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Comments
John
The left side of the pic will be the top. Its under 100 bux depending on which one you need.
If it's cranking - yep, this is probably your FPR (not fuel pump), located between the fuel rails and the injectors.
If it's not cranking, and the security light is on, or there's a "clean key" message on the Driver Info Center, you've got problems with your ignition switch. You can shoot some WD-40 in there and hope that it cleans the contacts (also clean the key, or try your second key, if you have one).
Hope this helps,
--Robert
To make a long story short, the problem turned out to be a dirty throttle body which I had cleaned at the cadillac dealership in OK City. They put it on some kind of machine that cleaned the throttle body and throttle plate and also the fuel injectors at the same time. On my return trip, thankfully the problem was gone and the car behaved perfectly. Because the symptoms are very intermittent and not very noticable, I wonder how many others may have this problem and perhaps not recognize it? The cost from the dealer was $130 which I thought was quite reasonable.
http://www.gmprotectionplan.com/
Let me know what you think.
Javs.
paul
John
Les
paul
Still haven't had time to install it, but will soon...
--Robert
Javs.
Or, could this be suspension related?
Thanks for any advice,
John
paul
Dr. Turbo-you can go to Auto Zone, they will clear it for you.
John
Just want to let everyone know that it is not that bad to do it yourself. Thank you.
paul
paul
I took it to another mechanic, who wiped off the box and told me to come back in 1k miles. Did so, no signs of leakage. So I haven't done anything. (Same dealer also tried to say I needed a new wheel bearing, since the front tire flexed when up on a lift. Second mechanic tightened the loose bolt, problem solved, $300 bill to the warranty company avoided).
I've stopped using that dealership (now just a GMC one with the death of Olds) for service work...
--Robert
The Classic (95-99) requires premium fuel. The 2001-2003 don't require it, but perform best with it (able to retard timing if there's knock) - same with my GTO.
I'd strongly, strongly encourage it. Around here, most of the major "chain" gas stations (BP/Amoco, Mobil) charge 10c/gal between grades (regular, mid-grate + 10c, premium + 20c). I tend to frequent those stations (Citgo, Clark) which only charge 7c or less between grades.
At 15 cents per gallon difference, figuring a 12 gallon fill-up, it's costing you $1.80 more per fill. If you fill up once a week like I do, that's under $100 per year. Is it worth messing up your engine to save that little? You'd be best suited to make sure your fuel filter and PCV valve are changed regularly, your injectors are cleaned, and check your tire pressure at each fill-up. Those things will help keep your mileage up (along with your driving/braking habits), which will save you more money than the difference you are paying for premium...
Just my 15 cents,
--Robert
John
I have the door panel off. Access is extremely limited. I'm trying to follow the service manual directions, which tell me to remove the lock rod from the latch. I cannot figure out how to do that. Does anyone know?
Les
Where can I read about the TSB?
What parts are required and is it an easy fix? Thanks for the help.
paul
I did not want to mess around with it, so I went with my warranty for that and they covered it.
Thank godness for the Warranty, that job is like trouble.
Peace.
2.I took my 2003 4.0L V8 in for a slow coolant loss. The dealership found a leaking gasket at the water pump. They replaced the whole water pump assembly under the new car warranty (21k miles), again for $0. I was surprised at how quickly they accomplished the repair (Saturday morning drop off, Saturday afternoon pick up.) When I asked if they actually stocked Aurora water pumps, the service writer told me that the Cadillac 4.6L Northstar has the same pump, which they do stock, and that was how they could do the repair so quickly.
3. Two good experiences at one dealership! I'm happy. I recommend Hendrick's Cadillac, Pontiac, GMC in Raleigh, NC.
Ken
Thanks,
John
If doing-it-yourself doesn't do the job, then consider taking it to a mechanic...
--Robert
Greg
paul
The warning chime will ding for no apparent reason with no warning lites.
Does this sound like the control module? Where is it located and what does it take to install?
paul
Any ideas of what might be causing the light?
Thanks
Greg
'96 Aurora
Make : OLDSMOBILE Model : AURORA Year : 1998
Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
Service Bulletin Num : 990232008A Date of Bulletin: MAY 24, 2001
NHTSA Item Number: 619379
Component: STEERING
Summary:
SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT ABOUT A STEERING SHUDDER DURING SLOW SPEED TURNING / PARKING MANEUVERS. *TT
--Robert
According to information I have seen, '96 and later Auroras have battery run-down protection feature which should have turned off those lights after 5 to 10 minutes.
Les
After leaving the car off for 2 hours, I got back in to go to work and the light didnt stay on. So, that was great!
Ya, usually it does turn off after 10 minutes, but they were still on after about 30 minutes which was wierd. I think I'll just stick with the automatic lights from now on.
Has anyone seen an improvement with a K&N filter?
Thanks
Greg
PS: Blasted a V8 Jeep G.C. Limited tonight, felt good, though it wasnt much of a challenge.
Of course if I want balls-to-the-wall acceleration, I drive the GTO :-)
--Robert
I know this much, it's not the brakes, had them done about the same time I started hearing this noise.
It's not my custom wheels, because I heard the same noise with my OEM wheels.
My guess is that it could be the inner hub bearings, but I don't know how often do this things start to act up, or when is time to change them.
I'm at 62,000 miles, so it makes sence for me to look into the inner bearings in that wheel.
What do you guys think, or has anybody experience this in the past or dealt with it.
Also a final question, the inner bearings wouldn't be covered under warranty right?.
Javi.
John
Thanks,
Javs.
Seems like every 6 months or so one of my TC sensors that are attached on the wheel bearings goes bad and I have to replace the entire wheel bearing of course because the sensors arent seperate. The bearings are still good , but just for the sensor the whole unit needs to be replaced.
Ive decided to pull the light from behind the instrument panel the says " traction off" and just forget about the traction control all together. I never need it anyway and I usually turn it off when it does work. I can live without it and save money buying needless sets of wheel bearings.
Anyone know which fuse is best to pull ?