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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • huskerfan_21huskerfan_21 Member Posts: 27
    Rear shocks are quite easy to replace and only takes a few hours if you have the time.
    There are quite a few posts on what kind to buy (AC Delco original equip. is best), what sites you can purchase them online, and the process to take the old ones off and swap on the new ones. The first shock took me about 45 min, the second was only about 30 min after figuring the first out.

    My advice: Do it yourself in your garage or even on the driveway.

    Greg
    '96 Aurora
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    When I pull my car in the garage for the night, I can "smell" a coolant smell. Engine runs normal temperature, coolant level ok, no leaks under car or around water pump, new radiator put in upon purchase (2000 miles ago). Is this normal on the V8? My 01 3.5 doesn't do this.

    John
  • javidoggjavidogg Member Posts: 366
    Anyone know if the cupholders in the front are covered under warranty, or are there any recalls on that?

    My Aurora front cupholders won't close and I'm hopimg there covered under my warranty, also with the shifter light, you guys think it might be covered under the warranty, my cable snapped off or broke loose right at the base of the bulb housing.

    Thanks
    Javs.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    If you smell coolant, you have a leak somewhere. My '97 had a leak in one of the radiator end tanks that was small enough that I never saw any liquid under the car. I found and repaired the leak after removing the top support bar. I'm not saying you have a leak in your new radiator, just that leaks can be small and hard to find. But the nose knows -- that smell is distinctive.

    In addition to the upper and lower radiator hoses and heater hoses, you should check the two small hoses connected to the throttle body. Good luck.

    Les
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Does anyone know how hard it is to clean out the drain tubes for the sunroof on a 01?

    John
  • gudgegudge Member Posts: 9
    I took my 97 into the local Cadillac dealership to have the alternator checked out (original message #2254). They said the alternator checked out fine. Based on driving another persons 98 model I know that the voltage is supposed to remain at around 14.3 to 14.8 volts. The guys at Cadillac were no help at all. I bought the car used for $6200 so it is not that big of a deal. It is frustrating to know that cars are so complex these days that even the mechanics cant diagnose what is wrong with them.
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    There was a TSB written about this for 1996 Model yrs. This repair was made at 6000 miles by another owner. The car has 129,000 and every so often the warning chime will go off for no apparent reason. Could this be happening again? What are the chances of the control module going bad again? Should GM cover the repair or even parts price? Thanks for your input.

    paul
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    I lost an original silver center cover the other day. Noticed on Ebay someone was selling replicas for 15.00. Are these any good? How well do they really match the originals?

    paul
  • northstar98northstar98 Member Posts: 8
    Does anyone no where I can get a used chrome rim for my 98 aurora. My original is cracked it can't be welded. I know of ebay.Does anyone know of any sites that may have it cheap too?
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...http://www.car-part.com
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I brought four fo the aftermarket wheel covers from an ebay seller. I am not happy with them. I have not put them on the car and they remain in the box that they came in. My issue is that the aftermarkets are slightly off center. therefore it never really fits snug and in alignment when put on the car. I can send you one if you want to see for yourself.

    Henri
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Member Posts: 207
    I second Henris opinion on the aftermarket center covers. I bought a set of four to go with some factory chrome wheels I bought and they were terrible. I coudlnt even get them to fit on the rim without cracking them in half. After I cracked two of them I just gave up and got OEM's from a GM wholesaler for like $25 a piece. It was worth it.
  • dred98dred98 Member Posts: 16
    I got 2 silver centre covers for my 98 from eBay and the only difference - except for the price - is that the aftermarket ones say made in China and the originals say GM. They fit perfectly and look better than the originals.
    I guess you take a chance and I was lucky.
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Anyone got an answer on this warning chime issue?

