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Oldsmobile Aurora Maintenance & Repair

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Comments

  • graf8graf8 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Aurora, 3.5L, and randomly there will be shifting issues. In shifting into 2, 3, and 4 it will be very jerky and quick. You can tell when this will occur because the instead the quiet idol it is a whinning noise and it will continue the entire time you drive (very apparent when driving). I read somewhere the electronics in place to ensure a very smooth shift can sometimes fail leading to this problem. Simply turning the car off and back on will take care of it. Has anybody encountered this and if so do you have a recommedation as to how I can fix it other than restarting. Thanks.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Too many roads still have a harsh feel. Some of it may be the seasonal change of cool nights for pressure setting and roads starting to make their seasonal change of expansion and starting to buckle a little as it gets warmer. But also traveled a stretch of recently new blacktop last week. Those pavers must have been hired from what I call bottle carpenters. They get them a bottle of whiskey and lay it down like a level and then take drinks from it until it looks level. Road was full of dips and crowns giving a porpoiseing ride.
    I have trusted this guage for a long time, although it reads about a pound lower than some. May be time for a new one and to start adjusting pressure downward a half pound at a time. And for some reason I know I had/have a vehicle that called for 28 PSI. Can't help but wonder if a tire shop gave me that reading for this car, or maybe it is recommended for these tires on this car?
    Anyone showing 28 PSI on their decal (not Autobahn)?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Coil was responsible for #1 misfire code. Don't know why it did not also show #4. Picked up about 4 MPG on highway.
  • cfoiles74cfoiles74 Member Posts: 3
    i have a 97 olds aurora and have not been able to find a repair manual on it anywhere. it seems to be overheating and i have flushed radiator and replaced with new coolant replaced the thermostat in it but still seems to run bout 200-225 in town
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Helm is the source of the two-volume factory service manual (includes Riviera). These are sometimes available on eBay.

    I have owned my '97 Aurora since 1999. After many years of worrying that the temp guage did not stay at 195, I gave up. Most everyone reports Classics running at the same temps as yours. I added an auxilliary transaxle cooler. I replaced the thermostat. I replaced leaking radiator, finding many leaves and a plastic shopping bag between the radiator and a/c condensor; I thought that would fix the "overheating" -- wrong. If the air baffle mounted under your front bumper has been "removed" by a curb, you may experience 10 to 15 degrees higher temp. I conclude that there is something different about the design of this cooling system that is different than every other car I have owned for over 40 years.

    That said, some Classics have experienced real overheating because of blown head gaskets.

    Hope this helps.

    Les
  • cfoiles74cfoiles74 Member Posts: 3
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Today it was 70+ and I needed A/C, which reminded me of your post. This is counter-intuitive, but turning on your A/C will keep your coolant temp lower. Reason is that using the A/C turns the radiator fans on, otherwise they turn on at 227 degrees. Except that you can force the fans to turn on by disconnecting the coolant-level switch connector at the bottom of the surge tank. Side effect is that the DIC will display "LOW COOLANT" message.

    Les
  • pegasusthunderpegasusthunder Member Posts: 13
    Hey there!!
    Hi to you!! I own a 95 Aurora. I have had my share of problems, but I still love my car!! I have owned a lot worse cars than this one. But since I got my problem fixed, I haven't had any problems since. *knock on wood*
    It's nice to meet someone who loves this car. Hope to exchange information!! Good luck fellow Aurorian!! ;)
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Fans are also in two speeds and high does not come on until substantially higher as I recall. If you don't mind the fans running full time you could remove appropriate relay from box at right front and jumper so to run low or high speed.
    Down side would be shortened fan life and likely a heavy power draw at high speed. I, for the first time, cranked up the radio looking for the point where distortion would start showing up. I was at a light and notice the RPM indicator drop to zero a few times at full volume, but did not discern distortion. And last night I cranked up volume again with engine off. About the top 10% showed distortion. My guess is not enough voltage to keep from clipping and at idle it may have drawn enough power to cause voltage dips resulting in the jumping tachometer.

