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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Do they have a website??

    John
  • northstar98northstar98 Member Posts: 8
    I hope this is the problem cause I have to hold the key for a pretty good amount of time but it does start little quicker in the morning but I still have to hold it until turns over. I guess it cause it sits overnight.When you say fuel pressure regulator do you mean fuel pump?
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    The FPR is under the engine cover in the engine bay. The above cylinder 7 on the top of the engine. It looks like this http://www.smpcorp.com/mycgi/ibg.asp?parts=PR223

    The left side of the pic will be the top. Its under 100 bux depending on which one you need.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    When you are holding the key, is the car cranking, or just silent?

    If it's cranking - yep, this is probably your FPR (not fuel pump), located between the fuel rails and the injectors.

    If it's not cranking, and the security light is on, or there's a "clean key" message on the Driver Info Center, you've got problems with your ignition switch. You can shoot some WD-40 in there and hope that it cleans the contacts (also clean the key, or try your second key, if you have one).

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • jlhartnettjlhartnett Member Posts: 12
    A couple of weeks ago I made a trip from North Carolina to Oklahoma. It is about 1325 miles one way. I noticed that after driving at about 70 mph for most of the first day, that my 95 classic with 60K miles on it started to surge and rpms would drop from about 2500 to 2200 and then go back again. I also found that when I slowed down, the engine wanted to idle very high and it was difficult to stop. No other indications from the SES or DIC were present.

    To make a long story short, the problem turned out to be a dirty throttle body which I had cleaned at the cadillac dealership in OK City. They put it on some kind of machine that cleaned the throttle body and throttle plate and also the fuel injectors at the same time. On my return trip, thankfully the problem was gone and the car behaved perfectly. Because the symptoms are very intermittent and not very noticable, I wonder how many others may have this problem and perhaps not recognize it? The cost from the dealer was $130 which I thought was quite reasonable.
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Hey after a couple of clicks I found their website,

    http://www.gmprotectionplan.com/

    Let me know what you think.

    Javs.
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    The antenna is stuck in the up position on my 1996 aurora. Is there a repair kit for these and is it easy to remove and repair? What is the P/N?

    paul
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    you're going to this this is crazy, but check it out. Since I bought this 97, when I first start the car in the morning, the accelerator feels like it's stuck. Now, starting this morning, when driving from 60 to 75 mph, there is a really rough feeling, almost a grinding feeling in the accelerator. I can feel it in my foot. Could something be binding up, or does the accelerator cable need lubed, or, is it something else?? Anybody else have this happen??

    John
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I have experienced "stuck" but not "grinding." For quite awhile I noticed that the accelerator of my '97 would stick and be hard to move off idle. It would break free, then be OK. I assumed the problem was in the linkage and tried using spray lubricant on the moving parts I could access -- all to no avail. When I installed my RSM 80mm throttle body, I was surprised to find that the cause of the sticking was in the original throttle body itself. The gunk built up downstream of the throttle plate actually glued it in place. Since I did not experience your grinding problem, this may not apply to your situation.

    Les
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Hey folks, just went to the dealer to see about a repair kit and they said there isn't one, I have to buy a universal replacement. What has anyone else done about fixing their power antenna? I can't be the only one this has happened to. Thanks

    paul
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Bought one from a junkyard off eBay for $30.

    Still haven't had time to install it, but will soon...

    --Robert
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    I got mine covered under my GMPP Warranty, the only difference is that I went to a Cadillac dealer, so they replaced my antenna with a chrome tip on it, instead of the black one that my original had, which I don't mind at all, my guess is that they probably found the part that fitted on a Caddy STS onto my Aurora.

    Javs.
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    I know there is a an ISS lube kit for the next generation Auroras, but my 97 now groans and shudders on low speed turns. Is there also a kit for this year, or do they just replace the shaft?
    Or, could this be suspension related?

    Thanks for any advice,

    John
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    The only recurring steering issue on Classics is a shudder (wheel shakes back and forth somewhat) on very low speed turns. The solution to this problem is a slightly longer power steering hose (TSB on this one). If this isn't it, I'd suspect the steering rack, which is a pretty expensive repair...
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    What does it take to clear the "service engine" lite"? I fixed the problem now I need to clear the lite. Thank you.

    paul
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Hammen, hopefully the longer hose is it. How expensive is the steering rack? I haven't bought extended warranty yet.

