Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

pearlie98 · April 2006

Thanks Les,

I found out that the hose to the engine was clogged and the coolant was not circulating correctly. Do you know anything about rear brakes. Took her into Tires Plus because I heard a squeaking noise on the passager side in the rear. They tell me that it is my caliper in the rear on the driver side is frozen and not working. If that is true why are my brakes on the passager squeaking. Sorry not every knowledgeable about car repairs. But when I asked that question they could not come up with a intelligent answer to convince me that the caliper is actually frozen.

Do you have any suggestions???????

blk97aurora · April 2006

pearlie98,

You could have two separate problems.

Single-piston calipers that our Auroras have are designed to slide side-to-side on their two mounting pins to accommodate brake pad wear. The calipers can become "frozen" due to lubrication failure. Sometimes that means the brake will not apply at all; other times it is applied all the time. Neither is a good situation.

On to the passenger side -- sometimes disc brakes just squeak for no apparent reason and it's not a problem. However, the squeak could be the brake pad wear indicator contacting the rotor. If this is the case, then the pad material is almost gone and the pads need to be replaced.

Hope this helps.

Les

coreyg1 · April 2006

98 Aurora,

I recently had the car in the shop for an estimate on shocks, the rear felt a little off. They had said one was leaking and they should eventually be replaced.

Also I think it is called the Ride HEight ARm?? is broken. I looked under there and see some plastic deal that is broken, I assume thats what they are talking about. Any help on this.

Also maybe related I just had new tires put on, when i went to pick it up the back end looked like it had been jacked up, then by this morning it had settled back down, kinda strange>>>

Thanks
Corey

bigeasypro · April 2006

96 Olds here.... Just replaced the 2-3 solenoids... nice 425 dollar job... computer diagnostics is saying that the gears are working fine.. Although when taking on the road obviously thats not the case its still stuck in second gear. Recommend driving on rough road to free up a possibly sticky valve... or replacement of transmission.. the pan was clean so no problems with clutching how else might get the SOB up an runnin again? THANKS! :lemon:

uknow · April 2006

I have a 95 aurora umm i think 79k on her just sitting in my yard gathering dust, i personally have about 100 hours and alot of money trying to fix, heres the problem, had a radiator leak, put some stop leak fixed it for awhile until summer came around and the heat killed it, my radiator busted so I purchased a brand new out of the box radiator, it has overheated since, bled the system numerous times, water pump, new lines sensors on the fans, new hoses, new shroud, flushed, new undercarriage to guide the air right everything and it still overheats now it only overheats idling, NOT going down the road so it seems to me like circulation but im lost, can someone help?

blk97aurora · April 2006

uknow,

What is your evidence of overheating? How high is the temp gauge?

Les

Mr_Shiftright · April 2006

You need to pressurize the cooling system with a pump and check for a bad head gasket first of all, and also test the coolant for combustion gases in the coolant. These items, with instructions, should be available at places like Autozone.

Rapid overheating at idle is not a good sign. Have you swapped out the thermostat and checked the operation of your electric cooling fan?

Anyway, start from ZERO--do the pressure test and find out for certain if you have head gasket issues or a crack in the cylinder head where all you're doing is making water for tea.

ehasley · April 2006

Hey folks, i have an interesting problem here. When i bought my '97 i noticed the Dip Stick Tube had a kink in it, making it nearly impossible to remove. Today trying to check my oil, a 1/8 inch end of the plastic piece broke off and is some where in the tube or pan. After calling around to buddies to get advice, i wedged in a piece of dowel rod to make a temporary fix before i make it to the caddy dealer. I dont want a run around from dealer, being that im 19, is this a big problem. Will the pan need to be dropped so it can be removed or will it come out in the next oil change? any help would be greatly appreciated.

side note, i need a RAD flush, are those sealant tabs needed or can i just go to a shop and let them do it. Or use the GM parts?