    Norman
  • brainsnapbrainsnap Member Posts: 1
    at this point in time, none of my power windows on my '96 aurora work.
    Replaced the driver's window switch (as suggested previously), still doesn't work.
    There's no problem with the breaker, as the sunroof still works fine. I saw a few other people on this forum with similar problems to mine, but no real solutions.

    I have reason to believe that the switch is getting power from the car because using a voltometer shows that there is power from the battery reaching the switch, and entering the switch when the buttons are pressed.

    What could my problem be? Any suggestions or tips would be greatly helpful.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Each switch is 2 pair of contacts and 1 pair changes state when moving switch. 1 pair for up and 1 pair for down. At rest all switches have ground of each pair applied.
    Pin P, black wire should be ground. Next connector it will go through pin J. Diagram then shows a grommet, which may be the rubber door sleeve or perhaps hidden behind lower left kick panel. From there is a splice that connects several circuits. I would say your problem is between that splice and master switch since you haven't mentioned problems with the many other circuits that connect at splice before going to ground.
  • ladydelight200ladydelight200 Member Posts: 8
    SO DID YOU SAY THAT YOU CHANGED WHAT ON THE OIL PUMP TO GET THE OIL PRESSURE BACK UP ...MAN THIS IS HEADACHE..ALSO DID YOU SAY TO CHANGE SENSOR THAT THE WINDOWS WILL START BACK TO WORK....HELP ME PLEASE I LOVE MY CAR
  • pharry752pharry752 Member Posts: 6
    Mine did that too. If you open the driver side door you will see a rubber boot that has a bunch of wires inside running from the main frame to the door. Mine had two wires broken inside the rubber boot. The wires are tight and as you open and close the doors they bend enough times to break. I added about 2 inches of wire to the two broken wires and now all windows work fine. I had to sacrifice the boot by cutting it out of the way. There was no easy way to get to the wires otherwise.
  • pharry752pharry752 Member Posts: 6
    push pull tug or tow, but don't drive it. Darn good way to start a fire. My fuel rail was replaced under recall about a month ago. No charge.
  • pharry752pharry752 Member Posts: 6
    My ac fan has been slowing down for some time and now won't come on at all. Everything else on the ac system is working. Has anybody got tips on removing the fan? It seems to be in the console under the dash, but I have not had a chance to start taking things apart.
  • pharry752pharry752 Member Posts: 6
    On my 96 I got a code of multiple random cylinder misfire. It turns out that there are 4 coils on the firewall under the hood. Each coil controls 2 cylinders. I checked the spark on each wire and found a bad coil. Replaced it and it runs great. This has happened with each of the other coils at random intervals, so I now have all 4 coils replaced. Maybe good idea to replace them all at once when one fails.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    lady,

    First, please stop shouting.

    Second, you did not identify your car or the posts to which you refer. One of them might be mine; I replaced the oil-pressure sender on my '97 Aurora. The sender is black and cylindrical, about the size of a roll of quarters. It is located near the oil filter and is fairly easy to access from under the car. Replacing this does not raise the oil pressure itself, just the indicated pressure. The oil pump is inside the engine; repairs to it are not for someone who has to ask.

    I do not know of any sensor that would affect operation of the windows. Maybe you are thinking of a switch or broken wires (very common window failures in Auroras).

    Les
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    If you remove the boot at each end, you can thread a new wire through it and make splices outside the boot area. Use wire of high quality, that is lots of strands and it won't break again. Sometimes the wire will break inside the insulation not making the break point evident, but the insulation will stretch when the wire won't and eventually the insulation will snap at the wire break point.
    No need to destroy the boot.
  • jerugjerug Member Posts: 5
    Does anyone know the location of the AC low pressure port for recharging on a 97? I can only locate the two on top but they're both on what appears to be the high pressure line.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    My '97 has only two ports; they are on different lines on top. They are different diameters so there should not be a connection problem.