    Thanks for the responses on the wheel covers, though.

    paul
  • ramouramou Member Posts: 84
    Well I recently got a rod out of my radiator along with a a complete system and block flush and new thermostat on my 95 Aurora with 106K miles($275), the temp was going up on the interstate and almost to the red, they did a flow and circulation/capacity test on the radiator and determined that it was dirty and clogged up, let me tell u what a difference in the temp now, I test drove it after the rod out and it never went over 200 degrees on the interstate at 90 mph for an hour, and it runs even cooler in town in the Florida heat, I highly recommend Aurora owners to get the radiator roded out if the temp is getting higher and might as well change the thermostat while they're in there,especially with high mileage and I even flushed the system once a year before summer time, lets not also forget that the transmission is cooled via the radiator, so if the radiator is not cooling, then the tranny is getting hot, I will change the tranny fluid next as it's not red like it used to be, I also replaced the rear shocks with Monroe air and the car is back to normal, I just have to take it in for the recall and I hope that oil leak doesn't get any worse..can anyone tell me what's the worse oil leak they've seen on that car, I think I'm gona have to live with the leak and just add oil, I'm know that it's not a cheap job, I just hope I never smell that burnt oil over the hot exhaust smell with the smoke, I can deal with a piece of carpet under in the engine on the garage floor.
  • Kirstie_HKirstie_H Administrator Posts: 11,148
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    Thanks!

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  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Hey folks, I have a 96 aurora and the interior warning chimes are going off everytime I drive the car. Is there a way to disable this or what does it take to fix it? There are no warning lites on, I just listen to the dinger chirping away. Thanks for the help.

    paul
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Does it say anything on your Driver Info Center? If you step through the settings there, anything look out of the ordinary? Is it an intermittent ding or a continual ding?
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Nothing out of the ordinary on the driver info center. The ding is continual but once in a while it will stop for a couple seconds or the beat would change (if you know what I mean). There might be longer pauses in between each ding.
    What could this be telling me? I was still thinking it might be the "Malfunction alarm, lighting and lock module" but I am not sure. How can I tell? Thanks for anyones help.
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    When my Classic does the constant chiming it means that the brake fluid is low. That chiming is very very very annoying. You can't even turn up the radio to drown it out.

    Henri
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Henri, would that have showed up on the dash anywhere as a warning indicator? Mine does not show any type of warnings. Thanks

    paul
  • stickking1stickking1 Member Posts: 247
    After I replaced the master cylinder on my 95 last year, the alarm came on a refused to stop. I just unplugged the sensor. I lived without one on my previous car and I couldn't figure out why the repair tripped the alarm, and how to shut it off.
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    I am going to try a new module, 35.00 +tax, not too bad, But if it doesn't work, can I get a wiring diagram for this circuit off the net anywhere?
    I also unplugged mine temporarily but it knocked out the garage door opener.

    paul
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    My 95 says low break fluid on the DIC.
    Did you check the brake fluid???
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    my 97 has been cranking a long time before it starts, moreso when sitting overnight or for extended periods of time. It use to start just about as soon as I turned the key. It's running smooth; what would you guys check first? Could this be the FPR?. Car has 77,000 miles, just bought it in September, have already had throttle body and fuel injectors cleaned. And sometimes, but not everytime, when it does start it sputters a little bit.

    John
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Yep, sounds like the right symptoms and mileage for the FPR. That's where I would start...

    --Robert
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Yes, I did check my brake fluid and it is full. What other items get monitored by this circuit, ones that would set off the chime?
    There sure isn't much info on this issue.

    paul
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Robert,
    I was quoted $210 for this at Olds. They said the "book time" for labor is 2-2 1/2 hours. I recall seeing someone on here saying it takes about 15-20 minutes? How easy is this thing to do? Isn't it right under the engine cover?

    John
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    2.5 hours??! What a rip-off. 15 minutes max for an amateur; I have done it. An ACDelco FPR can be bought for $50 to $55.

    Les
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    $210? Heck, for that money, I'd almost drive to where you are to do the install :-)

    It is an incredibly easy DIY job. Just make sure you get the right part number for your year car. You have to loosen the 4 bolts that hold the plastic engine cover on, removing the engine cover. You then look for the FPR (looks like a little oil can - follow the fuel lines/rail). There's a clip on it you have to loosen, then the FPR untwists. You must be careful of the O-rings on it- there's a very small one on the bottom that must come out (may stick to the FPR, or stick in the hole).