    Dr. Turbo-you can go to Auto Zone, they will clear it for you.

    John
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Well thanks to all that responded. Replaced them yesterday, it went well but it was messy. I sure did save allot of money by doing it myself. Now I just have to clear the engine lite.
    Just want to let everyone know that it is not that bad to do it yourself. Thank you.

    paul
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    The previous owner did not use premium fuel so I was wondering what all the other owners use? I just got this car and realized it takes high test fuel. Is it really needed, with the price of gas and all?

    paul
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    If you don't have a code reader, disconnect the negative battery terminal for 30 minutes and that will do the trick.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    My Olds dealer tried to tell me my steering rack was leaking - looking at around a $1k repair.

    I took it to another mechanic, who wiped off the box and told me to come back in 1k miles. Did so, no signs of leakage. So I haven't done anything. (Same dealer also tried to say I needed a new wheel bearing, since the front tire flexed when up on a lift. Second mechanic tightened the loose bolt, problem solved, $300 bill to the warranty company avoided).

    I've stopped using that dealership (now just a GMC one with the death of Olds) for service work...

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I only use premium in my Aurora and in my GTO.

    The Classic (95-99) requires premium fuel. The 2001-2003 don't require it, but perform best with it (able to retard timing if there's knock) - same with my GTO.

    I'd strongly, strongly encourage it. Around here, most of the major "chain" gas stations (BP/Amoco, Mobil) charge 10c/gal between grades (regular, mid-grate + 10c, premium + 20c). I tend to frequent those stations (Citgo, Clark) which only charge 7c or less between grades.

    At 15 cents per gallon difference, figuring a 12 gallon fill-up, it's costing you $1.80 more per fill. If you fill up once a week like I do, that's under $100 per year. Is it worth messing up your engine to save that little? You'd be best suited to make sure your fuel filter and PCV valve are changed regularly, your injectors are cleaned, and check your tire pressure at each fill-up. Those things will help keep your mileage up (along with your driving/braking habits), which will save you more money than the difference you are paying for premium...

    Just my 15 cents,

    --Robert
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I always use high test. You can get away with "silver" but that is as low as I would go. However, you will notice a slight drop off in performance. I can live with the car's performance using mid-grade. On regular gas, why have an aROARa when a Taurus will do?
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Aurora know where the drain tubes are for the sunroof? It's raining like he#$ here in Cincinnati today and my wife has water leaking in by the front pillars, around the homelink control, and by the rear courtesy lights above the doors. Hers is a 2001. Or, maybe it's something totally different. Help!!!

    John
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Has anyone replaced their driver door outside handle? Mine broke and I cannot open the door from outside. I have the replacement part (parts guy said it is a common problem).

    I have the door panel off. Access is extremely limited. I'm trying to follow the service manual directions, which tell me to remove the lock rod from the latch. I cannot figure out how to do that. Does anyone know?

    Les
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    I'm new to my '96 and I noticed when turning around in the street I get a shudder and low groan while turning. At first I thought it was a tire rubbing until I read this post, interesting.
    Where can I read about the TSB?
    What parts are required and is it an easy fix? Thanks for the help.

    paul
  • ramouramou Member Posts: 84
    My 95 temp gauge started climbing up very very slowly on the interstate yesterday doing about 85-90MPH for about 30 minutes, it crossed over slightly past the last notch before the red, but I didn't let it get to the red as I was due to get off the exit. Once I got off and drove normal, it came back down. My fans were on and there was no leak and my anti-freeze reservoir was full. The temp gauge never went over 220 on the interstate no matter what time of the year it was here in Florida. Could this be a dirty radiator problem..or could it be a thermostat problem. A mechanic told me that if it's getting hot on the highway then it's the radiator, because in slow traffic the thermostat and the fans kick in. Has anyone experienced this and if so how much did it run. The service engine soon light also has been coming on and off for the past 2 weeks but not consistent, but the car still drives the same, I guess I'll have it scanned maybe it's a related issue. Sometimes it doesn't come on at all in an entire drive.
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    As a matter of fact I just got mine replaced a few weeks ago at the dealer under my Warranty, they had to replace the whole thing and repaint the outside handle and housing, since they used a new one.