Thanks
Evan

outlawwolf · April 2006

I hope that someone can help with this Please. I have a 1997 Aurora with about 146000 miles on her. In the last 6 months it has developed this stalling habit. Somedays it doesn't do it, but most of the time it does. It usually takes about a half hour before it happens for the first time, then at first the car won't re-start after a few tries it fires up again and at a high rpm then goes back to normal. It might not do it again for a while or it might do it right away. Each time that it does it and I turn on the key I hear the fuel pump for a second or two, but the car usually wont start. If you turn off the key and wait a minute it usually starts, but not always, but it never stalls for the first half hour of driving, no matter how I drive. Also it seems like it doesn't stall as much when the weather is cooler out, but it has done it in the winter a few times. I'm ready to park the car on the railroad tracks and say good bye.

blk97aurora · April 2006

outlawwolf,

Sounds like you may be experiencing the classic Classic leaky fuel-pressure regulator (FPR) problem. It is a simple 10-minute job. Use only an ACDelco replacement.

Has your Classic had the fuel rail recall done? If not, have it done. There is a significant fire hazard with the original nylon fuel rail. You might be able to get a new FPR included with the recall.

If you need more info, search the archives or repost.

Hope this helps.

Les

outlawwolf · April 2006

Hi Les, thanks for the reply. I looked at that (FPR), but didn't replace it. It doesn't look like much, so whats to leak? The screen or the part where the vacuum goes?

blk97aurora · April 2006

When the FPR leaks, fuel is sucked into the intake manifold through the vacuum hose, creating a rich mixture which causes the engine to flood.

Les

world · April 2006

Is that in or out of the tranmission. My friend could fix it but wants to exactly where thanks.

uknow · April 2006

lol, well the gauge goes all the way to the red the dic reads engine hot shut down and it dies and the expansion tank boils, so somethings not right, i've replaced about 8 thermostats and put brand new fans in, Olsdmobile said theres no coolant gas in the exhaust im going to have it pressure checked later this week, because alot of people have been saying head gasket or head issues, I hope not but we'll see.

e_net_rider · April 2006

Thanks Les,
That cruise does seem an odd one. Like you, I only know of the brake switch commonality, but they actually may be separate switches. That is a 2 section switch and a 3 section switch, for controlling 5 different items. I was hunting my passkey thing the other day and while I was under the driver side, I grabbed one of the switches and it seemed a little loose in the bracket. That is I pushed in on it and it slid rather easily. On some other GM's that was part of the procedure for setting its position. After you slid it in and sometimes it took a bit of force, you pulled up on the pedal, job done. This one seems to loose and will take some more digging. Also the question of integrity of wiring comes to mind as this one had an odd connector wired with a relay that was using one of those platic press together splices and it was tied to one of those wires in the brake switch cluster. What this was for? I have no idea.
After pulling the passkey box and examining all components, I still seem to have the problem. Only happens after sitting in sun. May have to tear down again and get the hair dryer.
But on the good side, I saw a picture of how spark plug wires were supposed to be routed and played with that a little as possibly tied to mildly rough run, no load, at some rpm's. Picture wasn't clear enough to decide whether the wire clamp should just sit on stud for top cover or go under nut of stud. While working the possibility in my mind, I for unknown reason put the socket to another intake manifold bolt just to check tightness. WHOA!! Now I know this is plastic and unlikely to require much torque but these were barely finger snug. Most of the outer perimeter bolts were likewise although a couple seemed tight enough. I just checked the spec which is about 7 1/2 ft-lbs, acutally stated in in-lbs. I may have to tighten them a little more. But yesterday and this morning it appears that mild roughness is gone.Coincidence maybe, but I think not, at this point anyway.

Back on the TCC problem, I have an open on the ISS sensor, which is a pull tranny job everyone says. But there is supposed to be some backup circuity that the VSS picks up the job and handles much of the same work. At least something does part of the time in order to acheive TCC lock. But this is erratic as well and having noticed cruise causing it to kick out is certainly a symtom.
Also, with a little close inspection, it appears that the end cover may be removable without pulling tranny. I suspect that loosening/removing motor mounts will allow enough room to shift it over and pull cover. Whether the front mount will need to be removed is a maybe. But if it is doable, I might tackle with fuel prices in hope of gaining a little.