    I had some problems with my replacement - turned out the wrong O-ring (one too big) was on the end, and the big one didn't seal/tore when the FPR was screwed back in.

    It really is a 15 minute job. I seem to remember paying $38 for my FPR. You have a '97? Let me call my GM parts source to get the number and what my price would be. Yours should be close to that (otherwise look at RockAuto, VanChevrolet, GMPartsDirect, GMPartsOutlet, et. al.)

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    Took a grand total of 16 minutes! Part cost me $42.96 through work. Now, I pulled the plug wires and the #8 cylinder has what looks to be oil around the spark plug, and it was slightly pooled at the bottom. How worried should I be about this??

    Thanks for any help,

    John
  • rjs200240rjs200240 Member Posts: 1,277
    If it's on the plug wire, it's not from inside the engine. Is that one perchance the one near the oil filler? I'd bet it just spilled there. :)
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    It's the plug on the opposite end from the oil fill opening. It wasn't a lot of oil, just a little pooling of it in the bottom of the cylinder (#8). The plugs and wires look to be original equipment (78000 miles), so those will be changed soon. I took a swab and cleaned the oil out of there and will keep watch on how quick it returns.

    John
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    ...my '98 Aurora had some oil pooled at the bottom of the spark plugs in cylinders 1 and 6. This is back last March at 78k or so miles, when we did my tune-up. My mechanic buddy said not to worry, so I haven't (89k miles now).

    --Robert
  • 95mushroom95mushroom Member Posts: 230
    mine has the oil in the plug holes too.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Mine too, but just cylinder 3.

    Les
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    What can I do to check what is causing this? The chime is erratic but mostly constant. Is there certain malfunctions that cause different chime sequences?
    I cannot find anything about this problem, please help.

    1996 aurora
  • kayaman420kayaman420 Member Posts: 207
    This is normal. As long as the oil isnt on the electrode side of the plug it is ok.

    Bbob over at caddyinfo.com answered this for me before. Sorry I cant remmeber WHY he said it was ok just that he said it isnt a problem.
  • ramouramou Member Posts: 84
    Greg, I took my 95 Aurora in today for the fuel rail recall, but I think all they did was replce the fuel line to the tank with the fuel filter but not the fuel rail. It's the same rail that I had on before I took it in. I'm gona have to wait till friday because they're closed tomorrow for ThanksGiving. I called the 1-800 Olds number and they told me that they were supposed to replace it with a stainless steel one. They didn't do that after they had it for 4 hours. I'm not satisfied..let me know what happened in your situation..thanks.
  • jay800jay800 Member Posts: 12
    1999 100,000km(62,000 miles)
    sephroth -
    I still have the exact same problem as you, even down to the pronounced hesitation at 1500 rpms in 4th. My dealer can't find a solution, but they can sure see the errors on the read-out. I even told them about the type of work you have had done. I have replaced plugs, problem reoccurs within a day or two. Replaced wires, problem reoccurred within a day. Have never had computer indicator LED come on at all.

    Codes show misfire in Cylinder #3, replaced that plug again due to carbon tracing, problem has returned.

    The funny thing is all of the attempts seem to work for a little while then something causes carbon traces on a particular plug or wires to quickly build-up, then eventually cause the hesitation/misfire again.

    The dealer is ruling out coils/control module – they check out fine. They mentioned that my K&N air filter (oil based) may have gummed-up the sensor inside the mass airflow, but I have had that filter for a couple of years. If that was the problem then you would think that a problem like that would be there all the time – it wouldn’t temporarily disappear after the plugs/wires are changed. They did mention possible fuel injectors, but same as mass air flow sensor – problem would be there all of the time regardless of new plugs/wires.

    Any way, not sure what to do and don’t want dealer to perform unnecessary work $$. Hopefully you have had some luck since your last post.
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Member Posts: 168
    Sounds like a leaky or bad fuel injector or leaky FPR.
  • jay800jay800 Member Posts: 12
    I changed the FPR a few months ago.

    Would a leaky/bad fuel injector cause gradual degradation of the plug / wire?

