Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

1383941434488

Comments

  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Hey blk97aurora,

    Is that recall, only for the 1997 Auroras?

    Peace.
    Javi
    Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Javi,

    The recall notice that appeared on MyGMLink stated "all 1995 - 1997 model year Oldsmobile Aurora vehicles." "all" was bolded.

    The paper copy I received in the mail only mentioned 1997; it was specific with my Classic's VIN.

    Other versions of the recall (04014) notice have mentioned Cadillacs, too. Bottom line is that I do not know. You might try Olds Customer Assitance Center at 800.630.6537. They will ask for your VIN.

    Good luck.

    Les
  • buckdogbuckdog Member Posts: 19
    Look for offical recall notice around august. The rails are now in GM's warehouses but the return lines need to be manufactured yet.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Buckdog: Thanks for the info, where did you get it??? My 95 is dead at the dealer and can't wait 'till Aug. so I am going to try to get the new rail installed now, somehow!
  • buckdogbuckdog Member Posts: 19
    A source told me. You should be able to get the new rail now. But most likely won't be covered under recall billing until offical notice is give to dealers. That will be when dealers get their parts from warehouses. You most likely should be able to get rembursed once recal is offical. The rail for the '95 is a different part # than that for the '96-97.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I absolutely love the information I get off of these boards. I never thought when I started this thing that it would be around 6 years later, going strongs, and chuck full of usefull information and a super group of Aurorians.

    Thanks for the 95 updates.

    Henri

    P.S. I am writing from Marion, S.C. On vacation and the car has been great on 85, 95, 440, and route 40, over 700 miles and counting.
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Buckdog: Would you happen to have access to the part number for the new, recall rail for the 95?
  • ericmfericmf Member Posts: 39
    So I finally got around to changing my O2 sensors after smelling them for the last few months.

    It was the notorious rotten egg smell that most people describe occurring with bad O2 Sensors or a plugged cat converter. I figured I'd start at the sensors and see where it got me, after all cat's are $500+ from what I've seen for this car. Well the good news is that it was indeed my O2 Sensors.

    After 3 pain staking hours of trying to gumby my arms around the exhaust to loosen the one on the rear manifold I had them in. This of course after I was highly frustrated for having to go to 3 stores and spend $115-ish to replace them.

    Anyway the great news is that it made an amazing difference in my car so I figured I'd let you guys know in case you are experiencing similar problems or if you just wouldn't mind getting them out of the way, after all even if they don't need changed you should see some horsepower and gas mileage increase.

    Lucky for me I saw ALOT. The car seems alot more responsive off the line. I'm not one for burnouts but it is definitely laying some patches now, this wouldn't sound impressive if my tires weren't only a few months old(and they aren't cheap tires). The car also seems to have made an amazing turn around in its mid-range power. The high end didn't change too much. It idles better and I could swear it sounds a little throagtier (but I think that's in my head).

    Just for sh@# and giggles I took the car out and did a couple tests on my accelerometer before I changed them, it seemed to get a consistant 165(to the wheels) over all. After I got the new ones in it is showing a pretty strong 190 and once I did get 195. I know those things aren't always accurate but the few times I've used it then went to use a real dyno (on other cars) it seemed to be within 10% of the actual horsepower.

    I know it all sounds crazy, infact it was hard to believe the difference myself. I'm not sure if the rest of you will see such an improvement, after all my O2's were about to fail any day, they smelled awful, but for some reason the car kept running, which to me is wierd. These were also the original sensors w/ 125k on them.

    The O2 sensors I got were Bosch OE 15702's. There is 2 of them on my model and it looks like 4 on the 96's and up. The front one on the manifold is pretty easy to get at but the rear manifold is horrible, if you decide to do it be ready to scratch up your fore arms and use some brute strengh. I would say it would take an average person 2-3 hours to do it. Most of the time being spent on the rear manifold.

    Good luck to anyone else who gives it a shot. Just wanted to share a positive Aurora experience for once.
  • mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    The difference when the 02 sensors fail the computer goes off a preset fuel/air map with rigid points on it. Fuel economy and power drops when this happens but the car will continue to run.
  • sephrothsephroth Member Posts: 15
    1997 Olds Aurora with 88000 miles
    OBDII Codes pulled:
    P0138- Input voltage from O2 sensor in Bank 1 is too high for current operating conditions

    P0307- Misfire in Cylinder #7

    P1139- not exactly sure does anyone know?