Better still a clean classic that I can afford.
More on the fuel thing. Does your guage also seem to be off? This one has been that way since wife bought it. I think I saw a TSB saying it was related to high sulfur fuel. I noticed a product on shelf when looking for injector cleaner a few weeks back. This one claimed it would protect the sending unit against such damage that causes a wrong reading. Intrigued but didn't pay close attention since that wasn't what I was looking for. If I see it again, I will check closer because if such will undo the damage, that would be great.
Later Les,
Norman

e_net_rider · April 2006

I think you are headed in the general direction of the problem. Also a note, when checking voltage with the connector disconnected, there is no load so even though you see voltage, when it is reconnected it could drop to near nothing with current drawn.
The passkey module is well hidden and I don't think you can remove it without removing the brakets. First the PCM, and then the braket to the right of it and it is on the backside of this bracket.
I think I read the pump is supposed to be running all the time from the point of key on. And this fits with re-pressurization procedure after changing the filter. Key on, pump runs for 2 seconds. Turn off for awhile and turn back on again, then check for leaks. There may be an initial priming from key on and then not run again until engine is. also there is probably some rollover switch as well. How much of this works direct or through the pcm, I don't know as don't have diagrams in front of me.
good luck.

e_net_rider · April 2006

That would have to be a seriously bad leak on the FPR, and I don't think this one quite fits the usual. He needs to check that vacuum line for fuel.
My thinking is the way he describes it it is the car has to be warmed. Which might indicate a closed loop situation and the FPR don't care about that. EGR maybe?
Gasket leak that gets worse once warmed?
Keen attention to parameters such as engine temp, rpm, does it happen when idling, etc. might be helpful. Time from start could be indicative.
But a code read sounds necessary as a start point unless I missed that.

pearlie98 · April 2006

Well Les,

I thought that I had solved the problem with the low coolant message but guess what come on today. I dont know I am ready to give her up but I love the way she looks so I guess I'm back at the mechanic again now with three issues.

The low coolant light, the calliper on the driver side and the brakes on the passager side. I will have to let you know what happens.

Thanks for all your help

pud1 · April 2006

Dear Henry,
Hi!I also have a 95 Aurora.Ihave the AC problem where the air blows cold out the passenger vent but not out the driver's vent.Did you ever find out what the problem could be? I would appreciate any info you might have.Thanks,Pud1

jxlput · April 2006

I have a problem with an intermittent problem of my car shifting hard, usually from 1st to 2nd or 2nd to 3rd. Had a transmission shop look at it and found nothing, had an electrical guy look at it and he thought it was the computer, which was changed and it did not help. Anyone else have a similar problem and a solution?

e_net_rider · April 2006

Try finding something about "garage shift". There is something about 3 adaptive areas of shifting. The garage shift is one of them. The other two as best as I can remember have to do with shifting on the move. The garage shift is how hard it engages when putting in drive. Not sure how it all works, but I believe I read something about resetting it after changing a computer and that was done with the shop scanner.

e_net_rider · April 2006

Dang typo. Should have read "not running all the time".

Henry · April 2006

I am sorry, I don't remember what the problem was.
Henry

99dodge · April 2006

where is the actuator located to operate the driver side air it is sticking or went bad and i need help finding it thanks

auroran · April 2006

I have a 95 Aurora with about 118,000 miles. Has anyone tried anything to reduce this with success? I'm just tired of putting in a full quart every 1200 to 1300 miles. It already takes seven or so when I change it.

blk97aurora · April 2006

auroran,

Oil consumption in the range you state is the nature of the beast for all Northstars (more recent years may be different). The service manual for my '97 states that oil consumption as high as 2 qts per 2000 miles is "normal." I have never figured out why it doesn't say "1 qt per 1000 miles."

The official GM stance is that cylinder honing was very aggressive to provide high power output -- may be a crock, but I think it's accurate. There is a TSB prescribing a complex and expensive remedy. My Aurora is long out of warranty, and I have been tolerating the problem for 90,000 miles. It's much less expensive to keep adding oil (even Mobil 1) than to try to fix it.