    I did not want to mess around with it, so I went with my warranty for that and they covered it.

    Thank godness for the Warranty, that job is like trouble.

    Peace.
  • rocket3_50rocket3_50 Member Posts: 42
    1. I took in my 2001 3.5L V6 for a sort of roaring or grinding noise coming from somewhere in the front of the car last Saturday afternoon. The dealer called Monday to report that it was fixed. He installed a "Hub kit" on the left front wheel. If I understand correctly, the cause was a wheel bearing that can wear out sometime between 60k and 100k miles. Mine is at 75k miles. The repair was covered by the powertrain warranty, and instead of ~$500 the cost was $0.

    2.I took my 2003 4.0L V8 in for a slow coolant loss. The dealership found a leaking gasket at the water pump. They replaced the whole water pump assembly under the new car warranty (21k miles), again for $0. I was surprised at how quickly they accomplished the repair (Saturday morning drop off, Saturday afternoon pick up.) When I asked if they actually stocked Aurora water pumps, the service writer told me that the Cadillac 4.6L Northstar has the same pump, which they do stock, and that was how they could do the repair so quickly.

    3. Two good experiences at one dealership! I'm happy. I recommend Hendrick's Cadillac, Pontiac, GMC in Raleigh, NC.

    Ken
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    That's why I get my warranty work done at Cadillac Dealers, they seem to have the parts to almost all Aurora's.
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    anyone know a ballpark figure on a throttle body cleaning? My accelerator is sticking and now the car is idling at 1000 rpm, and it used to idle at 5-600. This is when the car is not in gear.

    Thanks,

    John
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Get a spray can of Throttle Body Cleaner (not carb cleaner) from AutoZone or similar. Remove the airbox and the hose going to the throttle body (make sure the MAF is out). Shoot throttle body cleaner at the throttle body, Use an old toothrbrush or similar to loosen the crud, and use a rag to wipe it up. Be sure to rotate the plate and clean the backside as well (the brush would come in handy here).

    If doing-it-yourself doesn't do the job, then consider taking it to a mechanic...

    --Robert
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    I was suppose to get new stainless steel fuel rail and replace fuel line according to my notice, but when I took it to the GM dealer all they did was inspect it and said everything was fine. I am going to call GM headquarters and find out why it was not automatically replaced. Will let you know what happens.

    Greg
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    What is the TSB # on this? I would like to get more information on the repair and parts needed. Thanks

    paul
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    I understand there was a recall for this. Apparently the recall was done to replace a control module. I think I am having the same problem but since I did not own the car then I am not exactly sure it is the same.
    The warning chime will ding for no apparent reason with no warning lites.
    Does this sound like the control module? Where is it located and what does it take to install?

    paul
  • huskerfan_21huskerfan_21 Member Posts: 27
    My service engine light just came on today after I had left the lights/fog lights on for about an hour. I got back in the car, started it up and the Volts were about 13.0 (instead of 14.9). It started hesitantly for a split second then all has been fine and the battery charged back up. I checked under the hood and on all the monitored systems, and everything appears fine. Should I just disconnect the battery for a half hour like was suggessted, or take the car in and see if something really is wrong? It isnt due for a service for 1000 miles or so, though it just kicked over to 111200 miles.

    Any ideas of what might be causing the light?

    Thanks

    Greg

    '96 Aurora
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    http://www.nhtsa.gov is your friend.

    Make : OLDSMOBILE Model : AURORA Year : 1998
    Manufacturer : GENERAL MOTORS CORP.
    Service Bulletin Num : 990232008A Date of Bulletin: MAY 24, 2001
    NHTSA Item Number: 619379
    Component: STEERING
    Summary:
      SOME CUSTOMERS MAY COMMENT ABOUT A STEERING SHUDDER DURING SLOW SPEED TURNING / PARKING MANEUVERS. *TT
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    I'd make sure your gas cap was tight, then disconnect the negative terminal of the battery for 30 minutes, driving the car for awhile after reconnecting it. If the light doesn't come on again, I wouldn't worry about it...

    --Robert
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Greg,

    According to information I have seen, '96 and later Auroras have battery run-down protection feature which should have turned off those lights after 5 to 10 minutes.