    Why would there be two ports on the same line?

    Les
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    It might appear to be same line depending upon definition. That is multiple segments in line. Between the two charge connectors is a break in the line and the down stream side holds the orifice tube. So you have a high and low pressure point just a few inches apart with a connection between.
  • jerugjerug Member Posts: 5
    The upper line is as you describe it, with a connector in between the two ports, but the situation is that the smaller port, toward the firewall, is too small for the standard R134a recharge fitting and the one forward of the connector will only take the fitting tightly up to the start of the flare on the outside above the groove which is where the fitting is supposed to lock on. I'm stuck because the connector can't engage and lock and because I certainly don't want to mistakenly connect to the high pressure side.
  • ozz1ozz1 Member Posts: 5
    i have a 99 with the same problem, the coupler in the kit will not lock on either of the ports, one seems to be the right size, the one closer to the fire wall, but it won't lock on. also, i followed the high pressure line down to the compressor and it appears that the seal is leaking because the 134 is leaking out on the steel line and it has rusted the line and i am afraid that it will eventually rust thru the line, fyi.
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I have had difficulty getting the fittings to lock onto the ports, too. Both low and high pressure. I was able to make the connection work by putting the fitting in place on top of the port, pulling the sliding locking ring up with one hand, then squeezing hard with my other hand to seat and lock the fitting. I did not just push on the fitting because I feared damage to the line; that is why I squeezed the fitting and line together with palm of my hand against the fitting and fingers wrapped around the line.

    Les
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I think you nailed it Les. The other consideration is if you are using a service connector with the valve built in. You would definitely want the valve on the service hose closed when connecting, but I have misgivings about these low/no loss of Freon devices. Very small quantities of air trapped inside couplers as they are connected will degrade your cooling. I always attempt to flush connection, and of course service hoses, with a small amount of Freon bleeding as I make the connection.
    The only thing unusual about my service ports is the cap. At least one of the lines uses a plastic cap that is non-standard and you have to get that small plastic thing from the dealer, $7, so don't lose it.
  • telecastofftelecastoff Member Posts: 1
    So, which one is it? The samaller on (closest to the firewall or the larger one (farthest away from the firewall)? Thanks.
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    Down stream connection, should be closer to firewall if in same line.
  • gen2956gen2956 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Aurora, with 150000 miles, having trouble with the transmission. The shift out of park to drive and vice versa is quick and hard. The check engine light is on, but the car is still running pretty smoothly. When I start it, it whines for a a while, then that sound goes away. The car is on its second transmission. Any ideas on how i can fix the hard shifting
  • codered1codered1 Member Posts: 2
    My car has the same problem it slams hard into Reverse and Drive I have around 175000 miles on the car. My car still runs good but My service engine light also came on as well does it have to relate to this? So I will need to get the Powertrain Control Module replaced and that should solve the problem?
  • sickandtired1sickandtired1 Member Posts: 1
    Hoping someone can help with this...when I turn on the A/C the driver's side and center vents blow hot, the passenger side blows cold and appears to work correctly. Could possibly be a vent door is stuck in the open position bringing in hot air from engine? I did notice this winter that the driver's side was much warmer then passenger side with the heat on. Anyone have a suggestion?

