?
I have replaced all the spark plugs and wires and coils with AC/DELCO. I am still getting the same error codes seen above. Quite frustrating to say the least. Still lurching at a light with the brake on and loss of power. When the A/C turned on the entire car starts to shake. Should I consider the fuel injectors as my next step? Any help would truly be appreciated.
--Robert
I really dont want to use a razor that close to the door. One false slip and . . . . .
The same is true for harsh solvents.
Henri
Also anywhere for reveal moldings?
I'm taking it to the dealer Monday so they can take a look at it, for now my window has to stay open or down.
Man, this is whack.
Javi
Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
im not sure why, but it comes and goes, probably a loose wire
I'd post moe on prob, but keyboard is acting up again. Time to go to house and swap good keyboard back that my cous. borrowed to finish paper last week.
-Brian
You know I did not really get a chance to check out the front passenger window completely, the window stoppped working on Saturday 6.26.2004, so I gave the Aurora a rest since I had to work on Sunday, so today Monday morning at 7:00am took it to the dealer, I know they will take care of that since it's covered under my GM Warranty, which covers "Electrical". I went in and they were like "okay we'll take a look".
I just don't know how long they will take. You all know dealers, some can take care if the problem the same day, some will take up to 3 days or something.
So I will let all you know the outcome.
Javi.
Man, I love that warranty.
Peace.
Javi.
Trany has about 150,000 miles on it. Fluid has not been changed. (Which I am going to do in the next day or so with filter to see if the problem is just bad tranny fluid and to see if something fell out of the tranny)
For the most part this car still runs strong, has a total of 184,000 miles on it. No problems shifting, engine runs good, etc...
Any thoughts on this trany rattle sound? before I run it to the dealer.
The motor was not running slow or buzzing at all, the window just stayed down and would not close/roll up. Usually people get some kind of warning that their window is failing, mine didn't.
Peace.
Javi.
Changed out the trany fluid and filters today. Had some minor residue on the pan magnet but no major metal shavings etc... for the amount of mileage on the tranny and the fluid, it still looked pretty good. Im sure the viscosity was shot.
I checked the exhaust heat shield and could not really find anything loose with it.
When the tranny is cold there is no sound coming out, however give it a couple of minutes of run time and the rattling sound starts up.
Even in park I get the sound when slowly rev the engine. I wondering if it could be the torque convertor or tranny bands etc...
Any suggestions or thoughts.
Patrick
Thanks in advance.
Greg
FYI the bearings are located in the strut mounts and really aren't replaceable by themselves. Just buy a complete mount.
My second question is what is the thing on top of TB that runs to cruise and somewhere down into the engine? It's a type of special elbow looking thing and is cracked and leaking air like my PCV elbows are doing (that's why this post sounds kind of urgent).
Car starts fine-the display with the security light and abs lights works, but thats all. I replaced the instrument panel and heater control panel but they still don't work. I have not removed the seat yet, could there be wires under the seat for the dash?
Greg
'96 Autobahn
,good luck Dan
Thanks for the feedback ... my blower wasn't working at all yesterday so I pulled the control module out to see if there were any burned wires. Negative .. The GM service manual has a troubleshooting flowchart that anyone with a voltmeter can use to trace trace the problem. Bingo it pointed right to the blower control module. I left the module out of its compartment because I didn't have the replacement part yet. The blower started working half way to work this AM ... I burned my hand on that heatsink thing trying to see just how warm it gets when working correctly. Next time you need parts you might want to check out http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ My total cost with shipping came to $62.16 for the blower control module. PN 52470336 .. These are OEM GM parts.
Anybody got the GM part number of these for the 95 through 99 model year?
can be had from gmpartsdirect.com for $7.51 ea plus S/H