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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Does your '96 have the stock 12-disc Delco changer in the trunk? If yes and everything is working properly, all you need to do is slide open the door of the changer. You will hear some movement (I think the CDs are being transferred from the changer to the magazine), then the magazine will pop out by all on its own.

    On my '97 the square button is located below the "AM FM" button and labelled "TAPE CD." I think some of them may have been labelled "AUX."

    With the magazine loaded, you should see "CDC" in the radio display; stands for "CD Changer." With a single CD loaded in the radio slot, you should see "CD" in the radio display. Both can be seen at the same time.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • tylerrtylerr Member Posts: 1
    i got the same problem, my heat won't work and it's cold out . what would be my solution?
  • doug23doug23 Member Posts: 1
    I have just discovered that my 01 Aurora has a leaky trunk. It was parked outside overnight in heavy rainstorms and the spare tire wheel well was full of water the next day! I also suspect that the rear doors allow some water in, causing the insulation under the back seat to get damp. Has anyone else dealt with these problems? Any suggestions? I have an extended warranty until March 06 and would like to get these problems solved before the warranty expires.
  • timbo5timbo5 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 97 that recently starting acting up, starts hard when cold, and then no problem, starts easy, but after it sits for a day then it's hard to start, was wondering if you ever got yours fixed and what it might have been, I changed the fpr, that didn't do it. any help?
    Tim
  • claywellclaywell Member Posts: 10
    thanks Les, i found the problem, the stereo has been replaced and they didnt put the correct unit back in (doesnt have the cd or aux button).
  • johnavjohnav Member Posts: 1
    The 1996 Owners Manual describes how to Activate the Theft Deterrent Feature of the radio.
    Activating the Theft-Deterrent Feature
    The instructions which follow explain how to enter your secret code to activate the THEFILOCK system. It is recommended that you read through all nine steps before starting the procedure.
    NOTE: If you allow more than 15 seconds to elapse between any steps, the radio automatically reverts to time and you must start the procedure over at Step 4.
    1. Write down any three or four-digit number from
    000 to 1999 and keep it in a safe place separate from the vehicle.
    2. Turn the ignition to the ACCESSORY or RUN position.
    3. Turn the radio off.
    4. Press the 1 and 4 buttons together. Hold them down until --- shows on the display. Next you will use the secret code number which you have written down.
    5. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
    6. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree with your code.
    7. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree with your code.
    8. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show REP to let you know that you need to repeat Steps 5 through 7 to confirm your secret code.
    9. Press AM-FM and this time the display will show SEC to let you know that your radio is secure. The indicator by the volume control will begin flashing when the ignition is turned off.

    Unlocking the Theft-Deterrent Feature After a Power Loss
    Enter your secret code as follows; pause no more than 15 seconds between steps:
    1. LOC appears when the ignition is on.
    2. Press MN and 000 will appear on the display.
    3. Press MN again to make the last two digits agree with your code.
    4. Press HR to make the first one or two digits agree with your code.
    5. Press AM-FM after you have confirmed that the code matches the secret code you have written down. The display will show SEC, indicating the radio is now operable and secure.
    If you enter the wrong code eight times, INOP will appear on the display. You will have to wait an hour with the ignition on before you can try again. When you try again, you will only have three chances to enter the correct code before INOP appears.
    If you lose or forget your code, contact your retailer.
  • jpecorajpecora Member Posts: 2
    Hello - Looking for a used Transmition for a 95 Aroura Or a buyer for a well maintained 95 Aroura that needs transmition work. Anyone?
  • jpecorajpecora Member Posts: 2
    Hey, my 95 had similar problems. Found out that the Plug wires were only good to about 80K mi. I saw sparking as well under the hood. How many miles on your car?
  • imaurorinimaurorin Member Posts: 3
    Hi guys im new to the club, short intro...names rob i live in FL and have a 95 aurora classic silverish bluish dark blue interior(seems to be the most popular color combo) my car wont start, turn the key but nothing happens, everything comes on but it wont turn over. i can hear the relays clicking as well but still nothing. please help MEEEEEEEEE. :cry:
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Does the security light come on? Do you have more than one key? Have you tried cleaning the resistor on the key/spraying compressed air, and maybe some contact cleaner, into the ignition?

    I assume the car has power (i.e. door lights come on when you open the door, can run the radio with the key in the accessory position). That's the first step in troubleshooting...