    I have replaced all the spark plugs and wires and coils with AC/DELCO. I am still getting the same error codes seen above. Quite frustrating to say the least. Still lurching at a light with the brake on and loss of power. When the A/C turned on the entire car starts to shake. Should I consider the fuel injectors as my next step? Any help would truly be appreciated.
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Member Posts: 207
    If youve already had your fuel rail replaced because of a leak will you be able to be reimbursed by GM. I just had to do my 95 a few months ago.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...supposedly yes. But call the 800 numbers posted above, and see what they say to do. Or call 800-442-OLDS (if that still works :-(

    --Robert
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I decided to take that sticker off of my back driver's side window. Does anyone know how to get that tape residue off of the window? It has now turned black because of the accumulated dirt.

    I really dont want to use a razor that close to the door. One false slip and . . . . .

    The same is true for harsh solvents.

    Henri
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Goo-Gone
  • webbwebb Member Posts: 2
    I have a 99 aruora and have had this strange problem with the cruise control. It will work for about 100 miles then drop out and will not re-engage. Or if I turn it off and go over 80 (which is easy to do while passing)it will not re-engage. Also the speed ometer is jumpie at 80 it jerks 2-3 mph while maintaining a constant speed. Some times but not always when the cruise drops out the check engine light comes on but resets after the three start reset. I have taken it to the dealer twice and they could not find anything wrong with the cruise control I suspect either a m.a.p. sensor or some type of speed sensor. also it surges while going down hill in cruise sometimes bad enough to cause it to drop out. Any help would be appreciated
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    Anyone know where to order the front strut mounts online? other then vanchevrolet.com as their site is acting up again. Or rockauto's no name brand..

    Also anywhere for reveal moldings?
  • cwiley1cwiley1 Member Posts: 82
    I just took my '97 in to have the fuel rail converted last Tuesday, 6/22. It took them approx. 30-45 minutes. They said it would be several months before they recall the '95 model.
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    The passenger front power window won't roll up, in my 1999 Aurora, has anybody had an issue with this on their Aurora?

    I'm taking it to the dealer Monday so they can take a look at it, for now my window has to stay open or down.

    Man, this is whack.

    Javi
    Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg
  • mrdubyamrdubya Member Posts: 200
    i get the same problem sometimes, where i cant control the front passenger window from my side, but it still works on the passenger side controls , have you tried using the passenger side switch? im sure you probably have

    im not sure why, but it comes and goes, probably a loose wire
  • mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    I had the same problem. I took the door panel off and used a test light to figure out which wire was ground and which was live. I think (it was last year when I was much younger, lol) I ended up GROUNDING the motor to roll up the window because there was always power to the motor but the switch grounds the motor. I think I posted a more complete (accurate?) description at the time. Apparently it's usually that window on the Auroras, Park Avenues and Sevilles and it's usually the main switching terminal block in the front door or the harness, not the motor.

    I'd post moe on prob, but keyboard is acting up again. Time to go to house and swap good keyboard back that my cous. borrowed to finish paper last week.
  • stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    Hey Javi, just a note: Do yourself a favor and make sure to check the wires running into each door. I've had a bit of trouble with windows and speakers in my Aurora and all so far have been from brittle wires breaking from age. It'd be worth a shot to check them out before the dealer tries to hose you on any costly repairs. Good luck!

    -Brian
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    stikking1,

    You know I did not really get a chance to check out the front passenger window completely, the window stoppped working on Saturday 6.26.2004, so I gave the Aurora a rest since I had to work on Sunday, so today Monday morning at 7:00am took it to the dealer, I know they will take care of that since it's covered under my GM Warranty, which covers "Electrical". I went in and they were like "okay we'll take a look".

    I just don't know how long they will take. You all know dealers, some can take care if the problem the same day, some will take up to 3 days or something.

    So I will let all you know the outcome.

    Javi.
  • mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    To expand and emphasize, no matter which window anyone has problems with (no power or power in only one direction) the first place to start is the wiring harness going through the front drivers door to the body.
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    I got my Aurora back from the dealer yesterday ar around noon, window motor burned out, covered under warranty.

    Man, I love that warranty.