Les

outlawwolf · April 2006

Hey Les on the changing of the FPR. Dude I changed it on Monday and 1648 miles later the car still has not stalled once. Good call on that one, brother. I owe you.

blk97aurora · April 2006

outlawwolf,

Send me a check for $$$. Just kidding! I'm glad I could help.

Les

e_net_rider · April 2006

Sort of off topic and long, but I wouldn't have guessed that it leaking would have a stall except at idle, until.
Friend had 93 LaSabre that he'd poored a bunch of money in for stalling. (wife's car) Several times to local shop, new wires, plugs, coils, sensors, etc. They went to retrieve a town car and it died on the way up around Ashville, NC. Battery was dead. New battery and they made the last few miles of trip to learn alternator was also gone. I went with them to retrieve, wrong alternator in hand, but got another. I drove it back for them. My suspicions are that those clumsy idiots at the shop shorted something killing the alternator and made it that far on battery. But on the way home, going through mountains I noticed it didn't seem to have power I expected of 3.8L and when it would downshift the TCC would release with a tremendous shudder. OK once on the flat, but I decided to check that power issue. Foot to the floor it would start to accelerate and cut, repeatedly. Almost home after 500 miles, it died coming off a ramp. Cranked right up, but died several more times before getting to home. Put a few gallons in and still same. Got to house and popped hood for a look see. Found the vacuum hose to the FPR totally rotted. Splits, cracks, and in two pieces. Replaced with a piece I had laying around. Test drove told me I had more power, but it still died once during the short drive. He took it back to 'that' service shop the next morning and they told him it was because it was low on fuel. They offered him $1000 and he walked away with that. I can only guess if the computer was still totally confused with what it had been trying to do before the hose was replaced or if other problems existed. But that would be the key. Computer trying to operate outside of parameters induced by O2 sensors.

e_net_rider · April 2006

The 2K thing is to break the habit of showing up every 1K with a complaint. 2K is less habit forming. Also adds a small loophole where unless you go to shop with it at 1K rather than dump in a qt yourself or you drive it to 2K and maybe 3 qts down, well then whose fault is it?
Interested in what the TSB was about. Was it in any way related to sticking rings?

greenaurora · April 2006

Sometimes my 1996 Aurora is hard to start. It cranks a while before catching. If I let off of the key before it starts, it will make a loud POP. I have burn holes on the hood insulation from this. The recall work for the fuel lines has been performed. Any ideas?? I have read the other posts and nothing quite matches this problem, but I thought that the FPR might be the closest to fixing the problem. Thanks for any help!

blk97aurora · April 2006

greenaurora,

Definitely FPR. You missed my post about two years ago; I experienced an underhood fire (hood insulator) due to backfire (POP) caused by fuel in the intake manifold from leaking FPR. Use only ACDelco part; RockAuto shows a different part number for use with stainless-steel fuel rail vs the orignal nylon rail. Check for loose vacuum hoses, as the backfire can blow them off their connection points.

Everyone,

Is there a purpose to the hood insulator other than sound insulation? Like maybe insulating the hood from engine heat? I was thinking just yesterday of removing mine due to the fire hazard.

Les

dime2st · April 2006

need help i have a 01 aurora and my dual climate control is giving me a head ache. it is always hot on the driver side and always cold on the pass side no matter what the temp is set at. the temp control on the pass door does nothing the window switch on the pass side also will not roll up the window

blk97aurora · April 2006

Norman,

Yes, it was about sticking rings -- 3.2 hours labor plus special tools and chemicals to maybe fix.

I may have been wrong about it being a TSB, because I cannot find it. But I do have a GM TechLine (March 2002, volume 4, number 3, page 6) article with the same or similar information for 1996-99 Cadillacs. If you are interested, let me know and I can email you the .pdf file.

I am no longer able to access the GM TechLine website; looks like they may have added registration/password requirements. If anyone knows how to legally get in, let me know.

