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There are quite a few posts on what kind to buy (AC Delco original equip. is best), what sites you can purchase them online, and the process to take the old ones off and swap on the new ones. The first shock took me about 45 min, the second was only about 30 min after figuring the first out.
My advice: Do it yourself in your garage or even on the driveway.
Greg
'96 Aurora
John
My Aurora front cupholders won't close and I'm hopimg there covered under my warranty, also with the shifter light, you guys think it might be covered under the warranty, my cable snapped off or broke loose right at the base of the bulb housing.
Thanks
Javs.
In addition to the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses, you should check the two small hoses connected to the throttle body. Good luck.
Les
John
paul
paul
Henri
I guess you take a chance and I was lucky.
Thanks for the responses on the wheel covers, though.
paul
Thanks!
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paul
What could this be telling me? I was still thinking it might be the "Malfunction alarm, lighting and lock module" but I am not sure. How can I tell? Thanks for anyones help.
Henri
paul
I also unplugged mine temporarily but it knocked out the garage door opener.
paul
Did you check the brake fluid???
John
--Robert
There sure isn't much info on this issue.
paul
I was quoted $210 for this at Olds. They said the "book time" for labor is 2-2 1/2 hours. I recall seeing someone on here saying it takes about 15-20 minutes? How easy is this thing to do? Isn't it right under the engine cover?
John
Les
It is an incredibly easy DIY job. Just make sure you get the right part number for your year car. You have to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the plastic engine cover on, removing the engine cover. You then look for the FPR (looks like a little oil can - follow the fuel lines/rail). There's a clip on it you have to loosen, then the FPR untwists. You must be careful of the O-rings on it- there's a very small one on the bottom that must come out (may stick to the FPR, or stick in the hole).
I had some problems with my replacement - turned out the wrong O-ring (one too big) was on the end, and the big one didn't seal/tore when the FPR was screwed back in.
It really is a 15 minute job. I seem to remember paying $38 for my FPR. You have a '97? Let me call my GM parts source to get the number and what my price would be. Yours should be close to that (otherwise look at RockAuto, VanChevrolet, GMPartsDirect, GMPartsOutlet, et. al.)
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Thanks for any help,
John
John
--Robert
Les
I cannot find anything about this problem, please help.
1996 aurora
Bbob over at caddyinfo.com answered this for me before. Sorry I cant remmeber WHY he said it was ok just that he said it isnt a problem.
sephroth -
I still have the exact same problem as you, even down to the pronounced hesitation at 1500 rpms in 4th. My dealer can't find a solution, but they can sure see the errors on the read-out. I even told them about the type of work you have had done. I have replaced plugs, problem reoccurs within a day or two. Replaced wires, problem reoccurred within a day. Have never had computer indicator LED come on at all.
Codes show misfire in Cylinder #3, replaced that plug again due to carbon tracing, problem has returned.
The funny thing is all of the attempts seem to work for a little while then something causes carbon traces on a particular plug or wires to quickly build-up, then eventually cause the hesitation/misfire again.
The dealer is ruling out coils/control module – they check out fine. They mentioned that my K&N air filter (oil based) may have gummed-up the sensor inside the mass airflow, but I have had that filter for a couple of years. If that was the problem then you would think that a problem like that would be there all the time – it wouldn’t temporarily disappear after the plugs/wires are changed. They did mention possible fuel injectors, but same as mass air flow sensor – problem would be there all of the time regardless of new plugs/wires.
Any way, not sure what to do and don’t want dealer to perform unnecessary work $$. Hopefully you have had some luck since your last post.
Would a leaky/bad fuel injector cause gradual degradation of the plug / wire?
Thx.
Sorry about the following questions, but I could probably pull this off with some guidance.
Is this relatively easy, or should I leave this to the experts?
Do you typically replace one, or all 8?
Are there adjustments to make pre and post install?
The AC Delco site has the following parts listed that are probably needed.
217-450 SEAL KIT,F/INJR(O RING)
217-308 INJECTOR KIT,SEQ M/PORT FUEL
Thanks for any help..
Greg
Regarding code scanners: I am very pleased with the AutoXray EZLink scanner I purchased for my '97 about 1.5 years ago. List is $300; search the internet for discounts. I also bought the software and cable to allow uploading data to my PC and downloading software updates from the AutoXray website. This is a stand-alone unit. It displays trouble and pending codes, freeze-frame data (parameters current at time code was set), real-time operational data (temperatures, air-flow, throttle position, etc.), and lets you clear codes and turn off the SES light. Of course, it will come back on after awhile if the problem is still present. Other companies sell software and cable that attach to your laptop or palm; less money, but I did not want to have to lug around a laptop and I don't have a PDA.
Now the problem for you (someone correct me if my memory is faulty here): early '95s are OBD-I with an OBD-II connector. Later '95s are OBD-II. I do not know if AutoXray can handle the OBD-I; they list some special cables on their website. If you are interested, I suggest you call technical support. I have gotten good service the few times I called.
http://home.achilles.net/~howardm/aurora/underhood.php
Paul
It sounds like the FPR is leaking or an injector is not sealing/dripping. If the FPR checks OK I would loosen the fuel rail so that you can lift the injectors up out of the sockets in the intake manifold and watch them while you turn on the key without cranking to energize the fuel pump/pressurize the fuel system. If an injector is leaking or dripping you should be able to see it.
Also might change coil packs around and see if problems moves from #3 cylinder.
Good Luck,
Steve
What could be causing this and how do I get to the sender? Thanks