    --Robert
  • imaurorinimaurorin Member Posts: 3
    yes all those things work, car just wont start. i only have one key. havent tried cleaning the ignition or anything though.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    When you put the key in and turn to "on" does the "security" light come on?
    Then when you turn the key to start and nothing happens and you remove the key, does the security light stay on?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • pizza442pizza442 Member Posts: 110
    Had this problem a while ago; ended up being the ignition switch in the column. Dealer tech was able to test the switch after testing the security-key deal. He had a good used switch laying around which he hooked up while everything was apart and new for sure it was the ign. switch. Ordered the new part.
    My early trouble sign for this was a slight delay in starting when you turned the key.
    Jay
  • c1evolandc1evoland Member Posts: 1
    Hey hows it going? I have the same problems in my 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora, and ill sit in my car, dead of winter waiting 40-50 minutes for my car to start! It keeps saying security, I was just wondering if you solved the problem? Thanks for your help
  • claywellclaywell Member Posts: 10
    you can go to carpart.com and find a junkyard near you.It shows the price,mileage,etc. Maybe this could help
  • 2k1olds2k1olds Member Posts: 98
    My 97 started leaking a little oil about 2 weeks ago. Took it in for an oil change yesterday and the guy said it seems to be coming from the oil pan gasket. Is this a DIY or something I should take to a mechanic? And, any idea how much $ it could be.........
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    If it says "security" then either your key or your ignition column is bad or at least in need of a good cleaning. This basically means that the ignition can't read the value of the resistor "pellet" embedded in the key.

    Get some contact cleaner from Radio Shack and clean the key. Or, if you have a second key, try it. Also spray first some compressed air, then, if necessary, some contact cleaner, into the ignition mechanism.

    If that doesn't work, getting a replacement from somewhere (junkyard, dealer - see http://www.car-part.com for a searchable database) may be your only hope.

    --Robert
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    What works for me is clean the key contacts on the key with an eraser on a pencil. Then dip the key in alcohol and put it into the lock cylinder a couple of times, hoping the alcohol cleans off goop that might be on them where the resistor contacts touch.

    If it is broken wires in the steering column that are giving the wrong resistance reading there is the possibility of disconnecting the wires going up the column and inserting a resistor of the right size to replace the resistance the key is supposed to give. This is done to put on remote starters from what I've read. There is a website about the VATS system that has lots of info.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mboldsmbolds Member Posts: 2
    I recently purchased a 2001 4.0L Aurora. Love the car but when first starts, I hear an engine knock. Everyone I've asked says it is due to the hydraulic lifters not getting oil at beginning. Now, in cold weather, the "Low Oil Pressure" message appears for 4 seconds. Oil was recently changed (at GM Dealer) and everything appeared okay. The knock quietens but this is still a concern for me. On one of the posts, I've seen someone mention the "famous engine knock." I've never owned an Olds before, but have always been GM fan. Any thoughts here?
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    You didn't mention how many miles. That might help Aurora folks determine likelihood of a real problems.

    As for valve lifters draining down and making a tap for a half minute or so when starting, I would use a mild oil additive after a 1000 miles with this new oil change and change the oil again at less than 1500 miles. That's easier if you change the oil yourself--but it's an effective way to get any gunk/deposits that might be crudding up the lifter' parts dissolved away. A long, higher speed road trip might help too if your driving is mostly city and low speed.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • mboldsmbolds Member Posts: 2
    Hi and thanks. The 2001 Aurora has 23,400 miles. I'll try the oil additive idea too. My son suggested a GM "top engine" cleaner also.
  • claywellclaywell Member Posts: 10
    First off let me start by wishing everyone a Merry Christmas,or Happy Holidays which ever you perfer. I have a classic aurora with 180000. Thats high miles i know but the car runs great doesnt smoke,or miss. But anyways it recently got hot and blew alot of coolant out,after letting it cool down i drove to the store and got some more coolant and it got hot going home. Later that night i bought another radiator cap (the second one) and it runs normal now and doesnt get hot.The car doesnt smoke or smell like antifreeze in the exaust.But it does leak a little antifreeze,but can never see where it is coming from cause it doesnt leak on the driveway or anywhere else visiable. Is it possible i just got a bad cap the first time? or is there something a little more major involved? Any feedback would be great. I love this site so much knowledge.
  • jagir03jagir03 Member Posts: 17
    Hello, it sound like your blower motor has quit go under the dash at passenger side take the two phillips screws out to take the cover off, with engine running and heater blower control on high tap the blower housing with a wrench to make the motor brushes contact the armature. I had the exact same problem with my dad's car about two months ago and it is still working. I realize I will have to replace the blower motor when this trick doesn't work anymore. Good luck
  • jagir03jagir03 Member Posts: 17
    1996 Oldsmobile Aurora with 144000 Kms it will start good in the morning and run just fine but it is hard to start (have to try couple of times before it starts)after it sits for about half hour or so I checked the front three spark plugs they looked good and the gap was correct, just bought the car about six months ago from an auction don't have any maintenace history on the car. Thanks for any help
  • jagir03jagir03 Member Posts: 17
    Hello again everyone bought the 1996 Oldsmobile Aurora about six months. It didn't come with owner's manual and I need the instructions for how to reset the change engine oil message also if anybody knows where I can download the owner's from. Thanks
  • jerryzjerryz Member Posts: 1
    If you have a sliding sun roof a rear tube (there is 4 total- 2 front and 2 rear) that is suppose to evacuate water. They can be accessed by opening the sliding roof completely. They can clog resulting in the water overflowing into the trunk. Took my dealer 3 attempts to fix before they found a cloged tube.
  • grnhornetgrnhornet Member Posts: 21
    scroll to oil, press reset hold for 10 seconds
  • grnhornetgrnhornet Member Posts: 21
    have you had someone look at your trans. I have a 95 with 167,00 miles what will it do,or should i say what wont it do.
  • grnhornetgrnhornet Member Posts: 21
    hope you had better luck, but i dont mean to beat a dead horse but you have all the symptoms of a bad fpr.
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    More likely than not your hard starting when warm problem is a leaky/bad Fuel Pressure Regulator. Part should be around $50 and it's an easy swap - don't pay the dealer to do this...