    Peace.
    Javi.
  • mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    Just out of curiosity was the motor running slow or buzzing before it went out?
  • watersurgeonwatersurgeon Member Posts: 9
    About two weeks ago I started getting a rattling sound under the car as the engine revs up. Almost sounds like loose sheet metal. I narrowed it down to a sound possibly coming from the tranny, or torque convertor. Jacked the car up and fired it up and had someone raise the RPMS, etc...

    Trany has about 150,000 miles on it. Fluid has not been changed. (Which I am going to do in the next day or so with filter to see if the problem is just bad tranny fluid and to see if something fell out of the tranny)

    For the most part this car still runs strong, has a total of 184,000 miles on it. No problems shifting, engine runs good, etc...

    Any thoughts on this trany rattle sound? before I run it to the dealer.
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Hey Mike,

    The motor was not running slow or buzzing at all, the window just stayed down and would not close/roll up. Usually people get some kind of warning that their window is failing, mine didn't.

    Peace.
    Javi.
  • mike98cmike98c Member Posts: 293
    Are you sure it's not the heat shield rattling? There's a tecnical service bulletin on the problem if thats what it is.
  • beachlover333beachlover333 Member Posts: 6
    The outside temperature reading is going crazy....keeps reading 194 F. I've changed the sensor, and it even reads a few degrees higher...must be some way to reset this thing....any ideas.....It's a 95 classic, and reads the high temp whether engine is cold or hot...
  • watersurgeonwatersurgeon Member Posts: 9
    Mike,

    Changed out the trany fluid and filters today. Had some minor residue on the pan magnet but no major metal shavings etc... for the amount of mileage on the tranny and the fluid, it still looked pretty good. Im sure the viscosity was shot.

    I checked the exhaust heat shield and could not really find anything loose with it.

    When the tranny is cold there is no sound coming out, however give it a couple of minutes of run time and the rattling sound starts up.

    Even in park I get the sound when slowly rev the engine. I wondering if it could be the torque convertor or tranny bands etc...

    Any suggestions or thoughts.
    Patrick
  • watersurgeonwatersurgeon Member Posts: 9
    I just got the recall notice in the mail on my 96' and it has a form with it that you fill out for reimbursement if you paid for it already.
  • watersurgeonwatersurgeon Member Posts: 9
    There was an old post a couple of years ago about disconnecting the battery for 30 min to an hour and this would reset all the computers. Might be worth a try. I know Ive done this with some other issues and it seemed to reset everthing.
  • watersurgeonwatersurgeon Member Posts: 9
    Finger nail polish remover. Just take your wifes. If thats not available get a product called Goof Off, that will take it right off.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    I am getting a lot of knocking when making turns. I think it is the bushings judging from past posts. Can this be done at home?

    Thanks in advance.
    Greg
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Does anyone know where the cycling switch for the a/c is on a 2001 3.5? And, how hard is this to replace? My a/c keeps cycling on and off. I had the freon checked and it is full. Thanks for any help.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    Gisom, my opinion is that the "knocking" from turning is the strut mount bearings. Someone (sorry, I forget who) mentioned that the bearing locks when you turn then, when you go straight it snaps back or "pops" as you hear. If your struts and mounts are original, I would definitely replace them first.

    FYI the bearings are located in the strut mounts and really aren't replaceable by themselves. Just buy a complete mount.
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    Where can I get both PCV elbows? Rock only has a really stupid universal fit one, and that wouldn't work on the elbow into the manifold.