Les

oldsmoneypit · May 2006

I have a 1998 Aurora with 150K, i had to replace the starter last fall...what a job! Any how, 2 weeks ago it would not start in the morning, just made a clicking noise, kind of like a low battery/starter noise. I thought it was the battery and took it to be tested, the battery is good, the alternator puts out 14.9 volts consistantly. I hooked up a volt meter to the battery and let the car sit for 3 days, no drain occured yet the car makes this clicking noise when attempting to start without any turnover in the engine. I made 6 or so attempts to start the car and it eventually turned over and started and ran fine. Shut it off and you are back to square one. I think it is a bad starter...any ideas? It looks very difficult to get at and change so I want to be reasonably sure without a trip to a dealer. Thanks for the help!

oldsmoneypit · May 2006

Correction, I changed the alternator last fall not the starter. On a seperate issue I also have noticed that when accelerating agressively, the a/c blows warm but all other times it blows cold? I appreciate the help, however if I had known of all the problems with these cars a year ago I would not have bought this thing. I love the car when it is running but the thing seems to have more bugs than the space shuttle.....!

imidazol97 · May 2006

What changes with high motor rpms is the pressure from the water pump moving the water. That increases the flow through the heater. The air condition system has to adjust to the increased output from the heater and that doesn't happen quickly enough to prevent warmer air from coming through.

You may have a heater core that's partially clogged and when the pump increases the pressure more hot water flows through.
You may have air partially blocking water flow through the heater.
You may be losing vacuum control of the heater temp control doors--but I would think those are electric as is my 98 leSabre dual air system. Your vacuum reservoir tank or hose may have a leak. There is a one-way valve in the line to reduce loss of vacuum when throttle body opens and drops vacuum in the intake manifold.

oldsmoneypit · May 2006

Thank you for the info..I will have the cooling system flushed as a starter. Do you have any thoughts about the starting problem?

imidazol97 · May 2006

I'm not an Aurora expert, I've just had lots of GMs. It sounds like others have had certain problems with the Aurora through the years. Send me an email to my address i profile.

dime2st · May 2006

it is under the drivers feet i am having the same problem with both sides right now and i am stuck between a instrument panel module and two doors there not cheep around $150

ibtiggs · May 2006

I parked my 1995, with 207000km, last night. no problems were showing.
This morning, when I started it, the SES (Service Engine Soon) light came on, and stayed on. when I shift into reverse or drive, it HAMMERS into gear, just like I was racing the engine. I checked the trans fluid, and it is fine. I have disconnected the battery (to reset the computer and codes, I'm hoping). I REALLY want to keep the car, but with over 200000k on the clock, I'm wondering if this is the beginning of the end

Any help would be greatly appreciated! :sick:

bugs7 · May 2006

I have the same problem. I have had the transmission rebuilt but the problem remains. All electrical harnesses have been replaced also. Would also like an answer to this problem.

jerdfx · May 2006

Hi everyone, I'm in need of some opinions once again.

I just had a new delco compressor put in a few days ago along with a new serpentine belt.

My mechanic said he couldn't charge the system because he couldn't find the low pressure port. Something like that.

I see 2 ports with black caps on the top. Any normal car takes it in right at that point.

I have charged sytems before with cans from walmart.

He said the car had a G body style and I had to take it to the dealer to have it charged.

I said to him well could a valvoline or small shop charge it. He said no or he could just do it.

I was skeptic and dealer was closed at 5:00 pm. I wanted the system charged after a nearly 600.00 repair.

I called them and specifically asked if they could charge a aurora. They said yes.

I went out to valvoline sat for a hr to be told it's not working.

I could have did what they did. They hooked there machine up to the second port charged it with no luck. Looked for leaks there were none.

Gage said system was charged. Didn't blow any cold air at all.

Could the fuse just be out. Or was it being charged the wrong way.

I know there are alot of other parts to the ac system. My mechnic said condensor should be fine. He said there were no aluminum shavings in the compressor I guess.

Any help or thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Car is a 96 with 80k.