    My last car had a problem where a flapper door under the driver's dash would close and I had to manually open it in order to get heat...maybe something similar -- only in reverse?
  • macfle01macfle01 Member Posts: 7
    HEY ITS BEEN A WHILE BUT I HAVE A OLDSMOBILE AURORA ITS A 95 I HAD IT RUNNING REAL GOOD FOR ABOUT A YEAR AND A HALF BUT DURING THAT YEAR I PUT ALOT OF MONEY IN IT TO KEEP IT RUNNING AND IT RAN REALLY GOOD FOR AWHILE BUT THEN I HAD A REALLY BAD INCIDENT ONE DAY AFTER DETAILING IT ALL THE SUDDEN IT CAUGHT FIRE NOW I NEED A ENGINE THE ORIGINAL IS COMPLETLY DESTROYED MY QUESTION IS HOW MUCH SHOULD I PAY FOR A REBUILT ENGINE AND WHAT ELSE MIGHT HAVE BEEN DAMAGED IN THE FIRE AND WHAT WOULD U GUYS SUGGEST I HAVE ALL LOOKED AT I REALLY NEED SOME GOOD HELP SO PLEASE HELP I NEED MY CAR...
  • 99dodge99dodge Member Posts: 15
    Mine does the same thing you will have to replace the a/c heat programmer, located behind the passenger kick panel they go for 300-500 dollars thats why I havent replaced mine yet good luck
  • 99dodge99dodge Member Posts: 15
    If the fire had destroyed wiring and electrical components I would try to find a donor car in a scrap yard you may have more damage than you want ot deal with.There is a dealer in St Pete florida that has one for 195.00 with 150,000 miles.I dont know if it runs but its still not worth it to me. Good Luck
  • ladydelight200ladydelight200 Member Posts: 8
    sorry didn't mean to shout ....thanks for the help....
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    The door you refer to is the blend door I think. It controls the amount of heated air mixed with conditioned air to obtain correct temperature. You might try forcing a reprogram of positions by disconnecting battery or some alternative.
    and it would seem there has to be two doors, one for passenger side. After locating the doors, see if the connectors are the same and try moving the driver side connector to the passenger blend door.
  • 99dodge99dodge Member Posts: 15
    My 99 does the same thing it ended up being the a/c heat programmer.It costs 300-500 dollars to replace.it operates the 5 blend doors in the a/c system and it also controls the center console digital readout.I found out by mistake when I tried one from a buick.It worked on the driver side for air but the buick didnt have digital center console.The part is becomming obsolete that is why it costs so much.good luck
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I went back after reading someone's response to your problem. I suspect you have an electric motor controlled AC system. LeSabres used electrical motors starting in 2000 with the adoption of the Aurora/Seville body; earlier were vacuum. I suspect the Park Ave changed in late 90s with a restyle.

    There's another group of Bonneville afficianados who have similar problems with hot drivers and cold passengers. I believe some found their freon charge was low; but there is a motor actuator for one of the vanes that directs airflow that some have found bad and replaced, themselves.

    Forum rules are that I can't post the group URL here but email me at my carspace or my email is in the profile you get clicking on my name at the top of the post. I can lead you to their discussions, which are searchable, for help.

    My concern is you may not need the programmer (which many people get from wrecking yards) and may only need an actuator or freon charge.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • gsappgsapp Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 Aurora V6 with 79K miles. New battery installed but the motor will not turn over at all. Dash lights up, radio, windows work OK etc.
    Put a code scanner on it but it gets a connection error. I suspect a bad ECM or PCM? Any inputs are greatly appreciated. Also where is the ECM located?
  • e_net_ridere_net_rider Member Posts: 1,380
    I need the body piece that is often mentioned when car runs hot. Claims are that car runs warmer with it missing and mine is. Part number and where I can get it for a classic is what I need. Thanks.
    Norman
  • antiquediyerantiquediyer Member Posts: 2
    Thanks to all of you for the great advice and tips on the repairs for the Aurora. My '98 Aurora is starting to be very expensive to own without a repair warranty (8 new injectors, Disk brake rotor problems, new radiator, new hose for window washer fluid pump and now A/C problems).

    My mechanic said that I have a minute leak in the A/C evaporator on my '98 Olds Aurora. Replacement of the evaporator and dryer will cost $700 with 8 hours labor for removal and replacement of the dash.