    --Robert
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Someone already answered the reset question.

    You can download an Adobe Acrobat PDF of the Owner's Manual once you register your car at http://www.mygmlink.com

    Or, you can buy a manual from http://www.helminc.com

    Hope this helps,

    --Robert
  • HenryHenry Member Posts: 1,106
    I think the issue was the knob on the passenger side window and a stuck motor that redirected the air flow. It was awhile ago and I do not remember the fix. Although I do think I posted the fix back when it first happened. I am assuming you are talking abut a lack of heat since it is December.
    Henri
  • jagir03jagir03 Member Posts: 17
    Is the FPR on 1996 Aurora located on driver's side of the engine close to the firewall with a vacume line on top and looks like line from the bottom going into the intake manifold I took this round little gadget apart and it was full of fuel. My car is hard to start when it is warm have to try two or three times before it starts somebody said it might be the FPR auto parts stores in B.C. Canada want anywhere from $150-200 for this part. Thanks for any help in advance
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    Sounds like it's right... here's a link to a parts site that has a picture of an FPR - no, this is not the right model for your Northstar-derived engine:

    http://www.thepartsbin.com/sitemap/cadillac~fuel_pressure_regulator~parts.html

    $150-$200 sounds way steep, even in Canadian dollars. IIRC I paid $38 for mine a couple of years ago... but my local Buick dealer gives me discounts (friend of a friend)... Might try calling around to Buick and Cadillac dealers, and see what they quote you (they may want/need your VIN to cross-reference the right part number, I believe there are a couple of different FPR part numbers for different years of Classic Auroras...

    --Robert
  • ramouramou Member Posts: 84
    Well the backfiring, the hesitation, the cutting out, and the crappy acceleration was all blammed on one of the coil packs, which I had to remove each one individually and swap with the new one ($21), and of course it had to be the 4th and last one I removed/ one closest to the driver...115K miles..so far the TPS, EGR valve (cleaned out) and FPR all been changed as well as the shift selenoids that make you s*** your pants when your car's rpm goes up to 4000 RPM while you're driving...,and of course the infamous fuel rail...that's beside the master cylinder, A/C system, radiator rod out, leaky power steering hose, rear shocks, ...and probably the alternator or the starter will go out next (have you seen where those things are mounted...?yayks..)
  • xqtv442xqtv442 Member Posts: 1
    My '97 Aurora has developed an intermittent stalling problem that typically seems to occur right after the car has reached operating temperature. I'll be at a stop light and the car will just "go dead", no stumbling or hesitation. The car will fire right up - and I'm able to restart without any problem. I have 105K miles on my car and this problem doesn't seem to fit a pattern. It started this past summer - it stalled a couple of times and now with colder weather it occurs every few days. The car has been maintained by the recommended GM schedule, tune-ups, etc. My mechanic can't seem to duplicate the problem and the last time it occured I brought the car into the shop so that the engine computer codes could be checked. My mechanic stated that there were no trouble codes registered!? Any recommendation on how to resolve this problem is appreciated.
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Hi folks, I suspect my struts/bearings are shot. I just had new tires put on the front and the guy at Dunn tire said it looks as though the struts are probably in need of replacing. I'm going on my own abilities rather than what the store mgr thinks. The car rattles going over bumps and makes a shuddering noise while turning the steering wheel.
    I am going to check my records from the previous owner but I don't think they have ever been changed, and with 140,000 miles it may be time.
    What do you recommend for this 1996 Aurora in the way of struts? I am not Rockefellar so price is an object. Any help would be appreciated.