    Thx.
  • jay800jay800 Member Posts: 12
    At this point it can’t hurt replacing the fuel injector(s).
    Sorry about the following questions, but I could probably pull this off with some guidance.

    Is this relatively easy, or should I leave this to the experts?
    Do you typically replace one, or all 8?
    Are there adjustments to make pre and post install?


    The AC Delco site has the following parts listed that are probably needed.

    217-450 SEAL KIT,F/INJR(O RING)

    217-308 INJECTOR KIT,SEQ M/PORT FUEL

    Thanks for any help..
  • flaauroraflaaurora Member Posts: 2
    The light came on, there is no noticeable difference in the way the car runs. When the light came on, I also got a readout that my oil and transmission life was at 0%. I just had the transmission serviced and the life was at 99% at the time.
  • ramouramou Member Posts: 84
    To flaaurora: the same exact thing hapened to mine a few month ago but I have no idea why. I actually can't believe that your Transmission oil life is reading anything but 100% like the rest of us, I've had my 95 for 5 years and never saw anything other than Transmission at 100%, and we all think that something is wrong with that reading because it never goes below the 100% reading, only the oil life changes but not the transmission. on another note, my service engine soon light have been coming on under heavy acceleration. So I had the dealer scan it during the recall repair and they said that it was the EGR valve and wanted $550 to fix it. They said that the part is $258 and the rest in labor. They already charged me $95 just to scan it. So I declined the repair at this time as I don't really notice any difference in the performance and I looked into it more. Looks like I can get the part for $158 and do it myself. It looks like 2 bolts and a plug and it looks like a 10 minute job. Has anyone replaced their EGR valve and is there any tricks to it..? also is it worth buying a cheap code reader for my car from an auto parts store or am I better off taking it to the dealer just to scan it for service engine soon light. I just don't want to pay the $95 everytime the ligh comes on.
  • gisomgisom Member Posts: 144
    You are right about the replacement of the valve. I bought one and replaced it within ten minutes. Trak auto was going out of business and I got it for $100 and I just replaced it. 2 bolts and plug in.

    Greg
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    ramy,

    Regarding code scanners: I am very pleased with the AutoXray EZLink scanner I purchased for my '97 about 1.5 years ago. List is $300; search the internet for discounts. I also bought the software and cable to allow uploading data to my PC and downloading software updates from the AutoXray website. This is a stand-alone unit. It displays trouble and pending codes, freeze-frame data (parameters current at time code was set), real-time operational data (temperatures, air-flow, throttle position, etc.), and lets you clear codes and turn off the SES light. Of course, it will come back on after awhile if the problem is still present. Other companies sell software and cable that attach to your laptop or palm; less money, but I did not want to have to lug around a laptop and I don't have a PDA.

    Now the problem for you (someone correct me if my memory is faulty here): early '95s are OBD-I with an OBD-II connector. Later '95s are OBD-II. I do not know if AutoXray can handle the OBD-I; they list some special cables on their website. If you are interested, I suggest you call technical support. I have gotten good service the few times I called.
  • march94auroramarch94aurora Member Posts: 13
    Seeing it is so easy to remove and install, might as well try cleaning it. Go here to find out how:
    http://home.achilles.net/~howardm/aurora/underhood.php

    Paul
  • aurora5000aurora5000 Member Posts: 168
    Pull the vacuum hose off the fuel pressure regulator while the engine is idling and check the vacuum nipple on the FPR for several minutes for any sign of fuel leaking out. There should be none.

    It sounds like the FPR is leaking or an injector is not sealing/dripping. If the FPR checks OK I would loosen the fuel rail so that you can lift the injectors up out of the sockets in the intake manifold and watch them while you turn on the key without cranking to energize the fuel pump/pressurize the fuel system. If an injector is leaking or dripping you should be able to see it.

    Also might change coil packs around and see if problems moves from #3 cylinder.
    Good Luck,
    Steve
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    It appears that the span is off on my gas gage. It takes at least 7-8 gal used before the needle moves off the full mark. I also notice that just under 1/2 full I get a low fuel indicator reading. This doesn't seem to be normal, is it?
    What could be causing this and how do I get to the sender? Thanks
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