Thanks,

Jeremy

shell351 · May 2006

I have a 1997 and I've had terrible problems with all of the electrical stuff on the drivers door,ie...Window, first working intermittently but now not @ all just a little click sound. I used to be able to push it up or down when there was power to it but now nothing. The power seat dosen't work right either. No one in my town knows anything about this hightech car, can ANYONE please help!!!!!!!!!??????? This is just one of many problems with this car I need help with.

blk97aurora · May 2006

shell351,

I cannot verify this from my own experience, but I have read that the wiring from the body into the door is small, fragile, and often breaks. You might examine the wires to see if they are intact.

Les

eaglesnest51 · May 2006

Hello Les,

I think we are headed in the right direction. I spoke with a mechanic today that used to work exclusively on Aurora's. He was actually sent to school specifically for the Aurora. He told me that when a fuel pump goes bad in the '95, '96, the ground wire will almost always overheat causing the connector to loose contact intermittently. After several "come-backs" after changing a fuel pump he started always replacing the 3' wiring harness that connects the fuel pump assembly to the main wiring harness under the car in the frame and never had a "come-back" after that.

Now, the issue is today that harness has been discontinued and I cannot seem to find it anywhere Nationwide. The dealer ran a locater both locally and nationwide and no-one has one in stock.

Do you have any idea where I might find the harness or somewhere that could possibly make up a new one?

The OLDS part number for the harness is: 12099284

Thanks
Eagle

adg2 · May 2006

Help! I have a 1999 Aurora and when you turn the key to start it will not turn over. You can hear a relay click under the back seat, hear minor buzz under the hood, and the Park light on the lower right corner of the dash turns on as long as you hold the key in the start position. I successfully jumped the vehicle and took it to the former olds dealer who diagnosed a bad positive battery cable and wanted over $600 to replace. The mechanic there told me you could jump start the vehicle and it would start and run fine except the tack was jumping wildly and would also have to replace the PCM. Not having unlimited funds I picked up the vehicle to R&R the battery cable myself. Before doing so I checked the voltage at the battery (12.4 volts) and at the jump box (9.4 volts). I then cleaned the connections at the jump box and the negative cable connecting the engine to the upper shock tower and Viola! now I have 12.4 volts at the jump box leading me to believe the pos cable is fine. However it still will not turn over!
When you turn the key it still has 12 volts to the jump box. Next I tried to use jumper cables but now that doesn't work! Help!

imidazol97 · May 2006

There's a long trouble shooting set of steps to determine if it's a cable problem, positive or negative, and if it's a starter problem. The most common in GM is low battery voltage under the load of operating the solenoid and turning the starter. This causes problems with the compute control. The fact the tach jumped around indicated poor connections somewhere.

If I recall what you said, you cleaned connections at the jump start connection point. But the cable from the negative to the motor may be corroded or loose. The positive cable may also have a problem with corrosion. has the car been driven in the new liquid salt areas a lot. That is reported by some to really speed up corrosion if left on the undersides of cars.

I just replaced the starter in my 98 GM car. But the symptoms were different. You need a diagnosis. The positive cable replacement might be a good guess. But I'd rather know that the last segment of that cable is dropping voltage under load of attemption to use the starter.

blk97aurora · May 2006

Eagle,

There is a wrecked '97 Aurora on eBay that is being parted out. I was going to suggest that until I consulted my parts microfiche. It shows 12099284 for '95 and 12137786 for '96-'97. There's no way to tell from the microfiche what is different between the two part numbers. Interestingly the pump module for '95 is unique while '96 and '97 have the same part number.

If no dealers have one in stock, can one be ordered? Maybe you don't have that much time.

Try local salvage yards and/or www.car-part.com. Also www.RockAuto.com and www.GMPartsDirect.com.

I don't know of any custom harness shops. You might try speed shops and ask what they do for harnesses.

Inquire on the other Aurora board.

Use Google.

Les

dea1 · May 2006

Hello,

Change your ecm on the car. Its located under the passenger side glove box. This should fix your problem.

Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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