    Les
  • huskerfan_21huskerfan_21 Member Posts: 27
    Les-

    After leaving the car off for 2 hours, I got back in to go to work and the light didnt stay on. So, that was great!

    Ya, usually it does turn off after 10 minutes, but they were still on after about 30 minutes which was wierd. I think I'll just stick with the automatic lights from now on.

    Has anyone seen an improvement with a K&N filter?

    Thanks

    Greg

    PS: Blasted a V8 Jeep G.C. Limited tonight, felt good, though it wasnt much of a challenge.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    K&N: yes, definitely, but mod your airbox (see garnes' post on CaddyInfo - basically, remove the side baffle chamber (2" PVC pipe cap from Menards) and bottom chamber, and the yellow insert from the lid/top of the airbox. I did this before putting the K&N in - intake sound much louder, "seat-of-the-pants" dyno says she pulls much stronger off the line.

    Of course if I want balls-to-the-wall acceleration, I drive the GTO :-)

    --Robert
  • bryanbryan Member Posts: 198
    I noticed yesterday when I opened the trunk after a rainstorm that I had a few drips of water coming out from under the left side of the inside gray colored trunk cover (make sense?). Not much, but I stuck my finger in between the inside metal of the trunk and the gray covering, and it was moist. Any idea?
  • gudgegudge Member Posts: 9
    I own a 1997 Aurora. A few weeks ago my tachometer began bouncing (just the needle). The engine runs fine. I noticed that the tachometer needle quits bouncing around when voltage on the DIC is above 14.5 volts. My car's voltage fluctuates between 12.8 (on a humid day) & 14.0 volts on a dry day. When the voltage drops below 13 volts the speedometer & temperature needles begin bouncing around as well. Is there a component in the car that is supposed to keep the cars voltage constant? Everything works great when 14.5 or more volts is available.Please let me know.
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    I have been hearing this clicking noise coming from my front right wheel.

    I know this much, it's not the brakes, had them done about the same time I started hearing this noise.

    It's not my custom wheels, because I heard the same noise with my OEM wheels.

    My guess is that it could be the inner hub bearings, but I don't know how often do this things start to act up, or when is time to change them.

    I'm at 62,000 miles, so it makes sence for me to look into the inner bearings in that wheel.

    What do you guys think, or has anybody experience this in the past or dealt with it.

    Also a final question, the inner bearings wouldn't be covered under warranty right?.

    Javi.
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    There is a regulator in the alternator that prevents the voltage from getting too high. If it is too low, it's because the alternator isn't making enough voltage or something is sucking it all up. You can check for bad grounds, corroded battery cables, a dead battery and such, and then you may just have to get the alternator checked or replaced.
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    in today for what I thought was the ISS; it was making the clunking sound. Turned out to be the right front tie rod. Total cost with alignment-182.20. Lesson-don't assume it's the ISS, which is really not a safety issue, which a broken tie rod is. Just FYI.

    John
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    Clicking in a FWD usually means a bad CV joint. I see no reason for a bearing to click. The bad bearing on mine hums at a certain speed (35 and 50).
  • gudgegudge Member Posts: 9
    Thanks for the information on the regulator inside of the alternator. My alternator is still under warranty for the next 1000 miles. I am going to have it checked out.
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    With a bad CV joint, you would hear it when turning, I don't hear the clicking noise when I turn, only when I come at a stop, like at a stop light. Like you said the bearings would do a humming noise, then it might be something else, but I will have the CV checked to make sure it's not that either way.

    Thanks,
    Javs.
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Member Posts: 207
    Anyone know which fuse if pulled will totally shut down the Traction Control and not effect anything else ?

    Seems like every 6 months or so one of my TC sensors that are attached on the wheel bearings goes bad and I have to replace the entire wheel bearing of course because the sensors arent seperate. The bearings are still good , but just for the sensor the whole unit needs to be replaced.

    Ive decided to pull the light from behind the instrument panel the says " traction off" and just forget about the traction control all together. I never need it anyway and I usually turn it off when it does work. I can live without it and save money buying needless sets of wheel bearings.

    Anyone know which fuse is best to pull ?
  • ramouramou Member Posts: 84
    If I just take my 95 Aurora in a Tire Kingdom or a Firestone to install rear shocks, would they do a good job and know what to install or do I need to bring anything special to their attention since that car has the self leveling shocks..?
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