    My second question is what is the thing on top of TB that runs to cruise and somewhere down into the engine? It's a type of special elbow looking thing and is cracked and leaking air like my PCV elbows are doing (that's why this post sounds kind of urgent).
  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Got some info on another board that someone got a gal at the Olds 800# that was now able to get authorization and call the dealer and talk to the service mgr. and get the car fixed with the new stainless rail--for the 95--and was paid for by GM. So it seems that the 95 rail is ready and the actual recall of the 95s should be soon (my 95 was already in the dealer and diagnosed with a bad rail). The part #s are: 12499781 rail kit, and 12499840 seal kit. Other codes of note on invoice: "recall 04014" and V1149.
  • billhbillh Member Posts: 1
    The car had a fire under the drivers seat. damage to the the seat, steering wheel, headliner and smoke to the rest of the interior.
    Car starts fine-the display with the security light and abs lights works, but thats all. I replaced the instrument panel and heater control panel but they still don't work. I have not removed the seat yet, could there be wires under the seat for the dash?
  • buckdogbuckdog Member Posts: 19
    I've noticed for sometime I had one burnt out fog light. But now the little switch that lights up when the fog ligths are on dosn't light up any more. And both fog lights are out. also I got no dash lights, radio still lights up but my center lights for the spedo tach fuel ect. don't light up. I checked the fuses and they seem ok. I'm thinking that with both fog lights out that might be the problem. Any other thoughts?????????
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    'rora in for a oil change Sunday. Now, since yesterday, the car has a vibration (both idling in park and on the road). When you're sitting there in park and rev it, the vibration starts at about 1200 rpm and continues through about 2700 rpm and then goes away and smooths out. But, when driving, it has the vibration all the time, even when coasting. The vibration is not in the steering wheel, just a seat of the pants feel. Any idea what could have happened? They said the tires were all overinflated by 10 psi (40 instead of 30), which means they were balanced at 40, compliments of the people that did the last oil change. It can't be the tires, because it vibrates while sitting in park. Anybody else have this happen??
  • taylorb27614taylorb27614 Member Posts: 15
    98 Aurora with Autobaun .... has intermittent blower ... even turning blower to high it will blow at whatever speed it chooses ... sometimes it will not blow at all. GM manual says it could be the blower control module or the programer .. any experience with this out there?
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    Is the oil level proper? I'd check that since that's all that changed. You might try to note the consistency of it also to ensure it's the right weight (might be hard to do).
  • huskerfan_21huskerfan_21 Member Posts: 27
    I just took my '96 Aurora in for an oil change/coolant flush/AC recharge and the dealer had recall parts on hand and did the recall for me. They replaced the fuel rail with a stainless steel one, took them about 1-2 hours I think. I think I got pushed to the back of the line when they figured out it needed recalling, I took the car in at 7 AM and didnt get it till 6 PM. They didnt replace the fuel return line, however.

    Greg

    '96 Autobahn
  • buckdogbuckdog Member Posts: 19
    Just had this happen to me, started working intermitrntly for a couple of days then just quit working alltogether. I checked everything fuses, blower motor and everything checked ok. What it ended up being was the blower control module $97 at dealer only. When I unpluged one of the two connectors, the one with only one red wire, the pin from the module was burned off and melted permenatly right inside the connector. So I had to cut off the conn. and crimp a hardware style slip on connector in its place. That module must of really got hot at one time to burn the pin right off. The module is just to the left of the blower motor mounted to the side caseing of the HVAC ductwork, two screws hold it on. Its got a rather large heat sink on it that you can't see because it's inside the duct, with that size of heat sink I know there's smoe heat being generated.
      ,good luck Dan
  • taylorb27614taylorb27614 Member Posts: 15
    Dan,
    Thanks for the feedback ... my blower wasn't working at all yesterday so I pulled the control module out to see if there were any burned wires. Negative .. The GM service manual has a troubleshooting flowchart that anyone with a voltmeter can use to trace trace the problem. Bingo it pointed right to the blower control module. I left the module out of its compartment because I didn't have the replacement part yet. The blower started working half way to work this AM ... I burned my hand on that heatsink thing trying to see just how warm it gets when working correctly. Next time you need parts you might want to check out http://www.gmpartsdirect.com/ My total cost with shipping came to $62.16 for the blower control module. PN 52470336 .. These are OEM GM parts.
  • taylorb27614taylorb27614 Member Posts: 15
    The two that control AC function and fan speed ..
    Anybody got the GM part number of these for the 95 through 99 model year?
  • buckdogbuckdog Member Posts: 19
    The blower cont. mod. for the '95 is GM PT#12368388 GMONLINE cost is 101.06 and that is what the dealer said it would be. But when I went to the cashier she said it was $97.00 and I said "I like u too". Don't know why the 2 diff prices but I didn't ask. Why do you have a diff price? Also the new one I got has a better design. Looks to have bigger cooling fins but works just fine.
  • buckdogbuckdog Member Posts: 19
    I took a double look and you are right, a 50% savings @ gm parts direct. I'll deffinatly book mark that sight! THANKS
  • taylorb27614taylorb27614 Member Posts: 15
    Found it ... 16165959 KNOB,HTR

    can be had from gmpartsdirect.com for $7.51 ea plus S/H
Sign In or Register to comment.