    paul
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    Watch for a good sale on Monroe struts at Sears. The best is where they don't charge for installation. Ask the salesman when the next good sale is going to start.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • metalmykemetalmyke Member Posts: 14
    Hello to all! I am in dire need of advice. I have been around this board for a long time and there are a lot of you have have seen a lot of the Aurora's "quirks". Those quirks, as you know, can be very expensive. Anyway, my problem is this: 97 autobahn, 140k, and wont hold coolant. Leaks like a seive from the back right of the engine. Seems simple, but wait...there is too much crap in the way for me to see EXACTLY where it is coming from. I have it close, though. On the back right of the motor (Looking from the front as you are looking at the motor) there is a aluminum wrapped line of some sort that comes from the right side of the engine and goes into the exhaust. This is wet with coolant. There are also heater hoses that go into the heater core that go into some solid lines which go back to heater hoses that I assume go into the water pump area (hard to see anything) that are wet neer the bottom of their run. Here is the end question...I have torn the coil packs and the cruise and other stuff off the top of the engine to see at least a little bit of the behind of the engine, therefore being unable to start it to see it leak...(if I could without getting coolant in my eyes while trying to manouver a mechanics mirror to see the leak). Does anyone have experience with this...please dont tell me my rear head gasket is leaking. Thanks.
  • ramouramou Member Posts: 84
    I'm not a mechanic, but do u think it could be an ignition problem or possibly a security problem..? have u tried cleaning the ignition, or have u tried another key..? it could also be a computer problem (hopefully not)...keep us posted if u find out..thanks
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    Sorry but our Sears no longer does auto work. What about the ease of installation??

    paul
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    I don't mess with spring compressors and fight with big bolts like that requires. I don't do alignments either.

    Do any Sears in your area do auto work? We have a few stores that are hardware stores by Sears that don't, but it's a big part of their other stores' gross profits. Do you have NTB that used to be owned by Sears?

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • dinnydinny Member Posts: 5
    Hi all,

    I have a 1999 Olds Aurora. The A/C is not working, and my garage says the problem is in the "control head". They say it's very expensive to replace! I have found a potential replacement part on e-bay, however, I'm not sure is this is right part. Would anyone know what the GM part number is for this? The part I can buy is the digital display unit with the control knobs, with a mother board in behind. Is this the right part?

    Thanks in advance!

    Sean
  • jagir03jagir03 Member Posts: 17
    1996 Aurora is still hard to start after I changed the fuel pressure regulator, after it finally starts I noticed the idle speed rpm goes up and down by itself (500-800) I also hear some noise from the trunk on the driver's side almos like a small air compressor running the noise stops after about 30 seconds and the rpm stays at 750. The car has 144,000 kms on it. Thanks to Robert and everybody for previous help.
  • dr_turbodr_turbo Member Posts: 60
    I don't like messing with springs either. I forgot about reusing the same springs and having to swith them to the new strut. What can I expect to pay for this job?

    thanks, paul
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    Do some checking parts listings and descriptions at

    Http://www.rockauto.com

    and

    http://www.gmpartsdirect.com

    I would be very careful about what is actually wrong with the unit--whether it's the "head" dash part of the programmer that's down next to the heater box. I don't know if my experience with a 98 LeSabre has the same vacuum controlled unit or if yours is an electrical unit like the 03 LeSabre which seems to be the Seville type body and unit.

    I'd do lots of checking before parting with the money...
    I bought my replacement programmer for $100 at local wrecking yard.

    You can give me an email from address in my profile if you want more info.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • fightingducksfightingducks Member Posts: 1
    My in-laws have a 95 Aurora that has run perfectly for them since 1995. They called last night I,had to go get them and have the car towed to the house.

    My Wife and daughter were also with them and the described the symptoms ,the car shuttered, everything lit up on the dashboard, engine stalled,
    they were grateful to be able to pull to the side of the freeway before it shutdown. My daughter said she noticed oil on the garage floor but, not in one spot on when the car was pulled out of the garage for the trip others, said the car sounded louder than usual when on the road and, smelled hot when they reached their destination 70 miles away. The problem happened on the return trip.
    Today you can put your key in the ignition security lights come on all, the electrical works, but the engine won't turn. Any ideas? I love this car and so does my father in law.

    Thank You
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    There is a small air compressor under the trunk. It is part of the electronic level control (ELC) that maintains constant ride height at the rear with changes in load. If it runs excessively, that probably means there is a leak in the rear shock(s) or air hoses.

    Les
  • dinnydinny Member Posts: 5
    imidazol97,

    Thanks for the info and advice. The garage is telling me a new "control head" costs $1600.00. Surely it's not just the display dash part? I can get a used one on ebay for $100.00. It must be another unit down inside the dash? I'm going to get another opinion on it from another mechanic.

    Sean
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,151
    Send me an email to my address in my profile. Click on my blue name in the title for this post and the profile for the author of the post pops up.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

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