    The interior of the car and the dash are in mint condition and I am concerned that the mechanic (non-GM) will break or damage the dash and or parts inside of the dash. How do I remove/replace the dash to save time on the labor costs for this repair?
  • ozz1ozz1 Member Posts: 5
    the switch that opens the trunk lid on my 99 doesn't open it anymore, i have to use the remote. anyone else have this problem?
  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    Did you check the on/off switch in the glove compartment? Mine sometimes gets moved to the off position; I have never been able to figure out why.

    Les
  • grruagrrua Member Posts: 2
    The water pump belt shredded on my 1997 Aurora. It didn't look too difficult so I decided to attempt to replace it myself. I'm a little timid as I've never changed this belt before. I have the belt cover off. It appears I have to get the belt in behind the tensioner bracket in order to get it over the cam pulley and the water pump. However, there is very little room behind the bracket....about 1/3 the thickness of the belt. Do I need to force the belt through that space (fear damage to belt) or do I need to remove the tensioner bracket from the water pump housing to make room? Thanks.
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,132
    I've had GMs for years. On all my 3800s adn 3300 engines the tensioner had a bolt on it and you used a socket and long handle to pull on that bolt to move the tensioner in to shorten the distance a belt has to travel and then holding it there you put the belt over the tensioner pulley and let the pulley's spring move it back against the belt.

    Yours is probably close to the water pump because the belt is not there.

    The bolts in the end of the tensioners are reverse threaded on the ones I've dealt with so that pulling on the handle does not unscrew the bolt.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • blk97aurorablk97aurora Member Posts: 573
    I was faced with the same dilemma several years ago with my '97. Do not force the belt. Loosen (or remove, I do not remember which) the two cap screws that attach the bracket to make room for the belt. I was concerned that coolant might leak, but that did not happen. Good luck!

    Les
  • grruagrrua Member Posts: 2
    Thanks, Les. I went back to the project the next morning and discovered how easy it was to remove the tensioner bracket....just 2 screws. I had full sunlight the second time and that helped a lot. The replacement was really very easy.
  • solidmentalsolidmental Member Posts: 1
    The battery is located under the rear seat. Strange place to put it, but thats where it is...
    Usually the problem when the cars stalls when idle, the is a small rubber vacuum elbow toward the windshield that gets weak and pinches until it can't breathe. It gets soft in a spot from heat and age. It's a simple fix, just drive up to any cadillac dealership, the elbow pops right off so it will be easy to show them what you need.... Hopefully this helps...

    Solid Mental
  • anita3anita3 Member Posts: 19
    hi gang... 97 Aurora just replaced the crank shaft position sensors, but the car still wants to stall when idling and warmed, but when it gets ready to stall while idling, and try to give it gas it bogs down and dies out. Also while driving, at stopping the car will stall out... Any suggestions to what could be causing this problem ?

    thanks :)
  • pscheidpscheid Member Posts: 190
    Yup. Valet security switch in glove box. Usual family suspects but no one is fessing up.
  • dimdwrpdngolddimdwrpdngold Member Posts: 1
    I have an '01 4.0 that seems to have a mind of it's own. Transmission needs to be replaced ($3300), lights on steering wheel, shifter, & part of the MPH guage needs to be replaced ($600), the headliner is coming off the sunroof part (est $500). The car is not worth value wise what needs to be repaired. The 'low oil' & 'low tire pressure' keeps coming up on the screen. Nothing is wrong with them; just had oil changed & new tires. As soon as it passes inspecition, the check engine lights comes on & give yet another problem with the car. the right passenger side window decided not to go up the other day. My son & I just laughed..I mean, what else could we do?! It finally went up. The transmission slams into Reverse sometimes. I let the car warm up first before putting it into gear. Seems to help some. Was doing that after replaceing the torque & pwr steering pump & scensors replaced back in Nov05. Owe too much to trade it in & costs too much to fix it. This car is nothing but DRAMA!!! What Oompa-loompa group of engineers put this car together?! It's like buying a beautiful house, moving in & the whole house crashing down on you as soon as you walk in the door. I'm financially sick over this car. :sick:
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